Industrial Research Document

INDUSTRIAL RESEARCH 2012
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COMPANY PROFILE -
Company Name: K.R. Apparel
Description of your Company: Manufacturers and distributors of readymade shirts and trousers
Mission: to launch a line conducive to the demands of the Mumbai markets
Introduction:
History: established in 1979
Management (Key Members):Mr. Pathik Shah
Employees Number & Skills:
Office Location:
Branch Locations (if any):
Registered Certifications:
Major Products & Services: Readymade formal and casual shirts and readymade formal trousers
Specialization: range of wedding shirts for the southern market
Append Images/Photographs:
Areas Served:
Turnover & other Financial Info: 15 crores in 2011 (growth of approx. 20% p.a)
Awards:
Clientele:
Success Stories:
References:
Website URL:

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INTRODUCTION TO K. R. APPARELS -
K.R. Apparels – The company came into existent during the year 1979 with its founder being MR. THIS
company at the present date has successfully into its 33rd year with Mr. Pathik Shah heading the company
now. Their office is located AT in kandivali west.
Their main products are shirts, both formal and semi formal and trousers. K.R. apparels main market
being South India their designs are more conducive and suited to the climate and choice of the people in
South India(Kerala).
K.R. apparel offers a wide range of products to their customers while maintaining the motto of delivering
the best and keeping it simple and basic. They market their shirts under the different labels like - “Club
Class”, “Personal”, “Emperor” , “Kalyanam”,” Shreshtam”, “Mascot” and “Urbano”. Out of the above
mentioned brands “Club Class”, “Personal”, “Emperor” are a part of their economic range and are priced
relatively lower than “Mascot” and “Urbano” which are their premium brands. “Kalyanam” and
“Shreshtam” are their labels for cream coloured silk shirts used for special occasion like a festival or
marriage in South India (Kerala).

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K.R. Apparels PRODUCTION UNIT IS SITUATED AT . and they produce about 2500 pieces a day.
The production takes place both ways in-house and also job working (out sourcing) to meet the ever
increasing demands and to keep pace with the orders pouring in. The material that is most generally used
is “Polycot” since it is most preferred by the end consumers in South India. Their products are modestly
priced between the ranges of 500 – 800. When the company started out in 1979 their annual turnover was
Rs. 10 Lacs while today it has increased manifolds with the persistent hard work and dedication to Rs. 15
crores per annum. The company has recorded a very steady growth of 20% per annum over the past year.
Since Kerala is a state with the population of different communities residing together there are various
selling periods during the period of a year. The major selling periods would be the festivals like Eid,
Chirstmas, Onam, Diwali and the Wedding seasons.
Kerala is a very traditional and conservative market, the consumers like to wear and repurchase clothing
they feel comfortable in. Therefore, the shirts and trousers manufactured for the market in South India are
generally a regular fit with the shirts having a straight cut hem. The consumers in Kerala prefer to wear
dark colours and avoid wearing pattern like gingham checks or glen checks as they find it too gaudy for
their taste. They prefer to wear simple striped shirts and do not like much variation in the type and
thickness of stripes either. They wear full sleeved shirts most of the times.
K.R. Apparel advertises their menswear producing company in a women’s magazine in Kerala since in
Kerala it is a rampant belief that women handle all household chores and look after the need of the
family. They place their advertisement in magazines like “Vanitha”, “Grahlakshmi” and “Mahilaratnam”.
PURPOSE/OBJECTIVE OF STUDY
BACKGROUND OF THE PROBLEM:
K. R. Apparel is a Mumbai based Apparel manufacturing company which supplies their finished product
to South India. They now plan to launch their apparel brands in Mumbai.
TITLE:
Exploring new opportunities and avenues for the Mumbai menswear sector design by a Mumbai
based
South supplying company

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OBJECTIVE:
The objective of our study is to design a new collection for K. R. Apparels to launch in the megacity of -
Mumbai.
CONCEPTUAL MODEL:
i. To survey the markets of Mumbai to understand and know their preferences.
ii. To study the current trends and predictions from various agencies across the world for the season
of spring/summer 2012
iii. To also study the designing styles at K. R. Apparels.
iv. Our objective in this study will be to be a helping hand in a successful launch of K. R. Apparels
in the highly competitive Mumbai market and
v. To design a collection which would suit and be preferred by the end consumers in Mumbai.
METHODOLOGY
It has been rightly said by Sir Arthur Conan Doyle (Sherlock Holmes) that ‘it is a capital mistake
to theorize before one has data’
Once a research question has been agreed upon, a research design is formulated which includes an
appropriate and effective method for collecting data.
Our study involved Data sourcing from varied sources ranging right from the proprietor of K.R. Apparels
to scavenging across the internet for studies related to Menswear sales and future predictions for sales and
designs.
Our instrument for the collection of Primary Data collection was the survey research and also
behavioral research. Wherein, we had two different sets of questions for the general people or the
sample size and a separate questionnaire for the managers of retail outlets both single outlets and
chain brands.
The questionnaire for the general people had about 30 questions regarding their personal choice
of colors, fits and different patterns. There were also questions which would tell us what the end
consumer thought lacked in the currently available clothing options and what more they would
like to see in the upcoming seasons.

