Proposal for the MIT Climate CoLab (a project of MIT Center of Collective Intelligence) "Materials Matters" challenge seeking "novel and well thought-out ideas on how to engage industries, designers, product creators and the public in valuing, demanding and adopting lower impact materials" by a team of four graduate students of Parsons' Strategic Design and Management program. The Challenge: Fabrics and textiles impact our climate -- a lot. How can we spark a materials revolution by rethinking how we value and use them?

1. WE MADE THIS
Illuminating the People, Processes, and Materials Behind a Product to
Strengthen the Consumer-Maker Relationship.
Indiana Baltodano | Gayatri Mohan | Thijs Schippers | Yushi Li

2. 8
Timo was an incredible partner,
for the knowledge he generously
shared with us. The sources he
pointed us to and his prototyping
feedback were at the very core of what
led us to our proposed solution.
A N D R E W
R O B I N S O N
A S S T. P R O F E S S O R
P A R S O N S
―
TIMO
RISSANEN
A S S T. P R O F E S S O R
P A R S O N S
―
A M M A R
B E L A L
P A R T T I M E L E C T U R E R
P A R S O N S
―
THANKING
Andrew has provided immense
support in continuously challenging
assumptions and pointing out
potentially interesting directions for us
to explore. His network of experts in a
variety of fields greatly helped get our idea
off the ground.
Ammar’s research in the fashion
design field and his experience and
in the garment industry in Pakistant
made him an amazing source of insight.
He significantly helped us understand the
perspective of the supply-side players to
achieve a more holistic solution.

3. 9
The insights we gained from
Nicole helped us develop a
realistic solution fit for a practicing
designer invested in using a
sustainable and ethical supply chain.
NICOLE
LENZEN
D E S I G N E R A N D
C O N S U L TA N T
―
N I B R A S
I S L A M
M & A C O N S U L TA N T
P A R T H E N O N - E Y
―
TA R A
S T J A M E S
D E S I G N E R
S T U D Y N Y
―
Nibras’ family has been in the
garment industry in Bangladesh
for decades. The intimate industry
knowledge he shared with us aided our
understanding of the supply-side system,
particularly that of the realities of factory
owners in Bangladesh and the functions of
buying agencies.
Tara’s thought leadership and
efforts to advance sustainability in
the field of fashion through her own
brand, Study NY, served as inspiration
and guidance as to the role individual
designers can play in the greater movement
of sustainable fashion.

5. 11
GLOSSARY OF
DEFINITIONS
C O G N I T I V E M A P
Cognitive Maps are visual representations of mental processes, where statements are combined with ideas and
relationships to sense, store and decode information.
B U S I N E S S O R I G A M I
A Business Origami is a miniature of a system and the interactions within it. It serves as a tool to create a shared
understanding of that system.
B E T T E R M E T H O D S / P R O C E S S E S
For the purposes of our project, better methods and processes are defined as methods and processes that have a
lower environmental and social impact.
S U P P L Y - S I D E G O V E R N M E N T
All governmental bodies whose policies directly affect the businesses in the supply-chain.
D E M A N D - S I D E G O V E R N M E N T
All governmental bodies whose policies directly affect the consumer.

6. 1 2
WHAT WE WILL
COVER
1 7
O N Y O U R M A R K S . . .
2 1
D I V I N G I N T O I T
3 4
W A R M U P
3 6
S E T T I N G A N A I M
4 0
T H E B A L L ' S I N E V E R Y O N E ' S C O U R T
/ / I N T R O D U C T I O N
/ / R E S E A R C H M E T H O D O L O G Y
/ / I D E AT I O N E X E R C I S E S
/ / F R A M I N G T H E D E S I G N C H A L L E N G E
/ / M U L T I - S TA K E H O L D E R E C O S Y S T E M

7. 1 3
4 3
M E E T T H E P L A Y E R S
4 5
T H E R U N U P
5 8
I N T H E E N D Z O N E
6 9
P A S S I N G T H E B AT O N
7 0
A B O U T T H E T E A M
7 2
B I B L I O G R A P H Y
/ / P E R S O N A E
/ / P R O T O T Y P I N G I N I T I A L I D E A S
/ / I T E R AT I N G & F I N A L C O N C E P T
/ / C O N S I D E R AT I O N S & N E X T S T E P S

9. 1 5
P E R S O N A L C O N N E C T I O N S
―
I never thought too much about where my food was
coming from. I tried not to be too wasteful, but didn't
think twice about throwing away a slightly browned
apple.
That changed last year when I signed up for my
neighborhood farm share. I now pick up a stunning
variety of fresh fruit, vegetables, and eggs delivered to
my neighborhood from farms all around New York state.
Now, I feel a heavy sense of guilt when I can't finish my
food before it goes bad. What changed?
Personally, seeing the dirt on my imperfectly shaped
produce made me aware of the amount of human effort
and natural resources represented by a single apple.
Throwing away all that effort and those resources for
any reason feels terribly selfish and irresponsible.
I was sharing this experience with my team mates when
we realized that it takes such deeply personal and
emotional moments to change consumer behavior. What
could we do to trigger such a moment for consumers in
the apparel industry? This formed the initial foundation
for our project.
Gayatri Mohan

11. 1 7
H O W C A N W E S P A R K A M AT E R I A L S
R E V O L U T I O N B Y R E T H I N K I N G H O W
W E V A L U E A N D U S E T H E M ?
ON YOUR MARKS...
We set out to answer this question by first examining
how the global apparel industry is constructed today.
We identified major actors in the ecosystem, their
relationships with each other, and the challenges they
face in moving the industry towards a more sustainable
future.
We found an intricate network of corporate giants,
independent designers, manufacturers, artisans,
consumers, and governments struggling to balance
their interests with the urgent need to consider how
business impacts people, the global economy, and the
environment.
Consumers today have come to expect cheap products.
Most of us would not want to pay more than $40 for
a pair of jeans that may truly cost well over $100. We
might wear them for a season and toss them. The bigger
problem, however, is that we are unaware of the true cost
of our clothes, who bears that cost, and what happens
to those clothes when we get rid of them season after
season.
//INTRODUCTION

12. PROJECT BRIEF
Value
Chain
Field
Research
Literature
Review
Expert
Council
FRAMING THE DESIGN CHALLENGE
Business
Origami
Multi-stakeholder
Ecosystem
Personae
RESEARCH
EXPLORING SOLUTIONS
PROTOTYPING & ITERATING
DEVELOPING FINAL PROPOSAL
CONSIDERING NEXT STEPS
1 8

13. Research
Ideation
1 9
P R O C E S S O V E R V I E W
―
Examining the challenges of an existing system and coming up with holistic solutions is a complex, non-linear
journey. To answer the question we posed for our team, we were constantly engaged in literature reviews, industry
analyses, and expert interviews to deepen our understanding of the apparel industry, while our ideation and
iteration process continued to raise new research questions and push us closer to an informed hypothesis.

