Edible

KNOW YOUR HERBS, KNOW YOUR FARMER
Farmers Market Brunch
A TRIP TO BOUNTIFUL
SPRING 2014 • A MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES • ISSUE 23

2 edible CHICAGO | SPRING 2014
Unfiltered
FLAVORS
BY NEWTON VINEYARD
Unfiltered
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lets nature take the lead. And unfiltered rewards our passion for
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ediblechicago.com 1
SAVE YOUR APPETITE!
Edible Chicago Events
Presents
FARMER IN THE HOUSE
A CURATED EATING SERIES
FEATURING SOME OF OUR
FAVORITE LOCAL FARMERS
Join us for an opportunity to
meet up with like-minded local
foodies, farmers, chefs, artisan
food and beverage producers,
many who have been featured
in the magazine.
Our pages will come to life at
our food events.
To learn more, email us at:
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ediblechicago.com 3
Food for Thought
a few words from
edibleCHICAGO
Although it might have been
difficult during this bone-jarring,
record-setting cold and snowy
winter, it allowed us to hibernate and look
inward. Now we can embrace Spring with
the rejuvenation of our garden and the
rekindling of relationships with neighbors
and friends. What better way to welcome
the new season by sharing a brunch with
our seasonal recipes?
Or consider celebrating the season
with friends over a perfectly blended cup of
tea. In this issue we learn from Tea Master
Rod Markus of Rare Tea Cellar in Chicago
about The Art of Tea that has been part
of human culture since ancient times. We
unravel The Mysteries of Tea even further
in a conversation with Tea Master Thresa
Griffin of the Napoleona Tea Company
and pose the question What’s in Your Tea
Cup? to Lori Watts-Branch of Chicago’s
SenTEAmental Moods, who blends
herbs and flowers from local farmers into
seasonal, small batches of tea.
Medicinal herbs have been around
as long as the first cup of tea, originating
in Eastern culture, but a growing crisis
in China over tainted crops has created a
land of opportunity in our growing region.
Herbologist and owner of Inner Ecology
PUBLISHER/CO-EDITORS
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CONTRIBUTORS
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Edible Chicago® is published seasonally — four times
per year by Sweet Pea Media LLC. We are an advertiser
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independently owned and operated and a member of Edible
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Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings and
omissions. If, however, an error comes to your attention,
please accept our sincere apologies and let us know.
in Chicago, Amanda Kreiss is encouraging
and working with local farmers to grow
medicinal herbs sustainably. Learn more
in Know Your Herbs, Know Your Farmer.
Liz Fiorenza from Wind Ridge Farms
discovered a second career, growing 450
varieties of herbs on seven acres of land.
As a nurse, she understands the healing
powers of herbs. As a farmer, she shares
her crops and plant starts so others can
experience their own health benefits.
Escape the city by a scenic train ride
or by car on A Trip to Bountiful to Lake
Forest’s Elawa Farm. We venture out of the
urban jungle and tell the story of the famed
Armour family’s “gentleman’s farm” of the
1900s. Now it is bustling with a weekly
farmers market including baked goods
from Chef Mary McMahon, who goes from
garden to kitchen to market for patrons’
enjoyment.
Our Lake Effect column introduces
you to the dynamic duo behind Cookies
Carnitas, Brad Newman and Mike
Taormina. Their northside eatery is “fast
food with a farm-to-table sensibility.”
We celebrate the warmth and growth
of Spring, the natural tonic, and end of
hibernation. Read on . . .
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SPRING 2014
3 FOOD FOR THOUGHT
Editors’ Welcome
6 NOTABLE EDIBLES
Let’s Grow Food
Fearless Gardening with
The Peterson Garden Project
The Power of Seed
Food Wine, Farmers Chefs
12 COOKING WITH THE
SEASONS
The Art of Tea
by Dana Benigno
14 FARMERS MARKET
SPRING BRUNCH
17 LOCAL AND IN SEASON
18 FEATURES
Growing Herbs as Medicine:
A Land of Opportunity
by Becky Liscum
Nature’s Remedy:
Wind Ridge Herb Farm
by Terra Brockman
25 LIQUID ASSETS
Raise a Glass to Spring with
Bridget Albert
26 FROM THE GOOD
EARTH
A Trip to Bountiful: Elawa Farm
by Amelia Levin
30 KIDS IN THE KITCHEN
Sprouting New Growth: Veggie
Magic
Story by Portia Belloc Lowndes
Photographs by Kiki Belloc Lowndes
32 FEATURES
Unraveling the Mysteries of Tea
With Thresa Griffin of
Napoleona Tea Company
Interview by Ann Flood
What’s In Your Tea Cup?
Lori Watts-Branch of
SenTEAmental Moods Tea
Interview by Becky Liscum
39 THE LAKE EFFECT
Cookies Carnitas
Story by Anne Spiselman
Photographs by Kaitlyn McQuaid
42 SOURCE GUIDE
with Dine Drink LOCAL
Listing
48 EDIBLE INK
Knowing Your Seeds
Original Illustration by Bambi
Edlund
SEASONAL RECIPES
Cucumber Sandwiches with
Watercress Mayonnaise
English Scones
Honey Rhubarb Compote
Best-Ever Scrambled Eggs
Cheddar, Ham and Scallion Cups
Roasted Asparagus Frittata
Jasmine Green Tea Cured Wild
Salmon
DRINK RECIPES
The White Thyme
Iced Chai Tea
Carrot Chic
Fresh Strawberry Daiquiri
The Green Mule
ediblechicago.com 5
CONTENTS

