3. BASIC BODICE BLOCK
PREPARING THE FABRC-FRONT
1. Measure length for the front bodice along the straight of
grain fromthe neck band to the waist and add 5inches. Snip
and tear the fabric this length.
2. Measure the width for the front bodice along the cross grain
fromthe center front of the dress from to the side seam at
the bust level and add 5 inches. Snip and tear the fabric this
width block and press the fabric at this time.
3. Drawthe center front grain line 1”inches fromthe edge.
Press under.
NOTE: - The selvage is to your left hand and the torn edge is
to your right hand.
4. Using on l-square ruler, draw a perfect cross grain line in the
center of the fabric panel.
This cross grain line will be referred to as the bus level line.
4. 1. Measure on the dress from the distance from the center
front to the apex. Measure and cross mark the apex this
distance the bust level of the fabric.
2. Measure from the apex to the side seam at the bust level on
the dress form. Measure and cross mark this side seam
distance on the bust level of the fabric.
3. Draw the center of the princess panel line. Divide in half the
distance from the apex to the side seam at the bust level.
Using an l-square ruler, draw a line parallel to the center
front grain line at this divided position squaring down from
the bust level.
BASIC BODICE BLOCK
DRAPING STEPS- FRONT
1. Pin the apex mark on the fabric to the apex position on the
dress form.
2. Pin the center front grain line fold to the fabric to the center
front position of the dress form .Anchor pins at center front
and neck and center front waist. An additional pin may be
needed at the bust level tape.
5. 1. Pin the center of the princess panel line of the fabric exactly
in the center of the princess panel of the dress form. Anchor
pins at the waist line and the cross grain. Align a pin the
from cross grain.
NOTE:- The purpose for centering the princess panel line is
to be sure the cross grain line is perfectly aligned check that
the length wise grain is parallel to center front and
perpendicular to the cross grain.
2. Clip the waist line fabric at the center of the princess panel.
From the bottom edge up to the waist seam tape.
3. The excess fabric between the center front waist positions
becomes the front waist dart. Drape and pin the excess
fabric in place on the princess seam as the front waist dart.
Excess fabric is folded toward the center front.
4. Smooth and drape the reminder of the waist line fabric
across the waist tape till the fabric passes the side seam pin
the side seam waist corner. Also drape the reminder of the
front side seam pass the side seam and flat arm plate. Pin in
place.
5. Drape the neckline by trimming the excess fabric around the
neck area and clipping at internals. Smooth the neckline in
place. Drape and smooth the fabric over the shoulder seam
of the dress form. Just pass the princess seam pin in place.
6. The excess fabric that falls between the neckline and the
shoulder/ armhole area becomes the amount of the
shoulder dart this amount various from one bust size to
another.
6. 1. Fold and pin this excess fabric on the shoulder princess
seam of the dress from. The excess fabric is folded towards
the center front neck.
2. Mark all key areas of the dress form to the fabric.
1. Neck line
Cross mark at center front neck and at neckline corner
lightly mark reminder of neck line.
2. Shoulder seam and shoulder dart.
a.)Top at shoulder seam ridge.
b.) Middle at screw level.
c.) Cross mark bottom at side seam.
3. Waist line and waist dart.
4. Side seam lightly mark cross mark center front waist at
Side Seam and both side of the dart.
BASIC BODICE BLOCK
PREPARING THE FABRIC- BACK
1. Measure length for the back bodice along the straight of
grain from the neck band to the waist and add 5 inches.
2. Measure the width of for the back bodice along the cross
grain from the center back seam at the under arm and add 5
inches.
3. Draw the center back grain line 1“from the torn edge and
press under.
7. 1. Cross mark the center back neck line position 3 inches below
the top of the fabric on the center back grain line.
2. Measure down 41/4” from the back neck line mark. Using an
l-square ruler draw a perfect cross grain line at this position
(This is considered the shoulder blade level).
NOTE:-This 41/4” measurement represents one fourth of
the distance from center back neck to waist for a size 8 or 10
women’s figure.
Also, measure the distance from center back to the arm
plate at the shoulder level of the dress from. Measure and
cross mark this back shoulder distance on the fabric at the
shoulder blade level line.
BASIC BODICE BLOCK
DRAPING STEPS – BACK
1. Pin the center front grain line fold of the fabric to the center
back position on the dress from.
Align the neck line position mark of the fabric to the center
back neck position on the dress from.