15. 2 1
EXPERT
COUNCIL
―
V A L U E C H A I N
A N A L Y S I S
―
F I E L D
R E S E A R C H
―
L I T E R AT U R E
R E V I E W
―
DIVING INTO IT
R E TA I L
E X P E R I E N C E
I N D U S T R Y
A N A L Y S I S
C A S E
S T U D I E S
C O G N I T I V E
M A P
S TA K E H O L D E R
M A P
//RESEARCH METHODOLOGY

16. We began our exploration of Nike's project brief with an analysis of their existing value chain, and the corresponding
stakeholders for each stage of the value chain. We identified key points of potential intervention further up the
chain in the pre-distribution stages, where suppliers – including farmers, factory owners, and factory workers – are
key stakeholders.
2 2
VA L U E C H A I N A N A L Y S I S
―

17. 2 3

19. K E Y L E A R N I N G S
Messaging around and investment in sustainability were
apparent in stores where brands are already committed to
embedding environmental and social sustainability in their
mission.
Only conscious consumers make it a point to inquire about
the supply chain behind a product and, as a result, store
associates for the most part are required to know the bare
minimum about products' supply chain.
2 5
F I E L D R E S E A R C H
―
With a solid understanding of a typical supply chain in the industry, we conducted observational field research to
examine how different brands invest in aspects of sustainability in their retail locations. We visited 10 different
brands' retail locations to document details like their product lines, shelving, interior design and store layout,
signage, and customer service.

20. WHAT ARE KEY INDUSTRY
PLAYERS CURRENTLY DOING
FOR SUSTAINABILITY IN
FASHION?
WHAT DOES INDUSTRY-WIDE
COLLABORATION LOOK LIKE
TODAY?
2 6
L I T E R AT U R E R E V I E W
―
In order to better understand our current problem landscape, we conducted in-depth analysis of the apparel
manufacturing industry as it is set up today.
I N D U S T R Y
A N A L Y S I S

21. K E Y L E A R N I N G S
2 7
Acknowledging sustainability as an industry-wide
challenge that all brands have to (or will have to) address,
we set out to investigate how certain organizations are
already tackling sustainability, what sorts of initiatives are
in place, and who is pioneering these efforts.
We found initiatives ranging from cleaning up
plastic waste from oceans, using waste to make
shoes, standardizing sustainability policies across
manufacturers, to investing in research and
implementation of new technologies, incorporating more
sustainable materials in their garments, and pledges to
completely eliminate toxic chemicals from the supply
chain.
The industry players leading sustainability initiatives
include corporate giants like Kering, parent company of
luxury brands like Gucci, Balenciaga, Alexander McQueen,
and others; Inditex, owner of Zara and Massimo Dutti;
H&M and small designer brands like Study NY that use
their business as a means to pursue sustainability goals.
Organizations like the Sustainable Apparel Coalition are
working to create a common language such as the Higg
Index, a standardized measurement tool to asses supply-
chain operations, and to facilitate the kind of industry
collaboration necessary to drive systemic change.
Currently there are more initiatives that work to reduce the
symptoms but not cure the illness of unsustainability.
Lasting and impactful change can only be accomplished
through industry-wide collaboration.
Companies that proactively embrace sustainability versus
react to unsustainability will be more profitable long-term.

22. WHAT TRIGGERED A SHIFT IN
CONSUMER BEHAVIOR IN
OTHER INDUSTRIES?
HOW DID THEY ENACT POLICY
LEVEL CHANGE?
2 8
L I T E R AT U R E R E V I E W
―
We then compared the apparel industry's sustainability trajectory to that of other industries, such as food, tobacco,
automobile, and public health to see how they enacted large-scale, policy and behavioral change.
C A S E
S T U D I E S

23. K E Y L E A R N I N G S
2 9
Enacting regulatory and behavioral change in the face of
strong industry opposition is challenging, yet possible,
as illustrated by the case of the tobacco industry. Strong
public education and carefully written smoke-free bylaws
helped effectively overcome intense pressure from
tobacco giants on governments to maintain legislation in
their favor.
We specifically studied the case of British Columbia,
Canada, and how they successfully used public health
campaigns driven by medical experts and advocates
to foster support for smokefree laws. They ultimately
achieved 100% smokefree laws in public spaces in spite of
immense opposition from tobacco companies.
In the automotive domain, we have also seen quite a
change in consumer behavior in the last fifteen years. The
rise of Toyota Prius and Tesla is an example of the newly
sparked interest in electrically powered cars, in an industry
where gasoline has been the standard for more than 80
years. We looked into what might have brought about
this change, and found that, in addition to technological
advancements making it much more feasible, it was also
the result of the 'cool-factor' the products evoked: the
consumer was already hooked to these cars because of
their aesthetic and performance appeal; environmental
friendliness happened to be a nice bonus.
We also examined the organic movement in the food
industry to glean insights on how a niche market can
become mainstream over time. In the 1970s, organic food
initially appealed to a small market and was only available
at a few specialized stores. Now mass retailers like
Walmart, Costco, and Target sell organic food in response
to consumer demands stemming from public educational
campaigns.
We envision a similar trajectory for sustainable fashion,
with awareness and demand for sustainable products
growing to the point where it reaches mainstream
consumers and retailers, and ultimately becomes the
default purchasing option.
Public education is an essential component of making
economic, social, and environmental sustainability
mainstream.
Sustainable options need not necessarily be less
aesthetically, stylistically, or technically appealing to the
masses.
Strong and proactive government support in the form of
experts, public advocates, and outspoken champions is
at the core of translating a consumer behavioral shift to a
policy-level change.

