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BUILDING BLOCKS FOR
FORMULATION OF DIFFERENT
COSMETICS
Prepared By:
GAURAV
M.PHARMA 2ND SEM
DEPARTMENT OF PHARMACEUTICS
1
CONTENT
 Moisturizing cream
 Vanishing Cream
 Cold Cream
 Shampoo
 Toothpaste
Definition,
Types,
Ingredients,
General
Formula,
Manufacturing
Evaluation
2
CREAMS
■ Creams are defined as
a semisolid dosage
form containing one or
more drug substances
dissolved or dispersed
in a suitable base.
3
TYPES OF SKIN CREAM
1. Moisturizing Cream 2.Vanishing Cream
4. Foundation Cream3. Cold Cream
4
INGREDIENTS
1) Water
2) Oils, fats & waxes
(a) Mineral oil (Light liquid paraffin, Heavy liquid paraffin
)
(b) Glyceride oil (Almond oil, Castor oil )
(c) Fats (Palmitic, Stearic acids, Olive oil, Coca butter,
Peanut oil)
(d) Waxes (Carnauba wax, Beeswax)
3) Lanolin (Derived from wool fat )
4) Glycol (Ethylene glycol, Diethylene glycol & Propylene
glycol)
5
5) Colors (Saffron, Chlorophyll, Cochineal)
6) Emollients : Also known as Moisturizers.
Eg : Mineral oil, Squalene, Lanolin
7) Emulsifying agents
(a) Inorganic solids :Eg: Bentonite, Kaolin
(b) Gums & Proteins Eg: Gum arabic, Gum tragacanth,
Gelatin, Egg albumin
8) Wetting agent
Type of surface active agents & lower surface tension.
Eg : Soaps, Sulphonated oils, Fatty alcohol sulphates,
Sulphated fatty esters & amides
6
9) Humectants ( Proteins , acids & Polysaccharides )
10) Perfumes ( White blossoms , Rosy dreams , Orange
blossom )
11) Some functional raw materials like vitamins, amino
acids and anti-inflammatory agents may also be
incorporated in creams.
7
MANUFACTURING OF CREAMS
Oil
phase
Water
phase
Stirring
&
Mixing
Suractant
Chelating agents
Perfumes
Colouring agents
Continue
Mixing
Heating at
70 ºC
8
1. MOISTURIZING CREAM
 When water is lost from stratum corneum more rapidly
than it is received from lower layers of skin the skin
becomes dehydrated.
 The dehydrated skin loses it’s flexibility and appears
rough.
 Creams which restore water or moisture & plasticizes the
stratum corneum, provides it’s flexibility and makes it
soft. These types of cream are known as moisturizing
cream.
9
FORMULA
Stearic acid : 4%
Mineral oil : 8%
Lanolin : 1%
Glyceryl monostearate (se) : 3%
Isopropyl myristate : 2%
Glycerine : 4%
Propylene Glycol : 4%
Triethanolamine : 0.2%
Water : 100%
Perfume & Preservatives : Q.S
10
2. VANISHING CREAM
 Creams which spread easily & seem to disappear rapidly
when rubbed on the skin are termed as vanishing
creams.
 These creams are composed of emollient esters which
leave little apparent film on the skin.
 Traditional formulae of vanishing creams are based on
stearic acid.
 Stearic acid melts above body temperature & crystallizes
in a form so as to be invisible providing a non-greasy film
.It also imparts attractive appearance to the cream.
11
FORMULA
Stearic acid - 17%
Potassium hydroxide - 0.7%
Glycerine - 5%
Water - 100%
Perfumes & Preservatives - Q.S
12
3. COLD CREAM
 Cold cream is a w/o type emulsion which when applied to
skin , a cooling effect is produced, due to slow
evaporation of water present in the emulsion.
 Cold cream is an emulsion of fats and water which can
be used to clean & soften the skin.
 Cold cream has been used to remove makeup gently at
the end of day & it can also be used to soften tough skin
on the knees and elbows or to keep skin protected from
harsh winter weather.
 Cold cream is prepared by saponification reaction
between beeswax & alkali borax.