2. Pin and drape the back cross grain line of the fabric to the
shoulder blade level on the dress from. Pin the arm plate
cross mark ¼” away from plate (At armhole ridge).
Distribute excess ease along shoulder blade level.
NOTE:-This line is correctly draped in to position when the drape
hangs freckly and evenly without any drag or pulled
8. down look. Also, the lower edge of the drape shoulder hangs
parallel to the floor.
1. Drape in the back waist line dart (7”long and 11/4”wide)
Smooth the fabric towards the side seam till the fabric
passes the princess seam.
Cross mark at the princess/ Waist seam measure and cross
mark 7” up from the waist line on the back princess seam.
At the waist line fold the princess seam cross mark to the
11/4” mark. Taper the dart to nothing at the 7”mark.
2. Clip the waist line fabric at the center of the princess panel
up to the button of the waist seam tape. Smooth the fabric
across the waist tape till the fabric passes the side seam. Pin
at the side seam/ waist corner.
3. Drape the back side seam by smoothing the fabric pat the
side seam and flat over the dress from pin in place.
4. Drape and smooth the back neck line by carefully trimming
the excess fabric around the neck area and clipping at
intervals. Continue to smooth the fabric over the shoulder of
the dress form and pin in place.
5. Drape in the back shoulder dart (3”long and ½”wide) straight
at the neck line. Smooth the fabric over the shoulder seam
of the dress form to the princess seam and cross mark on
the princess seam at the shoulder, measure towards the
armhole ½” and cross mark. Also on the princess seam
measure down 3” from the shoulder seam. Fold the fabric
from the shoulder seam cross mark to the ½” cross mark.
Taper the dart to nothing at the 3” cross mark.
6. Mark all key area of the dress from to the fabric.
9. · Neck line
Cross mark at center back neck and at neck line/
shoulder corner. Lightly mark remainder of neck line.
· Shoulder seam and shoulder dart.
· Lightly mark shoulder seam and cross mark shoulder
dart and shoulder ridge corner.
· Arm plate.
a) Top at shoulder seam ridge.
b) Middle at screw level.
c) Bottom at the side seam cross mark.
· Side seam – lightly mark
· Waist line and waist dart seam waist and both side of
the dart.
Check the drape by spinning the front and back side seam
and front and back shoulder seam together before
proceeding to the next steps.
1. Remove the fabric from the dress from and lay flat on table.
If you are planning to true up the fabric on the paper
complete the following steps.
a) Draw in the straight of grain and cross grain on the
pattern paper. Place the fabric on top of the paper.
Notching the straight of grain and cross grain.
b) With a trace wheel, transfer all the fabric markings on the
paper.
2. Draw a short go degree angle at-
Center front neck (1/4”)
Center front waist (1/2”)
Center back neck (1”)
10. Center back waist (1”)
1. Draw in the front darts using a straight ruler.
Front waist darts (1” from the open through the waist dart
cross mark)
Front shoulder dart (1” from the open through the shoulder
dart cross mark)
Back waist dart (vanishing point through waist dart cross
mark)
Back shoulder dart (vanishing point to back waist dart
through shoulder dart connect other shoulder dart cross
mark.
PRINCESS PANEL
1. Measure the length for the front and back panel (along the
straight of grain) from the neck band to the waist and add 5”
snip and tear the fabric this length.
2. Fold the fabric from selvage to selvage and snip and tear the
fabric piece in half length wise.
11. Use one piece for the front panels and the other piece for
the back panel.
1. Measure the width for the center front panel (along the
cross grain) from the center front of the dress from to the
princess seam at the apex, and add 4”.
Using one of the fabric pieces prepared in step 2, snip and
tear the fabric this width.
Use the remaining front piece for the side front panel.
2. Measure the width for the center back panel from the
center back of the dress from to the back princess seam at
the shoulder blade level.
And add 4”. Using the second fabric piece prepared in step 2
snip and tear the fabric this width.
Use the remaining back fabric piece for the side back panel.
3. Draw the grain line for the center front panel 1” from the
torn edge press under.
4. Draw the cross grain line for the front panel in the center of
the both panel.
5. Measure the dress form from center front to the apex,
measure and cross mark the apex this distance of the cross
grain line.
6. Draw the grain line for the center back panel 1” from the
torn edge. Press under.
Draw the grain line for the side back panel in the center of
the fabric piece.
