Animals, Education

1. Restraining of
animals

2. General Informations about
Restraining of animals
• An art to handle the animals
• Ample information about the psychology of
animals/cattle
• Nervous cow
• Docile cow
• The Balker
• Chronic Kicker

3. Cattle Characteristics
• Prey animals
• Grazers
• Panoramic vision
– 310-360
– Blind side behind them
• Keen hearing

4. • The handler’s body language, tone of voice,
mental state, eye contact, and physical
movements can influence the patient’s behavior
greatly.
• In order to adhere to this standard, the
veterinary assistant must be well trained and
skilled in the art of restraint.
• Animal patients can harm handlers, and the
handler can likewise harm the patient if they are
not careful and sufficiently trained.

5. Objectives
• Restraint involves limiting the movement of a patient so a medical
procedure can be performed.
• The veterinary assistant will often restrain the patient to increase
the ability of the veterinarian and/or technician in completing vital
procedures.
• Understand potential risks that exist with the practice of large
animal veterinary medicine.
• KNOW quick release knot.
• Understand the basic natural instincts of each large animal species.
• Understand the importance of protecting themselves, veterinary
personnel, and clients while handling patients.
• Be familiar with common methods of large animal restraint and be
able to apply them safely, efficiently, and effectively.

6. Safety
• One of the most dangerous occupations
– Death rate: 21 workers per 100,000
– 110,000 disabling accidents per year
• Reasons
– Human error
– Being tired
– Not paying attention
– Using poor judgment

7. Cattle Restraint
• “Stress”
– Loss of production results in lower profits.
– Increased feed requirements result in increased
cost.
– Decreased immunity results in increased illness.
– Death results in lower profits.

8. Cattle Restraint (cont’d)
• Stress
– Increased respiration
– High mortality
– Teeth grinding
– Poor product quality
– Nervousness
– Poor growth rate
– Poor reproduction
– Increased flight zone

9. Most veterinarian procedures required two
stages of animal handling:
1. The individual most be separate from the
herd (herding instinct)
2. The individual must be restrained
appropriately

10. Restraint
• Physical, Chemical and
Psychological restraint
• Prepare
• Be familiar with your
equipment
• Protect the animal
• Protect yourself
• Protect your coworkers
Liability: The veterinarian is
responsible

11. Major types of restraint
• Psychological – this is the least restrictive type
of restraint and would be used in combination
with other types of restraint. Using a soft,
soothing voice while gently stroking the patient
will help calm and sooth them.
• Physical – this is the primary method of
restraining an animal and involves using the
handler’s hands or body along with muzzles,
ropes or other equipment.

12. Major types of restraint
• Chemical – this method utilizes drugs such as
sedatives, tranquilizers and anesthesia to alter
the patient’s mental state, allowing the animal
to stay immobilized and/or without pain, and
causing the patient to be cooperative during
procedures.
• Chemical restraint would be used if the patient
is particularly difficult to handle, if the patient
is in pain.

13. Different Methods of cattle
restraining

14. Halter
• Select a 12' to 15' (feet) (3.6m to 4.5m)
length of half-inch (1.27cm) three-stranded
rope. Any type of rope, from cotton to nylon
will work. However your choice depends on
the strength needed, durability required, and
the cost.

15. • Run the long end of the rope into and
through the eye of the loop. This completes
the halte.

17. • Head restraint may
be applied to
cooperative animals,
without use of a
chute, but most
individuals must be
placed in a chute
first.

19. TAIL RESTRAINT

20. NOSE LEAD
• Tail restraint
• Nose lead
– IV injection
– Udder surgery
– Examine hoof
• Restraint of the head

21. RESTRAINT OF THE HEAD

22. Nose leads
• They apply blunt,
pinching pressure to the
nasal septum.
• Supplement with halter
and/or with head restraint
• Nasal septum may be
torn with violent
movement

24. FRONT LEG HOPPLE
• In this way a front leg may be raised and held off the ground for examination or
treatment. This restraint can also be used to make a cow stand still and to avoid her
from kicking with a hind leg.
• A rope with an eye in one end is used to form a loop around the pastern. The other end
of the rope passes over the withers where is should be held by an assistant so that it can
be released quickly if the cow starts to go down.

