Textile & dyeing

PROJECT BY
E.AZMIR LATIF BEG
B.Sc. & M.Sc. Engr.(Textile)

…..We are Textile Engineer…..
We are not receding from others. Don’t feel you are a folly. Don’t be
flurry, brave it out quickly. Now Textile is engineering for not only
covering all engineering but also wrapping all graduates of Bangladesh.
We clothe others. We are existing at the same time with another. We may
despise textile engineering, but we cannot live without it. Textile is eternal
& everlasting engineering. We knit Sensual of others soul. When we come
to the earth as a new born baby then kept on a piece of cloth. During the
leading of our life, textile is an inevitable part. At the time of departure we
never avoid the touch of textile. It preserved our body and mind from
everything. Man can live for one or more days without food. But man
can’t live without garments for a single minute. Textile is from birth to
death to eternity . ….(AzMiR)….

For meeting the demand of 21th Century we need many qualified
Textile Engineer but in our perspective there are two types of Textile
Engineer one is more qualified another is more frantic about their
position. No Frustration because you are the right key to touch your
success. Don’t draw your life map with pen but pencil (because pencil
is erasable). Let bygones be bygones & go ahead with our future as if it
will be keep in touch. Make a whistle with vivacious life & vivid future.
There is no alternative to success. There is no alternative to hard
work. Textile Engineering become a challenging subject so make sure. I
gladly thank all who have helped me by providing inspiration, advice,
suggestion & technical support at different level.
E.AZMIR
01736569520

Open End(OE)yarn
open-end spinning is a technology for creating yarn without using a spindle. It was invented and
developed in Czechoslovakia in Cotton Researching Institute in Ústí nad Orlicí in 1963. It is also
known as break spinning or rotor spinning. The principle behind open end spinning is similar to
that of a clothes dryer spinning full of sheets. If you could open the door and pull out a sheet, it
would spin together as you pulled it out. Sliver from the card goes into the rotor, is spun into yarn
and comes out, wrapped up on a bobbin, all ready to go to the next step. There is no roving stage
or re-packaging on an auto-coner.
Introduction to Open End Spinning
1.In conventional spinning ,the fiber supply is reduced to the required mass per unit length by
drafting & then consolidated into a yarn by the application of twist.
2.There is no opportunity for the internal stresses created in the fibers during drafting to relax.
3.In open end spinning, the fiber supply is reduced, as far as possible , to individual fibers, which
are then carried forward on an air-stream as free fibers.
4. This permits internal stresses to be relaxed & gives rise to the term “free fiber spinning”.
5.These fibers are then progressively attached to the tail or “open end” of already formed rotating
yarn.
6.This enables twist to be imparted by rotation of the yarn end.
7.Thus the continuously formed yarn has only to be withdrawn & taken up on a cross-wound
package.

This system is much less labor intensive and faster than ring spinning with
rotor speeds up to 140,000rpm. The Rotor design is the key to the operation
of the open-ended spinners. Each type of fiber may require a different rotor
design for optimum product quality and processing speed.
One disadvantage of open-end spinning is that it is limited to coarser
counts, another is the structure of the yarn itself with fibers less in parallel
compared to ring spun yarns for example, consequently cloth made from
open-end yarn has a 'fuzzier' feel and poorer wear resistance.

Angular relationship of course and Wales in a
knitted structure

In other words, spirality occurs in knitted fabric because of asymmetric
loops which turns in the wales and course of a fabric into an angular
relationship other than 90 degree. This is a very common problem in
single jersey knits and it may exist in grey, washed or finished state and
has an obvious influence on both the aesthetic and functional
performance of knitwear. However, it does not appear in interlock and
rib knits because the wale on the face is counter balanced by a wale on
the back.
Course spirality is a very common inherent problem in plain knitted
fabrics. Some of the practical problems arising out of the loop spirality in
knitted garments are: displacement or shifting of seams, mismatched
patterns and sewing difficulties. These problems are often corrected by
finishing steps such as setting / treatment with resins, heat and steam, so
that wale lines are perpendicular to the course lines. Such setting is often
not stable, and after repeated washing cycles, skewing of the wales
normally re-occurs.

Causes of generation (spirality ):
The residual torque in the component yarn caused due to bending and
twisting is the most important phenomenon contributing to spirality. The
residual torque is shown by its twist liveliness. Hence the greater the
twist liveliness, the greater is the spirality. Twist liveliness of yarn is
affected by the twist factor or twist multiple. Besides the torque, spirality
is also governed by fibre parameters, cross-section, yarn formation
system, yarn geometry, knit structure and fabric finishing. Machine
parameters do contribute to spirality. For instance, with multi-feeder
circular knitting machines, course inclination will be more, thus exhibit
spirality.

First you take a body & sewing the body along the course in hemp
Let, hemp length=57cm(sewing length on hemp)
After wash,
Body 57cm on hemp is turn off after wash we get 54cm
Spirality %is i.e
57-54 /54 *100
5.26%

Body measurement for spirality
There are two spiral body after wash in
the bottom is hemp & measured with
tape.
In bottom, i.e total length of hemp &
after white line is spiral length.

The dry heat setting of Terylene filament fabrics is considered in relation to
dimensioned Stability, wet creasing, stiffness and recovery from dry creasing,
and dyeing properties. The effects of aqueous heat are also discussed. Setting
machines are described, and the setting conditions for Terylene fabrics
outlined.
Before dyeing & After dyeing heat setting may needed.
Before dyeing: To give dimensional Stability of fabric to improve anti pilling
& crease recovery property but show some disadvantage,

Disadvantage :Give low dye pick up
Dirt & dust deposition permanently
After dyeing: Help to improve crease in the fabric.
To set final dimension.
For heat setting required temp-180-200°C
Fabric speed-16-25m/min
It depends on the number of burner & bower of stenter m/c. Must have
calculate how many time the fabric stay in the m/c.
No of burner Fabric speed
Let, 1 burner length=3 meters, so 8 burners=24 meters
Then fabric stay 2.5*24= 60 seconds (when fabric speed is 24m/min i.e
60/24=2.5sec./meter)

HOW YOU MEASURE WATER HARDNESS?
First of all, take 5ml water in a bottle than
added 5 drop of buffer solution and 1 drop of
indicator.
Then add EDTA (Ethylene di amine Tetra Acetic
Acid) by injection. Injection is pointed 0.01 to 1.
Finally calculate by giving result how many
EDTA are needed to change the color.
5 ml water+5 drop of buffer
solution+1 drop indicator

Water Hardness=Water
volume*used EDTA
=300*0.07
=21 ppm
(parts per million)
Standard
Soft water=<60ppm
Medium soft=60-120ppm
Hard Water=120-180ppm
Very hard=>180ppm
 if we use 10 ml water
then multiply 500.
If we use 5 ml water
Then multiply 300.