Notable Edibles
Let’s Grow Food
It’s time to start planting your garden
Preparing your soil
When it comes time to prepare your soil mix, you’ll
need two ingredients: organic soil and organic
compost. You should be able to find these at your
local landscape supply company or garden nursery. Any organic
garden soil will do. As for compost, try to find one that’s a blend
of several ingredients (manure, leaf mold, mushrooms, etc.) or
buy a few different kinds and mix them together yourself. Good
compost should be loose and granular, dark brown in color, and
moist but not soggy. If it has a strong unpleasant odor, such as
ammonia, then it’s immature and shouldn’t be used.
To calculate how many cubic feet of soil it will take to fill
your raised bed, multiply square footage by height (depth). So
a 4’ x 4’ bed that’s one foot tall would need 16 cubic feet of soil
(4 x 4 x 1 = 16). A 4’ x 4’ bed that’s ½ foot tall would only need 8
cubic feet (4 x 4 x 0.5 = 8), and so on.
Prepare your soil mix by combining equal parts soil and
compost. You can use your hands or a garden tool such as a
trowel or spade fork. Do your mixing directly in the bed, on
a tarp, or in a wheelbarrow. If you don’t want to bother with
mixing, look for a premixed organic soil. Empty it directly into
the bed. Sift through it with your fingers, and break up any
chunks, removing twigs or debris. Spread it out until it’s level
and smooth taking care not to compact it.
If you’re using containers in addition to or in place of a
raised bed, prepare the soil in the same way. A container that’s
large or deep doesn’t need to be filled completely with soil.

Fearless Food
Gardening in
Chicagoland
The Peterson
Garden Project
ediblechicago.com 7
You can pile shredded newspaper, leaves,
rocks, or gravel in the bottom half of the
container and fill the top half with your soil
mix. Some settling will occur over time, but
the container will drain better and you’ll
end up saving a good amount of soil.
Let’s get planting!
It’s time to sow your seeds. All cool
season crops (April planting) are incredibly
easy to grow from seeds. Nurturing
crops for their full life cycle, from seed to
harvest, is a magical experience. However,
you can start young plants if you want
to reap your rewards a little sooner. We
recommend trying at least a few crops
from seed (our cool season favorites are
peas and leafy greens).
When you’re ready to start, look at
the instructions on your seed packet to
determine how far apart and how deep to
plant your seeds. To calculate seed spacing,
you can deviate a bit from seed packet
guidelines, which assume you’re planting
in rows. Usually you can situate plants a
little closer together in a raised bed than
you would in rows. So if your seed packet
says to plant Swiss chard seeds 6 inches
apart, then plant 4 seeds per square foot
(and the plants will be 4 inches a part). ec
Editor’s note:
Excerpt from Fearless Food Gardening in
Chicagoland reprinted with permission.
If growing your own food is daunting to you,
fear not—there is help out there in the urban
farmland. The Peterson Garden Project
has published a month-by-month guide to
help growers of all levels. Fearless Food
Gardening in Chicagoland (available at
Amazon.com, $16.95) by authors Teresa
Gale and LaManda Joy, Founder of the
Peterson Garden Project is a resource,
which covers everything from planning
the season to extending it. There are also
recipes that you can make from the produce
in your very own garden. ec

Hhe evolution of the seed is the first
link to the food chain and embodies
centuries-old farming traditions as
well as a celebration of diversity; a culture
of planting, saving and sharing seeds. It is
a beautiful simplicity—regulated only by
the earth’s natural intelligence and shared
by communities for generations. Insects,
birds and wind contribute to natural open-pollination.
The seed is spiritual, mystical
and is celebrated each spring by all cultures.
It feeds families, builds communities and
teaches us the value of soil, climate and the
true sustainability of life as metaphor. This is
the power of seed.
The Safe Seed Pledge, created in 1999
by the Council of Responsible Genetics,
helps to connect non-genetically modified
seed sellers, distributors and traders to a
new generation of gardeners and agricultural
consumers looking for safer seeds. The
pledge declares that the seed sellers “do
not knowingly buy, sell or trade genetically
engineered seeds”. Genetic modification
refers to the manipulation of DNA in
laboratories to change the essential makeup
of seeds, in an attempt to help make them
disease and pest resistant, and/or drought
and cold tolerant. It is powerful technology
aimed to feed masses of people around the
globe. But it’s also a part of science that is
not yet fully understood by consumers. There
are heated debates regarding the hazards
and merits of GMO crops, a vast topic for
a few words here. However, there are safe
alternatives. One can support GMO-free
seeds or grow your own open-pollinated,
heirloom variety of plants, organically and
save the seeds.
Communities are taking the lead.
Neighbors are growing their own food. “The
surge of interest in home and community
gardening highlights the desire for more
self-sufficiency around food. They want to
know where their food comes from, right
down to the seed.” Says Diane Ott Whealy,
co-founder and vice president of Seed Saver
Exchange, a non-profit located in Decorah,
Iowa dedicated to conserve and promote
non-GMO heirloom seeds and plants.
“Getting seed growing again—it’s the best
defense against challenges from industrial
seed companies.”
The Safe Seed Pledge
“Agriculture and seeds provide the basis
upon which our lives depend. We must protect
this foundation as a safe and genetically stable
source for future generations. For the benefit
of all farmers, gardeners and consumers who
want an alternative, we pledge that we do not
knowingly buy or sell genetically engineered
seeds or plants.
We feel that genetically engineered
varieties have been insufficiently tested prior
to public release. More research and testing
are necessary to further assess the potential

Notable Edibles
MIDWEST SAFE SEED COMPANIES
ediblechicago.com 9
risks of genetically engineered seeds. Further,
we wish to support agricultural progress
that leads to healthier soils, genetically
diverse agricultural ecosystems and
ultimately healthy people and
communities.”
The following Midwest seed
companies have taken a public
stand against selling GMO’s or
genetically modified seeds. These
companies sell organic, open-pollinated,
heirloom and rare varieties.
For another option for safe seeds, look
for organic plant starts at your favorite
gardening or landscaping store, or find
a local neighborhood community garden
seed swap. ec
To find a national safe seed resource list:
councilofrresponsiblegenetics.org.
Resources for this article:
seedsavers.org
foodrenegade.org
ILLINOIS
Borries Open-Pollinated Seed
Corn Farm
16293 E. 1400th Ave.
Teutopolis, IL 62467
217-857-3377
Safeguard Seeds
P.O. Box 1036
Mokena, IL 60448
855-730-7333
safeguardseeds.com
Underwood Gardens
1414 Zimmerman Road
Woodstock, IL 60098
info@underwoodgardens.com
underwoodgardens.com
INDIANA
Garden Harvest Supply Inc.
2952W 500S
Berne, IN 46711
gardenharvestsupply.com
MyPatriotSupply.com
PO Box 1795
Richmond, IN 47375
866-229-0927
mypatriotsupply.com
IOWA
Sand Hill Preservation Center
1878 230th St.
Calamus, IA 52729
563-246-2299
sandhillpreservation.com
Seed Savers Exchange
3094 N. Winn Rd.
Decorah, IA 52101
563-382-5990
seedsavers.org
MICHIGAN
Annie’s Heirloom Seeds
anniesheirloomseeds.com
Garden Hoard
gardenhoard.com
Indoor Harvest Gardens
indoorharvestgardens.com
WISCONSIN
Jung Seed Co.
Several locations in Southern
Wisconsin
800-297-3123
jungseed.com
St. Clare Heirloom Seeds
P.O. Box 556
Gillett, WI 54124
email@stclareseeds.com
stclareseeds.com

