Essential Oil Development Presentation

1. Flavours, Fragrances & Essential Oils Art, Agriculture,Science, Industry & Entrepreneurship Presentation by Murray Hunter © Murray Hunter 2007

3. Introduction Some Generic Global Issues

4. Global Warming, The Food and Economic Crisis

5. The Rural Crisis

6. Average age of farmers in Malaysia

8. Templating of Natural Aromatic Molecules

9. Templating of Natural Aromatic Molecules

10. Sustainability

14. Research

16. Desirable Research Model

18. RM 4,200,000

19. RM 200,000

20. Specific Issues & Challenges To Malaysia

21. Biodiversity

22. Low Crop Diversity in Malaysia

23. Limited number of students interested in natural product chemistry & agro-entrepreneurship Very few world class professors

24. What are essential oils?

26. Concretes and Absolutes Volatiles and waxes extracted from plant material with hydrocarbon solvents (usually benzene and hexane) through washing and removal of the volatile solvent with distillation. A waxy aromatic substance remaining is called a concrete. The concrete is washed with alcohol to remove the volatile materials and ethanol removed through vacuum distillation to leave an absolute.

27. The Natural Aromatic Product Family

28. Raw Herbs Fresh Consumption Dried Fermented Extracts Medicinal Powders Medicinal Beverages Essential Oils & Other Volatiles Flavour & Fragrance Personal Care & Cosmetics Standardised Extracts Phytopharmaceutical Products Fractions & Isolates Bioactive Compounds Prescription & OTC Drugs Figure 1: The Family Tree of Herb Derivatives Agricultural Application Traditional Herbal Medicines Aromatherapy Enzymes

29. The Biotechnology Pyramid Genomics Fermentation Micro-propagation Mutagenesis Thermodynamic Processes Green Biotechnology Reframed Disciplines White Biotechnology Red Biotechnology Micro-organisms

30. The Nature of the Industry

31. Hunter 1996

35. The Size of the Essential Oil Market

36. The market size for Natural Raw Material for the Flavor and Fragrance Market is USD650 M Essential Oil Production USD 650 million Fragrance & Flavour Production USD 20 Billion

37. Ratio of Natural to Synthetic Materials Used in the Flavour & Fragrance Industry Essential Oils & Natural Aromatic Materials 13% Synthetic Raw Materials 87%

39. Fragrance Flavors Flavor/Fragrance Split 2002

42. The World Essential Oil Map

44. Top Twenty Essential Oils Produced in the World Essential Oil Botanical Name Volume (Tonnes) Under Threat Cosmetics Under Threat Biocides Under threat Fragrance Orange Citrus sinensis 26000 X X Cornmint Mentha Arvensis 4300 Eucalyptus Euc. globulus 3728 X X X Citronella Cym winterianus 2830 X X X Peppermint Mentha piperita 2367 Lemon Citrus limon 2158 X X Euc. Citriodora Eucalyptus citriodora 2092 X X X Clove Leaf Syzygium aromaticum 1915 X X X Cedarwood (US) Juniperus virginiana 1640 Litsea cubeba Litsea cubeba 1005 X X Sassafras (Brazil) Ocotea pretiosa 1000 X X Lime Citrus aurantifolia 973 X X Spearmint Mentha spicata 851 Cedarwood (China) Chamaecyparis funebris 800 Lavandin Lavandula intermedia 768 X X Sassafras (China) Cinnamomum micranthum 750 X X Camphor Cinnamomum camphora 725 Coriander Coriandrum sativum 710 Grapefruit Citrus paradisi 694 X X Patchouli Pogostemom cablin 563 X X

46. Wild Collection & Distillation Tea Tree Australia

47. Small Holder (Patchouli Indonesia)

48. Cambodia (Lemongrass, Cajuput)

49. Medium Size Plantation

50. Bridgestow Tasmania

51. Large Scale Production

52. Large Scale Plantation Tea Tree

54. Bi-Product (Citrus Fruits)

56. Tasmanian Industry Model

57. Sri Lanka Cinnamon Oils

59. The Issues

60. Market Turbulence

62. Wild Collection and Threatened Plant Species

64. Bargaining Power of Producers Bargaining Power of Producers

65. The Olfactory System & Odour Classification ?

66. The Human Olfactory System Odour molecules pass through the olfactory organ

67. Top Notes Middle Notes Base Notes The Structure of a Fragrance Bergamot oil, Rosewood oil (linalool), Linalyl acetate, Neroli oil, Ciste Oil Rose Oil 5%, Jasmin absolute 4%, Ylang Ylang Oil, Aldehyde C11, C12, Methyl ionone 8%, hydroxycitronellal 10%, Cinamic Alcohol, Styrax. Phenol ethyl alcohol, Phenylacetaldehyde Vetiveryl acetate, Sandalwood, Isoeugenol, Vanillin 1.5%, Coumarin 15%, Nitromusks 10% “ First Impression” in Perfume. High Volatile Citrus, Fresh, Green notes….. “ Heart of fragrance”. Intermediate Volale Floral, Aldehydic notes….. Basic of fragrance”. (Bottom) Low Volatile Woody, Powdery, Musky ….. 15-25% 30-40% 45-55%

68. Classification of Odours Curtis & Williams (1994)

69. Floral Family Descriptions

70. Woody Family Descriptions Animalic Family Descriptions

71. Balsamic Family Descriptions Herbaceous Family Descriptions Agrestic Family Descriptions

72. Green Family Descriptions Minty Family Descriptions Coniferous Family Description

73. Marine Family Descriptions Aldehydic Family Descriptions Medicated Family Descriptions

74. Fruity Family Descriptions Sub-Class (Citrus)

75. Spicy Family Description Miscellaneous Notes

76. Odour Characteristics Additional Characteristics

77. Fragrance Description Workshop

80. GC-MS Performance Test A Fragrance Development Lab A trained human more accurate than a GC-MS

81. Sample of a Flavour Chart

82. Uses and markets

83. Processed Food

84. Beverages

85. Fine Fragrance

86. Aromatherapy

87. Cosmetics & Personal Care

88. Household Products

89. Solvents

90. Pharmaceuticals

91. Herbs & Spices

92. Organic Agro-Chemicals

93. Natural Product Chemistry

94. A Green Factory UV Input Enzymes

99. Geraniol Trans-3,7-Dimethylocta-2,6-dien-ol Colourless liquid Stable Applications: Floral and most other perfumes Origin: Rose, Citronella, Geranium and Palmarosa Linalool 3,7-Dimethylocta-1,6-dien-3-ol Colourless Liquid Stable Applications: Almost universal application in fragrances, especially floral Origin: Rose, rosewood, Lavender, minor constituent of others

100. Biosynthesis and isomerization-cyclization of geranyl pyrophosphate

101. The biosynthesis and isomerisation process is undertaken by enzyme from the oil glands of plants in nonoterpene producing species

104. Octenol OH Oct-1-en-3-ol Colourless liquid Stable Strong, fatty, orange like, balsamic Applications: In the reconstruction of lavender and lavindin oils Origin: in some mushrooms and savory oil Citronellol 3,7-Dimethyloct-6-en-1-ol Colourless liquid Stable Applications: used extensively in florals Origin: Rose, citronella oils

105. Islam & Alcohol Ethanol (alcohol) is a ‘spirit’ odour substance It is a different chemical composition to alcohols used in flavour & fragrance Dodecan-1-ol Benzyl Alcohol Spirit alcohol forbidden in Islam for consumption (An-Nahl 16:67), but allowed in medicine.Many Islamic scholars allow it for use on the skin.