7. Draw the cross grain line for both back panels 8” from the
top of the fabric edge.
12. THE PRINCESS BODICEBLOCK
DRAPING STEPS
CENTER FRONT PANEL
1. Pin the apex cross marks on the fabric to the apex position
on the dress from.
2. Pin the center front grain line fold of the fabric to the center
position of the dress from.
Anchor pins at center front neck and center front waist. An
additional pin may be needed at the bust level tape.
3. Drape the neck line trimming the excess fabric around the
neck area and clipping at intervals. Smooth the neck line in
place.
4. Drape and smooth the waist line place from center front to
just past the princess seam. Pin in place.
5. Mark all key area of the dress from on the center front
panel.
· Neck line
· Waist line
· Princess seam and style line
· Notches
· Shoulder seam
6. True up center front panel. Add seam allowance and trim all
excess fabric place panel back on the dress from.
13. SIDE FRONT PRINCESS PANEL
1. Pin the grain line of the side front panel to the center of the
front princess panel on the dress from matching the cross
grain of the side seam bust panel to the cross grain of the
center front panel.
Anchors pins on the cross grain at the bust level. Place
another anchor pin on the straight of grain at the waist line.
1. Clip the waist line at the center of the front princess panel
up to the bottom of the waist line seam tape.
Drape and smooth the waist line on place.
2. From the grain line to the side front panel smooth the fabric
past the side seam of the dress from do not allow the grain
line to slip out of position. Pin the side seam in place.
3. Drape the shoulder by carefully smoothing the excess fabric
above the bust level up and over the dress from.
NOTE: - The grain line will look as if it is angled toward the
neck line.
4. Smooth the fabric over the princess seam add pin the
princess seam in place.
NOTE: - The excess fabric will drape over the bust level area
creating ease at the princess seam between the notches.
5. Mark all key areas of the dress from on the side front panel.
Princess seam and style line notches (match the center front
panel notches)
14. Arm plate
Shoulder seam at ridge
Middle of plate at screw level
Bottom of plate at side seam
Shoulder seam
Side seam
Waist line
1. Remove the side front panel from the dress from and true
up all the lines. Add seam allowance.
Trim excess fabric, leaving all seams allowance. Pin to front
panel and return to check seam notches and balance.
THE PRINCESS BODICEBLOCK
DRAPING STEPS
CENTER BACK PRINCESS PANNEL
1. Pin the center back grain line fold of the fabric to the center
back position of the dress from.
Align and line the cross grain to the shoulder blade level of
the dress from.
1. Drape and smooth the back waist line from center back to
just pass the princess seam. Pin the waist line in place.
2. Drape and smooth the back neck line by carefully trimming
the excess fabric around the neck area and clipping at
intervals.
Continue to smooth the fabric over the shoulder of the dress
from and pin in place.
15. 1. Mark all key areas of the dress from on the center back
panel
Neck line
Waist line
Shoulder seam
Back princess seam and style line notches (a double notch is
used in the back)
2. Remove the center back panel drape from and true up all
lines. Add seam allowance trim all excess fabric, leaving all
seam allowance. Place this center back drape on the dress
from.
THE PRINCESS BODICE BLOCK
DRAPING STEPS
SIDE BACK PRINCESS PANEL
1. Pin the grain line of the side back panel to the center of the
back princess panel on the dress from matching all cross
grain at the shoulder blade.
2. Clip the waist line at the side back panel up to the bottom of
the waist seam tape. Smooth and pin the waist line in place.
3. From the grain of the side back panel. Smooth the fabric
past the side seam of the dress from. Do not allow the grain
line to slip out of position. Pin the side seam in place.
4. Drape the shoulder by smoothing the excess fabric from
above the shoulder level up and over the shoulder seam of
the dress from.
17. 1. Measure the length for the front and back panel (along the
straight grain) from the neck band to the hip area and add
5”. Snip the tear the fabric this length.
2. Fold the fabric from salvage to salvage snip and tear the
fabric piece in half length wise.
Use one piece for the front panel and the other piece for the
back panel.
3. Measure the width for the center panel (along the cross
grain) from front of the dress from to the princess seam at
the open and add 5”.
Snip and tear the fabric this width use the remaining fabric
piece for the side front panel.
4. Draw the grain line for the center front panel 1” from the
torn edge. Press under.
5. Draw the grain line for the side front panel in the center of
the fabric piece.