First draw out some yarn from the fabric as if the weight of yarns
must be more than .1 gm
Then measure the length of yarn in CM(centimeter) carefully
Finally you count the number of yarn has taken.
No of Yarn*Yarn length(cm)*constant
Yarn weight(gm)
24*22.1*0.0058891
0.104
30 Ne

The general formula of reactive dye can be written as follows:
D-X-Y
Here, D  Chromophore of Dye posts.
X  Bridge.
Y  Functional group.
D-X-Y + Fiber  D-X-Y- Fiber covalent bond.
Fixation reaction
Cell—Ch2—OH + Dye—X  Cell—CH2—O—Dye +HX Cellulose
reactive dye acid dyed fiber
X=reactive group
Cell-O- H+ NaOH=(Cell O– Na+) and starts forming covalent bonds with the reactive functional
groups of the dye Chromophore.
E.AZMIR

Method of dyeing:
In this project Exhaust dyeing method is used for dyed of cotton goods by sunfix hot brand reactive dyes.
Primary Exhaustion Phase
Exhaustion of dye from the dye bath to the cellulose during Primary Exhaustion phase is governed by the following
three physical processes and the phenomenon of substantivity
Adsorption
Diffusion,
Absorption/ Exhaustion/Migration
Secondary Exhaustion
The observations and inferences in the above deliberations related to primary exhaustion in a Reactive exhaust
dyeing process are incomplete without the final fixation. When Alkali is added, the cellulose ionizes to form Cell-
O- and H+ (Cell – O– Na+) and starts forming covalent bonds with the reactive functional groups of the dye
Chromophore. When more and more of dye anions are covalently bond, the distribution coefficient shifts to fiber
phase effecting further exhaustion due to deficiency of dye anions in the cellulose phase and dye bath concentration
starts depleting further. The degree of alkalinity in terms of pH plays a major role in shifting the fixation of dye to its
hydrolysis reacting with water. Any exhaustion during this stage if it is hydrolyzed dye it would be far more
undesirable In a reactive dye system therefore, primary exhaustion alone does not govern the efficiency of dyeing.
The degree of secondary exhaustion also would influence the efficiency.

Reactive dye contains reactive group and this reactive group makes covalent bond with fibers and
becomes part of the fiber. By their nature, reactive dyes also react with water. Dyes which reacts with
the fiber is said to be “fixed” to the fiber. Dye which reacts with water is said to be “hydrolyzed.”
Hydrolysis reaction
H—O—H + Dye—X  Dye—OH + HX
During the secondary exhaustion when alkalie is added, there is a second reaction that
also sets in motion in parallel ( i.e. the hydrolysis of the Reactive dye with water) in
competition to the fixation of the dye that is the primary aim. The dye anion is equally
facilitated to react with OH of water to form the hydrolyzed dye in which state the
dye is as good as a direct dye with all its ‘undesirable’ characteristics.
It is the reactive group in the dye, pH and temperature that influence the hydrolysis of
dye in preference to reacting with cellulose. It becomes critical that the hydrolysis is
curbed to maximize efficiency. The relationship between temperature and reactivity is
that higher temperatures require lower alkalinity; to optimize on hydrolysis. They can
be broadly grouped under ‘High’ ‘Medium’ and ‘Low’ categories requiring 40º C.
60 º C and 80º.C respectively - levels of pH 12.5 for High (cold dyeing), 11.5 for
Medium (Warm dyeing) and 10 - 11.0 for Low (Hot Dyeing) for the reaction to
proceed more favorably towards the substrate.

The term “Disperse dyes” have been applied to the organic coloring substances
which are free from ionizing group , are of low water solubility and are suitable for
hydrophobic fibers. The dye has derived its name for its insoluble aqueous
properties and the needed to apply it from an aqueous dispersion. Of all the dyes,
they are of the smallest molecular size.
Disperse dyes have substantivity for one or more hydrophobic fibers e.g. cellulose
acetate, nylon(polyamide), polyester, acrylic, and other synthetic fibers.
The negative charge on the surface of hydrophobic fibers like polyester can not be
reduce by any means, so non-ionic dyes like disperse dyes are used which are not
influenced by that surface change.
Disperse dyes are added to water with a surface active agent to form an aqueous
dispersion. The insolubility of disperse dyes enables them to leave the dye liquor as
they are more substantive to the organic fiber than to the inorganic dye liquor. The
application of heat to the liquor increase the energy of the molecules and
accelerates the dyeing of textile fibers.

FLUORESCENT PIGMENT DYEING(NEON DYEING)
Process
Fabric load
Leveling(catalix/catanic )-6% 70˚C (2/3˚/min)x 20'
Cooling 50˚C
Wash-1 (R/T) for 5 min
Wash-2(R/T) for 5 min
At Room Temperature Color dosing (20'/30')
Runtime-1 45˚C (2˚/min)x10'

Sample check
Shade match
Cooling + Bath drain
Wash-1 (R/T) for 5 min
Formic acid- .3% (Ph-4.5) R/Tx20' same bath
Binder- 2%(Ph-4.5) R/Tx20'
Acid +softener-1% (Ph-5) 40˚C x15'
AZMIR
Preferable Fluorescent Color
Pink
Rose
Lemon
China lemon
Violet(purple)