24. Most
other mass
goods are
automated.
w
m
Did
it spark
something?
E X P E R T C O U N C I L
―
Although our industry and case study analyses were
important sources of research, we reached out to
experts in the field for deeper and more current insights
into the most urgent challenges facing suppliers,
designers, artisans, corporations, and governments
around the world.
We first interviewed Assistant Professor of Fashion
Design, Timo Rissanen, at Parsons. His professional
experience and academic research into the fashion
industry's challenges formed the basis for this
C O G N I T I V E M A P, where we visually trace facts,
opinions, and ideas he shared with us (in yellow),
alongside our own interpretations of the conversation
(in gray).
Some components
of Nike products
are manufactured
automatically.
G-Star Raw initiative to
remove ocean plastic is
mainly just marketing.
Reducing
unsustainability is not
the same as creating
sustainability.
People forget that
almost all garments are
made by hand.
People
how much
cost; the pr
accurat
Some business models
actually build long
term relationships with
artisans, others are just
marketing.
It's still a kind of
imperialism.
Actual communities
in India and China have
been destroyed because
of cheap stuff.

25. Show
day-to-day
operations.
Why
not expose
more?
How
do you
do this from
afar?
Credit
culture,
living beyond
our means
Should
everything
be affordable
by everyone?
Would
we buy as
much if we
knew?
don't know
h things really
rice tag isn't an
te measure.
Big disasters like Rana
Plaza don't really affect
the brand or the consumer
long term.
Compare a fast
fashion item made in
NYC to one made in the
original country, there
will be a huge price
difference for similar
garments.
On average, Americans
buy 68 garments and 7
pairs of shoes a year.
I have a colleague who
believes a decent pair of
jeans should cost no less
than $250.
It is important to
get people personally
invested to create change
in people's values.
Research is being done
on chemicals that get
absorbed into the skin
through clothing.
Consumers have to take
up responsibility.
People don't care about
GMO in cotton as much as
in food.
People don't know
the human cost of GMO
cotton (Indian farmer
suicides).

27. 3 3
VA L U E O F C R A F T
―
How do women from three distinct cultural and economic
contexts value their own time and craft?
Tara St James, designer and owner of Study NY,
conducted an experiment to answer this question. She
paid women in Afghanistan, Peru, and Queens, NY $24
and asked them to work for what they thought was an
appropriate number of hours. These women were all
excellent embroiderers who learned their craft from their
grandmothers, and were able to work at similar speeds.
Yet, there was a wide range in the monetary value each of
them attached to their time and work.
The women in Afghanistan and Peru worked 17 hours and
15 hours respectively, while the woman in Queens worked
2 hours.
Cost-of-living aside, what is shaping these disparate
notions of value for the same craft? Should we as
consumers ascribe value differently for high-quality
artisanal work?

28. 3 4
WARM UP
Armed with key learnings from our initial research phase,
we conducted ideation exercises to brainstorm blue-
sky solutions to the apparel industry's supply chain and
sustainability challenges. This unrestricted exploration
of potential solutions helped us better define our precise
design challenge.
We came up with a broad range of solutions, from
concepts modeled on Charlie and the Chocolate
Factory's 'Golden Ticket,' in this case, for consumers to
visit the factories and workers that make their garments
by hand; to platforms to organize mass boycotts for
unsustainable practices.
Once we filled up our page with ideas for potential
solutions, we categorized them into buckets like 'Civic
Activisim,' 'Point of Purchase,' and 'Legislation,' among
others.
Finally, we ranked our ideas in order of most feasible to
least feasible, which then formed the basis for the next
phase of our ideation exercises.
//IDEATION EXERCISES

29. 3 5
In this stage, we reframed the most powerful themes
from our ideation exercises into 'How Might We'
questions.
H O W M I G H T W E F A C I L I T A T E H I G H E R P R I C I N G
F O R G A R M E N T S ?
H O W M I G H T W E P R O V I D E C O N S U M E R S W I T H
T O O L S T O U N I T E A N D A C T ?
H O W M I G H T W E S H I F T T H E C O N S U M E R ' S
N O T I O N O F C O S T F R O M T H E C U R R E N T
A R T I F I C A L L Y L O W O N E T O A M O R E
R E A L I S T I C O N E ?
These questions became the starting point of our second
ideation exercise. As we continued to ideate, we quickly
realized that all our potential solutions tackled only one
aspect of the larger problem. In reality, no single player
in the industry – supplier, brand, designer or consumer
– can be held responsible for its challenges. Rather,
unsustainability in the fashion industry is a failure of the
entire system.

30. 3 6
SETTING AN AIM
To dig deeper into this systemic problem, we interviewed
Ammar Belal, part-time lecturer at Parsons, with his
own design practice and personal ties to the garment
manufacturing industry in Pakistan.
We drew out a B U S I N E S S O R I G A M I guided by his
personal experience and insights. We mapped the
interactions and leverage points among the system’s key
stakeholders, which we defined as the designer, brand,
consumer, supplier/manufacturer, buying house, and
government. To acknowledge the nuances within this
system, we further broke government down into what
we call the D E M A N D - S I D E G O V E R N M E N T and the
S U P P L Y - S I D E G O V E R N M E N T. This intricate map
of the relationships, interactions, and power dynamics
between the stakeholders strengthened the conclusion
from our ideation exercises that sustainability in the
industry is, in fact, a multi-stakeholder responsibility.
The business success of designers and brands is
contingent on their ability to effectively meet consumer
needs and demands. Consumer demands – influenced
by fast fashion, a heavily promotional retail environment,
and ill-informed notions of cost – can be summarized
as the desire to buy more for a lower price. In order to
compete in this environment, brands aim to produce at
the lowest cost possible to maximize their margins and,
as a result, exert downward pressure on what factory
owners can charge for their work.
Factory owners are then stuck in corruption-laden bidding
wars that force them to accept orders at a price and
timeframe that cannot be fulfilled sustainably. Obliged
to charge unrealistically low prices to win the business
leaves factory owners poorly equipped to implement and
maintain ethical practices while remaining financially
afloat.
To further muddle the problem, factory owners may even
resort to outsourcing work to uncertified or unregulated
contractors in order to meet the short time frames often
demanded by brands. Low prices, tight timelines, and
an unregulated system of contractors compounded
by corporate incentives to maximize profits produce a
hostile environment for ethical practices.
Moreover, the average factory owner operating on
current prices likely does not have the cash flow
available to invest in sustainable practices such as clean
production and living wages. These factors shape a
troublesome conflict of interest between reaping profits
and building a sustainable business.
//FRAMING THE DESIGN CHALLENGE