25. Leg Restraint: Front Leg Hoppel
ASSISTANT
A rope is used to form a
loop around the pastern.
The other end of the
rope passes over the
withers where is should
be held by an assistant
so that it can be released
quickly if the cow starts
to go down.

26. RAISING THE REAR LEG MANUALLY
• About the best way to hold a cow's foot for
hoof trimming is for the operator to rest it on
his own knee.
• A nose lead is used and the cow's head pulled
to the side opposite that of the foot to be
lifted. The operator grasps the leg at the
pastern with his left hand.

27. RAISING THE REAR LEG, BEAM HOOK METHOD
• This is a method of raising a cow's foot off the ground and holding it in
a position which will permit one to examine it or to treat it. It is
particularly useful for the treatment of hoof rot in dairy herds .
• By means of a nose lead the cow's head is pulled. to the side opposite
the leg which is to be lifted .A set of beam hooks is fastened to a beam
above and somewhat behind the cow.
• The free end of the rope is passed upward through the ring of the beam
hook so that it goes in a direction toward the head of the cow.
• The animal may struggle; but if her foot is lifted and the rope tightened
simultaneously, the foot can be raised high enough to permit one to
work on it.

29. SPECULUM EXAMINATION
• For any thorough examination of a cow's
mouth one should use a speculum and have a
good strong light. The speculum with its two
arms together is slipped into the mouth and
then fastened by a strap around the neck. It
may be opened to the desired width by a
ratchet on the side.

31. HALTER TIE
• This is a good knot for fastening halter ropes
as it is easily untied.

32. TAIL ROPE
• The purpose of this restraint is to keep the
cow's tail out of the way when a placenta is
being removed or the udder is being treated.

33. TAIL TIE
The tail tie, a method of securely tying a rope to
a horse's tail, has many applications. Much of a
horse's weight may be raised or moved by a tail
rope, but it should never be used on a cow except
to hold her tail out of its normal position. A
cow's weight, or a part of it, should never be
lifted by her tail. ON neither a horse nor a cow
should the end of a tail rope ever be tied to a
fixed object.

34. 1. With the longer piece on the
right, hold a rope over the tail
just at the end of the last
coccygeal vertebra.
2. Fold the rest of the tail
upward over the rope.
3. Pass the end of the rope
behind the tail and make a
bight in it.
4. Bring the bight over the
folded tail.
5. Pull it tight through the rope
which is looped around the tail.

35. CASTING RESTRAINTS
• Cows are more easily and safely cast than
horses since they struggle less and are more
willing to lie down. Bedding should be
arranged for them none the less, as it may save
them from bruises.
• Bulls are more vigorous and are harder to cast
and control. It may be safer to cast them with
a double side-line harness than with one of the
squeezes.

36. BURLEY METHOD OF CASTING
• This method of casting cattle, devised by Dr. D. R.
Burley of Georgia, has many advantages over the other
casting methods.
• It is simply passed around the animal's body which
takes less time.
• Second, this restraint does not put pressure over the
thorax and thus does not interfere with the action of the
heart and lungs.
• Third, it does not endanger the genital organs of the
bull or the mammary vessels of the cow.
• Finally, with this restraint both rear legs may be tied
with the ends of the casting rope.

37. • While the cow is being held by a strong halter or by a nose lead a
forty foot piece of rope is placed over her back with its center at the
withers.
• The ends are carried between the forelegs and crossed at the
sternum.
• One end is carried up each side of the animal's body and the two
are crossed again over the back.
• Each end passes downward between the rear legs going between
the inner surface of the legs and under the udder or scrotum, as the
case may be.
• When the ends of the rope are pulled, the cow will fall. The
operator may control the direction of the fall by pulling the casting
ropes so that the animal is forced to one side or the other.

38. • To tie the rear leg the operator keeps both
ropes tout and slides the uppermost one along
the under surface of the rear leg to the
fetlock. He flexes the leg and makes a half
hitch around the fetlock.