100% Cotton Dyeing Procedure SOLID COLOR
PROCESS
LOAD FABRICS
95X60 SCOURING (DETERGENT-.5%+ANTICREASING-.5%+STABLIZER-.6%+SEQUESTERING-
.6%+NAOH-2.5%+H2O2-2.5%)
60X20 NEUTRALIZATION (A.ACID -.8%)
PEROXIDE KILLER -.6%
55X60 ENZYME- .5%
TEMPERATURE RAISE 70 C FOR DESTROYING ENZYME
40’C SEQUESTERING-.5%+ ANTICREASING-.5%+A.ACID-.6%+LEVELING-1.5%+SALT
COLOR DOSING FOR 30 MIN
RUN TIME 20 MIN ,TEMP 50-60
ADD SODA(NAOH) PROGRASIVE DOSING FOR 30 MIN
65X45-60 (DEPEND ON SHADE) COLOR STEAM
SHADE CHECK
BATH DRAIN(BD)
90X25 HOT WASH+(SOAP-.5%)
60X20 NORMAL WASH
SHADE CHECK
45X30 FIXING -1%
50X30 SOFTNER-.8%+A.ACID-.2%
SHADE CHECK
COOLING DOWN AND RINSE DRAIN

Process
Load Fabrics
95X60 SCOURING (DETERGENT-.5%+ANTICREASING-.5%+STABLIZER-
.6%+SEQUESTERING-.6%+NAOH-2.5%+H2O2-2.5%)
55X60 ENZYME- .5%
TEMPERATURE RAISE 70 c FOR DESTROYING ENZYME
60X10 LEVELING-1.5%+COLOR+SALT+SEQ-.5%+ANTRICREASING-.5%
TEMPER RAISE 80X20 FOR MIGRATION
COOLING (60 FOR 10MIN)
SODA DOSING (60 FOR 30 MIN)
COLOR STEAMING(60X40)
SHADE CHECK
BATH DRAIN(BD)
90X25 HOT WASH+(SOAP-.5%)
60X20 NORMAL WASH
Shade Check
45X30 FIXING -1%
Shade Check
Cooling Down And Rinse Drain
100% COTTON DYEING PROCEDURE SOLID COLOR TURQUOISE
MIGRATION PROCESS

Process
Load Fabrics
95X60 SCOURING ( DETERGENT-.5%+ANTICREASING-.5%+STABLIZER-
.6%+SEQUESTERING-.6%+NAOH-2.5%+H2O2-2.5%)
80X45 SYNO WHITE(OBA) 4BK -.3%
Shade Check
55X60 ENZYME- .5%
Shade Check

Process
Load Fabrics
SCOURING
DETERGENT-.5%
95X45 ANTICREASING-.8%
STABLIZER-.5%
SEQUESTERING-.6%
NAOH-3%
H2O2-7%
Shade Check
55X60 ENZYME- .5%
Shade Check
E .AZMIR

In every step water ratio must be 1:12/15
Process
Load Fabrics
80X20 Detergent-.3%
40’c Sequestering-.5%+A.Acid-.1%+Leveling-1.5%+Salt- (depend on shade %)
Color Dosing for 30 min
RUN TIME 20 MIN ,TEMP 50-60
ADD SODA(NAOH) PROGRASIVE DOSING FOR 30 MIN
65X45-60 (DEPEND ON SHADE) COLOR STEAM
SHADE CHECK
BATH DRAIN(BD)
90X25 HOT WASH+(SOAP)
60X20 NORMAL WASH
Shade Check

name of somedyeing m/c
Fongs, Thies, Dilmenler, SETEX
, Esclanos,Alkan,ATOIC,Sclavos,Atyc
Tong gene,Techninox,Canlar
AK bangla,Tung Shine, Daroitex
name of some pantone
TCX
TPX
TC
U
C
Mélange(wingsome)

Knitting Machine
Flamac(single jersey)Singapore, Mayer & CIE(single
jersey) Germany, Fukahama(S/J)Taiwan,
Pai Lung (S/J)Taiwan,Fukahara(Eng.stripe)Japan,
Jiunnlong(Rib/interlock)Taiwan, Stool(flat knit semi
jacquard)Germany, JY-LEH(flat knit)Taiwan,Shima(V-
bed)

 Oil Spot/Grease Spot
 Causes:
 Excess oil/Grease use.
 Jamming of needle & sinker.

 Patta/Barrie Mark
 Causes:
 Yarn comes from different lot.
 Faulty cam use in the machine.
 Tension variation of feeding yarn.

 Fly yarn
 Causes:
 A dusty floor environment where other short yarns are flying.

 Yarn contamination
 Causes:
 Different contamination in supplied yarn.

 Hole Mark
 Causes :
 Holes are the results of yarn breakage or yarn cracks.
 During loop formation the yarn breaks in the rejoin of the needle hook.
 Badly knot or splicing.
 Yarn feeder badly set.

 Remedies of hole mark
 Yarn strength must be sufficient to withstand the stretch as well as uniform.
 Use proper count of yarn.
Needle Mark
 Causes:
 When a needle breaks down then needle mark comes along the fabrics.
 If a needle or needle hook is slightly bends then needle mark comes on the fabrics.
 Remedies:
 Needle should be straight as well as from broken latch.
 Sinker Mark
 Causes:
 When sinker corrode due to abrasion then some times can not hold a new loop as a
result sinker mark comes.
 If sinker head bend then sinker mark comes.
 Remedies:
 Sinker should be changed.
 Star Mark
 Causes:
 Yarn tension variation during production.
 Low G.S.M fabric production
 Remedies:
 Maintain same Yarn tension during production.
 Use good conditioned needles.

 Drop Stitches
 Causes:
 Defective needle.
 If yarn is not properly fed during loop formation i.e. not properly laid on to the needle
hook.
 Take-down mechanism too loose.
 Remedies:
 Needle should be straight & well.
 Proper feeding of yarn during loop formation.
 Lycra out
 Causes:
 Breakage of lycra yarn.
 Dusted yarn
 Remedies:
 Proper lycra must be used.
 Cloth fall out
 Causes:
 It is an area consisting of drop stitches laying side by side. They can either when a
yarn is laid out or it breaks without any intermediate connection.
 Remedies:
 Make sure all the latches of needle are closed with feeding yarn
 after a drop stitch.