114. Extraction theory and practice

116. The Gas Laws Energy can neither be created nor destroyed in any system of constant mass and that heat is energy First Law of Themodynamics Mechanical Equivalent of heat Energy exerts a force to move a mass against the forces of friction i.e., 540 kilocalies of latent heat required to vapourise 1 kilogram of water in one second requires 2268 watts of power Second Law of Thermodynamics Heat cannot be transferred from cooler to hotter body

117. The Gas Laws Fourier’s Law of Heat Conduction Heat will be conducted from one plane surface to another at a rate proportional to the area of contact and at the magnitude of differential temperatures Boyle’s Law At constant temperatures, the volume of a given mass of gas is inversely Proportional to the pressure on the gas Charles’ Law Under constant pressure, the volume of a given mass of gas is proportional To its absolute temperature

118. The Gas Laws Avogadro’s Law Equal volumes of ideal gases under equal conditions of temperature and pressure contain equal numbers of molecules All the above laws also apply to mixed vapours

119. Mixed Vapours If two immiscible liquids are in equilibrium with a common vapur space, each will contribute equally to any unit volume of that space. Thus, a mixture of two mutually insoluble liquids will boil when the temperature attains the point where the sum of the two characteristic vapour pressures becomes equal to the surrounding pressure. This is how distillation vapourises relatively high boiling materials under normal atmospheric pressure, without approaching the corresponding boiling temperatures of the essential oil;s constituents.

120. Mixed Vapours Molecules of water vapour a Molecules of water vapour b Liquid water a Liquid oil b Liquid water a Liquid oil b Molecules of water and gas vapour The composition of mixed vapours from immiscible liquids Eg. Water 99.6c Eg linalyl acetate 226c Together at 99.6c

121. The Principal of Essential oil Hydro Distillation The principal of all hydro distillation for the recovery of essential oils consists In bringing together two mutually insoluble liquids, water and oil, at a temperature close To the boiling point of the more volatile of the two, the water, so that the addition Of a small extra vapour pressure from the oil, will cause the mixture’s total pressure To equalise to the surrounding pressure. Dalton’s Law

122. Releasing Oil from Plant Materials In steam distillation water condenses of plant surfaces and latent heat surrounds the material and raises volatile materials to boiling point

123. Releasing Oil from Plant Materials Herb surface Water liquid mixed liquids oil liquids water liquids Vapour phase 98c saturated mixed vapour General vapour space 99c Region of oil vapour elution Method of Oil Release through Putative Impression from Leaves

125. The Time-Steam-Yield Rate Relationship for a Distillation

126. . The Distinct Stages of Distillation and During the Second Phase for Sweet Basil Oil

127. Slightly Soluble (<500ppm) Moderately Soluble (501-1999ppm) Very Soluble (>2000ppm) Aldehyde C11 Aldehyde C12 (lauric) Aldehyde C12 MNA Amyl cinnamic aldehyde Amyl salicylate Benzyl salicylate Cedrol Citronellol Citronellyl butyrate Citronellyl formate Eudesmol Geranyl formate Limonene Linalyl acetate a -Pinene Calamene 1,8-Cineole Nerol Neryl acetate Rose oxide Benzlaldehyde Benzyl acetate Cinnamic alcohol Citronellyl acetate a- copanene Eugenol Geranial Geraniol Limonene Linalool Mentone Myrcene (E)-β- ocimene Phenylethylacetate Phenylethylalcohol Sabinene Terpinen-4-ol a- Terpineol Terpinolene

128. Practice of Distillation Different methods of distillation will be used according to: a) Structure of leaves and other plant materials b) “potential modification” of plant’s chemical constituents to heat c) Some resinous materials not volatile and wont react to distillation

129. Due to material distillation times with differ for various essential oils Lavender Mint

130. H&R Guide to Fragrance Ingredients

132. Schematic View of a Hydro-diffusion Distillation System

133. H&R Guide to Fragrance Ingredients

134. H&R Guide to Fragrance Ingredients

135. H&R Guide to Fragrance Ingredients

136. H&R Guide to Fragrance Ingredients

137. H&R Guide to Fragrance Ingredients

138. Solar Distillation

139. The Synthetics

140. Aroma Chemicals Derived from Terpenes

147. Some aroma chemicals

148. Aldehyde C16 (strawberry) Ethyl methyl phenyl glycidate (the methyl ester of methyl phenyl glycidic acid) Odourless liquid Used at low dosage levels for fruity notes in jasmines, lilac, rose and orange flower and as a sweetening agent Not reported in nature

149. Anisaldehyde 4-Methyoxybenzaldehyde Colourless liquid Used in lilac, gardenia, honeysuckle and other florals and to produce powdery notes A minor constituent of vanilla

150. Benzaldehyde Colourless Liquid Used in traces for floral fragrances and in higher quantities for industrial fragrances Found in bitter almond, peach, apricot, ylang ylang, cinnamon bark, cassia.

151. Benzyl Salicylate Colourless liquid Used as a solvent for crystaline, musk smelling aroma chemicals, as a blender and fixative for florals Naturally occurs in ylang ylang

152. Cedrol Colourless crystals Powerful odour used as a fixative in soap perfumes and household products Naturally occurs in cedarwood and cypress oils

153. Cinnamyl Alcohol 3-Phenylprop-2-1-ol White crystalline mass or pale yellow liquid Modifier and fixative in rose, hyacinth, lilac, muguet and other florals, particularly for soaps Found in cinnamon leaf oil

154. Coumarin 2-Hydroxycinnamic acid lactone Colourless crystals Used in chypre and fougere fragrances, lavenders and other herbal florals, usally as a fixative Found in Tonka bean absolutes, lavender oils

155. Dihydromyrcenol 2,6-Dimethyloct-7-en-2-ol Slightly coloured yellow liquid Major ingredient in base of citrus fragrances, as a refresher in lilac, lily of the valley and distinction in rose fragrances. Not reported in nature

156. Exaltolide (Firmenich) Colourless crystaline powder or clear liquid Used at very low dosages as a fixative and intensifier of other fragrance notes in fine fragrances Occurs in traces in angelica root oil cyclopentadecanolide 15-Hydroxypentadecanoic acid ketone

157. Hedione (Firmenich) Methyl dihydrojasmonate Colourless liquid Used extensively in floral fragrances to create radiance and diffusive power. Not reproted in nature

158. Cis -3-Hexenol Cis -Hex-3-en-1-ol (Leaf alcohol) Colourless to slightly green liquid In trace amounts for natral green foliage notes in florals Occurs widely in green leaves and many essential oils

159. Indole Colourless crystals Very lightly in solution as a floral enhancer in jasmines and heavy florals, together with some aldehydic fragrances Occurs in orange flower, jasmine

160. Alpha-Ionone 4-(2,6,6-Trimethylcyclohex-2-enyl)-but-3-en-2-one Pale yellow liquid In violet compositions, also rose, as a floraliser. Used to contribute to non-florals to enhance the powdery notes in heliotropes, and vanilla In boronia and cassie absolutes and other essential oils

161. Liliial (Givaudan-Roure) p-tert -Butyl alpha-methylhydrocinnamic aldehyde Colourless to pale yellow liquid Very widely used in florals as a floral fortifier Not reported in nature

162. Methyl Salicylate Methyl 2-hydroxybenzoate Colourless liquid In synthetic floral compositions, especially Ylang ylang and tuberose. Heavy florals. In trace amounts in light florals. In wintergreen oil, ylang ylang.