6. Draw the cross grain lines for the front and side front panel
12” from the top edge of the fabric.
7. Measure the dress from center front to the open. Measure
and cross mark the apex. This distance on the center front
panel on the cross grain line.
8. Draw the grain line for the center back panel 1” from the
torn edge. Press under.
Draw the grain line for the side back panel, in the center of
the fabric piece.
9. Draw the cross grain line for both back panels 8". From the
top of the fabric edge.
18. THE TORSOLENGTHPRINCESS BODICE BLOCK
DRAPING STEPS
CENTERFRONT TORSO PRINCESS PANEL
1. Pin the opencross mark onthe fabricto the openposition
onthe dress from.
2. Pin the center front grain line foldof the fabric on the center
positionofthe dress from. Anchor pins at center front neck
and center front hip. An additional pin may be needed at the
bust level tape.
3. Drape the neck line by trimmingthe excess fabric around
the neck area andclipping a intervals. Smooth the neck line
in place.
Drape andsmooththe shoulder over the shoulder seamof
the dress fromjust past the princess seam. Pin inplace.
4. Clipthe waist line at the princess seam. Drape and smooth
the fabricofthe center front panel just past the princess
seam.
19. NOTE: - The fabric at the waist line will be smooth but not
snug tight.
1. Mark all key areas of the dress from on the center front
panel.
Neck line
Princess seam and style line notches (2” above and below
open)
Shoulder seam
2. True up the center front panel. Add seam allowance trim all
excess fabric leaving. Place back on the dress from.
THE TORSO LENGTH PINCESS BODICE BLOCK
DRAPING STEPS
SIDE FRONT TORSO PRINCESS PANEL
1. Pin the grain line of the side front panel to the center of the
front princess panel on the dress from notching the cross
grain of the side bust panel to the cross grain at the bust
level. Place another anchor pin on the straight of grain at the
waist line.
2. Clip the waist line at the side seam of the side front panel.
From the grain line of the side front panel. Smooth the fabric
past the side seam.
Continue to smooth the fabric flat over the arm plate. Do
not allow the grain line to slip out of position. Pin the side
seam in place.
20. 1. Drape the shoulder by carefully smoothing the excess fabric
above the bust level up and over the shoulder of the dress
from.
NOTE: - The grain line will look as if it is angled toward the
neck line above the bust level.
2. Clip the waist line at the princess seamsmooth the fabric
over the princess seam and pin in place.
NOTE: - The excess fabric will drape over the bust level
area creating ease at the princess seam between the notches.
3. Mark all key area of the dress from on the side front panel.
a.)Princess seamand style line notches (match to center
front panel notches).
b.)Armplate
Shoulder seam at ridge.
Middle of plate at screw level
Bottomof plot at side seam
c.)Shoulder seam
d.)Side seam
4. Remove the side front panel from the dress from and true
up all lines. Add seamallowance.
Trim all excess fabric, leaving all seam allowance pin to front
panel front and place on the dress fromto check seams,
notches and balance.
21. THE TORSO LENGTH PRINCESS BODICE BLOCK
DRAPING STEPS
SIDE FRONT TORSO PRINCESS PANEL
1. Pin the grain line of the side back panel to the center of back
princess panel on the dress form matching all cross grain at
the shoulder blade level.
2. Clip the waist line at the side seam. Drape and smooth fabric
past the side seam and flat over the dress form. Pin in place.
3. Drape the shoulder by smoothing the excess fabric from
above the shoulder blade level up and over the shoulder
seam of the dress form.
NOTE: - The grain line will look as if it is angled toward the
neckline (above the cross grain)
4. Clip the waist line at the princess seam of the side back
panel. From the grain line of the side back panel. Smooth
the fabric past the princess seam of the dress form. Do not
allow the grain line to slip out of position. Pin the princess
seam in place.
5. Mark all key areas of the dress form on the side back
Panel.
- Princess seam and style line notches
(Match to center back panel double notches)
- Arm plate
- Shoulder seam at ridge
- Middle of plate at screw level
22. - Shoulder seam
- Side seam.
1. Remove the drape from the dress form and true up all lines.
Add seam allowance. Trim all excess fabric leaving all seam
allowance.
Pin the entire garment together and place the drape on the
dress form. Check for accuracy, fit and hang.