Price quotation
By the conversation of our honorable your management over phone, we offer our best
price for you as bellow…….
A.100% Cotton Lycra S/J & CVC double dyeing(open finish):
1.White = 95 tk/kg
2.Avg. Color = 135 tk/kg
3.Deep Color = 145 tk/kg
4.Royal/black+royal = 155 tk/kg
5.Normal Wash = 75 tk/kg
B.100% Cotton S/J Fabric:
Color Open Finish Tube Finish
1. White = 65 tk/kg 50 tk/kg
2.Avg. Color = 110 tk/kg 90 tk/kg
3.Deep Color = 115 tk/kg 100 tk/kg
4.Royal/black+royal =135 tk/kg 120 tk/kg
5.Normal Wash = 55 tk/kg 40 tk/kg

CVC Fabrics
Over head cost for Dyeing, Brushing and Finishing (Party Provide
Dyes & Chemicals) rate 67 Tk (Sixty Seven Taka) Per Kg.
100% Cotton Lycra S/J Fabrics :
Only Heat Setting Rate 15 Tk(Fifteen taka only) Per Kg.
Price quotation for raising( brush) fabrics.
By the conversation of our honorable management, we offer our best price for you
as bellow…….
CVC Fabrics :
Brush/kg = 8 tk

we submit the feature of UV protector, what we used the subjected colored
fabrics
Name : DYAPOL KUV
Origin : Germany.
Feature of DYAPOL KUV :
→ Low Foaming
→Good Stability to hard water.
Type: anionic.
Constitution: Benzyltriazole Derivatives.
Compatibility: compatible with most anionic & cationic products.
Application Procedure :
We used ‘DYAPOL KUV’ in combination with DYSTAR XF series Disperse Dyes.
DYAPOL KUV = 2-4 % O.W.F ( add to standard
polyester dye bath & dyed at 130˚C for 40 minutes. )
Benefits of DYAPOL KUV :
→ Improve Light Fastness.
→Protects against PHOTOCHEMICAL REDUCTION.
→Helps to achieve the Required UVF value for polyester Fabrics.

Some Buyer or Client
Knit + Woven
Hudson Bay Corporation Golden Penny(GP)
Norwest Next
Wal-Mart George
Zellers Springfield
Aldi JC-Penny
Mark’s Spencer Calvin Kline
OBS DKNY
Viva Cotton Lavis
Sears New Worker
Mark’s Work Wear House LIDL
Daytex Tesco
Orchestra H & M
Leo mill Fashion Jara
Hopper Corp ZXY Apparel
Li & Fung Monti Carlo
K- Mart Promtex
Bentex Tchibo

Some Buyer or Client of
Denim Fabric
 Up-to-date
 Otto
 LHF
 Exclusive
 Asia Tex
 Hema
 Williams

Woven & yarn(denim) continuous method is call cool/critical pad
batch(CPB) because of materials are passes through pad roller.
E.AZMIR

SOME TECHNICAL TERMS OF DYEING
Exhaustion: The proportion of dye or other substrate taken by a substrate(material) at
any stage of the process to the of the amount originally available.
Fixation: The proportion of dye or other substrate is fixed by a substrate(material)
after final wash.
Disruption: When dye stuff comes to the outer surface of the fabric, that is called
disruption.
Adsorption: Deposition of dyes on the surface of the fiber.
Absorption: Penetration of dyes inside the fiber.
Stripping: To remove color from substrate and make color less is called stripping
Sodium thio sulphate (hydrous)Na2S2O4 is used .generally it react with fiber &
produce two colorless amino substitute compound (R1-NH2+NH2-R2)one is remove
from fiber but another is remain so fiber have not 100% colorless.
Topping: After stripping dyeing is done i.e topping.
Addition:Without stripping extra dyes are add in dye bath to match the required
shade is called addition.(always avoid addition because it gives uneven shade)

Exhaustion(E%) & Fixation(F%)
E% Co-C1 *100
Co
2-0.2 *100
2
90%
Where,
Co- Concentration of bath(before dyeing)
C1- Concentration of bath(after dyeing)
COLOR,CMC VALUE & DYES

DYES PURITY SOLUBILITY
DYES PURITY SOLUBILITY
F% E%-(washing loss + soap)
90%-(5%+5%)
80%

DYE PICK UP TEMPERATURE OF DIFFERENT HUE
Yellow-60-65 ˚C temp increase shade will be more yellowish
Red-70 ˚C temp increase shade will be more reddish
Black- 60-65 ˚C
Blue-60-65 ˚C
Turquoise- 85 ˚C
OBA- 80 ˚C
CMC-Color Measurement Committee
CMC is not a new color space but rather a tolerance system. CMCTolerance
system is a modification of CIE LAB which provide better agreement
between visual assessment. Color is measure by spectrophotometer(data
color) by reflectance value.
Reflectance means= intensity of reflected light/intensity of incident light
For perfect black-reflectance=0
For perfect white-reflectance=1
Color Difference E=( C*2 + H*2 + L*2)1/2

WHERE, L=LIGHTNESS/VALUE(BRIGHT OR DULL)
C=CHROMA(DEEPNESS OF COLOR)
H=HUE(FIRST APPEARANCE OF COLOR)
Color difference in CIE L*,a*,b* space, the color difference between a standard and trial sample is
expressed numerically DE
DE=(DL*2 + Da*2 + Db*2)1/2
Where,DL*=Lt* - Ls*
Da*=at* - as*
Db*=bt* - bs* T-trial
S-standard
Partially (0) color difference is impossible.CMC Commercial factor =1.Acceptable limit of color
difference DE, (0-1)
-Da=more green / less red
+Da=less green / more red
-Db=more blue / less yellow
+Db=less blue / more yellow
-DL=darker
+DL=lighter
DC*=The distance between sample and L* axis(value axis)
DH*=The angle made by the chroma line and a* axis

Three dimensional color system
with Subtractive or pigment theory

FOR MEASURING CMC VALUE THERE ARE TWO
MEASURING SOFTWARE
ColorTools : Shade Measurement + Set new Standard + set new batch
Dci Match : RecipeAdjust + Data batch (self shade for using dyes )
Mainly Data color gives three types of result
-Pass {When DE =(0-.7)}
-Warm { when DE =(.71-.99)}
- Fail {when DE =( 1 above)}
Color difference also depends on light source (D65,TL84,TL87,TL83) but
its show the average value i.e CMC DE

Metamerism is a psychophysical phenomenon commonly defined incorrectly as
"two samples which match when illuminated by a particular light source and
then do not match when illuminated by a different light source." In actuality,
there are several types of metamerism, including sample, illuminant, observer,
and geometric. The first two are most commonly referred to and also most
commonly confused.
Types of Metamerism
Illuminant metamerism: Illuminant metamerism is witnessed when there are a
number of spectrally matched — exactly the same — samples, but when each
is independently yet simultaneously illuminated and viewed under lights whose
spectral power distributions differ, significant variations of the color can be
perceived. This phenomenon is rarely witnessed, unless a light box that allows
the observer to see both lights separated by a divider is used, and the two
identical samples are illuminated by the different light sources.
Observer metamerism: Every individual perceives color slightly differently,
assuming the individuals possess adequate color matching aptitude. This can
be demonstrated in many ways.

