Fusing of interlinings

1. FUSING
By: Aditi Agrawal
Tannishtha Maherda
FP- Tech

2. What is Fusing?
• The means of fusing are temperature and pressure,
applied over a period of time, usually in some kind of
specialised fusing press.
• The rise in temperature at the ‘glue line’, the interface
of resin and outer fabric where the resin is active, is
caused by the electric heating elements of the press.
• This changes the state of the resin from a dry solid to a
viscous fluid.
• Only with appropriate pressure will this flow among the
fibres of both the outer fabric and the fusible base cloth.
• On cooling, the resin re-solidifies and forms a bond
between the two components of the laminate.

4. Fusible Interlining
 Interlining: A layer of fabric
inserted between the face and the
lining of a garment, drapery or
quilt.
 Fusible Interlining: A base fabric
coated on one side with a
thermoplastic adhesive resin
which can be bonded to another
fabric by the controlled application
of Heat and Pressure.

5. Fusible Interlining
Fusible Interlining is
a combination of
three factors:
• Base Material
• Thermoplastic
Resin
• Coating

6. Base Material
• It is the Substrate or bottom cloth.
• It can be produced from Natural fibres or Synthetics or
Blends of each of these fibres.
• It influences the hand, bulk, appearance, durability,
Crease Recovery, Shape Retention and Shrinkage
Control of the finished garment.
• It is mainly produced in three basic types:
1. Woven
2. Knitted
3. Non-Woven

7. Resins
• These are the materials applied to the base cloth, and when
subjected to heat and pressure they become the sole agent
between the top cloth and the interlining.
• Through the application of heat and pressure, the heated
resin penetrates into the top cloth; on cooling it solidifies
again, forming a bond between two fabrics.
Resins have to conform to the following conditions:
• Upper limit temperature: The resin should become viscous
at a temperature below that which would damage the top
cloth. This temperatures varies according to the top cloth, it
rarely exceeds 175˚C.

8. Resins
• Lower limit temperature: This is the lowest
temperature at which the resin starts to become viscous.
For most fusible fabrics, it is about 110˚C and for the
fusible used for leathers and suede materials it is
considerably lower.
• Clean ability: The adhesive properties of the resin have
to be sufficiently strong to withstand washing / dry-
cleaning throughout the normal life of the garment.
• Handle: The resin must contribute to the required handle
and not act as an unwanted stiffening agent on the final
laminate.

9. Methods of applying resins(Coating)
1. Scatter coating (particle size-
150-400 microns)
• In this ,specifically designed
scattering heads are used to
provide an even scatter under
automatic control.
• The resin is then softened in an
oven, pressed on to the base
cloth and cooled.

10. Methods of applying resins(Coating)
2. Dry dot printed coating (particle
size- 80-200 microns)
• With dry dot printed coating,the
powdered resin is filled in engraved
holes on a roller. The base cloth
passes over a heated roller and
then against the engraved roller.
• The powdered resin adheres to the
cloth in the form of dots. Oven
heating follows the printing
operation to ensure permanent
adhesion.

11. Methods of applying resins(Coating)
3. Paste coating (particle size- 0-
80 microns)
• With paste coating,Fine resin
powders are blended with water
and other agents to form a
smooth paste and are printed on
to the base cloth.
• Heat removes the water and the
dots coalesce into solid resin.
• This type of coating gives
precisely shaped dots and is
used to produce the finer dots
used in shirt collar fusible.

12. Fusing Equipment and methods
• Electric Iron:
• Hand fusing with electric an iron
relies on the operator to control
the pressure and the time.
• The temperature is rather
variable.
• With polyamide resins, bond
formation is assisted by providing
steam.
• The result is better if a damp
cloth is used, rather than a steam
is distributed more evenly.

13. Fusing Equipment and methods
• Flat bed press:
• With a modern flat bed press,
the pressure, temperature
and time can be closely
controlled.
• These devices are especially
suitable for fusing short runs
of small parts.
• A relatively high pressure is
required, which is applied
either pneumatically or
hydraulically.

14. Fusing Equipment and methods
• Conveyer fusing press:
• Temperature, pressure and time
are infinitely variable within the
working ranges.
• The enclosed construction allows
for any vapours given off by the
fusible to be exhausted safely.
• The short pressing time gives a
relatively gentle process.

15. Methods of Fusing
• The simplest and safest of all is “Single Fusing”, in which
a single piece of interlining, with raisin side laid down, is
placed over a single piece of fabric with face side laid
down. Some variations are as follows.
1. Reverse Fusing:
• In this method, the outer fabric lies on top of the fusible.
• On flat bed presses with elements only in the top layer, it
is necessary to adjust temperature settings.

16. Methods of Fusing
2. Sandwich Fusing:
• This is effectively carried out on horizontal continuous fusing press
where heat is applied from both sides, above and below.
• Two pairs of components, forming two laminates are fused
together, with the two outer fabrics on the outside of the sandwich
and the two interlinings on the inside.
3. Double Fusing:
• This is the fusing of two sorts of interlining to the outer fabric in a
single operation.
• In creation of a satisfactory one-piece collar with a definite break-
line, fusible interlinings play a very important part. Two different
constructions are in common use, both requiring two thicknesses
of interlining to be fused to the top collar.
• It is most commonly used in Shirts’ collars and Men’s jackets
front.

17. Double fusing

18. Problems associated with fusible
interlinings
• Boardiness
• Bubbling
• Color change
• Delamination
• Shrinkage
• Strike back
• Strike through

19. Brands & Manufacturers
• Some popular Brands for fusible interlinings
Brands for Fusing Machines:
Royal Gold (India) Oshima (China)
Martin (Italy) Duke ( Hongkong)
Konwa (Selangor , Malaysia) Hashima Co. Ltd.(Japan)

20. Fusing Machines seen at GTE

21. Fusing Machines seen at GTE

22. References
Reference books-
• Carr and Latham’s Technology of Clothing
Manufacture
• Clothing technology
• Apparel manufacturing

23. Thank You
By: Aditi Agrawal
Tannishtha Maherda
FP- Tech