4. an opulent setting to convey luxury …
jewels
a satin and lace dress,
a broad ruff round the neck
Peter Paul Rubens
Portrait of Marchesa Brigida Spinola-Doria
Portrait de la marquise Brigida Spinola Doria
1606
Collection Samuel H. Kress, National Gallery of Art,
Washington, D.C.
5.
6.
7.
8. the daughter of King Philip II of Spain
sumptuously dressed in black and gold
and
with a spectacularly large ruff
Peter Paul Rubens, studio of, atelier de
Portrait of the Infanta Isabella
Portrait de l'infante Isabelle
1615
National Gallery, London
9.
10.
11. Altera Donna, a grand lady ...
the resplendent Marchesa Cattaneo,
genoese noblewoman on the terrace of her palace
a proud bearing
lavish, black costume
splendid ruff
and
sprig of orange blossoms, a traditional symbol of chastity
Anthony van Dyck
Marchesa Elena Grimaldi Cattaneo
1623
National Gallery of Art, Washington, D.C.
12.
13.
14. a patrician grandeur and aristocratic refinement …
a gold medallion, pearls
a black dress, beautifully set off by a graceful lace ruff
Anthony van Dyck
A Genoese Noblewoman and Her Son
Une noble génoise et son fils
1626
National Gallery of Art, Washington
15.
16.
17.
18. a majestic portrait
a imposing grandeur
Anthony van Dyck
Marchesa Balbi
1623
National Gallery of Art, Washington
19.
20.
21.
22. cold, haughty and imperious ...
an arabesque patterned background
a fan
a black dress with blackwork sleeves covered in gauze
and
a lace ruff
Unknown master, Maître inconnu
Elizabeth I
Élisabeth Ire
1585-1590
National Portrait Gallery, London
23.
24.
25. cold and impassive expression to emphasize
the solemnity of the royal image ...
an austere black velvet dress
and
zibellino
Juan Pantoja de la Cruz
Queen Elisabeth of Valois, third wife of Philip II
Isabelle de Valois, reine, épouse de Philippe II
d'Espagne
1565
Museo Nacional del Prado, Madrid
26.
27.
28. daughter of Henry IV of France and Marie de Medici
Frans Pourbus the Younger,
Frans Pourbus le Jeune
Isabella of France, Queen of Spain
Élisabeth de France, reine d'Espagne
1615
Museo Nacional del Prado, Madrid
29.
30.
31. the costume is clearly that of the Spanish court
and the small figure is not a child but a dwarf
Frans Pourbus the Younger,
Frans Pourbus le Jeune
The Infanta Isabella Clara Eugenia, Archduchess of
Austria
Isabelle Claire Eugénie, archiduchesse d'Autriche et
infante d'Espagne
1599
Royal Collection, Hampton Court
32.
33.
34. a grain merchant's daughter from Zwolle, the Netherlands
a costly bridal stomacher called a "bruidsborst" with gold thread
and various flowers symbolizing marriage
and
a starched linen figure-eight ruff
Frans Hals
Portrait of Aletta Hanemans
Portrait d'Aletta Hanemans
1525
Koninklijk Kabinet van Schilderijen Mauritshuis, The Hague
35.
36.
37.
38. Philip IV´s sister, engaged to her cousin, Ferdinand Habsburg
she was married by proxy in Madrid in 1630 and four years later,
she made her own contribution to that long history of
endogamous marriages when she bore a baby girl who eventually
married her uncle, Philip IV
Diego Velázquez
Maria Anna of Spain, Queen of Hungary
Portrait de l'infante Marie-Anne, reine de Hongrie
1630
Museo Nacional del Prado, Madrid
39.
40.
41. a sumptuous clothing ...
one of the equestrian portraits
in the Hall of the Kingdoms of the Buen Retiro Palace
to affirm the glory of the Spanish monarchy
during what was in fact a period of decline
Diego Velázquez
Queen Margaret of Austria on Horseback
Reine Marguerite d'Autriche
1635
Museo Nacional del Prado, Madrid
42.
43.
44. the pose, the dress …
a elegant portrait
Johannes Cornelisz Verspronck
Portrait of Adriana Croes
Portrait d'Adriana Croes
1645
Rijksmuseum Amsterdam, Amsterdam
45.
46.
47. an 'honest and rare gentleman’ …
Anonymous, Anonyme
Sir Henry Unton
1586
Tate Britain, London
48.
49.
50.
51. a ruff of 15 muslin strips half a foot wide …
François Quesnel
Portrait of Henri Valois
Henri III, roi de France
1588
Muzeum Narodowe w Warszawie, Warszaw
52.
53.