163. Phenyl ethyl alcohol 2-Phenylethylethanol Colourless liquid Widely used in florals, especially rose and with aldehydes. In rose oil, neroli, geranium and ylang ylang

164. Vertenex (IFF) P-tert-Butyl cyclohexyl acetate Colourless liquid Modifier, blender and sweetening agent for most perfumes. Not reported in nature

165. Vetiveryl acetate A mixture of bicyclo- and tricyclo- vetiveryl acetates Colourless liquid Effective in chypre, aldehydic and oriental fragrances for lifting and freshening. Also as a fixative. Not reported in nature

166. The Essential Oil Development Process

168. Screening Process

170. Value

178. Research Should be Focused Here

179. Mostly Imitation Here The Areas of Growth are Here

180. Other Potential Economic Products Herbal Tea, Food Flavouring, Spices Antibacterial, Antimicrobial, Antioxidant Dietary Supplement, Energy Drinks, Toiletries (soap, shampoo) , Aromatherapy and Fragrances Lemon Myrtle Dried leaf Spice extract Essential Oils Pharmaceutical Functional Food Nutraceutical Body Care Semi - Finished Finished Product Potential Product Development

182. Some Success factors

189. Threat of New Entrants Threat of competition from new technology (in past from petrochemicals) Bargaining Power Of suppliers Restrictions on The supply of beta-pinene The required feedstock Other producers of geraniol Industry competitiveness Intensity of rivalry Threat of substitutes Possible reformulation with other rose materials eg. Phenyl ethyl alcohol Bargaining power of buyers Concentration of usage into few major compounders strengthen buyer power Adapted from Porter, M. E, Competitive Advantage: Creating and Sustaining Superior Performance, New York, Free Press, 1985 Porter’s Five Force Analysis for Gernaiol

193. The Commitment

194. Adapted from Manitoba Agriculture

195. Agro-Tourism

197. 2. The Screening Process

198. To Development Process First Stage: Theoretical & Biological Screening Biological Screening Screening For Development Potential To Market Development Linked to all stages Regulatory Screening REACH, BPD, SCP, GRAS, etc

201. Bio-Prospecting Desktop Studies

205. Worksheet for Rough Calculation of Financial Viability at Initial Screening Stage 1. Costs of Crop Domestication Can they potential crop be domesticated into field production easily? If not, will biomass be wild-collected? What method would be most suitable for propagation, from seed, cuttings, tissue culture, other? Does nursery propagation of the potential crop require any other special care? What staffing will be required? What would be the approximate costs of achieving the above?

206. 2. Field Preparation and Infrastructure What overall infrastructure will be needed?, nursery, road access, fencing, outbuildings, farming equipment, etc. What land preparation is needed, land levelling and contouring, drainage, etc. Does the crop require large amounts of water to thrive during growth? Is there adequate water available through rainfall to satisfy this? Will irrigation be required? If so, what method? Will dams and catchment areas have to be constructed to ensure a plentiful water supply? What will be the approximate costs of this? Are there any other potential costs?

207. 3. Planting and Maintenance Approximately how long will the crop take from field planting to harvest maturity? How will the potential crop be planted?, manually/automated? What will be the costs involved? What would the approximate planting density be? Will nutrients have to be applied? If so, how regularly?, How much? What method will be used to apply them? What will be the approximate costs of this? How often are re-plantings required? After each harvest, after a number of seasons, after how many years, what are the costs involved to prepare for each re-planting?

208. 4. Harvesting, Extraction and Post Extraction Is harvest timing crucial?, ie, a time of day, a very short window in a particular month, etc What are the costs involved in achieving this harvest window? What method of harvest will be utilised? Manual, semi-mechanised, fully mechanised What would be the approximate costs of building the harvest equipment? What method of extraction will be required? Hydro-distillation, steam distillation, destructive distillation, vacuum distillation, solvent extraction, other What power sources will be utilised? What are their costs? How will spent biomass be dealt with? Does it have any economic value or can it be used back in the farming process? Is the technology understood for the above processes? If not, what will be the costs of acquiring it? What will be the fabrication costs to build the above? What regulations (ie., EPA) are relevant to the processes? And how much will development and compliance cost? Will specialist staff be required? What would the approximate cost of energy to oil yield?

209. 5. Estimated (guessed) Project Size and Yields How many hectares do you anticipate to cultivate? How many years will it take to achieve this? What (based on literature and other knowledge) would be the approximate biomass per hectare achievable? (min. and max. est.) Does the biomass have to be wilted, stored or otherwise processed before extraction? What would be the yield as a percentage of biomass after extraction?

210. 6. Estimated Financial Viability 1. Research costs = 2. Costs of crop domestication = 3. Field preparation and infrastructure costs = 4. Propagation, planting and maintenance costs = 5. Harvesting, extraction & post extraction costs = Total Capital Costs (1+3) = Total operational costs (2+4+5) = Total amount of oil yielded = Total oil value = Value – total operational costs = Return/total capital costs x 100 = Return on investment

215. Classes, Characteristics and Uses of Essential Oils Adapted from Naf (1989) and Petrzilka (1991) in Hunter (1995)

217. Evaluating the Characteristic Strengths and Weaknesses of Essential Oils The novelty of a new essential oil The major factor determining the novelty is the perceived uniqueness of the essential oil’s organoleptic profile. Thus, the degree of novelty is limited by the closeness of potential substitutes. The concept of novelty extends to essential oils that are more cost effective sources of natural aroma chemicals. New natural sources of aroma chemicals would also fit into this criteria of novelty.

218. The potential uses and applications of a new essential oil Without perfumers and flavourists perceiving applications potential, a new essential oil will remain in the realm of curiosity. Time, effort and imagination on the part of perfumers and flavourists is required to discover useful applications for new essential oils. It is under this criteria that most new essential oils will struggle to find acceptance as a new aromatic material.

219. The closeness of any substitutes It is difficult to find essential oils that cannot be duplicated by reconstitutions. New essential oils with close substitutes are of little value to the flavour and fragrance industry, unless they can offer a significant cost or stability advantage. The only exception is when a new essential oil is a source of a natural aroma material.

220. The Toxicity The cost of proving a new material is safe to use in flavours and fragrances is a major obstacle to the development of new aromatic materials. The industry has an impeccable reputation for self regulation and added EU regulations increases the cost of preparing dossiers on new materials even more. In markets outside the EU, most international flavour and fragrance houses would not consider using a new essential oil unless it meets IFRA safety and toxicity recommendations and is included on the GRAS list.

221. The general consistency of quality and supply Natural material will vary in quality according to geographic origin, type of soil, level of nutrients in the soil, climate and weather, rainfall, time of harvest, season, method of extraction, altitude and the incidence of pests and diseases. Likewise there are risks with continual supply of natural materials because of adverse weather conditions, changes in climate, floods and other natural disasters, wars, political upheavels and the inexperience of new producers. Launching new consumer products require large investments on the part of the end product manufacturer. Flavour and fragrance houses do not want to be placed in a position of being unable to supply a manufacturer with a flavour or fragrance compound because of the unavailability of a raw material.

