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- 1. N EIGH B OR H OODS 33 AR OUN D TH E R E GIO N 4 5 TAX-F REE S H OPP ING 65 EIG H 2013-’14 TRAVEL PORTLAND PORT GREAT PLATES Portland’s celebrated dining scene sets the stage for an unforgettable visit. We sample the town’s top dishes. PAGE 27 TRAVELPORTLAND.COM 2013-’14 Local Goods Great souvenirs made here 22 Family fun for kids of all ages 73
- 2. JEFF MILLER AT LITTLE BIRD BISTRO WELCOME hank you for considering a visit to Portland. While people seek many different things when they travel, there’s one constant: Everybody’s got to eat. In Portland, that simple fact offers three opportunities a day — at least — to discover the city, indulge in fresh ingredients grown right here, and connect with people passionate about what they do and where they live. This food scene is as accessible as Portland itself, where light rail and streetcar lines connect diverse neighborhoods. And our favorite dishes are all over the map, coming from food carts, James Beard Award-winning restaurants, farmers’ market vendors and one iconic doughnut shop (see page 27). Want to taste all that Portland — and Oregon — has to offer? Don’t miss our international food festival, Feast Portland, which returns Sept. 20-23, 2013 (see p. 13). Of course, there’s much more to Portland than fantastic food. Between meals, you can indulge in tax-free shopping at unique independent shops, vintage stores and more (pp. 17, 65), keep kids of all ages entertained (p. 73) and explore the distinct areas of town (p. 33), including the growing Central Eastside, now connected to downtown by streetcar (p. 14). And, as much as we love our city, we wholeheartedly encourage you to get out of town to explore the amazing wine country, gorge, mountain and coastline that are all within easy reach of Portland. Find inspiration starting on page 45. We hope the details you find in this guide will whet your appetite. Portland looks forward to sharing a meal with you soon! P H OTO G R A P H B Y DA R RY L J A M E S TRAVELPORTLAND.COM T Jeff Miller President & CEO Travel Portland & & ( 0 ) ( ' % $ # © 0 ¥ ( ¢ ) 0 ! ¦ § 8 ¡ ¥ 7 ¢ © ¤ ¥ £ ¡ ¥ © 6 ¤ £ ¡ ¢ ¥ 5 © ¢ 4 3 § £ £ ¢ 2 ¡ ¡ 1 ¡ % ¢ $ $ ¡ ¥ © ¨ § ¡ £ ¤ ¢ ¦ 2 ¥ ¤ £ £ ¢ ¡
- 3. ALBERTA STREET’S LAST THURSDAY ART WALK CONTENTS FEATURES 45 GREAT PLATES STREET SCENE AROUND THE REGION With no sales tax, your money goes further in Portland — and with the city’s abundance of talented designers, there’s no shortage of seriously cool, locally made goods that serve as unforgettable souvenirs. Follow our guide to discover the companies that produce everything from retro bikinis and bamboo iPhone cases to the iconic Leatherman multitool right here in Portland. Over the past few years Portland’s dining scene has wowed food critics from coast to coast. But even with so many great restaurants to enjoy, certain meals stand out. Our guide plates up six of the city’s most quintessential dishes; from legendary food-cart meals to a doughnut-lover’s best friend, it’s one delicious trip. Plus: Downtown’s hottest new restaurants. Portland’s neighborhoods are as charismatic as they are accessible. Within minutes of the city center, visitors can discover some great shopping, dining and entertainment, along with ample personality. We profile nine districts, each home to delicious restaurants, independently owned stores and inviting recreation options. Scenic beaches, snowcapped peaks and pristine wilderness are all within 80 miles of the city. Explore waterfalls and microbrews in the Columbia River Gorge, or feel the sea breeze in an artsy beach town. Wine lovers savor worldfamous Oregon Pinot noir at its source and history buffs explore the Oregon Trail, while adventurers head to the slopes of Mount Hood for camping or singletrack riding, not to mention year-round skiing. P H OTO G R A P H B Y R O B F I N C H A N D T R AV E L P O R T L A N D 33 ( 0 ) ( ' % $ # © 0 ¥ ( ¢ ) 0 ! ¦ § 8 ¡ ¥ 7 ¢ © ¤ ¥ £ ¡ ¥ © 6 ¤ £ ¡ ¢ ¥ 5 © ¢ 4 3 § £ £ ¢ 2 ¡ ¡ 1 ¡ % ¢ $ $ ¡ ¥ © ¨ § ¡ £ ¤ ¢ ¦ ¥ ¤ £ £ ¢ ¡ 4 27 MEET OUR MAKERS TRAVELPORTLAND.COM 22
- 4. Located just minutes west of downtown Portland, Oregon’s Washington County is a destination filled with many adventures waiting to be discovered. With more than 30 wineries—the closest wineries to Portland—you can enjoy an urban-to-rural adventure within minutes. Dine at Washington County’s many acclaimed restaurants, while discovering new global cuisine. There are nearly 727-square miles of open spaces to explore, ranging from extreme zip-lining and cycling through forests to kayaking calm waters or playing a round of golf at one of 12 courses. Dozens of “u-pick” farms provide a true farm-to-table experience, while boutiques and retail centers provide the ultimate in tax-free shopping. Take a break from the city and breathe in the sights and sounds of the pristine countryside. Learn more about things to see and do, and get our event calendar at oregonswashingtoncounty.com.
- 5. DEPARTMENTS CONTENTS 2 10 13 18 91 93 WELCOME CONTRIBUTORS NOTEBOOK EVENTS RESOURCES MAPS 61 ARTS Find out why Portland’s Time-Based Art Festival has been called “the best contemporary summer festival in the country” by The New York Times. Plus: Local artists take to the streets during the city’s monthly art walks. 65 SHOPPING With nearly 50 vintage shops around town, the Rose City is a treasure trove of curated — and constantly updated — retro-cool dresses, jewelry and suits. Plus: A visit to the Portland Saturday Market is a local tradition. 13 SOLESTRUCK SHOES PORTLAND CHILDREN’S MUSEUM 69 OUTDOORS Our guide to the Springwater Corridor lets visitors sample the city’s wild side from the saddle of a bike. Plus: Skip the gym in favor of Portland’s scenic stair climbs. 73 FAMILY 77 73 77 NIGHTLIFE A craft-cocktail revolution is taking place in Portland. Follow our guide to the city’s hippest bars and innovative drinks. Plus: A sidesplitting tour of the town’s top comedy clubs. 81 DINING Portland’s love for brunch is legendary; Plus: Happy hour comes often in Portland. 8 BEAKER FLASK P H OTO G R A P H S A B OV E A N D L E F T B Y TO R S T E N K J E L L S T R A N D A N D T R AV E L P O R T L A N D TRAVELPORTLAND.COM hayrides add up to bushels of family fun during a day trip to nearby Sauvie Island. Plus: The city’s top kid-friendly destinations.
- 6. ( 0 ) ( ' % $ # 0 © ( ) ¥ 0 ¢ ¦ 8 ! § 7 ¡ ¥ ¢ ¤ £ © ¡ ¥ ¥ © 6 ¤ ¢ £ 5 ¡ ¥ © ¢ 4 3 § £ £ ¢ 2 ¡ 1 ¡ % ¡ $ ¢ $ ¡ ¥ © ¨ § ¡ £ ¤ ¢ ¦ ¥ ¤ £ £ ¢ ¡ YOU’RE THINKING OF We’RE THE PORTLAND SHOPPING? TAX-FREE AND DID WE MENTION CHEFS PIONEERING HOTELS HIP MUSIC INDIE
- 7. CONTRIBUTORS THE OFFICIAL MAGAZINE OF Portland Monthly magazine’s contributing food writer, Benjamin Tepler has spent the last two years interpreting chef shorthand, lining up citywide rounds of biscuit-tastings and blogging everything worth chewing on for the magazine’s dining blog “Eat Beat.” When he’s not lending his taste buds to pieces like “Great Plates” (p. 27) for Travel Portland, the New York native continues his search for the perfect boiled bagel. TRAVEL PORTLAND 877.678.5263 info@travelportland.com www.travelportland.com PRESIDENT AND CEO Jeff Miller EDITOR Karen Martwick EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT OF MARKETING AND P.R. Greg Newland Eden Dawn (yes, that is her real name), who covers vintage shopping (p. 65), is Portland Monthly’s style editor. Between coordinating fashion shoots for the likes of Portlandia stars Fred Armisen and Carrie Brownstein and reporting the latest sartorial trends, the native Oregonian can be found teaching fashion at the Art Institute of Portland. PUBLISHED BY SagaCity Media, Inc. PRESIDENT Nicole Vogel VICE PRESIDENT Kelly Montoya CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER Nancy J. Mitchell MANAGING DIRECTOR, CUSTOM MEDIA DIRECTOR OF DIGITAL PRINT PUBLISHING Claire McNally PRODUCTION MANAGER Scott Weber CONTRIBUTING WRITERS EDITORS Tom Colligan, Beth Collins, Kasey Cordell, Eden Dawn, Eric Gold, Emily Hutto, Allison Jones, Kate Loftesness, Kit Mauldin, Margaret Seiler, Julian Smith, Danielle Strom, Benjamin Tepler CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS Lincoln Barbour, James Bell, Matt D’Annunzio, Bruce Forster, Dylan Harkavy, Darryl James, McKenna Johnson, Stuart Mullenberg, Emanuele Nardoni, Amy Ouellette, Brian Roche, Erin Tegeler, John Valls, Matt Wong, Nathaniel Young ADVERTISING SALES Susan Crow, Jenny Kamprath, Kelly Tenuta SALES ASSISTANT Greta Hogenstad HUMAN RESOURCES DIRECTOR Phoebe G. Dineen, PHR TRAVELPORTLAND.COM Photographer Stuart “Stu” Mullenberg knows his way around the table. The Minnesota native regularly documents restaurants, bars and foodie culture for Portland Monthly and Imbibe magazines, and we asked him to do the same for us. Find his shots of standout dishes in “Great Plates,” Feast food festival in Notebook (p. 13), and cocktails in Nightlife (p. 77). Stu lives in North Portland with his wife, Korie, and daughter, Lily. Amy Ouellette loves photographing all things Portland, especially local food (see her photos in Dining, p. 81). In addition to regularly contributing to Travel Portland, her work has been published in USA Today, Bon Appétit and Portland Monthly, to name a few. She lives in Portland with her husband, kids and pug. Copyright © 2013 by Travel Portland. Not for resale. Travel Portland is not responsible for the business practices of the facilities mentioned. Neither Travel Portland nor SagaCity Media, Inc., is responsible for changes or variances that occur following publication. Advertising inquiries should be directed to Susan Crow of SagaCity Media at 503.222.5144, ext. 133. Editorial inquiries should be directed to Karen Martwick of Travel Portland at 503.275.9280. On the cover: Chef Naomi Pomeroy at Beast. st. Photograph by Stuart Mullenberg. 10 Printed on 10 percent post-consumer recycled paper. P H OTO G R A P H S F R O M TO P : C O U R T E S Y B E N J A M I N T E P L E R , E D E N DAW N , JULIAN SMITH, STUART MULLENBERG, AMY OUELLETTE ART DIRECTOR Thomas Cobb SENIOR EDITOR Brian Barker Southeast Portland resident and awardwinning travel writer Julian Smith, who contributed to “Street Scene” (p. 33), is the author of Crossing the Heart of Africa, a book about following the 4,000-mile, eight-country route of a love-struck 19thcentury British explorer. Smith also covers science and travel for Smithsonian, Wired, Outside and the Washington Post. e e g i R h g f R e d c R U b H a i V Q e D g A h X i W ` E Y F w @ D v A X S W H C D B S @ D X H W u C B @ A D t H W S V A P s P r P F B B U U A T S q @ @ I p R 9 @ Q d A e P c I c @ D H G F @ B C A E D C B B A @ 9
- 8. Portland 99W 5 18 18 22 Lincoln City Salem 101 20 34 99W 5 99 Eugene P H OTO G R A P H L E F T B Y T K ; A B OV E B Y T K Newport
