Within nature lies the cure for humanity! From times immemorial, wisdom, and knowledge in our part of the world (India) was passed onto generations through an oral tradition known as Shruti & Smruti- the art of storytelling. This is evident from Charak Samhita which is believed to have arisen around 400-200 BCE and the Sushruta Samhita which are considered as authentic treatises of Ayurveda and Indian medicine. India has 45,000 plant species, out of which 15,000 are medicinal plants, including 7,000 plants, which have ayurvedic use. There has been a remarkable rise in the demand for organic and natural commodities due to awareness regarding the harmful effects of the synthetic elements in these cosmetic products. It is well known that what is applied on the skin, gets absorbed into the body with time. Focusing on sustainability and safety, natural organic cosmetics are a rising trend in the cosmetic and personal care industry. ‘Cosmeceuticals’ are an active element in the natural organic cosmetics. They are serving as a unique bridge between personal care products with cosmetic benefits and pharmaceuticals with therapeutic benefits. These active therapeutic ingredients have been blended well in cosmetic formulations. They are a perfect amalgamation of aesthetic science and drug science. Cosmeceutical is a term every beauty junkie must know about in the current era. The global cosmeceutical market size was valued at USD 55.4 billion in 2020 and is anticipated to expand at a CAGR of 5.1% from 2019-2025. These products, unlike the makeup products, can resolve the origin of imperfections rather than camouflaging them. Hence, increasing the beauty and health consciousness among wealthy and knowledgeable consumers has led to an increase in the cosmeceutical market. Those beauties who want to make this experience safer and greener, turn their heads to phytocosmeceuticals. Phyto cosmeceuticals bring us closer to nature. They unveil nature’s true potential to heal us. Here are a few of the phytochemicals which have therapeutic action in skin and hair care cosmetics.

2. Phytochemistry of Aloe Vera (Barbados aloe)
PHYTOCHEMICALS – in leaf
Aloin Polysaccharide:
Acemann
Amino acids
Enzymes:
Super oxide dismutase
Glutathione peroxidase Salicylic acid
Action on Skin
COSMETIC BENEFITS
Action on Hair
 Polysaccharides stimulate fibroblast
which produces collagen & elastin; anti
aging effect
 Anthraquinone aloin inactivates viruses
 Polysaccharides bind moisture into the
skin; cohesive effects on the epidermal
cells which softens the skin
 Amino acids soften hardened skin cells
and zinc acts as an astringent to
tighten pores
 Lignin; penetrative ability to carry
other active ingredients deep into the
skin to nourish the dermis
 Proteolytic enzymes help to
protect scalp; prevents hair
loss
Lignan
Pectin
Common name:
कोरफड, Ghritkumari

3. Phytochemistry of Rose (Rosa rubiginosa)
PHYTOCHEMICALS – in flower
α-tocopherol
Linolenic acid Linoleic acid
β-carotene Retinoic acid
Ascorbic
acid (Vit C)
Action on Skin
 Antioxidants like tocopherol reduce
ROS production
 Trans retinoic acid content restores and
regenerates scar tissues and fades fine
lines and wrinkles
 Helps the skin to repair and push fresh
cells to the epidermis
 Essential fatty acid content is 78%
 Vitamins and PUFA content help to
moisturize skin
 Vitamin C is involved in skin and
collagen formation
 Quercetin inhibits tyrosinase activity;
reduces melanin
Action on Hair
 Fatty acid PUFA reduces
itchiness of dry scalp and
eliminates dandruff
 Vitamins in oil restore shine in
dull hair
COSMETIC BENEFITS
Quercetin

4. Phytochemistry of Carrot Seed (Daucus carota)
PHYTOCHEMICALS- in seed
p-hydroxybenzoic acid Apigenin
Anthocyanin (cyanidin)
Ascorbic Acid (Vit C)
β-carotene
Action on Skin
 Antioxidants like cyanidin reduce ROS production; protect cell membrane
lipids from oxidation
 Apigenin helps to prevent UVA/UVB-induced skin carcinogenesis
 Polyphenols prevent skin aging by functioning as free-radical scavengers
 Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) plays an important role in the biosynthesis of
collagen thus keeps skin healthy
COSMETIC BENEFITS

5. Phytochemistry of Tomato (Solanum
lycopersicum)
PHYTOCHEMICALS- in fruit
Lycopene
Potassium
Ascorbic Acid (Vit C) Vitamin K
β-carotene
Folate
Ferulic acid
Action on Skin
 Lycopene is a powerful antioxidant, neutralizing free radicals
 Lycopene provides protection against UVB rays
 Lycopene appears to strengthen skin by inhibiting the activity of collagenases—
enzymes involved in the breakdown of collagen in the skin.
 Phenolic acids like chlorogenic acids act as anti bacterial agents
COSMETIC BENEFITS
Chlorogenic acid