THE TORSO LENGTH PRINCESS BODICE BLOCK
DRAPINGBSTEPS
CENTER BACK TORSO PRINCESS PANEL
1. Pin the center back grain line fold of the fabric to the
center back position of the dress from.
Align and pin the cross grain to the shoulder blade level of
the dress from.
2. Drape and smooth the back neck line by carefully
trimming the excess fabric around the neck area and
clipping at intervals.
Continue to drape and smooth the shoulder over the
shoulder of the dress from and pin in place.
3. Clip the waist line at the princess seam. Drape and
smooth the fabric pat the princess seam and pin in
place.
Note: - The waist areas will drape smoothly. But will not be
snug tight.
23. 1. Mark all key area of the dress form on the center back
panel.
- Neck line
- Shoulder seam
- Back princess seam and style line notches.
- (A double notch is used in back)
2. Remove the center back panel drape from the dress
form and true up all lines. Add seam allowance. Trim,
leaving all seam allowance. Place.
THE BASIC STRAIGHT SKIRT BLOCK
PREPARING THE
FRONT
1. Preparing the dress form measure down 7” from the waist
line on the center front of the dress form .This is the hip
level. Place will tape (or measuring tape) parallel to the
dress form at this hip level and remove the tape.
2. Measure the length (along the cross grain) for the front and
back skirt from 2” above the waist to the bottom of the
dress form. Add 4” ship and tear the fabric this length.
24. 1. Measure the width (along the cross grain) for the front and
back skirt at the hip level fromto the side seam. Add 3” ship
and tear the fabric this width.
2. Draw the center front center back grain lines on the fabric
1” from the turn edge. Press under.
3. Mark the center front waist position measure down 2” from
the top of the fabric at the center front fold pencil in a waist
line mark at the position.
4. Using on (l-square ruler, draw perfect cross grain at the hip
level for the front and back skirt. On the skirt front, measure
down 7” fromthe waist line mark on the skirt back, measure
down 9” on the grain line) from the top of the fabric .
5. Determined the front side seam. Measure fromcenter front
to the side seam(at the hip level) and add ½” ease. Transfer
this measurement to the fabric. Using the mark draw a side
seams perfectly parallel to the center front grain line.
6. Determined the back side seam. Measure fromcenter back
to the side seams (at the hip level) and add ½” for ease.
Transfer this measurement to the fabric. Using this mark,
draw a side seams perfectly parallel to the center back grain
line.
25. 1. Draw a second line ¾” from the side seam on both the front
and back skirt .This line will be used to help drape in the
waist line.
THE BASIC STRAIGTH SKIRTBLOCK
DRAPING STEP FRONT
1. Pin the center front grain line fold of the fabric on the center
front position of the dress from matching the cross grain of
the fabric to the hip level on the dress from.
2. Smooth and pin the cross grain to the fabric (evenly
distributing the ease) across the dress from to the side
seam.
Be sure the fabric cross grain is parallel to the floor and the
side seam match.
Pin the cross grain and side seam (below the hip level) to the
dress from.
3. Carefully drape and pin the front ¾” line to the side seam/
waist of the dress from.
NOTE: - When this side seam/ waist corner is draped
correctly, a slight gap will occur automatically at the side
seam above the hip level.
4. Drape in two darts at the front waist line. Smooth the fabric
from the center front to the princess seam.
26. Cross mark the waist line at the princess seams. Drape in the
first dart (one half of the excess fabric) on the princess seam
line.
Measure over on the waist line 11/4” from the first dart.
Place a second cross mark at this position clip the waist line
and drape in the second dart (the remaining half of the
excess fabric) at this second cross mark.
THE BASIC SRAIGHT SKIRT BLOCK
DRAPING STEP BACK
1. Match the back side seam at the hip level to the front
side seam at the hip level.
NOTE: - The side seam should match and be perfectly
parallel to each other.
Smooth the cross grain of the fabric (evenly distributing the
ease) across the dress form. Pin the center back grain line
fold of the fabric to the center back seams of the dress form.
1. Carefully drape and pin the back ¾’ line of the fabric to the
side seam/waist corner of the dress form.
NOTE: - When this side seam (waist corner is draped
correctly a slight gap will occur automatically on the side
seam above the hip level.
2. Drape in two dart at the back waist line. Smooth the fabric
form the center back to the princess seam.
27. Cross mark the waist line at the princess seams. Drape in the
first dart (one half of the excess fabric) on the princess seam
line.
Measure over on the waist line 114”from the first dark.