- 9. NOTEBOOK Feast for the Senses A new culinary festival turns the world’s eyes on Portland kitchens. BY BENJAMIN TEPLER lame the coffee geeks, blame the microbreweries, blame the climate, and all that local produce . . . Fact is, Portland’s food scene is where it’s at.” With that 2011 announcement, Bon Appétit magazine put the foodie world on notice that the upstart, indie-minded Stumptown had officially cemented itself as a bona fide culinary capital — and that a coming-out party was in order. Enter Feast Portland (www.feastportland.com), the city’s first-ever world-class food festival. The inaugural three-day event in September 2012 drew upon a deep roster of Portland-bred talent (national James Beard Award-winning chefs, renegade food-cart cooks, sommeliers and beer experts, just for starters) and an international cast of kitchen royalty, including chefs from Michelin-starred restaurants, food writers from The New York Times and Bon Appétit, and foodie TV personalities. Feast 2.0 is set for Sept. 20-23, 2013 — but the Portland food scene dazzles in any season. The fertile Willamette Valley fills the pantries of acclaimed chefs and stocks booths and shelves at some of the country’s most impressive farmers’ markets and gourmet specialty shops. Close proximity to the Pacific means just-caught salmon, tuna and Dungeness crab. Organic farms deliver grass-fed beef and hazelnutfinished hogs. Deep, rain-washed forests harbor fresh chanterelle and morel mushrooms. Around town, more than 50 breweries produce thirst-quenching beers, while wine (and spirit) lists at nearly every restaurant are dominated by local products. Our bounty also spills over to a legendary food-cart scene (some 700 and counting) — and it’s not unheard of to experience all of these delights on the same city block. Your table is waiting. LOCAL CHEFS AT FEAST’S 2012 SANDWICH INVITATIONAL TRAVELPORTLAND.COM P H OTO G R A P H B Y S T U A R T M U L L E N B E R G “B 13
- 10. 99E 5 1 NE Weidler to w n /c hi n at o n NW Broadway w w b e dg Bri 4 NW 14th Ave SE Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd wn do RIV SE Grand Ave tow n road way SOUTHEAST TAYLOR STREET (S.E.Taylor Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd./ S.E.Taylor Grand Ave.) Walk just four blocks west (toward the river) for dining and nightlife hot spots like 5 clarklewis (1001 S.E. Water Ave., 503.235.2294; www.clarklewispdx.com), where c Mor ris Brid on ge E SE Morrison St SE Belmont St SE Taylor St SE 2nd Ave 7 6 c SE 3rd Ave Haw tho Brid rne ge 5 SE 1st Ave ETT LAM WIL SW B e 6th A v 5 99E SE Madison St SE Hawthorne Blvd prepared in an open kitchen; 6 Boke Bowl (1028 S.E. Water Ave.; 503.719.5698; www. bokebowl.com), home to wildly popular ramen dishes; and 7 Bunk Bar (1028 S.E. Water Ave., #130; 503.894.9708; www.bunkbar.com) with late-night eats and occasional live music. SW 4 th Av e SW SW Broa dwa y SW 1 3th A ve NE Couch St E Burnside St SE Water Ave W St OREGON CONVENTION CENTER (N.E. Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd. Hoyt/ N.E. Grand Ave. N.E. Hoyt) The environmentally friendly 3 Oregon Convention Center (777 E. Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd.; 800.791.2250; www.oregoncc.org) is home to the annual Wordstock literary festival and the Portland International Auto Show, as well as dozens of other events each year. Across the street you can cheer on the Blazers at homegrown sports bar 4 Spirit of 77 (500 N.E. Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd.; 503.232.9977; www.spiritof77bar.com). b 84 99E Burnside Bridge ER hat do many of Portland’s hottest restaurants, the Northwest’s largest S convention center andW Washin gt destinations like kid-friendly OMSI on St and the Rose Garden arena have in common? They’re all located just across the Willamette River from downtown — and they’re all on the new Portland Streetcar Central Loop (www.portlandstreetcar.org). Opened in September 2012, the new line expands the streetcar system, which also runs from Northwest 23rd Avenue through the Pearl District and downtown to the South Waterfront, SW Bridge to across the Broadway Har riso St Portland’s eastside. Herenare a few of the new must-stops. — Eric Gold lder south is the 2 Rose Garden arena (www. rosequarter.com), where you can catch an NBA game at the Portland Trail Blazers’ home court or take in a concert by the likes of Lady Gaga or Bruce Springsteen. 3 el Ste A newEverett St Portland NW Streetcar line connects favorite eastside sites. W Burnside St WA NE Grand Ave NE Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd 2 ld NW 15th Ave ay dw oa ge rid B Br o NOTEBOOK 99W Ride These Rails BROADWAY ROSS (North Weidler St./Broadway Ross Ave.) Just east of the Broadway Bridge, the Leftbank building is home to 1 Upright Brewing (240 N. Broadway; 503.735.5337; www.upright brewing.com), one of city’s most talked-about A NE Broadway am rqu e Ma ridg B 405 Portland Streetcar Central Loop Portland Streetcar stop MAX stop t hur 9 D For more complete maps, see pages 99W 93-96. THE OREGON RAIL HERITAGE MUSEUM 99E W Ross Island Way SW Barbur Blvd 8 MAX lines SW A r 1000 ft 200 m Bridge ALL ABOARD The Oregon Rail Heritage Center offers a first-class ticket to the past. Bordered by three modern rail lines — the Portland 14 OREGON MUSEUM OF SCIENCE AND INDUSTRY (S.E.Water Ave. OMSI) The end of the line (for now — the next expansion is set for 2015) is the kid-topia of 8 OMSI (1945 S.E. Water Ave.; 503.797.4000; www.omsi.edu), which offers 219,000 square feet of interactive, science-based exhibits, and the new 9 Oregon Rail Heritage Center (see below). d Oregon Rail Heritage Center (2250 S.E. Water Ave.; 503.680.8895; www.orhf.org) celebrates trains of the past. Opened in September 2012, the free, volunteer-run museum’s modern exhibit space showcases three vintage steam locomotives (two of which still run), including the which traveled between Los Angeles and San Francisco in the 1940s and pulled the American Freedom Train that toured the nation for the 1976 Bicentennial. “It’s probably the most famous steam locomotive in the world,” says executive director Phil Selinger. “Every model train company has made versions of it.” Train lovers also have the chance to book rides aboard ORHC’s December “Holiday Express,” which boards in Oaks Park and travels along the Willamette River. Can’t make that train? Rest easy: The center has a year-round slate of exhibits and events. — Eric Gold P H O T O G R A P H L E F T C O U R T E S Y W W W. Y O U T U B E . C O M / USER/844STEAMTRAIN, RIGHT BY BRIAN ROCHE A
- 11. Book the Portland Perks hotel package at www.travelportland.com and get free overnight parking (an average savings of more than $25/ night downtown), complimentary continental breakfast for two and a coupon book packed with more than $600 in savings. Also at www.travelportland.com, the Portland Attractions Pass lets you save up to 30 percent off admission to the city’s most popular destinations, including the Portland Art Museum and Oregon Zoo. NOTEBOOK SAVE ON HOTELS AND MORE FOLLOW US ONLINE FOREST PARK’S STONE HOUSE Fairy Trails Take a walk on Portland’s wild side with NBC’s Grimm. B lutbaden, Dämonfeuers and Hexenbiests — oh my! Those are just a few of the mythical creatures that inhabit Portland on NBC’s fairytale-inspired hit, Grimm. Locals know that life here is slightly tamer, but the Rose City’s storybook settings are 100 percent real. In fact, Grimm’s producers have said Portland is “its own character in our show.” Here’s a quick tour of some starring roles. — Danielle Strom Multnomah Falls The Stone House FANTASY An unwise rest stop for a Ziegevolk (a romantic but nefarious goat-man) on the lam. REALITY The second-highest year-round waterfall in the U.S. FANTASY A spooky backdrop for a battle between Grimm’s hero, Nick, and a Hexenbiest vixen. REALITY Built in the mid-1930s as a Works Progress Administration project, the now-empty “Stone House” was originally a public restroom. Explore the mossy remains on an easy hike along the Lower Macleay Trail in Forest Park. See p. 37. popular scenic wonder just 30 minutes east of town in the Columbia River Gorge National Scenic Area. St. Johns Bridge FANTASY The background for the home and business of a Reinigen, a rat-like pied-piper-style being. REALITY Visitors can ogle the 400-foot-tall gothic spires of this landmark from Cathedral Park, on the east side of the bridge. ReBuilding Center FANTASY out of a literal packrat. REALITY Located on hip North Mississippi Avenue, this whimsical warehouse serves as a hub for Portland’s DIY set, with recycling stations and stores of repurposed building supplies. Grand Central Bakery FANTASY Not even Grimms can resist Portland’s local artisan coffee and baking scene. REALITY With seven locations, booths at farmers’ markets and goodies served at many local restaurants, Grand Central is a local staple. Facebook facebook.com/travelportland Get access to exclusive content and contests. Twitter twitter.com/travelportland Use hashtag #inpdx for personalized advice. Flickr Browse thousands of photos and add your own. FREE MOBILE APP Put Portland in your pocket with our mobile app. The FREE city guide, available for iPhone and Android, lets you: EAT, SHOP and PLAY like a local. that makes Portland awesome. Get the latest events and weather, plus transportation and visitor information. Map hotels, restaurants, stores, arts venues, breweries and more. Save favorites to use on the go. Search for “Travel Portland” in the iTunes or Android app unes store, or visit www.travel sit portland.com/app. com/app. 15
- 12. NOTEBOOK Coffee Crawl Sample Portland’s (other) brewing scene at these downtown cafés. n Portland, coffee is the new wine, baristas are akin to rock stars and only the most tricked-out espresso machines are trusted with unique house roasts. With breakout local successes like Stumptown Coffee Roasters, which now boasts satellites in Brooklyn and Seattle as well as a burgeoning line of bottled cold brews, the city seems poised to take over (or at least overcaffeinate) the nation. In the meantime, visitors will find Portland’s bean scene is as accessible as it is diverse. In fact, you don’t have to leave downtown to sample some of the best cups. Here’s a short list that’s bound to get you buzzing. — Kit Mauldin I SIPHON BREWING METHOD AT BARISTA PUBLIC DOMAIN BARISTA Owner Joel Domreis starts most days with a 4 a.m. roasting session, cooking up to 100 pounds of fresh green beans before switching to baking duty in his minimalist storefront. Behind the bar made of locally sourced walnut, cold brews steep for 24 hours and light- and medium-bodied single-origin Andrea Spella’s closet-size café near Pioneer Courthouse Square showcases the Italian-American’s love for palate-engaging blended roasts and a fondness for rare bean varietals imported from Brazil and India. Order a traditional cappuccino and look for bags of tiny, handpicked peaberry beans from Karnataka, India, to savor back home. 520 S.W. Fifth Ave.; 503.752.0264; www.spellacaffe.com Coffee fanatics are encouraged to conduct their own tastings during Public Domain’s $2 espresso happy hour (11 a.m.-noon Mon. – Fri.; includes a complimentary, palate-cleansing Pellegrino shot). Or pick from one of many houseroasted single-origin varietals at the expansive pour-over bar. Whatever you sip, don’t forget to ogle the $20k, handmade Slayer espresso machine. 603 S.W. Broadway; 503.243.6374; www.publicdomaincoffee.com Run by a three-time winner of the Northwest Barista Competition, Billy Wilson, Barista coffee shops feature beans from some of the best roasters in the country, like San Francisco-based Sightglass. Wilson selects robust espressos, and the AeroPress brewing method employed here delivers cups with lots of body. Barista also has locations in the Pearl District and on Northeast Alberta Street. 529 S.W. Third Ave.; no phone; www.baristapdx.com P H OTO G R A P H S B Y DY L A N H A R K AV Y Portland’s most famous coffee export has four beautiful, bustling locations around the city, with two right downtown. More than a dozen locally roasted single-origin and blended roasts — including the company’s most popular, the aptly named Hairbender — line the shelves. Grab a bag of whole beans or sample a select few via single-cup pour-overs from the bar. 1026 S.W. Stark St. (at the Ace Hotel), 503.224.9060; 128 S.W. Third Ave., 503.295.6144; www.stumptowncoffee.com j l ‘ k j i ‘ h g f ‘ ” e ‡ d l • h ƒ j € k — l – ™ „ ˜ … t y ƒ s € — ’ – ‡ ‚ ƒ ’ y ƒ — ‡ – r ‚ y € ƒ q ‡ – ’ • € ‰ p ‰ o ‰ … ” ” € “ ’ n y y ˆ m ‘ x y g € h ‰ f ˆ f y ƒ ‡ † 23-karat-gold-plated cones. Domreis’ cannelés also have a dedicated following. 923 S.W. Oak St.; 503.545.6444; www.couriercoffeeroasters.com STUMPTOWN COFFEE ROASTERS h … y ‚ € „ ƒ ‚ € y x 16 SPELLA CAFFÈ h TRAVELPORTLAND.COM COURIER COFFEE ROASTERS
