Fabric studies final

Fabric Studies

01/18/13 Fabric Styling - Neha Singh

Fiber structure
Physical attributes
• Fiber length
• Staple fibers
• Filament fibers- silk

• Fiber shape- fiber cross-sectional shape influences the way light is
reflected from the surface. A flat surface fiber has more luster than a
round one. A round fiber reflects light is one general direction, causing a
shiny surface.
• A multi lobal shaped fiber tends to scatter the light, causing the diffuse
glow with sparkles.
• Irregular cross-section scatters light in many directions, resulting a dullish
appearance.

.

• Fiber surface- The surface of fiber vary.
• Smooth, rough, slightly grooved, wrinkled etc.
• The fiber surface affects such as properties as hand, luster and wicking

• Fiber Longitudinal Configuration

• Lengthwise, fibers have varying configurations. They may be straight,
twisted, coiled, or crimped. Exp cotton and nylon.

• Various properties like resiliency, elasticity and abrasion resistance are
affected by fiber longitudinal configuration.


• Greater crimp increase resiliency, bulk, warmth, elongation, absorbency
and skin comfort.
• However , hand becomes harsher and luster is reduced as crimp increases
• Crimp allows the fiber to stand off the skin so fabric will not cling to the
wearer skin.
• Crimp is inherent in the wool fiber.

• Fiber Diameter
• Fiber diameter refers to the thickness of the fiber. Thicker fibers result is
greater stiffness, which improves wrinkle resistance but can also result in an
undesirable roughness.
• Large diameter fibers result in bulkier fabrics. Fine diameter fibers can result
in fabric that is sheer, lightweight and generally more drapable and softer to
the touch than the fabric of thicker fibers.


• Chemical composition and molecular formation
• fibers are classified into various groups by their chemical composition:
• Cellulosic, protein and synthetic


Essential properties

• Abrasion Resistance- is the ability to resist wear from rubbing that contributes to

fabric durability.

• Exp- Nylon is used extensively in action outerwear, such as ski jackets , and soccer

shorts, because it is very strong and resist abrasion .


• Absorbency – Absorbency is the ability to take in moisture.

• Fibers able to absorb water easily are called hydrophilic fibers.

• Hydrophilic fibers- all natural animal and vegetable fibers and two manufactured
fibers, rayon and acetate.

• Hydrophobic fibers- fibers that have difficulty absorbing water and are only able to
absorb small amounts .
• Skin comfort, Static build-up, dimensional stability in water, stain removal,
water repellency, wrinkle recovery

• Cover- cover is the ability to occupy an area. A thick fiber or one with crimp or curl

gives fabric better cover than a thin, straight fiber.

• Elasticity- is the ability to increase in length when under tension (elongation ) and

then return to the original length when released (recovery)

• Lengthening when tension is placed on the fiber or fabric makes for a more

comfortable garment and causes less seam stress.


• Environmental conditions- the effect of environmental conditions on fibers vary.
How fabrics react to certain exposure or storage , is important. The following are
some examples-

• Wool garments needs to be mothproofed when stored because they are susceptible
to damage by these wool eating insects.

• Nylon and silk show strength losses from extended exposure to sunlight. Therefore ,
they are normally not used for curtains and drapes.

• Cotton has poor resistance to mildew and should not be allowed to remain wet for
long periods of time.


• Flammability- is the ability to ignite or burn.

• Fibers are usually classified as being flammable flame resistant , or flameproof.

• Flammable fibers- are relatively easy to ignite and sustain combustion.

• Flame-resistant fibers- have a relatively high ignition temperature and slow rate of
burning .

• Flame proof fibers- will not burn.

• Regular polyester is flammable , but Trevira polyester , which is flame resistant.


• Flexibility- is the capability of fibers to bend easily and repeatedly without breaking.

• Hand- is the way a fiber, yarn or fabric feels when handled. The hand of the fiber is
affected by its shape, surface and configuration .

• Luster- refers to the light reflected from a surface. Various characteristics of a fiber
effect the amount of luster.
• Increased light reflection occurs from a smoother surface, less crimp, flatter cross
sectional shape and longer fiber length.