13
FORMULA
White beeswax - 10g
Liquid paraffin - 30g
Borax - 0.5g
Rose oil - 0.1ml
Water - 10ml
14
EVALUATION OF CREAMS
1) Presence of foreign particles :
 A Small amount of cream was taken and spread on a glass slide
free from grease and was observed against diffused light to check
for the presence of foreign particles.
2) pH of the cream :
 About 1g of the cream was weighed & dissolved in 100ml of
distilled water and stored for 2 hrs. Ph of different formulations was
determined by using digital pH meter.
3) Viscosity :
 Viscosity of the formulation was determined by brookfield
viscometer using spindle no. S-64 at 20rpm at a temperature of
25ºC & determinations were carried out in triplicate and the
average of three recordings were recorded. 15
4. SHAMPOO
 A Shampoo is a preparation
of a surfactant in a suitable
form – liquid, solid or
powder which when used
under the specialized
conditions will remove
surface grease, dirt and skin
debris from the hair shaft
and scalp without adversely
affecting the user.
16
INGREDIENTS FOR SHAMPOO
1) Surfactants :
(a) Anionic surfactants: Alkyl benzene sulphonates,
Alpha oleffin sulphonates, Sulphosuccinates
(b) Non-ionic surfactants: Fatty acid alkanolamides,
Polyalkoxylated derivatives, Amine oxides
(c) Amphoteric surfactants: N-alkyl aminoacids, Alkyl
imidazolines
2) Conditioning agents: Lanolin, Mineral oil, Polypeptides,
Egg derivatives, Herbal extracts
17
3) Viscosity modifiers :
(a) Electrolytes: Ammonium chloride, Sodium chloride
(b) Natural gums: Gum tragacanth, Gum karaya,
Alginates
(c) Cellulose derivatives: Hydroxyethyl cellulose,
Hydroxypropyl cellulose, Carboxymethyl cellulose
(d) Carboxyvinyl polymers: Polymer of acrylic acid
cross-linked with polyfunctional agent
(e) Others : Ethoxylated fatty acid diesters, Phosphate
esters, Polyvinyl pyrrolidones
18
4) Opacifying & Clarifying agents: Stearyl alcohol, Cetyl
alcohol, Propylene glycol, Phosphates, Finely dispersed
zinc oxide, Milky emulsions of vinyl polymers.
5) Preservatives : (Formaldehyde, Esters of para hydroxy
benzoic acid)
6) Perfumes
19
FORMULA OF DIFFERENT
SHAMPOO1. Powder Shampoo
2. Lotion Shampoo
Borax 15%
Henna Powder 5%
Soap Powder 50%
Sodium Carbonate 22.5%
Potassium Carbonate 7.5%
Perfume qs
Sodium lauryl sulphate 35%
Glyceryl monostearate 2%
Magnesium monostearate 1%
Water Upto 100
Colour, perfume,
preservatives
qs
20
3. Liquid Shampoo
4. Anti – dandruff shampoo:
Sodium lauryl
sulphate
40%
Sodium chloride 2-4%
Water Upto 100%
Perfume q.s
Selenium sulphide 2.5%
Bentonite 5%
Sodium lauryal sulphate 35%
Water Upto 100
Colour, perfume q.s
21
5. Conditioning shampoo:
Stearyl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride - 5.5%
Ethylene glycol monostearate - 2%
Cetyl alcohol - 2.5%
Water - upto
100%
Colour, Perfume & Preservatives - Q.S
22
EVALUATION OF SHAMPOO
1. Determination of percent of solid contents.
2. Determination of Ph.
3. Determination of viscosity
4. Foaming ability & Foam stability
5. Skin irritation test
6. Cleaning action
7. Dirt dispersion
8. Surface tension measurement
9. Eye irritation test
23
5. TOOTHPASTE
 Toothpaste is a paste or gel
dentifrice used with a toothbrush
as an accessory to clean &
maintain the aesthetics and health
of the teeth
24
INGREDIETS
1) ABRASIVES :
 These are used to remove food debris and residual stains of
the teeth & to polish the teeth surface.
 Examples: Precipitated calcium carbonate, Calcium
phosphate, Tricalcium phosphate, Calcium pyrophosphate.
2) Detergents & other foaming materials :
 These are used in toothpaste for their cleansing action.
