3D Printer workshop 2016
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Slide deck from my 3D printing workshop at Bitraf April 13th
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3D Printer workshop 2016
- 1. 3D PRINTER WORKSHOP Bitraf, April 13 2016 Jens Chr Brynildsen @jenschr / jenschr på gmail
- 2. Jens Chr Brynildsen / @jenschr bitraf.no
- 3. OVERVIEW • How does our printers work? • What software should you download? • Printing workflow • Finding 3D models online • How to solve common problems • ABS printing • How to make your own 3D models
- 4. HOW DOES OUR PRINTERS WORK?
- 6. 180-250C
- 13. ULTIMAKER 2
- 14. WHY WE LIKE ULTIMAKER? • Very solid construction / high speed printing • They are fully Open Source (hardware) • They actively supports CURA (Open Source software) • They don’t launch a new model just to add a feature • They sell kits that let owners of old models upgrade to the most recent tech
- 15. FRAME
- 16. ON / OFF
- 17. WHEN THE LAST PERSON LEAVES - ALL 3D PRINTERS ARE TURNED OFF. LONG PRINT? STAY AND READ A BOOK...
- 18. 4 AXIS
- 19. X & Y AXIS
- 20. Z-AXIS
- 21. ENDSTOPS
- 22. BUILD PLATFORM
- 23. PLASTIC FEEDING
- 24. HOTEND
- 25. EXTRUDER
- 26. BOWDEN TUBE
- 27. ULTICONTROLLER
- 28. OTHER PRINTERS? • All printers will have similar features/equipment • All you learn today will apply to other machines, but the physical layout may be different • Open Source printers encourage you to learn & print • Closed Source printers encourage you to print • Bitraf encourages Open Source
- 30. FOR ALL USERS Download Cura http://software.ultimaker.com (Windows, Mac, Linux) wifi password: grimbadgerassault
- 31. CURA
- 32. PLASTICS
- 33. PLA • melts at 50-70C • brittle / will snap • fully renewable • very easy to use • needs a fan
- 34. PLA ABS • melts at >110C • rugged / LEGO plastic • made from oil • requires special care • needs a heated bed • melts at 50-70C • brittle / will snap • fully renewable • very easy to use • needs a fan
- 35. PLA ABS • melts at >110C • rugged / LEGO plastic • made from oil • requires special care • needs a heated bed • melts at 50-70C • brittle / will snap • fully renewable • very easy to use • needs a fan
- 36. OTHER PLASTICS • PLA/ABS with additives • PET (Polyethylene terephthalate) / XT • Nylon / PC (Polycarbonate) / HIPS (High Impact Polystyrene) • NinjaFlex, EcoFlex, FlexiFil, Rubber-like • Woodfill/Copperfill, Laywood/Laybrick/BendLay • Poro-Lay (porous, fibrous, foam, felt, jelly consistency) • PVA (AquaSolve), thermocromatic
- 37. Image by George Roberts, http://gr5.org
- 38. Image by George Roberts, http://gr5.org
- 39. Image by George Roberts, http://gr5.org
- 40. Image by George Roberts, http://gr5.org
- 41. Image by George Roberts, http://gr5.org
- 42. FILAMENT TIPS • We have some donated plastic here to play with. YMMV • The “cheap plastic” is often expensive if time is a cost • Buy your own plastic to learn what you are printing with • Buying from a renowned vendor will save you time and grief (use Ultimaker, Faberdashery, DiamondAge, Ultimachine, GRFF or Protoparadigm) • Colorfabb’s PLA/PHA mixture can be difficult to work with unless you only print with that one plastic. It’s more sticky...
- 43. Ball Bearing in filament? Image by RichRap, http://richrap.blogspot.no/2012/06/jammed-frggn-nozzle-30doc- days-1518.html
- 44. ALTERNATE SOFTWARE • Check out Slicer http://slic3r.org/ (for Windows, Mac & Linux) • Simplify3D https://www.simplify3d.com/ • Repetier Host for direct control of the printer http://www.repetier.com/download/ • Kisslicer & Netfabb may be interesting too
- 46. WORKFLOW 1.Find / make model 2.Slice model & save to SD 3.Prepare the printer 4.Start printing!