54. a sable-lined tabbaard (Dutch gown)
Russian ushanka hat
and
translucent neck ruff
Rembrandt
Portrait of Nicolaes Ruts
Portrait de Nicolaes Ruts
1631
Frick Collection, New York City
55.
56.
57. co-sovereign of the Habsburg Netherlands
Frans Pourbus the Younger, workshop
Frans Pourbus le Jeune, atelier
Frans Portrait of Albert VII, Archduke of Austria
Frans Portrait d'Albert VII, Archiduc d'Autriche
1600
Rijksmuseum Amsterdam, Amsterdam
58.
59.
60. the courtly aspirations of George Goring ...
a resplendent costume
a fine lace cartwheel ruff
a black velvet cloak embroidered in silver and gold thread
George Gower
George Goring Junior
1581
Private collection
61.
62.
63. painted for the decoration of the Hall of Realms
of the Buen Retiro Palace ...
the arrogant Philip III of Spain on horseback
Diego Velázquez
Philip III on Horseback
Philippe III à cheval
1635
Museo Nacional del Prado, Madrid
64.
65.
66. elegant and distant …
with Order of the Golden Fleece on the black levite
Sofonisba Anguissola
Philip II
Philippe II
1573
Museo del Prado, Madrid
67.
68.
69. a brewer, magistrate, and later mayor of Haarlem
radiating pride and self-confidence ...
a stylish shiny black outfit
and
a magnificent ruff of white lace
Frans Hals
Portrait of Jacob Pietersz Olycan
Portrait de Jacob Pietersz. Olycan
1625
Koninklijk Kabinet van Schilderijen Mauritshuis, The Hague
70.
71.
72. Treaty of London, signed on
18 August 1604 concluded
the nineteen-year Anglo-
Spanish War
the room in Old Somerset
House in Westminster ...
on the left are the members
of the Hispano-Flemish
delegation, on the right,
the English commissioners
Anonymous, Anonyme
The Somerset House
Conference
Conférence de Somerset House
1604
National Portrait Gallery, London
73.
74.
75.
76. a Antwerp merchant in
his Gallery together with
his wife and their son
Frans Francken the Younger,
Frans Francken le Jeune
The Collection of Paintings
'of Sebastian Leerse’
La collection de peintures
«de Sebastian Leerse»
first half of 17th century,
première moitié du 17e
siècle
Royal Museum of Fine Arts
Antwerp, Antwerpen
77.
78.
79.
80. sumptuous ruffs ...
wife of the Roman Cavalier
Pierino Maselli, with six of her
children
(of Florentine origin, died in
September 1605 at the age
of 37 after giving birth to her
nineteenth child)
Lavinia Fontana
Portrait of Bianca Degli Utili
Maselli and her children
Portrait de Bianca Degli Utili
Maselli et ses enfants
1604-1605
Private colection
81.
82.
83. a happy, smiling pair …
Franz Hals
Portrait of a Couple, Probably Isaac
Abrahamsz Massa and Beatrix van der
Laen
Portrait de mariage d'Isaac Massa et
Beatrix Van der Laen
1622
Rijksmuseum Amsterdam, Amsterdam
84.
85.
86.
87. the Honeysuckle Bower ...
Rubens as an aristocratic gentleman with his left hand
on the hilt of his sword
and
love and marriage symbolism
the honeysuckle, traditional symbol of love and the
holding of right hands (junctio dextrarum),
symbol of union through marriage
Peter Paul Rubens
Self portrait with Isabella Brandt, his first wife, in the
honeysuckle bower
Pierre Paul Rubens avec Isabella Brant
1606
Alte Pinakothek , Munich
88.
89.
90. olga_oes
The ruff in painting
La fraise dans la peinture
images and text credit www.
Music The Piano Guys Limitless
created olga.e.
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91. The ruff is an item of clothing worn in Western, Central and Northern Europe from the mid-sixteenth
century to the mid-seventeenth century.
The round and flat variation is often called a millstone collar after its resemblance to that object.
The size of the ruff increased as the century went on.
The stiffness of the garment forced upright posture, and their impracticality led them to become a symbol
of wealth and status.
Ruffs were primarily made from linen cambric, stiffened with starch imported from the Low Countries.
Later ruffs were also sometimes made entirely from lace. However, lace was expensive since it was a new
fabric, developed in the early sixteenth century.
By the start of the seventeenth century, ruffs were falling out of fashion in Western Europe, in favour of
wing collars and falling bands.
The ruff was banned in Spain under Philip IV (orchestrated by Gaspar de Guzmán, Count-Duke of
Olivares).
The fashion lingered longer in the Dutch Republic, where ruffs can be seen in portraits well into the
seventeenth century.