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Technological development in wet processing technology

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Technological development in wet processing technology

  1. 1. SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY Department of Textile Engineering 15/04/16 Technological Development in Wet Processing Technology MahamudulIslam Lecturer, Department of Textile Submitted By: Name: Rifad Hossain Id: 2013000400011 Batch: 22, Sec: WPT
  2. 2. Contents Introduction……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………1 Dyes and Chemicals ....................................................................................................................3 Preparation Innovations ..............................................................................................................5 Dyeing Innovations .....................................................................................................................5 Finishing Innovations ..................................................................................................................8 Recent developments in febric preparation process………………………………………………………9 Peracetic Acid (PAA) Bleaching an Eco-friendly Alternative……………..9 Implementation of Single Stage Preparatory Process………………………………………………….11 Application of Plasma Technology…………………………………………………………………………….13 Dyeing in Supercritical Fluids (DSF):…………………………………………………………………………17 Foam Finishing…………………………………………………………………………………………………………18 Ultrasonic Assisted Textile Processing………………………………………………………………………19 Conclusion……………………………………………………………………………………………………………….22 Reference………………………………………………………………………………………..22
  3. 3. Introduction The textile industry has been developing rapidly and newer technologies are introduced and the only formula for survival is encapsulating those innovations into the manufacturing process and making the best of use them for increasing the productivity and quality, says Chitra Siva Sankar. Textile industry is a traditional and a very old industry, and has been amidst almost all kinds of culture around the world from the very beginning, which almost proves the point that the history of human culture and the textiles are the same. A wide spectrum of processes is involved in the textile industry. Starting from fibre manufacturing to the final processing and garmenting stage, involves a lot of technologies and skills, which leads to a quality conversion of fibres into the ultra-modern fashion or a high performance commodity in the case of technical textiles. The first major change in the textile industry took place somewhere during the industrial revolution which lead to the advent of the machines in to the manufacturing processes in the textile industry. This major breakthrough lead to reduction in the work load of the labours and pronounced the dawn of machines in the textile industry. After that there have been a lot of developments in the various sectors of the textile industry, and the following would throw light on the latest developments that have taken place in the major segments of textile industry, namely spinning, weaving, knitting and processing Textiles have undergone chemical wet processing since time immemorial. Human ingenuity and imagination, craftsmanship and resourcefulness are evident in textile products throughout the ages. We are to this day awed by beauty and sophistication of textiles sometimes found in archeological excavations. Developments in the wet processing of textile materials introduce new techniques and methods to reduce the energy, chemicals, time involved during various operations to obtain novel finishes. Application of ultrasonic waves, microwave dyeing, plasma technology, supercritical carbon dioxide, and electrochemical dyeing of textiles are some of the revolutionary ways to advance the textile wet processing. Unable to withstand the pressure generated on account of the pollution levels, eco- friendly alternatives are also being developed continuously besides novel technologies. The uniformity of dyed materials mainly depends on the efficiency of fabric preparatory processes. The removal of natural and added impurities thoroughly from the fabrics to achieve uniform whiteness throughout the fabrics is most important for the production concern. Many factors exert significant influences upon the path of technological developments in the wet processing and many of the factors include comparable quality with existing processes with or without value addition, chemical compatibility to provide multi-functional process, cost reduction by minimizing the use of energy and water, increased levels of process control, monitoring and automation, eco-
  4. 4. friendly application methods etc. Developments that occur in other branches of engineering and technology are effectively utilized in various processes of textile processing, also, to meet the best requirements for the production sector The theme of ITMA 2015 held in Milan in November was “Master the Art of Sustainable Innovation.” The exhibitors took this theme to heart as the materials and machinery seen all focused on providing the textile industry with more sustainable wet processing. Although the main emphasis was on water and energy savings through modifications to existing equipment, a few truly innovative developments were on display. Dyes and Chemicals Cuyahoga Falls, Ohio-based Americhem, a supplier of additives for fiber producers, offered two new products — mBrace™, a REACH compliant hydrophilic additive; and Nofia™, a non- halogen flame retardant (FR) additive for polyester. Americhem also provides a new masterbatch service; color trend reports; and has opened a new technical center in Manchester, England, for customer product development. The central component Archroma’s Inkpresso® System is the Inkpresso Ink Formulation Unit. Switzerland-based Archroma showed two non-fluorine water repellent finishes — Smartrepel® Hydro CMD for cotton and cotton blend fabrics, and Smartrepel® Hydro PM for man-made fabrics. Both products are based on microencapsulation technology. Archroma also introduced Earthcolors, a line of dyes manufactured from nut shells, leaves and other agricultural waste. Six dyes are available yielding brown, grey, and olive shades and are applied using a similar processes to the process used with sulfur dyes. A key feature of the Earthcolors program is a traceable supply chain from raw material to retailer, ensuring that sustainable processes were carried out in the production of the dyed garment. England-based Avocet Dye & Chemical Co. Ltd. exhibited several Oeko-Tex® approved flame retardants. CETAFLAM® DB9 is a durable finish for polyester fabrics, Cetaflam PD 3300 is a