222. The prevailing market/product trends Market and product trends slowly evolve. Changes in market trends are the result of complex forces, including technology, which makes new trends possible, advertising, and cultural influences upon consumer tastes and preferences. A particular essential oil may become more or less important to the flavour and fragrance industry, depending upon these trends.

223. The current level of technology New technology advances influence the value of existing aromatic materials to the flavour and fragrance industry. The development of new essential oil reconstitutions are aimed at eliminating some of the potential toxicity and solubility problems of existing essential oils. Reconstitutions are generally more stable and cheaper than their more expensive natural counterparts. As better and more cost effective reconstitutions are developed in the future, the use of some essential oils will decline. Since the advent of more sophisticated analytical techniques, like GC-MS, headspace analysis, electronic noses, aroma chemical and specialty product manufacturers have been better able to isolate powerful aromatic molecules from essential oils and synthesise these compounds. The discovery of new aroma chemicals in essential oils due to increased equipment sensitivity is more likely to lead to synthesis rather than cultivation.

226. Second Stage: Development Process Environmental Analysis Evaluation of Capabilities Market Analysis Technical Development Opportunities & Threats Finance, Knowledge, Land Tenure, etc Market, Customers, Options Project Development in the Field Commercialisation Strategies Market Development

227. Development Process

233. Farming set up

236. Constituent Variations

237. Yield Variations

239. Lachowicz, K., J., Jones, G., P., Briggs, D., R., Bienvenu, F., E., Palmer, M., V., Ting, S., T., and Hunter, M., Characteristics of Essential Oil from Basil (Ocimum basilicum L.) Grown in Australia, Journal of Agriculture and Food Technology , Vol. 44, No. 3., 1996, pp. 877-881. Different Major Chemical and Olfactory Profiles of Five Basil Oils Sample Linalool Methylchavical Olfactory Profile India 14.2% 77.5% A grassy herbaceous and mildly spicy predominating note, with a herbaceous subsidiary note; back notes slightly fruity. French 55.3% 10.9% A smmoth fresh and diffusive herbaceous note with harmonized cool anisic and slightly balsamic subsidiary notes and warm woody back notes. Australian 34.3% 34.7% A clean vegetableptype note with a cool herbaceous menthol-like subsidiary note; a green and grassy back note. Seychelles 27.7% 40.2% A sharp diffusive clean grassy herbaceous note, with a fruity anisic subsidiary note and a very slightly camphoraceous back note. Reunion (Australian grown) 3.4% 75.7% A sharp, if not somewhat dry, anisic note; the subsidiary notes were herbaceous with a slight sweet camphoraceous floral back note.

240. Topographic Variations Mentha piperata Mint

241. Texture Layer Depth Organic Material Moisture Content pH Drainage & Evaporation, etc

245. Require Uniformity In Product

246. Genetic material Chemotype Variances for Melaleuca cajuputi Geographic Variances within a single chemotype

247. Constituent Variations Slee, M., U., 1995

248. Yield Variations

249. Different Major Chemical and Olfactory Profiles of Five Basil Oils Hunter et al, 1996 Sample Linalool Methylchavical Olfactory Profile India 14.2% 77.5% A grassy herbaceous and mildly spicy predominating note, with a herbaceous subsidiary note; back notes slightly fruity. French 55.3% 10.9% A smmoth fresh and diffusive herbaceous note with harmonized cool anisic and slightly balsamic subsidiary notes and warm woody back notes. Australian 34.3% 34.7% A clean vegetableptype note with a cool herbaceous menthol-like subsidiary note; a green and grassy back note. Seychelles 27.7% 40.2% A sharp diffusive clean grassy herbaceous note, with a fruity anisic subsidiary note and a very slightly camphoraceous back note. Reunion (Australian grown) 3.4% 75.7% A sharp, if not somewhat dry, anisic note; the subsidiary notes were herbaceous with a slight sweet camphoraceous floral back note.

253. Land Preparation Leveling and contouring Drainage

254. Objective of Trials to Develop Agronomy Plan Peppermint Management

259. Trials Response of Major Constituents to Nitrogen Ovens Valley, Victoria, Australia, 1991/92

260. Response of Yield to Nitrogen Level Persicaria odoratum Ovens Valley, Victoria, Austalia (91,92)

261. Biomass Production – Lemon Myrtle

263. Planting & Maintenance Post harvest practices Irrigation Methods Planting & Harvesting Methods

267. Overhead Sprinklers Drip Irrigation Capillary Sand Beds Installation cost Moderate Moderate/High High Maintenance Low High High Durability Excellent Low Moderate Labour Low Moderate Low Water Distribution Fair Good Good Water Use Efficiency Poor, wasteful Good Good Pump Requirement Large, high pressure Small, low pressure Small, low pressure Water Volume Requirement Large Small Small Wind Influence Serious None None

270. Randomised Complete Block Design for a Field Experiment.

272. Harvesting Manual Automated

273. Selected method often restricted by type of crop Most herbaceous crops can be mowed Many flowers must be hand picked Innovative systems can be designed and developed

274. Harvest Timing Critical for Some Crops ( Mentha piperata )

275. Harvesting Maturity Desired Standard Tea Tree (Melaleuca alternifolia)

276. Selection of Extraction System Scale up Pilot Plant Large Systems

277. Selected method often restricted by type of crop Most herbaceous crops can be mowed Many flowers must be hand picked Innovative systems can be designed and developed

278. Harvest Timing Critical for Some Crops ( Mentha piperata )

279. Harvesting Maturity Desired Standard Tea Tree (Melaleuca alternifolia)

291. Standards

295. Hunter (2006)

297. Regulatory Requirements

304. Biocidal Products Directive

327. Total Cost for BPD Dossier Compliance ~ US$4 million +

328. REACH Registration, Evaluation and Authorisation of Chemicals

332. Tests Required for Original REACH Registration B) Greater than 10MT p.a. Light-stability for polymers Long-term extractivity for polymers Skin irritation (unless classified from Annex V data) Eye irritation (unless classified from Annex V data) In vitro gene mutation assay Acute oral toxicity Acute inhalation or dermal toxicity 28-day (or 90-day) repeat-dose study in the rat (normally oral exposure) Developmental toxicity screening study (OECD 421) Developmental toxicity study Toxicokinetics assessment (a prediction based on the available data) Acute fish toxicity Activated sludge respiration inhibition test Hydrolysis test Adsorption/desorption screening test Plus A) requirements Deadline for Registration 6 years from REACH enacting legislation

333. Tests Required for Original REACH Registration C) Greater than 100MT p.a. Stability in organic solvents and identification of degradants Dissociation constant Viscosity Reactivity to container material In vitro Mutagenicity studies 28-day or 90-day repeat-dose study in the rat (if not part of the Annex VI data) Developmental toxicity studies in two species (if not part of the Annex VI data) Two-generation fertility study in the rat (if there are adverse findings from the 28-day or 90-day studies) 21-day Daphnia reproduction study Chronic fish toxicity study Simulation test on the ultimate degradation in surface water Soil simulation test Sediment simulation test Fish bioaccumulation study (unless there is a low predicted bioaccumulation potential, e.g. from Log PoW < 3) Further adsorption/desorption study 14-day earthworm toxicity Study of the effects on soil micro-organisms Short-term toxicity to plants Plus A) and B) requirements Deadline for Registration 3 years from REACH enacting legislation

