Fabric is a textile structure manufactured from fiber, yarn, felt, by interlacing, interloping or felting. Special fabrics are defined for those textile products which are used for non-clothing application.The fashion aspects of textile are ignored here. The performance properties are the main consideration.
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Special Fabrics
1. Advanced Fabric Manufacturing Azmir Latif M.Sc. in Textile Engineering.
MD.AZMERI LATIF BEG
Special Fabric
M.Sc. in Textile Engineering
Fabric: Fabric is a textile structure manufactured from fiber, yarn, felt, by interlacing,
interloping or felting.
Fabric Process
Woven weaving
Knit/Knitted Knitting
Non-woven Felting
For woven fabric must have:
1. Design
2. 90* angle
3. 2 set yarn.
Weaving: The process of manufacturing fabric
(1) By using two sets of yarn namely warp & weft.
(2) Interlacing at right angle (90*)
(3) According to a design.
Knitted: The process of manufacturing fabric
(1) By interloping of needle loops.
(2) Produced by one set of yarn
(3) Horizontally or Vertically.
Felting: The process of manufacturing fabric from sheets of fabrics or felt held together
by stitching, needle punching or adhesives.
2. Advanced Fabric Manufacturing Azmir Latif M.Sc. in Textile Engineering.
Classification:
01. On the basis of raw materials
# Cotton fabrics
# Jute “
# Wool “
# Silk “
# Linen “
# Synthetic “
# Blended “ etc
TC- Terilene Cotton.
PC- Polyester Cotton.
CVC- Cheaf Value of Cotton.
CVC
02. On the
basis of weave
# Plain fabric
- Rib fabric,
- Matt.
# Twill fabric
- Zig-zag,
- Herringbone,
- Diamond,
- Diaper etc.
# Satin / Sateen Fabrics
- Regular sateen
Cotton : Other
50 : 50
60 : 40
70 : 30
3. Advanced Fabric Manufacturing Azmir Latif M.Sc. in Textile Engineering.
- Irregular sateen
# Fancy fabric.
03. On the basis of Structure
- Single Cloth (Single Layer: Garment manufacturing)
- Double Cloth (Two layer)
- Multiply Cloth (More than 2)
- Extra Warp (Warp = 1+1 ; Weft = 1)
- Extra Weft (Warp = 1 ; Weft = 1+1)
- Extra Warp & Weft (Weft = 1+1 ; Warp = 1+1)
- Pile fabric (if loop is seen Ω)
Lopper. Pile 2
- Uncut pile Ω
- Cut pile Ω
04. On the basis of Processing.
- Solid dyed (Printed) fabric
( The color of total length and width is same)
- Yarn dyed fabric
** Stripe
** Check
** Cross-over.
For solid dyed fabric
yarn
Fabric (greige)
Dyeing/Printing & Finishing
Garment
For solid dyed fabric
Yarn
4. Advanced Fabric Manufacturing Azmir Latif M.Sc. in Textile Engineering.
Stripe: Weft white or any single color & Warp more colored yarn
Check: Weft colored yarn Warp colored yarn
Yarn dyeing
Fabric (Greige)
Finishing
Garment
5. Advanced Fabric Manufacturing Azmir Latif M.Sc. in Textile Engineering.
Crossover: It’s the opposite of Stripe. Weft colored yarn and Warp white or
any single color.
05. On the basis of end use:
Apparel Apparel clothing
Non – apparel Home textile
Agriculture
Civil engineering
Industrial
Medical and Hygiene
Transport textile
Ecological protection tex.
Packaging & containment
Protective and safety clothing
Sports and leisure
6. Advanced Fabric Manufacturing Azmir Latif M.Sc. in Textile Engineering.
Special fabrics are defined for those textile products which are used for non-
clothing application.
The fashion aspects of textile are ignored here. The performance properties
are the main consideration.
Some other names of special fabrics/textile products:
(6) Technical textiles: Latest name of the special fabrics
(5) Industrial textiles
(4) Performance textiles
(3) Functional textiles
(2) Engineered Textiles
(1) High-Tech Textiles
Industrial textiles: Used in U S A
To encompass all textile products other than those intended for apparel,
household and furnishing and uses.
Limitations: Medical textile, Hygiene textile, Sporting, Transportation,
Agriculture etc.
Now referring to those textile products. Used in the course of manufacturing
operation (such as filters, conveyor belts etc) or which are incorporated into
other industrial products.
Technical textile: Definition given by textile institute, UK “Textile materials
and products manufactured primarily for their technical & performance
properties rather than their aesthetic or decorative characteristic”
Limitations: Several members of textile products are combining both
performance and aesthetic properties.
“Flame retardant, furnishing leisure wear, sports wear etc.
Application areas/classification
Home textile
Clothing components
Agriculture, Aquaculture, Horticulture & forestry
Civil engineering
Industrial engineering
Medical & Hygiene
Transportation
7. Advanced Fabric Manufacturing Azmir Latif M.Sc. in Textile Engineering.
Ecological textile (used in ETP)
Packaging & containment
Protective & safety clothing
Sports & Leisure
Weaving
Knitting special fabric can be produce both three process
Felting
Warp beam WEAVER`S BEAM
Barrel
Basic functions of a loan:
forntrest
back
rest
warp take up
yarn roller
pair of
emery
roller
cloth
weaver`s beam roller
shed
8. Advanced Fabric Manufacturing Azmir Latif M.Sc. in Textile Engineering.
Fig: Simplified diagram of loom.
Shedding
Picking Primary motions of loom.
Beating-up
Take-up
Let-off Secondary motion.
Basic functions of loom:
1. dividing the warp yarn vertically in two line to form a shed to
facilitate in-sertion of weft yarn
2. insertion of weft yarn into the shed
3. beating (pushing) the newly inserted weft yarn to the fell of the cloth
with the help of need
4. winding the new pick of cloth to the cloth roller
5. Releasing the warp yarn from the weaver’s beam according to
consumption.
Tertiary motion: All other motion of a loom except primary & secondary
motion.
Warp stop
Weft stop
Temple motion etc. [Holder of 2 side of Fabric or Stretch to the width
direction]
Function or operation of weaving:
[ 01 weft preparation, 01-06 warp preparation, 07 weaving, 08-12 greige
fabric finishing]
01. Winding
02. Warping
03. Sizing
04. Drawing in
05. Denting
9. Advanced Fabric Manufacturing Azmir Latif M.Sc. in Textile Engineering.
06. Knotting / Tyeing-in
07. Weaving ; [Main transformation is occurred here (Yarn to Fabric) ]
08. Greige fabric inspection.
09. Mending (remove)
10. Folding
11. Packing
12. Transfer to next
process.
Rectifiable: Remove problem by something like mending.
By this process non-acceptable fabrics can be accept.
Inspection
Acceptable Non-acceptable
Rectifiable