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The questionnaire for the managers at the brand outlets contained questions about the
specialization of their brand. It helped us to understand what is in vogue at the point and what is
slowly fading out of fashion. There were also questions regarding the fits, the colors, the styles
and patterns men preferred in their clothing.
The sample size that we jointly agreed upon was 300 – 350. Out of this about 100 general
questionnaires were filled online by the men in Mumbai. The rest were personally interviewed and
asked about their preferences by each member of the group, each member interviewing about 50
odd consumers. These interviews were carried out informally either at a mall like infinity
(andheri), raghuleela (kandivali) and palladium (high street phoenix) or at the food courts or
coffee shops across the town.

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The managers were surveyed at their respective brand outlets during the specified time they
allotted us for filling up the questionnaire and discussing the menswear market with them.

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We went through the websites providing the history of the textile industry and the menswear
apparel industry. We researched about the usage of the kind of fabric which was preferred across
the country. Also, we found statistics regarding the increasing awareness of fashion among the
men of the 21st century as compared to the earlier generations. We found that men today want to
look good and groom themselves to look their best for most occasions and even generally. We

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went through the menswear magazines of previous years to spot trends and understand the
requirements of the menswear markets. We went through magazines like GQ, Menswear and
Esquire to jot down the color combinations, the themes and pattern for menswear collections. We
also had a meeting with the proprietor of K. R. Apparels and jotted down points about the history
and their experiences in the market of South India (Kerala). We also collected information about
how the shirt was made in a bulk order, and modified our designs accordingly to smooth
production of the same.

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REVIEW OF LITERATURE
GARMENT MANUFACTURING
Garment manufacturers are primarily engaged in the design, cutting and sewing of garments from fabric.
Some manufacturers are contractors or subcontractors, which generally manufacture apparel from
materials owned by other firms. Larger manufacturers often contract production to many such contractors
or subcontractors in the U.S. and abroad. Some manufacturers are vertically integrated, producing the
textiles from which they make garments, or even operating retail outlets too.
HISTORY OF GARMENT INDUSTRY
First sewing machine was invented in the Victorian era, after the development of machine elite class use
to have a seamstress who stitched the clothes for them on sewing machine. Before sewing machines
everything was done by hand. The seamstresses went to the home of the woman who wanted to stitch the
clothes. As industrial revolution started in the 19th century, garment industrytoo began to evolve but it
was in its infancy and had no developed system for garment manufacturing. Seamstresses observed that
they can develop standard patterns which can fit more than one woman. They developed a mathematical
sizing system to accommodate most women with very few patterns. As businessmen, interested in
lowering costs, they continued developing these patterns to become paper “information systems”
engineered to control quantities of exact reproductions in cutting and stitching clothing in mass
production systems.
The apparel industry grew from these tailors/businessmen, as they built manufacturing factories for
production, which pattern engineering accommodated. Pattern engineering grew a great industry in the
early and mid-20th century. Pattern making was first taught to “apprentices” who were called
“designers”. Creative designers of styles didn’t exist in the early 20th century. Paris was center of the
developments in style and creation in garments at that time and many other countries copied from there.
Later designers created booklets for teaching the pattern making systems mathematically – that came to
be called “pattern drafting”. One dis-advantage of mass production was that designers put little effort in
bringing new designs and patterns but they either copied or else made very little changes. Even today the
readymade garment industry does not bring too many new ideas in the products rather it is creating mass
garments to reduce cost. Garment industry has developed many new and time saving techniques,

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processes and machinery for the effective production today. The most important is the CAD/CAM which
enables the designer, pattern maker, marker and grader to do their jobs precisely and effectively.
STEP-BY-STEP OF GARMENT CONSTRUCTION
Garment Sketch
Pattern Design

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Pattern Grading
Pattern Marking

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ORGANIZATIONAL AREAS IN GARMENT MANUFACTURING
On industrial basis there are certain areas or sequence through which garments are manufactured.
Design / Sketch:
In the garment manufacturing the first step is designing the sketch for the dresses that have to be
prepared. For this purpose the designer first draw several rough sketches in the sketch book. The designer
does not go for details at this moment but he rather let his creativity flow on the paper and he draws many
sketches. Later these sketches are analyzed by a panel of designers. They finally select few out of them.
These few sketches are rendered in detail separately or in the form of a single collection. The designer
also draws working drawings along with the sketch. Working drawings are flat drawing of the sketch and
it help pattern maker in understanding the patterns involved in the construction.
Pattern Design:
The pattern maker now develop first pattern for the designsin any one standard size. This is made by
pattern drafting method and the purpose of making this pattern is to create the sample garment for test fit.
Sample Making:
The first patterns are sent to the sewing unit for assembling them into garment. This is usually stitched on
calico or muslin which is an inferior quality of fabric and it reduces cost. This sample is constructed to
analyze the pattern fit and design too. After the sample garment is stitched it is reviewed by a panel of
designers, pattern makers and sewing specialists. If any changes have to be made they are made at this
time.
Production Pattern:
The pattern design is now taken for creating the production patterns. The production pattern is one which
will be used for huge production of garments. The pattern maker makes the patterns on standard pattern
making paper. These papers are made-up of various grades. The most important component, the tissue
paper pattern, is made from the lightest and thinnest paper commercially available (it is not made at the
pattern companies). It is called 7.5 lb (3.4 kg) basis paper, meaning that a ream of it (500 sheets) only
weighs 7.5 lb (3.4 kg).