• Pilling- is the formation of groups of short or broken fibers on the surface of a fabric
that are tangled together in the shape of tiny ball called pill.

• Resiliency- is the capability of a material to spring back to shape after being creased,
twisted or distorted.
• A fabric that has good resiliency does not wrinkle easily


• Specific gravity- is the ratio of the mass of the fiber to an equal volume of water at
4degree c .

• Static Electricity- is a frictional electric charge caused by the rubbing together of two
dissimilar materials.

• Strength- is a fiber’s ability to withstand stress.

• Tenacity- the force needed to break the fiber, is known as tenacity and expressed in
grams per denier or grams per fiber weight.

• Glass, Nylon and Polyester are very strong. Acetate and acrylic are weak.


• Thermo plasticity- the ability of fibers to withstand heat exposure is an important

factor affecting their suitability for many end uses.

• Wicking- is the ability of fiber to transfer moisture from one section to another.

Usually the moisture is along the fiber surface, but it may also pass through the fiber

when a liquid is absorbed by the fiber.


scan

Molecular
arrangements in
fibers


Longitudinal forms
and surface texture
of fibers


Effects of external
features and delusterant
particles on fiber luster


Texturizing yarns


Developments of fibres
• Till the beginning of 20th century all fibres in use were natural

• Around 1891-92 the first man-made ‘Artificial Silk’ (Viscose rayon) was
discovered

• In 1938, Dupont developed the first synthetic polyamide fibre ‘Nylon’,
followed by the development of polyester

• Thus a distinct class of man-made fibres/ synthetic fibres were
developed

• 1950-60s –acrylic, PP, PVA, Teflon, Lycra were developed

• In the last fifty years of research a host of new improved man-made
cellulosic, protein, aramid and functional fibres have been developed


Classification of fibres

Fibres
Natural Man-made

Vegetable/Cellulosic Cellulosic

Animal/Protein Synthetic

Mineral Protein

Mineral

Metallic


Cellulosic fibres
Cellulosic fibres
Cotton
Hemp
Jute Sisal
Flax Kenaf Products
Sisal
Kenaf fibre
Coir
Pina
Banana
Bamboo
Hemp

Extraction of
Hemp filament bag Banana fibre

Coir mat

Costume from pina Jute Towels from bamboo
fibre Cotton fibre
fibre

Cotton
• Comfort factors
- High absorbency makes cotton
suitable for hot weather clothing
- Slow in wicking moisture from inner
to the outer surface of the fabric
Cross –section
and
longitudinal
view of cotton • Care factors
fibre before
mercerization
- May be laundered or dry cleaned,
withstands frequent laundering.
Cotton which is not sanforized tends
to shrink on washing
- Weakened by acids, have high
resistance to alkalies

Cotton fibre after
mercerization


Cotton fibre
• Microscopic appearance
• Crystallinity
• Tensile strength: 3.5 g/d -4 g/d ( wet strength 4.5 g/d)
• Elongation 3-7%
• Hygroscopic nature
• Chemical properties:
– Effect of acids
– Effect of alkalis
– Effect of bleaches
• Effect of sunlight


Flax (Linen)
• Comfort factors
- High absorbency and quick drying
makes linen suitable for hot weather
clothing
- Poor elasticity gives stiff handle

• Care factors
- May be laundered or dry cleaned,
withstands frequent laundering.
- Wrinkling and crease formation
occurs easily
- Weakened by acids, have high
resistance to alkalies

Cross sectional and longitudinal view of flax


Flax fibre
• Crystallinity more than cotton
• Tensile strength: 3.5 g/d -5g/d Elongation 2%
• Hygroscopic nature
– Effect of acids


Properties
Cotton Flax Jute Viscose
rayon
Composition Cellulose Cellulose Cellulose Cellulose

Tenacity, g/d 3-5 3.5-5 3.5-5 2.5 – 3

Elongation, 5% 2% 1.5-2% 16-18%
%
Moisture 8.5 % 7% 7% 12-14%
Regain. %
Thermal 1500 C starts 2800 C starts 2800 C starts 1500 C starts
properties discolouring, discolouring, discolouring, discolouring,
doesnot melt doesnot melt doesnot melt doesnot melt