337. Derelict vanilla plantation, Seychelles. EU/IFRA policy will repeat similar scenes.

338. Old clove distillation works, Zanzibar before eugenol was classified as R36-43. Subsequently became derelict!

340. Top Twenty Essential Oils Produced in the World Essential Oil Botanical Name Volume (Tonnes) Under Threat Cosmetics Under Threat Biocides Under threat Fragrance Orange Citrus sinensis 26000 X X Cornmint Mentha Arvensis 4300 Eucalyptus Euc. globulus 3728 X X X Citronella Cym winterianus 2830 X X X Peppermint Mentha piperita 2367 Lemon Citrus limon 2158 X X Euc. Citriodora Eucalyptus citriodora 2092 X X X Clove Leaf Syzygium aromaticum 1915 X X X Cedarwood (US) Juniperus virginiana 1640 Litsea cubeba Litsea cubeba 1005 X X Sassafras (Brazil) Ocotea pretiosa 1000 X X Lime Citrus aurantifolia 973 X X Spearmint Mentha spicata 851 Cedarwood (China) Chamaecyparis funebris 800 Lavandin Lavandula intermedia 768 X X Sassafras (China) Cinnamomum micranthum 750 X X Camphor Cinnamomum camphora 725 Coriander Coriandrum sativum 710 Grapefruit Citrus paradisi 694 X X Patchouli Pogostemom cablin 563 X X

341. Flavour & Fragrance House Operations

342. Perfume Brief Type of product Market Positioning Price range Dosage Expectations Cost range Product manufacturing methods Shelf life Lead time

343. Fragrance Attributes Features Benefits Signal Attributes Base Cover Impact Odour Profile Malodour Counteractant Substantivity Ingredients Eg essential oils Tangible Benefits Pleasant Fragrance Lasting Fragrance Offensive Odour Cover Intangible Benefits Romance Well-Being Caring Security Lifestyle Association Strength Performance Variant Indicator of Use Life Status Freshness Structure of Attributes for a Fragrance in a Product

345. The Perfume Development Fragrance Matching New Fragrance according to customer requirement

346. Testing in Application Test & Evaluation

347. Perfume Compounding

348. QA and Tracking

349. Product Manufacture

350. Organic Farming

352. Comparison of the Industrial and Biological Models of Agriculture Industrial Model Community Model Energy Intensive Information Intensive Linear Process Cyclical Processes Farm as a Factory Farm as an Ecosystem Enterprise Separation Enterprise Integration Single Enterprise Many Enterprises Monoculture Diversity of Plants and Animals Low-Value Products Higher Value Products Single Use Equipment Multiple Use Equipment Passive Marketing Active Marketing

353. Certification and Value Organic Products have 3 times the value as conventional crops

354. Some Essential Oil Profiles

355. Rose Oil ( Rosa damascena) Rose alcohols, methyleugenol, beta-damascenone and (-)-cis-rose oxide Produced in Bulgaria, Turkey, Morocco, Thailand, India, China major constituents: (-)-citronellol, certain specific paraffines, geraniol and nerol, phenethyl alcohol, and methyleugenol . Others (-)-cis-rose oxide , beta-damascenone , beta - ionone, 1-p-menthen-9-al, and rose furan (340 other constituents) Method of Extraction: Hydro-distillation of flowers

356. Rosemary Oil ( Rosmarinus officinalis) (+)-borneol, (+)-bornyl acetate, (+)-camphor, (+)-alpha-terpineol, (+)-verbenone and 1,8-cineole Method of Extraction: Steam distillation of flowering tops Produced in Spain, Morocco and Tunisia Major Constituents : (+)- Borneol, (+)- verbenone , (+)- Alpha - pinene, (+)- bornyl acetate, (+)- camphor and 1,8-cineole

357. Acacia Absolute ( Acacia decurrens var. dealbata (Mimosaceae) 2-hydroxyacetophenone Origin: Eastern Australia Major Constituents: 2-hydroxyacetophenone Method of Extraction: Solvent extraction

358. Agarwood ( A quilaria agallocha) karanones in Agarwood Origin: Western Australia, Indonesia, Thailand, Laos Constituents: multitude of oxygenated sesquiterpenes Method of Extraction: infect with a mould, react by producing an aromatic resin, oil extracted by supercritical CO2 from the oleoresin

359. Ambrette seed Oil Abelmoschus moschatus 5(Z)-tetradecen-14-olide ambrettolide Major Constituents: macrocyclic musks 5 ( Z )- tetradecen-14-olide and 7(Z)-hexadecen-16-olide, also called ambrettolide

360. Basil Oil Ocimum basilicum estragol, eugenol, methyleugenol and methyl cinnamate linalool, 1,8-cineole and caryophyllene Major constituents: linalool and methylchavicol (estragol), eugenol, methyleugenol, methyl cinnamate, 1,8-cineole, caryophyllene Extraction method: Steam Distillation

361. Bay Leaf Oil Pimenta racemosa chavicol, eugenol and myrcene Main Constituents: chavicol, eugenol and myrcene Method of Extraction: Steam Distillation Origin: West Indies

362. Beeswax Absolute phenylacetic acid and methyl phenylacetate Main Constituents: phenylacetic acid and methyl phenylacetate and lower esters (multitude of other odourants) Method of extraction: extraction of the beeswax with ethanol followed by evaporation, yielding around 1 % of absolute useful for creating honeyed flower nuances in luxury perfumes

363. Benzoin Resin Styrax benzoin , S . tonkinensis coniferyl benzoate and cinnamyl cinnamate Produced mainly in Asiatic countries such as Indonesia, Sumatra, Java, Laos, Thailand and Vietnam. Two varieties of benzoin gums exist in the trade: benzoin gum Siam from S. tonkinensis and benzoin gum Sumatra from S. benzoin coniferyl benzoate (65-75 %), p-coumaryl benzoate (10-15 %), cinnamyl cinnamate (styracine) (0.5-6%) , benzoic acid (12 %), siaresinolic acid (6 %) and vanillin (0.3 %).Cinnamyl cinnamate has a mild, soft and very tenacious balsamic-floral odour. However, the odour of the balsam is influenced by minor amounts of volatile constituents like benzaldehyde and methyl benzoate. Benzoin gum Sumatra is richer in cinnamates, cinnamic acid and styrene Method of extraction: Distillation

364. Buchu leaf Oil Agathosma betulina 'sulphur-terpenoids' from buchu leaf Origin: South Africa Extraction: Steam distillation of the leaves Major Constituents:menthone and isomenthone, diosphenol, limonene, pulegone and isopulegone . constituents responsible for the characteristic black currant odour are p - menthane-8-thiol-3-one ( mercapto - menthone ) and its S - acetate ( ca . 3 %).

365. Boronia Absolute Boronia megastigma examples of boronia odorants derived from carotene: beta-ionone, 3a-hydroxymegastigm-7(E)-ene-9-one and megastigm-7(E)-ene-3,9-dione Production: Tasmania, Australia Method of Extraction: The flowers are extracted with petroleum ether, yielding a waxy concentrate after evaporation. The concentrate is then extracted with alcohol, chilled, filtered and finally evaporated at reduced pressure (Rota-Vapor).

