Base map and water analysis map

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Base Mapping and Water Analysis
Ben Stamats

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Base Mapping Process
 I chose to use google maps to trace my base map. I was only
able to zoom in until the scale read 1” = 50’. The scale I ended
up using on my map was ½” = 25’ since this was an easier
scale for the size of my garden. The garden I use is part of a
larger farm so I put in features that were in close proximity to
my garden area. This includes fruit trees just north of my
garden, an asparagus patch east of my garden, a property line
to the south (corn field), and a gravel road to the west. I
realized that its pretty tough to define garden lines on the
property so I had to estimate a little as to where the crops
actually begin. Best example would be the asparagus. There
are no defining boarders. As for my plot, since I work this
ground most frequently, it was easier to map the garden and
trace it out.

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Base Map

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Water Summary
 My area receives 34” of precipitation yearly. We have a fairly consistent
distribution of precipitation throughout the year although from May-June it is
generally wet. I would call this our wet season. August- October would be our
dry season.
 Our local watershed is called the Lower Wapsipinicon Watershed. It is located
regionally within the Upper Mississippi Watershed.
 My garden has Tama soil. It is a pretty slow draining soil. It takes about 10 days
for the moisture to disperse or evaporate. The high water table sits about 5 feet
below the topsoil.
 The water flows through my site generally from the SW and leaves the garden
in the NE. I do have a northern sloped garden which is no ideal although it is
such a small grade that it does not cause growing problems. The issues I am
worried about are potential pollution from the water running off the gravel road
from the west into my garden. Another worry is the corn farmer to the south
who may have some pesticides running off in the SW corner of garden.

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Water Analysis Map

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Water Management
 The most prominent thing I have learned in regards to water management
at my site is the use of swales. I think this would be the most practical
since I have such a large area of land to work with with not too many
obstructions. I could dig a trench on the west side and the south side of
the garden with a tractor. A checkmark swale would be my choice since I
could easily get that shape with the three-point plow we use on the tractor.
 Rain barrels are another good technique since the well is so far away from
my plot. According to my scale, the well is 150-200 feet away from my
garden. This is too lengthy for me to want to set up irrigation. I believe I
could set up pairs of water barrels up around my garden. Maybe one in
each corner for a total of 8 barrels.
 Water pollution is the only concern I have at the moment with my site. The
run off from the gravel road is where most the pollutants would come from
although I’m not sure exactly how much reaches my garden. I just know
that they use limestone gravel and the city also sprays an oil to keep dust
levels down.