technologies in apparel printing and processing

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PRINTING TECHNOLOGIES

2. PRINTING IS NOT ONLY DONE IN FABRIC USED FOR
DRESSES
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LUMI PRINTING
PROCESS
• WHAT IS LUMI?
• INVENTORS
• SOMETHING ABOUT LUMI
• EXAMPLE
• ADVANTAGES

4. A textile printing process using INKODYE that
creates vivid photo-realistic imagery on all
natural materials, including raw leather
without any chemical treatment or processing
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LUMI TEAM MEMBERS

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Invented
around 2005
and 2006
after 5 years
of research!
By JESSE
GENET’S
FASHION
INDUSTR
Y
Inventors are
Jesse and
Stephen,
Los Angel
designers

7. • JESSE began to study types of printing that
weren’t textile related, that is when she
uncovered the building blocks to the Lumi Process.
• It isn’t a stencil process (like screen-printing) or a
transfer process (like sublimation) and it doesn’t
rely on ink-jet technologies (like digital printing).
• With Lumi we are able to print photography,
without any manipulation, onto all-natural
materials, without needing to coat them or use
harsh chemicals to set the print
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 This is a water-based printing
 Inkodye and sunlight (of course LUMI MEANS
LIGHT) are the main ingredients
 Inkodye is the formula of the dye in the 1950s -
light is very sensitive to it, which is a
photographic property.
 however, in cloudy
weather, the "Print" have
to spend double the time
to achieve the desired
effect.

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 The best use out of cotton, wool, silk and natural
fibres such as Lumi process effect, it also can be used
for suede and wood
 The ink can be the shades of red, orange and blue,
because the persistent longest of these colours will
not fade after repeated washing.
 Lumi provides a kit, but the most basic starter kit
at around $ 35
 Some of lumi studio’s partners include PUMA,
Junkfood Clothing, Cisco Home, Summit Series
and more.

10. An exAmple of lumi process
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ribbon process
Materials
required:
 Violet Inkodye,
 foam brush,
 pins,
 silk ribbon,
 b&w negatives
 a work surface

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Making your negatives:
You can buy a B&W disposable camera and take
your own shots! High contrast negatives are
needed for this project to work so try to
overexpose the pics you take!
Cut your ribbon to the size
of the negatives you'd like
to print

12. Lay the ribbon in correct position on the work board
in order to take it easily to the sun
Pour the INKODYE directly on the
ribbon without diluting
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13. Now apply the dye evenly to all places of the ribbon by a foam brush
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14. Next, place the negative on the ribbon , smooth it evenly
and pin them onto the board
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15. Now take the board to sun and wait for
5 minutes (up to 12 minutes in cloudy weather)
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16. Uncover the ribbon by taking out the negative
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Wash vigorously in
HOT soapy water.
Preferably use a strong
textile soap like synthrapol.
If you do not wash enough
your project may continue to
develop after it is dry.

18. Dry it in
shadow and
enjoy using it!!!
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Advantages:
Photographic quality
No pre-treatment
Eco safe
Wash fast
Prints over textures

20. BURNT -OUT PRINTING PROCESS
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WHAT IS BURNT OUT PRINTING?
INVENTION
INFORMATIONS
PROCEDURES
PRECAUTIONS
WASHING INSTRUCTIONS
DISADVANTAGES

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 1ST TYPE: Printing with a chemical substance -
destroys the fibre in the design area, resulting a
designed hole in the fabric
 2ND TYPE: Involves blended fabrics – ONE FIBRE IS
BURNT OUT, and ANOTHER FIBRE IS LEFT
UNDAMAGED when treated with chemicals
 EX: A rayon/polyester blend. When the burn-out
printing is done, RAYON PORTION
DISAPPEARS(burn-out) leaving the polyester
unchanged. The result is a gauze-like print portion of
the fabric

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IN 1920
By EUROPE
FOR VElVET MADE
OF VISCOSE & SIlk
USING
SODIUM
HyDROGEN
SUlPHATE

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Some information about Some information about bbuurrnntt--oouutt pprriinntt
1) Other names - Devour process, Corrosion process, transparency
process, carbonization printing
2) Flat bed screen printing
3) Acids instead of colours
4) Normally the cost of burnout print without profit is $4.5 to $5.0/kg
5) Can be done only on some selected fabrics ( cellulose & synthetic
blend or cellulose & cotton blend)
6) best composition- 60% polyester and 40% cotton fabric or vice versa
7) Common chemical use - Sulphuric acid, mixed into a colourless print
paste
8) Mostly done on velvet fabrics

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EyElET EFFECT
1st printing is done with acid – it destroys a
fibre and produce designed holes – then over
printed with embroidery stitch

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PROCEDURE
CHEMICAl REqUIREMENTS:
1.Sodium bisulphate
2.Synthrapol
3.Guar gum (thickener)
4.Soda Ash
5.Glycerine

27. EqUIPMENTS NEEDED
1.Scouring m/c
2.Blender
3.Printing table
4.Printing source
5.iron
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28. 1. Scour the fabric using soda ash and synthrapol in hot water
at about 60⁰ to remove oil, dirt and sizing
2. Rinse thoroughly
3. Prepare thickener paste – take water in a blender and
gradually add the guar gum. Continue blending till it is
smooth
4. Next add sodium bisulphate to water for burn-out paste
5. When acid is dissolved, add to it the glycerine(hygroscopic)
and the above prepared thickener paste and blend well
6. Prepare the padded printing surface
7. Apply the burn out paste by any form of printing source –
screen or stencil or freehand with foam or bristle brush
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StepS to be followed

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1.Allow the fabric to dry through air
2.When dried, it is taken to the ironing
table, place a cloth over it
3.Iron the fabric for about 3 – 5 minutes or
until the fabric becomes medium brown.
4.Carefully remove the burnt out areas by
hand wash or brushing off or small
vacuum
5.Wash with warm water (by hand or m/c)
by adding synthrapol detergent
6.Rinse thoroughly and hang to dry

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precautionS & inStructionS
1. Mix the thickener paste a few hours, or
even the day before you need to use
2. Make the burn-out paste just before you
are ready to use it.
3. The best paste penetration is achieved by
screen printing, followed by stencilling,
and then freehand applications
4. When working on silk/rayon velvet, it is
best to print on the back side of the fabric
rather than the pile
5. Don't overheat the burn-out areas to a
black colour, otherwise you run the risk of
permanently discolouring the fabric.
6. While working with sodium bisulphate it is
important to wear a dust/mist respirator,
rubber gloves, safety goggles, and an
apron or old clothes. Avoid contact with
skin or eyes

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diSadvantageS
Costly
When fixation temperature
is varied slightly, big colour
variation occurs and residues
can’t be removed off easily
Printing paste when used on
next day will not give a
smooth finishing
(excess=waste)
Excess time / temperature
may cause yellowing in
unprinted areas
Risky acids – skin damage

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33. THANK YOU FRIENDS 33