useful to apparel tech,fashion tech students.

1. Pattern grading
R.S.BALAKUMAR
Associate Professor,.DFDA/HITS.
PADUR-CHENNAI-603103

2. • Pattern grading is the process of turning base size or sample
size patterns into additional sizes using a size specification
sheet or grading increments.
• This can be done manually or digitally using
computerized pattern cutting software.
• These increments are referred to as garment grading rules.
Each specific clothing market area and level has different
grading rules.

3. • Standard grading rules are given as ergonomic measurements of
the body.
• This can be done online or in pattern grading books. When
producing a clothing line, you will need a grading system to target a
specific target market.
• Grading is a necessary step that must be taken before approaching
sample manufacturers or factories, because they require card sets of
your specific patterns and an order of garments to be produced.
• Grading determines how your garments will fit in all sizes..
• Having a variety of sizes for each of your garments fills out your
minimum garment order cost effectively. Grading will not create
shape, but will only increase or decrease size of original shape.

5. Methods of Grading.
• There are three basic methods of pattern grading.
• These include:
• Cut and spread: This is the easiest method, which acts as the basis of the other two
methods. To perform this method, you must cut the pattern and spread the pieces by a
certain amount to grade up, or overlap the pieces to grade down. The only tools you will need
for this method are a pencil, tape, ruler, and scissors.
• Pattern shifting: Pattern shifting involves increasing the overall dimensions of a pattern by
moving it around at a constant distance. After you move it, you redraw the outline in order to
produce the same results as cut-and-spread.
• Computer grading: Computer grading is the most recent development in grading
technology. It is also the fastest method.
• Computer grading, however, is expensive and usually only large manufacturers can afford it.
Computer grading takes the processes of the two former methods and digitizes them.
• There is not a superior method; they are all equally capable of producing a correct garment
grade.

7. • Women's sewing patterns are generally designed to fit a specific
size (usually an 8 or 10). That is the sample size, and the fit is
perfected on that sample.
• Once the fit is approved for that size, the pattern is "graded" for
a full range of sizes (usually size 4 to 18, for misses sizes).

9. • The "grade rules" refer to the amount of change between sizes,
for each measurement point. For example, the bust, waist and
hip "grade" 1" between sizes for most of the Misses size range.
•
• If you started with a size 8 dress and needed to make another
one in a size 10, you'd make the bust, waist and hip 1"
larger. You'd do this primarily by making the adjustment at the
side seam, and distribute the 1" size difference evenly at
each seam.

11. • Grading in the apparel manufacturing industry is well known as
the art of proportionally increasing or decreasing a given size
pattern part from one size to another, retaining everything true
to its original form. The grading network for a block pattern is
also the basic network for the components which have been
developed from the block pattern.
• Article Contributed by-R.S.BALAKUMAR
• SOURCE-FIBRE 2 FASHION.COM

12. • There are many techniques involved in the grading of garment
pattern but they all have one common principle- the basic grade.
Grading system can be classified in to the following two broad
systems:
• 1. Track Shift System or Two dimensional grading.
• 2. Draft Grade System or Three dimensional grading.

13. Two-dimensional system:
• Two dimensional grading systems only grades a pattern for girth
and height and its application is therefore limited to loose or semi
drape garments because it retains the stock size suppression
throughout the size range.
• This system is more apt to a very loose fitting garment such as a
shirt or blouse with a limited range to say, 10-12-14, may be safely
graded using a two dimensional system.

14. Three dimensional system:
• This system not only increases a pattern for size but it also increases
or decreases suppression in the following areas:
• Bust to shoulder
• Hip to Waist
• Elbow to wrist

15. • Three dimensional grading is the optimum system and should
be used whenever possible, particularly when grading close fitting
or skin-tight garments and garments that progress in size from 10
to 22.
• The most important garment area is the bust to shoulder
suppression quantity. A good working knowledge of pattern
cutting is required to use a three-dimensional grading system.
•

16. • Types of Garment: There are two main categories, they are:
•Close or skin-tight fitting garments
•Loose or semi drape garments.
•
• The closer the garment fit, the more important it is to select a
sophisticated garment grading system which adjusts the garment
with the garment suppression. If the garment fit is loose the value
of adjusting the garment suppression decreases and a two
dimensional system becomes more advisable.

17. •
Number of sizes:
• This may depend a little on whether a garment is close or loose-
fitting, but it mainly refers to a situation where the company or
firm only offers a limited number of sizes, the complexity of the
grading system, etc.
•

18. • Types of Fabric: For grading purpose fabrics may be classified in to
two broad types:
• Stretch
• Non-stretch
•
• Stretch fabrics are more for adjustable and will fit readily to the body
contours or silhouettes and therefore, it can be employed. A non
stretch fabric has the reverse effect and must be kept under the control
and in balance through the size range.
•

19. • Grading Techniques:
• The draft or multi size (Nested) grade.
• The track or single size grade.

20. The Draft Grade:
• This term applies when the pattern is returned to its original block form or
when the increment is applied to the actual pattern draft.
• This results in the entire size range being super imposed one on top of
another and can also be described by the term 'Nested' or 'Tracked'.
• The individual pieces of pattern for each size are then picked or traced off
onto card.
• A draft grade can be either two or three dimensional. The three
dimensional draft grade is considered to be the ultimate method for
applying grade increments.

21. The Track Grade:
• This term is used when grade increments are applied to individual
pieces of pattern by moving the base pattern pieces along with the
predetermined tracks.
• Making the pattern section by section and thus altering its size.
• This system is usually two dimensional but can be adapted to a three
dimensional system with difficulty.

22. • Following are the steps for manual grading:
• 1. To prepare for grading
• 2. Grading the pattern
• 3. Check the pattern grading measurements
• 4. Completing the pattern.

23. The tools required for grading are as under:
• 1. Parallel rules
• 2. Awl
• 3. Carpenters pencil
• 4. Proportional divider
• 5. French curve
• 6. Arm hole curve
• 7. Tailors square
• 8. Notch maker
• 9. Grade ruler
• 10. Measuring tape
• 11. Colour sketch pen or pencils

24. Size intervals:
• A sizing system is a pre-determined size interval i.e. the major
girth difference between each size.
• The variation in the size is in the order of plus or minus 2cm
then the logical size interval would be 4cm.
• Practically, intervals smaller than 4cm result into more used
sizes of the range.

25. • Size charts: There are two types of size charts in normal use.
• 1. Body measurements: This type of chart provides the human body
measurements for each size and these measurements are used as a basis
for constructing a pattern with the requisite amounts of ease.
• 2. Garment measurements:-This chart gives the details of the finished
measurements, specification for each size and is used for pattern grading
purpose. A size is a combination of measurements and each combination is
designated by a symbol which is a common code between the apparel
manufacturer and the consumer.

26. • The 'X ' AXIS and 'Y'AXIS: The x -axis for body and y-axis for
body and skirt grades would be a line on, or parallel to the
center back or center front. This is always true, if straight y-axis
is a line on, or parallel to a major girth line such as the bust,
waist, or hip.

27. • The different types of grading that are still in usage are: manual
grading, machine grading, and computerized grading are still used.
• The practice of garment grading is mainly concerned with efficiently
producing dimensionally accurate patterns.
• In order to do this, some basic rules must be always observed.
• There is no hard and fast rule as how to actually produce the sets of
graded patterns and the choice of working method is also dependent
on an individual's accuracy and convenience.

28. • Image courtesy:
• Threadsmagazine.com
• R.S. Balakumar has M.A (Sociology), MLM. He is a member of the
Council of the ISTE member, New Delhi and specializes in Garment
Technology.

29. •THANK YOU