1. DESINGED BY
Sunil Kumar
Research Scholar/ Food Production Faculty
Institute of Hotel and Tourism Management,
MAHARSHI DAYANAND UNIVERSITY, ROHTAK
Haryana- 124001 INDIA Ph. No. 09996000499
email: skihm86@yahoo.com , balhara86@gmail.com
linkedin:- in.linkedin.com/in/ihmsunilkumar
facebook: www.facebook.com/ihmsunilkumar
webpage: chefsunilkumar.tripod.com
Fabric and Fibres

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learning objectives
 To understand the meaning of the term textile.
 Classify different types of fibers , yarns and to learn at least
two examples of each type.
 Make wise selection of textile products for specific uses in
our day to day life.
 To learn about the fabric construction and finishes given to
each type.
 Care of textile products.

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What is a textile??
 A textile is a flexible material comprised of a
network of natural or artificial fibers often
referred to as thread or yarn. Yarn is
produced by spinning raw wool
fibers, linen, cotton, or other material on a
spinning wheel to produce long strands
known as yarn.[1] Textiles are formed by
weaving, knitting, crocheting, knotting, or
pressing

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Classification and identification of
textile fibers

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Textile fibres ( based on source)
There are two types of fibers
 Natural fibers – they are
obtained from nature & are
of 3 types: vegetable fibers,
animal fibers & mineral
fibers
 Manmade fibers –they are
obtained in various way,
there are 4 types of
manmade fibers: synthetic,
re-generated, metallic&
mineral fibers

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Length based classification
 Based on there length they are staple
or filament .
 Staple are short, all natural fibres
except silk are staple
 Filament fibres are continuous and are
measured in metres,
 All manmade fibres are filament

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Content based classification (they can
be both natural or man made fibres)
Cellulose
Fibres
Protein
fibres
Mineral
fibres

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Examples:
 Cellulose----- cotton rayon
 Protein ----- silk wool,
 Mineral------ asbestos

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Identification of fibre
By feel
By length
By lustre
By texture

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Characteristics of vegetable& animal
fibers
 Vegetable fibers are strong
with a crisp feel
 Good heat
 Non resilient and crease
easily
 Stronger when wet than dry
 Moth proof
 Affected by mildew in damp
conditions
 Can be bleached
 Not harmed by alkalis
 Affected by acids
 Animal fibers are soft to feel
 Poor heat
 Stronger wet when dry
 Absorbent
 Attacked by moths
 Not affected by mildew
easily
 Damaged by sunlight&
alkalis
 Affected by chlorine bleach

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Vegetable fibers
 Vegetable fibers are
obtained from plant
cells
 Examples are-
cotton, linen
, jute, ramie , hemp
, sisal, & coir

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Cotton fibers
 This fibre is
obtained from the
seeds of cotton
plant, which
grows 1-2 meters
tall .

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Advantages & limitations
of cotton fibers
 Advantages are-------
 -can be dyed easily
 Good conductor of heat
 Durable since fibre is strong
 Easily dry- cleaned.
 Good absorbency power
 Textured effects are easily
available.
 Highly versatile
 Processed into wide range of
fabrics
 limitations are:--------
 Cotton creases easily
 Tends to shrink when
washed
 Sheds lint
 Prone to mildew attacks
 Flammable
 Damaged by acids
 Takes longer time to dry
 When exposed to sunlight it
turns yellow .

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Linen fibers
 This fiber is
obtained from the
stem of the flax
plant .this is an
annual plant
growing maximum
about 40 inches.