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Garment patterns can be constructed by two means: manual method, CAD/CAM method. Today many
companies have developed CAD/CAM because of the ease of designing patterns, fluency and precision
involved which cannot be guaranteed with the manual method. Investing once into the CAD/CAM unit is
worth in itself. Many buyers around the world prefer manufacturers who are using CAD/CAM methods.
The production patterns created in CAD/CAM can be stored easily and they can be modified at any point
of time.
A garment sewing pattern or garment fabric & patterns draft is developed by calculating, taking account
of the following measurements: -
1. Direct Sample.
2. Specification Sheet/ Measurement Chart.
3. Actual body size measurements.
4. Ease Allowances.
5. Sewing Allowance.
These allowances are different for different type of fabrics and patterns.
Grading
The purpose of grading is to create patterns in different standard sizes. Grading a pattern is really scaling
a pattern up or down in order to adjust it for multiple sizes. Pattern sizes can be large, medium and small
or else there are standard patterns of size 10, 12, 14, 16 and so on for different figure and statures sizes.
This is generally how we get S M L XL XXL sizing. Pattern grading by manual method is a cumbersome
task because the grader has to alter the pattern on each and every point from armhole, to neckline, sleeve
cap and wrist etc. by using CAD it is much easier and faster.
Pattern Grading
Patterns initially are made in only one size. In order to produce clothing that fits various body types and
sizes, the pattern pieces must be increased or decreased geometrically to create a complete range of sizes.
The process of resizing the initial pattern is called "grading." Each company determines its own grade
specifications for each size, and size specifications vary slightly from manufacturer to manufacturer.
Although many small firms still use traditional grading methods, grading, like patternmaking, is
becoming increasingly computerized. Using a CAD system, the pattern can be resized according to a
predetermined table of sizing increments (or "grade rules"). The computerized plotter can then print out

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the pattern in each size. Because the productivity gains are so great, small to medium-sized manufacturers
are beginning to acquire their own CAD systems for grading.
Alternatively, they may use an outside grading service to perform this function
Shrinkage Incorporation in Pattern Grading
Grading and shrinkage incorporation in a pattern is very important and plays a big role in not only getting
correct fit and drape of a garment but also measurements as graded specs. Pattern grading is a technique
of scaling a pattern to reproduce a pattern in other sizes. It must be done accurately. To properly fit a
pattern to a range of sizes, each pattern piece needed to be graded, or systematically increased or
decreased. The purpose of grading is to proportionally increase or decrease the size of a pattern, while
maintaining shape, fit, balance and scale of style details. It’s important to remember that grading only
makes a shape larger or smaller and isn’t intended to change a shape. Grading also reflects the fact that
individuals of different sized are proportionately different, not uniformly different.
Stacking or “0” point for grading
For grading it is important to have stack point which will define the “x” or “y” grading of pattern. It is
defined as “0” point located at the centre of the pattern of a Front, back or sleeve panel. For centre front it
is perpendicular to the centre of check line. For sleeve the “0” point is centre of sleeve at the bicep line.
Length Grade
 Front and back neck drop is applied to shoulder neck point. Shoulder line should remain parallel
between sizes.
 Body length is distributed between the shoulder neck point and the bottom. Grading is divided
between shoulder/beck point, neck drop, armhole, waist, hip and bottom. Body length combined
grading is total of centre front length and neck drop.
 Neck width is applied at the shoulder neck point it is always parallel to check line.
 Armhole curve is combined measurement of armhole width and armhole height grade
Marker Making:
The measuring department determines the fabric yardage needed for each style and size of garment.
Computer software helps the technicians create the optimum fabric layout to suggest so fabric can be used

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efficiently. Markers, made in accordance to the patterns are attached to the fabric with the help of
adhesive stripping or staples. Markers are laid in such a way so that minimum possible fabric gets wasted
during cutting operation. After marking the garment manufacturer will get the idea of how much fabric he
has to order in advance for the construction of garments. Therefore careful execution is important in this
step.
Pattern Markings
Once the pattern is graded, the fabric must be prepared for cutting. In order to spread the fabric properly,
the spreader must know how the pattern pieces will be placed on the fabric. "Marking" refers to the
process of placing pattern pieces to maximize the number of patterns that can be cut out of a given piece
of fabric. Firms strive for "tight" markers largely because fabric is one of a manufacturer's most
significant business costs, often exceeding the cost of labor. Although markers can be made by hand or
using CAD software, the computerized method is up to eight times faster. Once a marker is completed, a
CAD system can use a plotter to print a full size layout on a long sheet of paper. This layout becomes the
guide for the cutter.
Computer software helps the technicians create the optimum fabric layout to suggest so fabric can be used
efficiently. Markers, made in accordance to the patterns are attached to the fabric with the help of
adhesive stripping or staples. Markers are laid in such a way so that minimum possible fabric gets wasted
during cutting operation. After marking the garment manufacturer will get the idea of how much fabric he
has to order in advance for the construction of garments. Therefore careful execution is important in this
step.
Computer marking is done on speciallized softwares. In computerized marking there is no need of large
paper sheets for calculating the yardage, in fact, mathematical calculations are made instead to know how
much fabric is required.
Not every marking is on every pattern because some are specific to a certain style or construction
technique. Layout and cutting markings don't need to be transferred to the fabric. Construction markings,
on the other hand, are very helpful during the sewing process and transferring them to the fabric is a good
idea.
Layout Markings