Geometric metamerism: Identical colors appear different when viewed at different
angles, distances, light positions, etc. It can be argued that one reason men and
women often perceive color differently is that the distance between a woman's eyes
is, on average, slightly less than a man's. This slightly different angle of stereoscopic
viewpoint falls under the category of geometric
metamerism.
Sample metamerism: When two color samples appear to match under a particular
light source but do not match under a different light source, this is "sample
metamerism." One can conclude that the spectral reflectance distributions of the
two samples differ slightly, and their plotted reflectance curves cross in at least two
regions. By illuminating them with lights with considerably differing spectral power
distributions, the visual differences between the two samples can be witnessed and
even exaggerated.
Graphic arts and color reproduction considerations metamerism: In the printing
industry, metamerism is the source of great frustration. It is perceived as a negative
characteristic of color; if it did not exist, many believe, color reproduction problems
would be eliminated. In actuality, however, it is this phenomenon that allows for
mass color reproduction of an artwork. Inks used to create a color reproduction can
be combined to simulate an artwork, but can only be made to accurately match the
reproduction under only one (D50 or D65) light source.

S T E N T E R M / C
OVER PICK GSM
OVER PICK GSM
IF DYED FABRIC IS DEEP THAN REGULAR SHADE (STANDARD),THEN
REDUCE OVER PICK & RAISE TEMPERATURE. FABRIC MAY LIGHT AND
REDDISH .
COMPACTOR
PRESSURE OF PADDER DEPEND ON SHADE
TEMPERATURE DEPEND ONGSM OF FABRIC
COMPACTION DEPEND ON GSM
FOR CONTROLLING SHRINKAGE IN(W) DIA WILL BE INCREASE(+)
THEN SHRINKAGE MAY CONTROL.
FOR CONTROLLING SHRINKAGE IN(L) TUMBLE THE FABRIC
145 GSM-120 C TEMP
180GSM - 140 C TEMP
COMPACTION GSM
PRESSURE SHADE LIGHT
*TUBULAR FABRIC HAS A GREATER TENDENCY TO HAIRINESS
Knit Fabric Finishing

 1) Uneven Shade:
 Causes :
 a) Improper colour, Salt & Soda dozing
 b) Improper adjustment of Roll to Roll.
 Remedies :
 a) By Striping
 b) by converting dark colour to light or other colour
 2) Running Shade:
 Causes:
 a) Improper colour, Salt & Soda dozing
 b) Improper cycle time of Nozzle to Nozzle.
 Remedies :
 a) To maintain cycle time
 b) Dozing must be slow
 3) Crease / Wrinkle Mark:
 Causes :
 a) For high GSM
 b) For fabric stretching
 c) If the fabric attach to nozzle pipe.
 Remedies :
 a) To use Anticrease
 b) Keep proper Reel space
 c) Don’t allow fabric stretch.

 4) Oil Spot:
 Causes:
 a) To use excessive oil in Knitting Section
 Remedies :
 a) To use Oil Remover

 5) Softener Spot :
 Causes:
 a) Improper softener dozing
 b) To use less water than required.
 Remedies :
 a) To mix Softener at 50°c temperature and keep it 20 min
 b) During unloading Overflow must be done so that foam
 does attach with fabric.
 6) Dyeing Hole:
 Causes:
 a) Improper scouring & bleaching
 b) Improper peroxide & caustic dozing.
 C) Due to over bleach.
 Remedies :
 a) To avoid over bleach
 b) Caustic dozing must be slow
 c) Enzyme should be done carefully.

7.Dye Spot
Causes:
-Improper dissolving of dye particle in bath.
- Improper dissolving of caustic soda particle in bath.
Remedies:
-By proper dissolving of dyes & chemicals.
-By passing the dissolved dyestuff through a fine stainless steel mesh strainer, so that
the large un dissolved particles are removed.
8. Batch to Batch variation
Causes:
-Fluxation of temperature.
-Improper dosing time of dyes & chemical.
-Dyes lot variation.
-Improper reel speed, pump speed & liquor ratio.
-If yarn lot is mixed during knitting .
Remedies:
-Use standard dyes & chemical.
-Maintain the same liquor ratio.
-Maintain same dyeing cycle in every batch.
-The pH, hardness & sodium carbonate content of supply water check daily.

H&M GROUP
H&M(BUYER)
H & M Hennes &
Mauritz AB comprises
five different
independent brands –
H&M, COS, Monki,
Weekday and Cheap
Monday. The H&M
Group has a total of
approximately 2,500
stores all over the
world.

H&M, WHICH OPENED ITS FIRST STORE IN SWEDEN IN 1947, IS NOW
REPRESENTED ON MORE THAN 40 MARKETS. IN A NUMBER OF COUNTRIES,
THE COLLECTIONS ARE ALSO AVAILABLE ONLINE.
H&M’S DESIGNERS CREATE A BROAD AND DIVERSE RANGE OF FASHION
FOR MEN, WOMEN, YOUTH AND CHILDREN. IN ADDITION TO THE CLOTHES
COSMETICS, ACCESSORIES AND HOME TEXTILE PRODUCTS ARE ALL PART
OF WHAT H&M HAS TO OFFER.
COS
MODERN, URBAN AND CHIC. COS OFFERS CUSTOMERS A COMBINATION OF
TIMELESSNESS AND DISTINCTIVE TRENDS, FOR BOTH WOMEN AND MEN.
FROM QUALITY CLOTHING FOR WORK AND PARTY-TIME TO CAREFULLY
SELECTED ACCESSORIES. ALL WITH FASHION SENSIBILITY DOWN TO THE
SMALLEST DETAIL. COS ALSO OFFERS CUTE AND COMFORTABLE FASHION
FOR CHILDREN.