- 13. Look Local ICE CREAM SAMPLER FROM SALT STRAW Here’s how to make Portland’s distinct style your own. FOR THE LADIES FOR THE FELLAS A stylish bag that keeps all of your necessities in one easy spot dominates the gotta-have-it list. Ellington’s leather bags put a Portland spin on this wardrobe basic with leather sourced from an enviromentally friendly tannery. Ellington Leather; 1211 N.W. 23rd Ave., 503.542.3149; www.ellingtonhandbags.com Channel your inner bike messenger with an over-the-shoulder buckle bag from Chrome’s only Northwest storefront. Chrome; 425 S.W. 10th Ave.; 503.719.4693; www.chromebagstore.com 1 4 Embrace the Northwest plaid stereotype (it exists for a reason) with Blake’s selection of rugged woolly and warm button-ups. Blake; 26 N.W. 23rd Ave.; 503.542.3149; loveblake.tumblr.com 5 City gals need their feet to look good but still be able to walk for blocks. A pair of Rachel Comey boots from Solestruck meets both criteria. Solestruck; 417 S.W. 13th Ave.; 503.224.3591; www.solestruck.com 2 If you’re a gent in Portland, you are carrying your cash in a locally crafted, vegetable-tanned, domestically sourced Tanner Goods leather wallet. ’Nuff said. Tanner Goods; 1308 W. Burnside St.; 503.222.2774; www.tannergoods.com 6 dition of a printed Pendleton (Oregonbased since 1863) Portland Collection cardigan. Frances May; 1013 S.W. Washington St.; 503.227.3402; www.francesmay.com 3 P H OTO G R A P H B Y M AT T H E W D ’ A N N U N Z I O , F A R R I G H T B Y T H O M A S C O B B 4 5 3 6 1 2 NOTEBOOK T ICE CREAM OF THE CROP Creativity might just be in the water — or the cream — in Portland. estaurants and food carts aren’t the only places to experience Portland’s hyperlocal independent culinary scene — you can also savor that creativity by the scoop. Opened just two years ago, Salt Straw (2035 N.E. Alberta St., 503.208.3867; 838 N.W. 23rd Ave., 971.271.8168; www. saltandstraw.com) has already spawned a second location (with a third in the works for summer 2013) and entranced food critics from the likes of Bon Appétit and Sunset magazine. Unexpected recipes like strawberry with balsamic vinegar and black pepper, pear with blue cheese, and Arbequina olive oil might raise eyebrows, R Watch for limited-edition offerings, like the Timbers-soccer-inspired “Rose City Riot,” featuring rosewater, pistachios and saffroninfused cream. Farm-fresh ingredients are no strangers to Ruby Jewel (428 S.W. 12th Ave., 971.271.8895; 3713 N. Mississippi Ave., 503.505.9314; www.rubyjewel.net). The ice creamery got its start at the Portland Farmers Market and now boasts a pair of brick-and-mortar locations serving locally sourced scoops, sundaes and addictive ice cream sandwiches. Try the lemon cookie with honey lavender ice cream or adventurous specials like chevre with port. The downtown shop also features a candy shop and soda fountain. For a true mad scientist’s approach, try What’s the Scoop? (3540 N.Williams Ave.; 971. 271.7694; www.whatsthescooppdx. com), which utilizes liquid nitrogen to fast-freeze its handcrafted treats for include Maple Jack (as in Jack Daniel’s whiskey) Bacon Brittle and peanut butter curry. Experimentation has rarely tasted this sweet. — Karen Martwick TRAVELPORTLAND.COM here’s more to nailing Portland’s signature casual-cool look than simply popping on a little plaid. After all, a true local is prepared to cycle to work, dodge raindrops and hoof it to a gallery opening in one versatile ensemble. Luckily, the West End and Nob Hill shopping districts make it easy to snap up some quintessentially Portlandic accessories. Here’s what to look for. Just remember to leave the kilts, handlebar mustaches and rollerderby socks to, er, advanced Portlanders. — Eden Dawn 17
- 14. Timbers MLS Soccer MARCHOCTOBER Catch a Portland Timbers (www. portlandtimbers.com) game at downtown’s JELD-WEN stadium or at a nearby Timbers bar and meet the fiercely loyal fans of the Timbers Army. Events Festivals SUMMER June Top eateries offer four weeks of delicious deals during Portland Dining Month (www. portlanddiningmonth.com). From food and drink to music and parades, Portland finds something to celebrate all year long. World Naked Bike Ride SPRING Portland Farmers Market Year-round TRAVELPORTLAND.COM With six locations offering fresh produce, 18 more, the Portland Farmers Market (www. portlandfarmersmarket. org) is considered one of the world’s best. There are four markets downtown: Saturdays at Portland State University (MarchDecember); Saturdays in the South Park Blocks at Salmon Street (January-February); Mondays at Pioneer Courthouse Square (JuneSeptember); and Wednesdays in the South Park Blocks at Salmon Street (MayOctober). June Portland Saturday Market Cinco de Mayo Fiesta March-December May 3-5, 2013 The nation’s longest-running open-air arts and crafts market, the Portland Saturday Market (www. portlandsaturdaymarket.com) features artisans selling their wares in a scenic riverside setting — open Sundays, too. See p. 66 for more. The Cinco de Mayo Fiesta (www.cincodemayo. org), Portland’s largest Latino event, offers authentic Mexican music, crafts and entertainment, including performers from Guadalajara, one of Portland’s sister cities. Bridgetown Comedy Festival April 18-21, 2013 The popular Bridgetown Comedy Festival (www.bridgetowncomedy.com) draws top comics like Reggie Watts and Janeane Garofalo, and was voted the nation’s best comedy festival in the 2010 Punchline Magazine readers’ poll. Memorial Day in Wine Country May 25-27, 2013 During Memorial Day in Wine Country (www. willamettewines.com), more than 150 Willamette Valley wineries — many not usually open to the public — open their doors to visitors. Portland’s version of the World Naked Bike Ride (www.pdxwnbr.org) is the largest one in the world. Around 5,000 cyclists take to the streets in this free, clothing-optional nighttime trek through the city. Portland Pride June 15-16, 2013 Portland Pride (www. pridenw.org), the city’s annual lesbian, gay, bisexual and transgendered (LGBT) community celebration, features a parade, live entertainment and family events at Waterfront Park. Events continue on p. 21 Portland Rose Festival MAY 24 – JUNE 9, 2013 Since 1907, the Portland Rose Festival (www.rosefestival.org) has been the city’s quintessential event. The familyfriendly fest kicks off Memorial Day weekend and includes the Grand Floral Parade (June 8), dragon boat races, concerts and more. P H OTO G R A P H A B O V E B Y C R A I G M I T C H E L L DY E R , B E L OW B Y TO R S T E N K J E L L S T R A N D A N D T R AV E L P O R T L A N D Portland Dining Month
- 15. Events Festivals CONTINUED Oregon Zoo Concerts June-September Music is in the air here — even at the zoo. Oregon Zoo Summer Concerts (www.oregonzoo.org) feature national artists like the B-52s, Indigo Girls and more. Arrive early to stake out a spot on the lawn, then see the animals before the show. MUSICFEST NW SEPT. 4-8, 2013 Spanning four days and nearly 20 venues, Musicfest NW (www.musicfestnw. com) showcases local and national acts around town — including a few headliners on the outdoor stage at Pioneer Courthouse Square. Waterfront Blues Festival July 4-7, 2013 acts, as well as spectacular Oregon Brewers Festival July 24-28, 2013 Craft breweries from around the United States bring more than 80 beers to the Oregon Brewers Festival (www.oregonbrewfest.com), the largest gathering of independent brewers in North America. Pickathon P H OTO G R A P H R I G H T B Y J U L E S D OY L E Aug. 2-3, 2013 In the 15th year of the Pickathon Indie Roots Music Festival (www. pickathon.com), the celebrated six-stage folk festival at the lush Pendarvis Farm just outside Portland features headliners Feist and Andrew Bird. Time-Based Art (TBA) Festival September 12-25, 2013 During the Time-Based Art Festival (www.pica.org/ tba), visual artists, musicians, dancers and other creatives from all over the world push boundaries with installations, performances and interactive art experiences. See p. 61. FALL Feast Portland: Food Drink Festival Sept. 19-22, 2013 Back for its second year, Portland’s wildly successful international food and beverage festival, Feast Portland (www. feastportland.com), celebrates Oregon’s bounty and showcases culinary talents both local and global. Great American Distillers Festival Oct. 4-5, 2013 The Great American Distillers Festival (www. distillersfestival.com) is an annual celebration of craft distilling and the country’s premier gathering of distillers. Sample Portland’s renowned craft spirits along with dozens of offerings from around the nation. Holiday Ale Fest Holiday Light Displays Thanksgiving–Christmas Some of Portland’s bright spots include ZooLights (www.oregonzoo.org/visit/ zoolights), a display of more than a million lights at the Oregon Zoo, and the Christmas Ship Parade (www.christmasships.org), featuring brilliantly decorated boats on the Willamette and Columbia rivers. WINTER ChocolateFest Portland International Film Festival January February Love chocolate? You won’t want to miss ChocolateFest (www. chocolatefest.org), a weekend dedicated to sampling and savoring everything from The Portland International Film Festival ( is the granddaddy of Portland’s chocolate from more than 80 exhibitors. Portland Trail Blazers Basketball Chinese New Year at Lan Su Chinese Garden October-April January-February Winners of the 1977 NBA Championship, the Portland Trail Blazers (www.nba.com/blazers) play at the Rose Garden arena; Blazers faithful take in games at the nearby Spirit of ’77 and other Blazers sports bars. The two-week Chinese New Year celebration at Lan Su Chinese Garden (www.lansugarden.org) includes lion dances, children’s activities, martial arts and cultural and historical demonstrations. The festivities culminate with a traditional lanternviewing ceremony. local premieres from around the globe. Portland Jazz Festival February Celebrating both the jazz genre and Black History Month, the Portland Jazz Festival (www. pdxjazz.com) is packed with more than 150 concerts, including performances by major international artists and scores of free gigs showcasing local talent. For a complete calendar of events, visit www.travel portland.com. Dec. 4-8, 2013 With revelry and cheer, the Holiday Ale Fest (www. holidayale.com) serves up more than 40 varieties of strong seasonal brews right under the giant holiday tree in Pioneer Courthouse Square. Rose City Rollers Roller Derby JANUARY-JUNE Portland’s all-female flat-track roller derby league, the Rose City Rollers (www.rosecityrollers.com), holds local and national bouts at the historic Oaks Park rink in Southeast Portland. TRAVELPORTLAND.COM The Waterfront Blues Festival (www. waterfrontbluesfest.com) — the largest blues festival west of the Mississippi River — rocks crowds on the riverbank and on the water 21