  5. 5. semi-durable finish for cotton fabrics, and Cetaflam PD 3MW is a non-durable finish suitable for multiple fibers. A variety of new textile chemicals were presented by Germany-based CHT/Bezema Group. Vario Bleach 3E is a bluesign®-approved bleaching agent for cotton fabric, which is effective at 70°C. Ecoperl Active is CHT’s non-fluorine water repellent offering, and Egasol Up is a unique polyester dyebath additive that allows for very rapid dyebath heating — 5°C/minute — while maintaining level dyeings. Dyestuff producer Singapore-based Dystar offers Realan Black MF-PV, a new black dye for wool as an alternative to Mordant Black 9. A fiber reactive dye series called Levafix® ECO, which is not based on p-chloroaniline, was presented at ITMA. ECO Black, Navy, Forest currently are available. India-based Green Wave Global Ltd. showed a novel enzyme for bleaching cotton. Progen+ is active under neutral conditions at 60°C and forms peracetic acid in-situ. Excellent whiteness, minimum fabric degradation, and acceptable mote removal are achieved. More non-fluorine water repellents were exhibited by Switzerland-based HeiQ Materials AG. Barrier ECO-Dry for man-mades and Barrier ECO-Cel for cotton and cotton blends offer enhanced durability Kyung-In Synthetic Corp. (Kisco), a Korea-based dyestuff supplier, presented Synozol Ultra DS dyes, a series of seven dyes for medium and dark shades that can be used in exhaust, continuous, and screen-printing applications. Denmark-based enzyme supplier Novozymes, emphasized four concepts for processing textiles with enzymes: denim processing; biopolishing at a neutral pH with a silicone softener; processing Tencel®/cotton blends; and fully preparing cotton with only enzymes and natural soaps. The latter process was demonstrated with the Geo towel, a soft, absorbent 100-percent cotton towel. Novel chemical coatings containing graphene were shown by Italy-based Prochimica® Novarese S.p.A. These coatings combined graphene — sheets of single layer carbon atoms — with traditional coating materials to provide electrically conductive, antistatic and water- repellent properties to textiles. Germany-based Pulcra Chemicals focuses on active textile finishes. Highlights include Silvadur®, a silver-based antimicrobial with a patented release mechanism; and Repellan® ECO100, a non-fluorine water repellent with bluesign, GOTS, and Oeko-Tex approvals. A new halogen-free FR product was presented by Germany-based Schill+Seilacher GmbH. Flacavon FU3110 is intended for use with polyester technical textiles and home furnishings. The company reports it anticipates commercializing a non-fluorine water repellent soon.
  6. 6. Preparation Innovations Switzerland-based Benninger AG exhibited the Trikoflex drum washer, which has been completely redesigned for use with technical textiles. The washer now is available in widths up to 5.5 meters. Benninger also showed the Tempacta, a low-tension steamer-washer designed for knit goods. Italy-based Lafer S.p.A. presented the liquid ammonia treatment range Permafix for knit goods. Specially designed rollers control fabric shrinkage and 95-percent of the ammonia used during processing can be recovered and recycled. A singer designed for wide nonwovens was shown by Germany-based Karl Menzel Maschinenfabrik GmbH & Co. The singer has enhanced process controls with improved fuel efficiencies and higher production speeds, according to the company. Italy-based MCS Group debuted the Starwash FS, an open-width drum washer designed for efficient of washing digital prints under minimum tension. MCS also presented the Multiwash, a combination J-box and spray rope washer that provides efficient washing with significant savings of time and energy. Dyeing Innovations A dyeing machine with the capability to dye knit and woven fabrics at extremely low liquor ratios was introduced by Acme Machinery Industry Co. Ltd., Taiwan. The AM-ICD incorporates a conveyor belt system that allows polyester to be dyed at a liquor ratio of 1:2.5 and cotton to be dyed at a liquor ratio of 1:3.5 under very low tension. England-based Adaptive Control Solutions Inc. presented the Flow Book, a data storage system that captures all relevant dyehouse data, which can be displayed on smart phones to allow for rapid information transfer. The design of the Rotora beam-dyeing machine from France-based Alliance Machines Textiles has been improved to allow lower liquor ratios during dyeing. The Labojet from Alliance is a laboratory dyeing machine for dyeing small accessories. Italy-based Loris Bellini S.r.l. emphasized the Pulsar, a package dyeing machine designed to dye yarns at a 1:3.8 liquor ratio. According to the company, the Pulsar operates with 25-percent less steam, chemicals, and compressed air than traditional package dyeing machines as well as uses 70-percent less energy for bath recirculation.
  7. 7. The Küsters DyePad from Benninger is designed for the cold pad batch dyeing of knits. The Küsters DyePad from Benninger is designed for the cold pad batch dyeing of knits. The DyePad is especially useful for short dye runs and operates under very low tension to minimize fabric distortions. Italy-based Brazzoli S.p.A. introduced the latest Ecologic jet-dyeing machine, which incorporates a wash system that measures water consumption. The machine can process up to 750 kilograms of fabric at a liquor ratio of 1:4. An improved hank dyeing machine was shown by Italy-based Cubotex S.r.l. The Unimat was designed to combine the capabilities of both cabinet and spray machines into one and can operate at temperatures of up to 100 °C with 30-percent less dye bath, according to the company. The Netherlands-based DyeCoo Textile Systems BV has commercialized its super critical carbon dioxide beam dyeing machine in Taiwan and Thailand. According to the company, polyester fabric can be dyed to 98 percent dye exhaustion with no need for the usual reduction clearing step with overall process savings of 40 to 50 percent realized. If preparation prior to dyeing is required, conventional aqueous preparation should be carried out. A ready for commercialization dyeing machine for dyeing polyester yarn packages with super critical carbon dioxide was presented by eCO2dye, Allentown, Pa. Units with yarn capacities of 10, 50, and 100 kilograms (kg) are available with 50-percent reductions in energy and chemical usage expected, according to the company. Italy-based Flainox S.r.l. introduced an enhanced high-temperature garment dyeing machine. The e3 machine is available in 10- and 30-kg capacities and features automated loading and unloading. Hong Kong-based CHTC Fong’s Industries Co. Ltd. highlighted the Superwin, a package dyeing machine with the capability of employing a unique single flow procedure with appropriate yarns. Liquor ratios as low as 1:3 can be achieved.
