Sewing thread

Mahmud Sakib
Merchandiser(IDS Group)
Guest Lecturer (National Institute Of Design)
mahmudsakib90@gmail.com

What is a sewing thread?
Sewing threads are special kinds of yarns that are engineered and
designed to pass through a sewing machine rapidly. They form
efficient stitches without breaking or becoming distorted during the
useful life of the product. The basic function of a thread is to deliver
aesthetics and performance in stitches and seams.
Basics of thread construction
All conventional sewing threads begin their production
cycle as simple yarns. These basic yarns are produced by
twisting together relatively short fibres or fine continuous
filaments.
Some terms used in the context of thread construction are:
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Twist – Twist is simply the number of turns per unit length. A
thread with too little twist may fray and break, one with too
much twist can cause snarling, looping and knotting. Balance is
the key and a good sewing thread has it.
Twist direction – The direction of the finishing twist is important,
twist can be inserted in either direction and this is described as
either Z or S twist. Most common machines use a Z twist thread.
There are other descriptions of twist which were used in the past
but these should not be used to avoid confusion.
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Types of Sewing thread:
• Linen Thread
• Cotton threads.
• Nylon
• rayon threads
• Silk threads
• Wool threads.
• Metallic threads.
• Bobbin Elastic threads
• Designer threads (mixed threads made by combining different
types of threads, cottons with rayon with silk, etc.)
• Water soluble thread or Magic thread
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Cotton is a relatively light-weight fiber that is good for summer clothing and
accessories.
It is quite breathable and comfortable to wear next to the skin.
Cotton can easily be dyed in a dizzying array of colors, so no matter what
you’re favorite color is, you’re bound to find a shade of cotton to match your
every desire.
Cotton is strong, durable and machine-washable. It starts out soft and
actually gets softer the more you wash it.
It is usually inexpensive, though you are often rewarded with better quality
when you pay a little more.
Cotton usually holds together well and doesn’t pill.
Cotton Thread
The characteristics of cotton thread:
1). Better moisture absorption.
2). Excellent heat resistance
3). Health and good performance.
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Linenthread is made from the flax plant, Linum usitatissimum. It is the
strongest natural fiber used for thread. The fibers are naturally light colored,
and manufacturers often sell the thread in its natural color, although most offer
it in various colors. Many experts believe that linen is the oldest known cloth,
and it is still popular in modern times. Some of the uses for the thread
include book binding, basket weaving, and making delicate lace.
DISADVANTAGES OF LINEN FABRIC:
• Fair abrasion, low durability
• By nature it’s stiff
• Poor elasticity
• Expensive
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Polyester thread is a a true all-purpose thread, and it's a good
choice for most sewing projects, both machine- and hand-sewn. The
thread has some give to it, so it won't break when you are working
with stretchy knits. Polyester thread often has a wax or silicone finish
that allows it slip through the fabric easily. You can also find invisible
polyester thread, which is an ideal choice when you are searching for
an extremely strong thread that will also stay hidden.
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Rayon Thread or Viscose thread
Unlike cotton thread which is made from a natural source and unlike polyester
which is made from man-made polymers, rayon (commonly referred to as viscose
rayon) is a mixture of nature and manufacturing. The textbook definition of rayon
is "a manufactured fiber composed of regenerated cellulose." The major source of
cellulose required in the creation of rayon is wood pulp, which is produced from
timber. After the bark has been removed, the wood is chipped into very small
pieces, boiled under pressure, chemically treated, washed, and then dried. The
final product is a hybrid material called viscose rayon.
It may be made from continuous filament or
staple fibres. The strength and stability are
comparatively less but more brighten. It has a
limited use as a sewing thread but widely used
in embroidery work.
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Nylon is a general purpose thread designed for applications
that require a strong, inexpensive, easy sewing thread with a
glossy finish. It is the first choice for upholstery, leatherwork,
auto interiors, banners and flags, sports gear, dog collars, horse
saddles and tack, knife sheaths, gun holsters, fishing lures, and
brief cases. Lighter weight sizes are often used for sewing
garments made from nylon or other shiny fabrics. There are
times when other threads work better than nylon:
made from hexamethylenediamine and
adipic acid. It has not a wide used due to
high extensibility because it makes seam
puckering after sewing due to shrinkage.
These types of thread are used to sew
knitted fabric, extensible seam and
swimming wear
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Silk thread (Mostly use for Embroidery)
Silk thread is very fine. It's also flexible and won't leave holes,
so it makes an excellent choice for basting thread. It's also
great to use when sewing silk or wool.
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Wool thread
You probably won't have many occasions to use wool thread when
sewing garments, as it tends to be used for embroidery projects,
but it is an extremely strong thread that's a good choice when
working with heavy fabrics like wool and canvas. It can be a good
option for topstitching-- just be sure to use a larger needle and
adjust your sewing machine's tension appropriately.
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Persian wool - Persian wool consists of three strands. You
can use the three strands together or separate the threads
to use singly. Whether or not you separate the threads will
depend on the project and the thickness of the fabric being
sewn.
Tapestry wool - this wool is not as thick as the Persian
wool. It is not dividable.
Crewel wool - this is the finest of the wool threads. It is
ideal for crewel embroidery projects. While it is fine, you
can weave it into a thicker thread by twisting with more
threads.
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Heavy-duty thread
Heavy-duty thread is also a polyester thread, but the weight of the
thread is not suitable for most garment sewing projects. It is,
however, the perfect choice when sewing upholstery and canvas,
so you might find yourself reaching for it when you're tackling
home decor sewing projects.
Mahmud Sakib