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Advantages & limitations of linen
fibre
 Advantages are-----
 More durable then cotton
also.
 Withstands constant
washing .
 Soiling is easily removed
from this.
 Easy to launder .
 Stronger when in wet
condition.
 Not effected by sunlight.
 Good conductor of heat.
 Can withstand high ironing
temperatures .
 Limitations are:----------
 Creases & shrinks
easily
 Prone to mildew attacks
 It does not have good
affinity for dyes
 Takes long time to dry
 Linen is flammable
 It is expensive

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JUTE
 Obtained from stems of
jute plant
 Advantages---it is
inexpensive & can be
blended with other
fibres,it resists
water, fire, mildew and
rot.
 It dyes easily.
 Dis advantages---are
weak & non-
durable, difficult to
bleach, difficult to

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Ramie, hemp, sisal, & kapok
 Ramie is obtained from stems of plant, it is a woody fibre , it is
also known as china grass & is used for making rope, twine,
sacking & nets.
 Hemp is also obtained from stems of plant & is used for
manufacturing carpets & rags, its used to to make sacks &
canvas
 Sisal is obtained from the leaves of a plant, resembles cactus
.it is used to make twine , rope, sacking& nets
 Kapok is obtained from seeds of the cotton tree& are smooth &
light, it is used for filling of cushions.

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Coir & Pina
 It is obtained from coconut
husk
 It is used in making rope &
mats
 It is also used for stuffing
upholstered furniture's
 used for making bags too.
 Pina obtained from the
leaves of pineapple plants
 Used for mats& bags

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Animal fibers
 These are derived
from fur of various
animals
 Silk is derived from
insect larvae

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wool
 Obtained from
fleece of sheep
 Wool is graded
under 4 classes:
fine, medium, long
& carpet wools

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Advantages & limitations of
wool
 Advantages--------
 Comfortable for wear
 Dyes easily
 Does not soil easily
 Can be laundered easily
 Flameproof
 Shrink proof
 Moth resistant
 Limitations--------
 Takes long time to dry
 Weak fibers
 Stretches easily
 Good quality is
expensive
 damaged by moth
 May produce allergic
reaction to skin

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silk
 The finest quality of
raw silk is obtained
from the cocoon of
the bombyx mori, a
type f silkworm

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Silk is of 2 types cultivated& wild silk
 Important wild silks are ---
 Tussar from india & china , they have a tan
colour
 Muga silk from assam
 Others-- dupionsilk, rawsilk, spun silk

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Advantages & limitations of
silk
 Advantages—
 Soft feel & lustre
 Elegant to look at
 Strongest natural fibre
 Bad conductor of heat
 White silk can be
bleached
 Limitations----
 Silk is weakened by
sunlight
 Becomes weaker when
wet
 Weakened at high
temperatures
 Sensitive to acid
 Very costly

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NATURAL MINERAL FIBRES
 Asbestos is a natural
mineral fibre
 It is obtained from rocks
 It is acid proof , rust proof &
flame proof
 Can withstand extreme
temperatures
 It is used for making fire
fighting suits

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Man- made
1. Synthetic fibre
2. Re- generated fibers
3. Metallic fibers
4. Mineral fibers

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Synthetic fibers
1. Polyester .
2. Nylon ( polyamide)
3. Others are----- polyethylene,polyvinyl,
polypropylene,polyacrylon,,acrylics&
mod acrylics,

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Polyester fibres-------------------
is composed by mixing alcohol with
acid
 Advantages
 Fibre is very strong
 Crease resistant
 Requires no ironing
 Resists soiling as the fibers
are very smooth
 Dries rapidly
 Can be washed easily
 Resistant to acids & alkalis
 Can be blended with other
fibers
 Limitations
 attracts dust
 Has low absorbency
 Does not dye easily
 Attracts grease
 Has low melting points
 At high temperatures
produces poisonous fumes

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Polyester fibre ( used for making bed& table linen
net curtains, fillings for pillows & quilts).

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Nylon fibres
 Advantages
 Strong & durable
 Crease resistant
 Moth & mildew resistant
 Easy to launder
 Dries quickly
 Fabrics needs no
ironing
 Limitations
 Damaged by sunlight
 Melts in fire
 Hard to remove stains
from it
 Produces harmful
fumes

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Nylon fibres (used for making bed linen
, soft furnishings )

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Other synthetic fibres are :
 Acrylics trade names are dralon, courtelle,
orlon, acrilan – blankets , carpets .
 Mod acrylics trade names are teklan. Used
for soft furnishings, upholstery , blankets.
 Polypropylene such as spunstron used for
making of carpets .
 Polyethylene such as courlene used for
upholstery

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Re-generated fibres
 A) Re generated cellulosic fibres : These are made
from a substance retrieved from natural sources ,
most commonly cellulose, which is converted into
fibre form( Example is viscose rayon) . Used for
making soft furnishings & carpets .the trade
name of viscose rayon is viloft
 Other forms of rayon are: acetate & tri – acetate
 B) Re generated protein fibres : These fibres have
been obtained from protein such as milk, corn,
soyabeans.