Natural Protein fibres

Protein fibres

Silk Wool Speciality hair

Indian silk Sheep/ lamb Camel (alpaca)

Mulberry Goat (mohair)

Tasar Angora rabbit

Muga Goat (Cashmere)

Chinese silk

Dupion silk

Spun silk


Wool
• Comfort factors
- Absorbs water, good wicking
ability
- Thermal and insulating qualities
contribute to warming effect
making it suitable for cold weather
SEM clothing
image
of wool
• Care factors

- Usually dry cleaned
- Yellows and discolours when
subjected to chlorine bleach
Wool fibre - Damaged by moths unless
with natural treated
crimp
- Susceptible to pilling


Wool -properties
• Structure
• Felting of wool: It is the irreversible shrinkage of the length, breadth or
thickness of the yarn. This is done by subjecting the woollen textile to
agitation in an aqueous solution.
• Wool polymer: keratin ( repeating units: amino acids)
– Cystine ( sulphur containing amino acids)
– Crystallinity: 25-30 % crystalline
• Tenacity: 1.4-2.4 g/d
• Elongation: 25%
• Moisture regain: 18-20%
• Heat of wetting from dry to saturation ( joules per gram): 113
• Thermal properties: poor conductor
• Setting of wool
– Temporary set
– Permanent set
– Chemical set
• Chemical properties


Silk
• Comfort factors
- Absorbs moisture, good wicking ability
- High thermal conductivity
- Warmer than other natural fibre
fabrics of comparable weight, good
elasticity
• Care factors
- Preferably dry cleaned, stains from
body oil and perspiration, water spots
appear from steam
- Tends to shrink when dry cleaned
- Attacked by moth and other insects

SEM image of silk filament

Silk -properties
• Structure
• Silk polymer: Amino acids( 16 types. Wool- 20 types)
• Crystallinity: 60-70% crystalline
• Tenacity: 4.5 g/d
• Elongation: 20%
• Moisture regain: 11%
• Thermal properties: poor conductor
• Chemical properties
– Degrades more readily by acids than wool ( acidic perspiration damages
silk)
– Alkalis causes swelling and dissolution


Angora
• The hair of the Angora rabbit is allowed to
grow 3 or more inches long before it is

Angora
clipped, sheared, or plucked. This process
rabbits causes no harm to the animals and are
carried out four times each year.
• The total annual yield for a single Angora
rabbit ranges from 7 to 14 ounces, is
enough to construct one small garment,
such as a short-sleeved sweater.
• Clothing of Angora rabbit wool are usually
have a very nice feel against the skin.
Many people who find garments made of
sheep’s wool scratchy and uncomfortable
find Angora wool comfortable.

Polarized microscopy image Angora wool
of angora fibre

Cashmere
• Properties
- Fibre is cylindrical, soft and silky, light
weight
- In order to avoid pilling by local
friction, the lining must be slippery
- Cashmere/ Pashmina can be dyed in
different colours
Cashmere / Pashmina goats
• Care factors
- Preferably dry cleaned, should be
dried in shade, not direct sunlight
- Cashmere garments should be folded
and kept and should not be hanged to
prevent deformation.

Polarized light microscopy
image of cashmere

Alpaca


Mineral fibre (Asbestos)
• Type of rock ( silicates of
magnesium and calcium)

• Asbestos is used in industry for
thermal insulation, fireproofing and
sealing.

• Spun asbestos is used for fireproof
and chemical-resistant clothing.

• The inhalation of large quantities of
fibre can cause asbestosis which
increases the risk of bronchial
cancer.
Asbestos fibres
• In particular, dusts < 200 micron
are highly toxic and suspected of
being a direct cause of tumours.