Metallic thread (Mostly use for Embroidery)
Metallic thread is often featured on handbags; you can find it in
gold, silver and copper varieties. It's used often in machine
embroidery, and would be a good choice if you were looking a
thread with a little flair for topstitching.
Types of Metallic Threads:
M TYPE
MX TYPE
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MH TYPE
MHS TYPE
MS (ST) TYPE
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Variegated thread - these threads are dyed different shades, the
variegation repeating along the length of the thread in an even
manner. Suitable generally for embroidery projects or colorful
sewing projects, such as crazy quilt jackets, etc.
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Fishing Twine
Using nylon or high strength polyester filament as material, MH
fishing twine is high tensile strength, shiny and high temperature
resistant and it is mainly applied to leather sewing, such as shoe
industry, bag & luggage industry and sofa industry, etc.
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use it for shirring, doll apparel, toddler costumes and other sewing crafts.
This elastic thread can be used in the bobbin needles of sewing machines
as a under-thread only
Elastic thread use in bobbin of a sewing machine to create a
“smocked” appearance on fabric (it's not actually smocking, though; true
smocking is a decorative stitching technique done on pleated fabric…my
grandma used to hand-smock dresses for me back in the seventies and
eighties)
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Water soluble thread use approach to making temporary
stitches. It quickly dissolves in water. This thread is ideal for hand
basting, trapunto quilting, and other applications where an erasable
temporary stitch is needed. This thread is made from a special
fibrous blend of Polyvinyl Alcohol. Through
advanced processing techniques, that make a strong thread, which
can be run in a high-speed machine without breaking.
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Aramide thread:
Aramide threads are not used as a large rate because of more
expensive. Its commercial name is Nomex.
Aramid fibers are a class of heat-resistant and strong synthetic fiber.
They are used in aerospace and military applications, for ballistic-
rated body armor fabric and ballistic composites, in bicycle tires,
and as an asbestos substitute.
good resistance to abrasion
good resistance to organic solvents
nonconductive
no melting point
low flammability
good fabric integrity at elevated temperatures
sensitive to acids and salts
sensitive to ultraviolet radiation
prone to electrostatic charge build-up unless
finished
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PTFE (polytetrafluoroethylene) is a thermoplastic polymer with a very low
coefficient of friction along with excellent chemical, temperature, and
environmental resistant properties. Commonly known by its brand names
ofTeflon™ , Yeumiflon® , or Profilen® , PTFE can be manufactured as a specialty
fiber or thread for a broad range of applications including filtration, outdoor
fabrics, electrical cables, and protective garments.
PTFE Thread:
Virtually chemically inert – there are only a few chemicals that can
affect PTFE fibers and only elementary alkali metals such as sodium can
permanently damage the material.
100% UV resistance – PTFE fibers do not degrade in the presence of UV
light unlike polyester and nylon. They will maintain their tensile
properties indefinitely. This makes PTFE ideal for sewing outdoor
fabrics.
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Non flammable –PTFE has a very high LOI (>94%) and will not burn.
Low coefficient of friction – PTFE will repel most chemicals which
makes it very effective as a filtration media. As a sewing thread,
because of the very low friction, PTFE is basically self lubricating
making it very easy to sew with.
Excellent thermal and electrical insulator – PTFE has a very high
continuous service temperature of 500 deg F.
Appropriate for food and medical use – PTFE is
approved by the FDA for use in food applications and in
the medical field
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Invisible thread - this is similar to fishing line. It's strong and it's
invisible, making it ideal for projects where you need the sewing to be
strongly kept in place and hidden at the same time.
Invisible Thread is a very fine .004 polyester monofilament that is soft
enough for baby quilts or garments that will be worn next to the skin. It is
much more heat tolerant than nylon; it will not melt with normal ironing
through the cotton setting. It is perfect for machine "hand-look" quilting,
stitching in the ditch, invisible appliqué, and for hems. Choose smoke for
darker fabrics and clear for lighter fabrics
Mahmud Sakib

