How Ocean Waves are formed and how to surf them.

1. OCEAN WAVES
Applied to surfing

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DEEP WATER WAVE
SHALLOW WATER WAVE

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Velocity of Idealized Ocean Waves
C=
√gλ
2π
tanh(2π
d
λ
)
C: celerity
g: gravity acceleration
d: depth of water
λ: wavelength of wave
Arising from Airy Wave Theory
LIMITATIONS ● Uniform mean depth
● Inviscid
● Incompressible
● Irrotational

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Breakers
CONDITIONS:
● Deep water
● Shallow water
Height of wave
Wavelength
⩾0.07
Height of wave
Wavelength
⩾0.8

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HOW DO SURFERS DO IT?HOW DO SURFERS DO IT?

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ROGUEROGUE WAVESWAVES

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Nonlinear generation of rogue waves
1) Random background of small waves
2) Unstable wave “sucks” energy of other waves
3) Thus, grows into a rogue wave
4) Collapses shortly after

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1 cubic meter = 1000 kg
PLUNGING WAVEPLUNGING WAVE

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