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Regenerated fibres
 Cellulosic fibres  Protein fibre

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Viscose rayon- is obtained from wood
pulp
 Advantages
 Light weight & heavy
 Durable
 Absorbent
 Good affinity for dyes
 Can be bleached
 Limitations
 It is weak
 Creases badly
 Does not dry easily
 Prone to mildew
 Requires low ironing
temperatures

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Man made mineral fibres
 Glass fibres –
produced by heating
silica, sand, limeston
e & other minerals
 These are non
absorbent, easily
laundered ,& highly
fire proof

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Metallic fibres
 A manufactured fiber composed of metal, plastic-coated metal,
metal-coated plastic, or a core completely covered by metal.
 Coated metallic filaments do not tarnish. When suitable
adhesives and films are used, they are not affected by salt water,
chlorinated water in swimming pools or climatic conditions.
 Metallic filaments are used for decorative purposes in apparel,
draperies, laces, military uniform decorations, ribbons, table
linens, and upholstery.
 In the more common process for production, aluminum foil is
coated on one or both sides with adhesive to which the desired
coloring matter has been added. A sheet of transparent plastic
film is applied to each side of the adhesive-coated foil. The
assembly is then slit into narrow widths.

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Metallic fibres

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Process of making fibre to fabrics
fibres
To make
yarns
spun
weaved
knitted
felted
bonded
To make
Un finished
fabrics

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Conti ………
Several treatments
Given to make
Textile fabrics

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what are yarns?
 Yarn is a long continuous length of interlocked fibers, suitable for
use in the production of textiles, sewing, knitting, weaving and
rope making. Yarn can be made from any number of synthetic or
natural fibers. Very thin yarn is referred to as thread.
 Types of Yarns :
 Staple (Short fibers)
 single
 Simple (Same appearance along length)
 Filament (Continuous Filaments)
 Plied (Two or more strands, twisted)
 Complex ( irregular in size & twist)

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Count of yarn
 Tex system is most
commonly used to count
yarn
 Tex is an internationally
agreed system of yarn
numbering.
 The Tex system is based on
the fixed length system. :
(Weight per unit length)
 The Tex count represents
the weight in grams per 1
kilometer (1000 meters) of
yarn.
 (For example, a yarn
numbered 10 Tex weighs 10
grams per kilometer)
 The Tex number increases
with the size of the yarn.

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What is weaving?
 A weave can be defined as
the system of interlacing
warp & weft threads in order
to produce a fabric.
 in weaving there must be 2
types of threads.
 Vertical threads are called
warp, & horizontal threads
are called weft.

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Types of weaves
1. Plain weave
2. Satin weave
3. Figured weave
4. Twill weave
5. Cellular weave
6. Pile weave

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Plain weave

The weft goes over &
under alternate warp
threads, as done in
darning.

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Satin weave
 In a satin weave there
are fewer intersection
of weft & warp threads.
 The warp floats over
the weft thread.
 The fabric is smooth
with an attractive
sheen.

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Finished product of a satin weave

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Figured weave
 This introduces a
pattern into the fabrics.
 For figured weaves two
types of previously
mentioned weaves are
combined.
 Fabrics woven in this
weaves are
huckaback,brocatelle,
damask.

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Figured weave as damask

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Figured weave as huckaback fabric

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Twill weave
 The weft crosses the warp
at different intervals in
different rows so that
series of diagonal line is
produced.
 The threads are normally
close to each other
 Drill & gaberdine are
fabrics in twill weave.

