A comprehensive background of L'Oréal containing its History and Origins, Early Evolution, Modern Business, Global Expansion, Company Structure, Recent Efforts and Company DNA. As one of the chapters of the book FMCG: The Power of Fast-Moving Consumer Goods by authors Greg Thain and John Bradley. For more details on their success story and that of other leading FMCG companies, check www.fmcgbook.com or Amazon http://amzn.to/1jRyd20.
3. L’Oréal is the world's leading company in cosmetics and beauty care products
Originally named as Société Francaise des Teintures Inoffensives pour Cheveux
(literally translated French Society for Inoffensive Tinctures of Hair) and was
founded in 1909 at Clichy, France by Eugène Schueller
L’Oréal‘s founder Eugène Schueller entered the Institute for Applied Chemistry
in Paris and became an instructor at the Sorbonne
He worked as a chemist at Pharmacie Centrale de France and later became the
head of their research laboratory and chemical services
In 1905, he was visited by a hairdresser who was anxious to pay someone 50
Francs a month to find a safe and reliable hair dye
This is when Eugène’s life, and the future global cosmetics industry, changed.
In 1907, he launched his new hair dye under the brand name Auréole
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4. To publicise his ventures, he contributed articles to a magazine called
Coiffure de Paris.
While Eugène had been giving the German army the treatment he later
doled out to his competitors, the management of L’Oréal was in the hands
of his wife. L’Oréal did very well.
The formula for success was already very well established, and top scientists
were coming up with products, which offered breakthrough performances at
affordable prices.
In 1919, he bought out the Lumière film production company
He also dabbled in companies making Bakelite, cellulose acetate and
artificial silk
Revenues ran at 300,000 francs a month
In 1954, he managed to run a soap company, a paint factory and a magazine
alongside L’Oreal
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5. L’Oréal employed three (3) chemists in 1920
In 1925, L’Oréal came up with its first real blockbuster product, L’Oréal d’Or,
a hair dye that added golden highlights which made dyed blonde hair seem
natural
Business boomed because of a sea of change in women’s hairstyles.
Hollywood star-inspired craze for the bob and frequent dying was bad for
hair
It immediately set the business to work on devising a ground-breaking
bleach
In 1929, L’Oréal Blanc, the hair bleach was launched
The rise of the perm was another threat. Perms did not accept hair dyes that
did not penetrate the hair
They filed a patent for paradiamines which formed the basis of fast-penetrating
hair colours, Imédia, a perm-friendly dye
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6. Company revenues in the year exceeded a million francs a month
In 1934, Dop, the first mass market shampoo was launched, marking the start
of making its science available at affordable prices to as wide as a market as
possible
During the same year, Ambre Solaire, the sun protection oil was developed
and launched
With 300 employed salesmen, L’Oreal was by far the country’s most
successful hair and skin-care company
A French politician, André Bettencourt joined the business in 1938 and
François Dalle in 1941
In 1942, they developed a mixing tower that embodied a new saponification
process which became the industry standard, improving the manufacture of
soap
In 1951, the company had more than 100 chemists
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7. During the same year, the first lightening tin, Imélda D was produced.
In 1954, the company expanded its research capabilities in skin care.
They signed a technical agreements with Vichy, owned by a cosmetologist
Georges Guerin.
They used the Vichy Thermal Spa Water to treat a skin wound while staying
at the famous spa
Subsequently developed a range of skin products all containing the magic
elixir
In 1955, the first coloring shampoo, Colorette, was introduced
In 1957, Eugène Schuller passed away and François Dalle was the next in line
as the new boss.
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8. In 1957, hair products were launched onto the consumer market
This took the science to a new level, thus, the establishment of a
Fundamental Research Unit
Focused on developing a greater understanding of how skin and hair
actually function
Focused on hair and skin care products and sold off the soap business
The firm worked on enhancement of any hair and skin care brands with the
use of research capabilities in basic skin and hair physiology and function
In 1964, Lancôme became the first major acquisition
This took the company into the upscale perfume and make-up sectors
The Kérastase brand was also launched, a cross between a hair treatment
and a spa experience
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9. In 1965, Laboratoires Garnier was acquired, a manufacturer of hair care
products made with organic ingredients
In 1970, another brand, Biotherm, was acquired.
During the same year, L’Oreal was already employing 500 scientists and had
just acquired the mass-market Gemey brand of makeup
In 1973, a majority stake was taken in the pharmaceutical company,
Synthélabo
In 1979, the company bought the pharma company, Metabio-Joullie, and
substantial strakes in both Marie Claire and Interedi-Cosmopolitan
By 1980, the merging of Synthélabo and Metabio-Joullie took place
Gesparal, a new French holding company, was formed owned 51% by Liliane
and 49% by Nestlé.