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Grainline: This heavy, solid line with arrows at both ends is usually in the center of the pattern, although
it can appear anywhere within the pattern piece. Use it to ensure the pattern is positioned along the
straight grain of the fabric, so that the garment or project hangs properly. Unless otherwise indicated, pin
the pattern piece so the grainline is parallel to the fabric selvage.
Place on Fold Bracket: This solid line with arrows that point to the pattern piece edge, indicates that the
piece should be positioned along the fabric fold. This usually applies to garments that do not have a center
front or center back seam.
Notches: Diamond or trapezoidal shaped symbols along the seamline are used both in pattern layout and
during construction. When you are laying out the pattern pieces to match a plaid, stripe or large design,
position adjoining notches so that the fabric at the seamlines (not the cutting lines) will match when the
seams are sewn.
Cutting Markings
Cutting Line (single size): The outer line of the pattern piece provides a guide for cutting the fabric. The
line sometimes has an illustration of tiny scissors on it.
Cutting line (multi-size): Multi-size patterns have several sizes printed on the same tissue and are sold in
one envelope. Sometimes the multiple cutting lines are all solid, in which case it helps to highlight your
size before cutting, and sometimes each cutting line is a slightly different line configuration.
Cutting line within the body of the pattern: When the design has a shorter view, there is often a cutting
line for the shorter length within the pattern.
Computer marking is done on speciallized softwares. In computerized marking there is no need of large
paper sheets for calculating the yardage, in fact, mathematical calculations are made instead to know how
much fabric is required.
Spreading:

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With the help of spreading machines, fabric is stacked on one another in reaches or lays that may go over
100 ft (30.5 m) long and hundreds of plies (fabric pieces) thick.
Spreading - layering the fabrics
Fabric spreading is very important part of the production process because it is basic for obtaining a high
quality final product. Spreading is the process of unwinding large rolls of fabric onto long, wide tables in
preparation for cutting each piece of a garment. The number of layers of fabric is dictated by the number
of garments desired and the fabric thickness. Fabric Spreading Machines are used for bulk production.
Spreading or Laying
Spreading is the process of unwinding large rolls of fabric onto long, wide tables in preparation for
cutting each piece of a garment. The number of layers of fabric is dictated by the number of garments
desired and the fabric thickness. Spreading can be done by hand or machine. Depending upon the fabric
and cutting technology, up to 200 layers of fabric may be cut at one time. Fabrics that are more difficult
to handle are generally cut in thinner stacks.
Spreading and cutting is smooth laying out of fabric in superimposed layers or piles of specified length.
The cutting marker is laid on the topmost layer. The maximum cutting width is the usable fabric width
minus selvedge or needle marks caused by stencil marks. Fabric utilization is the amount of fabric
actually utilized in the marker as the percentage of the total fabric area

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Forms of Spreading
One Way Cutting is when fabric is laid the same way up with grain or print pattern running in the same
direction. Fabric has to be cut at the end of each ply.
Fact to Face Cutting is when the plies are laid in pairs face to face. The grain or pattern runs in the same
direction.
Two Way Cutting is when plies are laid continuously from left to right and right to left without cutting at
the end. Most Efficient method of spreading. Cannot be used with grain restrictions or one directional
printed fabric.
Presentation of Fabrics
Presentation depends on type of materials, their application. Generally fabrics are Open width (rolled),
Doubled (wound) and Tubular (plaited)
Cutting:
The fabric is then cut with the help of cloth cutting machines suitable for the type of the cloth. These can
be band cutters having similar work method like that of band saws; cutters having rotary blades; machines
having reciprocal blades which saw up and down; die clickers similar to die or punch press; or
computerized machines that use either blades or laser beams to cut the fabric in desired shapes.
Cutting fabrics
Once the marker is made, pattern pieces must be cut out of the specified fabric, a process called "cutting."
Currently, several cutting techniques exist, ranging from low- to high-tech. Although scissors are used
very rarely-only when working with very small batches or sensitive fabrics-cutting continues to be done
by hand, particularly in many lower volume establishments. Here, cutters guide electric cutting machines
around the perimeter of pattern pieces, cutting through the fabric stack. An electric drill may be used to
make pattern notches. The accuracy and efficiency of this system is considerably less than in
computerized cutting systems.
Computerized cutting systems are achieving more widespread use as technology costs decrease and labor
costs rise. These computer-driven automated cutters utilize vacuum technology to hold stacks of fabric in
place while cutting. Cutting blades are sharpened automatically based upon the type of fabric being cut.
Gerber Garment Technology manufactures one of the most commonly used cutting systems. This

