The concept of beauty and cosmetics is as ancient as mankind and civilization. Women are obsessed with looking beautiful. So, they use various beauty products that have herbs to look charming and young. Indian herbs and its significance are popular worldwide. An herbal cosmetic have growing demand in the world market and is an invaluable gift of nature. Herbal formulations always have attracted considerable attention because of their good activity and comparatively lesser or nil side effects with synthetic drugs. Herbs and spices have been used in maintaining and enhancing human beauty.
2. The word cosmetic was derived from the Greek word“kosm tikos” meaning having
the power, arrange, skill in decorating .he origin of cosmetics forms a continuous
narrative throughout the history of man as they developed.The man in prehistoric times
3000BC.
Herbal Cosmetics, here in after referred as Products, are formulated, using various
permissible cosmetic ingredients to form the base in which one or more herbal
ingredients are used to provide defined cosmetic benefits only, shall be called as
“Herbal Cosmetics.
Cosmeceuticals refers to the combination of cosmetics and pharmaceuticals.
Cosmeceuticals are cosmetic products with biologically active ingredients purporting to
have medical or drug-like benefits.
The "cosmeceutical" label applies only to products applied topically, such as creams,
lotions and ointments. Products which are similar in perceived benefits but ingested
orally are known as nutricosmetics
3. The skin diseases are common among all age groups and can be due to exposure
towards microbes, chemical agents, biological toxin present in the environment,
and also to some extend due to malnutrition.
The skin and hair beauty of individuals depends on the health, habits, routine
job, climatic conditions and maintenance. The skin due to excessive exposure to
heat will dehydrate during summer and causes wrinkle, freckles, blemishes,
pigmentation and sunburns. The extreme winter cause damages to the skin in the
form of cracks, cuts.
The science of Ayurveda had utilized many herbs and floras to make cosmetics
for beautification and protection from external affects 10. The natural content in
the botanicals does not cause any side effects on the human body; instead enrich
the body with nutrients and other useful minerals
4. The cosmetics, according to the Drugs and Cosmetics Act is defined as articles
intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled or sprayed on, introduced into or otherwise
applied to the human body or any part thereof for cleansing, beautifying, promoting
attractiveness or altering the appearance.
The herbal cosmetics are the preparations containing phytochemical from a variety
of botanical sources, which influences the functions of skin and provide nutrients
necessary for the healthy skin or hair.
The natural herbs and their products when used for their aromatic value in
cosmetic preparation are termed as herbal cosmetics The increased demand for the
natural product has created new avenues in cosmeceutical market.
The legal requirement and the regulatory procedures for herbal cosmetics are same
as that for other chemical ingredients used in cosmetic formulations
5. The requirements for the basic skin care
Cleansing agent: which remove the dust, dead cells and dirt that chokes the pores
on the skin. Some of the common cleansers include vegetable oils like coconut,
sesame and palm oil.
Toners: The toners help to tighten the skin and keep it from being exposed to many
of the toxins that are floating in the air or other environmental pollutants. Some of
the herbs used as toners are witch hazel, geranium, sage, lemon, essential oils.
Moisturizing: The moisturizing helps the skin to become soft and supple.
Moisturizing shows a healthy glow and are less prone to aging. Some of the herbal
moisturizers include vegetable glycerin, sorbitol, rose water, jojoba oil, Aloe vera
and iris
6. Advantages of Herbal Medicine
Herbal medicine have long history of use and better patient tolerance as well as
acceptance.
Medicinal plants have a renewable source, which is our only hope for
sustainable supplies of cheaper medicines for the world growing population.
Availability of medicinal plants is not a problem especially in developing
countries like India having rich agro-climatic, cultural and ethnic biodiversity.
The cultivation and processing of medicinal herbs and herbal products is
environmental friendly .
Prolong and apparently uneventful use of herbal medicines may offer testimony
of their safety and efficacy.
Throughout the world, herbal medicine has provided many of the most potent
medicines to the vast arsenal of drugs available to modern medical science, both
in crude form and as a pure chemical upon which modern medicines are structured
7. The Benefits of Herbs
Enhance physical and mental well-being
Strengthen the immune system
Detoxification
Aid in sleeping, digestion
Increase stamina and reduce fatigue etc.
8.
9. Name Important herbal cosmetics Uses/ Claim
Herbal hair rinse Mint, bramhi & other herbal
extracts
Promote hair growth used
in combination with
heena/amla shampoo.
Herbal hair
conditioner
Amla, sandal wood bramhi. And
other precious herbs
Prevent hair loss & act as
scalp deep cleanser.
Herbal hair Oil Arnica, Heena, Shikakai and
other herbal extracts
Specially created to
prevent hair loss &
promote luxurious hair
growth.
Hair Amla
Shampoo
Extracts of amla dates arnica and
rate herbal extracts
For normal to dry hairs.
Cleansing the scalp while
retaining & Stimulating
hair growth.