31. DESIGNER CONSUMER BRAND
DESIGNER
Point of Intervention
DEMAND-SIDE
GOVERNMENT
SUPPLY-SIDE GOVERNMENT
BUYING
HOUSE
SUPPLIER /
MANUFACTURER
Activist/Expert
Existing Relationship
Potential Trajectory for Change
Bidding wars
to drive down
price; suppliers
outbid each
other to win
business
Higher retail price ≠
higher pay for supplier

32. 3 8
HOW CAN WE CREATE AN ECOSYSTEM IN WHICH THE
INCENTIVE STRUCTURE FOR ALL STAKEHOLDERS SUPPORTS
SUSTAINABLE PRODUCTION, AND MAKES SUSTAINABILITY
ACCESSIBLE TO ALL PARTIES?
SETTING AN AIM
//FRAMING THE DESIGN CHALLENGE

33. WHAT CAN WE DO IN THE NEXT TWO YEARS TO SPUR
CONSUMER DEMAND FOR ETHICALLY AND SUSTAINABLY
MANUFACTURED PRODUCTS?
HOW CAN WE MAKE CONSUMERS CARE ABOUT THE PEOPLE,
PROCESSES AND MATERIALS BEHIND A PRODUCT?
3 9

34. CONSUMER
GOV´T
BRAND
SUPPLIER
//MULTI-STAKEHOLDER ECOSYSTEM
4 0
THE BALL'S IN
EVERYONE'S COURT
To build on our understanding of the flawed system we mapped out in our B U S I N E S S O R I G A M I , we tried to
illustrate exactly how each stakeholder plays their part in the sustainable future of the industry.
After several iterations, we developed a four-part framework including the Consumer, Brand, Government, and
Supplier.

35. C O N S U M E R
The Consumer is defined as anyone who buys a new
garment. Within this segment, we identified two distinct
categories: the Activist Consumer who already buys the
B E T T E R garment, and the Mainstream Consumer who
currently does not pay attention to the environmental or
social impact of garments (he/she only buys based on
performance, aesthetics, and price-point).
B R A N D
The Brand is defined as a clothing company of any size.
This includes mass market brands like Nike, Adidas, Zara,
and H&M, as well as smaller designer brands. As with
the Consumer, we distinguished two types of Brands
present in the industry today: Activist Brands for whom
B E T T E R suppliers are already part of the company's
core operations (Patagonia, Stella McCartney), and other
brands for whom that is not yet the case.
G O V E R N M E N T
The Government is defined as a governing body on
either the demand- or supply-side, whose policies
affect the apparel industry. Again, we identified two
types of governments in the current landscape: Activist
Governments that have policies or initiatives already in
place to support the cause, and other governments that
are not yet invested in facilitating this change.
S U P P L I E R
The Supplier is defined as any party involved in the
production/manufacturing process of garments. Included
here are all players from the farm to the logistics partner
delivering the product to the consumer, as well as yarn
manufacturers, dyers, spinners, embroiderers, etc. They
may range in size from an individual to a set-up of 20,000
employees. Once again, Activist Suppliers are defined
as those who already employ sustainanable practices as
compared to those who do not.
4 1

37. 4 3
MEET THE PLAYERS
Once we established our multi-stakeholder ecosystem and the relationships between key players within the
ecosystem, we moved on to building personae that would ground the development of our solution in the real,
tangible needs of people today.
We chose to focus on four distinct persona segments, including the conscious consumer, the indifferent consumer,
the factory owner, and the resident of the extended community in which a garment factory may be located.
Building these personae also served as a constant reminder that the system we are designing for involves multiple
interests, needs, and priorities.
//PERSONAE

38. Lack of transparency, access to
honest information on consumer
products
The challenge and time it takes
to make informed choices
FRUSTRATIONS
GOALS
Wants the tools to align her
purchases with her principles
4 4
Sarah lives with her
fiance and 5-year-old
Jack Russell Terrier. She
has a very demanding
work schedule and
travels often to meet
clients. Yet, she always
finds time for family,
friends and herself.
She stays active and
healthy with a regular
yoga practice and
running routine. She
considers herself health-
and environmentally
conscious, so makes sure
to keep herself informed.
She reads all labels
and makes very careful
purchasing decisions.
Although she is cognizant
of the consequences of
modern consumption
patterns, she knows she
is not an expert. Yet, she
wishes to vote with her
wallet by aligning with
ethical brands.
I O F T E N F E E L
P O W E R L E S S W H E N
I T C O M E S T O M A K I N G
E T H I C A L P U R C H A S E S .
Age: 28
Profession: Consultant at PWC
Location: New York
Education: BS Economics (NYU), MBA (Columbia)
Sarah, The Conscious Consumer
MEET THE PLAYERS
//PERSONAE

39. Personally distant from urgent
global issues because of a
feeling that she alone cannot
accomplish anything
impactful
FRUSTRATIONS
GOALS
Wants to learn more about
sustainable consumption,
without a huge personal
sacrifice on her fashion choices
I U N D E R S TA N D M Y
D E C I S I O N S H A V E A
L A R G E R I M P A C T B U T
I ’ M U N S U R E W H AT T O
D O A B O U T I T.
4 5
Maria has lived all her life
in Athens, except for four
years of college in the
US. She is well traveled
within Europe, and is into
all the latest fashion and
trends. She sometimes
like to wear clothing a
little against the grain,
and enjoys shopping
for edgy, different items.
As a dancer, she
maintains a healthy
lifestyle with a regular
exercise routine of yoga
and interval training at
the gym.
Maria has a general sense
of global sustainability
issues, but doesn’t
have the appropriate
vocabulary to talk
about it. However, she
has a passionate and
empathetic personality,
and will strongly support
a cause she believes in.
Age: 25
Profession: Dancer and marketer at a bank
Location: Athens, Greece
Education: BA Dance (Wellesley College)
Maria, The Indifferent Consumer