  8. 8. Germany-based Fong’s Europe GmbH showed the Goller Economica Dye Pad, a heated dye pad designed for open-width knit goods. The pad has been designed to minimize fabric distortions on delicate fabrics. Lab-Pro’s Dyewa machine features a rotating perforated beam whereby the dye bath is sprayed from the interior of the beam onto the fabric wound on the beam. An truly innovative beam dyeing machine was debuted by Switzerland-based Lab-Pro GmbH. The Dyewa machine features a rotating perforated beam whereby the dye bath is sprayed from the interior of the beam onto the fabric wound on the beam. Both cotton and polyester fabrics can be dyed in 200 kg batches using up to 40-percent less water than conventional beam dyeings, according to the company. Italy-based Laip S.r.l. offered two low liquor ratio jet-dyeing machines. The Airjet 2000 can dye fabric at a liquor ratio of 1:3, while the Jet 250HT is capable of operating at a liquor ratio of 1:1.8. The Dos-Chem dosing system was presented by Italy-based Lawer S.p.A. The system provides automated dosing and dispensing of dyes and chemicals for laboratory and pilot plant dyeings and includes automated weighing and dissolving of liquids and powders. MCS introduced the Dynamica Sprint high-temperature jet-dyeing machine that allows five-hour dye cycles at a liquor ratio of 1:3.5. The machine has a unique heat-recovery system that provides for significantly lower energy requirements. A new wash box design for indigo dye ranges was shown by Morrison Textile Machinery, Fort Lawn, S.C. The Peak washer has a patented flow system that reduces water usage by 50 percent, and also leads to increased rebeaming efficiency by minimizing yarns distortions, according to the company. Oasis® Dyeing Systems LLC, Leesville, S.C., presented the Oasis® process, a continuous dyeing process for 100-percent cotton that incorporates a Gaston County foam dyeing system on fabric that has previously been pretreated with the Oasis treatment. This treatment permits fiber reactive dyeing with no salt, alkali, thickeners or afterwashing.
  9. 9. An automated package dyeing machine for lab and pilot plant was introduced by Obem S.p.A., Italy. The four-tube machine can accommodate up to 10 packages per tube in either a horizontal or vertical configuration with automated loading and unloading. France-based Rousselet Robatel displayed its continuous treatment line for fiber bleaching, dyeing, and finishing applications. The conveyor belt system can accommodate production speeds from 100 to 1,000 kg per hour. A new approach to indigo dyeing called Smart-Indigo™ was shown by Switzerland-based Sedo Engineering S.A. Leuco indigo is produced electrically under an argon atmosphere resulting in reduced pollution and significantly reduced chemical costs, according to the company. Italy-based Tecnorama exhibited Shakerama, a high-temperature laboratory dyeing system that simulates the liquor ratios and mechanical action of production dyeing machines. Dyes and chemicals are automatically measured and dispensed by the system. An innovatively designed jet-dyeing machine was presented by Fong’s Europe. The Then Supratec LTM features adjustable liquor ratios — ranging from 1:6 to 1:12 — and kier angles to accommodate a wide range of fabrics. The Then Airflow® Synergy 8 jet-dyeing machine on display at ITMA can operate at liquor ratios of 1:3.5 and consuming up to 25-percent less energy, according to the company. Thies GmbH & Co. KG, Germany, introduced the DyeControl dyebath monitoring system that measures pH, salt, and dye concentrations, as well as total water consumption. This information can lead to reduced cycle times and water usage, according to the company. Thies also introduced the iMaster Mini, a lab and pilot plant version of its iMaster H2O production dyeing machine. Finishing Innovations Commercial scale atmospheric pressure plasma equipment was shown by APJeT® Inc., Morrisville, N.C. A variety of surface properties — including repellency, antimicrobial and antistatic — can be achieved in a continuous process without heat or water. APJeT’s Morrisville facility is available for pilot trials and proof of concept experiments. Italy-based Biancalani S.r.l. exhibited the Brio® 24, a low-tension dryer for knit goods. A combination of vibrating trays and hot air flow allows for high throughput with minimal fabric distortions, according to the company.
