Plain design is basic design. There are many derivatives of plain design.Like Rib:A weave in which either owing to the interlacing or to the yarns used, warp or weft is the stronger or remains comparatively straight, while the other material does all the bending.

1. Fabric Structure and Design Azmir Latif, MSc in Textile Engineering
25
Fig.3.1 Warp Rib Weaves
Plain
Weave Derivatives
RIBS
A weave in which either owing to the interlacing or to the yarns used, warp or weft is the stronger or
remains comparatively straight, while the other material does all the bending.
1 Warp Rib Weaves
Warp rib weaves are made by running two or more picks together, a shown in Figure3.1 This
produces pronounced weft-way ribs, the surface of which consists of warp threads. The rib effect is
emphasized by the use of a greater number of ends than picks and the insertion of coarser weft yarns.
Consequently, the picks tend to lie rather straight with the ends bending round them, thus producing a warp
rib structure in which the warp is mainly visible.
The advantage of introducing two free weft yarns
instead of one coarse yarn is that a broad rib is
achieved without greatly increasing the thickness
or weight of the cloth.
Since some confusion can arise in the
terminology used, it is worthwhile drawing
attention particularly to the fact that 'warp rib'
weaves produce ribs running weft-way.
 WARP RIB.
Rib effects result from extending the plain
weave vertically. The weft is thicker causing the warp
to bend and form a warp surface rib running from
selvedge to selvedge.
 Warp ribs are woven with a high warp sett, in which the ends cover the weft almost entirely.
 The ribs can be emphasized even more strongly by use of alternate slack and tight ends and thick
and fine picks.
2 Weft Rib Weaves
Weft rib weaves are the opposite to warp rib weaves, as shown in Figure 3.2. The weft is prominent on both
sides of the cloths, which has warp-way ribs or cords running lengthwise. Such weaves are not commonly
used in fabrics for clothing because it is uneconomic in weaving to insert the large number of picks which
AZMIR

2. Fabric Structure and Design Azmir Latif, MSc in Textile Engineering
26
Fig.3.2 Weft Rib Weaves
are required.
It may be noted that in Oxford shirting the two ends weave as one (and help to increase the tearing
strength of the fabric), but the other details of fabric construction, such as threads per centimeter and yarn
count, are not designed to produce or emphasize a rib effect. This type of fabric is sometimes referred to as
a double-end plain.
 WEFT RIB.
Rib effects result from extending the plain weave horizontally. The warp is thicker forming a weft
surface rib running lengthways up the piece.
 Weft ribs are woven with a high number of picks and a low number of ends.
3 Haircord
Haircord is often used for
cotton dress fabric, especially in
children's wear. The weave is
characterized by the use of a
plain weave in which pairs
offends weave as one and
alternate with single ends, as
shown in Figure 3.5.The cloth
has a fine warp-way rib caused
by the pairs of ends.
4 Hopsack, mat or Basket
Weaves
 HOPSACK WEAVES
Hopsack weaves (synonym 'matt') are produced as 2/2 or 3/3 hopsack, for example. See Figures 3.3. It
will be seen that two or more ends and two or more picks weave as one, giving a fabric with a smooth
surface but with a greatly enlarged coarse plain-weave structure. Fabrics bearing the name of this weave are
commonly made from worsted yarns. If two fabrics of otherwise similar construction are woven as a plain
and a 2/2 hopsack, it will be found that because of its fewer intersections the hopsack weave will tend to be
less stiff. In addition, when a 2/2 hopsack fabric is torn, the threads will break in pairs and the cloth will,
therefore, have a greater resistance to tearing than a comparable plain cloth, in which the threads break one
at a time.
The ordinary “HOPSACK” weaves are enlargements of plain weave with two or more threads and
picks interlacing alike.
On account of the loose method in which the threads interlace, large designs are only employed in
fine fabrics.
 It is possible to obtain well interlaced effects in coarser fabrics by combining hopsacks with
warp and weft ribs.

3. Fabric Structure and Design Azmir Latif, MSc in Textile Engineering
27
Fig.3.3 Hopsack Weaves
 The ends which work together tend to twist or roll round each other as the cloth in woven. The
twisting of the ends can be prevented by tending them in such a manner that those which work
alike are separated by the wires of the reed.
 BASKET WEAVES
Under this head are
included the weaves as shown in Figure 3.4 in which perpendicular and horizontal breaks or recesses occur
at intervals where adjacent warp and weft threads are stitched in opposite order.
Fig. 3.4 Basket Weaves Fig. 3.5 Haircord and Twilled Hopsack