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ediblechicago.com 11
Save the Date:
Food Wine,
Farmers Chefs
at Millennium Park
One of Chicago’s favorite food festivals is showcasing local farmers
and food artisans in a big way. Bon Appetit presents Chicago
Gourmet is celebrating its seventh year this fall in Millennium
Park. The event is produced by the Illinois Restaurant Association,
which marks its 100th year in 2014. It is a celebration of Chicago’s
culinary scene where one can taste amazing offerings from
local restaurants featuring a myriad of ingredients, prepared in
imaginative ways. This year, “Chicago Gourmet will feature a
Centennial Tasting Pavilion on the Great Lawn. This specially
added pavilion will showcase throwback cocktails and the iconic
dishes for which Chicago is known,” according to Liz Sorrentino,
Executive Director of the Chicago Gourmet festival.
Sip and sample world-class food while meeting internationally
renowned Chicago chefs, master sommeliers and winemakers. The
venue will also highlight Global Street Food Market, showcasing
products from Chicago artisans and Midwestern farmers. It’s a hot
ticket that also supports our local food economy. The main event
is September 26 – 28, with additional events scheduled throughout
the weekend.
Southern Wine and Spirits of Illinois is a presenting sponsor
and Edible Chicago is proud to be a media sponsor of this event.
For information visit chicagogourmet.org. ec
Notable Edibles

I have been a coffee drinker since post-college
when my first real job required
early morning alertness. In recent
years tea and teahouses have become
popular, so I wanted to learn more about
this growing fascination.
Since I am a novice in tea, I decided to
seek out an expert. My guide to Tea 101
was Rod Markus, owner of Rare Tea Cellar,
an importer of rare fine tea and gourmet
ingredients. Rod is known among the chef
community as the tea expert locally and
nationally. When chefs are looking for new
flavors or special blends of tea for cocktails
or a tea menu, many turn to Rare Tea Cellar
as their source. It is not open to the public
but I was invited in for a visit to learn about
the world of tea.
Arriving at Rare Tea Cellar is like
entering into an amazing apothecary.
Shelves are stocked with both black and
herbal teas, along with rare and unusual
ingredients such as violet sugar, truffle
salt and specialty olive oils and vinegars.
Rod works with foragers in all areas of the
world where tea is grown to import only the
best quality and rare teas. He deals in small
quantities and limited amounts when it
comes to specialty teas or ingredients. Rare
Tea Cellar also features tea accessories for
making the perfect cup of tea.
I asked Rod to educate me on the very
basics of tea and the best way to brew and
serve it. I learned all tea—white, green,
black—comes from the same plant, the tea
tree or Camillia Senesis. The difference in
tea and all the varieties of tea are created
in the processing. Tea leaves can be hand
picked, machine harvested, fermented,
aged in oak barrels or blended with herbs or
flower petals to create the myriad of exotic
flavors. The art, says Rod, is in the blending,
aging and combining of flavors with herbs
and other ingredients. The combinations
are endless.
Tea is made up of three components—
essential oils, polyphenols and caffeine.
Polyphenols give the tea its health benefits,
the essential oils impart the aroma and
flavor and caffeine provides the natural
energy lift. One paradox I discovered is that
the best flavor comes from steeping 2 to
3 minutes, however the most antioxidants
are obtained from steeping leaves 4 to 5
minutes. For the best flavor and maximum
health benefits, splurge for an aged tea
that is naturally smoother when steeped
longer.
A key ingredient of tea is water—the
better the water, the better the tea. As
a general rule, it is best to always use
filtered or bottled water when brewing tea
especially if you are trying an expensive
tea.
Milk and sugar are offered with black
teas but it is a personal choice—like cream
for coffee. I would try it without anything
first, especially if you have invested in a
more expensive tea. You want to taste the
essence before you add anything to it.
Rod recommends loose leaf tea over
bagged tea. Brewing is as simple as
boiling a pot of water. He recommends a
tablespoon of loose leaf tea in the bottom
of a small glass pot. Bring a separate pot of
filtered or bottled water to a boil and then
let it sit for 4 minutes to cool the water to
about 180° to 190°. Pour over the tea and
let steep for 2 to 3 minutes for the best
flavor. Rod’s personal choice is Darjeeling
because it elicits the most antioxidants
and the best flavor.
While visiting Rod, I tried a Sicilian
orange Pu-erh tea, which was aged and
fermented. This tea was delicious and had a
calming and soothing affect. Rod explained
that different teas, indeed, could alter
your mood in different ways, hence, the
developing intrigue for tea. Rare Tea Cellar
also carries Queen Elizabeth’s favorite tea,
which I tasted. It is a high altitude black
tea that is hand processed and aged for
smoothness. The Queen has good taste!
Tea Processing:
From White to Green to Black
Fine tea is usually harvested by hand
with care, taking only the top two
leaves and the tea buds. Machines
tend to damage the plants. Next, the
leaves are spread out and left to wither
in order to lose some of the moisture,
between 18 to 24 hours. After the leaves
have withered, they are rolled in order to
release their juices. The cell walls of the
leaves are broken down during this part of
the process and the essential oils that are
released determine the strength, aroma
and ultimately the taste of the tea. This
is either done by hand or with a machine.
After rolling, the leaves are spread out
again in a cool damp place to oxidize or
ferment. This is when green tea leaves
turn copper. In this step, the leaves are
dried with hot air. During this part of the
process, the leaves turn from copper to
brown or black. Then tea leaves are sorted
by size and grade. The more fine and even
the grain, the more sorting has been
done and the higher the price per ounce.
Also, as fermenting time increases, more
caffeine is released which is why black tea
has more caffeine than green tea. Aging
or fermenting tea leaves helps to smooth
the tannins in the leaves that create the
chalky feeling in your mouth similar to
wine. The more a tea ages, the smoother
the brew. ec
Cooking with the Seasons
by Dana Benigno
The Art
of Tea

