3. SNAP FASTENERS
• A snap fastener (also called snap, popper, and press stud) is a
pair of interlocking discs, made out of a metal or plastic,
commonly used in place ofbuttons to fasten clothing and for
similar purposes
• A circular lip under one disc fits into a groove on the top of
the other, holding them fast until a certain amount of force is
applied
• Often used in children's clothing, as they are relatively easy
for children to use
• Different types of snaps can be attached to fabric or leather
by riveting with a punch and die set specific to the type of
rivet snaps used (striking the punch with a hammer to splay
the tail), sewing, or plying with special snap pliers
4. Snap (snap) n. 1: any clasp or fastener
that closes with a click
2: to close, fasten, go into place, etc.
with a snapping sound
3: to break, part or be released with a
sharp, cracking sound
5. HISTORY
• Snap fasteners date back as far as the 1800's when the sew-on
snaps were used for costumes and lingerie
• It wasn't until the 1940's that the 4-part gripper style snaps
were introduced to the home sewing consumers
• This style of snap fastener revolutionized the way sewing
consumers used snaps
• Up until then, the only large garment manufacturers were
able to use precision automatic equipment to attach snaps
onto clothing
6. PRESENT SCENARIO
• Today, sewing consumers have many options for snap
attachment
• From die-based pliers to hammer-based tools, home sewing
consumers can attach snaps to sewing projects with precision
• When it comes to attaching 4-part snaps, a snap attaching
device is required
• Choosing a snap attaching tool is like choosing fabric for a
garment — the decision is based on personal preference
7. PRESENT SCENARIO…
• There are two different types of snaps currently on the
market — post-style and prong-style
• A post-style snap has a shaft that requires a hole to penetrate
the fabric
• A prong-style snap has teeth that penetrate through the
fabric; For best results, look for industrial quality snaps that
are sure to stay secure
• Technically, snap fasteners are mechanical closures consisting
of a closure unit and attaching unit
9. COMPONENT PARTS
• Socket (attached with the fabric with a pronged ring)- female
functional part, with a cup shaped shell with an annular
chamber surrounding its mouth
• Pronged ring- used to attach sockets or prong attached studs to
the fabric
• Stud- male functional part, engages the socket, attached with
the fabric with a post(eyelet)
• Eyelet- flanged component which mates with the stud to attach
the stud to the fabric
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16. APPLICATION
• Prong-style snaps are best used with loosely woven or knit
fabrics
• Some of the most common uses for prong-style snaps are:
Cardigans, shirts, vests
Lightweight jacket
Polar fleece garments
Children's wear
Western wear
Home décor
Costumes
Uniforms
Sleepwear
17. APPLICATION…
• Post-style snaps are best used with densely woven or
natural/synthetic fabrics. Some of the most common uses for
post-style snaps are:
Leather jackets
Heavy outer wear jackets
Denim jackets/jeans
Purses/bags
RV and Boat covers
20. SNAP SIZES…
• Size 14 snaps have a light closing tension; Perfect for light
weight fabrics such as single-knits, batiste, cottons
• Size 15 snaps are the perfect in-between size; Good for light
and medium weight fabrics from cottons to knits
• Sizes 16 and up are designed for light or heavyweight fabrics;
Perfect for polar fleece, denim or corduroy; Tighter closing
tension to keep garments securely fastened
21. TYPES OF SNAP FASTENERS
• Open Prong Ring - An open circular ring enabling the fabric to
show through the snap when placed on cloth
• Capped Prong Ring - A solid circle of colour to give the look of
a button when placed on cloth
• Pearl - A domed, synthetic half-pearl rimmed with a ring used
mostly in Western Wear
• Decorative - A snap with an embossed designer cap
22. PEARL SNAP FASTENER OPEN PRONG RING SNAP FASTENER
CAPPED SNAP FASTENER DECORATIVE SNAP FASTENER
23. QUALITY AND TESTING
• The quality of snap fasteners is generally judged by how easily
they can be fastened or unfastened and their holding power
• The resistance to unsnapping can be determined by testing
snap fasteners mounted on a strip of material near the end
are tested on standard tensile testing machines equipped for
testing the strength of textile fabrics and having sensitivity for
accurate low force levels
• Tests are made on snap fasteners before laundering and after
a predetermined number of laundering or dry cleaning
24. ACCORDING TO WALDES AND REID
• Waldes and Reid mention the following in regard to checking
quality snap fasteners
The attaching machinery should locate the snap fasteners
accurately and at proper pressure
Component parts should be checked to close tolerances and
free from dirt and other foreign substances so that they will
feed rapidly through the hopper and permit uniform and
trouble free assembly. Hardness and workability of metal are
important factors
Hard metals will have parts formed poorly and may crack; if
too soft, the closure will be weak
The fasteners should attach firmly and withstand the
maximum pull that they can be expected to endure on the
garment
25. ASTM D4846
• Standard Test Method for Resistance to Unsnapping of Snap
Fasteners
• This test method covers the determination of the force
required to disengage snap fasteners by a pull perpendicular
to and parallel with the plane of the snap fastener
• Requires attachment of snaps to specimens using
specifications provided by the producers of the snaps
• Used to establish correlation to wear conditions and for
comparing different brands and types of snap fasteners
• The values stated in SI units are to be regarded as the
standard. The values stated in the parentheses are for
information only
• Does not address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated
with its use.