 These materials lower surface tension, thereby promoting
penetration of paste & helps in removal of deposits & debris
25
 Example: sodium lauryal sulphate, Monoglycerides, Magnesium lauryl
sulphate, Sodium loryal sulphosuccinate
3) Humectants :
 Humectants in toothpastes are used to prevent their drying out.
 They also impart some plasticity to toothpastes.
 Eg: Glycerin, Propylene glycol, Sorbitol.
4) Binding Agent :
 Solid & liquid phases of toothpaste tends to separate in the absence of
binding agents particularly during storage.
 Binding agents disperse, swell or absorb water to form viscous liquid
phases
 Eg: Natural gums (Gum Arabic, Gum tragacanth), Cellulose derivatives
(Carboxy methylcellulose, Sodium carboxymethylcellulose, Hydroxyethyl
cellulose) Starch ethers
26
5) Sweetening & flavouring agents :
 These are the most important ingredients in toothpaste
as they have great influence on the acceptance of the
product.
 Eg: Saccharin sodium ( 0.05-0.3% ), Chloroform,
Peppermint, Spearmint, Coriander, Caraway, Anise,
Eucalyptus
27
Calcium carbonate - 60g
Glycerin - 20g
Tragacanth powder - 2g
Sodium lauryl sulphate - 2g
Saccharine - 0.5g
Peppermint oil - 0.5ml
Methyl paraben - 1g
Propyl paraben - 1g
Water - 15ml
FORMULATION
28
PROCEDURE FOR PREPARATION
 Take half the quantity of water, add tragacanth powder & heat it in a water bath
to get a gel .
 To the remaining quantity of water, add glycerine, sodium lauryl sulphate ,
preservative & mix it thoroughly to get a clear solution.
 Weigh the required quantity of saccharin and calcium carbonate solution & mix it
with the help of mortar and pestle.
 To this powder, add gum tragacanth & mix well.
 Add glycerine, preservative & sodium lauryl mixture to it and triturate uniformly
to get a paste.
 Finally add flavouring agent & triturate well.
29
EVALUATION OF TOOTHPASTE :
1) Determination of hard & sharp edged abrasive particles :
2) Determination of spreadability :
3) Determination of fineness
4) Determination of pH
5) Determination of foaming power
6) Moisture content
7) Determination of heavy metals
30
31

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building blocks for different cosmetics

  • 1. BUILDING BLOCKS FOR FORMULATION OF DIFFERENT COSMETICS Prepared By: GAURAV M.PHARMA 2ND SEM DEPARTMENT OF PHARMACEUTICS 1
  • 2. CONTENT  Moisturizing cream  Vanishing Cream  Cold Cream  Shampoo  Toothpaste Definition, Types, Ingredients, General Formula, Manufacturing Evaluation 2
  • 3. CREAMS ■ Creams are defined as a semisolid dosage form containing one or more drug substances dissolved or dispersed in a suitable base. 3
  • 4. TYPES OF SKIN CREAM 1. Moisturizing Cream 2.Vanishing Cream 4. Foundation Cream3. Cold Cream 4
  • 5. INGREDIENTS 1) Water 2) Oils, fats & waxes (a) Mineral oil (Light liquid paraffin, Heavy liquid paraffin ) (b) Glyceride oil (Almond oil, Castor oil ) (c) Fats (Palmitic, Stearic acids, Olive oil, Coca butter, Peanut oil) (d) Waxes (Carnauba wax, Beeswax) 3) Lanolin (Derived from wool fat ) 4) Glycol (Ethylene glycol, Diethylene glycol & Propylene glycol) 5
  • 6. 5) Colors (Saffron, Chlorophyll, Cochineal) 6) Emollients : Also known as Moisturizers. Eg : Mineral oil, Squalene, Lanolin 7) Emulsifying agents (a) Inorganic solids :Eg: Bentonite, Kaolin (b) Gums & Proteins Eg: Gum arabic, Gum tragacanth, Gelatin, Egg albumin 8) Wetting agent Type of surface active agents & lower surface tension. Eg : Soaps, Sulphonated oils, Fatty alcohol sulphates, Sulphated fatty esters & amides 6
  • 7. 9) Humectants ( Proteins , acids & Polysaccharides ) 10) Perfumes ( White blossoms , Rosy dreams , Orange blossom ) 11) Some functional raw materials like vitamins, amino acids and anti-inflammatory agents may also be incorporated in creams. 7
