To stay up-to-date with all things RE-UP, sign up to our newsletter here: http://eepurl.com/dpSajr The UpDeck searches for trends less obvious but everpresent. It's written by RE-UP team. This first edition of the report focuses on the representation of peers, and how luxury brands try to change the influential loops. With a central question: Will you touch them? Report agenda: The word: Finsta Forewords Agenda Trend 1: Gender pervasive brands Takeaways: Consensual sex sells for brands - Paco Rabanne, Pure XS - Jimmy Choo, SS18 - Cartier, and Sofia Coppola - House 99, and David Beckham - Louis Vuitton, and Jaden Smith - Gucci, Guilty Trend 2: WeChat: Permanent pop-up store Takeaways: WeChat turns - Hermes, Apple watch - Celine, Pop-up store - Vacheron Constantin, Online and offline shopping - Moncler, Platforms Trend 3: Embracing paparazzi Takeaways: Embrace 'Finsta' - Balenciaga SS18 - Yeezy, Season 6 - Moschino, SS17

1. The UpDeck
The Luxury Edit
Embracing Finsta
AUGUST 2018PACO RABANNE
JIMMY CHOO
CARTIER
HOUSE 99
LOUIS VUITTON
GUCCI
HERMÈS
CÉLINE
VACHERON CONSTANTIN
MONCLER
BALENCIAGA
YEEZY
MOSCHINO

2. Theword:Finsta
“My ‘fake Instagram,’ or finsta, is a vortex of moody
selfies, memes, and life updates only on view for my
closest friends. It’s always changing and portraying
the ups-and-downs of my real life, like a constantly-
updated, digital diary -- whereas my actual
Instagram is a highly curated, careful presentation of
how I want to be seen.”
Dane Scott

3. Social Media is the battlefield for luxury brands: snackable content,
Instagram-friendly shops & packaging, squads of influencers; the
whole luxury experience is now made for sharing.
In a world made of digital signs – signs whose particularities are to
carry the contact of the gestures which made them happen (think
about how many times you touch your phone) – brands try to
influence our identities-in-progress.
This trend report focuses on the representation of peers, and how
brands try to change the influential loops. With a central question:
WILL YOU TOUCH THEM?
Forewords
YOUR - DIGITAL - PEERS ARE YOUR GOLD

4. Agenda
GENDER PERVASIVE AT STAKE WECHAT: PERMANENT POP-UP STORE
EMBRACING PAPARAZZI
PACO RABANNE
JIMMY CHOO
CARTIER
LOUIS VUITTON
GUCCI
HOUSE 99
HERMÈS
MONCLER
CÉLINE
VACHERON CONSTANTIN
BALENCIAGA
YEEZY
MOSCHINO
P. 7
P. 8
P. 9
P. 10
P. 11
P. 12
P. 15
P. 16
P. 17
P. 18
P. 21
P. 22
P. 23

5. Gender
pervasive
brands
THE KEY ARGUMENT
"There are endless permutations of individual identity. A few
years ago, people were talking about race or ethnicity, then
body type, abilities, and age. Now we’re looking at the fluid
self—identity as a vast and ever-changing range of ideas
that should all be celebrated,"
Brenda Milis.
Principal of creative services and visual Trends at Adobe
Gucci

6. At one time (the 90s apparently) gender identity was almost set in
stone. Men were OF COURSE wanted by women and women were
OBJECTS of sex in advertising.
This cannot be the case anymore.
Gender identity is going through an intense time in advertising. This
has meant that for the first time in a long time brands are fully
embracing the fact that they don’t know (or don’t want to know
anymore) what to stand for and how to represent us..
This is not a bad news.
In short: real uncertainty is better than fake truths.
Takeaways
CONSENSUAL SEX SELLS FOR BRANDS.

7. Paco Rabanne
IN SHORT: Paco Rabanne’s
campaign for their latest
perfume, Pure XS, features
model Francisco Henriques as
the heir to a wealthy family that
lives in an extremely opulent
house. Women are watching
him from behind a two-way
mirror, losing control as he
undresses for a bath, until they
cannot handle it anymore and
faint.
WHY IT MATTERS: The ad
highlights the duality of men,
who can be both “respectable an
indecent” at the same time. A
man which oozes sexual power,
is desired by women, yet never
succumbs. He hunts without
hunting as the mirror protects
both sides from proper intent.
Pure XS