It provided L’Oréal a strong defense against hostile takeover
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10. For Nestlé, it was an excellent investment into a category that was growing
faster and had higher profit margins than most of their core businesses
The idea of the business with Nestlé is that it protect the company from the
short-term demands of the stock market
The partnership enabled them to take a longer-term perspective to business
strategy
Cacharel was also invested in.
This was where the Parfums et Beauté International expertise was
applied to
The perfume arm of Cacharel and Anaïs Anaïs was taken control of
Designed to be the first perfume bought by or for teenage girls
In 1981, a new state-of-the-art dermatological research facility, Laboratoires
Dermatalogiques Galderma, was opened
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11. Another tangible benefit from their Nestlé shareholder, a 50:50 joint venture
between the two companies
For the Ambre Solaire brand, the company patented an ultra-powerful, anti-
UVA ingredient, Mexoril SX
It kept abreast of the changing nature of the sun cream market - away from
bronzing to protection
The company was convinced it could revive Helena Rubinstein while
benefiting from its attractive stable of brands
The brand, along with Estée Lauder, was one of the Grande Dames who
dominated the early cosmetics industry
The US arm of Helena Rubinstein’s company grossed $22 million a year
By 1972, the company was sold out to Colgate-Palmolive for $146
million
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12. In 1983, Helena Rubinstein Inc.’s Japanese and South American business
units were bought
By 1984, 45% of the main business had been purchased
Come 1986, the high-end Lancôme launched the market’s first anti-ageing
cream, Niosôme
In 1988, the company gained full control of the brand and business they had
long coveted (Helena Rubinstein Inc.) and L’Oréal became the largest
cosmetics company in the world
It was making a profit of over a billion francs a year
It made Madame Liliane, the largest individual shareholder, the richest
woman in France.
In 1988, a 42-year-old, Welsh-born L’Oréal lifer, Lindsay Owen-Jones
became the company’s third CEO. Owen-Jones’ governance would make
Liliane the richest woman in the world.
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13. In 1912, L’Oreal started selling their products in Holland, Italy and Austria
In 1922, they opened an agency in Berlin but failed to prosper
From 1936-1937, company subsidiaries were established in Italy, Belgium,
Denmark, UK, Algeria and Argentina
In 1953, using a complex ownership arrangement, Cosmair was established
as the sole US licensee for L’Oréal products
Most of the action was in mainstream cosmetics (market that grew at 10% a
year throughout the 1950s and 1960s)
It was handled by Jacques Corrèze (slowly began to gain distribution for a
select few L’Oréal products)
By the mid 1970’s, they were busy gaining foothold in Uruguay, Peru,
Algeria, Mexico, Canada, Japan, Australia, New Zealand and Hong Kong
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14. By 1976, a joint venture was set up: L’Oreal with the Soviet chemical
company, Mosbytchim, to gain a toehold into the Soviet Union
The company was generating an annual turnover of about $350 million
By 1984, Cosmair doubled its size and acquired Warner Cosmetics from
Warner Communications, with the help of Nestle
In 1985, Biotherm was launched into the US market to add further impetus
In 1989, Plénitude was launched with a $35 million advertising blitz
The success of Giorgio Armani men’s fragrance, Helena Rubinstein’s brand
gave Cosmair another step change in the size of its US and global operation
In 1990, L’Oréal ranked second only to Unilever due to the acquisition of
Armani and Ralph Lauren brand franchises
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15. The year after, L’Oréal was turning over $1 billion in sales
They were also dubbed as the sixth largest marketer of cosmetics in the
United States
It had 3,600 employees in a company laboratory located in Clark, New Jersey
In 1994, L’Oréal became the first foreign company to obtain authorization
from the Indian government to establish a 100% owned subsidiary
By 1996, the company had acquired the mass-market makeup giant,
Maybelline.
This propelled L’Oréal into the number two slot in US cosmetics, behind
Proctor & Gamble
They distributed the product as a range of low-priced makeup aimed at
teenagers
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16. Come 1997, L’Oréal China was formed as part of a multi-divisional Asian
zone structure
By 1998, Maybelline brand was launched to spearhead their charge in China.
Soft Sheen, leader in ethnic hair care, was also acquired in the US
By 2000, Carson was acquired, a leading beauty products business, aimed at
the African American sector
L’Oréal transformed its position with the acquisition of the sector’s leading
brand, Matrix Essentials, followed by Kiehl’s
In 2001, L’Oréal acquired a 35% share of the Japanese firm, Shu Uemura
Cosmetics, Inc.