HERBAL HAIR PREPARATIONS
10. The most commonly used cosmeceuticals
Boswellic acids
It is obtained from Boswellia serrata. The main function is to inhibit the enzymes
responsible forinflammation (5 - lipoxygenase) and damage of the skin.
Tetrahydro curcuminoids
It is obtained form white (colour free) curcuminoids of turmeric (curcuma longa)
carnosic acid, cosmarinic acid, ursolic acid from rosemary extract Rosemarimus
officinalis as anti oxidants are the other compounds which are used to facilitate the
tissue damage and restoring the healthy status of skin.
Retinoids
A great amount of research has concentrated on its use as an antiaging compound as
well as its use for other cutaneous disorders. Vitamin A and its derivatives have 2
main functions they act as antioxidants, and they activate specific genes and
proteins. The ability of topical retinoin to improve the appearance of aged and
photo-damaged skin by reducing wrinkles, decreasing laxity, bleaching hyper
pigmented spots,
11. Hydroxy acids
Hydroxy acids are organic carboxylic acids classified into
Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs)
Beta hydroxy acids (BHAs)
According to their molecular structure. Many are derived from natural sources and
are often referred to as fruit acids.
The different AHAs include the following: glycolic acid, lactic acid, citric acid,
mandelic acid, malic acid, and tartaric acid. AHAs have been shown to decrease
the signs of aging.
BHAs are aromatic compounds. Salicylic acid is the reference BHA; it has
dermolytic properties and helps in various xerotic and ichthyotic disorders.
12. Antioxidants
Most importantly reactive oxygen species (ROS) and other free radicals.
These species are continuously produced during physiological cellular metabolism.
To counteract the harmful effects of ROS, the skin is equipped with an antioxidant
system to maintain equilibrium between the pro-oxidants, or damaging agents, and
the antioxidants, or protective agents; these antioxidants intervene at different levels
in the protective process. Here some of the antioxidants are listed below,
Vitamin C
Vitamin C is necessary for the hydroxylation of procollagen, proline, and lysine.
Vitamin C improves and normalizes the changes caused by photodamage.Vitamin
C has been used effectively to stimulate collagen repair, thus diminishing some of
the effects of photoaging on skin.
13. Vitamin E
Vitamin E (alpha-tocopherol) is the major lipophilic antioxidant in plasma,
membranes, and tissues.
The term vitamin E collectively refers to 8 naturally occurring molecules
(4 tocopherols and 4 tocotrienols), all of which exhibit vitamin E activity.
Its major role is generally considered to be the arrest of chain propagation
in lipid peroxidation by scavenging lipid peroxyl radicals,hence protecting the cell
membrane from destruction.
Vitamin E topically applied before UV irradiation has been shown to reduce
erythema, edema, sunburn cells.
14. Panthenol
Panthenol, the alcohol analog of vitamin B-5, is a water-soluble humectant
commonly found in various commercial skin creams, lipsticks, lotions, and hair
preparations. It is stable in the presence of oxygen and light but unstable in the
presence of acids, bases, and high temperatures. Panthenol is converted in the skin
to pantothenic acid, which is an important component on coenzyme A essential for
normal cellular metabolism.
Glucopyranosides
Resveratrol and polydatins are glucopyranosides found in many fruits and
vegetables, the highest concentrations being found in grape skins, which synthesize
these compounds in response to exposure to UV-A and UV-B and fungal
pathogens.
15. Aloevera
Aloevera is a herbal plant species belonging to liliaceae family
It is an ingredient in many cosmetics because it heals, moisturizes, and softens
skin. Simply cut one of the aloe vera leaves to extract the soothing gel.
Aloe vera contains amino acids like leucine, isoleucine, saponin glycosides that
provide cleansing action, vitamins A,C,E,B, choline, B12 and folic acid and
provide antioxidant activity
HERBAL COSMETICS
16. Carrot
It is obtained from the plant Daucus carota belonging to family Apiaceae.
It is a valuable herb since ages as due to its richness in Vitamin A along with
other essential vitamins.
Carrot seed oil is used as anti-aging, revitalizing and rejuvenating agent .
The carrot gets its characteristic and bright orange colour from β-carotene, and
lesser amounts of α-carotene and γ-carotene. α and β-carotenes are partly
metabolized into vitamin A in humans
17. Neem
Neem or Margosa . It belongs to the family Meliaceae.
The Latinized name of Neem- Azadirachta indica-is derived from the Persian.
Azad=Free, dirakht=Tree, i-Hind=of Indian Origin.
The common treatment for the dandruff is Neem as it produces antifungal,
antibacterial, pain-relieving, and anti- compounds that would treat dandruff
18. Turmeric
It is a deep yellow-to-orange powder that comes from the underground stems of
the tropical perennial herb Curcuma longa of the family Zingiberaceae.
Turmeric contains a wide range of phytochemicals including, demethoxy
curcumin,, zingiberene, curcumol, curcumenol, eugenol,curcumin,turmerones, and
turmeronols.Curcumin is the phytochemical that gives a yellow color to turmeric
and is now recognized as being responsible for most of the therapeutic effects.