39. • The end is then carried around the leg above
the hock, across the cannon bone, and back
around the fetlock. The leg is secured by
several such "figure 8's".

40. • To tie the front leg a short heavy cord or rope
about six feet long is needed. One end of it is
fastened around the pastern with a clove hitch
leaving a free end about eight inches
long. The front leg is flexed and the long end
of the cord carried forward and passed under
the main casting rope descending from the
withers.

41. • The cord is passed around the flexed front leg several
times and tied in a reefer's knot to the short free end at
the pastern.
• The animal is rolled over and the rear leg of the other
side is tied with the other end of the casting rope. With
another six foot cord, the other front leg is tied, and the
animal is then completely restrained.

42. ROPE SQUEEZE
• This is a standard method of casting a cow. The rope for this restraint may
be arranged on a cow while she is in the stanchion. She may then be led
to the place where it is desired that she lie down and tension applied to
the end of the rope.
• Make a loop around the cow's neck using a bowline knot placed
as indicated in the drawing.

43. • Throw the end of the rope over her back to the
opposite side.

44. • Reaching under the cow, pick it up an bring it
around her body and under the standing part
of the rope near the bowline to form a half
hitch just behind the shoulder.

45. • By tossing the end over the cow's back again,
make another half hitch just in from of the
udder. Pulling the rope will force the cow to
lie down.

47. EYE SPLICE WITH A QUICK RELEASE KNOT
• The quick-release honda is a metal eye which can be quickly attached to or
released from the standing part of a rope or from another rope. With it the
end of a rope can be attached to a loop without a knot. It is preferable that
this honda be of aluminum.

49. SQUARE KNOT
• Cross the ends of the left rope over and around
the end of the right rope to make an overhand
knot.

50. SQUARE KNOT
Cross the new right end over and then around the
new left, making a second overhand knot.

51. SQUARE KNOT
• Pull Tight

52. SQUARE KNOT TIED WITH ONE
HAND
• Hold the end with the thumb and index finger of the right
hand. The end must pass between the thumb and index finger
in the direction illustrated. Pass the standing part behind the
fingers, bend it around the little finger and across the inside
surface of the last three fingers.

53. • Flex the middle finger to pull the standing part
in toward the palm. Extend the thumb and
forefinger to cross the end over the standing
part.

54. • With the middle and ring fingers grasp the end
after it has crossed over the standing
part. Release the hold on the end above the
crossing.

55. • With the middle and ring fingers carry the end
under the standing part to form the first
overhand part of the square knot. Pull tight.

56. • To begin the second overhand part again grasp
the end between the thumb and
forefinger. Release the part held by the ring
and middle fingers and place the last three
fingers so that the end crosses over them as
illustrated.

57. • Bring the standing part down over the inside
surface of the fingers of the right hand.

58. • Flex the middle finger to pull the standing part
in toward the palm, and extend the thumb and
forefinger to cross the end over the standing
part.

59. • Grasp the end as it crosses over the standing
part between the middle and ring fingers and
release the hold of the thumb and forefinger.

60. • Pull the end around under the standing part to
form the second overhand part of the square
knot. Pull tight to complete the knot.

64. GRANNY KNOT
• By mistake this knot is often tied when a square
knot is intended. A granny knot will slip under
strain whereas a square knot will hold firmly
• Cross the end of the left rope over and wrap it
once around the end of the right rope, as in the
square knot.
• Cross the new left rope over and then around the
new right.
• Pull tight.

65. SURGEON'S KNOT
• This knot is similar to the square knot but has
one more turn of the end around the standing
part in the beginning. This added turn in the
first part of the knot makes it a very useful one
not only for suturing, but also for any other
work in which it is desirable that the first part
of the knot hold fast while the second part is
being tied.

66. • Cross the left cord over the right and wrap
either end twice around the standing part of the
other cord.
Cross the end now on the right over and once
around the left end.
• Pull tight.

67. REEFER'S KNOT
• This knot is much like the square knot but is
more readily untied. It will not slip under
strain.

68. • Pass the end of the left rope over and around
the end of the right rope.
• Form a bight in the new right strand.
Pass the bight over and around the left rope.
• Hold the bight in the left hand and pull the end
of the right rope.
To untie pull the free end of the bight.