- 47. 1. FIND A MODEL • Thingiverse.com • Youmagine.com • Cubehero.com • Bld3r.com • Github Read more at http://richrap.blogspot.no/2014/05/makerbot-patents-twist-knife-on-open.html
- 48. 2. SLICE THE MODEL • Cura • Slicer • Kisslicer • Netfabb • Skeinforge / RepG
- 49. CURA
- 50. 3. PREPARE THE PRINTER (All steps may not be required)
- 51. 3. PREPARE THE PRINTER Prepare the build surface Image by Ultimaker
- 52. PREPARE THE PRINTER Level the print bed Image by Ultimaker
- 53. PREPARE THE PRINTER Level the print bed Image by Ultimaker
- 54. PREPARE THE PRINTER Level the print bed Image by Ultimaker
- 55. PREPARE THE PRINTER Level the print bed Image by Ultimaker
- 56. PREPARE THE PRINTER Level the print bed Image by Ultimaker
- 57. PREPARE THE PRINTER Level the print bed Image by Ultimaker
- 58. PREPARE THE PRINTER Level the print bed Image by Ultimaker
- 59. PREPARE THE PRINTER Inserting filament & priming
- 60. PREPARE THE PRINTER Use Ulticontroller to heat the nozzle 1. Push Encoder 2. Select “Control” 3. Select “Nozzle” 4. Set to 210C Image by Ultimaker
- 61. PREPARE THE PRINTER When heated, open extruder latch
- 62. PREPARE THE PRINTER Open extruder drive
- 63. PREPARE THE PRINTER Insert the filament Insert filament all the way through the bowden tube. Push until it reaches the extruder.
- 64. PREPARE THE PRINTER Close and prime the extruder Lock the extruder & then turn the big extruder gear until you see plastic coming out of the nozzle.
- 65. 4. START PRINTING 1. Insert SD card 2. Push Encoder 3. Select “Print from SD” 4. Scroll to the file & select
- 66. WHEN THE LAST PERSON LEAVES - ALL 3D PRINTERS ARE TURNED OFF. NO EXCEPTIONS!
- 71. PRINTING RULES 1.You break it, you fix it 2.Keep the space clean. Don’t leave a mess. 3.For good prints - buy your own quality plastic. Keep it in a bin in the Lab. 4.No unattended printing. When the last person leaves - all 3D printers are turned off along with all other equipment.
- 72. HOW TO SOLVE COMMON PROBLEMS
- 73. SWITCHING PLASTICS • Feed plastic manually until new color shows • Keep extruding for a while or do a test print • Old colors will keep contaminating your print until you got it all out • Slightly hotter temp may help cleaning out the old
- 74. GREAT HELP-SITE!
- 75. HOTEND Copper nozzle Aluminium heater block Peek tube PTFE insert (White plastic)
- 76. COLD-PULL
- 77. If you leave the extruder hot for a long time you’ll create one of the most time-consuming problems for yourself. A plug forms here since the heat creeps up the brown PEEK piece. When you try to push warm plastic into a tube, it expands and creates a plug... CLOGGED ABOVE HOTEND
- 78. IF YOU CAN’T FIX IT? Always ask for help and if it can’t be fixed - leave a note so others know it’s not in working order!
- 79. ABS PRINTING
- 80. DIFFERENCES • Heated build platform • Kapton or PET tape • UHU glue stick • No print-fan • Enclosure
- 84. WARPING
- 85. POST-TREATMENT
- 86. POST-TREATMENT
- 87. QUESTIONS?
Editor's Notes
- Velkommen! Et sted for folk som liker å lage ting og er over gjennomsnittet kreative. En sosial møteplass for de som er interessert i ting som programvare / hardware / mykere-ware, å spille og å lage spill, å lære og lære bort, elektronikk og mekanikk. Kontorplasser og forening!
- Here at Bitraf we have 4 printers available. They are available to anyone - not only members. At Deichman they have two printers available and more and more places have 3D printers for public use.