What to Serve with Tea
I keep it simple and serve one savory item
and one sweet. For the savory, I suggest
serving something traditional such as
cucumber sandwiches, which I like with
watercress mayonnaise sans crusts. White
peasant bread with a fine crumb works
nicely. Add smoked salmon to the same
sandwich for another option. For a sweet,
my favorite thing to enjoy with tea is an
English version of a scone, which is more
like a biscuit. I suggest serving it with crème
fraiche and a variety of your favorite jams.
Cucumber Sandwiches with
Watercress Mayonnaise
1 handful of watercress
1/3 cup mayonnaise
Several slices of white peasant bread
1 large cucumber (sliced as thin as
possible, a mandolin works nicely if
you have one)
Smoked salmon
1. Place the watercress and mayonnaise in a
food processor and process until smooth.
2. Cut the crusts off of the slices of white
bread. For elegant sandwiches either
cut the slices into a square and then cut
diagonally for triangles or use a biscuit
cutter to cut the bread into small rounds.
3. Spread a thin portion of watercress
mayonnaise on the bread. Top with
cucumber slices and smoked salmon.
Serve on a tray.
English Scones
2 cups all purpose flour
1/2 cup sugar
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/4 cup cold butter, cut into small
cubes
1/2 cup milk or heavy cream
1 egg
1. Preheat oven to 400°.
2. Combine all the dry ingredients in a large
bowl. Cut in the butter until the mixture
resembles fine crumbs. You may also do
this in a food processor and pulse until the
mixture resembles fine crumbs.
3. In a separate bowl, beat the milk and
the egg together and add to the dry
ingredients. Stir just enough to combine.
It is fine if the dough is not completely
homogenous. Over mixing will make the
scones tough.
4. Turn out dough onto a floured surface and
roll to 1 inch thickness. Cut with a biscuit
cutter and place on a baking sheet. Bake
for 10 to 15 minutes. Serve warm.
5. Serve with crème fraiche instead of butter
and a selection of your favorite jams.
Types of Tea
White The leaves are picked early when
they are still whitish in color. They are air-dried
and receive minimal processing.
Green Leaves are picked while bright
green.
Oolong Leaves are semi-fermented to
bring out compounds and to add flavor.
Darjeeling Leaves are picked early in the
season, hand rolled, fermented and aged
for smooth flavor. This comes from the
Darjeeling region of India.
Pu-erh This is both an aged and
fermented tea, the most expensive.
Black These tea leaves receive the most
processing and have the most caffeine
which makes it the most popular breakfast tea.
Guide for Your Cup of Tea
Type Steep Time Water Temperature
White 4 to 5 minutes 165° to 175°
Green 4 to 5 minutes 165° to 175°
Oolong 3 to 4 minutes 195° to 200°
Darjeeling 3 to 4 minutes 185° to 195°
Black tea 3 to 4 minutes 185° to 195°
Dana Benigno is a chef, a writer and the former
Executive Director of Green City Market. This
assignment turned out to be just her cup of tea,
as it opened up a whole new world of flavors.

After one of the longest and harshest
winters Chicago has seen in decades, we
welcome the opportunity to see neighbors
and friends and the opening of spring
farmers markets brimming with fresh
vegetables and fruits. We think it’s the
perfect opportunity to gather your friends
for an easy Sunday brunch. We’ve found
some seasonal recipes, ingredients you can
find at you farmers market or specialty
retail and online local food stores to host
the perfect brunch. You have a lot of
catching up to do. Why not over brunch?
Farmers Market
Spring Brunch
Honey Rhubarb Compote
adapted from simplebites.net
1/2 cup apple juice
2 small beets
6 cups fresh rhubarb, chopped
1/4 cup honey
1 In a saucepan, bring apple juice to a boil. Peel and slice beets
into halves and add to juice. Simmer for a minute or so until
beets begin to release their juices and color.
2. Add rhubarb and honey and stir until honey is melted and
mixture is combined.
3. Cook mixture slowly for about 8 minutes. Turn off heat and
remove beet slices from the compote. Taste for sweetness and
add more honey if desired.
4. Cool compote completely; mixture will thicken as it cools. Store
in a jar in the refrigerator for up to a week.
Maple Pepper Bacon
adapted from justapinch.com
Serves 4-8
3/4 pound thick-cut smoked bacon (16 slices)
1 to 2 tablespoons grade B maple syrup
Fresh Black Pepper
1. Preheat oven to 375°.
2. Place a baking rack on a sheet pan and arrange the bacon on
baking rack. Bake for about 7 minutes, until the bacon begins
to brown. Brush bacon carefully with maple syrup and black
pepper, flipping and brushing every 5 minutes until golden
brown or carmelized, about 25 minutes. Serve warm.
Best-Ever Scrambled Eggs
adapted from thedaringkitchen.com
Serves 4
8 farm fresh eggs
4 ounces cream cheese at room temperature and cut into
1/2-inch pieces
1 1/2 teaspoons chopped flat-leaf parsley or chives
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
21/2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1. In a large bowl, whisk the eggs just to blend. Add the cream
cheese and half of the parsley and season with a pinch of salt
and several grinds of pepper. Stir to mix.
2. Melt butter in a large, nonstick frying pan set over medium
heat. When butter has melted and is hot but not smoking, swirl
it to cover the bottom of the pan and then add the egg mixture.
With a wooden spoon or spatula, stir the eggs slowly until they
just hold together and are cooked through 21/2 to 4 minutes.
The eggs should still be moist and glistening.
3. Transfer to a serving platter and season with a few grinds of
pepper.