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technology has the advantage of being highly accurate and fast, but does cost considerably more than
other cutting techniques.
Types of Cutting
Fully manual:
 Hand operated scissor
Manually operated power knife:
 Straight knife

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 Band knife
 Round knife
 Die cutting
 Notcher
 Drill
Computerized methods of fabric cutting:
 Computer controlled knife cutting
 Cutting by Laser beam
 Cutting by Water jet
 Cutting by Plasma torch
Sorting/Bundling:
The sorter sorts the patterns according to size and design and makes bundles of them. This step requires
much precision because making bundles of mismatched patterns can create severe problems. On each
bundle there are specifications of the style size and the marker too is attached with it.
Sewing/Assembling:
The sorted bundles of fabrics are now ready to be stitched. Large garment manufacturers have their own
sewing units other use to give the fabrics on contract to other contractors. Stitching in-house is preferable
because one can maintain quality control during the processing. On the other hand if contractors are hired
keeping eye on quality is difficult unless the contactor is one who precisely controls the process.
There are what is called sewing stations for sewing different parts of the cut pieces. In this workplace,
there are many operators who perform a single operation. One operator may make only straight seams,
while another may make sleeve insets. Yet another two operators can sew the waist seams, and make

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buttonholes. Various industrial sewing machines too have different types of stitches that they can make.
These machines also have different configuration of the frame. Some machines work sequentially and
feed their finished step directly into the next machine, while the gang machines have multiple machines
performing the same operation supervised by a single operator. All these factors decide what parts of a
garment can be sewn at that station. Finally, the sewn parts of the garment, such as sleeves or pant legs,
are assembled together to give the final form to the clothing.
 Inspection:
Open seams, wrong stitching techniques, non- matching threads, and missing stitches, improper creasing
of the garment, erroneous thread tension and raw edges are some of the sewing defects which can affect
the garment quality adversely. During processing the quality control section needs to check each prepared
article against these defects.
 Pressing/ Finishing:
The next operations are those of finishing and/or decorating. Molding may be done to change the finished
surface of the garment by applying pressure, heat, moisture, or certain other combination. Pressing,
pleating and creasing are the basic molding processes. Creasing is mostly done before other finishing
processes like that of stitching a cuff. Creasing is also done before decorating the garment with something
like a pocket, appliqués, embroidered emblems etc.
Vertical and form presses is automated machines. Perform simple pressing operations, such as touching
up wrinkles in knit shirts, around embroidery and snaps, and at difficult-to-reach places on garments.
Dyeing and Washing
For some garments, dyeing is done after final assembly in order to ensure a perfect colour match for items
intended to be worn together. In jeans manufacturing, washing is often a final stage in finishing in which

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various washing techniques are used to give denim a ‘stonewashed’ look, or faded, bleached, and aged
appearances.
 Final Inspection:
For the textile and apparel industry, product quality is calculated in terms of quality and standard of
fibers, yarns, fabric construction, color fastness, designs and the final finished garments. Quality
control in terms of garment manufacturing, pre-sales and posts sales service, delivery, pricing, etc are
essential for any garment manufacturer, trader or exporter. Certain quality related problems, often
seen in garment manufacturing like sewing, color, sizing, or garment defects should never be over
looked.
 Types of Inspections
Pre-Production Inspection: This is done before production starts. It is done to crosscheck for final
verification of Bulk fabric and trims materials, styling cutting way, manufacturing details and
workmanship of the garment or pre-production sample as per the customer requirement.
1st inline production inspection: This inspection is done at the start of production when first production
output of particular style of garments is inspected; to distinguish possible discrepancies or variation and to
do necessary corrections to be made bulk production. This type of inspection is done at preliminary stage
of manufacturing of a style covering mainly style detail, general appearance, workmanship,
measurements, fabric quality, Trims and components, Lot color, printing, embellishments and washing
quality.
2nd line Production Inspection: This inspection is done during production to ensure initial discrepancies
have been corrected and rectified. This inspection is a follow-up of the 1 st inline production inspection
and is generally carried out after 1st line inspection when discrepancies have been detected at that time.
Final Random Inspection: This inspection is carried out when the production of the total quantity of an
order or partial delivery is completed. A sample lot will be selected from the order and a percentage of the
garments will be inspected, this percentage usually being stipulated by the buyer. The AQL sampling
inspection system as specified by the buyer.
Garment related defects are:
 Sewing defects
 Open seams, wrong stitching techniques, non- matching threads, missing stitches, improper
creasing of the garment, erroneous thread tension and raw edges are some of the sewing defects
which can affect the garment quality adversely.

