This presentation is all about the Fabric development specifically to Block printing by using of Natural dyes extracted from vegetables & flowers. ***Any Feedback would always be appreciated***

1. Fabric Development
Fabric development is a process of manufacturing the fabric to dyeing & printing patterns on the
textile using various printing methods i.e. block printing. Fabric preparation is also a part of
fabric development.
Fabric preparation involves the conversion of yarns into a fabric having characteristics
determined by the materials and methods employed. Most fabrics are presently produced by
weaving or knitting.
Types of Fibres
Natural fibre These fibres are obtained from plants & animals; eg. Cotton, Jute, silk, wool etc
Animal fibre Cotton and jute are plant fibre
Plant Fibre Silk and wool are animal fibre
Synthetic fibre These fibre are obtained from chemicals Eg: Nylon, Acrylic, Polyester
Manufacturing process of Fabric production
 Yarn production: Raw fibres are processed & transformed into yarn and threads by
spinning wheel
 Production process: Many individual yarns are joined together to form fabric, process of
joining yarns is called weaving & weaving is done on a loom.
 Final processing: In the final processing, it is cleansed with impurities, debris etc. it's
treated with a variety of chemicals and cleaners to remove oils, wax and other elements.
Fabrics used in Block Printing
 Silk
 Chanderi
 Maheshwari
 Tussar silk
 Kota doria (mixture of cotton & silk)
 Cotton
 60×60 cotton fabric
 50×50 cotton fabric
 40×40 cotton fabric

2. Types of Printing on fabric:
 Screen printing
 Block printing
Screen Printing: A printing technique in which a mesh is used to transfer onto a substrate.
Screen printing is also a stencil method of print making in which a design is imposed on a screen
of polyester or other fine mesh.
Block printing
Block printing is the process of printing pattern on textiles i.e. linen, cotton or silk by means of
incised wooden block. Hand Block printing is a traditional art form in India that uses carved
blocks of wood which are dipped in bright colors and stamped onto cotton or silk fabric to create
colorful textile.
Background
Block printing was introduced to the Jaipur region of Rajasthan by the Chhipa community. This
community was originally located in Bagru Village, an area now famous for its vegetable dye
and mud resist (dabu) block prints. The art of block printing has been passed down for
generations within families. The colors are dependent on the quality of the plants, water, skill
and knowledge of the master artisan.
The traditional block printing technique uses a different block for each color of the design. The
final design is a combination of many smaller patterns and motifs- each having a different color.
The printing process requires skill and time to stamp the repeating colors and patterns on the
fabric- layer by layer, color by color.
In Rajasthan, colorful Block Prints of birds, human figures, animals, gods and goddesses are
famous. The principal items printed here include sarees, colorful dresses, bed cover, curtains,
dress material, scarves and printed yardages etc. The main centers for this type of Hand Block
Printing are Jaipur, Pali, Bagru, Barmer and Sanganer.
 Calico printed bed covers, quilts and saris are famous in sanganer in Calico, outlines are
first printed, and then the color is filled in.
 Doo Rookhi printing is also famous here in which artists print on both sides of the cloth.
The sanganeri prints are done on white background and visible from small flower motifs
like sunflowers, roses, daturas, rudrakshas etc.
 Bagru is famous for its Syahi-Begar prints and Dabu prints. Syahi-Begar print is a
combination of black and yellow colour. Bagru prints are done on black, brown, beige,
and red backgrounds.

3.  Bagru prints have motifs and geometrical inlays. Dabu printing is made of mud resist
and portion are hidden from a dye by applying a resist paste.
 Barmer is known for its prints of red chilies with blue-black outlines, surrounded by
flower-laden trees & Ajrakh prints. Ajrakh are printed on both sides with intricate
woodblock designs, and dyed in indigo and crimson madder Process.
 Sikar and Shekhawati prints include the designs of horses, camels, peacocks and lions.
Types of Blocks
 Wooden block
 Outlining Block (Rekh)
 Filling Block (Gadh)
 On the basis of design
 Geometrical design blocks
 Floral design blocks
Natural dyes
 There are some dyes which are natural and made by vegetables and flowers.
 There are some vegetables & flowers by which dyes are made.
Colour dyes Vegetables & flowers
Blue Indigo, Brinjal peel
Red Carrot, Pomegranate rind, madder root
Black Rusty iron solution (iron powder)
White Lime (Chuna)
Yellow Turmeric, kesar, lemon peel, mustard
Green Spinach, coriander
Brown Walnut

4. S.N. Natural Dyes Synthetic Dyes
1. Natural dyes are made up of natural
ingredients i.e. vegetables, flowers &
plants etc.
Synthetic dyes are made up of some chemical
compounds & solution
2. Natural dyes differs area wise and state
to state
Synthetic dyes are same everywhere
irrespective of area
3. Natural dyeing saves water; Water level &
its quality (PH & TDS) are different area
wise (Rain water are considered for
dyeing)
Synthetic dyes creates pollution & consumes
lot of water in dyeing and printing as compared
to natural dyes
4. Natural dyes are little costlier than
synthetic dyes
Costing of synthetic dyes are less
5. Natural dyes are environment friendly &
no health implications
Synthetic dyes have serious environmental &
health implications
6. Colours extracted from natural sources
are earthy and subtle
Synthetic dyes often produces garish, stark or
muddy colour.
Steps of Block printing process in Natural Dyes
 Block carving: design or motifs (Wooden block or Metal block)
 Washing of fabric & drying; then fabric is stretched over the table & fixed firmly with
pins
 Natural ingredients (Natural dye + Gum paste + water)
 Extraction of dye paste
 Application of dye paste by wooden block i.e. the printing is done, from left to right, by
wooden block on fabric & slammed hard with fist
 Steaming
 Drying the printed fabric in the sun light (for Colour fixation)
 Washing & drying again