Cheddar, Ham and
Scallion Cups
adapted from kitchendaily.com
Makes 6
3 large farm fresh eggs
1 1/2 cups whole milk
1/4 teaspoon black pepper
2 cups Italian bread, torn into pieces (firmly packed)
5-ounce piece cooked ham, coarsely chopped
3-ounce piece sharp Cheddar cheese, coarsely
grated (1 cup)
2 scallions, finely chopped
Butter, for muffin tin
1. Beat eggs with milk and pepper in a medium bowl until
combined. Stir in remaining ingredients. Cover and let sit
overnight, chilled.
2. Preheat oven to 350° with rack in middle of oven.
3. Butter a 6-cup standard muffin tin, preferably nonstick.
Divide mixture among cups and bake until puffed and
lightly golden, about 35 minutes. Cool 5 minutes and
serve.
Roasted Asparagus Frittata
adapted from glutenfreegirl.com
Serves 8
7 eggs
Kosher salt and cracked black pepper
1 bunch fresh asparagus
2 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese
1 teaspoon smoked paprika
1. Preheat oven to 400°. Beat the eggs until frothy, adding a pinch
of salt and pepper.
2. Cut tender asparagus stalks into 1-inch pieces.
3. Place large cast-iron skillet over high heat. Pour in the oil. Add
the asparagus to the hot oil. Cook for a minute, tossing. When
the asparagus has turned bright green, remove from heat.
4. Pour egg mixture over the roasted asparagus in the skillet. Tilt
the pan around on the burner to allow the runny eggs to fill
in the empty spaces. When it looks as though the eggs have
started to set, lift the edge closest to you, gently, up from its
place, with a thin rubber spatula and let more liquid fill in. Cook
the eggs for 40 seconds or so, continuing to lift and tilt until the
egg on top is no longer runny.
5. Sprinkle cheese and smoked paprika over the surface of the
frittata. Bake the frittata until it is firm to the touch, about 5
minutes. Watch it closely.
6. Remove from oven and gently guide the rubber spatula around
the outside edges of the frittata to loosen it. Flip the frittata
onto a plate and serve.

The White Thyme
adapted from rachaelwhite.me
Makes 1 Cocktail
1 ounce fresh juice from a lemon
1/2 ounce wildflower honey
2 ounces white wine (Sauvignon Blanc or Chardonnay)
Dash of bitters
Club soda
2 sprigs of thyme plus extra for garnish
1. Fill a cocktail glass with ice. Set aside.
2. In a cocktail shaker, combine the lemon juice, honey and
thyme sprigs and muddle them together. Add the white wine
and bitters and stir with a stir stick or spoon until the honey is
fully incorporated. Pour into cocktail glass, top with a splash
or two of club soda, and garnish with a thyme sprig.
Iced Chai Tea
adapted from stashtea.com
Serves 2
4 teaspoons loose chai spice tea leaves
2 cups water
Sugar to taste
3/4 cup of milk
2 cinnamon sticks
Pinch of cinnamon
1. Combine the water and tea leaves in a small saucepan and
bring to a boil. Lower the heat to medium and let simmer for
2-3 minutes.
2. Remove from heat and strain the tea leaves. Stir in a pinch of
sugar (or more). Allow the tea to cool before setting it in the
refrigerator to chill.
3. Mix the tea with milk and serve over ice. For a slushy
consistency, pour the mixture into a blender, add several
ice cubes and blend for about 30 seconds. Garnish with
cinnamon sticks and a sprinkle of cinnamon on top.

Local and In Season
EGGS
The Renewal of the Season
You may be accustomed to seeing eggs
at the supermarket year round, but
in winter months those are likely
commodity-farmed products. Fresh-from-the-
farm eggs have a season, and that begins
right now. As the days become longer in the
spring, egg laying birds like the chicken,
quail, pheasant, duck and geese living in
natural light surroundings are at their peak
production. Light stimulates the glands that
secrete hormones that make the hen lay
eggs. The bird breed dictates the variety of
shell color but also diet determines quality
and even the color of the yolk. “Unwashed
eggs without cracks can be stored in the
refrigerator for months,” says Kim Snyder,
owner of Faith’s Farm, located in Bonfield,
IL. Snyder raises free-range, drug-free
chickens, heritage turkeys and livestock and
services the Chicago area. “Eggs do not ‘go
bad’ – they simply will dehydrate,” she adds.
To preserve freshness Snyder freezes her
eggs. “I like to freeze my eggs individually for
what I need. I place silicone muffin cups in
my muffin pan. I put one cracked egg in each
cup and freeze. When the eggs are frozen
they easily pop out of the silicone muffin
cups and I place them in freezer bags. Like
anything that is frozen there is an expansion
and the cells break – so the texture will
change, but the goodness is still there.” ec
Healthy Eggs:
What To Buy
Pastured eggs from a local farmer are the best
choice you can make for nutrition and flavor.
These chickens live outdoors in a pasture,
taking in the sunshine and eating what comes
naturally: bugs and grass. Pick up fresh eggs
at your local farmers market or farmer CSA.
When comparing farm fresh pastured eggs
to the eggs from chickens that are confined
in factory farms, the eggs of pastured hens
usually contain:
1/3 less cholesterol
¼ less saturated fat
2/3 more vitamin A
2 times more omega-3 fatty acids
3 times more vitamin E
7 times more beta-carotene
4 to 6 times more vitamin D
If you compare a conventional egg to a
pasture egg, the appearance is noticeable.
— The egg will be larger, darker and more
orange color.
— The white is bigger and noticeably
thicker.
A happier chicken produces a nutrient rich,
healthier egg.
Resource: foodrenegade.com