  • 8. MANUFACTURING OF CREAMS Oil phase Water phase Stirring & Mixing Suractant Chelating agents Perfumes Colouring agents Continue Mixing Heating at 70 ºC 8
  • 9. 1. MOISTURIZING CREAM  When water is lost from stratum corneum more rapidly than it is received from lower layers of skin the skin becomes dehydrated.  The dehydrated skin loses it’s flexibility and appears rough.  Creams which restore water or moisture & plasticizes the stratum corneum, provides it’s flexibility and makes it soft. These types of cream are known as moisturizing cream. 9
  • 10. FORMULA Stearic acid : 4% Mineral oil : 8% Lanolin : 1% Glyceryl monostearate (se) : 3% Isopropyl myristate : 2% Glycerine : 4% Propylene Glycol : 4% Triethanolamine : 0.2% Water : 100% Perfume & Preservatives : Q.S 10
  • 11. 2. VANISHING CREAM  Creams which spread easily & seem to disappear rapidly when rubbed on the skin are termed as vanishing creams.  These creams are composed of emollient esters which leave little apparent film on the skin.  Traditional formulae of vanishing creams are based on stearic acid.  Stearic acid melts above body temperature & crystallizes in a form so as to be invisible providing a non-greasy film .It also imparts attractive appearance to the cream. 11
  • 12. FORMULA Stearic acid - 17% Potassium hydroxide - 0.7% Glycerine - 5% Water - 100% Perfumes & Preservatives - Q.S 12
  • 13. 3. COLD CREAM  Cold cream is a w/o type emulsion which when applied to skin , a cooling effect is produced, due to slow evaporation of water present in the emulsion.  Cold cream is an emulsion of fats and water which can be used to clean & soften the skin.  Cold cream has been used to remove makeup gently at the end of day & it can also be used to soften tough skin on the knees and elbows or to keep skin protected from harsh winter weather.  Cold cream is prepared by saponification reaction between beeswax & alkali borax. 13
  • 14. FORMULA White beeswax - 10g Liquid paraffin - 30g Borax - 0.5g Rose oil - 0.1ml Water - 10ml 14
  • 15. EVALUATION OF CREAMS 1) Presence of foreign particles :  A Small amount of cream was taken and spread on a glass slide free from grease and was observed against diffused light to check for the presence of foreign particles. 2) pH of the cream :  About 1g of the cream was weighed & dissolved in 100ml of distilled water and stored for 2 hrs. Ph of different formulations was determined by using digital pH meter. 3) Viscosity :  Viscosity of the formulation was determined by brookfield viscometer using spindle no. S-64 at 20rpm at a temperature of 25ºC & determinations were carried out in triplicate and the average of three recordings were recorded. 15
  • 16. 4. SHAMPOO  A Shampoo is a preparation of a surfactant in a suitable form – liquid, solid or powder which when used under the specialized conditions will remove surface grease, dirt and skin debris from the hair shaft and scalp without adversely affecting the user. 16
  • 17. INGREDIENTS FOR SHAMPOO 1) Surfactants : (a) Anionic surfactants: Alkyl benzene sulphonates, Alpha oleffin sulphonates, Sulphosuccinates (b) Non-ionic surfactants: Fatty acid alkanolamides, Polyalkoxylated derivatives, Amine oxides (c) Amphoteric surfactants: N-alkyl aminoacids, Alkyl imidazolines 2) Conditioning agents: Lanolin, Mineral oil, Polypeptides, Egg derivatives, Herbal extracts 17
  • 18. 3) Viscosity modifiers : (a) Electrolytes: Ammonium chloride, Sodium chloride (b) Natural gums: Gum tragacanth, Gum karaya, Alginates (c) Cellulose derivatives: Hydroxyethyl cellulose, Hydroxypropyl cellulose, Carboxymethyl cellulose (d) Carboxyvinyl polymers: Polymer of acrylic acid cross-linked with polyfunctional agent (e) Others : Ethoxylated fatty acid diesters, Phosphate esters, Polyvinyl pyrrolidones 18