- Det er mange teknikker. Disse er beskyttet av patenter. Etter å ha vært patentert i 30 år, ble denne teknikken frigitt i 2009. Denne teknikken begynner med en spole med plast-tråd…
- Plasten dyttes gjennom et varme-element som holder presis temperatur
- Mens plasten dyttes ut, beveger maskinen seg så en tråd blir liggende igjen på byggeflaten
- Ved å bevege seg langs to akser bygger man opp en ramme...
- ... som så fylles igjen.
- Når det første laget er ferdig, beveger man byggeflaten litt i høyden og lager neste lag
- Etter hvert bygger man opp et objekt i tre dimensjoner
- There’s also now the UM Original+ that includes a heated build area.
- The Ultimaker 2 is more office-friendly (prettier and more silent), but it’s not as hacker friendly. Suited for office use (more silent).
- The kits that UM are somewhat expensive, but they are worth every penny as the quality is really high! Very few can make something better for less money unless they are extremely skilled and get paid 50kr/hr.
- Rigid, but easy to modify for hackers
- The rule: when the last person leaves - all 3D printers are turned off. No exceptions!
- All printers will have an arrangement of X, Y, Z & E axis.
- Gantry solution, can use only a low weight extruder head
- Only moves downwards = no chance of a print falling off
- Tells the printer when it has moved to the end of an axis
- We have two types: acrylic and aluminium
- The plastic feeding system is the core of the printer & also the core of our problems with printers
- Melts the plastic with temperatures between 180 & 255 celcius
- Pushes plastic into the hotend. Other printers have this integrated with the hotend
- Makes it possible to place the Extruder in a different position than the hotend. Apart from the weight advantage, there is certain disadvantages to this approach.
- No need to have a computer connected. Solves all usb-problems
- There’s advantages & disadvantages to all designs. The Ultimaker design has proven itself to be very solid, so it can handle that beginners make some errors. We’ll try to learn you a few things today that can avoid the most common ones, but let’s start with the software.
- Download for now. We’ll install later.
- Main types: ABS & PLA. We have one printer for each. PET also works fine. PET/PHA (Colorfabb) is difficult to use.
- Many kinds of plastic can be used, but they can be hard to clean out. Do not experiment on the Bitraf printers -> we need them to work... HIPS is very similar to ABS, but can be dissolved with Limone
- Each plastic needs custom settings. Temp is the most important one You cannot trust vendor markings. You have to test.
- Speed matters
- Each plastic needs custom settings You cannot trust vendor markings. You have to test.
- If it’s due to too low temp, just increase. if not -> we have a “plug” of some sort
- Overhangs - fan is crucial
- Chinese PLA from Esun
- Requirements for 3D models (“waterproof” vs Blender) Slicing produces motor instructions What to remember how to control
- This used to be easy... Takerbot / Thingiverse debacle We’ll look at making models towards the end of the workshop
- Converts slices of a model into motor movement Show example in Cura
- Simple settings Advanced settings
- Cover with tape. avoid overlaps. Tiny gaps are ok. Big will cause problems. No need to cut along edge as shown here.
- Not usually required, but check any way so you don’t destroy the printer A sheet of paper is the best measure It can be convenient to heat the print head to remove old plastic before measuring
- Screwdriver & hex wrench should be near the machines. Slightly different on the ABS machine.
- Check...
- ... all ...
- ... four ...
- ... corners!
- The first layer should be slightly squeezed
- Make sure you don’t miss the previous step as it’ll take some time to turn it all the way manually. It’s easier to push, lock and THEN turn/prime.
- That’s it, but don’t forget the rule!
- Why?
- 3DP is by no means error free
- For all visual artifacts in prints, check here for help: http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide
- Pull at: 90C for PLA, 140C for ABS,
- Clogging further up
- Why the second printer has a closed chamber
- ABS shrinks when it cools off. Typically it’ll cool off more further up on the print. UHU can save smaller models.
- The solution is to use an enclosed Build Chamber but... ... the Stratasys patent prevents others from adding a professional looking build chamber
- Use the brim-feature
- Use the ABS-printer, the enclosure, baking-foil/tape on top & UHU glue
- Boiled acetone
- grinding & polishing
- Why the second printer has a closed chamber