366. Coriander Oil Coriandrum sativum 2(E)-decenal and 2(E)-dodecenal (+)-linalool Main constituents: The green leaves have a powerful and penetrating, 'aldehydic' aroma dominated by 2-alkenals, e.g. 2(E)-decenal and 2(E)-dodecenal , (+)-linalool Method of Extraction: Steam Distillation

367. Cedarwood Oil ( Cedrus atlantica) atlantone cedrol and cedrene Origin: USA and China Main Constituents: 30 % of (+)- cedrol, alpha - cedrene and other sesquiterpenes used for the synthesis of advanced odorants of the 'precious - woody' and ambery type

368. Michellia Champaca Origin: India and China (some in Thailand) methyl benzoate and (E,E)-alpha-farnesene from champak headspace Identified Constituents: Methyl benzoate, phenethyl alcohol, phenylacetonitrile, indole and methyl anthranilate, along with sesquiterpenes, e . g . ( E,E )- alpha - farnesene, constituted the body of the headspace . Moreover, ionones, e . g . dihydro - beta - ionone, ( Z )- methyl - epi - jasmonate, a number of aromatic esters, etc . , have been identified in extracts from the flowers Method of extraction: Solvent Extraction

369. Clove Oil ( Syzygium aromaticum) Bud eugenol, eugenyl acetate caryophyllene Origin: Madagascar, Zanzibar and Indonesia (Limited) The fragrant buds contain about 20 % essential oil . Eugenol ( ca . 80 %) , eugenyl acetate and caryophyllene are the major constituents . Extraction Method: Steam Distillation

370. Lavender Oil ( Lavandula angustifolia) (-)-linalool, (-)-linalyl acetate (-)-lavandulol and (-)-lavandulyl acetate True lavender oil is steam distilled from the freshly cut flowering tops and stalks of Lavandula angustifolia The classical cultivation area is in the Haute Provence region in France at an altitude of 600-1500 m, where this species grows naturally . The distillation takes place at small local distilleries, collectively producing around 100 t yearly . Today, however, L. angustifolia is grown for oil production in several countries . (-)-( R )- linalool ( 35 %) and its acetate ( 40 %) are the most important constituents of lavender oil . (-)-( R )- lavandulol and its acetate are characteristic, as well as 1-octen-3-yl acetate . More than 300 components have been identified, among them a number of sesquiterpenoids and a multitude of odour - determining trace constituents . Coumarin makes itself conspicuous in particular from the withered flowers

371. Lemon Oil ( Citrus limon) citral 3,7-dimethyl-2(E),6- octadienal (+)-limonene Lemons are cultivated primarily for their juice . Italy is one of the major exporters . Lemon juice is rich in citric acid and vitamin C ( ascorbic acid ) and is used in cooking for its freshness and sourness . However, the characteristic lemon flavour is due to the essential oil of the peel and is dominated by the aldehyde citral ( geranial + neral, ~ 5 %) combined with smaller amounts of linear aliphatic aldehydes ( C7-C13 ). As with most citrus oils, (+)- limonene is by far the major component ( ~ 65 %) Method of extraction: Expression or steam distillation

372. Lemongrass Oil ( Cymbopogon citratus) citral geranial : neral = 4 : 1 main constituent of lemongrass oil is citral ( 75 %) , present as a 4:1 mixture of geranial, 3,7-dimethyl-2 ( E ) ,6-octadienal, and neral, 3,7-dimethyl-2 ( Z ) ,6-octadienal The development of newer synthetic methods in terpene chemistry has made these oils less important

373. Ginger Oil ( Zingiber officinale) citral, beta-sesquiphellandrene, zingeberene, and gingerols/shogaols The fresh ginger rhizome is a versatile ingredient of the far eastern cuisine, and is now commonly used in most of the world. Its flavour is lemony-balsamic and its taste is medium hot.The lemony character of fresh ginger is due to citral. Major components of the essential oil are the sesquiterpenes beta-sesquiphellandrene and zingiberene. The 'sharp' constituents, causing the burning sensation on the mucous membranes, are substituted phenols (gingerols/shogaols) Extraction Method: Steam Distillation Origin: Indonesia, India, Sri Lanka, China

374. Massoia Bark Oil ( Cryptocarya massoy) Origin: New Guinea and Irian Jaya Highlands Massoia bark has a sweet, coconut-like aroma and is steam distilled to yield massoia bark oil. The bark is obtained by cutting the tree at the base, making circular incisions at one meter intervals, lifting the bark off and allowing it to dry. Each tree yields on average 65 kg of air dried bark. C-10 massoia lactone C-12 massoia lactone Extraction: hydro - distillation of the bark, heartwood and fruits of the massoia tree afford pale yellow - coloured oils in 0.7, 1.2 and 1.0 % yields, respectively Constituents: C-10 massoia lactone, or 5,6-dihydro-6-pentyl-2H-pyran-2-one, (65-68 %), and the C-12 massoia lactone, or 5,6-dihydro-6-heptyl-2H-pyran-2-one, (17-28 %), while the major fruit oil constituent is benzyl benzoate (68%)

375. Nutmeg (mace) Oil ( Myristica fragrans) (+)-sabinene, (+)-1-terpinen-4-ol safrole, myristicin and elemicin Oil consisting of approximately 90 % terpenes, with sabinene, alpha- and beta-pinene, and 1-terpinen-4-ol as major components. However, a number of phenol ethers play a decisive role for the overall fragrance, three of them are above. Production: Indonesia Extraction Method: Hydro Distillation

376. Pandanus Oil ( Pandanus odoratissimus) phenethyl methyl ether pandanol Origin: native of South East Asia and is much cultivated on the Indian East Coast The flowers are hydro-distilled to yield a 'kewda attar phenethyl methyl ether ( pandanol) (38 %), together with terpinen-4-ol (19 %), alpha-terpineol (8 %) and phenethyl alcohol (7 %) [79]. Phenethyl alcohol and its derivatives are common odorants in flowers

377. Orange Oil Sweet ( Citrus sinensis) (all-E)-alpha-sinensal 2,6,10-trimethyl-2(E),6(E),9(E), 11-dodecatetraenal (+)-limonene Major Contstituents: (+)-limonene is the major component, but the distinctive fresh sweetness from the orange peel is mainly due to the sesquiterpene aldehyde sinensal, especially the isomer (all-E)-alpha-sinensal, whose odour detection threshold is as low as 0.05 ppb. Orange oil, obtained by cold-pressing of the peels, is made in several countries in conjunction with orange juice production.

378. Patchouli Oil ( Pogostemon cablin) (-)-patchoulol and norpatchoulenol Obtained by steam distillation under pressure or CO2- extraction of the dried leaves Patchouli is mostly grown in Indonesia There are no synthetic equivalents of the patchouli scent. Main Constituents: (-)-patchoulol (30-40 %). However, it is maintained that norpatchoulenol, present in only 0.3-0.4 %, is playing a principal part in the overall odour picture.