Monki is synonymous with personal
creativity and expression. Here young
women can find clothes, accessories
and a novel store concept that is its
own imaginative world. The stores and
monki.com provide innovative
collections and an inspiring fashion
experience characterised by playfulness
and colourful graphic design.
Weekday
Weekday sells its own brands
MTWTFSS Weekday, Cheap
Monday, Weekday Vintage and
Weekday STOREMADE, but also
commissions design
collaborations with independent
fashion labels such as Carin
Wester, Bless and Bruno Pieters.
Weekday’s stores offer urban
fashion for men and women –
always at the best price.

CHEAP MONDAY COMBINES INFLUENCES FROM
STREET FASHION AND SUBCULTURES WITH A
CATWALK VIBE. HIP MEN AND WOMEN COME
HERE TO FIND DENIM, CLOTHING AND
ACCESSORIES AT A HIGH FASHION LEVEL AND
PRICES ACCESSIBLE TO ALL.
EACH SEASON, CHEAP MONDAY HOLDS A
CATWALK SHOW IN STOCKHOLM, SWEDEN.

ABBREVIATIONS IN TEXTILE
YOU KNOW ! BUT NOT
ALB- Azmeri Latif Beg
AATCC –American Association of textile Chemists and Colorist
ASTM – American Society for Testing and Materials
ART- Automatic Rapid Tester
AFIS-Advance Fiber Information System
AQL- Acceptable Quality Limit
ATET- Association of Textile Engineer & Technologist
AAMA-American Apparel Manufactures Association
AAFA – American Apparel and Footwear Association
AAQC- American Association of Quality Control
AOAC- Association of Official Analytical Chemists

AAAC -American Association for the Advancement of Science
ATIRA - Ahmadabad Textile Industry research Association.
AACA - American Apparel Contractors Association.
AAEI - American Association of Exporters & Importers.
ACSA - American Cotton Shippers Association.
AFTAC - American Fiber, Textile apparel Coalition.
AAC- Atomic Absorption Spectroscopy
ASHRAE- American Society of Heating , Refrigeration & Air
Conditioner Engineers
APEO- Alkylphenol Ethoxylate (harmful surfectance)
AFM -Atomic force microscopy
ACS -American Chemical Society

BS-British Standards
BAN-BarriumActivity Number
BTRA-The Bombay Textile ResearchAssociation
BGMEA-Bangladesh Garments Manufacturer and ExportAssociation
BKMEA-Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturer and ExportAssociation
BTMC-Bangladesh Textile Mills Corporation
BJMC-Bangladesh Jute Mills Corporation
BGMC-Bangladesh Garments Marketing Corporation
BJDC-Bangladesh Jute Diversification Centre
BJRI-Bangladesh Jute Research Institute
BSCIC-Bangladesh Small & Cottage IndustriesCorporation
BCIRA- British Cotton silk & Manufactured Fibers Research Association.
BWTA- BostonWoolTradeAssociation.
BISFA- InternationalBureau for the Standardization of Manmade Fibers.
BGWUC- Bangladesh GarmentsWorker Unit Council
BL-Bill of Lading
BOD-Biological Oxygen Demand
BIAS- Bale InventoryAnalysis System
B/F-Balance Forward
+b-Yellowness (of yarn)

CMC-Color Measurement Committee
CIE- Commission InternationaldeI’Eclairage
CSIRO-Commonwealth Scientific & IndustrialResearch Organization
CTI - CanadianTextiles Institute.
CCI - Cotton council International.
CYCA- CraftYarn Council ofAmerica.
CPI-Course Per inch
CTL- Consumer Testing Laboratory
C&M-Cutting & Making
CM- Cost of Manufacturing/Making
CFR- Cost and Freight
C&F- Cost and Freight/Clearing & forwarding
CIF- Cost, Insuranceand Freight
CVC-Chip Value Cotton
CV% - Co –efficient of Variation
CCC- Clean Cloth Campaign (by H & M)
CMT- Cut Make –Trim
CCMS- Computer Color Matching System

CMC- Carbo methyl Cellulose
CMS- Carbo methyl Starch
CG- Color Grade
COD-Chemical Oxygen Demand
CSP-Count Strength Product
CC- Certificate of Conformity / Certificate of Conditioning
CF- Carbon Fiber
CAP-CriticalApplication Point
CAV-CriticalApplicationValue
CPSC- Consumer ProductSafety Commission
CRE- Cost Estimation Relationships
CO- Certificate of Origin
CDS- Count Data System
CDS- Central Dosing System
CAS -ChemicalAbstracts Service
CEN -European Committee for Standardization
CENELEC -European Committee for Electrotechnical Standardization
CUAM -Cuprammonium Hydroxide
CUEN -Cupriethylene Diamine

DOD-Drop On Demand
DID-Drawing In Draft
DO-Discharge Order
D/A-Document Against Acceptance
D/P-Document Against Payment
DCP-Draft Change Pinion
DC-Draft Constant
dB-Decibel
dBA-DecibelAverage
DoE-Department of Environment
DO-Dissolved Oxygen
DP- Degree of Polymerization
DLDC- Double Lift Double Cylinder
DLSC- Double Lift Single Cylinder
DDT– Dichloro Diphenyl Trichloroethylene
DIN- Detaches Institute fir Normung Standards
DFE- Direction Frictional Effect
DMA-Dynamic mechanicalAnalysis (Stress or Strain)
DVS/SA-Dynamic Vapor SorptionAnalysis (Mass based)
DSC-Differential Scanning Calorimetry(Heat based)

EPI-Ends per Inch
ETP-Effluent Treatment Plan
EDTA- Ethylene di amineTetraAceticAcid
EPZ-Export Processing Zone
EMF-Electro Magnetic Force
EMI- Electro Magnetic Induction
ECE- Pericles Detergent
ECPE- Extended Chain Poly Ethylene
EDT- Export Date
EXP- Export Permission Form
EPB-Export Processing Bureau
ETAD - Ecological andToxicologicalAssociation of Dyestuffs Manufacturing
Industry.
EATP- EuropeanAssociation for Textile Polyolefin’s.
EL- Export License
EG- Ethylene Glycol
EDX or EDS-Energy dispersive X-ray spectroscopy
ETSI- EuropeanTelecommunications StandardsInstitute
EN -European Standard
ESOs -European Standardization Organizations