  10. 10. Brückner’s Power-Frame Ecoline offers enhanced air flow and heat recovery. A tenter frame with enhanced air flow and heat recovery was presented by Germany-based Brückner Trockentechnik GmbH & Co. KG. The Power-Frame Ecoline is equipped with a new control system to maximize productivity and minimize energy consumption. Brückner also showed the Eco-Coat, a chemical applicator that minimizes wet pickup. Switzerland-based Cavitec AG, a member of the Santex Rimar Group, introduced the Cavimelt P+P, a hot melt coater/laminator designed for small production lots and startup companies. Cavitec has incorporated the unwinding and rewinding sections into the compact unit to reduce the machine’s overall footprint. A vacuum plasma system was shown by Belgium-based Europlasma NV. The Plasma Guard system currently offers seven different surface treatments for garments and small articles. Spain-based Iberlaser exhibited equipment for the continuous laser treatment of denim. The Delta machine is designed to treat full-width denim fabric, while the Zeta machine is intended for treating denim garments. Spain-based Icomatex S.A. presented an innovative approach to wash box design. The Icowash incorporates submerged vacuum slots to enhance washing efficiency. Higher production speeds, cleaner fabrics, and reduced water consumption are benefits reported by the company. A new knit compactor was shown by Lafer. The Go-Rubber is an open-width knit compactor that includes both rubber and felt belts to efficiently achieve high levels of compaction. Germany-based Mahlo GmbH & Co. KG introduced the Orthomax RFMB-12, a fabric straightener for woven fabrics. A combination of both pins and bow rollers provides for optimal straightening. The Rotolabo Multi-600 coater was debuted by Italy-based Matex S.r.l. This machine is equipped with multiple coating heads for lab, pilot plant, or small production lots and is capable of reaching curing temperatures of 400°C. Germany-based A. Monforts Textilmaschinen GmbH & Co. KG presented the Montex XXL tenter designed especially for nonwovens. The Montex XXL can accommodate fabrics up to seven meters wide. Monforts also showcased the Thermex Thermo, a denim finishing range with production speeds of up to 80 meters per minute. Two tubular knit processing machines were shown by Navis TubeTex, Lexington, N.C. The SCS — Spirality Correction System — is a patented system that efficiently removes torque from tubular knits. The company also highlighted the Pak-Nit e3+, which is a high-speed tubular knit compactor that can process two strands simultaneously.
  11. 11. Switzerland-based Santex-Rimar AG, a member of the Santex Rimar Group, introduced the SantaSynpact, an open-width-knit compactor. The SantaSynpact combines rubber and felt belts and can reach production speeds of up to 60 meters per minute. The Decofast 3.5 was exhibited by Italy-based Sperotto Rimar, also a member of the Santex Rimar Group. This high-speed continuous pressure decator can process a variety of natural, man- made, and blended fabrics. Recent developments in febric preparation process: Attempts have been made, in the past few decades, to optimize the individual unit operations involved in wet processing to derive the advantages in the respective unit operations1–3. New methods involving low temperature, low pH and eco-friendly chemicals are also explored for reducing the pollution and effluents generated during various operations in industrial sectors. However, a logical approach to conserve energy and materials in the preparatory processes is to shorten the sequence by combining the three operations, desizing, scouring, bleaching, commonly known as DSB process. Most of the combined preparation processes have failed mainly due to inadequate removal of seed coats/mote. Various combined processes have been developed in the past using different chemicals and also using new formulations for scourant 1– 3. Peracetic Acid (PAA) Bleaching an Eco-friendly Alternative: Any substitute to the traditional bleaching agent NaOCl, should be a product with comparable redox potential. In case of low temperature bleaching it has been introduced peracids as stronger oxidizing agents than hydrogen peroxide (Table- 1). Use of PAA as a bleaching agent has been discussed by many authors for different fibres like cotton, flax, nylon 4 –9. The rate of decomposition and consumption of PAA vary over a range of bleaching temperature at different pH with varieties of alkalis. PAA consumption is slow when sodium hydroxide (NaOH) is used as an activator, at different values of pH and temperature, whereas consumption is quicker and rapid with inclusion of magnesium carbonate. PAA is produced industrially by mixing acetic acid with hydrogen peroxide in presence of an acid catalyst. At higher pH and temperature, PAA decomposes spontaneously to produce acetic acid and oxygen. The chemical reaction can be expressed as in mechanism -1.