6. Phytochemistry of Sea buckthorn
(Hippophae rhamnoides)
PHYTOCHEMICALS- in fruit
Sterol: β- Sitosterol
β-carotene
1:1 ratio of omega3:omega-6 (linolenic
and linoleic acid respectively)
Vitamin C, E,
B complex
Flavanoids
Zeaxanthin
Action on Skin
COSMETIC BENEFITS
 Unique combination of PUFA & SFA
 Phytosterols improve micro circulation in the skin and improve skin elasticity and
firmness
 Fatty acids create an occlusive film on the skin which reduces transepidermal water
loss (TEWL), thus contributing to maintaining the correct hydration of epidermis
 Rare palmitooleic acid (omega-7) stimulates regenerative processes in the
epidermis
 Gamma Linoleic Acid (GLA) improves skin structure appearance and tone
 A high content of saturated fatty acids (above 30 wt.%) secures epidermis against
transepidermal water loss and provides firmness to skin
 Complex lipids have moisturizing properties and slow down aging process
 Carotenoids provides regenerative and anti-wrinkle benefit
Palmitoleic acid
(omega-7)
Phospholipid/
Glycolipids
Common name: Kutki, Dhurchuk

7. Phytochemistry of Licorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra)
PHYTOCHEMICALS- in stem, root
Licochalcone
Glabridin
Action on Skin
Glycyrrhizin
Liquiritin Stigmasterol
Skin Lightening
Anti aging & Anti Inflammatory
Antioxidant Benefits
Moisturizing benefit
UV protection benefit
Hair growth
Anti bacterial/ Anti viral benefit
COSMETIC BENEFITS
 Glabridin lightens dark spots by inhibiting tyrosinase and stopping melanin
production
 Liquiritin causes depigmentation by two mechanisms: melanin dispersibility and
epidermal stain removing property
 Glabrene, Licochalcone A, Isoliquiritin are also responsible for inhibition of
tyrosinase activity.
 Hydro-alcoholic extract of liquorice showed good hair growth promoting activity
 Glycyrrhizin shows antioxidant property by quenching free radicals
 Saponins, alkaloids, flavonoids in hydro-methanolic root extract exhibit potent
antibacterial activity
 Glycyrrhizin does not allow the virus cell binding, anti viral property
Isoliquiritin
Glycyrrhizic acid
Common name: Mulethi,
ज्येष्ठमध

8. Phytochemistry of Echinacea (Echinacea purpurea)
PHYTOCHEMICALS- in flower extract
Moisturizing benefit
Anti aging
Antioxidant Benefits
Anti bacterial/ Anti viral activity
Anti pollution benefits
Action on Skin
Cichoric acid Caftaric acid
Alkylamides Chlorogenic acid
 Phytochemical cichoric acid, a influential natural antioxidant protects skin by
excluding the enzymes responsible for the break down process of the collagen
 Polyphenolic compounds exhibit moisturizing property and hold healthy
proteins and oils
 Polyphenolic compounds also exhibit antioxidant and anti ageing activity
 Antioxidants nourish the skin and protect it from damage caused by pollution,
free radicals and possibly even damaging ambient blue light.
 Polysaccharides and cichoric acid in leaves and stem of echinaca show anti
viral activity
COSMETIC BENEFITS
Echinacoside
Common name : Kalamegh

9. Phytochemistry of Hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis)
PHYTOCHEMICALS- in flower, leaf
Action on Skin
Glucoside β-sitosterol Quercetin
Saponins
Tannin
 Flavonoids and glucosides show
antioxidant activity
 Flavonoids, tannins, terpenoids,
saponins, or alkaloids exhibit anti
bacterial/ anti fungal activity; they are
able to complex with components of
the bacterial cell wall and eventually
deteriorate it
COSMETIC BENEFITS
Cyanidin-3- sophoroside Luteolin glucoside
Action on Hair
 Phytosterols and triterpenoids
are advantageous for hair
growth while tannins, which
are absent, supress hair
growth
Common name: गुढ़ल,
Japa pushpa