379. Pepper Oil ( Piper nigrum) (+)-3-carene piperine Main producer: Sarawak, Malaysia Main Constituents: The pepper seeds contain avolatile oil and the non-volatile compound piperine, the latter being responsible for the burning effect on the mucous membranes.Also, cyclic monoterpenes with 3-carene as the major component (around 35 %). Moreover, a number of hitherto unidentifiedsesquiterpenes probably contribute to its character. Extraction: Steam Distillation of the crushed seeds

380. Peppermint Oil ( Mentha piperita) (-)-menthol, (-)-menthyl acetate, (-)-menthone and (+)-menthofurane Origin: USA, China, India and Australia The main component of peppermint oil is (-)-menthol (ca. 50 %) followed by (-)-menthone (ca. 20 %) and(-)-menthyl acetate (ca. 10 %). A characteristic of peppermint oil is the high content of (+)-menthofurane (ca. 3 %, sometimes much higher) and a number of specific sesquiterpenes, one of them viridiflorol. Extraction Method: Steam Distillation

381. Petitgrain Oil ( Citrus aurantium) (-)-linalyl acetate (-)-linalool trace constituents from petitgrain oil Method of Extraction: Steam distillation of the leaves (-)-Linalyl acetate and (-)-linalool in the proportion 2:1 make up about 80 % of the oil, but a great number of trace constituents, a few of which are shown above, contribute to its special character Azzaro pour Homme (Azzaro 1978). Origin: Paraguay

382. Shitake Mushrooms ( Lentinus edodes) lenthionine Main Flavour Constituent: 1,2,3,5,6- pentathiepane, called lenthionine

383. Star Anise ( Illicium verum) (E)-anethole shikimic acid anisatin Vietnam and southern China Main component (80-90 %) is (E)-anethole and (E)-anethole Steam distillation

384. Vanilla ( Vanilla planifolia) vanillin and a vanilla vitispirane fruits ('beans' or 'pods') are harvested before they ripen, but the powerful vanilla flavour only develops after a several months of special curing. The beans are spread in the sun in the morning, then covered and kept enclosed during the night. After a while the green beans turn brown, and the glycosidically bound vanillin is slowly liberated. Vanillin, or 4-hydroxy-3-methoxybenzaldehyde, is by far the major odorant from vanilla, but several additional aroma compounds are formed during the curing process (more than 100 are identified). Guaicol, creosol, acetovanillone, vanillyl alcohol and methyl salicylate seem to be of importance, together with vitispiranes Production: West Indies, Madagascar and Bali

385. Ylang Ylang (Cananga odorata) benzyl acetate (ca. 25 %), p-cresyl methyl ether (ca. 20 %), methyl benzoate (ca. 5 %), methyl salicylate, cinnamyl acetate, (-)-linalool (ca. 15 %), geranyl acetate (ca. 10 %) , farnesyl acetate (ca. 3 %), as well as a number of other sesquiterpenes and their oxygenated derivatives, e.g. muurolol T (ca. 2 %) Extraction Method: Steam distillation of the flowers Origin: Indonesia, Madagascar

386. Jasmine Absolute ( Jasminum grandiflorum) (-)-jasmine lactone, (Z)-jasmone, (-)- and (-)-epi-methyl jasmonate. benzyl acetate, p-cresol and indole . J. sambac (Z)-3,4-epoxyhex-1-yl acetate and trans-2-ethyl-3-acetoxy-tetrahydrofurane from Arabian jasmine, J. sambac Egypt is the main producer, but demand islowering. In recent years reconstructed oils have been available, almost identical with the natural product, but at a much lower prize. Extraction Method: Solvent extraction

387. Melaleuca bracteata Source of Aromatic Ethers that can Assist in Relieving Plant Stress Cultivates Well in Thailand Rapidly Growing Market 1,8-cineole A-terpineol Methyl eugenol

388. Artemisia annua A source of artemisinin for treatment of malaria World Shortage Straight forward cultivation

389. Backhousia citriodora (Lemon Myrtle) High Investment to Expand Industry in Australia Strong Demand as an Ingredient for tea Good Crop to Grow in Most Parts of Thailand Citral (geranial 51.43 % and neral 42.12 % )

390. Eucalyptus citriodora Good Monsoon Crop Easy to Cultivate Oil is a bi-product Excellent & High Valued Hard Wood One year for oil 10 years for timber Percentage of oil yields is 0.9 %. citronellal (88.62%), β-pinena (0.16%), 1, 8-cineol (0.32%), 5-hepten (0.14%), linalool (0.12%), citronellol (0.52%), isopulegol (0.33%), 3- cyclohexanol (3.66%)and β-citronellol (0.52%).

391. Lengkuas (Alpinia galanga) UV Properties Flavour Ingredient Easy to cultivate Niche Oil –specialised market kampheride, alpinin, galangin, methyl cinnamate , cincole, 1’-acetoxychavicol acetate, 1’-hydroxychavicol acetate, galantin-3-methyl ether, a-terpineol, 4-hydroxybenzaldehyde, trans -coniferyl diacetate, trans-p -courmaryl diacetate, a-bergamotene, b-bisabolene, borneol, borneol acetate, butanol acetate, campene, carveol I, carveol II, chavicol acetate, citronellol acetate, a-copaene, curcumene, p-cymene, p-cymenol, eugenol methyl ether, 1’-acetoxyeugenol acetate, trans-b -farnescene, geraniol acetate, a-humulene, limonene, myrcene, nerol acetate, pentadecane, linalool, propanol acetate, 2-methyl sabinene, santalene, b-sesquiphellandrene (Malaysian Herbal Monograph) , g-terpinene, terpinolene, tridecane, caryophyllene oxide, 1’hydroxycineol acetate, p-hydroxycinnamaldehyde, di-(p-hydroxy-cis-styryl)-methane, a-pinene, b-pinene, quercetin, kaempferol, quercetin-3-methyl ether, isorhamnetin and derivative of 4-allylphenol

392. Geranium ( pelargonium species) Potential High Value Boutique Crop Good for Hilly Terrain Citronellol, andgeraniol, which occur in different proportions according to the origin of the oil. Both Bourbon and North African-types contain unusual high quantities of (-)-citronellol, isomenthone and monoterpene formates. However they can be distinguished by the presence of different constituents such as guaia-6,9-diene in Bourbon oil and 10-epi-[gamma]-eudesmol in the African-type. The Chinese oil is similar to Bourbon-type, having higher content of citronellol (+40%) and lower content of Iinalool and geraniol (1,3). Distillation or solvent extraction of the dried leaves

393. Economics

394. Tea Tree ( Melaleuca alternifolia) No Stable Production Forecast Shortage Potential Downstream Suitable All Areas Few Pest & Disease Issues Small or Large Scale Production Established Market

396. Tea Tree: Economics (1 st Year) Estimated Profit (Establishment Year Ha) Assumptions: Yield: 200kg/Ha. Price USD 40/kg (BHT1360/kg) Revenue= BHT 272,000 Estimated Costs Amount Nursery BHT20,000 Planting BHT5000 Maintenance BHT5000 Harvesting & Distillation BHT20,000 Total Cost BHT50,000 Net Profit First Year: BHT222,000 Net Profit First Year (If Organic): BHT 766,000

397. Tea Tree: Economics (2 nd Year) Estimated Profit (Establishment Year Ha) Assumptions: Yield: 300kg/Ha. Price USD 40/kg (BHT1360/kg) Revenue= BHT 408,000 Estimated Costs Amount Planting BHT5000 Maintenance BHT5000 Harvesting & Distillation BHT20,000 Total Cost BHT30,000 Net Profit 2nd Year: BHT378,000 Net Profit 2nd Year (If Organic): BHT 1,194,000

398. Tea Tree: Economics (Subsequent Years) Estimated Profit (Establishment Year Ha) Assumptions: Yield: 450kg/Ha. Price USD 40/kg (BHT1360/kg) Revenue= BHT 612,000 Estimated Costs Amount Planting BHT5000 Maintenance BHT5000 Harvesting & Distillation BHT35,000 Total Cost BHT45,000 Net Profit 3rd Year: BHT 567,000 Net Profit 3rd Year (If Organic): BHT 1,791,000