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Fabrics made from twill weave
 gaberdine  drill

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Cellular weave
 These weave gives a
loosely woven fabric
which holds air in the
cells between the
threads .
 Example cellular
blanket

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Cellular blanket made from cellular

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Pile weave
 In a pile weave there
loops of yarn which
stand from the body
of the cloth.
 Example is carpet

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Knitting
.
•A method of constructing fabric by
interlocking a series of loops of one or
more yarns.
•Only one thread is used in knitting.
•Knitting is one of several ways to turn thread or
yarn into cloth

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Knitting machine

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What is felting?
 In this method , fibres are directly
converted into fabric without being spun
into yarns .
 Generally wool is used for felting.
 In this process a number of needles is
punched into fibres.
 They lack strength.
 Are comparatively cheaper.

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Needle Felting machine

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Bonded fibres
 Bonded fibres are
made from natural &
manmade fibres.
 The fibres are bonded
either by using
adhesive, by heating
or by laminating.

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Finishes given to fabrics
 Mechanical finishes
1. Beetling
2. Sanforizing
3. Embossing
4. Moiering
5. Calendering
6. Crinkling
7. Napping
8. Glazing
9. creping
 Chemical finishes
1. Anti- crease treatment
2. Creping
3. Fire proofing
4. mercerizing
5. Shrink resistant
6. Mothproofing
7. Oil repellant
8. Water repellant

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Apart from the above mentioned
finishes we have
 Dyeing-----
 This processes
generally enhance the
appearance of a fabric
by adding colour &
pattern
 Printing--- 3 types
 Block printing
 Screen printing
 Roller printing

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Chemical finishes
8 chemical finishes
are there

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mercerizing

A chemical finishing
process used on cotton
yarn and cloth through
chemical action of
sodium hydroxide (caustic
soda) solution. The
treatment increases the
fabrics' strength, affinity
for dyes and luster.

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Anti – crease treatment
 Used for cotton fabrics
usually this chemical
finish method is
produced by treating
fabrics with a solution
of synthetic resin, the
fabric is then dried at a
high temperature

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creping
 Caustic soda is applied
on the fabrics on some
parts , parts to which
the paste is applied do
shrinks leaving the
other parts unshrunken.
Thus a crepe effect is
produced on the fabric

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Fire proofing
 This chemical finish is
also known as the
flame retardant finish.
 in this method the fabric
is dipped in a solution
of borax & boric acid
dissolved in water.
 Even bed linen such as
duvets , pillows, etc are
made flame retardant

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Water repellant finish
 The fabric is coated with
hydrophobic substances
making it water repellant
 Hydrophobic substances
are-
silicones, gelatin, paraffin
wax.

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Oil-repellant
 Oil Repellent- A Treatment
That Allows A Fabric To
Resist Staining By Oily
Substances. Oilcloth, A
General Term For Any Oil
Coated Fabric.
 Fabrics are treated with
layers of linseed oil &
metallic salts.

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Shrink resistant finish
 Given to wool to
control shrinkage

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Moth proofing
 This is important to
wool fabrics
 Treated with chemicals
such as fluorine
compounds

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Mechanical finishes–
machine is used to produce different
effects on fabrics

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Beetling
 Originally carried out by beating the
fabric surface.
 Modern era a machine is used to give a
flattened impact, thus a desired lustrous
effect is produced

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Brushing & shearing
 Cuts out the short end of fibres which are
sticking out of the fabric
 The fabric is passed through two roller
brushes
 In this process the material gets cleaned

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calendering
 Removes wrinkles, adds sheen & gives a
smooth effect.
 This finish is produced by passing the
fabric between to highly polished rollers

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sanforizing
 To overcome the defect of shrinkage
fabrics are sanforized
 Sanforized articles are passed through
the surface of a steam heated rollers
 The process ensures less then 1%
shrinkages for fabrics after washing

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crinkling
 Also known as creping
 By this process a wavy crepe effect is
produced on the fabric
 The material is passed between two hot
rollers

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glazing
 This produces a high sheen on the fabrics
 in this process also the material is
passed through a machine consisting of
three rollers

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napping
 This produces a raised effect on fabrics &
makes it soft & warm
 In this method the fabric passed through
a revolving cylinder
 Cotton & wool fabrics are given this finish

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moireing
 Produces watery line effect on fabrics
 Machine consists of three steam rollers&
rotates at high speed to get the desired
effects on fabrics