- 16. Meet OUR Makers B Channel your inner Marilyn Monroe with these retro-inspired bathing suits. Portland designer Pamela Levenson translates her love for the 1940s and ’50s into halter-top one-pieces, high-waisted bikini briefs and matching swim skirts for sexy modesty. 318 N.W. 11th Ave. 503.282.5159; 2030 N.E. 42nd Ave.; 503.243.7946; www.popinaswimwear.com TANNER GOODS SCHOOLHOUSE ELECTRIC CO. P H OTO G R A P H O P P O S I T E B Y L I N C O L N B A R B O U R LEATHERMAN If Davy Crockett were alive today, odds are he’d proudly boast a Leatherman tool on his belt. The iconic brand of multitools, knives and related accessories has been a go-to for outdoorsy types since 1983. Still, this Portlandhow to keep up with the times — tool models like the “Juice” come in non-Crockett-approved colors blue, purple, orange and red. 10109 N.E. Cascades Parkway; 503.408.5550; www.leatherman. com; available at US Outdoor Store, 219 S.W. Broadway; 503.223.5937; www.usoutdoorstore.com Known for its retro-cool lighting and hardware offerings, including handblown antique reproduction shades, this 10-year-old company’s 23,000-square-foot showroom in the Northwest Industrial District showcases its made-in-Portland goods. Inside the reclaimed warehouse space, shoppers can also peruse Schoolhouse Electric’s softer (and more portable) side in the form of pillows, throws, rugs, and clever gift ideas like selvedgecovered journals and organic soap. 2181 N.W. Nicolai St.; 503.230.7113; www.schoolhouse electric.com This West End shop is a go-to for heirloom-quality leather goods in the form of belts, bags and wallets. The buttery-smooth pieces are made from superior raw materials meticulously cut and shaped by Tanner’s stable of dedicated craftspeople. 1308 W. Burnside St.; 503.222.2774; www.tannergoods.com GROVE Many locals wouldn’t be caught anywhere without their iPhones — or without one of Grove’s protective phone cases. Each one is made from a single block of bamboo that’s been hand-sanded and oiled before being laserengraved with either a signature design or your own custom imagery. www.grovemade.com; available at Radish Underground, 414 S.W. 10th Ave.; 503.928.6435; www.radishunderground.com LAURA IRWIN / HAUNT BETSY AND IYA This tucked-away shop in the fashionable Nob Hill district carries its own signature brand of metalwork — hand-pounded pieces twisted into cool geometric shapes, with a runwayready collection of etched and oxidized cuffs inspired by two of Portland’s most iconic bridges (St. Johns and Fremont). 2403 N.W. Thurman St.; 503.227.5482; www. betsyandiya.com Northwesterners know the value of a cozy scarf or hat, and knitwear designer and author Laura Irwin offers an array of the most fashionable (and functional) around. Her hand-knit accessories made from pettable yarns like angora, combed wool alongside clothes by Holly Stalder and Rachael Donaldson’s Demimonde jewelry in their shared studio/boutique, Haunt. 811 E. Burnside St.; 503.928.7266; www.hauntstudioandshop.com TRAVELPORTLAND.COM POPINA SWIMWEAR lame it on the pioneer spirit still dwelling within us (or maybe the fact that we just like to play with tools), but the craft culture is alive and well in Portland. These 10 companies churn out consistently cool goods for the rest of the nation to fawn over, from fashionable swimwear and accessories to built-to-last leather goods and stylish lighting fixtures. — Eden Dawn 23
- 17. MS. WOOD Fashion-forward Portlanders obsess over Ms. Wood’s innovative collection of kimonoinspired womenswear, fringed leather bags, obi belts and wooden shoes and jewelry. Pieces are dreamed up by Alicia Wood and then crafted with help of husband Ben Wood in the couple’s North Portland home studio. www.mswoodboutique.com; available at Mabel and Zora, 748 N.W. 11th Ave.; 503.241.5696; www.mabelandzora.com EGG PRESS TRAVELPORTLAND.COM Paper hasn’t been this cool since, well, ever. Local letterpress masters give an age-old technique a total reboot, using sustainable materials like 100 percent cotton paper to make distinctive greeting cards, gift wraps and stationery. The whimsical art also comes with a good sense of humor, including graphics like “What’s growin’ on?” mustache charts and piles of bread that say, “Nice buns.” www.eggpress.com; available at many Portland stores, including Powell’s City of Books, 1005 W. Burnside St.; 503.228.4651; www.powells.com RED CLOUDS COLLECTIVE Red Clouds Collective got its start by asking local artists, photographers and others what kinds of products they couldn’t live without — or what they’d always wished they had. The result? Ultra-nifty carrying cases, leather iPhone wallets and signature bags stitched right here from sturdy materials like waxed canvas and Hermann Oak bridle leather with HISTORY MUSEUM AT THE OREGON HISTORICAL SOCIETY ‰ { ˆ ‡ | … www.redcloudscollective.com; available at HandEye Supply, 23 N.W. Fourth Ave.; 503.575.9769; www.handeyesupply.com ® ® ° ² « ± ° ¯ « ® ¬ « £ ª z ’ † ‘ Œ … ‡ x † … „ Œ ƒ y € y ‚ y € ƒ u ~ Ž } u Œ | v { z v v Œ y ‹ x w w v u 24 w Š œ © ² ¤ Ÿ ® ˜ ° • ± ¦ ² ¥ ¨ Å § š Ä ” ˜ à •  ¡ » œ Á ˜ · ¡ À ¿ ¦ ¾ ¥ ½ — – ” ¶ ˜ ¼ œ » ¡ ¤ ¶ ž º ž ¹ ž ¸ · · £ £ ¶ ¢ ¡ µ ” ” ´ ³ ” Ÿ • ® ž ¬ ¬ ” ˜ œ › š ” – — • ™ ˜ — – – • ” “
- 19. Chef Gabriel Rucker at Le Pigeon Great Plates P H O T O G R A P H B Y D A R RY L J A M E S By Benjamin Tepler TRAVELPORTLAND.COM The best way to savor Portland’s most iconic dishes? One bite at a time. 27
- 20. Le Pigeon Burger LE PIGEON TRAVELPORTLAND.COM For years, James Beard Award-winning chef Gabriel Rucker made only five of these a night at his eastside Le Pigeon, to avoid turning the bistro into a burger shack. (He’s since relented and no longer enforces a limit.) The coveted ground round comes pierced with a knife and oozes with aged white cheddar, iceberg slaw and pickled onions on a sturdy Ken’s Artisan Bakery roll. Insider tip: Le Pigeon’s sister restaurant, downtown’s Little Bird (219 S.W. Sixth Ave.), also offers the burger all day. 738 E. Burnside St.; 503.546.8796; www.lepigeon.com Cart-ography Navigate the city’s many food carts. 28 Portland’s selection of food cart cuisine — the town claims more than 600 — has drawn raves from the likes of Bon Appétit magazine and CNN. Most are grouped in “pods,” making dining on the go especially delicious. Here are a few to try. downtown pods S.W. Stark St. Fifth Ave. S.W. Alder St. 10th Ave. Set on the MAX line, the Fifth Ave. cluster includes the Brunch Box, with its dozen decadent burgers. The Alder pod, near Powell’s Books, claims favorites like Euro-Trash (fresh potato chips and other street food) and the Whole Bowl (veggies topped with addictive garlic sauce). Mississippi Marketplace North Mississippi Avenue Skidmore Street Set on hip, walkable Mississippi, the 10 choices here include breakfast standout the Big Egg, with sandwiches like the Arbor Lodge, which features local farm eggs, caramelized onions and baby arugula. Adding to the feast, Koi Fusion’s truck dishes Korean-style tacos every day but Sunday. Cartopia Southeast Hawthorne Boulevard 12th Avenue A favorite of late-nighters, this eastside grouping hosts Potato Champion, which dishes up crispy, twice-fried Belgian-style fries and gravy-doused poutine. Pyro Fried Pies burst with molten fruit — Brian Barker
- 21. Bacon Maple Bar VOODOO DOUGHNUT Voodoo Doughnut has been serving outrageous creations 24 hours a day for nearly a decade: Toppings have ranged from Cap’n Crunch cereal to a NyQuil glaze (an option quickly quashed by health officials). But the doughnut that launched a thousand bacon-themed spinoffs — the Bacon Maple Bar — celebrates the same happy marriage of pork and syrup found on the breakfast plate. As the ultimate sinful indulgence, it’s earned a big nod from famous globe-roaming diner Anthony Bourdain and inspired an eponymous ale from Oregon brewery Rogue. 22 S.W. Third Ave., 503.241.4704; 1501 N.E. Davis St., 503.235.2666; www.voodoodoughnut.com Ike’s Wings Pok Pok’s fish sauce wings may be Portland’s most successful culinary export. After conquering the Rose City with three acclaimed restaurants, Thai grilling expert Andy Ricker took his Southeast Asian authenticity to the streets of New York, where Ike’s Wings were extolled as “New York’s Best Wings” in 2012 by New York Magazine. Try them at their original home (or sibling locations, Whiskey Soda Lounge and Pok Pok Noi) and plan to lick your fingers. 3226 S.E. Division St.; 503.232.1387; www.pokpokpdx.com TRAVELPORTLAND.COM P H OTO G R A P H S B Y S T U A R T M U L L E N B E R G POK POK 29
- 22. Down Time New eateries enliven downtown’s dining scene. Imperial The latest venture from James Beard Award-winning chef Vitaly Paley anchors Broadway’s artsy Hotel Lucia and sports bike-chain chandeliers and exposed brick walls. Paley and executive chef Ben Bettinger collaborate nightly on the robust menu, with standout dishes like duck meatballs in plum sauce and seared Oregon albacore atop a bed of vanilla-scented crab creamed corn with fried onions. Feeling more casual? Head next door to Portland Penny Diner, Paley’s counter-service diner serving an array of sandwiches and daily options like meatloaf or fried oysters. 410 S.W. Broadway; 503.228.7222; www.imperialpdx.com; www.pennydiner.com TRAVELPORTLAND.COM Lardo A retro studio-light-style sign spells out Lardo’s mission statement: Pig Out. Offerings include a pork meatball banh mi with tangy Sriracha mayo and a slow-roasted pork Philly cheese. Even the fries get piggy — the addictive house-cut “dirty fries” come piled up with morsels of crispy pork. The Bloody Mary, made with horseradish-infused vodka, is one of the most potent in town. 1205 S.W. Washington St.; 503.241.2490; www.lardopdx.com 30 tasty n alder John Gorham, chef and owner of the east side’s wildly popular Toro Bravo and Tasty n Sons, opened Tasty n Alder in downtown’s West End in early 2013. Brunch, served all day, includes global dishes like Korean fried chicken with house kimchi and eggs two ways. Dinner options range from Cowboy Skirt Steak to Sexy Filipino Fish Stew — and can be accompanied by “Grown Ass” milkshakes spiked with liquor. 580 S.W. 12th Ave.; 503.621.9251; www.tastyntasty.com Grüner Christopher Israel’s West End eatery evokes parallels between the climates and terrains of Oregon and Northern Europe. The sleek modern dining room woos sophisticated palates with dishes like red-wine-braised lamb shanks bacon and sweet onions. Israel also makes one decidedly down-home hamburger. Stacked with smoky bacon and fontina, it’s a must-try on the restaurant’s bar menu. 527 S.W. 12th Ave.; 503.241.7163; www. grunerpdx.com — Allison Jones Foie Gras Bon–Bon BEAST While no two menus are ever the same at Naomi Pomeroy’s dinnerparty-like restaurant, the Foie Gras Bon-Bon happens to be one luxurious staple. This goose-liver gem appears on Beast’s charcuterie plate alongside chicken liver mousse, steak tartare with quail egg on toast, and pork and pistachio pâté. But the buttery lobe crowned with a quivering slice of salted gelée of Sauternes (a French dessert wine) is in a league of its own. 5425 N.E. 30th Ave.; 503.841.6968; www.beastpdx.com The Reggie Deluxe PINE STATE BISCUITS From its humble farmers’ market beginnings to a full-blown biscuit empire, Pine State has garnered a serious reputation for hefty North Carolina-style butter biscuits and creative fillings. The pièce de résistance: a towering sandwich stacked high with buttermilk-fried chicken, a fried egg, cheddar, bacon and sausage gravy. Dubbed a “hangover cure” by Esquire, this one’s worth the sometimes lengthy wait. 2204 N.E. Alberta St., 503.477.6605; location at S.E. Division Street 11th Avenue planned for 2013; available at Portland Farmers Market at PSU on Saturdays; www.pinestatebiscuits.com
