Presentation talks about history, processing and application of Linen Fabric in day to day life.

1. Linen
 Introduction
 Manufacture
 Physical Properties
 Chemical Properties
 Uses

2. INTRODUCTION
 Linen is a cellulosic fibres derived from the stem of the flax plant
or linum usitatissimum which is one of the oldest cultivated plant
In human history.
 Fragments of straw, seeds, fibres, yarns, and various types of
fabrics dating to about 8000 BC have been found in Swiss
lake dwellings.
 Flax is an annual plant, which means it only lives for one
growing season.
 From seed-planting, it is ready to be harvested in about a
hundred days. Unless the weather is particularly warm and dry,
flax requires little watering or attention during this time.

3.  It grows to about three or four feet tall, with glossy bluish-green
leaves and pale blue flowers--though on rare occasions,
the flowers bloom red.
 Flax is grown in many parts of the world, but top quality flax is
primarily grown in Western European countries and Ukraine.
 In very recent years bulk linen production has moved to Eastern
Europe and China.
 Linen market in India is spread over southern most part. Kochi
is the centre of the production of Linen.
 Composition of linen is as follows :-
Cellulose : 92%
Hemi Cellulose : 2%
Lignin : 4%
Others : 2%

4.  Cellulose is the principle element of Linen.
 Structure of Hemi Cellulose.

5. MANUFACTURE
Harvesting
Flax Fibre
Retting Scutching
SpinningWeaving

6. Separating the Flax Fibre
 The xylem and phloem of plants are bundled together by
calcium ions and a sticky protein called pectin, which must
be broken down in order to separate the valuable bast fibres
from the plant’s vasculature so that they can be processed
and spun into yarn.
 This is achieved via a process called Retting.
Retting
 Water retting is the most widely-employed practice and
produces the highest quality fibres.
 It is best accomplished in stagnant or slowly-moving waters,
like ponds, bogs and streams. As a rule, the more stagnant
the water source, the more abundant the bacterial fauna and
the faster the retting process.

7.  The bundles are steeped in water at least 60 cm to 100 cm depth.
The retting process is completed in 8 to 30 days, days, when the
barks separate out easily from the stick or wood and the fibres
are ready for extraction.
 Dew retting is the preferred method in areas where water
sources are limited but that enjoy warm daytime temperatures
and heavy night time dews.
 Flax stalks are spread out evenly in a grassy field, where
the combination of air, sun, and dew causes fermentation which
dissolves much of the stem within 2-3 weeks.
 Flax can also be retted chemically, which speeds up the process.
It is, however, more harmful to both the environment and the
fibres themselves, and is therefore not preferred.

8. Scutching
 Dressing of Flax is carried out by the process called Scutching.
 Scutching involves scraping a small wooden knife down
the length of the fibres as they hang vertically, pulling the
broken woody bits away from the fibre.
 The separated bast fibres are next heckled, or combed through
a bed of nails that splits and polishes the fibres, and removes the
shorter tow fibres from the mix.
 These tow fibres can then be spun
into a coarse yarn from which
low-quality linen products are made.

9. Spinning
 The separated flax fibres, called stricks, are traditionally spun by
hand using a Distaff.
 A distaff is simply a long vertical pole that attaches to a spinning
wheel from which the fibres are hung. This helps keep the fibres
organized and prevents them from turning into a tangled mess.
 Spinning involves twisting together the drawn out strands of fibre
to form yarns, then winding the yarn onto a Bobbin, or spool.
Bobbin

10. Weaving
 Linen yarn is generally woven into sheets--a process wherein
multiple threads are interlaced both horizontally and vertically
on a loom.
 Occasionally, linen yarn is also knit, or formed into fabric by
creating consecutive rows of loops that intertwine with one
another.
 By virtue of these loops, knit fabrics have a degree of stretch
inherent in them, and because linen yarn has no elasticity, it is
quite difficult to knit and so more frequently woven.

11. Morphology of Linen

12. Cross section of Linen

13. PHYSICAL PROPERTIES
 Tensile Strength: Linen is a strong fibre. It has a tenacity of 5.5 to
6.5 gm/den. The strength is greater than cotton fibre.
 Elongation at break: Linen does not stress easily. It has an elongation
at break of 2.7 to 3.5 %.
 Colour: The colour of linen fibre is yellowish to grey.
 Length: 18 to 30 inch in length.
 Lustre: It is brighter than cotton fibre and it is slightly silky.
 Elastic Recovery: Linen fibre has not enough elastic recovery
properties like cotton fibre.

14.  Specific Gravity: Specific gravity of linen fibre is 1.50.
 Moisture Regain (MR %): Standard moisture regain is 10 to 12%.
 Resiliency: Very poor.
 Effect of Heat: Linen has an excellent resistance to degradation
by heat. It is less affected than cotton fibre by the
heat.
 Effect of Sun Light: Linen fibre is not affected by the sun light as
others fibre. It has enough ability to protect
sun light.

15. CHEMICAL PROPERTIES
 Effect of Acids: Linen fibre is damaged by highly densified acids but
low dense acids does not affect if it is wash instantly
after application of acids.
 Effects of Alkalis: Linen has an excellent resistance to alkalis. It does
not affected by the strong alkalis.
 Effects of Bleaching Agents: Cool chlorine and hypo-chlorine
bleaching agent does not affect the
linen fibre properties.
 Effect of Organic Solvent: Linen fibre has high resistance to normal
organic solvents.
 Dyes: It is not suitable to dye. But it can be dye by direct and vat
dyes.

16.  Effect of Micro Organism: Linen fibre is attacked by fungi and
bacteria. Mildews will feed on linen
fabric, rotting and weakling the materials.
Mildews and bacteria will flourish on linen
under hot and humid condition. They can
be protected by impregnation with certain
types of chemicals. Copper Nephthenate is
one of the chemical.
 Effects of Insects: Linen fibre does not attacked by moth-grubs or
beetles.

17. USES
Apparel:
Dresses,
Suits,
Separates,
Skirts,
Jackets,
Pants,
Blouses,
Shirts,
Children's wear etc.
Linen is used as apparel material due to its comfort and tensile
strength.

18. Home Fashion :
Curtains,
Draperies,
Upholstery,
Bedspreads,
Table linens,
Sheets,
Dish towels etc.

19. Source of Information
Introduction and Manufacture – Report by Deck Towel
http://www.decktowel.com/pages/how-linen-is-made-from-flax-to-fabric
Properties and Uses - Textilelearner
http://textilelearner.blogspot.in/2012/01/linen-fiber-characteristics-of-linen.htm

20. Efforts by
Pranav Kachhawah
Meet Patel
Sy B.Tech Dyes