26. QUALITY MAINTENANCE
• The best foundation is two plies of fabric plus one ply of
interlining
• If the interlining is not sewn to the base fabric, the fabric
around the snap fasteners may tear after some ON/OFF
actions. Make sure that the interlining and fabric are stitched
together, especially on the back placket
• Attachment on uneven thickness may result in snap fasteners
detachment, weak ON/OFF actions, or fabric tearing. Where
there exist significant uneven thickness, snaps can not be
attached
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28. QUALITY MAINTENANCE…
• Snap fasteners may turn around if the fabric is too thin at the
attaching point. Packing is required in this case
• Make it your routine at the beginning of the day's work to
check that it won’t come off easily
• Snap fasteners should not be ironed directly. It may cause
scratch or deformation on the metallic snaps, and breakage or
distortion on the plastic snaps. Placing a cloth over the snap
fasteners before ironing them is better
29. • Problems such as deformation, breakage, stiff or lost ON/OFF
actions may occur if the pressure is too strong
• Plastic snaps, under high temperature, are less resistant to
deformation, discoloration, and scratch
30. SNAP TESTER
• It is used to determine the holding or breaking strength of
prong-ring attached snap fasteners on garments
• It consists of an Upper Snap Clamp, a Lower Fabric Clamp &
Force Gauge mounted on a Stand
• The snap component is gripped by the Upper Snap Clamp and
the garment is fixed to the lower Fabric Clamp
• By turning the Top Flywheel, the operator can apply a specific
force and the holding force or the breaking strength can be
recorded
32. WHAT IS WEAR
• In material science, wear is erosion or sideways displacement
of material from its "derivative" and original position on
a solid surface performed by the action of another surface
• Related to interactions between surfaces and more
specifically the removal and deformation of material on a
surface as a result of mechanical action of the opposite
surface
33. WHAT IS WEAR…
• In textiles and apparels, factors like stress and strain in daily
wear, abrasive actions, effects of environmental elements, or
effects of repeated laundering and dry-cleaning that influence
the behaviour and performance of garments are so variable
that their cumulative effect on an item cannot be predicted
with certainty by any of the test methods available today.
Therefore actual use of (wear testing of) the item under
evaluation by several people will yield much more useful data
than all other testing combined
• That is why even though wear testing is expensive and time
consuming, some companies “wear test” their fabrics and
garments before putting them on the market
34. PURPOSE OF WEAR TESTING
• It can help evaluate the performance of new or existing
products compared to the performance of known products
• It would be an excellent tool to gauge consumer acceptance
and product development
• It can help evaluate the suitability of existing products in
different end uses
• It can help evaluate the interaction of wear, laundering and
dry-cleaning, daily stress-strain, environmental elements, and
so on on a given fabric
• Real advantage arising from wear testing is the ability to
determine what care instructions should be furnished the
consumer, thereby generating greater consumer satisfaction
35. IMPORTANT POINTS TO BE DECIDED
BEFORE INITIATING A WEAR TESTING
PROGRAM
• The objective is to compare a new product with a n existing
product of satisfactory performance; to compare two or more
products with certain differences such as fabric blend
composition, construction details and so on; to determine the
proper care label; to judge consumer acceptance of a new
product; or to arrive at realistic performance standards for a
product
• Properties to be evaluated; of course, they will depend on the
objective
• How the product under wear test will be evaluated ? for
example, by visual ratings, by testing certain properties after a
certain properties after a certain number of wears, and so on
• Length of test
• Method of refurbishing (laundering or dry-cleaning) and who
will complete this refurbishing
36. PHYSICAL TEST METHODS
• Tensile strength
Standardised methods are now being used in most of the
laboratories where strength data is needed only as part of an
overall evaluation, the less precise but more convenient grab
test can be used
For ex- the influence of a finish on the degradation of
cellulose are needed, the strip method based on constant
thread count is more desirable
38. PHYSICAL METHODS…
• Tear strength
Two methods have been standardised, (i). tear method in
which the pull is applied in the direction of the tear
(ii) trapezoid method in which the pull is applied at right
angles to the direction of the tear
In either of the tests, the results from the two do not parallel
one another will indicate whether a fabric has low resistance
to tear or not
40. PHYSICAL METHODS…
• Abrasion or wear testing
Its in a developmental state and cannot be regarded as
satisfying an investigator
What is needed is more correlation between the results of
actual wear and the indication of physical states
In general, it requires that men wear the clothing under
controlled conditions
The Taber abrader and an abrasion device developed by
Industrial By-products and research corporation, have been
used in tests of army wool hose
41. Taber abraser or abrader- The Rotary Platform Abrasion Tester
(commonly referred to as the Taber Abraser or Taber Abrader) was
introduced in the 1930's and has been a popular instrument for
evaluating abrasion and wear resistance. Easy to operate, the Taber
Abraser (Abrader) is referenced in numerous internationally recognized
test standards and covers a wide spectrum of materials (including
plastics, coatings, laminates, leather, paper, ceramics, carpeting, safety
glazing, etc.).
