Clariant presentation at InnoCos Europe, Paris

Public
Dr. Frederic Pilz
Industrial & Consumer Specialties
AD Personal Care
04.03.2011
19.02.2010

Preserve more with less
- increasing the performance of preservatives with Velsan® SC

Velsan® SC

hydrotrope, co-emulsifying agent for cosmetic formulations

synergistic efficacy booster for preservative systems

100 % based on renewable resources

Ecocert approved

not listed as a preservative

low odour, non volatile liquid

cost effective alternative to 1,2-Octanediol or Ethylhexylglycerin

Public – Velsan® SC - Preserve more with less
Dr. Frederic Pilz, Industrial & Consumer Specialties, AD Personal Care (Copyright Clariant. All rights reserved.) 04.03.2011 Slide 2

Velsan® SC
- the benefits
hydrotrope, co-emulsifying agent for cosmetic formulations
– multifunctional cosmetic ingredient with a HLB of approx. 11 (calculated)
– Sorbitan Esters used since many years mild products with excellent toxicological profile

synergistic efficacy booster for preservative systems
– boosts efficacy of classical preservative like aromatic alcohols or organic acids synergistically
– efficacy comparable to aromatic alcohols like Phenoxyethanol or Benzyl Alcohol
– helps to lower the overall amount of classical preservatives needed for a safe preservation
– resulting in milder formulations (less irritation or sensitization potential)
– reduces negative side-effects of other antimicrobials: instability due to thinning, odour

not listed as a preservative
– in combination with other non-listed actives “preservative-free” claim possible
– can be used globally without limitations

Velsan® SC
- the benefits
100 % based on renewable resources
– Sorbitan via Sorbitol from wheat/corn and Octanoic acid from coco/palm oil
– no formaldehyde-release, not halogenated

low odour, non volatile liquid
– does not cause odour even if used at high concentrations

cost effective alternative to 1,2-Octanediol or Ethylhexylglycerin
– efficacy comparable to other non-listed polyols
– in contrast to these synthetic polyols, Velsan® SC is 100 % based on renewable resources

pH independent
– can be used within a wide pH range from pH 5-8
– excellent in combination with organic acids at a pH < 6
– excellent in combination with aromatic alcohols or e.g. MIT within pH 5-8

Velsan® SC
- properties
amber coloured, medium viscous liquid OH
O
O
– INCI: Sorbitan Caprylate
O
– heat stable up to 80 °C HO
OH

– easy to use, easy dosage
– no impact on colour of formulation

the green alternative
– sustainable being based on renewable resources
– readily biodegradable according to OECD 301 B

Ecocert approved
– applied for the NaTrue list


Synergism with
Aromatic Alcohols

Velsan® SC
- synergism with Phenoxyethanol and Benzyl alcohol

MIC data of Velsan® SC in comparison to and combination with Phenoxyethanol and
Benzyl Alcohol
Velsan® SC Phenoxyethanol Velsan® SC, Benzyl Alcohol Velsan® SC, Benzyl
Phenoxyethanol Alcohol
1:1 blend 1:1 blend

Pseudomonas 1 0.25 0.25 0.125 0.5
aeruginosa

Staphylococcus 0.25 0.125 0.063 0.25 0.032
aureus

Candida albicans 0.016 0.032 0.008 0.063 0.008

Aspergillus 0.5 0.5 0.25 0.25 0.5
brasiliensis

combination with Phenoxyethanol or Benzyl Alcohol helps to close the gap against
Pseudomonas aeruginosa
the often not wanted/unpleasant odour of Phenoxyethanol is reduced by combining it 1:1
with Velsan® SC leading to an even better performance

Challenge Tests

Challenge Tests shown were done in accordance to Ph.Eur. guidelines for topical
preparations

Log reduction criteria A, B and F are represented by colour codes

A= B= F=


Velsan® SC
- recipe of Challenge Test shampoo AI 8146
basic shampoo formulation with low surfactant concentration
added milk protein serves as a nutrient increasing the preservation hurdle
recipe:

Ingredients Weight-%
Sodium Laureth Sulfate 13.70
Water ad 100
Coco-Betaine 6.00
Sodium Chloride 1.40
Hydrolyzed Milk Protein 1.00


Velsan® SC
- Challenge Test results of test shampoo AI 8146
Piroctone Olamine as the sole preservative is not strong enough at this concentration
to preserve this formulation
adding Velsan® SC in 0.5 % intervals it helps to improve the test results and to
achieve an overall pass of the formulation

Preservative blend Test system Use conc. Efficacy at pH 5.5

Piroctone Olamine shampoo 0.05 %

Piroctone Olamine + Velsan® SC ,, 0.05 % + 1.0 %



unpreserved ,, ---
Pseudom. Staph. Candida Asperg.
A= B= F= aerug. aureus albicans bras.


Velsan® SC
- guide recipe for a mild shampoo BI 1164
Mild EO- and Sulfate-free shampoo
Procedure: A Hostapon® SG Surfactant 30.00 %
I Mix the Sodium Cocyl Glycinate
components of A
Genagen® KB Co-Surfactant 25.00 %
while heating to
approx. 70°C. Coco-Betaine

II Cool down to 30°C Genagen® CME Thickener 1.00 %
and add the Cocoamide MEA
components of B
while stirring. Velsan® SC Synergist 2.10 %
Sorbitan Caprylate
III Finally adjust the
pH with C Water ad 100 %

B Preservative q.s.