70. Cattle Restraint (cont’d)
• Tailing
– The middle of the tail is grasped and twisted forward to one
side
– Too much pressure can break the tail.
– Do not stand directly behind them.

73. Restraint
• Squeeze chute
– Portable cattle chutes with head restraint are most
desirable
– Head can be restrained with halter

74. Chute Restraint
• The working
chute is
designed to
hold one
animal at the
time

75. Cattle Restraint (cont’d)
Chutes
Head gate
Tail gate
Squeeze

76. Chute Restraint
Self
closing
head catch
or
manually

77. Nose lead

78. Cattle Restraint (cont’d)
• Halters

80. Nose rings
• Placed through the nasal
septum and are often
used in bulls
• Should not be used to tie
the head for head
restraint
• Only for additional
control of the head but:
nasal septum can be torn

81. Calf restraint
• Separate the calf from mother first
• Lateral recumbency: slide down your legs DO NOT throw
calf on ground

82. Calf restraint
• Flanking (Calves)
• Reach over calf.
• Reach down flank and grasp nearest hindleg with one hand.
• Reach between forelegs and grasp nearest foreleg with other hand.
• Lift and slide calf to ground.
• Kneel on neck and thigh.
• Lift bottom foreleg from ground.

83. Calf restraint
• Do not throw the calf to
the ground
• Do not place the entire
bodyweight on the calf
and do not occlude the
trachea

84. Approach, Handling and Control
of Animals

85. Approach, Handling and Control of Animals

104. Restraining Methods in animals

117. Casting of Animals

118. Casting – Rope Squeeze
• Casting is a method of
forcing an animal to
the ground, usually
with ropes
• Prefer R lateral
recumbency:
discourages bloat
• Casting - calving

119. Casting – Burley Method
Advantages
• Less time
• No respiratory/
CVS pressure
• No pressure in
genitalia area

131. Pet Restraint Techniques and Pain
Management

132. Intro
• Pet owners are faced with everyday problems like ear
infections, cut paws, or upset stomachs.
• Basic restraint is vital first step towards investigating
hundreds of dog and cat conditions.
• In dramatic situations, they can save your pet’s life
• In any situation they ensure that
you can safely examine your animal
without causing injury to the pet or
to you.
uptownvetsnyc.com

133. General: Signs of Pain
• Signs of pain in dogs and cats can be pretty
subtle.
– Animals that didn’t hide signs of injury were more
likely to be attacked.
• You must be alert to changes in behavior to
determine if your pet is indeed in pain.
• Dogs tend to be more vocal and
may yelp, hold a hurt paw, or limp.
howtodothings.com

134. General: Signs of Pain
• Cats more often simply hide and refuse to
move.
• Other signs can include panting, drooling,
refusing to eat, “hunching” or tucking up a
painful stomach, “bowing” a painful neck,
flinching when touched, or squinting if an eye
is painful or watery.

135. Pain
• If you suspect spine problems or fractures, don’t use
any pain medication for first aid.
• Since the most common pain relievers can make
bleeding worse, do not give as first aid when you aren’t
sure about the extent of the problem.
– NEVER give aspirin to cats. One does of Tylenol is fatal to
a cat
• Veterinarians have much more
effective and safer pain medicines
that they can give to pets once a
diagnosis has been made.
drsfostersmith.com

136. Pain Treatment
• However, there are some effective and safe pain treatments that
you can safely use as first aid.
– Cortaid contains steroids that reduce painful inflammation. It
works well on minor cuts and scrapes or insect stings.
– Products containing benzocaine, like Lanacane or Solarcaine,
contain topical anesthetics that numb the pain of sunburn and
mouth sores. Benozcaine should not be used on cats.
– Hot compresses work well on
sore joints caused by arthritis
– Ice numbs the pain of nearly any
skin injury, bruise, or burn within
minutes.
lanacane.com
buzzillions.com

137. Restraint
• To examine an injury to your pet, you likely will need
to restrain the animal.
• A humane restraint serves three purposes:
– 1. it protects you from being bitten or clawed while
administering first aid
– 2. it restricts your pet’s movements
to prevent further injury
– 3. it keeps your pet in one place
so that the injury can be examined
and treated

138. Muzzles
• Any pet will bite as a reflex when hurt
• While commercial muzzles are available, a
home-made muzzle can be nearly or equally as
effective

139. Muzzles - short nosed animals
• Cats and short-nosed dogs (like pugs) are a
concern are a challenge because they do not
have enough of a nose to tie shut.
• In this case, one of the best muzzles is a
pillowcase.