K n o w Y o u r H e r b s ,
Growing Herbs as Medicine:
A Land of Opportunity
Story by Becky Liscum, Photographs by Kaitlyn McQuaid
There’s a land of opportunity to grow medicinal herbs in our region.
With soil, clean seeds and a willingness to learn, farmers and
gardeners could contribute to future health.
Demand for high quality medicinal herbs grown in China is
increasing, but the supply of safe plants is dwindling. Amanda
Kreiss hopes to meet this growing demand with crops grown right
here in the Midwest by local farmers. Kreiss is the director of Inner
Ecology in Chicago, a Lincoln Park facility where medicinal herbs
from halfway across the world line the shelves from floor to ceiling
in climate controlled rooms.
Carefully researched and sourced from safe growers, there is
immense healing power stored in these jars. Herbs like the sour-tasting
white peony root, known as Bai Shao, are combined with
other medicinals and used to treat ailments or disharmonies in
the body like headaches and menstrual cramps. Then, there is
Gan Cao, or licorice root, which acts as a detoxifying harmonizer
which means this herb has the ability to elicit the helpful effects
of other herbs when melded into a prescribed formula. Natural
remedies, made from the botanicals in these jars, have been used
for thousands of years by billions of people and, over time, have
Abeen integrated into medicine as a complementary practice. t Inner Ecology, a variety of raw, unprocessed roots, dried
leaves and flowers are carefully inspected, measured,
weighed and then blended to meet the specifications of
a prescription from a certified herbal clinician. The compound is
then “decocted” —steeped in boiling water—and then turned into
an elixir, which is consumed for improved health. Inner Ecology’s
customers are skilled clinicians who order the formulas and then
dispense the remedies to their patients. According to Kreiss, they
come to Inner Ecology because they know she and her staff will
ensure the medicinal herbs are high quality, properly identified,
chemical-free and cultivated in earth-friendly ways. It’s a
painstaking, yet important process, to determine that sources from
Amanda Kreiss
evaluates herb
samples by sight,
smell and taste.

K n o w Y o u r F a r m e r
other countries are safe.
Now a board certified herbologist, Kreiss spent several intense
years studying Chinese medicine, so she could learn about the
hundreds of species of herbs and their interactions. Today, more and
more people are turning to alternative medicine, so the increased
demand for herbs from China has turned the once agrarian business
of harvesting wild herbs into an industrialized, commercial, and
largely unregulated industry there. With questions of food safety
already plaguing Asia, the herb trade is also being scrutinized more
closely.
According to Greenpeace East Asia, China uses more
pesticides than any other country in the world. The environmental
organization released a report in 2013, Chinese Herbs:
Elixir of Health or Pesticide Cocktail? This report
revealed that 48 of 65 independently tested samples
of herbs from stores in China were contaminated
due to the widespread use of pesticides. Many
of those tainted herbs are processed, packaged
and shipped to the United States, and may
end up on shelves in health food stores. “The
san-qi flower contained up to 39 different
kinds of pesticides, chrysanthemum up to 35,
wolfberry up to 25,” the report states. Most of
the herbs tested exceeded the acceptable levels
of chemicals as defined by European Union
standards.
“Due to extreme threats to the environmental
“We
are really
thinking about the
big picture of building
a healthy, localized,
domestic economy
of ecologically-based
medicine here in this
country.”
well-being in China, where we necessarily source
most of our medicinals, that quality has become less
and less dependable. And the level of transparency that
we persistently seek, is rarely forthcoming,” says Kreiss. The
spotlight currently aimed at food safety also needs to be applied
to the herbal industry and it is important to develop a reliable
domestic market, according to Kreiss. Know your herbs, know your
farmer.
—Amanda Kreiss,
Inner Ecology
Jan Kenyon, a physician from Chicago, turned to Eastern
medicine two decades ago when her son suffered severe allergies.
Over the course of her career, she began incorporating alternative
medicine into her own practice. Now, she hopes to bridge the
demand gap for high quality, sustainably grown herbs, by growing
and supplying Kreiss with some of her medicinal crops. In 2008,
Kenyon pulled up stakes in Chicago and moved to Echo Valley
Farm in the Driftless region of Ontario, Wisconsin.
Intrigued by the possibility of growing herbs for market,
Kenyon attended the Pioneers in Ecological Medicine seminar
last year sponsored by Inner Ecology, EcoVision Sustainable
Learning Center and a handful of other organizations including
FamilyFarmed.org and Growing Power. Inspired by herb grower
and educator Jean Giblette from High Falls Foundation in upstate
New York, Kenyon decided to start growing medicinal and
culinary herbs sustainably as an alternative crop.
“The learning curve is early and steep,” Kenyon
says. “We took a little space that was about 30 by
50 (feet) and it was our garlic plot before. We
chose it because it was close to the farmhouse,
we knew it had good drainage and it was near
the chicken coop, which would provide good
fertilizer.”
She started out with a business plan
and about a dozen varieties. In the first year,
Kenyon and her partner turned a small profit.
Results aren’t always immediate. Some of the
medicinals derive from roots, which can take up
to three years to grow before they are ready to be
harvested. Kenyon will expand her crops this year
and has plans to get more of her neighboring farmers
involved.
Echo Valley is a community farm and rustic learning
center, where folks share the work and the harvest. They are
growing medicinal herbs much like the ancient Chinese culture
did—mindfully, on land untouched by glaciers. “It isn’t just growing
the plants,” Kenyon says. “You know that someone is healing. As
you heal the person, you’re helping something much larger, much
bigger—you are helping the community.”