9. Jimmy Choo
IN SHORT: the brand’s SS18
campaign, addressing both
women and men, paints a
flirtatious picture of New York
City. Going back and forth
between the man & the
woman’s apartment, we see
them flirt and dance, leading
to a suggestive "to be
continued” message at the
end of the ad.
WHY IT MATTERS: A move
towards breaking down the
divide between men and
women fashion advertising.
However, inspired by 1954”s
classic Rear Window (directed
by Alfred Hitchcock), the 2
heroes are presented as living in
2 parallel universes: maybe a
way to - still – maintain the
divide.
SS 18

11. Cartier
IN SHORT : A short film
created by Oscar-winning
director, Sofia Coppola,
featuring actress Courtney
Eaton wearing the Cartier
watch and living the
“Hollywood Dream”.
WHY IT MATTERS: The
Panthère watch originally came
out in the 1980s but was
discontinued in the early 2000s
for being out of style. This ad is
all about rejuvenating this watch
and making it “of its time”. It’s not
an out-of-trend 80s watch for
older women, it is a watch for
modern women, women who are
entrepreneurs, sexy, glamour
and funny all at once. It puts
free-will at the centre stage:
women can do what they want,
when they want, with whomever
they want.
And Sofia Coppola

13. House 99
IN SHORT: The ad for
Beckham’s latest grooming
product range developed in
collaboration with House 99. It
features Beckham and other
models, with the camera
travelling around them as they
groom their hair and beards.
WHY IT MATTERS: This is an
ad targeted at men that gets rid
of all the preconceived ideas of
what men-oriented marketing
and advertising should be, while
still being one of the most
masculine ad out there. No cars,
no women, no money, no
seduction and no sex, but
subtlety and elegance. House 99
x David Beckham showcases
masculinity in a more complex,
gentle and emotionally astute
way.
And David Beckham

15. Louis Vuitton
IN SHORT : Artistic Director of
Louis Vuitton, Nicolas
Ghesquiere, featured Jaden
Smith in an otherwise all-
female cast of models for the
brand's spring-summer three-
part campaign.
WHY IT MATTERS: It features
Jaden Smith but as himself in
women’s clothing. In other words,
he’s not a man in transition or
wearing gender neutral clothes,
nor wearing women-inspired
menswear - he’s a man wearing
women’s clothes without looking
like a girl. It’s not unisex, it’s not
gender neutral or gender-
bending, the clothes haven’t
changed, the person wearing
them has. While the idea of men
wearing women’s clothes is still
largely taboo, this ad is a first
step in the direction of
normalizing self-expression...
And Jaden Smith

17. Gucci
IN SHORT: Shot by Glen
Luchford, this Gucci Guilty ad
features Jared Leto alongside
models Julia Hafstrom and
Vera Van Erop. The press
release describes the ad as:
"The trio explores each other
and their surroundings in a
liberated expression of
sexuality.”
WHY IT MATTERS: While Leto
has been blurring gender lines
for a long time now, in this ad,
Leto stars as the face of both
men's and women's iteration of
Gucci Guilty, a move no brand
has ever made before. This ad is
ground-breaking in that it
represents people, rather than
representing gender. With the
hashtag#GuiltyNotGuilty, Gucci's
message is that people should
not feel guilty about expressing
their individuality.
Guilty

19. Gucci Guilty
WeChat:
Permanent
Pop-up store
THE KEY ARGUMENT
“The idea that e-commerce and social media are separated
is really not the case in China. Users are on apps at least 30
minutes a day,”
“Nobody spends 30 minutes a day on the same site
shopping. The thing is they are not just shopping. [Users
are] interacting with each other, sharing pictures and asking
for advice.”
Sébastien Badault
Managing director of France at Alibaba Group
Celine

20. WeChat has just cleared 1 billion monthly users and the opportunity
for brands goes much further than brand awareness. Unlike western
channels WeChat presents the opportunity to create a complete
sales cycle, from prospecting to post-purchase, within one app.
The means brands are creating their own ‘pop-up’ stores within the
app. They can promote via the app, browse via the app, and even
purchase and pay via the app.
A pop-up store has traditionally been a marketing opportunity to
make connections with new consumers, give them a first at the
brand, offer them exclusives and eventually retain them as a
customer. As traditional retail sales descend, WeChat takes this
mission online.
In short: brands are pushing for social experience which are
about to be similar to physical sensations. This growing
interfacing of our body and minds does not seem to slow down.
Takeaways
WE CHAT TURNS