Yarn count Usages
20/2 Jeans ,shoes ,caps ,leather products ,etc.
20/3 Jeans, shoes ,handbags ,leather products ,etc.
30/2 Art crafts, hand bags, protective suits, etc.
30/3 Jeans, tents, leather products ,hand bags, shoes, etc.
40/2 Trousers, coats, suits, shirts, etc.
40/3 Protective suits, art crafts, shoes, etc.
50/2 Knitting garments, suit-dress, underwear, etc.
50/3 Art crafts, decoration sewing ,field clothes, etc.
60/2 Ultrathin fabrics, underwear, suit-dress,etc.
60/3 Coats, suits, trousers, bed sheets quilts, blankets, etc.
80/2 Embroidering &clothing accessory
80/3 Underwear, suit-dress, full dress, etc.
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Bonded: Polyester or nylon thread coated to keep it from shredding and to
reduce abrasion.
Gassed: Cotton thread quickly passed through a flame to reduce fuzz.
Glazed (glacé): Cotton thread for hand-sewing, treated with starches,
waxes, or chemicals, and polished to a luster for a smooth, glossy surface to
reduce knots and tangling. This finish can gum-up a sewing machine.
Mercerized: Cotton or cotton-covered polyester thread given a caustic soda
bath that’s neutralized with an acid bath. Mercerizing adds strength, luster, and
dye affinity, and reduces lint. Soft: Usually refers to a cotton thread to which no
finishing processes have been applied
Finishes
Some finishes involve increasing strength, abrasion resistance and
lubrication of the thread.
Some finishes include bonding, non wick, anti-fungal, fire retardant, water
repellent and anti-static finishes.
GASSED - Passing cotton thread through a flame at high speed to reduce
the fuzz is known as gassing. This process also produces a higher sheen.
BONDED - Treating continuous filament nylon or polyester with a
special resin that encapsulates the filaments is called bonding. The
result is a tough smooth coating that adds significantly to the
thread's ability to resist abrasion and greatly enhances ply security
Mahmud Sakib

WHAT MAKES A GOOD THREAD?
In general all good sewing threads have in common good sew ability, good
seam performance and in the case of decorative threads, aesthetics. Several
characteristics contribute to these attributes and are regularly measured
and monitored by most thread manufacturers.
• Elongation - This is the amount a thread stretches before it breaks.
Threads with high elongation will give greater seam elasticity, but can
cause poor loop formation leading to excessive skipped stitches and
thread breakage. The elongation of a sewing thread is determined by
fiber type but can also be controlled by drawing and heat setting of
synthetics such as polyester and nylon. Cotton thread has very little, if
any, elongation.
• Uniformity - Imperfections or defects in thread are thick and thin
places that can cause sewing problems. The most common imperfections
are: knots, slubs, neps, dropped ply, dropped filament and singles kinks.
Obviously the fewer the better.
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Ply Security - This is a thread's ability to stay together during the sewing
process. The most common type of thread break is caused by a loss of ply
security. If the plies open up during the sewing process they are much more
susceptible to breaking.
Lubricity - This is the frictional characteristic of thread as it passes through the
sewing machine and into the seam. The soft “fuzzy” characteristic of cotton
thread and spun polyester actually gives these threads greater lubricity and
better sewability than continuous filament threads.
Strength - The amount of force required to break a thread. This characteristic
can be measured several ways: Breaking Strength - force applied to each end of
the thread until it breaks, measured in pounds. Loop Strength - when one strand
of thread is looped with another strand and then broken, also measured in
pounds. Tenacity - the breaking strength of a thread adjusted for thread size.
Tenacity is measured in grams/denier. Thread made from continuous filaments
are generally stronger and have higher tenacity than threads made from staple
fibers
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Smooth surface and absence of faults ensures less friction
between the needle and the material during high-speed sewing. The
thread must be well lubricated to increase its sewability and resistance to
abrasion.
Good elasticity enables thread to recover its original length
immediately after the tension has been released. The elasticity of
sewing thread affects the strength and the finished quality of a stitched
seam.
Low shrinkage of the thread being used on the fabric material with
higher shrinkage reduces the chances of seam puckering.
Good resistanceto chemical attack is a desirable property for
thread used in garments which may undergo washing, bleaching or
dry-cleaning.
Good abrasion resistance ensures a good sewing performance
and makes the thread more durable.