5. Ingredients involved in making dyes paste (Dabu print)
 Mud
 Natural gum
 Wheat husk (Wheat powder)
 Jaggery
 Natural colours
Block carving
(Wooden or metal
block)
Washing of fabric
(free of starch &
soft bleached)
Natural
ingredients
Extraction of Dye
paste)
Printing by
wooden block
Steaming
Washing &
drying
Steps of Block
Printing by
Natural Dyes
Drying in
sunlight

6. Dyes used in Block printing
Chemical dyes
 Pigment dyes
 Rapid fast dyes
 Discharge dyes
 Napthol dyes
Natural dyes  Indigo blue
 Vegetable & floral dyes
Key Artisan
categories
 Hand block printers (Chhipa)
 Block engravers
 Washer men (Dhobi)
 Bleachers, Dyers (Rangrez)
Boiled water taken
(1 Lt.)
Gum paste prepared
(Arabic Gum: 800
gm.)
Add the mordant (5-
10%) [For darken the
dye color]
Add required dye in
boiled water (Harda,
Kattha, Madder etc.)
Extraction of Dye paste
(150-200 ML)
Steaming (Till the
required quantity of
dye achieved)
Natural Dye
ingredients taken (200
gm.)
Process of
preparing the
Dye Paste

7. Techniques of Block Printing in India
 Direct Printing: In this technique, the cotton or silk cloth is first bleached. Then the
fabric is dyed, unless a light background is desired. Thereafter, the fabric is printed using
carved blocks, first the outline blocks, then the ones to fill color.
 Resist Printing: In the resist technique, areas that are to be protected from the dye are
covered with a mixture of clay and resin. The dyed fabric is then washed. The dye
spreads into the protected areas through cracks, producing a rippled effect. Block prints
are then used to create further designs.
 Discharge Printing: In this technique, the fabric is dyed. Then, a chemical is used to
remove the dye from the portions that are to have designs in a different color. These
portions are then treated, so they may be re-colored.
Major outlets of Hand block printing in Jaipur
 Anokhi
 Soma
 Gulabchand
 Fab india
 Dastkar hand block prints
 Sikar house

8. SWOT Analysis of Block Printing Artisans
Strengths
 Traditional printing technique.
 Explorations in the designs are always done
according to the requirement.
 The traditional block printing craft has
flourished in both export and domestic markets
 Rajasthan is one of the largest manufacturers
and exporters of block printed fabric in the
world. Block printing craftsmen use wooden or
metal blocks to create beautiful designs.
 The process uses vegetable dyes which are
chemical free & eco-friendly.
Weakness
 Block printing is a time consuming process.
 Requires skilled manpower
 Chemical dyes are being used extensively
now a days which are not environment
friendly
 Limited & repeated designs (Block motifs)
 As printing skill learnt by his family member
so it is not upgraded by time & same designs
and process are being used since years
Opportunity
 Many Indian designers are working on block
printing.
 It is cheap and easy to start a block printing
unit.
 India is having a very large no. of block
printing units.
 In recent times the export of block printed
garments have seen a steep increase as its
demand has increased especially in western
countries because of its durability and
distinctive patterns and designs.
 Development of technology like internet,
smartphone & whatsapp
Threats
 Screen-printing units sells similar products
like design, fabric etc. & less labor intensive
 Modern techniques of fabric printing are
cheaper and less time consuming, so they are
also gaining popularity affecting the market
of block printing
 Scarcity of water
 Govt. policy (as synthetic dyes are used & no
proper water treatment so they are facing the
heat of the govt.)

9. Sub sectoranalysis ofblock printing Artisans
Factor conditions  Raw material availability
 Quality of raw material
 Human resource & skill availability
 Knowledge of activity
 Availability of capital & infrastructure
Demand conditions  Potential condition of domestic market
 No. of buyers (Agents, exporters)
 Growth rate of regional demand
 Quality orientation of buyers
Firm strategy, structure
& rivalry
 No. of units
 Size of units
 Existence of rivalry (Screen printing units)
Related & supporting
industry
 Product & design development
 Marketing network
 Understanding of the market
 Training
 Research & development
Challenges forBlock Printing Artisans
 The Indian government has still not provided block printing with a ‘handicraft’ mark,
which would help them avail of various subsidies and benefits
 There is no shared design bank available for the smaller businesses, which are cash-
strapped, and there have been no efforts to develop a brand name for the Dabu prints
despite having a geographical indicators (GI) tag.
 Tough competition from screen printing units
 Scarcity of resource like qualitative raw material, water availability (ground water level
are depleting rapidly ) & fuel
 Lack of fund & finance: there are scarce resources of finance or loan
 Environmental issues as sanitation condition is not satisfactory and there are no recycling
of used water
 Insufficient income for block printing artisans & need to makes some changes in
equipment, printing process & also seeking assistance from government
 Artisans also face challenges are inadequate training & access to information for standing
in competitive market; also need some trainings on production, availability of raw
material & marketing linkages