43. INTRODUCTION
• In modern clothing and fashion design, a button is a
small fastener, most commonly made of plastic, but also
frequently of seashell, which secures two pieces
of fabric together
• In archaeology, a button can be a significant artefact. In the
applied arts and in craft, a button can be an example of folk
art, studio craft, or even a miniature work of art
44. INTRODUCTION…
• Buttons are most often attached to articles of clothing but can
also be used on containers such as wallets and bags
• However, buttons may be sewn onto garments and similar
items exclusively for purposes of ornamentation
• Buttons serving as fasteners work by slipping through a fabric
or thread loop, or by sliding through a buttonhole
• Nowadays, hard plastic, seashell, metals, and wood are the
most common materials used in button-making; the others
tending to be used only in premium or antique apparel, or
found in collections
45. TYPES OF BUTTONS
• Shank buttons have a hollow protrusion on the back through
which thread is sewn to attach the button.Button shanks may
be made from a separate piece of the same or a different
substance as the button itself, and added to the back of the
button, or be carved or moulded directly onto the back of the
button, in which latter case the button is referred to by
collectors as having a 'self-shank'
• Flat or sew-through buttons have holes through which thread
is sewn to attach the button. Flat buttons may be attached
by sewing machine rather than by hand, and may be used
with heavy fabrics by working a thread shank to extend the
height of the button above the fabric
49. TYPES OF BUTTONS…
• Stud buttons (also pressure buttons, press studs or snap
fasteners) are metal (usually brass) round discs pinched
through the fabric . Often found on clothing, in particular on
denim pieces such as pants and jackets, more securely
fastened to the material,, difficult to remove without
compromising the fabric's integrity
• Covered buttons are fabric-covered forms with a separate
back piece that secures the fabric over the knob.
• Mandarin buttons or Frogs are knobs made of intricately
knotted strings. Mandarin buttons are a key element
in Mandarin dress, where they are closed with loops.
• Worked or cloth buttons are created
by embroidering or crocheting tight stitches (usually
with linen thread) over a knob or ring called a form
52. TYPES OF BUTTONS…
• 2 Hole
Flat buttons that have 2 small holes in the centre to sew
through. The holes are typically lined up parallel to the edge
that it is fastening
• 4 Hole
Flat buttons with 4 holes in them. The attachment is stronger
that with 2 hole buttons and they are better for thick fabric
53. BUTTON SIZES
• The size of the button depends on its use. Shirt buttons are
generally small, and spaced close together, whereas coat
buttons are larger and spaced further apart
• Buttons are commonly measured in lignes (also
called lines and abbreviated L), with 40 lignes equal to 1 inch.
For example, some standard sizes of buttons are 16 lignes
(10.16 mm, standard button of men's shirts) and 32 lignes
(20.32 mm, typical button on suit jackets)
• The American National Button Society (NBS)[19] has its own
button sizing system which divides button sizes into 'small',
'medium' and 'large'
54. BUTTON SIZES…
• Ligne is a French word meaning line
• used prior to the French adaptation of the metric system in
the late 1700s, and is still used by French and Swiss
wristwatch makers to measure the size of a watch movement
• The standardized conversion for a ligne is 2.2558291 mm (1
mm = 0.443296 ligne), and it is abbreviated with the letter L
• Ligne : A button's ligne, refers to a button's size. Ligne is the
internationally recognized standard. Consensus at the time
was that a "ligne" measured the inside diameter of a "round
wick folded flat." One inch is equal to 40 English ligne, 11
French ligne, and 25.5 mm
• The button size varies from ligne 14(9mm) to ligne
100(63mm)
55.
56.
57. BUTTON TESTING
• Durability of buttons can be tested by an impact test[91]
• Individual buttons are placed on a surface centred under a
tube through which a pre-selected mans falls from a pre-selected
height
• After the mans impact the button, the button is removed
from the testing device and visually examined using 5x
magnified glass for breakage, cracking or chipping
• This is for acceptance testing of buttons
• They are classified as A, B1 through B3 depending upon the
impact resistance, the class A button being the most durable
58. QUALITY CHECKING
• Buttons should have large, clean sew holes that are free from
flash and will not cut the thread
• Holes must be located properly in relation to the edge of the
button
• Buttons should be of uniform thickness
• Colour or shade should be within a certain visual tolerance.
• They should withstand laundering, dry-cleaning and pressing
without any changes such as cracks, melting of
surface(scorching), change in colour