Fragrance q.s.
Viscosity: 2900 mPas C Citric Acid 25 % 0.70 %


Velsan® SC
- Challenge Test results of guide recipe BI 1164
guide recipe shampoo containing 2.10 % Velsan® SC as sole preservative fails only
against Gram-negative bacteria Pseudomonas aeruginosa
addition of Benzyl alcohol or Phenoxyethanol helps to close this gap


--- guide recipe shampoo ---

Benzyl Alcohol ,, + 0.3 %

,, ,, + 0.6 %

Phenoxyethanol ,, + 0.3 %

,, ,, + 0.6 %

overall use concentration of aromatic alcohols well below max. allowed limit
no interference with perfume due to lower concentration of aromatic alcohols

Velsan® SC
- recipe of Challenge Test cream AVI 1998

leave-on cosmetics are in general more prone to a contamination by fungi as level
of water is reduced vs. rinse-off formulations and often the pH is lower
natural based formulations are more challenging to preserve
recipe:

Ingredients Weight-% Ingredients Weight-%

Water ad 100 % Simmondsia Chinensis Oil (Jojoba Oil) 1.3 %
Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil (Grape seed oil) 6.0 % Lecithin 1.0 %
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 6.0 % Guar Gum 0.5 %
Glycerin 3.0 % Xanthan Gum 0.5 %
Cetearyl Alcohol 3.0 % Sodium Citrate ~ 1.0 %
Glyceryl Stearate 3.0 % Tocopherol Acetate 0.5 %
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Almond oil) 2.5 % Allantoin 0.3 %
Cetearyl Glucoside 2.0 % Panthenol 0.3 %
Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil 1.5 %
(Apricot Kernel Oil)


Velsan® SC
- Challenge Test results of test cream AVI 1998

excellent in combination with organic acids
Challenge Test results in hard to preserve cream


Benzoic Acid cream 0.4 %

Benzoic Acid + Velsan® SC ,, 0.4 % + 0.5 %



Phenoxyethanol + 5 Parabens ,, 0.9 %

Phenoxyethanol + 5 Parabens ,, 1.2 %

unpreserved ,, ---

helps to preserve the formulation at natural skin pH
reduced skin irritation potential if pH is close to skins neutral pH value of pH 4.9


Velsan® SC
- Challenge Test results of test cream AVI 1998
Challenge Test results of Anisic Acid (p-Methoxybenzoic Acid) in combination with Velsan® SC in
hard to preserve test cream
as both substances are not listed, “preservative-free” claim is possible


Anisic Acid cream 0.4 %

Anisic Acid + Velsan® SC ,, 0.4 % + 0.5 %




unpreserved ,, ---


excellent combination of Velsan® SC with natural actives
excellent preservation and still “preservative-free”


Daycream with Coenzyme Q 10

A Hostacerin® SFO (Clariant) Emulsifier 2.00 %
Sunflower Seed Oil Sorbitol Esters
Velsan® CCT (Clariant) Emollient 4.50 %
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Cetiol® OE Dicaprylyl Ether 4.50 %
Emollient
Lanette® 22 Stabilizer 4.00 %
Behenyl Alcohol
Lanette® 18 Stabilizer 4.00 %
Stearyl Alcohol
Fucogel 1000 Skin Conditioning Agent 1.00 %
I Heat mixture of components A Biosaccharide Gum-1
to 80°C. B Coenzyme Q 10 Active 0.10 %
II Heat mixture of components C Ubiquinone
to 80°C. C Water ad 100.00 %
III Add B to I. Glycerin 10.00 %
Humectant
IV Add II to III and stir until cool.
Hostaphat® CK 100 (Clariant) Emulsifier 0.60 %
V Add D to IV. Potassium Cetyl Phosphate
VI Finally adjust the pH carefully D Velsan® SC (Clariant) Synergist 1.50 %
with E to 5.5. Sorbitan Caprylate
p-Anisic Acid 0.40 %
Fragrance
E NaOH (10%) q.s.
Neutralizer


Challenge Test results Daycream with
Coenzyme Q10
Challenge Test results for daycream preserved with Anisic Acid and Velsan® SC
Although at 0.4 % use concentration of Anisic Acid the overall criteria are not
changed, there was a further reduction in log scale


Anisic Acid + Velsan® SC ,, 0.3% + 1.0 %



unpreserved ,, ---



Comparison to 1,2-
Octantediol and
Ethylhexylglycerin

Velsan® SC
- in comparison to other alternatives
Velsan® SC is comparable to other alternatives found in the market
gap against Pseudomonas aeruginosa can easily be closed by combination with
aromatic alcohols

Velsan® SC 1,2-Octanediol Ethylhexylglycerin

Pseudomonas 1 0.25 0.25
aeruginosa
Staphylococcus 0.032 0.125 0.125
aureus
Candida albicans 0.2 0.2 0.1

Aspergillus 0.2 0.1 0.1
brasiliensis


Velsan® SC

Velsan® SC

… is a synergistic preservative booster

… works excellent in combination with classical preservatives e.g. aromatic alcohols,
organic acids, other actives like Piroctone Olamine

… reduces thinning and odour problems encountered with some actives without decreasing
a safe preservation

… is 100 % based on renewable resources

… is approved by Ecocert

… can be used for “preservative-free” cosmetics in combination with non-listed actives

Velsan® SC is the multifunctional, economic synergist


Clariant presentation at InnoCos Europe, Paris

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