Fabric Inspections - The usual process at a fabric inspection of a Sri Lankan Apparel Manufacturer.

1. 

2. D.S.C. Jayasinghe
B.Sc. Eng ( Moratuwa )

3. 
1. 100% Shade Grouping
2. Color Confirmation
3. 10% Fabric Inspection
4. GSM Testing
5. Shrinkages - Testing
Inspections & Testing's
Done at Fabric Inspections

4. 
1. Swatches of fabric is cut away from each roll at the
unloading stage.
2. Each Piece is given the roll number of it’s origin.
3. Cut away pieces from these swatches are shade
grouped under the standard lighting conditions of
the relative Buyer.
4. If the fabric is for washed garments , then the shade
grouping is done after washing.
5. Grouped Shades are inserted in to the computer
software for the information of cutting department.
100% Shade Grouping

5. 
Swatches of fabric is cut away from each roll
at the unloading stage.
100% Shade Grouping

6. 
Roll number is written down on the piece
100% Shade Grouping

7. 
These pieces are shade grouped under the standard
lighting conditions of the certain Buyer. For washed
garments, this is done after washing the piece.
100% Shade Grouping

8. 
1. Solid Color Fabrics should be folded along the
width of the fabric.
2. Stripes Should be folded across the stripes when
shade grouping.
3. Small prints should be grouped based on the size of
the print as well.
4. Stripes should be grouped considering the repeat
width also.
5. While achieving all the above, work towards
achieving the minimum shades possible.
Shade Grouping Tips

9. 
Shade Grouping Tips
A roll with a
Different
Repeat Width
Should be put
in to a Different
Shade

10. 
Shade Grouping Tips
A roll with a
Different Size
Prints Should
be put in to a
different Shade

11. 
Shade Groups are Finally Entered in to a
System for the information of cutting
100% Shade Grouping

12. 
 The color of The bulk
is checked Against an
approved bulk Hanger.
** Matching of rolls in a
Bulk Shade should be very
higher Than the matching of bulk
Hanger With the bulk shades.
Color Confirmation

13. 
1. 3 Pieces of Fabric is cut away diagonally from each
roll of 10% inspection.
2. 3 Circles ( each = 1/100 of a square meter) is cut away
using the circular cutter from these pieces and
measure the weight.
3. The weight of all 3 pieces is totaled and divided by 3
to get the median value.
4. A piece closer to the median value is affixed in the
GSM report and mention the GSM.
GSM Testing

14. 
3 Pieces of Fabric is cut away diagonally from
each roll of 10% inspection.
GSM Testing

15. 
3 Pieces ( 1/100 of a square meter) is
segregated using the circular cutter from these
pieces and measure the weight
GSM Testing

16. 
Measuring the weight of a pieces.
GSM Testing
Calibrated Scale is used to
measure the weight of the
piece.
3 Pieces together or
individually measured by
this method. Divide the
total value by 3 to get the
median value.
When we multiply this
value by 100, we receive
the actual GSM of the
fabric.

17. 
 GSM Report is
Prepared affixing one piece
Closer to median value of
The GSM of the fabric,
+/- 5% tolerance Is acceptable.
GSM Report

18. 
1. 10% of rolls are taken from every batch at the
unloading stage.
2. Rolls are inspected according to standard 4 point
inspection method.
3. Based on the average point count
 0-16 Points – Fabric Pass
 16-28 Points – Fabric in the High Fault Rate Range
 28 + -- Fabric is Rejecting
10% Fabric Inspection

19. 
Rolls being inspected

20. 
We use standard 4 point inspection method for grading and inspecting
fabric. Based on this method the points to defects are given as follows.
Maximum points can be given to a linear yard is 4.
Inspection Method
Defect Size / Type Points Given
Hole 4
Other Defects
0”-3” 1
3”-6” 2
6”-9” 3
9” + 4

21. 
There are several types of fabric defects. Few of them can be
mentioned as follows.
1. Fly Yarns
2. Holes
3. Slubs
4. Stains
5. Printing Mistakes
6. Miss Yarns ( Composites )
7. Missing Wales
8. Dye Patches
9. Crease Marks
10. Thick Yarns
11. Thin Yarns
12. Dirt Marks
Defects on Knitted Fabrics

22. 
This is due to Different color yarn contaminate with the
fabric. Points are given based on the size , 90% of fly
yarns can be removed by using sharp tweezers , Fly
Yarns can be easily removed on a 100% cotton fabric
than in a 95/5 Cotton / Spandex Mix.
Higher the yarn thickness easier the removing of fly
yarns.
Fly Yarn

23. 
Fly Yarn ( Image )

24. 
Holes are due to various issues , Mostly due to breaking
of knitting needles. Damages due to sharp instruments
is also a reason for holes , Holes are always given 4
points neglecting it’s size, Holes are hard to repair and
consume more technical skills and sharp instruments.
Hole

25. 
Hole ( Image )

26. 
Slubs are due to entangling of yarns and slubs precent
in the raw yarns. Points to a slub is given based on it’s
size. Repairing of slub need excellent patience and skill.
If a slub is not repaired correctly it would end up as a
hole.
Slubs

27. 
Slub ( Image )

28. 
Stains ( Image)

29. 
Stains occur due to chemicals and natural material as
well. There are basically 3 types of stains.
1. Water Born Stain
2. Oil Born Stain
3. Heat Set Stain
Approximately 99% of all stains are removable on
white fabrics while it is quite hard to remove on a color
fabric due to the objective of saving the color.
Stains