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 Color defects
 Variation of color between the sample and the final garment, wrong color combinations and
mismatching dyes should always be avoided.
 Sizing defects
 Wrong gradation of sizes, difference in measurement of various parts of a garment like sleeves of
XL size for body of L size garment can deteriorate the garments beyond repair.
 Garment defects
 Broken or defective buttons, snaps, stitches, different shades within the same garment, dropped
stitches, exposed notches and raw edges, fabric defects, holes, faulty zippers, loose or hanging
sewing threads, misaligned buttons and holes, missing buttons, needle cuts or chews, pulled or
loose yarn, stains, unfinished buttonhole, short zippers, inappropriate trimmings etc. all can lead to
the end of a brand name even before its establishment.
Packing:
The finished garments are finally sorted on the basis of design and size and packed to send for
distribution to the retail outlets.
STANDARD BODY DIMENSIONS FOR VARIOUS GARMENTS
Body dimensions for infants: The following table provides the body dimensions for infants garments.
Size 00000 0000 000 00 0 1 2 3
Height (cms) 52 56 62 68 76 84 92 100
To fit weight (kg) 3 4 6 8 10 12 - -
To fit chest (cms) - - - - - - 56 58
Age (months) prem newborn 0-3 3-6 6-12 12-18 - -
Body dimensions for men’s general outerwear and underwear:The following table provides the body
dimensions for men’s garments.

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Size XS S M L XL 2XL 3XL 4XL 5XL 6XL
To fit chest (cms) 85 90 95 100 105 110 115 120 125 130
To fit waist (cms) 75 80 85 90 95 100 105 110 115 120
Body dimensions for men’s garments to cover the lower body:The following table provides the body
dimensions for men’s pants and shorts.
Size
74R
3
77R 79R
S
4
82R 84R
M
5
87R
L
6
93R
XL
7
97R
2XL
8
102R
3XL
107R
4XL
112R
5XL
117R
6XL
122R
To fit
waist(cms)
74 77 79 82 84 87 92 97 102 107 112 117 122
To fit in
leg(cms)
71 74 74 77 77 79 82 83 84 84 84 84 84
Body dimensions for stout men’s garments to cover the lower body:The following table provides the body
dimensions for stout men’s pants and shorts.
Size
4S
92ST
5S
97ST
6S
102ST
To fit chest (cms) 92 97 102
To fit waist (cms) 74 77 79
Body dimensions for multiple fitting(tailored) outwear:The following table provides the body dimensions
for men’s suits.
Size 87 92 97 102 107 112 117 122

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Size 87 92 97 102 107 112 117 122
To fit chest (cms) 87 92 97 102 107 112 117 122
To fit waist (cms) 77 82 87 92 97 102 107 112
THE FUTURE AND ECONOMICS OF THE MENSWEAR GARMENT INDUSTRY
The menswear market in India is the fastest growing apparel segment. According to Datamonitor it is
expected to grow by 40.6 per cent to $13.8 billion in 2012. The India Menswear Market Analysis 2010-
2014 by Venn Research found that total revenue from menswear was $11.8 billion in 2009, representing a
compound annual growth rate of 8.6 per cent from 2005 to 2009.
According to Mr Sunil O Khandelwal, Group Chief Financial Officer-Alok Industries, “Menswear
segment is the largest segment in domestic apparel market. According to the Technopak, menswear
market size is about Rs 72,000 crores and is growing at a CAGR of 9 per cent per annum. And with this
growth rate, it is estimated to reach a size of Rs 1, 76, 000 crores by 2020 opening up galore of
opportunities.”
As per the findings of RNCOS, a leading market research company, the Indian mens’ apparel industry is
booming and the rural markets will play a pivotal in this growth story. This is because the perception of
rural youth towards clothes is changing. The report asserts that rural India, which was till now completely
relying on tailored garments, has created a strong demand for ready-to-wear garments brands creating
huge growth opportunities. Rachna Aggarwal, CEO, Indus-League Clothing feels the menswear market
has matured and become truly international. What’s more almost all men have shifted to buying ready to
wear.
Usha Periasamy, vice president, Operations and Brand Head, Royal Classic Group, makers of brand
Classic Polo feels menswear segment is yet to peak and will grow bigger with a lot of changes happening
within the existing market.

32
Highlighting the reasons behind the growth of menswear category, Ajay Kabra, Director, Ajay Synthetics
says, “The current market size of the formal suits, jackets and blazers segment is estimated at Rs 45
billion and it’s expected to grow rapidly over the next five years. Growth in this product category at the
retail level is expected to be 14 per cent from Rs 319 billion in 2010 to Rs 633 billion in 2015.
The Indian men’s apparel industry is expected to burgeon at a CAGR of 14.86% from 2008 to 2010,
according to new research report "Booming Men Apparel Market in India" by RNCOS. The report gives
an insight into the expanding men’s apparel industry in India. It has been made to help clients in
analyzing the opportunities, challenges and drivers critical to the success of men apparel industry.
The report segments the men’s apparel industry into sub-sectors to provide a detailed overview of past
and current performance (both in value and volume terms) of each segment. The segment-wise future
outlook given in the report will help clients to identify the future growth spots and the niche markets to
target.
The report helps clients to understand the Indian consumer behavior and their preferences and various
distribution channels existing in the Indian market. In the backdrop of market trends, potential future
growth areas, and challenges for the industry, RNCOS has given some recommendations for making it
easier for clients to adjust their strategies according to the market and align them with changing market
scenario.
Key Findings
 Men’s apparel industry will increase at a CAGR of 14.86% during the two-year period from 2008
to 2010.
 The demand for ready-made garments in rural India will surge at a CAGR of 16.50% to reach Rs.
42918 Crore by 2010.
 Increasing at a CAGR of 24%, branded apparel industry for men will cross Rs. 25,000 Crore by
2010.
 Per capita GDP spending on apparel increased to 5.8% in 2006 from 4.9% in 2003.
 In 2007, men’s apparel industry was mainly dominated by shirts (in value terms) accounting for
36.5% of total men’s segment.