Man made fibres

Man made

Refractory
Natural polymer Synthetic polymer
and related fibres

Regnerated cellulose Polyesters Carbon fibre

Cellulose acetate Polyamides Glass fibre

Regenerated protein Polyurethane Metallic fibres

Alginate, Chitosan Polypropylene

Polyethylene


Regenerated cellulosic fibre

Regenerated cellulosic fibre

Viscose rayon Polynosic Modal Lyocel Cellulose acetate Cellulose triacetae


Viscose rayon
• Comfort factors
- More absorbent than cotton, without
producing wet cling
- The irregular cross-section of viscose
contributes to comfort when worn
against skin

• Care factors
- May be laundered or dry cleaned;
easy to iron


Viscose rayon -properties
• Crystallinity 35-40%
• Tensile strength: 2.5 g/d -3 g/d ( wet strength 1.5 g/d)
• Elongation 16-18%
• Moisture regain: 12-14%
• Chemical properties: More sensitive to acids than cotton
– Effect of acids


Viscose rayon of different
cross-sectional shapes

Viloft - a flat cross sectional viscose
“Galaxy”- a Y–shaped viscose
rayon fiber gives a unique soft handle
rayon fibre with highly absorbency
and pleasing drape
and bulk

Modal
• Comfort factors
- More stronger than viscose in wet
and dry state
- One problem is the almost perfectly
circular cross-sectional shape; this
makes leaner yarns than irregularly
shaped standard viscose rayon.

• Care factors
- May be laundered or dry cleaned;
easy to iron
- But gradually fibrillate on wet
processing

Cross-section of modal fibres


Lyocell
• Comfort factors
- More absorbent than cotton
• Care factors
Cross - May be laundered or dry cleaned;
section of easy to iron
lyocell
- But gradually fibrillate on abrasion in
wet state
• Produced by Acordis and Lenzing AG.
More costly than viscose rayon

Surface
view of
lyocell
Fibrillation of lyocell fibre

Cellulose acetate
• Comfort factors
- Moisture regain is lower than viscose
rayon

• Care factors
- Dry cleaning is recommended; easy to
iron, dries quickly
SEM mage of cellulose acetate
cross-section - Shrinkage can occur during
laundering

• Applications
- The use of acetate fibre has declined
in the past three decades but it can be
used for medical gauze, ribbons,
home furnishings, woven velvets,
tricot knits, men's linings, circular
knits, woven satins, woven women's
linings.
Polarized microscope image of - Thermoplastic fibre –can be heat set
cellulose acetate filament- striations
on surface

Cellulose acetate- properties
• Crystallinity : 40%
• Elongation 16-18%
• Moisture regain: 6.5 %
• Thermal properties: Heat sensitive, softens at 175-1900C
– Effect of acids: Acids hydrolyze
– Effect of alkalis: Resistant to alkalies
– Effect of bleaches: Same as cotton fibres
• Effect of sunlight:


Regenerated protein fibre-
soybean protein fibre
• Soybean protein fibre (SPF) is
produced from the residual cake
after oil is extracted from soybean
seeds.

• SPF fabrics have cashmere feel
but is softer and smoother than
Soybean seeds cashmere.

• The moisture absorption is similar
to that of cotton

• It has silk like luster and elegant
drape.
Soybean
fibre • The elastic recovery rate is 55.4%
products where for other fibres it is 60-
70%.
• Good colour fastness

Man made fibres from
synthetic polymers


Polyester fibre ( polyethylene
terepthalate)

Coolmax (INVISTA) microchannel polyester fibre
Antibacterial polyester for sportwear
Normal polyester fibre fibre (zeolite added)
• Comfort factors
- Most popular and common fibre
used in active wear and
sportswear.
- Wicking is faster than cotton
through hydrophobic in nature
- Hydrophilic finish can be applied
when worn next to skin
‘Eskimotech’
• Care factors
Hollow polyester filament
blanket from hollow
polyester fibre - Easy care fibre

Polyester-properties
• Structure: Normal cross-section is circular
• Moisture regain: 0.4%
• Tenacity: Strong fibre (2.4-7 g/d) Wet tenacity is the same.
• Wrinkle resistance/ Crease resistance: The extreme crystallinity of the
polymer system prevents the polyester filament from bending readily.
• Thermoplastic nature:
– Effect of acids: ester groups of polyester are resistant to acid
hydrolysis
– Effect of alkalis: Alkanine hydrolysis at the ester groups ( finer &
silkier with regular laundering)
– Effect of bleaches: Sodium chlorite
• Effect of sunlight: Resistant to sunlight


