useful to fashion technology students

1. Cutting and Sewing Quality
Scenario of Ready-made
Garments
R.S.BALAKUMAR.
FULLTIME FACULTY/SFDA.HINDUSTAN
UNIVERSITY.PADUR.CHENNAI.

2. Cutting:
• Cutting quality is a prerequisite for quality in
a finished product.
• In addition, cut work quality affects the ease
and cost with which construction is
accomplished.
• The quality of work leaving the cutting room
is determined by how true the cut fabric
parts are to the pattern; how smooth or
rough the cut surface is; material or fabric
pieces within a bundle.

4. • In addition, various factors in cutting that
can affect that can affect the subsequent
quality shoulder be checked, such as
under-or-overcut, size, placement and
sequence alignment of notches and drill
holes, ripped or pulled yarns, etc.
• Dunlap lists the following defects that may
arise in cutting.

5. Frayed edges:
 May impede cutting time by clogging the
knife action and /or mar the fabric with rips or
pulled yarns.
 The amount of fraying depends on fabric
construction and finish.
 Improper cutting tools or dull knives cause
excessive fraying in a pattern as the section
is cut.

6. • • Fuzzy, ragged, or serrated edges: The result
of poor cutting implements.
• Such edges will impede sewing and/or diminish
sewing quality.
• Such a condition is caused by faulty knife edges
such as burrs, chips, or dullness.

7. Ply-to-ply fusion:
• • More common and troublesome.
• Adjacent plies in a block are fused together, which
makes it difficult for the sewing machine operator
to pick up a single ply quality.
• Fusion occurs due to heat created by excessively
high speed of cutting or by the friction of a dull
knife.
• To prevent fusion, check knife speed, keep knives
sharp, place wax paper between fabric plies , and
lubricated cutting blade.

8. Single-edge fusion:
• • Consists of a single ply whose cut yarn
ends are fused to form a hard brittle rim on
cut edge.
• Sometimes, this desirable to prevent fraying;
however, hardness and brittleness are
undesirable if they impede sewing
manipulation or may result in seams
uncomfortable to the consumer.

9. Pattern precision:
• • Misshape or distortion of the pattern
perimeter as cut.
• Whether it is under-or overcut is due to the
poor manual control of the cutting machine
and poor lines on the marker.
• To assure precision in a pattern, check markers
before cutting, use tensionless spreading, or
allow time for the fabric to relax.
• After a cut, check the top, bottom, and middle
plies against the pattern.

10. Notches:
• • Notch size refers to the depth of a notch.
• If the depth is too great, the notch may show after a
garment is sewn.
• If the notches are too small, sewing operators may
have difficulty locating them quickly, resulting in
decreased efficiency.
• Misplacement of a notch may be due to an improper
spread marker, poor control of a cutting machine with
the cutter’s notching tool stroking diagonally instead
of vertically, incorrect marker in that the notches for
mating parts do not coincide.
• Check notch placement against mating pieces. Quality
control in stitching may be a problem if notches are
not aligned.

11. Drilling:• • The drill hole may be too large or too small in diameter.
• In addition, a drill may become too hot due to high speed or wrong
size, causing the plies to fuse together at the drill hole.
• The drill must stroke vertically to the table for uniform placement
throughout the bundle.
• Sometimes fabric properties are such that the slight movement of
yarns in a fabric would close a drill hole in such cases, it is
necessary to drill holes with a marking fluid.
• The drill used for such a purpose is hollow and carries marking fluid
(ink) that is deposited at the drill point on the fabric as that needle
is withdrawn.
• Such marks should last long enough so that further processing can
be finished without difficulty, but should be easily removable after
processing or in case of an error.

12. Sewing:
• In-process inspection in sewing involves the inspection of
work from each operator, with a quality standard
established to limit the amount of bad work permitted and
a provision for operators to re inspect and repair entire
bundles should this limit be exceeded.
• The decision on where to place the inspection station will
be influenced by various factors such as the importance of
operations, and controlling troublesome or key operations.
• Since inspection can often be performed for two or more
operations at the same time , in-process inspection can be
established at various inspection points in sewing
operations, as opposed to the inspector literally selecting
work at each operator’s work station.
• First, a complete manufacturing process chart should be
made, clearly identifying the production or manufacturing
steps for each type of garments made. For example,

13. Sewing garments

14. • Marker lay made according to cutting ticket. Marker lay
checked 100%
• 1. Collar department: Fuse stays, run collar tops, trim
points .turn and press (shape), top stitch, trim tops. Hem
bands, stitch lining to bands. Band collar. Turn band ends.
Trim and baste. Quarter-mark band. Buttonhole. Button
sew
• 2. Cuff department: Hem cuff, run cuff. Shape cuff
topstitch. Buttonhole. Button sews.
• 3. Under fronts: Baste neck. Crease front. Hem button
stay. Button sews. set pocket .set flap
• 4. Upper fronts: Baste neck. Crease front. Center pleat.
Buttonhole. Set pocket. Set flap

15. • 5. Sleeves: Piece binding , Blind sleeve, Tack binding
• 6. Back: Pleat .backs.
• 7. Yokes: label. sew
• 8. Marker and material delivered to the spreading
operation. Material spread
• 9. Machine knife cut
• 10. Die cutting small parts
• 11. Cut parts delivered to plants
• 12. Attach yoke backs
• 13. Assemble completed bundles of parts, any size
,section ,ply number ,and/or shade

16. • 14.Join shoulder steam
• 15.Join collar to shirt
• 16.Set sleeve ,join side and underarm seams
(side fell)
• 17.Cuff attach , hem shirt , trim threads
• 18.Button shirt , roll collar , press , fold
• 19.Pack

17. • Then inspection points or station should be
carefully selected so that the operations to be
checked are neither covered by later operations,
nor necessitate ripping good work to repair a
defect.
• Inspection station should provide a uniform work
load for each inspector and should minimize the
elapsed time between the completion of an
operation and its inspection.

18. • For example, a sequence of operations for men’s
dress shirts.
• Each operator should be told what standard of
work is acceptable and what is not there should
be a written quality specification for each job in
the manufacturing process.
• Whenever possible, sketches of garment parts
such as those should be included, illustrating how
they are supposed to appear after completion.

19. • Dimension and tolerances for critical points
must be included.
• Knowledge of the factors that create
problems in a particular operation helps
determine the specific dimension or
characteristic.
• Each inspector should be clearly told what to
look for while inspecting various operations.

20. • Book source:
• 1. The Technology of Clothing Manufacture-
Latham Carr.
• Read more of my articles are continuously
published in
:http://textilelearner.blogspot.com.