30. 
Stains have 2 basic combination which affect the fabric
1. Bonding with the fabric
2. Color
For oil born stain you have to use a hydrocarbon ( Thinner )
to remove the stain from bonding , For a water born stain
you can use water or an alcohol ( Surgical Spirit ). To remove
the color of a stain you have to use a tough oxidizer ( Liquid
Chlorine ). When you are testing trial an error method for a
stain you have to begin with water , hot water and soap
before all others.
Stains ( How to Remove )

31. 
Printing mistakes happen due to various reasons.
1. Damage of the Screen
2. Screen Setting off
3. Squeegee malfunctioning
4. Tension of the fabric is wrong or varying
Most of the Printing mistakes become critical and impossible
to repair, some small damages are correctable yet you may
need buyers approval for uncured painting.
Printing Mistake

32. 
Printing Mistakes ( Image )

33. 
Usually a miss yarn in a knitted fabric should be an
opening of the fabric , Yet in a composite fabric( ex. 95/5
Cotton / Spandex ) a miss yarn can be found with the
availability of the body yarn or the elastic yarn.
Miss Yarns

34. 
Miss Yarn ( Image )

35. 
Dye patches occur due to pouring of chemicals
carelessly, due to having less homogeneous dye baths
and entanglements of the fabric in the dyeing process.
Points are given based on the size of the defect.
Dye patches are hard to be corrected.
Dye Patches

36. 
Dye Patches ( Image )

37. 
A continuous gap between adjacent wales is called as a
missing wale. Missing wales are due to continuing of
knitting at the breakage of a needle or malfunctioning
of a needle lifting mechanism.
Missing Wale

38. 
Missing Wale ( Images )

39. 
Crease Marks Happen due to the crushing of fabric at
the finishing stage , rolling stage and transport stage
and stocking stage as well.
Crease marks on knitted fabrics is not a serious defect
while it become very serious on woven fabrics.
Crease Marks

40. 
Crease Marks ( Image)

41. 
Thick yarns occur due to feeding of higher thickness of
yarn to the knitting machine or lower tension of a
certain yarn.
Thick yarns cannot be correct at a sewing facility.
Thick Yarns

42. 
Thick Yarn ( Image )

43. 
Thin yarns occur due to feeding of lower thickness yarn
to the knitting machine or higher tension of a certain
yarn.
Thin yarns cannot be correct at a sewing facility.
Thin Yarn

44. 
Thin Yarn ( Image)

45. 
Long looped courses are specially can be seen at 95 / 5
Elastane blends. This happens due to the breakage of
elastic yarn at the knitting stage, when the elastic yarn
is broken the loop length of a certain course increases
and the fabric become more transparent along that
course.
Long Looped Courses

46. 
The long loops seen
with the assistance
of a backlight
Long Loops ( Images )

47. 
Dirt marks occur mainly at rolling stages, packing and
transporting stages ,
Most dirt marks are easily washable yet should and can
be avoided.
Dirt Marks

48. 
Inspection report is prepared by inserting length,
width, points, correctly.
The point count is expressed as Average Points Per 100
Square Yards.
Next slide will describe the complete method of
calculating Average point count.
Preparing Inspection Report

49. 
Formula to Calculate Average Point Count

50. 
4 Point Inspection Report

51. 
Points 0 to 16 - Fabric Pass
Proceed Normally
Points 16 to 28 – Fabric is in High Fault Rate range
Need to do CPI prior issuing to line
Points 28 + - Fabric is in Rejecting Range
Need to inform to supplier to arrange CPI
teams and receive the replacement yardages
Fabric Status Based on Average
Point Count

52. 
3 pieces of fabric is cut away from the start , middle and
end of the rolls at the inspection stage.
These Pieces are joined together as we can monitor the
color shading both length wise and width wise.
Width Wise , Length Wise Color
Shading Inspection

53. 
Shading Blanket

54. 
 If Length wise color shading found
 Inform the cutting to do 100 % numbering
 If Width wise color shading found
 Inform to cutting and CAD room to draw and cut in grouped
markers and receive increasing YY from mill
 Both length and width wise color shading found
 Inform the cutting to proceed with group markers and 100%
numbering.
For washed Garments , shading panel is inspected after the
washing process.
Shading Panel Inspection

55. 
Skewness

56. 
 Skewness is expressed as a percentage.
Measuring Skewness
x
y
Skewness = x X 100%
y

57. 
 Leg Twisting of garments.
 Side seam twisting of garments.
 Various shape measurement alterations in complex
garments after washing.
Effects of Skew Movement

58. 
Residual Shrinkage is used to measure the residual
stress on a fabric remaining after various processes.
Residual shrinkage is measured at the time periods of 6
hours , 18 hours , 24 hours and 48 hours.
By Monitoring 0 difference between time intervals , we
can decide the relaxing time of fabric.
Residual Shrinkages

59. 
Marking Shrinkage Panels

60. 
Measuring Shrinkages at the right
intervals

61. 
Residual Shrinkage Report

62. 
 Wash Shrinkages are done mostly for 100% rolls and
is done as same as residual shrinkages, the only
difference is , the shrinkages are taken after washing
the pieces in the standard condition.
 Not like residual shrinkages, wash shrinkages are
inserted in to the computer system for the
information of cutting department, patterns are
adjusted according to it.
Wash Shrinkages

63. 
All below tests should pass to proceed a fabric for
cutting,
1. 10 % fabric inspection
2. Color matching
3. GSM test
4. Shrinkages
At the end of the process all passing rolls are shade vise
inserted in to system for cutting.
Summary

64. 
The End