10. Phytochemistry of Green Tea (Camellia sinensis)
PHYTOCHEMICALS- in leaf
Action on Skin
Epigallocatechin Epigallocatechingallate
Caffeine Quercetin
 EGCG prevents UVB-induced oxidative stress
 EGCG anti aging property
 Epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG) and epicatechin gallate (ECG) show moderate
antibacterial activity against gram-positive and gram-negative bacterial species
 Gallic acid esters show their antiseptic and antioxidant properties, they are able to
form complexes with other molecules, thereby detoxifying the system
 Polyphenols in green tea damage bacterial membranes, fight against acne
 Catechins and polyphenols stimulate cell turnover in hair follicles, thus stimulating
hair growth
 Vitamin B2 maintains collagen levels for youthful skin
Vitamin B2/
Vitamin E
COSMETIC BENEFITS
Kaempferol
Myricetin

11. Phytochemistry of Onion (Allium cepa)
PHYTOCHEMICALS- in tuber
Action on Skin
Quercetin Cyanidin
Quercetin glucopyranoside Sulfur compounds
 Quercetin, quercetin glycoside and
their oxidative products are effective
antioxidants against the lethal effects
of oxidative stress
 Antioxidant activity, which is attributed
to the flavonoids; quercetin,
kaempferol, myricetin and catechin
 Quercetin glucopyranoside shows anti
tyrosinase activity; skin whitening
activity
COSMETIC BENEFITS
Allicin
Action on Hair
 Sulphur in the juice helps in the
production of essential collagen
that promotes hair growth.
 Anti-microbial properties that
successfully reduce scalp
infections.
 Allicin present in allium cepa
promotes hair growth
 Methylsulfonylmethane facilitates
the formation of keratin for hair,
resulting in hair growth.
Kaempferol
Common name: Kanda, प्याज़

12. Phytochemistry of Bhringraj (Eclipta alba)
PHYTOCHEMICALS- in leaf, roots
Action on Skin
Apigenin, Luteolin
β- Sitosterol,
stigmasterol Wedelolactone
Ecliptal
Furanocoumarin
 The presence of β-sitosterol
in Eclipta alba helps to
rebuild hair in androgenic
alopecia
 5- alpha reductase converts
testosterone
into dihydrotestosterone(D
HT) which causes hair loss.
 β-sitosterol is a potent 5-
reductase inhibitor that
reduces hair loss and helps in
the construction of new
anagenic follicles.
Action on Hair
Eclalbasaponins
Cosmetic Benefits
 Leaves of bhringraj are magnificent
for treating minor skin diseases and
have brilliant antibacterial properties
 Flavanoids act as anti-oxidants, anti-
microbial, Anti-fungal, anti-viral,
Modifies mechanism of aging.
 Terpenoids serve as starting material
for synthesis of vitamin A,
 Vitamin A stimulates fibroblast keeps
skin firm & healthy in deep layers of
skin.
 Tannins as antioxidants act skin tissue
repair
Common name:
भ्रिंगराज, के शराज

13. Phytochemistry of Sesame (Sesamum indicum L.)
PHYTOCHEMICALS- in seed
Action on Skin
Sesamin Sesamolin
Anthrasesamone
Sesaminol
glucoside
α-Tocopherol
COSMETIC BENEFITS
 Phytochemical compounds in sesame seed such as sesamin, sesamol, and
anthrasesamone F have been proved to have antioxidant and antiaging activity
 Sesame seed contains lecithin which has antioxidant properties
 Lecithin is also effective as moisturizing agent for dry skin
 Sesamin and sesamolin shows antibacterial activity
Common name:Til

14. Phytochemistry of Coconut Oil (Cocos nucifera)
PHYTOCHEMICALS- in fruit
Action on Skin
TocopherolLauric acid
(approx. 50%)
Catechin
COSMETIC BENEFITS
 The fatty acid portion in Medium chain
saturated fatty acids exhibit antimicrobial
properties
 Medium chain fatty acids, phenolic, and
polyphenols act as an antioxidant source.
 Polyphenols in VCO could inhibit the
microsomal lipid peroxidation;
antioxidant and anti ageing activity
 Bacterial enzymes hydrolyse triglycerides
in coconut oil to MG which show changes
in the bacterial cell membrane, disrupt
the cell cytoplasm, leading to its death
 Fatty acids form occlusive layer on skin
which prevents TEWL
Fatty acid %
Lauric 50
Myristic 20
Caprylic 9
Capric 8
Caproic 5
Linoleic/ Linolenic 1-3
Arachidonic 0.2
Eicosinoic acid 0.2
Action on Hair
 The fatty acids like lauric acid
have ability to penetrate the
hair follicles and prevent their
breakage.
 The fatty acid bind to the
natural protein in the hair thus
provide moisturization and
conditioning to the hair shaft
Quercetin
Caffeic acid Ferulic acid p-coumaric acid

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