400. No major producers left in Australia

401. China taking over as the largest producer

402. Failure of the Australian Industry to take a global business view

404. Some Fine Fragrance Profiles

417. The Trends of Fine Fragrance

419. Illustration of Lily of the Valley Fragrances from 19 th Century and Today 19 th Century Tuberose extract 21oz Jasmin extract 3oz Rose extract 2oz Orange flower extract 2oz Spirit of rose 2oz Essence of vanilla 2oz Ylang ylang No.1 1/2 oz Bergamot oil 1/2 oz Bois de rose extract 1/4oz Present Hydroxycitronellal 35.0 Rhodinol 18.0 Linalool 14.5 Phenyl ethyl alcohol 12.0 Geraniol 4.5 Di methyl benzyl cabinal acetate 4.5 Amyl cinnamic aldehyde 3.6 Lilial (Givaudan) 2.0 Iso eugenol 0.5 Phenylacetaldehyde dimethylacetal 0.2 Benzyl benzoate 4.2 Indole (10% solution DPG) 1.0 Addition of aroma chemicals and proprietary specialties

420. Emerging Fragrance Trends Sophisticated Red Fruits Pomegranate, redcurrant, raspberry leaves Red Fruit will go darker Blackcurrant, blackberry, black rose and black plum Gourmand notes Chocolate replacing vanilla as a base, brown sugar Milky notes Milk, milky coconut More specific exotic fruit Passionfruit, star fruit, kiwi, guava, litchi sorbet instead of pineapple, and coconut Pink pepper New spicy note Oriental influences Tea (red tea and green tea), ginger and bamboo for herbal notes based on oriental influences Chocolate, mango and musk black

421. USA Asian Influence Sesame, wasabi, ginger, noodle and Asian cabbage Indian Influence Fruit, spice and toasted nuts, chutney, quince pear, roasted coriander, pistaschio,almond & walnut Blue and goat cheese Mexico Tarmarind, squash flowers, huitlacoche (corn mushroom), portobello mushroom, duck meat North America Cuisines with most potential for growth Mediterranean influence Indian influence Middle East influence Slow Food Europe Fusion style Thai, Indonesian, Vietnamese influences Contemporary cuisine Mediterranean influence Exotic combinations South America Fusion style Thai/Chinese Western/Chinese Indonesian/Thai American/Mediterranean Italian French Asia/Pacific

422. Emerging Processed Food Flavour Trends Exotic Infusions A spicy kick of lemongrass, curcuma, pepper, coriander, ginger, basil, cardamom, cinnamon, oregano Red Pleasures Strawberry, cranberry, pomegranate, roobos, greengage, rhubarb, plum, blood orange, cherry variants, black current, huckleberry Black Health Black tea, black vinegar, black sesame seeds, black soybeans, black rice, black sugar, malt Botanical Power Honeysuckle, lavender blossom, elderflower, hibiscus, sunflower blossom, rose Attracting Opposites Spicy/mild, sweet/sour, hot/cold, fire/ice Ethnic Revival Traditional tastes and flavours, African hibiscus, Japanese cherry blossom, or Maroccan kumquat Flavour Migration Different categories start to mingle, desert drinks, coffee, cocktails

423. Formulary of finished products

424. Laundry Detergent

425. The Evolution of the Laundry Detergent Product Evolution changes market positioning

426. Fragrance Terpineol 50 Dihydromyrcenol 50 Floramat (Henkel) 50 Vertacetal (Dragoco) 50 P-tertButyl cyclohexal acetate 50 Cyclemen aldehyde 50 Magoflor 50 (IFF) 50 Citronellol 50 Galaxolide (IFF) 50 Benzyl Salicylate 50 Linalool 80 Phenyl ethyl alcohol 100 A-amyl cinnamaldehyde 100 Isoeugenol 10 Undecylenaldehyde 10 Benzyl acetate 20 Allyl ionone 20 Vigorose (IFF) 20 Dimetol (Givauden) 20 Ionone 20 Coumarin 20 Ocimenyl acetate 20 Anisaldehyde 30 Cinnamic alcohol 30 Fragrance Formulation for Kao Attack

427. Considerations in Developing Fragrances for Laundry Products Loss of perfume materials from a detergent powder after storage at room temperature in a cardboard container

428. Diffusion Constants of Some Perfume Materials Through High-Density Polyethylene (HDPE) from a Methanol Solution at 23c

429. Benefits and Technologies in Cleaning Clothes Problem Dirty Clothes Hand Washing Automatic local Washer/Dryer Launderette Machine Dry Cleaners Electrical Technology Solvents Washing Powders Fabric Conditioners Benefit Clean Clothes Laundry Powders Liquid Detergents

430. Demographics of Odour Communication Perfumery Marketing Mix Cleanliness Softness Citrus Lemon Herbal Green Psychological Association Objective: to reinforce the belief of the consumer in the desired and projected image of the product Synergy with product presentation: packaging, colour, advertising, corporate image Product Differentiation

431. Product Formulation

432. What is this the formula of? Part 1 3.50 ml orange oil 1.00 ml lemon oil 1.00 ml nutmeg oil 1.25 ml cassia oil 0.25 ml coriander oil 0.25 ml neroli oil 2.75 ml lime oil 0.25 ml lavender oil 10.0 g food-grade gum arabic 3.00 ml water Part 2 2.00 tsp. Flavouring formula 20g coca leaf extract 20g cola extract 5 g vanilla 3.50 tsp. 75% phosphoric acid 2.28 l water 2.36 kg plain granulated white table sugar 0.50 tsp. caffeine 30.0 ml caramel colour 500 ml lime juice Part 3 Mix parts 1 & 2 together and then add 1:5 parts of water and carbonate.

433. Essential Oils in Thailand

434. Phurua, Loei Province The system of extraction uses a new family of benign non-CFC gaseous solvents (R134a) 1,1,1,2 tetrafluoroethylene Producing Rose oil, jasmin grandiflorum and sambac, champaca, ylang ylang, frangipani. Selling to Europe and US markets Coffee Extract Tuberose

435. Rose Harvesting Rose Collection Extraction Preparation Extraction

436. Non Commission Officer Welfare Project

437. Agarwood

439. Products

440. Plai oil (Zingiber cassumunar) Major Constituents: terpinen-4-ol, a-terpinene, sabinene, g-terpinene, cis -3-(2',4',5'-trimethoxyphenyl -4-[(E)-2''',4''',5'''-trimethoxy-styryl]cyclohex- 1-ene, cis -3-(3',4'-dimethoxyphenyl)-4-[(E)-3''',4'''- dimethoxystyryl]cyclohex-1-ene, cis -3- (3',4'-dimethoxyphenyl)-4-[(E)-2''',4''',5'''- trimethoxystyryl]cyclohex-1-ene (3),(E)-4- (3',4'-dimethoxypheny1)but-3-en-1-ol, E)-4- (3',4'-dimethoxypheny1)but-3-en-1-yl acetate, 8-(3',4'-dimethoxyphenyl)-2-methoxynaphtho- 1,4- quinone Sabinene and terpinen-4-ol a-terpinene g-terpinene Extraction Method: Steam distillation of the rhizomes

441. Potential Research Projects

442. Cajuput (Gelam) Melaleuca cajuputi Local Tree Number