useful to fashion&apparel making students

1. The art of garment pattern grading
By : R.S. BALA KUMAR

2. • Grading is well known as the art of
proportionally increasing or decreasing a given
size pattern part from one size to another,
retaining everything true to its original form.
•
• The grading network for a block pattern is also
the basic network for the components which
have been developed from the block pattern.

3. • There are many techniques involved in the
grading of garment pattern but they all have
one common principle- the basic grade.
• Grading system can be classified in to the
following two broad systems:
• 1. Track Shift System or Two dimensional
grading.
• 2. Draft Grade System or Three dimensional
grading.

4. Two-dimensional system:
• Two dimensional grading systems only grades a
pattern for girth and height and its application is
therefore limited to loose or semi drape
garments because it retains the stock size
suppression throughout the size range.
• This system is more apt to a very loose fitting
garment such as a shirt or blouse with a limited
range to say, 10-12-14, may be safely graded
using a two dimensional system.

5. Three dimensional system:
• This system not only increases a pattern for
size but it also increases or decreases
suppression in the following areas:
• • Bust to shoulder
• • Hip to Waist
• • Elbow to wrist

6. • Three dimensional grading is the optimum system
and should be used whenever possible,
particularly when grading close fitting or skin-
tight garments and garments that progress in size
from 10 to 22.
• The most important garment area is the bust to
shoulder suppression quantity.
• A good working knowledge of pattern cutting is
required to use a three-dimensional grading
system.

7. • Types of Garment: There are two main
categories, they are:
• • Close or skin-tight fitting garments.
• • Loose or semi drape garments.

8. • The closer the garment fit, the more important it
is to select a sophisticated garment grading
system which adjusts the garment with the
garment suppression.
• If the garment fit is loose the value of adjusting
the garment suppression decreases and a two
dimensional system becomes more advisable.

9. Number of sizes:
• This may depend a little on whether a
garment is close or loose-fitting, but it mainly
refers to a situation where the company or
firm only offers a limited number of sizes, the
complexity of the grading system, etc.

10. • Types of Fabric: For grading purpose fabrics
may be classified in to two broad types:
• • Stretch
• • Non-stretch

11. • Stretch fabrics are more for adjustable and will
fit readily to the body contours or silhouettes
and therefore, it can be employed.
• A non stretch fabric has the reverse effect and
must be kept under the control and in balance
through the size range.

12. • Grading Techniques:
• • The draft or multi size (Nested) grade.
• • The track or single size grade.

13. The Draft Grade:
• This term applies when the pattern is returned to its
original block form or when the increment is applied to
the actual pattern draft.
• This results in the entire size range being super imposed
one on top of another and can also be described by the
term 'Nested' or 'Tracked'.
• The individual pieces of pattern for each size are then
picked or traced off onto card.
• A draft grade can be either two or three dimensional.
• The three dimensional draft grade is considered to be
the ultimate method for applying grade increments.

14. The Track Grade:
• This term is used when grade increments are
applied to individual pieces of pattern by
moving the base pattern pieces along with the
predetermined tracks.
• Making the pattern section by section and
thus altering its size.
• This system is usually two dimensional but can
be adapted to a three dimensional system
with difficulty.

15. Following are the steps for manual
grading:
• 1. To prepare for grading
• 2. Grading the pattern
• 3. Check the pattern grading measurements
• 4. Completing the pattern.

16. The tools required for grading are as
under:
• 1. Parallel rules
• 2. Awl
• 3. Carpenters pencil
• 4. Proportional divider
• 5. French curve
• 6. Arm hole curve
• 7. Tailors square
• 8. Notch maker
• 9. Grade ruler
• 10. Measuring tape
• 11. Colour sketch pen or pencils

17. Size intervals:
• A sizing system is a pre-determined size
interval i.e. the major girth difference
between each size.
• The variation in the size is in the order of plus
or minus 2cm then the logical size interval
would be 4cm.
• Practically, intervals smaller than 4cm result
into more used sizes of the range.

18. • Size charts: There are two types of size charts
in normal use.
• 1. Body measurements: This type of chart
provides the human body measurements for
each size and these measurements are used
as a basis for constructing a pattern with the
requisite amounts of ease.

19. • 2. Garment measurements:-This chart gives
the details of the finished measurements,
specification for each size and is used for
pattern grading purpose. A size is a
combination of measurements and each
combination is designated by a symbol which
is a common code between the apparel
manufacturer and the consumer.

20. • The 'X ' AXIS and 'Y'AXIS: The x -axis for body
and y-axis for body and skirt grades would be
a line on, or parallel to the centre back or
centre front.
• This is always true, if straight y-axis is a line
on, or parallel to a major girth line such as the
bust, waist, or hip.

21. • The different types of grading that are still in usage are:
• manual grading,
• machine grading, and
• computerized grading are still used.
• The practice of garment grading is mainly concerned
with efficiently producing dimensionally accurate
patterns.
• In order to do this, some basic rules must be always
observed.
• There is no hard and fast rule as how to actually produce
the sets of graded patterns and the choice of working
method is also dependent on an individual's accuracy
and convenience.

22. • R.S.BALAKUMAR.
• FULL TIME FACULTY,
• SCHOOL OF FASHION DESIGN&ARTS,
• HINDUSTAN UNIVERSITY,PADUR.
• CHENNAI-603103.

23. •THANK YOU