40. Believes the West to be at the
root of problems in the industry
Fears losing his business in 10
years if he wants to keep ethical
practices
FRUSTRATIONS
GOALS
Wants his son to take over the
business one day
Wants to give workers a good
quality of life and minimize eco
impact
Farhan’s factory in the
south of Dhaka produces
sports t-shirts for Nike.
He has been involved in
the business from a
young age, and recently
inherited it from his
father, who had inherited
it from his own father.
He values his workers and
already pays them 120%
above minimum wage,
a lot more than other
factory owners pay in the
region. This has, however,
already resulted in some
loss of business for him.
He is skeptical of
transparent supply chains
as he is used to working
in a traditional opaque
industry.
I ’ D L O V E T O I M P R O V E
M Y F A C T O R Y
C O N D I T I O N S , B U T I ’ M
A F R A I D O F L O S I N G
B U S I N E S S T O M Y
C O M P E T I T O R S .
Age: 42
Profession: Factory Owner
Location: Dhaka, Bangladesh
4 6
Farhan, 3rd Generation Factory Owner
MEET THE PLAYERS
//PERSONAE

41. Harsh pollutants from the nearby
factory are making her anxious
about her pregnancy
FRUSTRATIONS
GOALS
Wants to understand the role of
the factory in the
community
I ’ M C O N C E R N E D
A B O U T M Y F A M I L Y ’ S
H E A L T H B U T D O N ’ T
H A V E T H E
A P P R O P R I AT E
C H A N N E L T O L E A R N
M O R E .
Nana was born and raised
in Yunnan, China. After
college, she worked as a
high school teacher for a
brief time before getting
married and moving to
Putian with her husband.
They live five miles from a
Nike contract factory for
footwear.
She recently found out
she is pregnant and quit
her job with plans to
move back to Yunnan
during her pregnancy. Her
parents are concerned
about the overwhelming
pollution from the factory
in
Putian.
Her husband, however, is
not in favor of moving yet,
so she will have to keep
traveling between her
home in Putian and her
parents’ home in Yunnan.
Age: 34
Profession: Homemaker
Location: Putian, China
Education: BA from a local college in Beijing
Nana, Resident of Putian, China
4 7

42. Our first phase of prototyping included four distinct strategies targeted at one or more of our defined persona
segments.
THE RUN UP
//PROTOTYPING INITIAL IDEAS

45. 5 1
B E H I N D T H E C H E F ' S C O U N T E R
―
I invite you to think about the last time you enjoyed a dish
at a restaurant. What did you think about as you savored
your meal? What if you thought about everyone involved
and everything that had to be done in order to make the
delicious and artfully plated meal you were enjoying?
What if I told you that a chef spent countless hours
developing the recipe using the culinary skills she
has spent years mastering, that at least five cooks
worked tirelessly to ensure the dish was executed
as close to perfection as possible, and that the
waiter that brought you the dish dedicated his time
to understanding the menu and providing the most
thoughtful recommendations for the best possible dining
experience?
What if I told you the dish you enjoyed demanded almost
perfect timing and coordination among the entire
restaurant staff? What if you saw this entire process and
the people behind it? What if you knew their names and
stories? Would a first hand look at the amount of time,
effort, and skill make you appreciate it more? I dare to
say it would.
Indiana Baltodano

46. HOW MIGHT WE BRIDGE THE PHYSICAL AND EMOTIONAL GAP
BETWEEN CONSUMERS AND SUPPLIERS?
5 2
THE RUN UP
//PROTOTYPING INITIAL IDEAS

47. In order to improve consumer notions of value for their garments, we ideated ways to humanize and communicate
the journey of a product to consumers at point-of-purchase. We built prototypes of labels with information, in
various formats, about the garment's journey through the supply chain. In one version, we simply provided a
detailed story of where the garment was made. In another version, we included the fingerprints of the workers
associated with the garment. In our more tech-savvy version, we provided a live QR code for people to scan for
information about the garment's materials, maker and journey around the world.
5 3
B U I L D I N G C O N S U M E R
AW A R E N E S S

48. HOW MIGHT WE CREATE A ROBUST NETWORK OF SUPPLIERS
SUCH THAT SUSTAINABLE MANUFACTURING BECOMES
ACCESSIBLE, FEASIBLE, AND ULTIMATELY THE DEFAULT
OPTION FOR BRANDS?
5 4
THE RUN UP
//PROTOTYPING INITIAL IDEAS

49. To address the relationship between brands/designers and suppliers, we prototyped a web and mobile platform
through which designers may search for suppliers and place bids for orders based on a comprehensive criteria,
such as toxic emission levels, wages, water consumption, and factory conditions.
To enhance collaboration and transparency, designers would also be able to upload profiles of sustainable suppliers
they have worked with in the past, so that other designers may connect with them as well. Our long term vision was
to ultimately generate increasing demand for suppliers investing in sustainable practices, and making it easier for
them to connect with designers looking for such standards in their business.
5 5
S T R E N G T H E N I N G A C T I V I S T
S U P P L I E R S A N D B R A N D S

50. HOW MIGHT WE ENHANCE THE SENSE OF COMMUNITY FOR
SUSTAINABLY-MINDED CONSUMERS AND INCREASE
SHAREABILITY OF THE MOVEMENT ORGANICALLY AND
CREDIBLY?
5 6
THE RUN UP
//PROTOTYPING INITIAL IDEAS

51. We prototyped a subtle symbol that could be worn by consumers purchasing sustainably manufactured products
to show solidarity with the sustainable fashion movement and spur conversations with others. People wearing our
bracelets would be the evangelists of the movement, helping spread the message and influencing others to change
their approach to apparel shopping.
5 7
P R O V I D I N G T O O L S F O R
C O N S U M E R S T O U N I T E A N D A C T