  12. 12. Fabrics treated with PAA at neutral pH at room temperature for about an hour followed by alkaline peroxide bleaching at 90°C have shown a brightness of greater than 90 Berger units, significantly with less fibre damage and crease marks. PAA is used for the removal of heat setting discoloration from nylon, carried out at pH 6.0 –7.5 for about an hour at 80°C using 0.3% solution. The similar process also could be used for viscose rayon, secondary acetate and triacetate materials. Table- 1: Potential of oxidizing agents Agents Potential (eV) Ozone +2.07 PAA +1.81 ClO2 +1.57 NaOCl +1.36 The main advantage of bleaching with PAA instead of hydrogen peroxide is that satisfactory degree of whiteness can be obtained at 60°C, within 40 min at neutral pH without addition of auxiliary agents. Optimum whiteness index can be achieved at temperatures around 50°C and 90°C and bleaching time over 60 min yields significantly higher brightness4. For a given degree of whiteness, the percentage strength loss and the extent of chemical damage are the least for PAA followed by hydrogen peroxide10. The absorbency time and tearing strength decreases steadily up to a pH 7 value and the bleached fabrics show comparable fastness properties with reactive dyes5. Implementation of Single Stage Preparatory Process: Single stage preparatory process using hydrogen peroxide has been developed successfully for starch and acrylic-base sized textile materials previously 11,12 . In such processes, caustic soda provides required alkalinity for scouring and activation of hydrogen peroxide and when activated, hydrogen peroxide degrades the sizing materials at lower temperature and at higher temperature, bleaching occur along with completion of desizing. Higher alkalinity at elevated temperature produces efficient scouring action. A self-emulsifiable solvent system of bleaching has
  13. 13. been developed to combine the three different processes involved in the preparatory process. The system uses a high proportion of water, very low levels of solvents and hydrogen peroxide. The presence of hydrogen peroxide helps both desizing and bleaching and the emulsified solvent results in the scouring of cotton fabric11. Since the system involves very low quantity of solvent content, need for a solvent recovery plant is obviated. In the case of sodium chloride (NaCl)- hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) system, free radical mechanism( Mechanism-2) is responsible for the bleaching action. Various free radicals created during the treatment resulted in disintegration and destruction of foreign matters present in the cotton. The bleaching effect is more distinct with peroxide than sodium chlorite, even at the higher concentrations. Presence of co-oxidants impedes the decomposition of each other, especially at their lower concentrations. The reactions under alkaline medium are initiated as chain reaction by the production of different free radical in different steps. The different step of the reaction is shown below: The HO· and HOO· radicals react with the chlorite ions and, as the result, a reaction chain is perpetuated as suggested as: These free radicals enhance the bleaching effect of NaCl by H2O2 when used at their higher concentration. Thus created free radicals seem to disintegrate the impurities and destroy the coloring matters of the cotton. Various recipes that have been developed for the single stage preparatory process summarized in Table -2. In case of the hypochlorite-solvent assisted single stage preparatory process 13-15, the whiteness index and tensile strength exhibit approximately a linear relationship with available chlorine in sodium hypochlorite solution at various treatment at a time range from 45 to 225 min. Better wetting time is obtained at the scouring agent concentration of 8% at a temperature of 50°C – 55°C, which is closer to the cloud point of
  14. 14. the non-ionic emulsifier used in the recipe. In the peroxide-alkali process, absence of either sodium hydroxide or hydrogen peroxide in the peroxide based process results very low weight loss, indicating very low efficiency11. Table- 2: Recommended recipes for single stage preparatory process (SSPP). Process Name Recipes/Procedure Ref. Peroxide- alkali media H2O2: 1.0 g/L, NaOH:10 g/L, Wetting agent: 1.0 g/L, Temperature: 95° C, Time: 120 min, pH = 10.5-11.5( using Soda ash) 4 Peroxide- solvent assisted scourant- Starch sized fabrics Scouring agent : 4%, Peroxide: 2%, Sodium silicate : 1%, Wetting agent : 0.1%, Temperature : 95°C, Time :180 min, pH = 10 5 Peroxide- solvent assisted scourant – crylic-base size Scouring agent : 4% , Peroxide :1%, Sodium Silicate : 1%, Wetting agent : 0.1%, Temperature : 95°C, Time :180 min, pH = 10 5 Peroxide- solvent assisted scourant Scouring agent : 4% o.w.f., H2O2: 1%, Na2SiO3 : 2%, Na3PO4 : 2%, or tetra sodium pyrophosphate, pH = 11, Time :12 min – 16 min/24 h at 40°C 11 Hypochlorite- solvent assisted scourant Solvent based scouring agent : 2%, NaOCl : 6 g/L (avg. Cl2 ), Temperature : 40°C, Time :180 min, M : L –1: 20, pH = 11 8,9 Sodium Chlorite – peroxide process NaClO2: 3 g/L, Na2HPO4: 10 g/L, NI Wetting agent : 2 g/L, pH =10, Time : 90 min, Temperature : 95°C, M : l – 1 : 20 7 Sodium Chlorite –Solvent assisted scourant Sodium Chlorite : 0.8 – 1.95%, Scouring Agent : 2%, (activators as stated in the text), Temperature : 30 – 55°C, Time : 5 h – 14 h, pH = 4.6 (buffered) & 8 – 9(un-buffered) 6 Peroxide – alkali process Sodium Hydroxide : 20 g/L, Hydrogen Peroxide : 30 ml/L -40 ml/L, Peroxidisulphate : 5 g/L, Sodium Silicate : 20 ml/ L, Surfactant : 10 5