FBCCI-Federation of Bangladesh Chamber of Commerce & Industry
FOB - Free On Board
FAS - FreeAlongsideShip
FCR-Forward’sCargo Receipts
FSD-Fixed Speed Drive
FSD-Fabric Structure & Design
FTP- File Transfer Protocol (Asource of order sheet)
FC- Fixed Cost
Foil Print-Polyester + Spandex Fiber
FS - Fiber Society.
FRP-Fiber Reinforced Polymer
FTIR -FourierTransformInfrared Spectroscopy
GRP-Glass Reinforced Plastic
GPT-Gram PerTex
GPL-Gram Per Liter
GSM-Gram per Square Meter
GSP-Generalized System of Prevailed
GOTS-Global Organic Textile Standard
GATT- General Agreement forTrade &Treaty
GATT- General Agreement onTariffs and Trade

HVI- High Volume Instrument
HFT- High Volume Fiber Tester
H&M- Hennes & Mauritz
HKA - Hand KnittingAssociation.
HFAA- Hard FibersAssociation.
HL-Home Laundering
HPPE- High Performance Polyethylene
HMPE- High Modulus Polyethylene
HDPE- High Density Polyethylene
HT-High Temperature
HTHP- High Temperature High Pressure
HS- Harmonized Schedule
HPL-High-Pressure Laminates

ISO-International Organization for Standardization
ITMF-International Textile Manufacturers Federation
ITET- Institute of Textile Engineer & Technologist
ITS-Intertek Testing Services
IFAI - Industrial FabricsAssociation International.
ITT - Institute of Textile Technology.
IR-Infra Red
ICS -Integrated Composite Spinning
IEC- International Electrotechnical Commission
ICTs -information and communication technologies
IRMM -Institute for Reference Materials and Measurements
I JCP- Intensive Jute Cultivation Programme
IDL-Instrument Detection Limit
IRC-Import Registration Certificate
IMP- Import Permission form
IL- Import License
IFC- Immature Fiber Contain
IPI/Km- Imperfection Per Kilometer
IBST- Indigo Bottom Sulpher Top
ICCO- International Carpet Council Organization

JBO- Jute Batching Oil
JIN- Japan Industrial Standards
KTA - Knitted TextileAssociation.
L/C-Letter of Credit
LCP- Lifting Change Pinion
LSC-U.S Consumer Product Safety Commission’s testing laboratory
LTA- Linen TradeAssociation.
LRB- Laboratory Reagent Blank
LFB- Laboratory Fortified Blank
LPC- Laboratory Performance Check Solution
LDPE-Low Density Polyethylene
LABSA- LinearAlkyl Benzen SulponicAcid (harmful detergent)
LAS- LinearAlkyl Sulphonate

MTL-Merchandising Testing laboratory
MTS- Modern Testing Service
MMFPA- Man-made Fiber ProducersAssociation.
MEN-Most Favored Nation trade Status
MFA-Multi FiberAgreement
MV-Mile Volt
MLSS-Mixed Liquor Suspended Solid
MBR-Membrane Bio Rector
MDL- Medium Detection Limit
MVI- Medium Volume Instrument
MTFL- Mercury Tungsten Fluorescent Lamp
MPF- Mélange Positive Feeder
NRE- Neps Removal Efficiency
N.S.A- No SeamAllowance
NAHM - NationalAssociation of Hosiery Manufacturers.
NCTE - National Council for Textile Education.
NKMA- National Knitwear ManufacturersAssociations.
NEPO / NPE- Nonylphenol Ethoxylate ( harmful surfectance)

OBA-Optical BrighteningAgent
OE-Open Ends
OWF-On The Weight of Fabric
OWG- On The Weightof Goods
OMB -Office of Management and Budget
PPI-Picks Per Inch
PI- Performa Invoice
PH- Puissanced Hydrogen/Potentialof Hydrogen/Powerof Hydrogen
PPM-Picks Per Minute
PVC-Poly vinyl Chloride
PCV- Polyester Cotton Viscose
PVA-Poly vinyl Alcohol
PET-Poly Ethylene Terephthalate
PCDT- Poly 1-4 cyclohexylene dimethylene terephthalate
PPE-PersonalProtective Equipment
PP- Pre Production
PC- Polyester Cotton
PPM-Parts Per Million
PO- Purchase Order
PCA- Polyester council ofAmerica.
PCM – Phase Change Materials(It can absorb,store & release energy with responding Environ
PDMS –Polydimethyl Siloxane

QSC- Quick Style Change System
QCS- Quality Control Sample
QC- Quality Control
RGB-Red, Green, Blue=White
RYB-Red, Yellow, Blue=Black
Rd-Reflectance (whiteness / brightness of yarn)
R &D-Research & Development
RPM-Rotation/Revolution/Run/Round Per Minute
RMG-Ready Made Garments
RCC- Rain force Carbon Carbon
RF-Radio Frequency
RS-Raman Spectroscopy

SAM- StandardAllowed Minute
SEM -Scanning electron microscope
SMV- Standard Minute Value
SDC –Society of Dyes and Colorist
SFI-Short Fiber Index
SFC- Short Fiber Contain
SCN- Seed Coat Neps
SGS-Super Garments Solution
SPAI - Screen PrintingAssociation International.
SI - Shirley Institute.
SCP-Spindle Speed Change pulley

SS-Suspension Solid
SAR-Sodium Absorption Ratio
SFD-Supercritical Fluid Dyeing
SEM-Scanning Electron Microscope
SLSC- Single Lift Single Cylinder
SPM- Stitch Per Minute
SQC-Statistical Quality Control
SCI- Spinning Consistency Index
SBIT- Sulpher Bottom Indigo Top
SAXS -Small-angle X-ray scattering
SAXD- SAXS -Small-angle X-ray diffraction
SFM -Scanning force microscopy
SCF - Supercritical Fluid
SEM-DOUBLE SIDED SCANNING ELECTRON MICROSCOPY

TEXTILE-Tension Ever as like Xanthippe Till I Live in the Earth
T&C-Textile & Clothing
TC-Tetoron & Cotton
TRC-Tetoron/Polyester, Rayon & Cotton
TQL-Total Quality Limit
TQM-Total Quality Management
TAP-Total Acceptable Product
TPI-Twist Per Inch
TM-Twist Multiplier(twist factor)
TCP-Twist Change Pinion
TDS-Total Dissolve Solid
TCU-Total Color Unit
TSS-Total Suspended Solid
TPM-Twist Per Meter
T/F-Technical File
T/S-Technical Sheet
TRF-Total Radiance Factor
TIN-Tax Identification number
TMS-Transportation Management System
TGA-ThermogravimetricAnalysis (Mass based)
TMA-ThermomechanicalAnalysis (Dimension)

