Industrial sewing threads

1. SPME-I
Assignment
on
Sewing Threads
Submitted to : Mr. Amit Phogat Submitted by : Bittu Singh
Radhe Kumar
Shubham Singh

2. Sewing Thread
• Special yarn- engineered and designed to pass through a sewing
machine rapidly.
• Form efficient stitches without breaking or becoming distorted during
the useful life of the product.
• Basic function- to deliver aesthetics and performance in stitches and
seams.

3. Factors Affecting Functions Of A Sewing Thread
Factors Affecting
Aesthetic
• Color Fastness
• Lustre
• Hue and shade
matching
• Stitch selection
• Uniformity of stitch
formation
Factors Affecting
Performance
• Seam strength
• Elasticity
• Abrasion resistance
• Chemical resistance
• Color fastness

4. Thread Classification
• Classified in different ways in which some common
classifications are:
Substrate
Construction
Finish

5. Classification Based on Substrate
Natural
• Its uses are now minimal in industry applications.
• Most commonly used- cotton thread.
Synthetic
• Exceptionally high tenacity, high resistance to abrasion
and good resistance to chemicals.
• Not significantly affected by moisture, rot, mildew, insects
or bacteria.

6. Classification Based on Construction
Spun thread
• It is made by natural and fibre substances.
• It is stronger than cotton threads of a comparable to wide variety of sizes
and colours.
• Spun polyester is one of the most widely used threads.
Core spun thread
• It is combination of staple and filament fibres.
• Most commonly used in multiple-ply construction.
• Each ply consisting of a polyester filament core with cotton or polyester
fibres wrapped around the core.
• Generally used for the high-speed sewing of many garment types,
especially those requiring high seam strength.

7. Filament thread
• Stronger than spun threads of the same fibre and size.
• Three types of filament thread are commonly used:
Monofilament thread
• It is made from a
single continuous
fibre with a specified
thickness.
• Monofilament is
strong, uniform and
inexpensive and lacks
flexibility .
• Normally restricted to
hems, draperies, and
upholstered
furniture.
Smooth multifilament
thread
• It is usually made
from nylon and
polyester.
• It consists of two or
more continuous
filaments twisted
together.
• Used to sew shoes,
leather garments, and
industrial products.
Textured filament
thread
• It is usually made
from polyester.
• It is used primarily as
the lopper thread for
covering stitches.
• Yarn more cover and
high extensibility.

8. Classification based on thread finish
Finishes are given to a thread for two purposes:
To improve sewability
• Some finishes involve
increasing strength, abrasion
resistance and lubrication of
the thread.
To achieve a specific
functional requirement
• Some finishes include bonding,
non wick, anti-fungal, fire
retardant, water repellent and
anti-static finishes.

9. Applications of Sewing Threads
• In Apparel, Leather & Tea industries
• For personnel in Fire-fighting, Defence & Police
• Hot metal industry
• In hospital for surgery
• Rain-wear
• Automobiles – air bag, seat cover, spare wheel cover
• Bedding & mattress – covers, quilts
• Shoes
• Sports – Leather balls, Hang gliders, Fishing lines, Racket cover

10. Thread Selection
• There is no perfect thread for all applications, however
there is a perfect thread for a specific application.
• The major selection criteria include:
Sewability
Seam Performance
Seam Appearance

11. Sewability
• The ability to be sewn or stitched.
Type of threads to be used in different perspectives :
• Apparel- Core, Spun, Textured
• Automatic Multi-directional Lockstitch- CW Core or PW Core
• Buttonsew , Buttonhole- Corespun or Spun
• Overedge, Coverstitch- Spun or Textured
• Excessive Needle Heat- Cotton or CW Core
• Excessive Seam Puckering- Perma Core Ultimate – Fine Tex Sizes; CW Core or PW
Core for heavier Tex Sizes
• Needle Cutting on Knits- Small as Possible, Tex Sizes
• Heavy Non-Apparel- Multifilament, Monocord

12. Seam Performance
• Chemical Resistance- Polyester, Polypropylene, PTFE
• Abrasion Resistance- Nylon
• UV Resistance- Polyester, Polypropylene, PTFE
• Long-term Heat Resistance- Meta-Aramid
• Short-term Heat Resistance- Cotton or Para-Aramid
• Stone Wash Resistance- Polyester
• Minimize Cut-Stitch- CW Core or PW Core
• Seam Elasticity- PW Core, Spun Poly, Textured

13. Seam Appearance
• High Sheen Appearance- Rayon, Tri-lobal Polyester, Metallic
• Low Sheen Appearance- Corespun & Spun
• 100% Cotton Garment Overdye- Cotton & Lyocel
• Color Fastness- Solution dyed Polyester, Polyester, Vat dyed Cotton
• Bold Size for Contrast Stitching- Large Tex Size
• Seam Coverage- Textured

14. Thread Numbering
• Systems to indicate thread size
• Metric count – synthetic, spun or core-spun threads
• English count – cotton thread
• Decitex or Denier – filament threads
Fixed weight system Fixed length system
Unit weight is fixed and length is measured. Unit length is fixed and weight is measured.
• English count(Ne) = number of hanks of 840
yards per pound
• Metric count(Nm) = number of hanks of 1000
metres per kg
• Denier – weight in grams of 9000 metres
• Tex – weight in grams of 1000 metres
• Decitex – weight in grams of 10000 metres
Yarn becomes finer as count number increases Yarn becomes coarser/heavier as count number
increases

15. Thread Numbering
• Ticket numbering – commercial numbering system
- manufacturer’s reference number for the size of a given
thread
• Systems used – Metric, Cotton & Denier
• Same ticket number for different threads doesn’t indicates the same type of
thread – Ticket 40 Cotton & Ticket 40 Core-spun are different
• Higher ticket number – finer thread
• Lower ticket number – thicker thread
• Calculation : Divide 1000 by the Tex number, then multiply by 3

16. Thread Numbering : Example
Tex dTex X ply
(when 2-ply)
dTex X ply
(when 3-ply)
Total Decitex
(dTex)
Ticket No. Calculation for ticket No.
40 200 X 2 133 X 3 dTex X 400 75 { (1000/40) * 3 }
60 300 X 2 200 X 3 dTex X 600 50 { (1000/60) * 3 }
80 400 X 2 267 x 3 dTex X 800 38 { (1000/80) * 3 }
100 500 X 2 333 X 3 dTex X 1000 30 { (1000/100) * 3 }

17. Reference
1. All about Sewing Threads. Retrieved from :
http://www.coatsindustrial.com/en/information-hub/apparel-
expertise/sewing-threads
2. Thread Science – Choosing The Right Thread. Retrieved from :
http://www.amefird.com/technical-tools/thread-education/thread-science/
3. Thread Selection Logic. Retrieved from : http://www.amefird.com/technical-
tools/thread-education/thread-logic/
4. Thread Numbering. Retrieved from :
http://www.coatsindustrial.com/en/information-hub/apparel-
expertise/thread-numbering
5. Carr H. & Latham B. Fourth Edition. Pages 109 to 137. Technology of Clothing
Manufacture.