- 23. P H OTO G R A P H S B Y S T U A R T M U L L E N B E R G NONG’S KHAO MAN GAI Portland’s biggest food-cart crush serves but one dish: Khao Man Ghai, a Thai street-food staple that’s as simple as it is delicious. Succulent poached chicken and rice comes wrapped in butcher paper, along with a soybean sauce infused with concentrated garlic, ginger and Thai chili heat, and a simple, brothy soup. Owner Nong Poonsukwattana’s cart is no one-hit wonder — demand is so strong for her specialty that she now boasts three separate locations, including an eastside brick-and-mortar to-go storefront, and her signature sauce is sold by the bottle for an edible souvenir. S.W. 10th Avenue Alder Street, 971.255.3480; 411 S.W. College St., 503.432.3286; 609 S.E. Ankeny St., Suite B, 503.740.2907; www.khaomangai.com TRAVELPORTLAND.COM Khao Man Gai 31
- 24. 34 DOWNTOWN 35 PEARL DISTRICT 36 OLD TOWN/CHINATOWN 37 NW PORTLAND/ NOB HILL 38 HAWTHORNE/BELMONT 39 CENTRAL EASTSIDE 40 CLINTON/DIVISION STREET SCENE 41 ALBERTA ARTS DISTRICT 42 MISSISSIPPI/WILLIAMS TRAVELPORTLAND.COM P H OTO G R A P H B Y B RU C E F O R S T E R Each with its own distinctive personality and style, PORTLAND’S NEIGHBORHOODS add character to the city. FIRST THURSDAY ART WALK IN THE PEARL DISTRICT 33
- 25. EAT At the 1 Alder food cart pod (S.W. Alder Street between 10th Avenue and Alder Street whole block (and then some), nearly any cuisine can be summoned. Crowds swell at lunchtime, so expect plenty of company at all-star spots like Nong’s Khao Man Gai, the Whole Bowl and 808 Grinds. Legions of hungry downtowners also favor tiny 2 Bunk Sandwiches (211 S.W. Sixth Ave.; 503.972.8100; www.bunksandwiches.com), where chef-turned-sammie-slinger Tommy Habetz dreams up concoctions like Oregon albacore tuna melts and pork belly Cubanos. Next door to the Ace Hotel, 3 Clyde Common (1014 S.W. Stark St.; 503.228.3333; www.clydecommon.com) serves rustic, seasonal, Euro-inspired fare (think tagliatelle pasta lined bar, polished bartenders pour some of the city’s most exacting cocktails. Atop the Nines hotel, 4 Departure Restaurant + Lounge (525 S.W. Morrison St.; 503.802.5370; www.departureportland. com) serves Asian cuisine and some of the best views in town. SOUTHWEST DOWNTOWN Explore walkable streets, a modern transit system and a beloved public square. the Armory SW SW M Director Park Salm 8 on S t 8 Portland State University SW 9 9 Taylo Mor rison St SW Y amh ill St ve ket e 6th A v SW Broa SW Mar Terry Schrunk Plaza St SW Clay S Keller Auditorium t ETT Park WIL LAM Park way ront Nait o SW Wate rf Mor r Brid ison ge st Av e 3rd A SW 1 SW Park Ave SW dwa y th Av e Ave 10th SW SW 9 SW 34 St 7 5 SW d Av e Was hing ton r St Portland Portland Art Center for the Museum 6 Performing Arts Oregon Lownsdale Historical Square SW Society Jeff Chapman City erso Square n St Hall South S Park Blocks Star k St 4 8 ain S t ER IVER ve 5th A SW SW SW 2n 5th A ve Central Library SW Alde r St Downtown Pioneer Courthouse Square SW 1 TRAVELPORTLAND.COM 1 SW Portland Saturday Market e O’Bryant Square 11 2 Burnside Bridge SW Ankeny St SW Ash SW St Pine St th Av 10 SW Pine St SW 6 3 road way W Burnside St SW Ankeny St SW Oak St SW B SW 13th Ave SW 1 2th A ve SW 11th Ave Pearl District Plaza old town/ Chinatown WM adis on S t Blue Line MAX (Hillsboro/Gresham) Green Line MAX (Clackamas) Red Line MAX (Airport/Beaverton) Yellow Line MAX (Expo Center) Haw MAX horn Brid tstop e ge Portland Streetcar Portland Streetcar stop For more complete maps, see pages 93-96. Served by multiple bus lines. Details at www.trimet.org. PLAY Nicknamed Portland’s Living Room, 5 Pioneer Courthouse Square (701 S.W. Sixth Ave.; www.pioneercourthousesquare.com) is a hub of civic fun. The most-visited spot in town hosts some 300 events each year, including farmers’ markets, free concerts, movies and a grand holiday tree-lighting party. A short walk away, the 6 Portland Art Museum (1219 S.W. Park Ave.; 503.226.2811; www.pam.org) showcases a top-notch collection of Asian and Native American artifacts and frequent touring exhibits such as Cyclepedia, a bicycle design retrospective on view June – Sept. 2013. For a quick workout, skip the hotel treadmill in favor of the 7 Waterfront Park-Eastbank Esplanade Loop. The 2.9-mile circuit traces the banks of the Willamette River and links the Steel and Hawthorne bridges, all while delivering nonstop city and river views. SHOP Dating back to 1992, the 8 Portland Farmers Market (three seasonal downtown locations; see www.portlandfarmersmarket.org for details) is a dazzling — and palate-pleasing — display of Oregon’s bounty, with dozens of growers and food vendors. To satisfy your fashion sense, 9 Pioneer Place (700 S.W. Fifth Ave.; 503.228.5800; www. pioneerplace.com) offers easy access just off the MAX line to some 70 retailers, including HM and J. Crew. The hip West End also has mustshop stores like 10 Frances May (1013 S.W. Washington St.; 503.227.3402; www.francesmay.com), featuring high-end designers such as Rachel Comey and Gretchen Jones, as well as Pendleton’s Portland Collection, and 11 Canoe (1136 S.W. Alder St.; 503.889.8545; www.canoeonline.net) specializing in modern home accessories. — Brian Barker P H OTO G R A P H A B OV E B Y B R U C E F O R S T E R PIONEER COURTHOUSE SQUARE
- 26. NW 12th Ave NW 13th Ave NW 14th Ave NW 15th Ave Green Line MAX (Clackamas) Yellow Line MAX (Expo Center) MAX stop Portland Streetcar Portland Streetcar Central Loop Portland Streetcar stop Tanner Springs Park NW Marshall St For more complete maps, see pages 93-96. Served by bus lines 17 and 77. More details at www.trimet.org. NW Lovejoy St NW Kearney St 405 Jamison Square NW Johnson St Portland Union Station/ Amtrak 4 NW Irving St Pearl District NW 14th Ave W Burnside St NW 5th Ave NW 6th Ave old town/ Chinatown NW Davis St NW Couch St NW Broadway NW 8th Ave NW Park Ave NW Everett St 2 6 North Park Blocks NW 4th Ave 1 NW 11th Ave NW Flanders St NW 9th Ave 7 NW Glisan St 3 NW 10th Ave NW 15th Ave NW Hoyt St 5 SW Ankeny St Downtown JAMISON SQUARE NORTHWEST PLAY PEARL DISTRICT 4 Jamison Square (N.W. 11th Ave. Johnson St.; www.portland parks.org) draws scores of families thanks to its tide-pool-like fountain SHOP EAT The buzzword at 1 (333 N.W. 13th Ave.; 503.894.8978; ) is “catch-inspired,” meaning ultra-fresh seafood like the standout whole roasted sole and more unusual plates like octopus with chorizo cream. 2 Oven Shaker (1134 N.W. Everett St.; 503.241.1600; www.ovenandshaker. com) showcases the talents of four-time James Beard Award-nominated chef Cathy complemented by well-studied cocktails that keep the place hopping. Offerings like stuffed piquillo peppers and house-made ceviche have made the upscale Peruvian 3 Andina (1314 N.W. Glisan St.; 503.228.9535; www. andinarestaurant.com) a long-standing Pearl hot spot. Listen for live music nightly. THE PORTLAND STREETCAR AT TANNER SPRINGS PARK have 5 Powell’s City of Books (1005 W. Burnside St.; 503.228.4651; www.powells.com), Portland’s temple to the printed word. Color-coded maps, helpful staff and even an iPhone app help you navigate the tomes. Find chic women’s clothing and accessories at 6 house of lolo (1037 N.W. Couch ), including brands like Parker, Black Halo and Genetic Denim. Portland-based shoemaker 7 Keen Footwear (515 N.W. 13th Ave.; 503.402.1520; www.keenfootwear.com) has gone international, but you can still peruse their distinctive tough-but-stylish shoes TRAVELPORTLAND.COM P H OTO G R A P H A B OV E B Y B R U C E F O R S T E R , B E L OW B Y T H O M A S C O B B Loading docks and cobblestone streets hint at this warehouse district’s past, while stylish bars and gleaming lofts point toward the future. few minutes, providing an ideal setting for splashing. One evening a month, the doors of many Pearl art galleries stay open late for the First Thursday gallery walk ( ), with music, wine and, of course, lots of chances to scope out the art. Be your own designated driver — make that pedaler — on the BrewCycle (971.400.5950; www.brewcycleportland.com), a zany, human-powered contraption that conveys up to 15 riders between pubs and breweries in the neighborhood. 35 recycled bleacher seats that double as shoe-testing surfaces. — Julian Smith
- 27. SOUTHWEST AND NORTHWEST OLD TOWN/ CHINATOWN In downtown Portland’s oldest district, historical architecture and nightlife options fill the the blocks near the west end of the Burnside Bridge. EAT Street foods from a variety of Asian cuisines are on the menu at the newly expanded 1 Ping (102 N.W. Fourth Ave.; 503.229.7464; www.pingpdx.com). Standout small plates include skewers of hardboiled quail eggs wrapped in bacon and ju pa bao, Macanese-style pork chop buns. Wash it all down with inventive cocktails or “no proof” drinks. 2 Gilt Club (306 N.W. Broadway; 503.222.4458; www.giltclub.com), also deals in sturdy cocktails and retro atmosphere, with high-back red booths providing comfortable nooks 3 Davis Street Tavern (500 N.W. Davis St.; 503.505.5050; www.davisstreettavern.com) are equally inviting, as are the hearty lamb burger and decadent mac and cheese. PLAY SW Blue Line MAX (Hillsboro/Gresham) Green Line MAX (Clackamas) Red Line MAX (Airport/Beaverton) Yellow Line MAX (Expo Center) MAX stop ito Na y wa rk Pa Portland Union Station/ Amtrak Jamison Square NW Flanders St NW Glisan St old town/ Chinatown 2 B St Star k St terfront Park ll Wa cCa SW Tom M SW Was hing ton Ave Ave 3rd St Downtown 2nd O ak SW Ankeny St SW Ash St St SW SW Pine SW ve 5th A SW 7 Burnside Bridge WIL LAM ETTE NW 1st Ave NW 2nd Ave Japanese American Historical Plaza W Burnside St SW e dwa y th Av SW 6 Broa 1 NW 3rd Ave 5 8 North Park Blocks SW O’Bryant Square NW 4th Ave NW Davis St 6 RIVER NW Everett St 3 9 Gov. Pearl District NW Couch St Central Library For more complete maps, see pages 93-96. Served byl multiple bus e lines. Details at Ste idge www.trimet.org. r 4 Powell’s City of Books 36 Greyhound Bus Terminal NW 5th Ave NW 6th Ave NW Broadway NW Park Ave NW 8th Ave NW 9th Ave NW 10th Ave NW Hoyt St NW 11th Ave TRAVELPORTLAND.COM NW Irving St SHOP goodies alongside a mind-boggling selection of local, handcrafted wares at the legendary 7 Portland Saturday Market (also open Sundays; Waterfront Park and Ankeny Plaza, by the west end of the Burnside Bridge; 503.222.6072; www.portlandsaturdaymarket.com; see p. 66 of 8 Compound Gallery (107 N.W. Fifth Ave.; 503.796.2733; www.compoundgallery.com) showcases stylish shoes, vinyl toys and other diverse works. To give your abode that Portland feel, stop at 9 Pendleton Home (210 N.W. Broadway; 503.535.5444; www.pendleton-usa.com) for goods from one of Oregon’s oldest and most famous businesses. Along with Pendleton’s iconic woolen blankets, the company’s only home-goods location features a complete indoor décor line and plenty of their sought-after board shirts. — J.S. P H OTO G R A P H L E F T B Y C A N B A L C I O G L U , CHINATOWN GATE Constructed of materials shipped directly from Suzhou, China, the 4 Lan Su Chinese Garden (N.W. Third Ave. and Everett St.; 503.228. 8131; www.lansugarden.org) is considered one of the most authentic Chinese gardens in the country. A two-story teahouse pavilion overlooks a tranquil pond and meticulously tended foliage. Another kind of history lives on at 5 Ground Kontrol Classic Arcade (511 N.W. Couch St.; 503.796.9364; www.groundkontrol.com), where you can revive long-dormant gaming skills on original Donkey Kong and Ms. Pac-Man machines — except this time there’s a full bar at your elbow. Nights are practically guaranteed to be memorable at 6 Darcelle XV (208 N.W.Third Ave.; 503.222.5338; www.darcellexv.com), a campy cross-dressing cabaret that’s been a Portland institution since 1967.