  15. 15. g/L, Stabilizer : 5 ml/L Flash steam process Ciba Tinoclarite FS :15 ml/kg – 30 ml/kg, NaOH(100%) : 30 gm/kg – 50 gm/kg, H2O2 (35%) : 49 ml/kg – 90ml/kg 10 In the SSPP, an attempt has also been made to improve the efficiency by carrying out the process using microwave of 600w for duration of 30sec to 3 min. The process involves steaming of the fabric with the simultaneous exposure to the microwave energy. In another narrative approach, flash steam procedure has been used to combine all the preparatory processes into a single step. Application of Plasma Technology: The plasma technology is considered to be very interesting future oriented process owing to its environmental acceptability and wide range of applications. Plasma is the fourth state of matter besides solid, liquid and gas which contains ionized gas comprising of ions, electrons, atoms and molecules. Presence of free electrons and other charged particles converts plasma as electrically conducting and responsive to electricity. The plasma modifies the fabric surface by the bombardment with high energy electrons and ions shown in Figure- 1. The classification systems of plasmas is often based on temperature, pressure, type of current used, and the types of gaseous matters used in the plasma processes, types of substrates used and the results appear to vary depending upon the effects targeted. Figure -1: Plasma (a) A mixture of reactive species, (b) Principle of plasma dying. Reactive gases, inert gases, water vapor and combination of these are used on all types of textile materials depending upon the applications16. The mean free path of gas particles, typical distances in the fabric structures like inter-fibre distance and inter-yarn distances have to be considered in the
  16. 16. plasma processing17, 18. Plasma treatment causes ablation (Figure -2) of fibres surface by introducing different kinds of surface roughness such as cracks and fissures. Figure- 2: Effect of plasma treatment on fabrics surface. The structure and construction of yarn play major roles in deciding the efficiency of plasma processing. The presence of impurities in the raw fibres, additives present in the yarn and fabrics also intervene during the plasma processing. The free radicals produced in the treatments can undergo reactions depending upon the gases present in the atmosphere. The acidification of raw cotton increases with increase in purity of cotton fibres and the change in pH was to the extent of about 1.0 for raw cotton whereas it increases to above 2.0 for bleached fibres. Even very high power supply with prolonged treatment results in no significant change in tenacity and elongation at break values for both PET and cotton fabrics. The voids and cracks developed in PET also aid penetration of moisture. Plasma treatment offers effect which are often decaying in nature, i.e., ageing or durability effect. Grafting of flame retardant monomers has been successfully carried out on the cotton fabrics to obtain durable effects than that is possible with conventional surface deposits. Development of self - cleaning cotton textiles through RF-plasma, MW-plasma and UV -radiation to introduce functional groups to anchor TiO2 on textile surface shows the formation of TiO2 crystallites with 5 - 7 nm size immediately, from the precursor 19. Plasma processing has been attempted in desizing of PVA sized viscose rayon, starch sized cotton yarns, scouring of cotton and wool fibres using cold plasma20. These reactions occurred mainly due to ablation of surface, removal of starch and hydrophobic substances. The subsequent washing reduces the wetting time to less than1 sec. The percent desizing ratio21 reaches up to 97%, air-oxygen-helium plasma yields better weight loss (up to 2.8%) compared to air-helium plasma 2.3%. The contact angle decreases considerably after oxygen plasma treatment compared to untreated samples and the plasma treatment followed by scouring results in the residual wax content to 8.0% in cotton and wool.
  17. 17. Surface modification of textile materials to create a reactive surface suitable for dyeing and finishing treatments has been attempted by many researchers17, 19,. The effect of plasma treatment on fabrics made of various fibres and the relevant results are summarized in Table-3. Table- 3: Effect of plasma finishing on various fabrics. Fibre Process Name Procedure Effects Result Cotton Hydrophilicity and wettability (RF- plasma) Hydrophobicity Air – O2 plasma, low pressure 0.6-8 mbar Air-O2 plasma, low temperature at 9 pa pressure, 70w – 120w CF4 ,C3F6 plasma 100, 300w, 50 m & 75 m, Torr for CF4 50- 160w, 50 m – 150 m Torr for C3F6 Weight loss, increase in C = O, COOH content, increases in vertical wicking Lower results for CF4 than C3F6 Strong etching Generates greater changes in fibres C3F6 polymerizes by plasma and plasma inducing methods. CF4 yields plasma polymerization atomic fluorine only. Linen Wicking (RF- plasma) Ar – O2 plasma, pressure 15 pa with power 100w, 200w Weight loss, etching effects, wicking rate decreases No significant effects on prolonged exposure but causes degradation Flax Topographical study (RF- plasma) Ar- O2 plasma, 200w, frequency 13.56 MHz, pressure 15pa Etching of surface and revelation of fibrillar structure O2 plasma shows faster rate, bigger micropores, shrinkage
  18. 18. Hydrophilicity (RF -plasma) Water vapor, power, 100w and pressure 100pa Removal of fatty layer, generation of hydrophilic groups Epicuticle is removed Wool Shrink resistance (Glow discharge) (RF- plasma) O2-plasma, low temperature, at 10pa pressure Felting decreases, becomes shrink resistance, alkaline solubility increases and dyes faster Micropores and cleft created. Subsequent enzyme treatment enhances handle and dyeability PolyesterIncreased surface energy and wettability (RF- plasma) O2-plasma, low pressure 1– 10pa. low temperature, glow discharge Formation of new groups as – OH, – C=O. Surface energy increased from 24 mJ/m2 to 71 mJ/m2 Creation of surface roughness, loss of hydrogen, appearance changes due to low reflectance Nylon Water repellency (RF- plasma) CF4 plasma power, 100w & 4pa Absorption of F atoms on surface Air resistance and glossiness improves Dyeing in Supercritical Fluids (DSF): Any gas above its critical temperature retains the free mobility of the gaseous state but with increasing pressure its density will increase towards that of a liquid (Figure- 3). Supercritical fluids are highly compressed gases and combine valuable properties of both liquid and gas21. Supercritical fluids have solvent power similar to a light hydrocarbon for most solutes. Solubility increases with increasing density (i.e., with increasing pressure). However, fluorinated compounds are often more soluble in CO2 than in hydrocarbons, which increased solubility, is important for polymerization. A liquid can be converted to a supercritical fluid by increasing the temperature and
