1. Design Resource on
Chikankari Embroidery of Lucknow II
The craft of floral embroidery
by
Dr. Bibhudutta Baral, Mr. J. Antony William and Ms. Anushree Kumar
NID R&D Campus, Bangalore
Making Process:
Stages involved in making process are:
1. Block printing
2. Embroidery work
3. Washing
Block Printing: Initially, the design to be worked is printed on the plain fabric. The wooden block is dipped
in the color solution which is made by mixing glue and indigo. Then it is printed on the fabric. There will be
different blocks for butis, floral patterns and borders. In Lucknow, the printing process is done by separate
group of artisans who mainly concentrate in printing. The printed fabric is now ready for the embroidery
work.
Embroidery work: The embroidery is done over the printed design pattern using needle and thread. The
artisan creates traditional patterns using different techniques. Different types of stitches can be made in one
product.
Washing: Washing is the final stage of production process. The fabric after embroidery work is first soaked
in water and then washed to remove the block printed blue color. Then it is starched and ironed to obtain
stiffness. The final product is now ready for the market.
3. Comments and Feedback
What is 'Kantha'?
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In Bengali language a 'kantha' is a blanket made of cotton, hand quilted with cotton thread.
'Kantha' stitch is the simple running stitch embroidery. 'Kantha' stitched silk sarees from Bengal
made a name for itself. Creating each saree is a labor intensive process, since these are always
hand embroidered. Each one is a work of art.
The simplicity of the stitch and the intricacy of the design gives these sarees a sophisticated and
elegant look.
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Traditional Embroideries of Indian States!
POSTED BY SURABHI LAL AT 6:58 PM SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 29, 2012
I have recently learned Embroideries belonging to the Five States of India called
Chikankari, Kashidakari, Phulkari, Kantha and Rabari. Their samples are below.
Embroidery of Uttar Pradesh - Chikankari
6. The history of Chikan work is not definite and different people have different
assumptions and beliefs regarding the same. According to Megasthenes, the Greek
traveler, the art of Chikankari started in East Bengal (now Bangla Desh) in 3rd century.
He also mentions Chikan, which refers to floral prints on fine muslin clothes. Shadow
Work is known as Chikankari Work it is done on Organdy, Muslin and Nowadays on
Chiffon and Georgette as well.
I have done Shadow work on an Organdy fabric. The Stitch used is universally known
as "Herringbone Stitch".
7.
8. Shadow Work done by Lucknowi Craftsmen.
Lucknowi Chikankari
Embroidery of Jammu & Kashmir - Kashidakari
9. The Kashmiri jaal work is quite popular. It takes months to complete thread work on one
shawl, stole or bedspread. Artisans stitch decorative motifs of birds, maple leaves, and
other decorative designs. The most popular form of thread work is the chain stitch that
is done on shawls and clothes.
I have done Kashidakari on Cotton Fabric by using Chain Stitch.
12. I am wearing a Kaftan made of shawl with kashidakari work on it
13. This Kaftan was stitched at my boutique "Ambiance Kreators"
Embroidery of West Bengal - Kantha
14. Kantha embroidery is a popular type of craft created in the Bengal region of India. It has
always been popular amongst rural women who keep the tradition of this special craft
alive. Kantha Work is done by Using "Running Stitch".
I have done Kantha work on cotton fabric.
15. Kantha work done on Saree by Craftsmen of Bengal.
Stole with Kantha - Parsi Work
17. The art of phulkari has its origins in the early part of the 19th century when the odhini or
head cloth was highlighted with embroidered flowers. It was generally done with silk
threads on Kaddar.
I have done Phulkari on cotton fabric using "Darning Stitch."
25. Traditional Phulkari done on Chiffon Chunni and Cotton Kurti.
Stitches used in Traditional Phulkari.
26. Embroidery of Gujrat - Rabari/Kutch
Aari Embroidery with silk threads using a hook is a popular craft of Kutch, Gujrat. The
motifs found commonly are, dancing peacocks, human figures in dancing postures and
other delicate and definitive forms.
I have done Kutch Embroidery on cotton fabric and multiple stitches have been used
which are Blanket, Mirror Work, Herringbone, Dots and SequinsWork.
27.
28. Kutch Embroidery done by Traditional Craftswomen of Gujrat.
Patola Embroidery
Any true traveler planning a tour to Gujarat will surely be interested to
know about the kinds of handicrafts in Gujarat as well as that is an
integral part of the state. Among the various types of handicraft
categories, the Patola Embroidery is a handiwork that draws prime
29. interest from the visitors.
The Patola Embroidery is woven on the Patola silk which acts as a rich base to the embroidery. It is an exclusive
fabric of hand woven silk and originates in Patan. Unlike block prints procedures, tie and dye technique is used to
create fabulous geometric motifs on the Patola silk. The whole procedure is time consuming and intricate but the end
result deserves a special place in your closet for its elegance and intricate handiwork.
Arts and Crafts in Gujarat
Handicrafts of Gujarat The Patola Embroidery being one of the most
Applique Ari Embroidery important features of the handicrafts of Gujarat,
Block Printing Kathi Embroidery originally used to be done with juices and extracts
Mirror Work and Embroidery Patola Embroidery
of vegetations, like, leaves, flowers, stems.
Rabari Embroidery Tie and Dye
However, later chemical dyes have taken their
Zari Embroidery
place. The design most in use is the form of ikkat,
the diagonally dispersed diamonds with elephant, walnut, Dancing Girl, Narikunja and Parrot. Extensive use of vibrant
colors add extra dimension to the fabrics.
The Patola silk is woven on a special hand operated primitive harness loom made out of bamboo shafts. Traditionally,
the business of Patola Embroidery mostly is run as family business. A very costly product due to its demanding work
procedure, the Patola saree is used as a trousseau and is considered to be an item of delicate preservation.
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