Kreiss plans to develop more long-term relationships with
farmers like Kenyon, so she can control the quality of the product
and sustain high standards for her developing distribution business.
She hopes Inner Ecology will serve as the hub for the sustainable
local herb market.
She continues to work closely with the herb farmers because
some of the plants require very specific conditions and need to be
harvested at the height of their vitality. “We work with them initially
through the trainings that happen and then through subsequent
communications. So when they send us a sample they understand
what it is we are looking for and it helps them as they continue to
develop and work with the plants that they are growing.”
Evaluating the herb samples is a sensory experience for
Kreiss. “Some aspects of the job are actually quite similar to
those of a sommelier. We need to smell them, to taste them
in order to discern comparative quality between the same herb that
may have originated from different locations.” Terroir (“the taste
of the earth”) is very important. An identical crop grown in North
Carolina can be very different from the one grown in Oregon or
Wisconsin. Soil, climate and weather conditions can affect its taste
and potency.
When herbs are received at Inner Ecology, they are carefully
logged and labeled with information about their origin and harvest
methods. Kreiss has created a transparent system to track all of her
domestic herbs, so if there is ever an issue of contamination, it can
be quickly traced back to its source.
“We are really thinking about the big picture of building
a healthy, localized, domestic economy of ecologically-based
medicine here in this country,” Kreiss says. Peonies are high on her
crop list, because they provide a critical ingredient in a number
of different concoctions. The demand for peonies would create a
steady market for herb farmers.
“We are inspired to watch a group of domestic farmers in North
America begin to re-root this medicine in a way that can bring fresh,
vital herbs to patients when they need them to heal,” according to
Kreiss.
For Jan Kenyon, it has come full circle. From learning, to growing
and now helping people with her ecologically grown crops. ec
Inner Ecology is located at 1901 N. Clybourn Ave. #304 Chicago,
IL, 773-747-1907. For more information: innerecology.com. For
more information on Echo Valley Farm: echovalleyfarm.com.
Becky Liscum is a co-publisher of Edible Chicago. Through the
course of researching this article, she realized that her mother’s
homestead in Wisconsin is close to Echo Valley Farm, near the
unincorporated town of Ontario.

Learn more about
the growing market
for medicinal herbs
and Inner Ecology.
For exclusive video:
ediblechicago.com
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,)1.
Veteran farmer Jean Giblette is passionate about restoring plant
medicine to North America. She is a founder of the High Falls
Foundation, a nonprofit organization based in upstate New York,
whose mission is to further education, research and conservation
of medicinal plants. Giblette travelled to Chicago in February
for the Pioneers in Ecological Medicine seminar to help educate
farmers about the intricacies of growing specific herbs for use as
medicinals.
Development of clean, domestic sources of ecologically grown
Chinese herbs and their North American substitutes can
take years, even decades. High Falls Foundation supports the
education and encouragement for new growers. A pioneer in the
medicinal herb growing community, Giblette shared her best
advice to new farmers. “You don’t need a lot of money to start out.
You don’t always need rich soil,” she says. “Dreaming is what helps
you do what you want to do.”
Giblette encouraged the farmers in attendance to set goals and
develop a farm plan, which should include getting the soil tested.
She suggested growers consider forest farming, or farming in
the wild—planting seeds and starters to grow in their natural
habitat, as opposed to cultivating conventional row crops. Many
herbologists, she says, are looking for wild qualities, where climate
and soil determine the potency of a plant.
Giblette’s goal in coming to Chicago for the seminar was to
encourage local production of Chinese herbal medicine. Her
dream is to improve both the health of the community and the
agricultural economy by bringing Eastern and Western medicines
closer together. ec
For more information: highfallsfoundation.org

!4RIPTOOUNTIFUL Elawa Farm in Lake Forest
We all know that “weekday”
feeling – the need to escape
the hustle and bustle of the city
and retreat to the country and find solace
in nature. Well, that’s exactly what the
Armour family did back in 1917 when they
established their own “Gentleman’s Farm”
in Lake Forest. Elawa Farm was named after
its owners, Elsa and A. Watson Armour, who
were members of one of Chicago’s most
distinguished families and descendants of
the meatpacking giant, Phillip A. Armour (as
in Armour-Eckrich Meats).
Now tucked away in a quiet residential
area of Lake Forest, a little west of
Waukegan Road on Middlefork Drive, the
Armour’s hobby farm now consists of 16
acres of prairie grass and oak preserves and
is located at the north end of the Chicago
River. Today, Elawa Farm is a non-profit
center and special events destination, jointly
operated by the Elawa Farm Foundation
and the City of Lake Forest. The property is
now complete with a working, 2.2 acre farm
and thrice-weekly “garden market” which
runs from May through October. An onsite
kitchen produces weekly specialties for the
market, using the farm’s
bounty of Midwestern
crops, while chefs and
teachers rent out the space
for adult and kid-friendly cooking classes.
Countless couples have celebrated their
marriages on the picturesque grounds of
Elawa. The property has an old hay barn
and a flower garden dotted with antique
statues. Burgundy-brick carriage houses
are connected by a cobblestone path. It
looks like something straight out of a Ralph
Lauren catalogue. All proceeds from the
various activities and events held on the
grounds are used to support the foundation,
which manages the farm’s growth and
development.
“We are blessed that A. Watson’s
granddaughters still live in Lake Forest and
have been committed to helping preserve
the grounds in collaboration with the City of
Lake Forest,” says Joanne Miller, Executive
Director of the Elawa Farm Foundation.
A community gathering place teeming
with history, Elawa also serves as a symbol
of architectural significance, originally built
by renowned architects David Adler and
Alfred Hopkins. It
has been carefully
preserved over
the years by the
Armours and other interested parties.
Perhaps even more important, Miller says,
Elawa has become a place for some serious
volunteerism. She notes, “we wouldn’t exist
without all the help we have here.”
Last year, nearly 80 active volunteers
clocked 7,358 hours on the farm, at the
market and in the kitchen. And, this number
does not include the many students who
come from local elementary, high schools
and colleges on Saturdays to work on
community service projects, like building
the on-site composting system or cleaning
out the root cellar.
“Elawa Farm is an important part of Lake
Forest that sometimes even residents don’t
know about,” says Miller. “I always seem to
be meeting new visitors who didn’t know
we existed and are pleasantly surprised and
who say how lucky Lake Forest is to have
such a gem. Many people discover the farm
after using the beautiful running, biking and
hiking trails just to west of us.”
From The Good Earth
Story by Amelia Levin
Photographs courtesy of Jack Carlson Emily Janson