  19. 19. consequently its vapor pressure and simultaneously with increasing pressure. A closed system thus reaches the supercritical state, where no boundary between the liquid and gaseous state can be distinguished. Figure- 3: Temperature- pressure relationship of substances. Any increase in pressure subsequently results, increase in dielectric constant and the dissolving power to a greater extent. Carbon dioxide is frequently used as a solvent because of some inherent advantages associated with the system like, non-toxic, non-corrosive and non-hazardous nature; CO2 is produced commercially and can be transported easily. The critical points of the CO2 can be achieved easily compared to other gases. The dissolved dyestuff available for diffusion into the boundary layers in the supercritical fluid is absorbed and diffuses into the fibres. The state of the dyestuff in a super critical solution can virtually be described as gaseous. Supercritical CO2 has almost a plasticizing effect which accelerates the diffusion processes by increasing the chain mobility of the polymeric molecules. This means that it will be absorbed by the fiber at a rate comparable to the high diffusion rates corresponding to that of a gas. The distribution dyestuff-fluid can be continuously shifted in favor of the polymer until after expansion of the gas to standard pressure the solubility in the fluid will be equal to zero, where a theoretical exhaustion level of 100% is achieved. FoamFinishing: The wet processing of textile materials includes highly energy consuming operations, approximately to 80% of total energy requirement of all the operations. Out of this, about 66% of the energy is consumed in heating and evaporation of water from the fibres. Invariably, the liquor retained in the fabric is distributed 22 within and between the fibres in the form of capillary liquid in the available spaces between the yarns and also on the surface of the textile material, i.e., surface bound water. Squeezing the fabric between the nips eliminate the excess liquor available on the surface of the fabric and
  20. 20. the interstices of the yarns, which depends on the nip pressure, hardness of rubber, roller diameter and machine speed or fabric speed. The concept of low add-on is based on the controlled transfer of a reduced quantity of liquor from a dipping roller to the fabrics. Moreover foam application is different from the low add-on technique since air is used to dilute the liquor, which is not the case in the earlier ones. In the foam process the liquor is diluted using the air instead of water that is normally used to apply the chemicals over the textile materials. In foam finishing, most of the water is replaced by air, which leads to a reduction of energy requirements in the drying processes resulting in substantial savings in energy cost. Foam is a colloidal system comprising of mass of gas bubbles dispersed in the liquid continuum23, 24. Foam can be generated by mechanical air blowing, through excess agitation or chemically by introduction of foaming agents or combination of these methods. The relative proportions of air and liquid phases in the foam are designated by blow ratio. Foam stability, density and diameters are the important parameters that need constant attention25. A varying bubble size represents an unbalanced bath density. Foam density in general, varies between 0.14 g/cc – 0.07 g/cc for the foam finishing and 0.33 g/cc – 0.20 g/cc in the foam printing. The selection of the density of the foam depends on the fabric weight and needs to be increased with increasing fabric weight. Foam viscosity depends on the foam density and viscosity of the un-foamed liquor. Increase in foam viscosity results increased foam stability. Bubbles with smaller size are more stable than bigger bubble size and the bubble diameter ranges, generally, from 0.001 mm – 2.0 mm depending on the generation systems. Bubbles or foams, inherently, do not thrive in higher energy environment since higher energy levels results in the destability of the foam25. Destabilization of the foam is also caused by creation of the faults in the foam structure at the air/liquid/air interface. The destruction of foam after application on to the fabrics can be achieved by conventional padding or vacuum application or combination of both. Foam application technique can be used23, 24 in the fabric preparation, dyeing and printing, DP finish, softening, soil-release finish, water, oil repellant finish, FR finish, anti-static finish, mercerization, etc. The foam can be applied either on one or both sides of the fabrics. Horizontal padder, kiss roller coating, knife over the roller coating, knife on air system and slot applicator system are commonly employed in foam applications. Conservation of water and energy has been the centre of research during the past and today also 26,27 and foam finishing process can be used to achieve 80% of water consumption28, the energy consumption by 60% – 65% in the form of gas, electricity depending upon the type of finishing treatment used, obnoxious gases and their related pollution can be
  21. 21. minimized29. The chief advantages of foam application techniques with foam finishing treatment reduces the payback period to as low as six months to two years 24, 25, 9, 10, 11. Ultrasonic Assisted Textile Processing: Sound waves have been classified into infra-sound (up to 16Hz), audible sound (16 Hz –16000 Hz) and ultrasound which include sound waves higher than audible sound with a frequency above approximately 16 kHz up to 106 kHz. Unlike gases and liquid, in solids both longitudinal and transverse waves are transmitted. The effects of ultrasonics actually arise from the way in which sound is propagated through the medium. In liquids, longitudinal vibrations of molecules generate compressions and rare factions, i.e., areas of high and low local pressure. The latter results in the formation of cavities, i.e., very small vapor bubbles of 500nm in size, which can collapse and cause shock waves through out the medium. The formation of cavitations depends on the frequency and intensity of waves, temperature and vapor pressure of the liquid 30. Cavitation is the principal physical phenomenon behind all the effects of ultrasound in most of the treatments. Cavitations refer to the formation, growth and collapse of vapor or gas bubbles under the influence