Place a second cross mark at this position. Clip the waist line
and drape in the second dart (the remaining half of the
excess fabric) at this second cross mark.
1. Mark all key areas-
Waist line – front and back
Dart _ front and back
BASIC STRAIGHT SKIRT BLOCK
TRUENING STEPS
1. Remove the fabric from the dress form laid this drape flat on
a table. If you are planning to true up the fabric on to paper.
Complete the following steps –
A) Draw in a straight grain line and the cross grain at the hip
level on to pieces of paper.
B) Re measure the hip and ½” ease. Transfer this
measurement to the paper. Draw a side seam line at this
position parallel to the grain line. (Do this for both the
front and back skirt)
C) Place the fabric drape on top of the paper matching the
straight grain and the cross grain and hip level. The side
seam line should match automatically.
D)With a trace wheel, transfer the waist line, darts, and side
seam marking on to the paper.
28. 1. Draw a short 90” angle at –
1) Center front waist (1/2”)
2) Center back waist (1”)
2. Draw the front and back waist dart –
1) Locate the center of each dart.
2) Using a straight ruler, draw a line for the center of each
dart parallel to the grain line and the length of the
desired dart at vanishing point (3 ½” for the from dart
and 5 ½” for the back dart)
3) Using a straight ruler. Complete drawing the reminder of
the dart. Draw the outer edges of the dart from the
vanishing point to the waist line cross mark.
3. Draw the side seam. Using a hip curve ruler place the
straight part of this ruler to the side seam/waist corner and
the side seam (as illustrated).
4. Draw the waist line. Fold and pin in the waist dart. With the
darts folded in place. Use the hip curve ruler and draw in the
waist line.
NOTE: - At this time, match and walk front and back bodies
waist to the skirt waist. When a bodice
Is being attached to the skirt. Waist line should be the same
distance when all darts are folded closed.
5. Check side seam-
1. Pin the front of back side seam together. Matching
cross grain at the hip level.
Measure the side seam form the hip level to the waist line. These
measurements should be the same if they
29. 1. are not. Adjust the back waist line. Side seam corner to
match the front measurement.
NOTE: - If these measurements are more than 3/8” of
recheck the drape for a more accurately draped side
seam/waist corner.
1. Draw the hemline-
1. With the side seam still pinned together, measurement
from the center back waist down to the desired skirt
length.
2. At this measurement, square a line across the skirt to the
center front of the skirt. This line should be perfectly to
the hip line.
3.
CHECK LIST
1. A carefully checking and fitting of the finished drape
serves as several purposes. It may show in accuracy in
fit and any changes or correction can be made at this
time.
1. Front and back grain line should be straight.
2. Front and back cross grain should be perfectly level
to the floor.
3. Hip level ease evenly distributed.
4. All tarred line has the correct amount if seam allow.
5. The overall look of the drapes is near and cleans.
6. Dare the pinned in place to the vanishing point.
30. 1. Drape side seam in alignment of the dress form side
seam.
2. The drape is correctly balanced. The front of the
design is in the front and the back of the design is in
the back.
3. It hangs freckly on all seam line.
THE DARTLESS KIMONOSLEEVE
THE FABRIC PREPARING
1. Measure the lengths for the front and back drape (along the
straight of grain) from the neck band to the hip level and
add 5” snip and tear the fabric this length.
2. Measure the width for front and back drape (along the cross
grain) from the center of the dress from to the wrist level of
the arm. Snip and tear the fabric this width.
3. Draw the grain lines for the front and back kimono 1” from
the turn edge press under.
31. 1. Draw two cross grain for the front and back kimono.
1. Draw the first cross grain line 11” from the top edge of
the fabric this indicates the bust level line.
2. Draw the second cross grain line 14” from the first cross
grain line; this indicates the hip level line.
2. Draw in the back side seam at the hip level measure from
the center back to the side seam and add ½” for ease.
Transfer this measurement to the fabric. Using this mark
draw a side seams perfectly parallel to the center back grain
line.
3. Draw in the front side seam. At the hip level measurements
from the center front to the side seams and add ½” for ease.
Transfer this measurement to the fabric. Using this mark
draw a side seam. Perfectly parallel to the center front grain
lines.
THE DRAPING KIMONO SLEEVE
DRAPING STEPS
Pin the center front grain line fold of the fabric, on the center
front position of the dress from. Be sure the cross grain is at the
bust level. Anchor pins at center front neck
32. 1. and center front hip. An additional pin may be needed at the
bust level.