Nylon- polyamide polymer
• Comfort factors
- Trilobal and multilobal nylon
has good wicking properties
- High abrasion resistance
- High flexibility and elasticity
- Used in swimwear, cycling
shorts, sports socks, etc.
Nylon filament of
different cross-sectional
shapes • Care factors
- Easily laundered, dries fast
- Fabrics have high tensile,
tear and burst strength,
even at low fabric weight
Silver incorporated
antibacterial nylon
filament


Nylon -properties
 Structure: Normal cross-section is trilobal/ circular/
 Density: 1.14 g/cc ( light weight)
 Crystallinity: 65-85% crystalline
 Moisture regain: 4%
 Tenacity: Strong fibre (3.5-7.2 g/d) Wet tenacity is the same.
 Wrinkle resistance/ Crease resistance: The high crystallinity of the
polymer system makes nylon crease resistant.
 Thermoplastic nature:
 Chemical properties: More sensitive to acids than cotton
 Effect of acids: Less resistant to acid (amide groups- hydrolysis)
 Effect of alkalis: Frequent exposure causes alkanine hydrolysis
Effect of bleaches: hydrogen peroxide ,Sodium chlorite
 Effect of sunlight: Fair resistant to sunlight


Acrylic
• Comfort factors
- Acrylics have a soft handle
- The slight waviness of the
acrylic fibres provides slight
bulkiness to the yarns and
warmth

• Care factors
General cross-section and surface view of acrylic fibre - Easily laundered, machine
washable, dries fast

Blankets

Modacrylic winterwear Inflight products
Police vests

Properties-acrylic
• Structure: Normal cross-section dog bone
• Density: 1.17 g/cc ( light weight)
• Moisture regain: 2.5 %
• Tenacity: 2.0-3.6 g/d
– Effect of acids: Less resistant to acid
– Effect of alkalis: Weak alkalies do not affect acrylics
• Effect of sunlight: Fair resistant to sunlight
• End uses: blankets, carpets, socks, knitted sweaters, sportswear fabric


Polypropylene ( Olefin Fibres)

• Different types of yarn, tapes, sheets
Polarized microscope and nonwoven products can be made
image of PP filament • Used widely in the production of
disposable medical protective
apparels, carpets and industrial
textiles
Carpets
PP products

Medical products

Grass mats
Bags Antiweed fabric
Crop covers

Properties -olefin
• Density: 0.91 g/cc ( light weight)
• Moisture regain: 0-0.05 % ( Doesn't absorb moisture, helps in quick
transport of moisture)
• Tenacity: 1.5-7 g/d
• Chemical properties: generally excellent
• Effect of sunlight: Resistant to sunlight after incorporation of stabilizers
• Electric insulation : excellent
• Resistant to mildew, moth: Excellent
• End uses: carpets, socks, blankets, ropes, woven sacks, packing material,
soft luggage, surgical disposables, etc.


UHMWPE

• Ultra high molecular weight
polyethylene (UHMWPE)
e.g. Dyneema
Spectra ( Allied signal)

Bullet proof vest

Bullet proof helmet

Polyurethane
Discovered in
1959 at Dupont
by Joseph
Shivers, spandex
sprang in the
market as an
replacement for
rubber

• Properties
- Can be stretched to 600 times, elastic
property is unaffected by moisture due to
its hydrophobic nature
• Comfort factors
Spandex is a generic term used in USA for - Doesnot contribute to comfort
elastomeric fibre. • Care factors
LYCRA® is a registered trademark of INVISTA
for premium stretch fibers and fabrics - Hot water should not be used during
laundering. Should not be exposed to direct
sunlight


Properties -Polyurethane
• Density: 1.2-1.35 g/cc ( light weight)
• Crystallinity: amorphous
• Moisture regain: 0-0.3 %
• Thermal properties: High temperature affects the fibre
• Advantages over rubber: Prolonged exposure to sunlight hardens
& discolours rubber, it doesnot damage spandex. Body oils and
dry-cleaning solvents damage rubber not spandex.
• Sensitive to high concentrations of chlorine.