52. 5 8
Our prototyping sessions shed light on some important
questions we had to consider before settling on a final
concept.
CONSUMER CONCERNS
Not all consumers pay attention to garment labels. An
additional label with supply chain information may then
be ineffective as a communication and educational
tool. Even those consumers who do pay attention to
labels may not be sufficiently impacted by a single
label for their immediate purchase. What we did learn
from consumer interviews, however, is that they may
be more impacted by a post-purchase iitem that they
could look at in the comfort of their homes, rather than
during their shopping experience. A post-purchase
item, like the bracelet and necklace we prototyped,
also has the potential to be an ongoing conversational
and educational tool, perhaps impacting future, if not
immediate, purchasing decisions.
On the contrary, some of the consumers we interviewed
suggested that they would only read labels if they
were aware of the store's or brand's commitment to
sustainability. They would not, for example, bother to
read labels at a fast fashion store. This insight defeats
the purpose of our labels, because we originally wanted
to use the label as a tool reach out to all consumers,
regardless of brand and store type.
DESIGNER CONCERNS
We saw similarly conflicting views for the platfom
we prototyped to connect designers and suppliers
transparently. Independent designers did not seem as
comfortable as we imagined with the idea of sharing
their supply chain information. This was true to
varying degrees, depending on the kind of designer
we consulted. The practicing designer, for example,
seemed very uncomfortable with sharing information
on the suppliers she works with for particular kinds of
embroidery. Her main concern was that all independent
designers may end up with similar techniques and
patterns if they all sourced from the same suppliers.
Even though she appreciated the theory of bulk buying
and sourcing to reduce waste, she did not seem to think
it would work in practice. She also alerted us to the
possibility of intellectual property infringement if all
process, technique, and sourcing information were to be
transparent on the platform.
The researcher/academic, on the other hand, was very
enthusiastic about such extreme transparency. He
enjoyed the idea of sharing and collaborating not only
on designs, but on research, new methods, and new
connections.
How could we then balance the need for transparency
with sufficient privacy and security for designers'
intellectual property?
IN THE ENDZONE
K E Y L E A R N I N G S F R O M
P R O T O T Y P I N G
//ITERATING AND FINAL CONCEPT

53. 5 9
I T E R AT I N G T O O U R F I N A L
C O N C E P T
Although our prototype sessions revealed the platform we had initially envisioned was not the best means to
accomplish our goals, we re-centered ourselves on our key objectives to:
Create a strong network of suppliers capable of manufacturing sustainably
Facilitate the exchange of mutually healthy business between designers and suppliers by changing the bidding
dynamics to align with sustainability standards.
This led us to consolidate our separate strategies for consumers, designers, and suppliers, and pivot our concept to
that of an agency as an intermediary between designers/brands and suppliers, and support our mission to:
C R E AT E A N E C O S Y S T E M I N W H I C H I N C E N T I V E S
F O R A L L K E Y S TA K E H O L D E R S A L I G N W I T H
P R I N C I P L E S O F S U S TA I N A B I L I T Y , A N D
S U S TA I N A B L E O P T I O N S U L T I M AT E L Y B E C O M E
E Q U A L L Y A C C E S S I B L E T O B R A N D S ,
S U P P L I E R S , A N D C O N S U M E R S A L I K E .

54. 6 0
P H A S E O N E O F T H E P R O P O S A L
The first phase to our strategy is a stage focused on ‘activists’: the people who are already invested in sustainable
practices. By empowering exactly these activists, we aim to push the concept of B E T T E R clothing to gradually gain
momentum and become the default option over time.
We define the players in the Activist space as follows:
ACTIVIST CONSUMER
The Activist Consumer is defined as someone who
places importance on the sourcing of the products they
purchase.
ACTIVIST BRAND
The Activist Brand is defined as a clothing brand that
already emphasizes B E T T E R sourcing as part of their
competitive advantage, and thus communicate it as a
core value to their consumer. Examples here include
brands like Patagonia and Burton, as well as smaller
designer brands like Stella McCartney and Study NY.
ACTIVIST SUPPLIER
The Activist Supplier is defined as a corporation involved
in producing clothing with a better supply chain. Included
in this are all players from the farm to the logistics
partner delivering the product to the consumer.
ACTIVIST GOV'T INITIATIVES
Activist Government Initiatives are defined as projects
set up by supply-side governments to support the use of
BETTER methods in industry. Examples of this include
the Sikkim Organic Mission, a project through which
the state of Sikkim in India is being transformed into an
organic-farming-only state.

55. 61
ACTIVIST CONSUMER
The value for the Activist Consumer is twofold. For one,
we will offer a high level of traceability for all the product
manufacturing we are involved with, so that they have
deeper insight into the people and processes behind
their products. Furthermore, we will provide the Activist
Consumer with an opportunity to actively partake in a
larger sustainable fashion movement, offering them a
more powerful voice in the system.
ACTIVIST BRAND
The value for the Activist Brand is twofold as well. First,
they would get access to a BETTER and more transparent
supply network for a fraction of the resources it would
require them to establish and maintain in-house. In
addition, the brand would benefit from the positive brand
image generated from partaking in this movement;
ultimately translating that to positive consumer
sentiment, customer loyalty, and sales.
ACTIVIST SUPPLIER
The value for the Activist Supply has three parts, with the
first and most powerful one being the extra business our
network would generate. Another important factor would
be the guarantee of a fair negotiation process, as we are
invested in more than just the interests of one corporate
brand. Finally, suppliers would gain access to cutting
edge education and resources to further strengthen their
practices.
ACTIVIST GOV'T INITIATIVES
The value for Activist Government Initiatives would lie
in the interested Activist Brands that could provide new
business and new jobs for the people in the country or
region.
We propose to offer the following value to each of the defned customer segments:

56. 6 2
ACTIVIST CONSUMER
To offer the consumer complete transparency into
the journey of their products, we will collect raw
data (locations, businesses involved, transportation
types) about the entire production process of every
order, together with photos and stories from some
of the people working in the factories. Our consumer
prototyping illuminated that consumers would more
likely engage with additional information on their
product post-purchase in the comfort of their own
homes. Therefore, we will compile our raw data into a
full consumer-friendly story that he/she will be invited to
view through an additional label/tag on their purchase.
The label/tag will also contain metrics on exactly how
sustainably the product was manufactured. To capture
the consumer's attention, these labels/tags will contain a
set of fingerprints of the people that actually worked on
the product. A specific Consumer Storytelling business
division will be responsible for this.
To include the consumer in a larger sustainability
movement, we will generate an awareness campaign
including media outreach (editorials, advertorials), in-
store events with Actvist Brands focused on supply chain
transparency, as well as the development of our own
accessories (wearables) that would allow the consumer
to indicate their part in the movement. A dedicated
Awareness Campaign division will be responsible for this.
ACTIVIST BRAND
We will guarantee a BETTER and transparent supply
network for the brand through three different activities
under the Brand-Supplier Relations division. These
include facilitating communication between the brand
and the supply-side, making sure both parties meet
established standards through credible third-party
auditing operations. This division will also be in charge
of recommending potential suppliers that a brand could
employ for a certain order, complete with ratings for
every supplier we recommend.
ACTIVIST SUPPLIER
Business units located in the supply-side countries
will be responsible for delivering our defined value to
the Activist Supplier. One unit will be dedicated to on-
boarding suppliers already using B E T T E R practices
to expand the supply-network. Another will be centred
around the continuous improvement of the practices of
the suppliers already in the network to guarantee that
they will remain on the forefront of employing B E T T E R
practices in the industry. To maintain a healthy and
mutually beneficial relationship, this division will also
be our point-person to the supplier for any questions
or issues with the network or the business generated
through it.
ACTIVIST GOV'T INITIATIVES
At the core of our company will be a team responsible
for Initiating relationships with existing government
initiatives, as this would form the basis for our strategic
success in the supply-side country. This team will make
a case for the financial, environmental, and social impact
the potential operations could have on industry in the
country, and will be responsible for negotiating how both
parties will be involved.
We would provide the abovementioned value to each customer segment through the following business units:

57. BUSINESSMODELCANVASPHASEONE
KEYPARTNERSKEYACTIVITIESCUSTOMER
RELATIONSHIPS
CUSTOMERSEGMENTS
KEYRESOURCESCHANNELS
COSTSTRUCTUREREVENUESTREAMS
ACTIVISTCONSUMER
Traceability
Participationinabiggermovement
ACTIVISTBRAND
Strongerandmoretransparentsupplier
network
Positivebrandimage
ACTIVISTSUPPLIER
Extrabusiness
Fairnegotiationprocess
Accesstocuttingedgeeducation
ACTIVISTGOV'TINITIATIVES
Internationalbusinessinvestment
ACTIVISTCONSUMER
Makingthepeopleandprocessesbehind
theproductvisible
Buildinganawarenesscampaign
ACTIVISTBRAND
Fulfillingorders
Auditingsuppliers
Connectingthemtotherightsuppliers
ACTIVISTSUPPLIER
On-boardingnewsuppliers
Providingguidelinesandfacilitating
adoptionofsustainablepractices,
informedbyresearchforstandards
ACTIVISTGOV'TINITIATIVES
Establishingrelationships
ACTIVISTCONSUMER
Strongcommunityoflike-minded
consumers
ACTIVISTBRAND&SUPPLIER
Ongoingpersonalassistance
ACTIVISTCONSUMER
Definedassomeonewhoplaces
importanceonthesourcingofthe
productstheypurchase
ACTIVISTBRAND
Definedasaclothingbrandthatalready
emphasizesBETTERsourcingas
partoftheircompetitiveadvantage,
andthuscommunicateitasavalueto
theirconsumer.Exampleshereinclude
brandslikePatagoniaandBurton,as
wellassmallerdesigner-brandslike
StellaMcCartneyandStudyNY.
ACTIVISTSUPPLIER
Definedasacorporationinvolvedin
producingclothingwithaBETTER
supplychain.Includedinthisareall
playersfromfarmtothelogistics
partnerdeliveringtheproducttothe
consumer.
ActivistSuppliers
ExpertsandResearchers
GovernmentAgencies
ActivistGovernmentInitiatives
Lawyers
Networkofsuppliers
ITinfrastructure
Libraryforsustainablepractices
HR
Copyrightedbrand
Customerrelationshipdivisions
Activistbrandstores
Humancapital
Digitalinfrastructure
Marketing
R&D
Logistics
Manufacturing
Commissionfromactivistbrands
Subscriptionfeefromsuppliers
Fundraising
Sales(wearablesandaccessories)
VALUEPROPOSITION

58. 6 4
P H A S E T W O O F T H E P R O P O S A L
The second phase of our strategy is about the ‘frontier’: the moment when the number of consumers considering the
social and environmental impact of garments, and the number of suppliers now able to produce in a BETTER way
would make sustainable sourcing and production an attractive and financially feasible business decision for any
brand. Brands that currently are not part of the Activist space because of consumer attitudes or significantly higher
supply-costs would face a lower barrier adopt a sustainable supply chain by the Frontier phase of our strategy. We
acknowledge that the transition from the first Activist to the second Frontier stage will be a decades-long, gradual
process.
We define the players in the Frontier space as follows:
FRONTIER CONSUMER
The Frontier Consumer is defined as someone who will
always consider the social and environmental impact of
a certain garment as part of their purchasing decision
in the future, roughly 25 years from now. This group of
consumers will include the initial Activist Consumers
as well as everyone we reach by the end of our Activist
stage.
FRONTIER BRAND
The Frontier Brand is defined as a brand that in this
future environment would invest in BETTER sourcing,
and would then communicate that as a core value to their
consumer (once initial fears of higher supply-cost and
lack of demand have been alleviated by our initial Activist
stage).
FRONTIER SUPPLIER
The Frontier Supplier is defined as an organization
involved in producing clothing with a better supply
chain in this future environment. These include Activist
Suppliers as well as other suppliers that shifted to
sustainable investments during our initial Activist Stage.
FRONTIER GOV'T AGENCY
The Frontier Government Agency is defined as parts of
supply-side governments that, in this future scenario, are
inclined to support industry changes towards BETTER
practices because of the now proven consumer demand.