- 28. NW Vaughn St NW Upshur St Portland Streetcar Portland Streetcar stop NW Thurman St 4 6 NW Savier St For more complete maps, see pages 93-96. Served by bus lines 15, 18, 20 and 77. More details at www.trimet.org. NW Quimby St NW Pettygrove St NW 19th Ave NW 25th Ave NW 24th Ave NW Raleigh St NW 18th Ave NW 24th Pl NW 23rd Pl NW Vaughn St NW Overton St NW Northrup St NW Marshall St NW Lovejoy St NW Kearney St NW Johnson St 9 NW 21st Ave NW 22nd Ave NW 23rd Ave 1 7 NW Irving St NW Hoyt St 3 Couch Park NW Glisan St NW Flanders St 2 W Burnside St NW Trinity Pl Washington Park NW Davis St NW 20th Ave 8 NW 20th Pl 5 NW 22nd Pl NW Everett St BLAKE NORTHWEST NORTHWEST PORTLAND/NOB HILL Find distinctive boutiques and high-end eats within minutes of one of the country’s largest urban forests. PITTOCK MANSION PLAY SHOP 1 Bamboo Sushi (836 N.W. 23rd Ave.; 971.229.1925; bamboosushi.com) Looking for a vampire-killing kit, an interactive alien autopsy or maybe a live magic show? Enter the one-of-a-kind 4 Peculiarium (2234 N.W. Thurman St.; 503.227.3164; www.peculiarium. com), part museum, part art gallery, part ice cream parlor and 100 percent fun. For real outof-this-world views, climb high into Portland’s West Hills to the stately 23 rooms on exhibit at the 5 Pittock Mansion (3229 N.W. Pittock Drive; 503.823.3623, www.pittockmansion.org). The view east, across the Willamette River, takes in downtown’s skyline and snowy Mount Hood. The aptly named 6 Forest Park (N.W. Upshur St. and 29th Ave.; 503.823.7529; www.portlandparks.org) puts wilderness within minutes of Nob Hill. For easy access, take the Lower Macleay Trail in the adjacent Macleay Park. Gatsbys, derbies, ball caps and fedoras are just a few of the vintage and updated hat styles to try on inside one of only three 7 Goorin Bros. (808 N.W. 23rd Ave.; 503.227.5300; www.goorin. com) locations in the Northwest. For the perfect pair of jeans, visit 8 Blake (26 N.W. 23rd Place; 503.222.4848; loveblake.com), where owner Blake Nieman-Davis offers spot-on fashion advice and a deep roster of high-end denim, including Paige and AG. 9 Lena Medoyeff (710 N.W. 23rd Ave.; 503.223.4929; www.lenadress.com) is known for her simple, elegant bridal designs, but her boutique also stocks her distinctive silk “Lena dresses” ideal for any (special) occasion. — J.S. V X A W V U A T S R A D Q 7 P X E @ T 3 V 0 W G X F I 4 H 5 f ) 3 e 0 G B F 7 2 3 1 B ) 3 G 7 F d 2 1 ) 0 3 c 7 F B E 0 9 b 9 a 9 5 1 1 D D 0 C B ` ) ) 8 Y A ( ) @ S 0 T 9 R 8 R ) 3 7 6 5 ) 1 2 0 4 3 2 1 1 0 ) ( P H OTO G R A P H S B Y M C K E N N A J O H N S O N 37 T house-cured wild ivory salmon and a gorgeous seafood charcuterie board. 2 Ken’s Artisan Bakery (338 N.W. 21st Ave.; 503.248.2202; www.kensartisan.com) draws morning crowds with its Paris-perfect baguettes and buttery almond croissants, while 3 23Hoyt (529 N.W. 23rd Ave.; 503.445.7400; www.23hoyt.com popular for its scrumptious but affordable happy hour offerings and its sidewalk tables. T country, was such a hit in its original eastside location that a second branch was inevitable. TRAVELPORTLAND.COM EAT
- 29. BAGDAD THEATER SOUTHEAST HAWTHORNE/ BELMONT PLAY One of only a handful of extinct volcanoes within city limits in the U.S., 5 Mt. Tabor Park (S.E. Salmon St. and 60th Ave.; www.portlandparks.org) is a 636-foot cinder cone that boasts panoramic views of downtown. On for summer-evening concerts. Since it opened in 1927, the 6 Bagdad Theater (3702 S.E. Hawthorne Blvd.; 503.467.7521; www.mcmenamins.com/ bagdad) has hosted everyone from Sammy Davis Jr. to a performing horse named Beverly. Part of the McMenamins brewing empire, the theater now hosts second-run movies and stage events — enjoy microbrews while you watch — as well as multiple bars for pre- or post-show revelry. 7 Slappy Cakes (4246 S.E. Belmont St.; 503.477.4805; www.slappycakes.com) offers up EAT own pancake masterpieces. Farm-to-table pioneer 1 Genoa (2832 S.E. Belmont St.; 503.238.1464; www.genoarestaurant.com that changes according to what’s in season. Soak up the more casual bar scene at sister café 2 Accanto next door. A visit from Anthony 3 Apizza Scholls’ (4741 S.E. Hawthorne Blvd.; 503.233.1286; www.apizzascholls.com) rep for serving some of best pizza . . . well, anywhere; the round beauties feature toppings like cured pork shoulder and goat horn peppers. 4 ¿Por Qué No? (4635 S.E. Hawthorne Blvd.; 503.954.3138; www.porquenotacos.com) is a colorful taqueria that will have you saying “Why not?” to another tasty taco or two, served amid eyecatching art or on the homey patio on sunny days. SHOP 8 Powell’s Books for Home and Garden (3747 S.E. Hawthorne Blvd.; 503.228.4651; www.powells.com) specializes in cookbooks and gardening titles and stocks plenty of unique gifts to please design- and plant-loving folks. (There’s also a general Powell’s outpost two doors down.) 9 Mink Boutique (3418 S.E. Hawthorne Blvd.; 503.232.3500; www.shopmink.com) stocks a great assortment of skirts, dresses and name-brand jeans, with a down-to-earth sales staff to point you in the right direction. 10 Noun (3300 S.E. Belmont St.; 503.235.0078; www.shopnoun.com) bills itself cleverly as “A SE Main St SE Madison St SE Salmon Ct SE Salmon St SE Hawthorne Blvd 3 5 SE 51st Ave SE Clay St 4 SE Madison St SE 50th Ave 8 6 SE Clay St SE Taylor St SE 49th Ave 9 For more complete maps, see pages 93-96. From downtown, served by bus lines 14 and 15. More details at www.trimet.org. SE Yamhill St SE 48th Ave SE 37th Ave SE 33rd Ave SE 32nd Pl SE Hawthorne Blvd SE 32nd Ave 38 SE 31st Ave SE Main St SE 36th Ave Sunnyside School Park SE 35th Ave SE 34th Ave SE 33rd Ave SE 32nd Ave SE 31st Ave SE 29th Ave SE 28th Ave SE 27th Ave SE 26th Ave SE Yamhill St 7 SE Yamhill St SE 47th Ave SE Belmont St SE 45th Ave 10 2 SE Morrison St SE 39th Ave / Cesar Chavez Blvd 1 SE 38th Ave SE Morrison St SE Morrison St P H OTO G R A P H A B OV E B Y J O N L A R S O N jewelry and gorgeous stationery — plus sweets from Saint Cupcake. — J.S. SE 42nd Ave TRAVELPORTLAND.COM The bustling sidewalks of Southeast Hawthorne Boulevard and Belmont Street are close enough to hit both in an afternoon of shopping, strolling and snacking.
- 30. NE Martin Luther King Jr. ri lB e dg e Ste NE Lloyd Blvd SOUTHEAST NE Hoyt St lvd dB NE Glisan St NE Glisan St 84 NE Flanders St NE Everett St 99E University of Oregon 99E NE Couch St 3 Blv d Sa nd y SE tz Eastb SE Oak St SE Stark St 2 SE 9th Ave 5 SE Washington St SE 7th Ave planad SE Pine St SE 10th Ave SE 7th Ave 8 e SE Ash St SE Alder St Mor rison Brid ge PLAY SE 6th Ave 7 Vera K a WIL LAM ETT E Located just across the Willamette River from downtown, this burgeoning warehouse district offers hip eateries, stylish storefronts and creative energy. 9 E Burnside St SE Ankeny St ank Es RIVE R Burnside Bridge SE 8th Ave CENTRAL EASTSIDE EAT y Llo NE SE Morrison St 5 OLYMPIC PROVISIONS thor n Brid e ge SE Grand Ave SE 3rd Ave SE 2nd Ave SE 1st Ave Haw SE Taylor St SE Salmon St 6 SE Main St 6 SE Madison St SE Hawthorne Blvd 6 traveling exhibits or such permanent Omnimax theater. In a titanic, centuryold industrial DISTILLERY ROW laundry warehouse, 5 Yale Union (YU) (800 S.E. 10th Ave.; 503.236.7996; www. yaleunion.org) inspires with events, exhibits and lectures that highlight emerging and established contemporary artists from around the globe. The Central Eastside’s industrial aesthetic 6 Distillery Row (www.distilleryrowpdx.com), a collection of everything from homegrown cherry brandy to barrel-aged bourbon. SE 11th Ave with grilled eggplant or the habit-forming house-made Twinkies. A few blocks away at 2 Olympic Provisions Southeast (107 S.E. Washington St.; 503.954.3663; www. olympicprovisions.com), local salami masters craft a rotating feast of Spanish- and Mediterranean-inspired small plates and entrées like olive-oil-poached tuna along with hearty servings of kielbasa and beef short ribs. 3 Biwa (215 S.E. Ninth Ave.; 503.239.8830; www. biwarestaurant.com an izakaya and a juicy burger layered with marinated pork and spicy kimchi mayo. SE Yamhill St 1 SE Market St SE Mill St SE Stephens St 4 m ua rq Ma e idg Br SE Harrison St 6 SE Lincoln St SE Grant St Portland Streetcar Central Loop Portland Streetcar stop For more complete maps, see pages 93-96. From downtown, served by bus lines 6, 10, 12, 14, 15, 19, 20, 31, 32, 33 and 99. More details at www.trimet.org. SHOP East Burnside is beginning to rival downtown as fashion central: 7 Machus (542 E. Burnside St.; 503.206.8626; www.machusonline.com), a tightly curated boutique for men and women, carries high-end designers from Saturdays NYC to Naked Famous inside a hip, minimalist space. Nearby, 8 Una (922 S.E. Ankeny St.; 503.235.2326; www. una-myheartisfull.com) offers a collection of exotic knickknacks, indie clothing and local housewares sourced by thrift-store whiz Giovanna Parolari. For one-of-a-kind jewelry, try 9 Sword + Fern (811 E. Burnside St., #114; 503.683.3376; www. swordandfern.com), which showcases recycled and repurposed trinkets from local artisan Emily Baker and houses a monthly, rotating art gallery. — Benjamin Tepler TRAVELPORTLAND.COM P H OTO G R A P H B E L OW B Y J A M I E F R A N C I S T R AV E L P O R T L A N D with fried chicken, oysters and fresh noodles. Don’t miss Located on the east bank of the Willamette River (and now accessible via the Portland Streetcar), the 4 Oregon Museum of Science and Industry or OMSI (1945 S.E. Water Ave.; 503.797.4000; www. omsi.edu) is a ringer for all-age family entertainment. Check SE Water Ave Boke Bowl (1028 S.E.Water Ave.; 503.719.5698; www.bokebowl.com) has earned a devoted following with its creative take on ramen. Think rich, SE Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd SE Belmont St 1 39
- 31. EAT Each evening 1 St. Jack (2039 S.E. Clinton St.; 503.360.1281; www. stjackpdx.com) transforms from a sleepy pâtisserie serving baked-to-order madeleines into a full-blown Lyonnaise feast with unexpected hits like blood sausage and Gruyère-laden macaroni gratin. 2 Nuestra Cocina (2135 S.E. Division St.; 503.232.2135; www.nuestra-cocina.com) has been a neighborhood staple for years thanks to nuanced Mexican cuisine such as authentic albóndigas (meatballs served in a hearty chipotle sauce) and spoton margaritas. The cozy 3 Woodsman Tavern (4537 S.E. Division St.; 971.373.8264; www.woodsmantavern.com) offers whiskey-forward cocktails, super-fresh chilled seafood and the must-try ham platter stacked with smoked and salted varieties from across the country. Woodsman owner Duane Sorenson (who also founded Stumptown Coffee) added Italian to his repertoire with 4 Ava Gene’s (3377 S.E. Division St.; 971.229.0571; www.avagenes.com 5 Wafu (3113 S.E. Division St.; 503.236.0205; www.wafupdx.com) a “rock’n’-roll” ramen house with a long bar, cocktails featuring hand-chipped ice and noodles loaded with smoked pork shoulder. And you can’t discuss dining on Division without a nod to 6 Pok Pok (3226 S.E. Division St.; 503.232.1387; www.pokpok.com; see p. 29), the famed Thai street spot that’s been drawing raves — and crowds — since 2005. Skip the lengthy wait and get many of the same eats at sister 7 Whiskey Soda Lounge, across the street. PLAY A modern take on the neighborhood wine bar, 8 Bar Avignon (2138 S.E. Division St.; 503.517.0808; www.baravignon.com) stocks 80 well-priced WAFU ON SOUTHEAST DIVISION STREET chicken and one of Portland’s best oyster selections highlight an elegant seasonal dinner menu. 9 Bula Kava House (3115 S.E. Division St.; 503.477.7823; www.bulakavahouse.com) is an entire bar devoted to the SOUTHEAST served in coconut cup shells. CLINTON/ DIVISION SHOP 10 Twill (2132 S.E. Division St.; 503.922.2084; www.twillclothing.com) is a go-to gem for colorful, affordable Portland-made clothing, from indie T-shirts to little black dresses — plus a permanent 10 percent discount for teachers. Opened in 2012 by Louisiana transplant Tausha Lell, 11 ReBelle’s (3611 S.E. Division St.; 337.654.0293; www.rebellespdx.com) is SE Brooklyn St 3 SE Ivon St SE Taggart St SE Woodward P H OTO G R A P H B Y DY L A N H A R K AV Y SE Cesar Chavez Ave SE 35th Pl SE Caruthers St SE 43rd Ave SE 40th Ave SE Sherman St 11 4 SE Taggart St SE Grant Ct SE 38th Ave SE Caruthers St SE Caruthers St SE 33rd Pl SE 27th Ave SE Sherman St SE 35th Ave SE 26th Ave SE 25th Ave SE 20th Ave SE Taggart St SE Clinton St SE Sherman St For more complete maps, see pages 93-96. From downtown, served by bus lines 4 and 10. More details at www.trimet.org. SE 46th SE 19th 1 SE Ivon St SE Grant Ct 5 9 7 6 SE Division St SE 23rd Ave 40 SE 22nd Ave 2 10 8 SE 28th Pl SE Caruthers St SE Grant St SE 24th Ave SE Sherman St SE 38th Ave SE Grant St SE Grant St SE Grant St SE 37th Ave SE Lincoln St nearly 60 fragrances and oils, and an ample dose of Southern charm. — B.T. SE 41st Ave SE 29th Ave TRAVELPORTLAND.COM A rich crop of noteworthy restaurants distinguishes this eastside district.