UCP-Uniform Customs & Practice
UQL-Upper Quartile Length
UHML-Upper Half Mean Length
UHT- Ultra Heated Treatment
UPF-Ultraviolet Protection Factor
VFM- Visible Foreign Matter
VSD-Variable Speed Drive
VC- Variable Cost
WIRA-Wool Industry ResearchAssociation
WPI-Wales Per Inch
WTP-Water Treatment Plan
WCP-Winding Length Change pinion
WRAP– Worldwide ResponsibleApparel Production
WAXS -Wide-angle X-ray scattering
WAXD -wide-angle X-ray diffraction
XPS- X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy

OTHERS
ACCA- The Association of Chartered Certified Accountants
AMOLID- Active Matrix Organic Light Emitting Diode
ATM-Automated Teller Machine
AFR-Application For Registration
AIDS- Acquired Immune Deficiency Syndrome
CAT- Certified Accounting Technician
CFL-Compact Fluorescent Light
CAD-Computer Aided Design
CSR- Corporate Social Responsibility
CAP- Corrective Action Plan
DAP-Di Methyl Phosphate
DEMU- Diesel Electric Multiple Unit (train engine)
EC-External Combustion
FIFO-First In First Out
FIA- Foundation In Accountancy
FMCG- Fast Moving Consumer Goods

GPS- Global Positioning System
GTZ- German Technical Corporation
GM- Genetically Modified
HIV-Human Immune Virus
HTML-Hypertext Make up Language
ICANN- Internet Corporation forAssigned Names & Number
ISD-International subscriber Dialing
IC-Integrated Circuit/ Internal Combustion
ILO-Inter Labor Organization
IPO-Initial Public Offering
IOM- International Organization for Migration

LCD-Liquid Cristal Display
LED-Light Emitting Diode
LIFO-Last In First Out
LDC- Least Developing Country
MNC-Multinational Corporation
MOST- Mission Objective Strategies Technique
MFB- Multi-stakeholder Forum Bangladesh
NWD-NationWide Dialing
OLED- Organic Light Emitting Diode
PPP-Public Private Partnership
SOWT- Strength OpportunityWeakness Threat
SSD-Seven Segment Display
SIM- Subscriber Identity Module
SMS-ShortMessage Service
STD-SexualTransmitted Diseases
STI -SexualTransmitted Infection
TSP-Triple Super Phosphate
TBA-To beAppointed

USB- Universal Serial Bus
UHF-Ultra High Frequency
UV-UltraViolet
UNFPA- United Nations Fund For PopulationActivities
UNESCO- United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization
UNDP- United Nations Development Program
UNITAR- United Nations Institute forTraining and Research
UNEP- United Nations Environment Program
UNHRC- United Nations Human Rights Commission
UNHSF- United Nations Habitual and Human Settlement Foundation
UNIDO- United Nations Industrial Development Organization
UNICEF- United Nations InternationalChildren’sEmergency Fund
WWW-WorldWideWeb

Computer & InformationAbbreviation
► HTTP — Hyper Text Transfer Protocol.
► HTTPS — Hyper Text Transfer Protocol Secure.
► IP— Internet Protocol.
► URL— Uniform Resource Locator.
► USB — Universal Serial Bus.
► VIRUS — Vital Information Resource Under Seized.
► 3G — 3rd Generation.
► GSM — Global System for Mobile Communication.
► CDMA— Code Divison MultipleAccess.
► UMTS — Universal Mobile Telecommunication System.
► SIM — Subscriber Identity Module.
►AVI —Audio Video Interleave
► RTS — Real Time Streaming
► SIS — Symbian OS Installer File
►AMR —Adaptive Multi-Rate Codec
► JAD — JavaApplication Descriptor
► JAR — JavaArchive

► 3GPP — 3rd Generation Partnership Project
► 3GP — 3rd Generation Project
► MP3 — MPEG player lll
► MP4 — MPEG-4 video file
►AAC —AdvancedAudio Coding
► GIF — Graphic Interchangeable Format
► JPEG — Joint Photographic Expert Group
► BMP— Bitmap
► SWF — Shock Wave Flash
► WMV — Windows Media Video
► WMA— Windows MediaAudio
► WAV — WaveformAudio
► PNG — Portable Network Graphics
► DOC — Document (Microsoft Corporation)
► PDF — Portable Document Format
► M3G — Mobile 3D Graphics
► M4A— MPEG-4Audio File
► NTH — Nokia Theme(series 40)

► THM — Themes (Sony Ericsson)
► MMF — Synthetic Music MobileApplication File
► NRT — Nokia Ringtone
► XMF — Extensible Music File
► WBMP — Wireless Bitmap Image
► DVX — DivX Video
► HTML— Hyper Text Markup Language
► WML— Wireless Markup Language
► CD — Compact Disk.
► DVD — Digital Versatile Disk.
► CRT — Cathode Ray Tube.
► DAT — DigitalAudio Tape.
► DOS — Disk Operating System.
► GUI — Graphical User Interface.
► ISP— Internet Service Provider.
► TCP — Transmission Control Protocol.
► UPS — Uninterruptible Power Supply.
► HSDPA— High Speed Downlink PacketAccess.

► EDGE — Enhanced Data Rate for GSM [Global System for Mobile
Communication]
► VHF — Very High Frequency.
► UHF — Ultra High Frequency.
► GPRS — General Packet Radio Service.
► WAP — WirelessApplication Protocol.
►ARPANET —Advanced Research ProjectAgency Network.
► IBM — International Business Machines.
► HP — Hewlett Packard.
►AM/FM —Amplitude/ Frequency Modulation.
► WLAN — Wireless LocalArea Network

Function of A Textile Engineer
T-Tension(order package/sheet)
E-Embellish by an Emasculator (develop)
X-Xerox (sample)
T-Transmitted (work distribute in all section)
I-Imported & Implement (Raw mlt in house & execution)
L-L/C some Liabilities (monitoring the quality)
E-Export (shipment)
Just Say NoTo
TEXTILE

PLEASE FORGIVE ME
For giving
some
known
information
E.AZMIR

Textile & dyeing

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