59. 6 5
FRONTIER CONSUMER
Similar to the Activist Consumer, we propose to offer
high level of traceability and the ability to partake in a
larger movement.
FRONTIER BRAND
We would continue to offer a BETTER and more
transparent supply network. Although more brands will
be on board with sustainable practices in this future
environment, participating in our network would still be
considered a marked industry differentiator.
FRONTIER SUPPLIER
Similar to the Activist Supplier, we will continue to
generate more business, guarantee a fair negotiation
process, and provide access to education and resources.
FRONTIER GOV'T INITIATIVES
Frontier Governments will see added pressure from
successful sustainable business in neighboring regions.
We propose to offer the following value to each of the defned customer segments:

60. 6 6
As a note regarding the Frontier Consumer, we will have a smaller scale awareness campaign at this stage, assuming
that our Activist stage would have drummed up sufficient public buzz and word-of-mouth to carry us through to the
Frontier stage.
As for the Frontier Supplier, we will place less emphasis on reaching out to new suppliers, as we hope to have built a
stronger business case for investing in better practices by then.

61. BUSINESSMODELCANVASPHASETWO
KEYPARTNERSKEYACTIVITIESCUSTOMER
RELATIONSHIPS
CUSTOMERSEGMENTS
KEYRESOURCESCHANNELS
COSTSTRUCTUREREVENUESTREAMS
FRONTIERCONSUMER
Makingthepeopleandprocessesbehind
theproductvisible
Buildingasmallerwarenesscampaign
FRONTIERBRAND
Fulfillingorders
Auditingsuppliers
Connectingthemtotherightsuppliers
FRONTIERSUPPLIER
Providingguidelinesandfacilitating
adoptionofsustainablepractices,
informedbyresearchforstandards
FRONTIERGOV'TINITIATIVES
Establishingrelationships
FrontierSuppliers
ExpertsandResearchers
GovernmentAgencies
Lawyers
Networkofsuppliers
ITinfrastructure
Libraryforsustainablepractices
HR
Copyrightedbrand
Customerrelationshipdivisions
Frontierbrandstores
Humancapital
Digitalinfrastructure
Marketing
R&D
Logistics
Marketing
CommissionfromActivistandFrontier
brands
Subscriptionfeefromsuppliers
Fundraising
Sales(wearablesandaccessories)
VALUEPROPOSITION
FRONTIERCONSUMER
Traceability
Participationinabiggermovement
FRONTIERBRAND
Strongerandmoretransparentsupplier
network
Positivebrandimage
FRONTIERSUPPLIER
Extrabusiness
Fairnegotiationprocess
Accesstocuttingedgeeducation
FRONTIERGOV'TINITIATIVES
Internationalbusinessinvestment
FRONTIERCONSUMER
Strongcommunityoflike-minded
consumers
FRONTIERBRAND&SUPPLIER
Ongoingpersonalassistance
FRONTIERCONSUMER
Definedasconsumerswhowillconsider
thesocialandenvironmentalimpact
ofacertaingarmentasapartoftheir
purchasingdecisioninthefuture,
roughly25yearsfromnow.Thosewill
includetheinitialActivistConsumersas
wellaseveryonewereachbytheendof
ourActiviststageinitiatives.
FRONTIERBRAND
Definedasabrandthatinthisfuture
environmentwouldinvestinBETTER
sourcing,andwouldthencommunicate
thatasacorevaluetotheirconsumer
(onceinitialfearsforhighersupply-
costandlackofdemandhavebeen
alleviated).
FRONTIERSUPPLIER
Definedasanorganizationinvolvedin
producingclothingwithaBETTER
supplychaininthisfutureenvironment.
TheseincludeActivistSuppliersas
wellasothersuppliersthatshiftedto
sustainableinvestmentsduringour
initialActiviststageinitiatives..

63. 6 9
PASSING THE BATON
The third and final phase to our strategy considers
the point in time when B E T T E R clothing will become
the standard for all players in the ecosystem. In order
for this to happen, we see a bigger role for demand-
side governments to start making the higher degree
of traceability and social impact of garments a
requirement, much like the Country of Origin Marking
most countries have adopted. We envision that this
would be feasible by then, because numerous brands
would already be doing it, there would be enough low-
impact suppliers, and a sizable group of consumers
demanding it.
The value proposition for governments would include
better relationships with supply-side countries,
as this policy would improve local conditions and
provide potential public health benefits as toxins and
other dangerous chemicals would be eliminated from
clothing.
Our business activities in this final phase would shift
in focus from the Activist and the Frontier phases, with
diminished need for consumer awareness campaigns
and a solidly established network of sustainable
manufacturers. We would continue other activities like
communicating the stories of makers to consumers
and improving supplier operations even as new
environmental and social issues come up in the future.
At the moment, our proposal is still in its research
phase. Further work needs to be done to validate
the business model, particularly the feasibility of
delivering on all our value propositions through the
activities outlined, and to determine if our strategic
trajectory would indeed unleash the type of systemic
change we are envisioning.
K E Y C O N S I D E R AT I O N S
How we will share accountability for supply-chain
malpractices with the suppliers and brands we work
with?
What will our outreach plan in supply-side countries
entail to garner support from local governments and
form a strong network of suppliers?
What checks and balances will we establish to help
safeguard our agency from getting caught in corrupt
practices?
How will we building credibility and ensure an
authentic voice when appealing to consumers, to avoid
coming across as another greenwashing marketing
campaign?
//CONSIDERATIONS AND NEXT STEPS

64. Yushi studied Fashion Design in
London and has worked in the fashion
industry as a shoe designer as well
as a freelance textile designer after
graduation. Inspired by different cultures,
she enjoys experimenting and working
hands-on with traditional techniques.
Indiana holds a BA in Psychology
from the University of Pennsylvania
and has experience working in
marketing, brand strategy, and
research. She is interested in human-
centered research, experience design,
innovation, and branding.
I N D I A N A
B A L T O D A N O
I N D I A N A B @ N E W S C H O O L . E D U
―
YUSHI
LI
L I Y 6 3 6 @ N E W S C H O O L . E D U
―
ABOUT THE TEAM

65. Gayatri brings her background in
architecture and business strategy
to the Parsons Strategic Design and
Management program, and aspires to
work with human-centred design as a
tool for social impact in emerging markets.
G A Y AT R I
M O H A N
G M O H A N @ N E W S C H O O L . E D U
―
Thijs is a strategic designer and
entrepreneur, with a background in UX
design, industrial design and mechanical
engineering. He’s a creative thinker
blending originality with function and a
business purpose in everything he makes.
THIJS
SCHIPPERS
T H I J S @ N E W S C H O O L . E D U
―

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