21. Hermès
IN SHORT: Hermès launched
the new Apple watch series 3
to the Chinese audience on
WeChat only. The brand
launched the ‘pop-up’ on the
channel giving users the
chance to register an account-
leaving their information and
you had to complete payment
for the deals via WeChat.
WHY IT MATTERS: Hermès
created a full buying cycle
online, from first posting the
offer to buying the watch. It
completely eradicated the need
for an offline interaction.
Apple watch

23. Céline
IN SHORT: Céline launched
their WeChat account by
posting two things on their
account. One, an article
introducing the Chinese
audience to the ready-to-wear
and leather goods brand. The
second post, published a day
after promoted an upcoming
pop-up store
WHY IT MATTERS: Céline are
notoriously elusive with their
online publishing. They only
officially joined Instagram in
April 2017. WeChat is an ideal
partner for fashion brands
because it offers a seamless
path to purchase, where the
shopper never needs to leave
the comfort of the app.
Pop-up store

25. Vacheron Constantin
IN SHORT: The brand posted
a link to a HTML5 web page in
which readers could pay to
reserve a limited edition
timepiece. In the following
month, customer could
reserve a time and ‘touch’ the
watch at offline stores. The
brand would also arrange the
pick-up of the customer with a
luxury car near their selected
store.
WHY IT MATTERS: It looked
like online shopping yet because
you had the opportunity to go in-
store and feel the watch (and be
picked it) it offered all the ease
of online shopping with the
premium experience that
usually comes with Fine
Watchmaking purchases.
Online and offline shopping

27. Moncler
IN SHORT: With each new
collection Moncler release a
new mini-programme
platform, allow their to sell
their products via the app.
Each new collection has a
dedicate programme.
WHY IT MATTERS: China and
East Asia accounts for 40% of
Moncler’s revenue. The brands
CEO described WeChat as an
‘integrated Ecosystem’. The goal
is to connect their official online
store with WeChat to create a
more consistent e-commerce
experience.
Platforms

29. Yeezy
Embracing
paparazzi
THE KEY ARGUMENT
“As fashion switched its attention to social media,
Instagram destabilised the paparazzi’s primacy by allowing
celebrities themselves to create their own content and self-
publish their ‘real’ lives”
Bella Gladman
Freelance writer for Dazed Magazine

30. In 1950s celebrities and models’ off-duty styles were not shot with
the gram, but via paparazzi photos.
At this era, pap shots became a way to look inside the secret lives of
those with fame and wealth. Unlike the “Kardashian - Jenner’s
family” ’90s It-girls who didn’t have a platform to show off their
designer-gifted clothes and shoes, started to use Instagram as a
personal media.
These iconic images are not only providing major style inspiration
for fashion lovers everywhere, but also indirectly served as publicity
for brands and designers at the time.
In short: embracing the fakeness of paparazzi-style photos is a
new driver for business. Far more profitable than suing
photographers.
Takeaways
EMBRACE ‘FINSTA’

31. Balenciaga
IN SHORT: The ad for
Balenciaga’s latest collection
developed in collaboration
with Best Image Agency. It
features Balenciaga models,
being surrounded by Paparazzi
shot, as they were celebrities
hiding from their own fame.
WHY IT MATTERS: The ad
highlights the message that the
brand is the “real source of
fame” and that celebrities and
influencers are only muse.
Balenciaga want to re-center the
attention of fans on the brand. A
way to subjugate Instagram
influencers influence, by using
original one : paparazzi.
SS18

33. Yeezy
IN SHORT: The ad for Yeezy’s
latest collection developed in
collaboration with American
wire and Splash news’
agencies. It features the most
famous Insta beloved
personalities such as Kendall
Jenner, Kim Kardashian- West
or Paris Hilton models, being
shot as their everyday life by
paparazzi shot.
WHY IT MATTERS: Conversely
to Balenciaga campaign, the ad
highlights the message that
celebrities are the fashion ruler,
and that real fashion come from
them. By uniformising same
clothes, on several celebrities,
the Kanye West message was a
strenght demonstration of the
celebrities influence on Public
opinion & fashionista.
Season 6

35. Moschino
IN SHORT: The ad for
Moschino’s latest collection
developed by Jeremy Scott. It
features Gigi and Bella Haddid
fighting off swarm of
paparazzi, as they were in a
showroom for an exhibition .
WHY IT MATTERS: The ad
highlights the traditional message
that brand, celebrities, and
paparazzi are interdependent. In
a wealthy fashion circle. A way to
steal an iconic brand by using
icons that are shot by iconic
magazine, but also to reach the
most famous neo-icons platform
: Instagram.
SS17

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