140. To make a pillowcase muzzle:
– Fit a cloth bag over the pet’s head and gently hold it around
the neck
– The fabric will keep the teeth engaged and pets often stop
struggling once they can’t see
– You can also pull the case over the pets body as necessary to
contain the front legs and/or paws
– Allow the affected body part to stick out of the pillowcase
for access
– Some treatments, such as a cool water soak for heat stroke,
can be done through the pillowcase

141. Muzzles – long nosed dogs
• You can use any piece of material from a necktie or
length of gauze to a panty hose or extra leash
• Loop the material around your pet’s jaw and tie it in a
single knot (half-hitch) on top of his nose.
• Then bring both ends of the tie
back down under his jaw and tie
another single knot.
• Finally, pull the ends behind the
base of his neck and tie them in a bow or knot.

142. Restraint Techniques
– Each form of restraint works best for a specific type of injury
– The selected technique should leave the injured area accessible for
treatment
– If possible, have one person restrain the
animal while another performs the first aid.
– It is best to place small pets on a counter or tabletop so that they
are at waist level…this can prevent you from putting too much
weight on an injured body part.
– Medium or large dogs are best treated
on the floor – a long fall could further
worsen a serious injury.

143. Reclining Restraint
 Place your pet on his side, with the injured area facing up.
 With one hand, grasp the ankle of the foreleg that’s against the
ground while gently pressing your forearm across his shoulders.
 With the other hand, grasp the ankle of the hind leg that’s against
the ground while pressing that forearm across his hips.
 This technique works best for
medium-large dogs and/or dogs
with prominent eyes (e.g. Pekingese)
 Holding these types of dogs around
the neck produces pressure that may
pop out their eyeballs
 Photos on next slide 

144. Reclining Restraint
• Proper techniques for reclining restraint

145. Stretch Restraint
• With cats and small dogs, grasp your pet by
the loose skin at the back of the neck (scruff)
with one hand
• Capture both hind feet with the other hand.
• Gently stretch out your pet and hold it against
a tabletop

146. Hugging Restraint
• Bring one arm underneath and
around your dog’s neck (like a half
nelson) to hug him to your chest
• With the other arm, reach under
and around his chest and pull him
closer against you.
• This technique works best for dogs
over 20 lbs and is most useful when
trying to immobilize the abdomen,
chest, legs, and back.

147. Hugging Restraint

148. Kneeling Restraint
• Pressure around the necks of dogs with prominent eyes
(e.g. Pekingese) may pop out their eyeballs.
• Instead of restraining with a neck grip or by the scruff,
put your dog on the floor between your knees facing
away from you as you kneel.
• Put one hand on top of your dog’s head and the
other around or beneath his jaws to steady his
head while another person treats this area.
• This method also works for giving pills to cats.
gotoaid.com

149. Elizabethan Collars
• Elizabethan Collars (or E-collars) prevent dogs
and cats from reaching injuries with their teeth.
• They also protect facial sores from pawing or
scratching nails.
• You can get them at pet-supply stores,
catalogs, or from a vet.
• They can also be home-made.
thatpetplace.com

150. Making an E-collar
• 1. Measure the pet’s neck and the distance from his collar to the
tip of his nose
• 2. Mark these measurements on a piece of rigid cardboard or
plastic.
• 3. Make a V-shaped cut from the outer edge to the inner circle.
• 4. Use a knitting needle or awl to punch holes along both edges
of the collar.
• 5. Lace a shoe string or yarn through the holes to secure the
collar around your pet’s neck.

151. E-collars

152. THANKS