Redken was acquired in 2003
Cosmair was purchased by L’Oréal to be a 100% owned subsidiary which
Nestlé has 70%; Liliane Bettencourt 26% and L'Oréal only 4%.
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17. L’Oréal has had such a consistent strategy over time that has resulted in very
little internal disruption due to re-organisations.
The McKinsey recommended divisional structure from 1969 was tweaked in
1985 when Parfum’s et Beauté division became unwieldy
By 2004, the structure re-arranged as follows:
Professional Products - Key brands: L’Oréal Professional; Redken; Matrix,
distributed through hair salons
Consumer Products - Key brands: L’Oréal Paris; Garnier; Maybelline;
SoftSheen-Carson, distributed through mass-market channels, including
hypermarkets, supermarkets and drug stores
Luxury Products – Key brands: Lancôme; Biotherm; Helena Rubinstein;
Giorgio Armani; Ralph Lauren; Cacharel; Kiehl’s since 1851; Shu Uemura
Active Cosmetics – Key brands: Vichy; La Roche-Posey, distributed
through pharmacies and dermatologists
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18. L’Oréal acquired Body Shop which was set up as the fifth division.
In 2009, Kérastase had been added to Professional Products; Yves Saint
Laurent and Diesel to Luxury Products and Innéov and Skinceuticals were
added to Active Cosmetics
The Gasparal Holding Company, which had been set up to facilitate the
selling of family shares to Nestlé, was merged with L’Oréal to create a more
normalized shareholding arrangement
Nestlé’s 49% stake in Gasparal became a 26.4% direct holding in L’Oréal, with
Liliane Bettencourt, taking 27.5%
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19. 1995
L’Oréal reached an annual turnover of over 8 billion Euros
Sales were significantly boosted by the 1990 launch of Lancôme’s Trésor, the world’s
best-selling perfume
1996
Garnier Fructus was launched, offering a range of affordable hair products
Acqua di Gio, the world’s best-selling men’s fragrance, was likewise launched
Merger between their 57%-owned Synthélabo pharma unit and Elf Aquitaine’s Sanofi
2001
L’Oréal sold its stakes in Lanvin and Marie Claire
L’Oréal bought Revlon’s Colorama make-up brand
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20. 2003
L’Oréal announced its 19th consecutive year of double-digit growth in
operating profits
Sales reached14.5 billion euros
2004
3.6% sales increase, primarily driven by a sluggish European market which
accounted for half the company’s sales
Launch of L’Oréal’s ReFinish, Kérastase’s Réflection and Innéov Hair Mass
Growth on the Professional Products (up 7.6% like-for-like) and Active
Cosmetics (up 165% like-for-like).
Shift in consumer spending patterns between price bands
L’Oréal opened stores for Lancôme and Biotherm
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21. U.S. Growth was still building sales (up 8.1% like-for-like to break the $4
billion barrier) and share in the largest cosmetics market in the world
Sales in Asia grew 17% (Sales in China almost doubled through organic
growth), while in Eastern Europe by 29% (Vichy, up 37% in Eastern Europe,
and had become Russia’s leading skincare brand and was launched in India
in the year)
2005
The sales increase almost doubled to 6.5%
Sales in North America, grew by 8.3% after launching Garnier Fructus
The first year in which two significant shifts in the business crossed key
thresholds: No longer a Western European-dominated company and no
longer a haircare-dominated company
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22. R&D labs continued to fuel product innovation with 2,900 researchers.
Invested 496 million euros, registering a staggering 529 patents (70 of them
on packaging developments)
Put increased emphasis on men:
In 1990, 4% of European men used a skincare product and will increased
to 20% by 2003.
In Japan, 30% of men under 30 were skincare users and over 80% in
South Korea
Vichy had been ahead of the game
Launched Basic Homme in 1986
L’Oréal Men Expert was launched into mass-market channels
Shu Uemura brand was launched on the US West Coast
Matrix was expanding from America into markets such as Brazil, India, China
and Eastern Europe
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23. 2006
Fourth L’Oréal CEO: Jean-Paul Agon announced some tweaks to their
strategy
Invested on a new product, Age Recharge by Kérastase, with a budget of 533
million euros.