Uses of turmeric include antiseptic, analgesic, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant,
antimalarial, insect- repellant, and other activities associated to turmeric
19. Henna
Henna comes from the plant Lawsonia inermis family Lythraceae, which
contain a dye molecule called Lawsone, which when processed produces.
Henna powder. Besides lawsone other constituents present are gallic acid,
glucose, mannitol, fats, resin (2%), mucilage and traces of an alkaloid.
Leaves yield henna tannic acid and an olive oil green resin, soluble in ether
and alcohol .Lawsone isolated from the leaves of L.inermis has shown
significant antifungal antibiotic effect
20. Shikakai
Acacia concinna Linn. Leguminosae is a medicinal plant that grows in tropical
rainforests of southern Asia.
The fruits of this plant are used for washing hair, for improving hair growth, as an
expectorant, emetic, and purgative.
The powder of Acacia Concinna Linn shows the presence of saponins, alkaloid,
sugar, tannin, flavanoids, anthraquinone glycosides
21. Rose oil (Rosa centifolia family:-Rosaceae)
Roses are widely referred to as the world’s favorite flower in part due to their
vast diversity in plant habitat and floral characteristics.
Rose oil and rose water have many therapeutic effects. Rose oil helps soothe the
mind and heals depression, grief, nervous stress and tension. It also helps to heal
wound and skin health
22. Amla
Amla is the name given to the fruit of a small leafy tree (Emblica Officinalis),
belonging to the family Euphorbiaceae which grows throughout India and yields an
edible fruit.
It is highly praised both for its high vitamin C content and for the precious oil,
which is extracted from its seeds and pulp and used as a treatment for hair and scalp
problems. It is used in eye syndromes, hair loss, and children ailments etc.
23. Coconut oil
It is produced by crushing copra, the dried kernel, which contains about 60-65%
of the oil.
Coconut oil contains a high amount of glycerides of lower chain fatty acids.
Coconut oil is derived from the fruit or seed of the coconut palm tree
Cocos nucifera, family Arecaceae.
The melting point of coconut oil is 24 to 25°C (75-76ºF) and thus can be used
easily in liquid or solid forms and is often used in cooking and baking.
Coconut oil is excellent as a skin moisturizer and softener .
24. Cyperus
Roots and seeds of Cyperus rotundus belonging to the family Cyperaceae ,
commonly known as Coco grass, purple nut.
It consists of terpenoids,hydrocarbons,
Roots and seeds are used to treat fever, Cyperus also used to treat several skin
diseases
25. Soap nut
Dried fruit shells of Sapindus mukorossi belonging to the family Sapindaceaea
Pulp of fruit consists of saponins(12%),these are the natural foaming agents
It also consists of Palmtic,Steric,oleic acids.
Soap nut is used to make shampoos,hair tonics,and other cosmotics
26. Bitter orange peel
Outer layer of the pericarp of the ripe fruits of Citrus aurantium belonging to the
family Rutaceae
It consists of Limonene,citral,citronellal.it also shows Bitter Glycosides.
Other constituents like Hesperidine,Pectin,Vit C
Oil extracted from the peels used in perfumary industry,bitter orange peel shows
Astringency in nature,it is an Aromatic,Carminative,Flavpuring agent.
27. Almond Oil
The almond oil is obtained from Prunus
dulcis. The almond oil basically contains
about 78% of this fat.
This oil contains very small amounts of
super-unsaturated Omega-3 essential fatty
acids .
It proves to be very nourishing, and
softens and strengthens the hair. The almond
oil also proves to be a very good cleansing
agent.
Almond oil has been used for many
centuries, even before it's spread as a
commercial agro-product
28. ADVANTAGES
They do not provoke allergic reaction & do not have negative side effects.
They are easily incorporated with skin and hair.
With small quantity they are very effective as compared to synthetic
cosmetics.
Extracts of plant decreases the bulk property of cosmetics and gives
appropriate pharmacological effects.
Easily available & found in large variety & quantity.
Easy to manufactures and chief in cost.
29. DISADVANTAGES
Herbal drugs have slower effects as compare to Allopathic dosage form.
Also it requires long term therapy.
They are difficult to hide taste and odor.
Most of the herbal drugs are not easily available.
Manufacturing process are time consuming and complicated.
No pharmacopoea defines any specific procedure or ingredients to be used
in any of herbal cosmetics.
30. EVALUTIONS OF THE FINISHED PRODUCT
The finished product should be standardized in terms of
Shelf life
Color
Toxicity studies
Biological assay
Skin irritation test
Sensitization test
Patch test
31. STORAGE OF HERBS
Herbs should be stored in cool and dry place.
Moisture can damage the herbs.
Also moisture promotes bacterial and fungal growth.
Dried herbs should be stored in air tight container.
Herbs should not be stored in direct sunlight.