2. Smooth and pin the cross grain of the fabric across the dress
from to the side seam. Pin the side seam to side seams of
the dress from.
Be sure the fabric cross grain are parallel to the floor and
side seams match.
3. Pin the shoulder / neck area in to position by trimming the
excess fabric, around the neck area and smoothing the
fabric flat over the shoulder / neck area.
4. Mark the key area of the dress from corner and the shoulder
ridge.
Ø Side seam 11/2” below the arm plate.
Ø Side seam at the waist line.
5. Remove the fabric drape from the dress from and true up
the neck line and side seam and draft the kimono sleeve.
Ø Raise the shoulder line ½” following this slant
To from the sleeve seam.
Ø Exited this line 23” from the shoulder ridge corner.
Ø With an l-square ruler, draw a line 8” long.
Perpendicular from the shoulder seam.
34. CHECK THE HANG OF THEIS DRAPE
Ø HE FRONT AND BACK DRAPES ARE PLUMB (NO TWIST)
Ø Side seam align with the dress from side seam.
Ø Shoulder seam lay on the shoulder seam of the dress
from.
NOTE: - If the drape hangs incorrectly, this usually
indicates that the shoulder and back neck area need to
be adjusted. This may result in a slightly larger (1/2”)
back sleeve width
PEGGED SKIRT
The peg skirt makes hard line news usually for evening or format
ware this skirt is flattering and quite feminism and usually
departs out of soft pliable fabrics.
35. The peg skit is easily recognized by its following fullness over the
hip area which is formed by dropping deep folds drawn into the
waist line. At the same time the lower edge is drown back into
the body allowing movement with case and freedom. A
beautifully draped peg skirt depends largely on the skill of the
drapes.
THE PEG SKIRT
PREPARING THE FABRIC
1. Measure the length (along the straight of grain) of the
desired skirt of adds 6” ship of tear the fabric this length.
2. Measure the width along the cross grain 32” to determine
the width of the fabric ship of tear the fabric at this width.
NOTE: - When the drape is completed there will be a seam
at the center front of a seam at center back, however, there
will be no side seam.
3. Draw the center back grain line parallel to the grain line on
the left side of the fabric. Press under.
4. Mark the center back waist position. From the top edge of
the4 fabric measure down 3” (on the center back grain line)
draw a waist line mark.
36. 1. On the center back grain line, measure down 7” from the
waist line mark for the hip level. Draw a perfect cross grain.
THE PEGED SKIRT
DRAPING STEPS
1. Pin the center back grain line fold of the fabric on the center
back position of the dress form.
2. Life of hold the top edge of the fabric, Pin the center front in
this bias position to the dress form.
NOTE: - This lifting process will maintain greater fullness at
the waist level, of minimum fullness at the hem level.
However, enough fullness at the hem level must be allowed
for walking ease.
If the skirt front is draped on a true bias, maximum waist
line fullness is achieved. However if the center front is
draped on a partial bias line, this would create less fullness
at the waist line.
Both methods are acceptable draping procedures.
3. To gather the fullness at the waist line, with a piece of will
tape. Tie the fabric at the waist line. Evenly distribute the
gathers.
4. Pleat the desired number of pleats at the waist line. At the
same time, push down slightly on each pleat to help billow
the fabric at the hip level. Also, slightly pull up the center
front bias waist position.
37. NOTE: - pushing down and maintaining gathers (instead of
pleats) will give a style variation if this very dramatic skirt.
The number of pleats 9r darts of the amount of fullness
desired is up to the individual designer.
1. Pin the pleats in place of remove the will tape. Mark key
areas.
- Waist line
- Pleats
- Hemline
2. Remove the fabric from the dress form of true up the drape.
Add seam allowances and trim excess fabrics.
Pin in the pleats and place drape back on the
Dress from. Check for accuracy. Making all necessary corrections.
THE BASIC NECKLINE COWL
Cowls are draped on the bias, usually in lighter, finer fabrics to
enhance a soft, harmonious look. A basic neckline cowl employee
deep folds to create a variety of looks and woods .The deeper
thee cowl can be used subtly or add imaginative to an otherwise
low key garment. The drape should be done in the same quality
of fabric as the finished garment. The basic neckline cowls /
preparing the fabrics.