The product contains Pro-Xylane, a revolutionary anti-ageing compound for
mature skin made using green technology which was being sold on
Seniors/older people
Lancôme, Vichy and La Roche-Posay, all launched products containing Pro-
Xylane
Acquiring the Body Shop during the year, marked a new direction
They opened its first store in India and began online shopping in Germany
Signed license with Diesel
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24. In the Active Cosmetics division, L’Oréal acquired Sanflore
The global market share increased from 15% to 15.6%
2007
Sales increased by over 8% to over 17 billion euros
Every division grew like-for-like by at least 7.5%
Business segment perfumes and skincare both grew by double digits
Both Western Europe and North America grew a respectable 4%
Signed an agreement with Light BioScience
US Professional Products division was strengthened with three acquisitions:
Luxury haircare brand, PureOlogy, and two regional salon distributors, Beauty
Alliance and Maly’s West
The Body Shop delivered a healthy 5.7% like-for-like growth
Russia delivered the highest absolute sales growth of any country
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25. Brazil and China were already top five world markets for cosmetics
L’Oréal increased its focus on what it called the “Next 12” countries
Sales went up in Argentina by 37%, Columbia 27%, Czech Republic, Dubai,
Indonesia by 21%, Philippines and Poland 16%, South Africa and Thailand
22%, Turkey, Ukraine (already the third-largest Eastern European subsidiary,
after only three years in existence) and Vietnam, where a subsidiary was
established.
2008
Advertising and promotional spends were maintained
Third-largest advertiser in the world
Increased share of voice
Research and development budget was increased by nearly 4%
Increased the department employee count by 6%
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26. Selling, and general and administrative costs came down as part of a policy
of “permanent restructuring”
Acquired the following: Yves Saint Laurent Beauté, Boucheron, Stella
McCartney, Zegna, Roger & Gallet and Oscar de la Renta
Strengthened its American route to market and had acquired Columbia
Beauty Supply, a third salon distributor
2009
A sales decline of 0.4%, given a heavy influence by retail inventory reduction
on a massive scale
The Body Shop held steady
Dermatology JV grew by over 10%
Action was taken in the poorly performing regions and sectors
Lower-priced Garnier Essentials range priced at under 5 euros helped the
brand grow 26
27. Luxury Products division introduced small format perfume bottles and entry-level-
priced skincare products
Kiehl’s was promoted to pillar brand status
Total sales growth, up by 28%
Yves Saint Laurent brand grew by 17% in the US
Notable year for making official that it’s primary goal was to reorient the
company decisively towards developing and emerging markets
The company set the goal of recruiting an extra billion consumers
Two new strategic changes to facilitate this shift:
Further ramping up of R&D capabilities and investment
Transformation of company culture and structures
A new product was developed, the Innovative Renewal Lash Serum
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28. 2010
Sales were up a very impressive 11.6% to just under 20 billion euros
Global retail monitoring calculated theirs at $24 billion
Efficiency measures had driven the operating profit margin in New Markets
up to 16.9%
Consolidated its three Asian research centres into a new Asian division of
R&D
Increase the focus on products relevant for Asian skin and hair needs
Professional Products grew by 4%, having added 35,000 salons
Luxury Products growing by 7% due to the growth of Génifique, Kiehl’s,
Yves Saint Laurent and Lancôme
Maybelline was spearheading the drive exemplified by Falsies Mascara and
became the best-selling mascara in North America and Western Europe
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29. First factory in Russia opened its doors, to service the countries of the old
Soviet Union
Essie nail care brand was purchased by the North American unit
2011
Sales breached the $20 billion Euros mark
Sales in New Markets came within 20 million euros
Luxury products grew by 7.7%
Best-performance of the cosmetics divisions
Lancôme Visionnaire became the first ever-fundamental skin corrector on the
market
Acquired Clarisonic, the market leader in sonic skincare technology
The Body Shop finally showed like-for-like growth just over 4% with around
16 online stores
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30. Competitors can easily predict what the company will do, but it is extremely
difficult to pre-empt them, copy them or stop them from doing it
Built a unique business model with a well-entrenched company culture
Their superior research function has enabled them to grow and develop
virtually every brand they have acquired
Commitment to the centrality of core research into skin and hair has been
passionate, prolonged and ongoing
By focusing their research into skin and hair, rather than any specific
production technologies, their research has always been solution neutral
L’Oréal is unbeatable at their business
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31. Two factors combined for longer timescales:
Consistency of management
o Has had just four CEO’s in a century
o Keeping it in the family – both personal and corporate – became a
key part of the company’s future success
Consistency of ownership
150 years of L’Oréal service
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32. The combination of the following has led to consistent success over a long
period of time
Scientific Capabilities
Acquisition Strategy
Regional Expansion
Nestlé buying L’Oréal outright would be deciding factor in 2014
Restrictions on either Nestlé or the Bettencourt family selling to outside
parties are lifted
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