Like Comment And download. What is Seam? A seam is a joint of two pieces of fabric in producing a three -dimensional shape of a garment. Properties of good seam are, = Smooth fabric joints = No Missed or Uneven stitches = No damage to the material being sewn = Achievement of strength, elasticity, Durability, security and comfort = Comfortable while garment is in use SEAMS DESIGNATION Each stitched seam is designed numerically by five digits: 0.00.00 refers to the CLASS, 1-8; 0.00.00 refers to the material configuration, 01 to 99; 0.00.00 refers to needle penetrations, material configurations, 01-99. Seam Classification: According to British Standard 3870: 1991, seam is classified as- Class 1- superimposed Class 2- lapped Class 3- bound Class 4- flat Class 5- decorative/channel Class 6- edge neatening Class 7- applied Class 8- others * Formed by lapping two pieces of component, they are produced with minimum of two pieces of component. * One component is limited on one end and the other is limited on the other end. The limited edges of these two components are put in opposite directions. * Used for: main seaming of denim jackets, jeans, and overalls. Fabrics that will not ravel, unlined garments, side seams of shirts, joining lace to another fabric, attaching patch pockets, decorative finish

1. Seam And its Classification
By:Md.Mohit-Ul Alam
Daffodil International University
12/06/15

2. Seam
What is Seam?
A seam is a joint of two pieces of fabric in producing a three -dimensional
shape of a garment.
Properties of good seam are,
= Smooth fabric joints
= No Missed or Uneven stitches
= No damage to the material being sewn
= Achievement of strength, elasticity, Durability,
security and comfort
= Comfortable while garment is in use

3. 12/06/15

4. Seam and Classification
SEAMS DESIGNATION
Each stitched seam is designed numerically by five digits:
 0.00.00 refers to the CLASS, 1-8;
 0.00.00 refers to the material configuration,
01 to 99;
 0.00.00 refers to needle penetrations, material
configurations, 01-99.

5. Seam Classification:
According to British Standard 3870: 1991, seam is classified as-
Class 1- superimposed
Class 2- lapped
Class 3- bound
Class 4- flat
Class 5- decorative/channel
Class 6- edge neatening
Class 7- applied
Class 8- others

6. Seam and Classification
PLAIN SEAM or SUPERIMPOSED SEAM Class 1
•Formed by superimposing the edge of one piece of component over the
other, these seams are produced with a minimum of two pieces of
component.
• Each component is limited on the same end.

7. Seam and Classification
PLAIN SEAM or SUPERIMPOSED SEAM Class 1

8. Seam and Classification
Class 2 Lapped seam or welt seam
* Formed by lapping two pieces of component, they are produced with
minimum of two pieces of component.
* One component is limited on one end and the other is limited on the
other end. The limited edges of these two components are put in opposite
directions.
* Used for: main seaming of denim jackets, jeans, and overalls. Fabrics that
will not ravel, unlined garments, side seams of shirts, joining lace to another
fabric, attaching patch pockets, decorative finish

9. Seam and Classification
Class 2 Lapped seam or welt seam

10. Seam and Classification
Class 3 Bound seam
Constructed by binding the component edge with another narrow
component. The seam produced with minimum of two pieces of component.
One component is limited on one end and the other is limited on both
ends.
Used for : finishing necklines, sleeves hems, inside waistbands of trousers
and pants, finishing seams on unlined jackets and coats, adding interest as a
design or decorative detail, finishing raw edges, continuing the motif design
of lace.

11. Seam and Classification
Class 3 Bound seam

12. Seam and Classification
Class 4 Flat or channel seam
Two pieces of fabric are laid flat with their edges closing each other
without overlapping. Seams are produced with minimum of two pieces of
component.
Both components are limited on one end but they are put opposition to
each other on the same level.
* Used for: close fitting garments where the seam allowance may put
pressure on the body, high-stretch fabrics, athletic apparel, shape wear,
undergarments, thermal underwear, swimwear.

13. Seam and Classification
Class 4 Flat or channel seam

14. Seam and Classification
Class 5 Ornamental Seam
A seam class for decorative sewing on garments.
Seams are produced with minimum of one piece of component, with
unlimited edges on both ends.

* Used for: adding a design detail, cording, piping, tucking, welting,
decorative stitching

15. Seam and Classification
Class 5 Ornamental Seam

16. Seam and Classification
Class 6 Turned hem or Edge neatening
Stitching work made on the fabric edges for neatening.
Seams are produced with one piece of component. This seam has one
limited edge on one end.

17. Seam and Classification
Class 6 Turned hem or Edge neatening

18. Seam and Classification
Class 7 Edge Stitched Seam
A narrow piece is sewn to the edge of a garment part.
Seams are produced with minimum of two pieces of component. One
component is limited on one end, and the other narrow one is limited on
both ends.

19. Seam and Classification
Class 7 Edge Stitched Seam

20. Seam and Classification
Class 8 Enclosed Seam
Only one piece of component involved in construction the seam, stitches are
applied on its edge/s.
Seams are produced with minimum of one piece of component with a limited
edge on two ends.

21. Seam and Classification
Class 8 Enclosed Seam

22. Seam Problems
 SEAM PROBLEMS
• Seam Pucker
• Grinning
• Skipped Stitches
• Broken Needle Threads
• Broken Bobbin Threads
• Needle Damage on Fabric
• Seam Slippage

23. Seam problems
 SEAM PROBLEMS
 SEAM PUCKER
• Bad tension
• Bad feed
• Fabric-Thread instability
• Uneven shrinkage during finishing
• Thread-bloat from washing
• Structural jamming/Inherent pucker
• Tight weaving does not have enough room between yarns for thread
• Sewing caused yarns to be pushed out of place

24. Seam problems
Grinning
• Loose tension
• Incorrect stitch choice
• Lockstitch is the tightest stitch and will grin less than
other stitches

25. Seam problems
 SKIPPED STITCHES
• Bad tension
• Machine timing is off
• Bobbin hook or looper is not entering needle thread loop at
• correct time
• Incorrect needle choice
• The wrong needle can cause problems in creating the needle
• thread loop
• Damaged needle
• If the needle is bent, or is striking the throat plate, it may not
create the loop in the right place for the hook to catch

26. Seam problems
 NEEDLE THREAD BREAKAGE
• Tight tension
• Trapping at package base
• Snarling before tension disc
• Poor needle choice
• If eye is too small, there will be increased friction
• Excessive heat
• Poor quality thread

27. Seam problems
BOBBIN/LOOPER THREAD BREAKAGE
•Tight tension
•Badly wound bobbin
•Incorrect fit of bobbin case
•Trapping at package base (for loopers)
NEEDLE DAMAGE
•Incorrect needle/thread choice
•Damaged needle

28. Seam problems
 SEAM SLIPPAGE
• Problem is with the fabric – not the stitch
• Low yarn count, and continuous filament yarns that don’t grip each other
well are to blame
• Very minimal improvement can be achieved through increasing seam
allowance, adding top stitching, or changing to a lapped felled seam
• When possible, seams can be fused
• Best option – Change fabric

29. Thank You