Man made fibres from
refractory and related
materials


Glass
• Properties
- Brittle in nature
- Resistant to very high
temperature
- Resistant to chemicals
- Limiting oxygen index (LOI) >100
- Best utilized by embedding in
matrix forms

• Applications
- Aircraft interiors
- Glass reinforced composites
- e.g. boat hulls, car bodies
- Insulating material


Carbon fibres
• Properties
- High strength and modulus
- Low extensibility and light weight
- Usable temperature 315-3700C
- Carbon nanotube incorporated
fibres are conductive in nature,
with extremely high tensile
strength
Carbon fibre
• Applications
- Used for manufacture of
structural composites, used in
aerospace, military,
transportation and for industrial
applications.

Carbon Fabric
Carbon nanotubes


Ceramic fibre
Properties:

• Low thermal conductivity
• Thermal shock resistant
• Light weight
• Excellent sound absorption
• Resists most chemical attack
• Unaffected by water & steam
• Very low heat storage
• Resilient
• Uses:

Fire screen made from
ceramic fibres


Metallic fibre
• Metallic fibre, are composed of
metal, metal-coated plastic, or of a
core covered by metal (usually
aluminum).
• Trademarked names include
Chromeflex, Lurex, and Melora.
• Foil types are made with a metal
foil that is coated with a plain or
coloured plastic film and then cut
into strips.

Protective coat with
reflectors Comingled
conductive yarn

Classification of fibres based on end
uses


Conventional fibres
• Natural • Applications
e.g. cotton, wool, silk, jute, etc.
- Apparel
- Furnishings
• Regenerated - Technical textiles
e.g. viscose, lyocel, soybean

• Synthetic man made
e.g. polyamide, polyester,
polyacrylics, polyurethanes,
polyolefins (PP)


High strength, high modulus
organic fibres
Applications
• Para-aramids
e.g. Kevlar (Dupont)
Twaron ( Acordis)
• Ultra high molecular weight
polyethylene (UHMWPE)
e.g. Dyneema Bullet proof
Bullet proof helmet vest
Spectra ( Allied signal)

Cut resistant gloves
using yarn made of
kevlar sheath and
spandex core

Kevlar and
PTFE rope
Dyneema cut resistant
gloves

Kevlar -properties
• Outstanding strength
• Temperature resistance
• Its resistance to chemicals and
temperature extremes
make Kevlar® an ideal
component for ropes and cables
under severe loads in harsh
environments.
• Other uses: Belting in radial tyres,
protective apparels, pressure
vessels, helicopter parts.


High chemical and combustion resistant organic fibres

Meta-aramids Fire Breaker -
e.g. Nomex (Dupont), Conex (Teijin) Innovative
Design & High-
Uses:
Tech Materials
An appealing
design, optimum
freedom of
movement
combined with
highest level of
protection – that
has not
automatically to
be a difference!

Texport

High performance inorganic
fibre
• Carbon
• Cearmics- high temperature
performance
• Tungsten
• Silicon carbide
Silicon carbide fibre

Silicon carbide fibre with
tungsten core

Fire screens made
of ceramic fibres

Microfilaments
• Linear density of approximately 1.0
dtex or less

• Usually made from polyester/nylon
Sea island
type • Brand names: Mitrelle, Setila,
microfibre Micrell, Tactel
manufactured
by Toray
Japan
• Used for production of fashionable
clothing and also bacteria barrier
fabric for medical applications

• Split technique of production
produces microfilaments that can
be used for wiping cloth for optical
and microelectronic industries
Splittable
microfibre
( Kanebo
Japan,Elaston
)

Microfilament products

Microfilament spunlace nonwoven :
Soft, drapable and much lighter than
traditional textiles. Highly dense and
compact fibre structure, very good
barrier properties, thermal
insulation, wind resistance and UV
Microfilament fabric can be constructed to be protection and highly breathable with
impermeable to water droplets while allowing air very good moisture management.
and moisture vapour circulation, with good wicking
properties.

Bath Products


Fabric studies final

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