38. THE BASIC COWL NECKLIE /PREPARING THE FRBRIC
PREPARING THE DRESS FORM
Determine the desired neckline depth place a pin or the dress
form at this neckline position. Also place a pin on each shoulder
seam the width of the desired neckline.
1. Measure and cut a perfect square of soft fabric wide enough
for an entire front or entire back bodice (about 34” square)
NOTE – The drape should be done in the same quality of fabric
as the finished garment.
2. Draw a true bias line diagonally across the piece of fabric.
3. To determine the neckline and facing are turn a corner of
the fabric deep enough to reach from one shoulder pin to
the other shoulder pin, add 3” for ease.
THE BASIC COWL NECKLINE / DRAPING STEPS
1. Place the folded edge of the fabric on the dress form to
drape the center front neckline position. Match the center
39. front bias line of the fabric to the center front neckline pin
on the dress form.
2. Drape and pin the shoulder in to position by allowing the
neckline cowl to fall in genteelly. Be sure to keep the center
front bias line on the center front the dress form.
3. Lift and pleat each shoulder to form additional desired
cowl drapes.
NOTE: - Refer to the garment design to determine the no.
of cowl drapes desired.
1. Clip the waist line fabric. Pin and drape the waist line, side
seam and armhole area.
2. Mark key areas of the dress form on one side of the drape
only.
- Shoulder seam
- Side seam
- Waist line
- Arm hole are and desired armhole shape.
3. True up the front cowl drape. Add seam allowance and
trim excess fabric. At the neckline fold, determine the
width of the desired neckline facing. Prim excess form
check for accuracy make all necessary correction.
4. Refer to one of the basic back drapes to drape a back
bodice desired.
NOTE: – A low back neckline cannot be used because the
drape will fall off the shoulder. Also the neckline shoulder
area should match.
40. UNDER ARM / SIDE SEAM COWL
The under arm/side seam cowl drape produces softly curved bias
fold at the underarm seam. The fabric is placed on the true bias
and is draped without a side seam. The under arm/side seam
cowl is effective on a soft drape without working over done. It
after design inspiration for soft and fluid fabric, crate a mood of
easy elegance.
UNDER ARM SIDE SEAM COWL / PREPARING THE
FABRIC
PREPARING THE DRESS FORM
Determine the depth of the under arm cowl desired place a pin
on the dress form at this under arm/side seam position. Also, the
desired shoulder/ arm hole position.
1. Measure and cut a 36” square of soft fabric this will be
enough fabric to drape a front of back waist seam design
forming an under arm cowl.
NOTE: - The drape should be done in the same quality of
fabric. As the finished garments.
2. Draw a true bias line diagonally across the 36” piece of
fabric.
3. Measure up 16” from the bottom edge on the bias line. At
this position draw a perfect cross bias line. Turn the fabric
on this line.
41. 1. Measure up 16” from the bottom edge on the bias line. At
this position draw a perfect cross bias line. Turn the fabric
on this line.
UNDER ARM SIDE SEAM COWL /DRAPING STEPS
1. Pin the fabric on the dress form at the under arm side seam
pin. Position & match the bias line at the fold line to the side
seam pin & the dress form.
2. Drape the shoulder form the cowl by holding the fabric at
the fold line fabric edge and swing the fabric up on to the
shoulder’s place anchor pin’s at this shoulders position.
NOTE: - It will be necessary to from pleats and the shoulder
to help from clean even folds, the deeper the side seam
cowl.
3. Clip the fabric on the side seam from the bottom & the bias
line, up to the waist line. Pin the bias line & the fabric to the
side seam/waist position & the dress form.
4. Smooth and drape the fabric past the center frontline will
the grain of the fabric is parallel to the center from of the
dress from.
42. 1. Arm cowl fold line determines the width & shaped of the
desired facing amount. Smooth and drape the fabric past
the center back line will the cross grain of the fabric is
parallel to the center back the dress form.
2. Clip of pin in place the waist line for the front of back.
NOTE: - Another pleat will probably from at the shoulder.
3. Clip the front of back neck lines of drape in the shoulder.
NOTE – Another pleat will probably from at the shoulder.
4. Mark key areas
- Front of back
- Center front
- Center back
- Front of back waist line
- Shoulder of pleats
5. True up all lines. For truing up the shoulder, neckline, side
seam & waist line area. Add seam allowance and bin excess
fabric at the under