33
 The Indian fashion industry is expected to rise at a stupendous pace of 22.67% through 2012 from
2007.

35
SWOT ANALYSIS OF INDIAN TEXTILE AND APPAREL INDUSTRY
Strengths:
 Indian Textile Industry is an Independent & Self-Reliant industry.
 Abundant Raw Material availability that helps industry to control costs and reduces the lead-time
across the operation.
 Availability of Low Cost and Skilled Manpower provides competitive advantage to industry.
 Availability of large varieties of cotton fiber and has a fast growing synthetic fiber industry.
 India has great advantage in Spinning Sector and has a presence in all process of operation and
value chain.
 India is one of the largest exporters of Yarn in international market and contributes around 25%
share of the global trade in Cotton Yarn.
 The Apparel Industry is one of largest foreign revenue contributor and holds 12% of the country’s
total export.
 Industry has large and diversified segments that provide wide variety of products.
 Growing Economy and Potential Domestic and International Market.
 Industry has Manufacturing Flexibility that helps to increase the productivity.
Weaknesses:
 Indian Textile Industry is highly Fragmented Industry.
 Industry is highly dependent on Cotton.
 Lower Productivity in various segments.
 There is Declining in Mill Segment.
 Lack of Technological Development that affect the productivity and other activities in whole
value chain.
 Infrastructural Bottlenecks and Efficiency such as, Transaction Time at Ports and transportation
Time.
 Unfavorable labor Laws.
 Lack of Trade Membership, which restrict to tap other potential market.
 Lacking to generate Economies of Scale.
 Higher Indirect Taxes, Power and Interest Rates.

36
Opportunities:
 Growth rate of Domestic Textile Industry is 6-8% per annum.
 Large, Potential Domestic and International Market.
 Product development and Diversification to cater global needs.
 Elimination of Quota Restriction leads to greater Market Development.
 Market is gradually shifting towards Branded Readymade Garment.
 Increased Disposable Income and Purchasing Power of Indian Customer opens New Market
Development.
 Emerging Retail Industry and Malls provide huge opportunities for the Apparel, Handicraft and
other segments of the industry.
 Greater Investment and FDI opportunities are available.
Threats:
 Competition from other developing countries, especially China.
 Continuous Quality Improvement is need of the hour as there are different demand patterns all
over the world.
 Elimination of Quota system will lead to fluctuations in Export Demand.
 Threat for Traditional Market for Power loom and Handloom Products and forcing them for
product diversification.
 Geographical Disadvantages.
 International labor and Environmental Laws.
 To balance the demand and supply.
 To make balance between price and quality.

43
MENSWEAR MARKET IN CITIES OF INDIA: FORECAST ANDANALYSIS
 Market for men's clothing: estimated to be worth $2 billion a year. Branded ready-to-wear
garments already account for 40 percent of these purchases. This market segment is growing by
more than 30percent a year.
 Men's clothing is therefore one of the strongest categories in most department stores. The arrival
of Adidas, Nike, and Reebok five years ago was marked by the opening throughout India of
showrooms intended to create an awareness of the products and to show people how to use them.
The time is ripe for these brands, along with Indian "wannabes" such as Liberty, to develop multi
brand sports clothing and footwear stores that meet the needs of serious sportsmen and fashion-
conscious people alike.
 Such chains will have a high dependence on men's clothing and casual and sportswear, and they
will be concentrated in up market urban center.
 For attackers, the challenge will be to spot the gaps and opportunities that arise as India’s income
and class structure change; Attackers seeking to exploit these changes should consider what new
needs will be unique to Indian tastes and the market as the middle class grows.
 But growing incomes and consumption will pressure incumbents from two directions. First, such
companies must adjust to the pace and magnitude of change, for as consumers rise through the
income brackets, their needs, tastes, aspirations, and brand loyalties will evolve along with their
lifestyles. Second, India’s growing consumption will attract a raft of challengers, and ongoing
economic reform will significantly intensify competition in many markets.
 India’s rapid upward mobility means that many of India’s households will be new consumers,
enjoying significant discretionary consumption in the organized economy for the first time in their
lives. India’s incumbents, mostly domestic companies, will start with many advantages: existing
relationships with customers, an understanding of their needs, and recognized brands.
Men’s fashion has turned out to be a master storyteller of our times. It is experimental and sexually more
confident than women’s fashion. Open to androgynous influences, it challenges the very definition of