- 32. NORTHEAST The focus at 8 Monograph Bookwerks (5005 N.E. 27th Ave.; 503.284.5005; www.monographbookwerks.com), is on art books, but it’s also a stylish gallery with prints, paintings and midcentury ceramics. Come to 9 pedX Shoes (2005 N.E. Alberta St.; 503.460.0760; www.pedxshoes.com) for the chic women’s footwear, but be sure to make room in your luggage for stylish handbags, jewelry and other local and handmade accessories. Still not shopped out? Head to 10 Tumbleweed (1812 N.E. Alberta St.; 503.335.3100; www. tumbleweedboutique.com) for a constantly changing (but reliably hip) selection of locally made dresses and vintage slips. — J.S. at 7 Salt Straw (2035 N.E. Alberta St.; 503.208.3867; www.saltandstraw.com; see p. 17), where ice cream gets the gourmet treatment; blue cheese. Alberta businesses pack in late-night crowds during the monthly Last Thursday (www.lastthursdayonalberta.com; see p. 62) street extravaganza — expect some of Portland’s best people-watching here. NE Ainsworth St For more complete maps, see pages 93-96. From downtown, served by bus lines 8, 17, 70 and 72. More Jarrett St NE details at www.trimet.org. NE Jessup St NE 32nd Pl NE 35th Ave 2 NE Alberta St NE Webster St NE 34th Ave NE Sumner St NE 33rd Ave NE 32nd Ave NE 28th Ave NE 26th Ave NE 25th Ave NE 27th Ave 8 4 NE 31st Ave NE 29th Ave 9 NE 24th Ave NE 23rd Ave NE 21st Ave 7 3 10 NE 22nd Ave NE 20th Ave NE 16th Ave NE Emerson St 1 5 NE 30th Ave NE 25th Ave NE 26th Ave NE 24th Ave NE Jarrett St NE Killingsworth St NE 14th Pl 5 DOC (5519 N.E. 30th Ave.; 503.946.8592; www.docpdx.com), which serves fresh Italian fare in an intimate space. Alberta Park NE 28th kati onion and green chutney. A few blocks north of Alberta, the acclaimed 4 Beast (5425 N.E. 30th Ave.; 503.841.6968; www.beastpdx.com) anchors a NE Simpson St 6 TRAVELPORTLAND.COM The 6 Kennedy School (5736 N.E. 33rd Ave.; 503.249.3983; www.mcmenamins.com) is a 1915 grade school transformed into a comfy and offbeat hotel, complete with a restaurant, movie theater, outdoor soaking pool and no fewer than NE 18th Ave Led by a trio of chefs, 1 Aviary (1733 N.E. Alberta St.; 503.287.2400; www.aviarypdx.com) features inventive small plates like charred octopus with papaya and the signature crispy pig ear and coconut rice. An alternative to Portland’s often meat-centric menus, 2 Natural Selection (3033 N.E. Alberta St.; 503.288.5883; www.naturalselectionpdx.com) offers gourmet vegetarian fare like summer squash frittatas and a delectable chanterelle and potato hash. You 3 Bollywood Theater (2039 N.E. Alberta St.; 971.200.4711; www. bollywoodtheaterpdx.com). Instead, grab a seat and SHOP NE 15th Ave P H OTO G R A P H B Y M AT T W O N G EAT PLAY NE 19th Ave Lined with shops, galleries, restaurants and bars, Northeast Alberta Street erupts into a colorful street fair on the last Thursday of every month. NORTHEAST ALBERTA STREET NE 17th Ave ALBERTA ARTS DISTRICT 41
- 33. NORTH MISSISSIPPI / WILLIAMS North Mississippi Avenue features a long stretch of stores, bars and restaurants. Half a mile away is North Williams Avenue, an up-and-coming trove of eateries and bars. Set in a restored 1940s-era warehouse, 1 Lincoln Restaurant (3808 N. Williams Ave.; 503.288.6200; www.lincolnpdx.com) opens up only for dinner, but what a meal it is — crab fettuccini, grilled octopus, and a standout rib-eye steak with blue-cheese butter and cornmeal onion rings are just a few of the tempting options. In the same building, 2 Tasty n Sons (3808 N. Williams Ave.; 503.621.1400; www.tastynsons.com) serves one of Portland’s most crave-worthy brunches, full of unexpected hits such as seasonal Moroccan chicken hash and Burmese pork stew, both topped with eggs. Don’t miss the sweet biscuits and fresh berries. 3 Mississippi Marketplace (4233 N. Mississippi Ave.; 503.358.7873; www.missmarketplace.com) provides a delicious introduction to Portland’s vaunted food cart scene, with 10 or so mobile vendors serving everything from crêpes to vegan BBQ. Enjoy your grub with a pint at on-site German pub 4 Prost (4237 N. Mississippi Ave.; 503.954.873; prostportland.com). PLAY NORTH MISSISSIPPI AVENUE Many a pedaling commuter has been sidetracked by 5 Bike Bar (3947 N. Williams Ave.; 503.287.6258; www.hopworksbeer.com), thanks to its cycle-themed décor and local organic brews from Hopworks Urban Brewery. Recently opened 6 Interurban (4057 N. Mississippi Ave.; 503.284.6669; www.interurbanpdx.com) feels like a modern take on the classic American saloon; try the Sword Fight, a combination of ginger beer and whiskey. Filling a former Baptist church, 7 Mississippi Studios (3939 N. Mississippi Ave.; 503.288.3895; www.mississippistudios.com) puts on some of the town’s most intimate live shows. The attached 8 BarBar rounds out the evening with a solid draft list and airy patio dining. N Blandena St For more complete maps, see pages 93-96. From downtown, served by bus lines 4 and 44. More details at www.trimet.org. LODEKKA € ƒ v ‰ — „ y “ r • i – † — … ˆ s ‡ t i h r h i † … v q r p h r † v … g N Kerby Ave N Williams Ave N Vancouver Ave N Commercial Ave N Borthwick Ave N Gantenbein Ave N Haight Ave N Mississippi Ave N Albina Ave N Michigan Ave NE Cleveland q p h i r f v … „ i x e x d x t p p ƒ ƒ i ‚ ™ TRAVELPORTLAND.COM N Missouri Ave N Cook St ‘ N Ivy St 42 ’ N Fremont St designed crafts by more than 100 independent artists; an upstairs art gallery hosts rotating monthly shows. You can’t miss 11 Lodekka (N. Williams Ave. at Failing St.; 503.703.3605; www.lodekka.com), a double-decker English bus full of retro clothes, jewelry and accessories to match its own 1965 vintage, from bikinis to skinny ties. — J.S. 2 “ N Beech St 1 € N Failing St ” 5 11 • Denorval Unthank Park – 9 9 The Meadow (3731 N. Mississippi Ave.; 503.288.4633; www.atthemeadow.com) stocks everything you need for a romantic picnic, along with specialty salts from around the world. At 10 Land (3925 N. Mississippi Ave.; 503.451.0689; www.landpdx.com) N Shaver St € 8 7 10 SHOP — 5 N Mason St • 6 N Skidmore St “ 4 3 “ N Going St N Prescott St P H OTO G R A P H L E F T B Y B R U C E F O R S T E R , B E L O W B Y N AT H A N I E L YO U N G EAT h h w ˜ € g h y ’ i “ x ‘ w ‘ h r v u t h p q i s r q p p i h g
- 34. AROUND THE REGION No trip to Portland is complete until you get out of town to eat, play and stay. Find local flavor in wine country, the Columbia River Gorge, Mount Hood or the coast. WASHINGTON COUNTY 48 COLUMBIA RIVER GORGE 50 MT. HOOD TERRITORY 52 MOUNT HOOD 54 COLUMBIA COUNTY 56 YAMHILL VALLEY 58 P H OTO G R A P H B Y DA N T H O R N B E R G 46 OREGON COAST VISTA HOUSE AT CROWN POINT IN THE COLUMBIA RIVER GORGE 45
- 35. ARTS WINE TASTING IN WASHINGTON COUNTY Ripe for the Picking Washington County’s farms and vineyards offer an endless bounty of great taste. 47 Timber 30 Buxton BY BETH COLLINS TRAVELPORTLAND.COM 6 5 Hagg Lake Tu al atin Ri ve North Plains Banks Gl Glenwood r Hillsboro Portland 26 Forest Beaverton Grove Tigard Gaston 8 84 219 47 Tualatin Sherwood 99W Wi l l am ette Riv er 5 miles 18 46 10 km Y ou’ll have to forgive residents of Washington County if they can’t help but smile when they hear about the farm-to-table craze in the rest of the country. In this sliver of the Willamette Valley, just 20 minutes west of downtown Portland, farm-to-table isn’t a trend, it’s a way of life — and has been for years. The most bustling example is undoubtedly the Beaverton Farmers Market (S.W. Hall Boulevard between Third and Fifth streets, Beaverton; 503.643.5345, www.beavertonfarmersmarket. com; Sat., May-Nov.; Wed., June-Nov.). What began as a social gathering of 12 stalls in 1988 has blossomed to 160 vendors, making it the largest market of its kind in the state. Saturdays take on a festival vibe, with as many as 22,000 people strolling the stands for a remarkable variety of produce, take in the live 22 For more information on Washington County, visit www.oregonswashingtoncounty.com. P H OTO G R A P H A B OV E A N D TO P R I G H T B Y R I C K S C H A F E R , OT H E R P H OTO G R A P H S C O U R T E S Y W A S H I N G TO N C O U N T Y V I S I TO R S A S S O C I AT I O N washington county
- 36. music and fill up on steaming tamales, seasonal crêpes and breakfast sandwiches. To get even closer to the source, head 10 miles southwest to Smith Berry Barn (24500 S.W. Scholls Ferry Road, Hillsboro; 503.628.2172; www.smithberrybarn.com). Behind a storybook-like big red barn, the family-run U-pick farm grows 10 types of berries (the pineapple-sweet golden raspberries alone are worth a trip) and some 20 varieties of apples. Round out your harvest inside at the Garden Market and Gourmet Gift Shop, where you can sip coffee — or better yet, a milkshake — while browsing for produce, local raw honey SMITH BERRY BARN and herb starts. Washington County wineries offer their own twist on farm-to-table — call it farm-to-bottle. Start your sipping at photo-shoot-worthy backdrop. Ardiri Vineyards (35040 S.W. Unger Oak Knoll Winery Road, Cornelius; 503.628.6060; www. 29700 S.W. Burkhalter Road, Hillsboro; ardiriwine.com), which farms a petite 15-acre vineyard in the Burgundian style, 503.648.8198; www.oakknollwinery.com with vines packed tightly together. The close quarters result in grapes and wines s r q l o n m l k j t v u ‚ † w } … „ } z y ‚ { ‚ w ƒ { y { ‚ € ~ } z y | { z y x w v Œ ‹ Hall Street Grill High-quality steaks, seafood and seasonal produce restaurant with an attractive outdoor patio. 3775 S.W. Hall Blvd., Beaverton; 503.641.6161; www.hallstreetgrill.com PLAY Tree to Tree Adventure Park Channel your inner Tarzan, playing in tree limbs on platforms, bridges and zip lines up to 60 feet off the ground. Open March-Nov. 2975 S.W. Nelson Rd., Gaston; 503.375.0109; www.tree2tree adventurepark.com TREE TO TREE ADVENTURE PARK ‚ w Œ ƒ Š „ { z ‹ z y | ‚ … y { ‚ Ž Š { } { … ‚ w } { ‰ w y Š ˆ ‡ … { Š ’ w ‘ { Ž ‚ ƒ { } Œ w w ‡ Š ~ y y } ‚ Broadway Rose Theatre Company Oregon’s largest Š ‚ ‹ { ‹ } y } ‚ ‚ … £ € € w z € ~ ‚ † y } ~ { w } | Š ‚ y { v Ÿ † Œ y w w ž ‚ ‚ y ˜ } › œ ” x › ~ w š ™ } ˜ • ¡ y — Š y … – { v Š { | v { € • ” Ÿ “ … | Š y y ‚ ~ Ž w z v } ¢ | y Œ Š ˆ z y € { † { € y € x z } | w † ƒ ‚ { ‹ } } Œ x w † ‚ ~ w } BEAVERTON FARMERS MARKET that are bursting with flavor. (Ardiri also has vineyards in Napa Valley, so you’ll get the added bonus of doing side-by-side comparisons of Pinot noirs from Oregon and from our neighbor to the south.) An afternoon tasting here can easily stretch to the early evening, thanks to what’s arguably the valley’s best patio: Cushy chairs surround a custom-built fire pit, with the forested Chehalem foothills as a Chennai Masala Don’t let the strip-mall setting fool you; the authentic Southern Indian dishes and unique Medu Vada starter are not to be missed. 