  • 19. 4) Opacifying & Clarifying agents: Stearyl alcohol, Cetyl alcohol, Propylene glycol, Phosphates, Finely dispersed zinc oxide, Milky emulsions of vinyl polymers. 5) Preservatives : (Formaldehyde, Esters of para hydroxy benzoic acid) 6) Perfumes 19
  • 20. FORMULA OF DIFFERENT SHAMPOO1. Powder Shampoo 2. Lotion Shampoo Borax 15% Henna Powder 5% Soap Powder 50% Sodium Carbonate 22.5% Potassium Carbonate 7.5% Perfume qs Sodium lauryl sulphate 35% Glyceryl monostearate 2% Magnesium monostearate 1% Water Upto 100 Colour, perfume, preservatives qs 20
  • 21. 3. Liquid Shampoo 4. Anti – dandruff shampoo: Sodium lauryl sulphate 40% Sodium chloride 2-4% Water Upto 100% Perfume q.s Selenium sulphide 2.5% Bentonite 5% Sodium lauryal sulphate 35% Water Upto 100 Colour, perfume q.s 21
  • 22. 5. Conditioning shampoo: Stearyl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride - 5.5% Ethylene glycol monostearate - 2% Cetyl alcohol - 2.5% Water - upto 100% Colour, Perfume & Preservatives - Q.S 22
  • 23. EVALUATION OF SHAMPOO 1. Determination of percent of solid contents. 2. Determination of Ph. 3. Determination of viscosity 4. Foaming ability & Foam stability 5. Skin irritation test 6. Cleaning action 7. Dirt dispersion 8. Surface tension measurement 9. Eye irritation test 23
  • 24. 5. TOOTHPASTE  Toothpaste is a paste or gel dentifrice used with a toothbrush as an accessory to clean & maintain the aesthetics and health of the teeth 24
  • 25. INGREDIETS 1) ABRASIVES :  These are used to remove food debris and residual stains of the teeth & to polish the teeth surface.  Examples: Precipitated calcium carbonate, Calcium phosphate, Tricalcium phosphate, Calcium pyrophosphate. 2) Detergents & other foaming materials :  These are used in toothpaste for their cleansing action.  These materials lower surface tension, thereby promoting penetration of paste & helps in removal of deposits & debris 25
  • 26.  Example: sodium lauryal sulphate, Monoglycerides, Magnesium lauryl sulphate, Sodium loryal sulphosuccinate 3) Humectants :  Humectants in toothpastes are used to prevent their drying out.  They also impart some plasticity to toothpastes.  Eg: Glycerin, Propylene glycol, Sorbitol. 4) Binding Agent :  Solid & liquid phases of toothpaste tends to separate in the absence of binding agents particularly during storage.  Binding agents disperse, swell or absorb water to form viscous liquid phases  Eg: Natural gums (Gum Arabic, Gum tragacanth), Cellulose derivatives (Carboxy methylcellulose, Sodium carboxymethylcellulose, Hydroxyethyl cellulose) Starch ethers 26
  • 27. 5) Sweetening & flavouring agents :  These are the most important ingredients in toothpaste as they have great influence on the acceptance of the product.  Eg: Saccharin sodium ( 0.05-0.3% ), Chloroform, Peppermint, Spearmint, Coriander, Caraway, Anise, Eucalyptus 27
  • 28. Calcium carbonate - 60g Glycerin - 20g Tragacanth powder - 2g Sodium lauryl sulphate - 2g Saccharine - 0.5g Peppermint oil - 0.5ml Methyl paraben - 1g Propyl paraben - 1g Water - 15ml FORMULATION 28
  • 29. PROCEDURE FOR PREPARATION  Take half the quantity of water, add tragacanth powder & heat it in a water bath to get a gel .  To the remaining quantity of water, add glycerine, sodium lauryl sulphate , preservative & mix it thoroughly to get a clear solution.  Weigh the required quantity of saccharin and calcium carbonate solution & mix it with the help of mortar and pestle.  To this powder, add gum tragacanth & mix well.  Add glycerine, preservative & sodium lauryl mixture to it and triturate uniformly to get a paste.  Finally add flavouring agent & triturate well. 29
  • 30. EVALUATION OF TOOTHPASTE : 1) Determination of hard & sharp edged abrasive particles : 2) Determination of spreadability : 3) Determination of fineness 4) Determination of pH 5) Determination of foaming power 6) Moisture content 7) Determination of heavy metals 30
  • 31. 31