44
male hood, which was trapped inside pant-shirt combos or dark suits as primary garments for the
authoritative, heterosexual, conventional breadwinner. Now, glistening abs, bare, shaven chests and pink
drop-crotch pants hint at a nuanced exploration of masculinity.
First, the bare facts. The menswear market in India is the fastest growing apparel segment. According to
the market-analysis company Datamonitor, it is expected to grow by 40.6 per cent to $13.8 billion in
2012. The India Menswear Market Analysis 2010-2014 by Venn Research found that total revenue from
menswear was $11.8 billion in 2009, representing a compound annual growth rate of 8.6 per cent from
2005 to 2009. In comparison, the Chinese market increased only by 5.7 per cent.
Designer wear is still to catch on, but trendy ready-to-wear is burgeoning. “Van Heusen party wear alone
raked in a turnover of Rs 100 crore in India in 2009-10, a growth of 50 per cent over the previous year,”
says Shital Mehta, COO of the shirt brand that sponsored the men’s fashion week.

45
COLOUR PREDICTIONS AND THEMES FOR SUMMER 2012

47
We’ll admit calling “blue” a hot new trend is a little like calling Jack Nicholson an
“upcoming actor”, but this stalwart of menswear truly is the season’s hot colour. Think of
it as Travolta’s turn as Vincent Vega or Dylan’s Time Out Of Mind – a rebirth. Whether
dressed up in a slick blue suit or dressed down in a pair of navy sneakers and jeans, you’ll
definitely be making a statement by sporting this colour.
But if you are likely to roam in fashion circles we recommend you insert an adjective
before you go describing your blazer as blue. Cobalt mantle, powder, electric, pale – these
shades are on everyone’s lips in fashiondom. Take a look at these looks and tips to make
sure you make ‘em green with envy.

48
Photo: Prasad Naik, Kim Weston-Arnold/James Cochrane, Dwaipayan Mazumdar, Prabuddha Dasgupta

51
GARMENT DETAILS
POCKET DETAILS

53
CUFF DETAIL

56
SLEEVE DETAILS

57
YOKE DETAILS

60
EXTRA DETAILS

61
DATA ANALYSIS
FORMALS
35%
SEMI FORMALS
45%
CASUALS
20%
WHAT DRESS CODE DO YOU FOLLOW AT
YOUR WORK PLACE?
LOCAL BRAND
15%
INDIAN BRAND
51%
INTERNATIONAL
BRAND
34%
WHICH BRAND DO YOU PREFER TO WEAR?

62
STRIPED
29%
PLAIN
21%TEXTURED
13%
CHECKED
37%
WHAT KIND OF SHIRTS DO YOU PREFER?
NATURAL FABRIC
53%
SYNTHETIC FABRIC
47%
WHAT MATERIAL DO YOU PREFERTHE
SHIRTS TO BE IN?

63
PRICE
67%
BRAND
33%
WHAT IS MORE IMPORTANT TO YOU?
STRAIGHT CUT
63%
APPLE CUT
(ROUND CUT)
37%
WHAT KIND OF HEM DO YOU PREFER?

64
FANCY POCKETS
43%
FANCY SHIRT
YOKES
38%
FANCY BUTTONS
12%
FANCY ZIPPERS
7%
WHAT NEW TRIMS WOULD YOU LIKE TO SEE?
QUALITY
47%
SERVICE
21%
VALUE FOR MONEY
32%
WHAT DO YOU EXPECT YOUR BRAND TO GIVE
YOU?

65
0
20
40
60
80
18 - 25 26 - 35 35 AND
ABOVE
FORMALS 11 56 73
SEMI - FORMALS 56 34 27
CASUALS 33 10 0
PERCENTAGE
AGE GROUP PREFERENCES
0
10
20
30
40
50
18 - 30 30 AND
ABOVE
LOCAL BRANDS 31 13
INDIAN BRANDS 42 44
INTERNATIONAL BRANDS 27 43
PERCENTAGE
AGE GROUP - BRAND PREFERENCES

66
0
10
20
30
40
50
60
70
18 - 30 30 AND ABOVE
NATURAL FABRICS 43 64
SYNTHETIC FABRICS 57 36
PERCENTAGE
AGE GROUP - FABRIC PREFERENCES
0
20
40
60
18 - 30 30 AND ABOVE
FANCY POCKETS 45 26
FANCY SHIRT YOKES 34 32
FANCY BUTTONS 12 35
FANCY ZIPPERS 9 7
PERCENTAGE
AGE GROUP - TRIMS PREFERENCES

67
RETAIL DATA ANALYSIS
SEASONAL
25%
FESTIVAL SEASON
55%
SALE PERIOD
20%
WHICH IS THE BEST SALE PERIOD FOR THE
BRAND ?
NATURAL FABRIC
59%
SYNTHETIC FABRIC
41%
WHAT MATERIAL DO YOU PREFERTHE
SHIRTS TO BE IN?

68
SLIM FIT
45%
REGULAR FIT
55%
WHAT FIT OF SHIRT SELLS THE MOST?
(FORMALS & SEMI FORMALS)
DARKS
31%
LIGHTS
42%
EARTHY
14%
PASTELS
13%
WHAT COLOURS SELL THE MOST (FORMALS
& SEMI FORMALS ?

69
DESIGN PROCESS
DESIGN DEVELOPMENT

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