Twist - A thread with too little twist may fray and break, one with too much can
cause snarling, looping and knotting. Thread breaks can be caused by a number
of variables including:
Few points need to consider:
◆ Using the wrong thread for the application
◆ Incorrect needle or damaged needle
◆ Thread defects
◆ Too much elongation
◆ Being sewn with too much tension
◆ Worn machine parts
◆ Machine out of adjustment
◆ Operator handling
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COLORFASTNESS
The ability of a thread to retain its color during normal use is its
colorfastness. There are several variables that are measured.
• Wash Fastness - the ability to resist color change after laundering.
• Crock Fastness - Refers to rubbing off of color. Crocking is checked both wet
and dry. • Sublimation - This relates to the loss of color due to heat. Certain
dyes will change from a solid to gas when exposed to high heat and will
redeposit elsewhere.
• Cold Water Migration - This refers to the possibility of staining when light
colored fabric is combined with stronger colored thread and left wet for a
period of time.
• Light Fastness - In this test, samples are exposed for prolonged periods of
time to daylight.
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No./Tkt. Nm Tex x Fachung
Thread Endno.
in tex with ply
4 4/3 250 x 3 750(3)
5 5/3 200 x 3 600(3)
8 8/3 125 x 3 400(3)
10 10/3 97 x 3 290(3)
11 15/4 66 x 4 265(4)
15 15/3 66 x 3 200(3)
20 20/3 50 x 3 150(3)
30 9/1 110 x 1 110(1)
30 30/3 33,3 x 1 100(3)
40 25/2 39 x 2 78(2)
40 40/3 25 x 3 75(3)
50 50/3 20 x 3 60(3)
60 60/3 16,7 x 3 50(2)
60 40/2 25 x 2 50(3)
70 70/3 14,5 x 3 40(3)
75 50/2 20 x 2 40(2)
80 53/2 19 x 2 38(2)
80 80/3 12,5 x 3 35(3)
100 65/2 15,5 x 2 30(2)
120 80/2 12,5 x 2 25(2)
150 50/1 20 x 1 20(1)
150 100/2 10 x 2 20(2)
180 120/2 8 x 2 16(2)
200 65/1 15 x 1 15(1)
210 70/1 14 x 1 14(1)
220 145/2 6,5 x 2 13(2)
240 80/1 12,5 x 1 12,5(1)
360 120/1 8 x 1 8(1)
Metric counting – Nm
Ticket number – No. / Tkt.
Thread Weight – Tex / DTex
English cotton count – NeB
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Thread Size Recommendations
Fabric Weight
(oz/yd^2)
Fabric Weight
(g/m^2)
Thread Size
2 to 4 65 to 135 T-16 to T-24
4 to 6 135 to 200 T-24 to T-30
6 to 8 200 to 270 T-30 to T-50
8 to 10 270 to 340 T-40 to T-60
10 to 14 340 to 475 T-60 to T-135
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Classification based on construction thread structure
Spun thread is made by using natural or
synthetic fibers, sometimes referred to as “PP” or “PP
Spun”, are made by spinning 100% polyester staple
fibers into yarns and then plying these yarns into a
sewing thread. Spun Polyester threads are normally
made in a two or three ply constructions depending on
the yarn size.
Spun thread
Benefits of using premium Spun Polyester sewing threads versus
Corespun threads:
• Lower Initial Price
• Readily available around the world
Staple fibers are spun into a specific yarn (cotton count – ex. 29/1) and
then plied into a sewing thread (cotton count – ex. 29/2 or 29/3).
Mahmud Sakib