2088 Stucki Ave., Hillsboro; 503.531.9500; www.chennaimasala.net Set high in the hills above Beaverton, Cooper Mountain Vineyards (20100 S.W. Leonardo Lane, Beaverton; 503.649.0027; www.coopermountainwine.com) naturally stands out. Cooper Mountain holds the distinction of being the first biodynamic winery in the Northwest, using organic, sustainable methods to produce wine. A trip to the tasting room is a crash course in wine-speak, as pourers detail not just the flavor notes of the vino but also the soil’s terroir. Also up for discussion: leaving with a bottle of the citrusy Old Vines Pinot gris or the red-fruit spice of the Life Pinot noir. (Answer: Buy both.) Pairing the valley’s great wine with equally tasty produce is a specialty for Decarli Restaurant (4545 S.W. Watson Ave., Beaverton; 503.641.3223; www. decarlirestaurant.com), in downtown Beaverton. The seasonally inspired menu reads like a glossary of Northwest bounty: all varieties of salmon, berry everything in the summer, foraged chanterelle mushrooms in the fall. As you sip your libation of choice and savor a Fanny Bay oyster with Prosecco mignonette, you’ll have no doubts about the lasting appeal of farm-to-table. theater company entertains audiences with Broadway musicals, comedies and revues. 12850 S.W. Grant Ave.; 503.620.5262; www.broadwayrose.org Tualatin River National Wildlife Refuge Along seasonal and year-round 275 species of wildlife and a huge www.fws.gov/tualatinriver STAY The Orenco Hotel Situated in the Orenco Station neighborhood — a pedestrian-friendly take on a planned suburban town center — this luxury boutique hotel channels a Bostonian brownstone. 1457 N.E. Orenco Station Parkway, Hillsboro; 503.208.5708; www.theorenco.com TRAVELPORTLAND.COM p Farm-to-table isn’t a trend, it’s a way of life — and has been for years. EAT L.L. “Stub” Stewart State Park Along with trails for hiking, biking and horseback riding, picnic facilities and even disc golf, this park offers tent and RV camping, as well as rustic cabins. 30380 Highway 47, Buxton; 503.986.0707; www. oregonstateparks.org/park_255.php 47
- 37. ARTS columbia river gorge View to A a Brew long the banks of the great, wide Columbia River, no traveler should miss the soaring cliffs, the dramatic waterfall hikes — or the growing number of hardworking brewers making some of the tastiest trail-ending beers imaginable. Grab your favorite designated driver and take in the outstanding beauty of the Columbia River Gorge National Scenic Area, enjoying access along the way to five outstanding brewpubs — all within 60 breathtaking miles of Portland. Twenty minutes from downtown, McMenamins Edgefield (2126 S.W. Halsey St., Troutdale; 503.669.8610; www. mcmenamins.com) is the crown jewel of the local brothers’ empire of hotels and brewpubs located in character-filled, historic properties. Set on 74 acres, Edgefield repurposes a onetime county poor farm into a veritable good-time kingdom with a brewery, distillery, “pitch and putt” golf course, vineyard, hotel, spa, outdoor concert venue and, of course, scores of taps scattered all over the property. Try a Hammerhead, a classic hoppy pale ale, or a Ruby, which is infused with Oregon-grown raspberries. TRAVELPORTLAND.COM The Columbia River Gorge offers first-rate scenery along with a blossoming beer industry. BY TOM COLLIGAN 0 25 miles 25 km 0 5 WASHINGTON Colu m b i a R iv Portland 205 Bingen Hood River 14 Cascade Locks 84 er 35 The Dalles OREGON Multnomah Falls Troutdale 48 Hood River White Salmon Bridge Stevenson Bridge of the Gods 26 For more information on the Columbia River Gorge, visit www.mthoodcolumbiagorge.com. Ã Ã Å Ç ¶ Æ Å Ä ¶ Ã Â Á ¶ ¹ À ± ¿ Ç º µ Ã ² Å « Æ ¼ 216 P H OTO G R A P H A B OV E B Y E R I N T E G E L E R , TO P R I G H T B Y L I Z D E V I N E , FA R R I G H T COURTESY RIVERSIDE, BELOW RIGHT COURTESY FULL SAIL BREWERY THE TAPROOM AT PFRIEM FAMILY BREWERS Ç » ¾ ª ½ ¯ Ð ® ² Ï « ¼ · » ± ¬ ² · ® ² ¼ ± » Î ¬ ® « ² Í ± » · º « ´ Ì ´ Ë ´ ¯ ¹ ¹ « ¸ · Ê ® ® ³ É ¶ È ® µ Â « Ã ´ Á ³ Á ® ² ± ° ¯ ® ¬ « ª © ¨ § § ¦ ¥ ¤
- 38. EAT Riverside Locally sourced rib-eye expansive wine list come paired with incredible river and gorge views. 1108 E. Marina Way, Hood River; 800.828.7873; www.hoodriverinn.com JERRY’S ICE HOUSE AT EDGEFIELD to bottle its beers. Specializing in quaffable “session beers,” Full Sail’s thriving pub anchors one of the best beer towns in the West. Try the malty, fruity signature Amber, or the gold-medal-winning Session Black Lager, and keep an eye out for small-batch Brewer’s Share beers — made each year at the whim of individual brewers. Just down the street, Double Mountain Brewery Taproom (8 Fourth St., Hood River; 541.387.0042; www.doublemountain brewery.com) opened its doors in 2007. The airy taproom feels like a favorite café, but one that pours exceptionally balanced, long-aged ales. Double Mountain also excels at producing one of beer’s greatest companions: terrific pizza. Enjoy a pipinghot pie with a hoppy pale ale or local favorite IRA — a unique India Red Ale. Across the highway from downtown awaits one of the state’s newest brewpubs, Pfriem Family Brewers (707 Portway Ave., Suite 101, Hood River; 541.321.0490; www. pfriembeer.com). Opened in 2012 by Josh Pfriem (pronounced “Freem”), a former Full Sail star, this glittering new brewery has rapidly won over savvy locals with its exceptional Belgian-style beers. The glasses here are footed, and specials like pork schnitzel and the potato salad are better than they have to be. Enjoy a Belgian Strong Blonde at one of the long communal tables, or step outside, grab a bench and savor the bouquet of pear and clove in your glass as you watch a colorful armada of kiteboarders harness the waves of the wind-churned Columbia. Savor the bouquet of pear and clove in your glass as you watch a colorful armada of kiteboarders harness the waves of the windchurned Columbia. beer” made in the fashion of the original West Coast beers from the days before refrigeration. Out back, take in a gorgeous panorama of snow-clad Mount Hood. Heading back across the Columbia, suds samplers will find themselves in Hood River, a cornerstone of Oregon’s beer culture. Way back in 1987, Full Sail Brewery (506 Columbia St., Hood River; 541.386.2247; www. fullsailbrewing.com) took root in a former fruit cannery by the river and became the first craft brewery in Oregon Celilo This downtown favorite offers up regional and sustainable fare like Willapa Bay oysters, panshoulder with house-made pasta. 16 Oak St., Hood River; 541.386.5710; www.celilorestaruant.com RIVERSIDE STAY Columbia Cliff Villas This 37-unit boutique hotel boasts views of lush gardens and Mount Adams. 3880 Westcliffe Drive, Hood River; 541.436.2660; www.columbiacliff villas.com villa columbia Craftsman-style bed and breakfast is just two blocks from the breweries and restaurants of downtown Hood River. 902 Oak St., Hood River; 541.386.6670; www.villacolumbia.com PLAY Multnomah Falls Take a photoop at the state’s tallest cascade. Framed by a stone footbridge, this waterfall tumbles 620 feet down a sheer basalt cliff. A paved trail leads up to an impressive viewpoint. I-84, exit 31; www.multnomahfallslodge.com TRAVELPORTLAND.COM From the town of Cascade Locks, cross over the jaw-dropping Bridge of the Gods into Washington to sample the delightfully low-key Walking Man Brewing (240 S.W. First St., Stevenson, Wash.; 509.427.5520). Set in the windsurfing hub of Stevenson, Walking Man has kept its chalkboard beer list updated with award-winning, full-flavored beers since 1999. Order up a plate of the excellent steelhead tacos and try the bracingly bitter imperial IPA or the unusual, full-bodied black cherry stout. To sample a newer Washington standout, continue east on State Route 14, turn north in Bingen and take Highway 141 up the hill to the town of White Salmon, home to Everybody’s Brewing (151 E. Jewett Blvd., White Salmon, Wash.; 509.637.2774; www.everybodysbrewing. com). Inside, a large Douglas fir bar invites beer lovers to browse house favorites like Country Boy IPA and the bright coppercolored Daily Bread Common Ale, a “steam Big Winds A sheltered, private lagoon accessed by Big Winds’ guides provides an ideal setting for newbies kiteboarding wings. 207 Front St., Hood River; 541.386.6086; www.bigwinds.com 49
- 39. ARTS OREGON CITY’S WILLAMETTE FALLS, WITH MOUNT HOOD IN THE BACKGROUND BY BRIAN BARKER O Portland Lake Oswego Milwaukie Clackamas West Linn Oregon City Wi Wilsonville Sandy Ri on Estacada Rhododendron a nd S am ck la m e t t e Cla Wi l Canby as R i ve r 5 miles 50 The former capital of the Oregon Territory, Oregon City is a historical delight. Cascade Locks v er TRAVELPORTLAND.COM Heritage Heights Molalla 10 km y Ri ve r regon City boasts an impressive list of “firsts”: first incorporated city west of the Rocky Mountains (1844), Oregon’s first capital (before it was even a state) and the country’s first long-distance electric line (Willamette Falls to Portland, 1889). But it’s actually Oregon City’s last place status that fascinates many modern-day visitors: Located just 15 miles southeast of Portland, alongside the Willamette River and a dramatic, tiered waterfall, Oregon City served as the final wagon stop on the fabled Oregon Trail. And today, thanks to its rich history and recent historic restoration projects, Oregon City remains as much a destination as ever. At the north end of town, the End of the Oregon Trail Mou Interpretive Center (1726 Washington St., Oregon City; Mount Hood Nat National F 503.657.9336; www.historicoregoncity.org) provides an excellent glimpse of life along the historic route. Evoking three giant For more information on Oregon’s Mt. Hood Territory, visit www.mthoodterritory.com. P H O T O G R A P H A B O V E B Y B R I A N J . R O C K W E L L , B E L O W R I G H T C O U R T E S Y M T. H O O D T E R R I T O R Y, A B O V E R I G H T B Y C U R T I S P E R R Y, B E L O W F A R R I G H T C O U R T E S Y S W E D I S H S T U G A MT. HOOD TERRITORY