of ultrasound. If the bubbles collapse in the vicinity of a solid surface such as a textile material, it results in the formation of a high velocity micro jet with the velocities as high as 100 m/s –150 m/s directed towards the solid surface31. These micro jets can give rise to intra yarn flow, increase in the rate of the mass transfer between the intra-yarn and inter yarn pores. On the other hand, they may be carried along with the sound waves if they do not collapse immediately. This, in turn, pushes water along with the bubbles producing a flow of water called streaming away from the sound source. The two phenomena attributed to ultrasound are the rapid movement of liquids caused by variation of sonic pressure which subjects the solvent to compression and rarefaction and micro streaming. Simultaneous formation and collapsing of tiny air bubbles result in a large increase in pressure and temperature at microscopic level. Heat induced by the ultrasonic process is adequate for dyeing process and thus eliminates the need for external heating in many cases. Advantages of ultrasonics in textile wet processing include energy saving by reduced processing temperature, time, and lower consumptions of auxiliary chemicals and further processing enhancement by overall cost control33. Ultrasonic method has been effectively utilized in various fabric preparation processes including desizing, scouring, bleaching, mercerization and auxiliary processes, like washing and laundering31, 34-36. Desizing of cotton and nylon fabrics under ultrasonic treatment results complete removal of oils used in the size recipe while the treatment without ultrasound shows residual oil stains. Effect of ultrasonic in enzymatic scouring has been tested using both acidic pectinases and alkaline pectinases and found to have increased wettability of all treated samples
  22. 22. both tests compared to the conventionally treated samples. Ultrasonic treatments help to reduce the processing and temperature required for a result comparable to the normal bleaching and subsequent dyeing processes in terms of absorbency and fastness properties. Ultrasound is used for mercerizing 100% cotton fabrics in the after treatment and speeds up the process up to 2 – 3 times. Ultrasonic also has been used for evaluating its impact on washing the fabrics and garments under the simulated stain conditions on 100% PES and P/C (65/35) blends using the detergent of 1 g/L. Attempts have been made to analyze the effect of ultrasonic in dyeing processes on almost all types of fibres using direct, reactive, acid and disperse dyes. Ultrasonic waves accelerate the rate of diffusion of the dye inside the fibre with enhanced wetting of fibres. Acoustic irradiation of the liquor results in a higher and more uniform concentration of dyestuff on the fibre surface, making it available for ready diffusion into the fibre interior( Figure -4). Figure - 4: Liquid flow through and around a textile yarn. The dots represent the fibres in yarn. The influence of ultrasonic on the dyeing system has threefold effects namely, dispersion effect, i.e., breaking up of micelles and high molecular weight aggregates into uniform dispersion in the dye bath, degassing by the removal of dissolved or entrapped gas molecules or air from fibre capillaries and interstices at the cross over points of the fabric into liquid thereby facilitating a dye-fibre contact and accelerating the rate of diffusion of the dye inside the fibre by breaking the boundary layers covering the fibre and accelerating the interaction between dye and fibre. These above mechanisms may be in effect individually or in combination of the above. Extracts obtained various natural plants sources like Cassia fistula, Impatiens balsamina, Al root bark, barks of eucalyptus, which grow abundantly in tropical and sub-tropical forests have been obtained to the cellulose fibres and their blends using ultrasonicators for both extraction as well as for the
  23. 23. application purposes 37,38. An attempt has been made to compare the dyeability of both PET and PBT in presence of ultrasound using disperse dyes. The effect of carrier and ultrasound together was significantly larger than either individually. Table- 4 shows various frequencies and power output required for various textile wet processing operations including effluent treatment. Table - 4: Frequency and power output for wet processing. Ultrasonic Frequency ( kHz) Power output (w) Application Ref. 30,47 230 Laundering of solid febrics 3 20,24 600 Desizing 4 20 ….. Natural dyes on cotton and blends 10,12 26 120 Disperse dye on PET 15 20 180, 600 Dyeing with disperse, direct, acid, basic dyes 1,2 520 ……. Effluent treatment16 Conclusion: The development of unique textile wet processing technology comes with a host of challenges. Finishes must be durable during the finishing process; stable in the presence of other chemicals; wash-fast; and evenly and consistently applied. Finishes also need to be financially feasible and environmentally friendly. The typical dyeing process involved the use of chemicals and thermal energy, which can be reduced, by using ultrasound energy. Among the wet processes, application to dyeing seems to be most advantageous, followed by finishing and preparation processes. There may be a possibility of reducing the pollution load on effluent water. Since recently, however, the plasma Technology is being introduced in textile industry as well. The processes the methods are economical and reduce the
  24. 24. environmental impacts caused by the chemical textile industry. Dyeing with super critical CO2 is still at its infancy. It has been proved time and again that it’s successful at laboratory scale. Large amount of research input is needed for system integration. Reference: 1. http://www.indiantextilejournal.com 2. http://www.textileworld.com 3. Editor’s Note: William Oxenham, Ph.D., is associate dean for academic programs at North Carolina State University’s 4. Department of Textile and Apparel Technology and Management, Raleigh, N.C. Oxenham received both a B.Sc.

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  • BhagyaBandral

    Oct. 11, 2016
  • abujafri

    Sep. 22, 2018
  • RamakrishnaJinaga

    Feb. 3, 2020

textile

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