Corespun threads, sometimes referred “pcore” or
“polycore” or “cottoncore”, are made by wrapping a
staple polyester or cotton wrapper around a continuous
filament bundle of polyester fibers during spinning, and
then plying these yarns into a sewing thread. The
continuous filament polyester core makes up
approximately 60% of the thread construction.
This core contributes to:
• Higher strength per size (higher tenacity)
• Greater uniformity in size, strength and other physical
characteristics
• A higher initial modulus or resistance to stretching
contributing to better loop formation and reduced seam
puckering.
• Better ply security – fewer unravel type thread breaks
• Superior abrasion resistance & durability
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Filament yarnsare made by taking the single polyester filaments,
grouping them together and then twisting or air-entangling them to make them
workable. A monofilament yarn has just one, single polyester fiber that is
usually not twisted.
Continuous Filaments are used in the manufacturing of five thread
constructions including:
Twisted multifilament
Monocord
Textured
Air entangled
Monofilament
Continuous filaments are normally sized using the denier system. Threads
made from continuous filaments are generally stronger and have greater
uniformity than threads made from staple fibers.
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Air Entangled Thread
Is made from continuous filaments of polyester that
are entangled as they pass through a high pressure air
jet. This yarn is then twisted, dyed, and wound on
cones with lubricant. Air entangled threads are used
in everything from quilting mattresses to sewing
heavy denim jeans.
Air Entangled Thread
Monocord Thread
Is produced from continuous filaments of nylon that
have been bonded together. They have very little
twist so that they look like a single cord of
yarn. Because of the way these threads are made,
they appear to be flat and ribbon-like, which provides
a high degree of resistance to abrasion. Monocord
threads are exceptionally strong for their size so they
are used in the manufacturing of furniture, shoes,
and other heavy duty applications. (Example
products are
Monocord Thread
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Monofilament Thread
Normally produced from a single nylon continuous
filament resembling fishing line. Usually monofilament
threads are used because the thread is translucent and
blends in with many colors. Because it has a tendency to
be stiffer than other filament products, it is not
recommended for seams that may lay adjacent to the
skin. Also, because it is a single filament, it may unravel
easily if the thread is not locked in the seam adequately.
Monofilament threads have been used in quilting
operations on quilts and bedspreads, as well as, in blind
stitch operations on drapery and apparel. (Example
product is
Monofilament Thread
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Textured Thread
Is made from continuous filaments of polyester or
nylon that have been textured by pin, disc, or belt and
then heat set to insure proper bulk
retention. Textured polyester is usually manufactured
with regular or mid tenacity, continuous filaments
depending on the application. Textured threads are
ideal for over edge, chain stitch, and cover stitch of
the finished seam and offers good seam elasticity.
Textured threads are usually less expensive when
compared to other thread types.
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Twisted Multifilament Thread
Is made from continuous filaments of polyester or
nylon that are twisted together into a cohesive bundle
and then plied to make the thread. They are then
dyed, stretched, and heat set to achieve the desired
physical characteristics. Twisted Multifilament threads
are available either soft or with an additional bond for
better ply security and abrasion resistance. They are
exceptionally strong for their size and they have
excellent resistance and durability. These threads are
used for seaming everything from bathing suits to
automobile upholstery.
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Mahmud Sakib
Different fiber types are dyed with different dye types and temperatures to
achieve the desired shade and color fastness requirements.
Polyester threads- Normally dyed with Disperse Dyes at high temperatures
(265° F / 129° C) using high energy dyes to ensure good colorfastness.
Nylon threads- Normally dyed with Acid or Chromatic dyes to achieve the
desired shade.
Natural fibers including cotton and rayon- Can be dyed with either Vat, Fiber
Reactive, or Direct dyes depending on the color fastness requirements and
the color shade to be achieved. Generally Vat dyed natural fibers have the
best color fastness characteristics.

THE END
Mahmud Sakib

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