The History of the
Gentleman’s Farm
The “Gentleman’s Farm” or “hobby farm”
was first established when well-to-do city
dwellers bought land in the “country” in
what is now Chicago’s suburbs. The country
estate was a place to relax and recharge
on the weekend and escape the crowded,
“dirty” and increasingly industrialized city.
These were not working farms—operations
did not support the house or income of the
owner. They were used purely for pleasure
and the land allowed them to engage in
outdoor pursuits like skeet shooting and
sleigh rides. It was a romantic notion that
still has traction today. This generation, in
its desire to “return to the land”, visits the
farmers market on weekends or takes rustic
road trips in search of a good farm-to-table
dinner.
In 1915, the Armours began building
their Lake Forest country estate, which
would serve as a weekend home, second to
their primary residence at 1200 Lake Shore
Drive in Chicago. After completing two
gatehouses on the Lake Forest grounds, the
architects, Adler and Hopkins abandoned
the idea of building a farm house and
decided to add wings to the Georgian
Colonial-style buildings instead. These
buildings would house the Armour family,
theirs guests and their staff. An outdoor
courtyard and tunnel connected the two
wings above and below ground. Elsewhere
on the property, a red brick chicken coop
sheltered a small flock of laying hens, a barn
was built for several horses and a few cows
grazed in the grass fields. Today, the garden
market operates out of an old wagon shed
in the courtyard, while weddings take place
in the high-ceiling, wooden barn attached to
one of the gatehouse wings.
In 1954, not long after the death of
A. Watson Armour, Lelia and Wallace
Carroll purchased the property, expanding
the 125 acres grounds into a 600-acre,
full working farm. When Wallace Carroll
died in 1990, Lelia kept it in the family
for a few more years. In 1998, the City of
Lake Forest, interested developers, and
the land conservation group, Lake Forest
Open Lands Association, purchased the
property, but the buildings were in such
decline, there was talk of demolition and
even selling the property for development.
Instead, a commitment was made to begin
restoration, slow and steady, first the land
and then the buildings. In 2002, the current
non-profit foundation was established as a
way to run and maintain the farm without
dipping into taxpayers’ pockets.
The Farm
Headed by Farm Manager, Jesse
Rosenbluth, the farm’s 2.2 acre “garden”
yields thousands of pounds of produce and
more than 10,000 different flowers each
season. “We grow a large mix of flowers
and vegetables,” says Rosenbluth, firing
off a list that included snap peas, kale,
broccoli, tomatoes, onions, leeks, garlic,
acorn squash, carrots, radishes, beets and
different lettuces and greens like spinach,
arugula and Swiss chard. An herb garden
produces mint, thyme, rosemary, basil and
much more. Staying true to the garden’s
history, the farm also produces 40 different
types of flowers, including pink, red, purple,

Seasonal recipes from Chef Mary
are available at ediblechicago.com
Photography Classes at Elawa
Farm
Learn from Nature Photographer
Jack Carlson
April 15 22 (2 Tuesdays): Know
Your Camera
May 9 16 (2 Fridays):
Photographing Early Spring
June 6 13 (2 Fridays): Exploring
Elawa (with Cameras!)
June 14, 21 28 (3 Saturdays)
Intermediate Photography: The
Next Level
For more information: elawafarm.org
orange and yellow zinnias, dahlias, cosmos,
snap dragons and the ever-popular, soft and
delicate peonies.
“Flowers have always been our focus and
the jewel of the garden,” says Rosenbluth.
Sold as bouquets at their garden market,
the flowers yield a much higher profit than
the vegetable crop alone.
Rosenbluth, Miller, and Garden Market
Manager, Sarah Bottner credit local
resident and fiercely dedicated volunteer,
Dee Dee Burland for rebuilding Elawa
Farm years ago. An avid gardener, Burland
attended all the city meetings related to
the future of Elawa during its transition
to a non-profit organization, according
to Miller. She also helped bring in the
first group of volunteers, who cleared the
fields of brush and buckthorn and within
two years, helped rebuild and recreate the
flower beds and the formal hedging once
held sacred by the Armours. They also
cleared space for new crops. Though well
into her seventies, Burland is still a regular
presence in the garden. During my visit to
Elawa, I spotted her in the distance pulling
weeds and surveying the grounds. “The
garden has really been a labor of love for
Dee Dee, and she is why the garden even
exists today,” says Miller.
Rosenbluth now carries the garden
torch, and through organic succession
planting and harvesting, the farm regularly
produces a supply of pesticide-free crops
throughout the season. During the winter,
he rents a greenhouse space so he can
continue growing some crops and start
the seeding process early. In March,
weather permitting, he’ll start planting the
crops for the season. By October, after he
has harvested all the remaining carrots,
radishes, squash and hearty greens, he will
plant garlic for the spring and help prepare
the beds for the cold weather to come.
“We’re always taking careful notes and
looking at what worked from last year,”
explains Rosenbluth. It is important to
understand the terroir of Lake Forest, which
is blessed with rich, healthy soil. “You have

to be aware of what works in your climate,
even 50 miles north or south of us, the soil
is radically different,” he says.
Rosenbluth also works with local chefs,
including Chef John Des Rosiers of Inovasi
in Lake Bluff, Riley Missing at Big Bowl
in Lincolnshire and several Chicago chefs
who buy his surplus and host special farm
dinners. Last year, David Blonsky of Public
House, dug a pit and roasted a whole pig for
a dinner that showcased many of the farm’s
greens, herbs and carrots, while the Lake
Bluff Brewing Company used Elawa’s hot
peppers for a spicy farmhouse ale.
The Garden Market
and Kitchen
Close to 100 shoppers will visit the
Elawa Garden Market on Tuesday,
Friday and Saturday each week
during the season. Every other Friday, is
“pie day” and it draws the largest crowds,
thanks to Mary McMahon, the award-winning,
former Executive Pastry Chef
at Trio. Now, she runs the Elawa kitchen
and creates those popular pies using local
fruit and Elawa goodies, from blueberry to
strawberry-rhubarb, nectarine-raspberry,
apple and pumpkin. When you walk through
the kitchen doors, you are instantly greeted
by the scent of pies, scones, fresh breads, and
McMahon’s revered extra chunky chocolate
chip cookies, baking in the oven.
The pea hummus has also gained
a cult following at the farmers market,
along with the weekly artisan pizzas and
seasonal soups like potato leek and kale,
Elawa vegetable and hearty squash. The
homemade soups fly off the stands even
on the hottest days. Shoppers come for the
different pestos—arugula, mint, and garlic
scape to name a few. The stands also offer
homemade baguettes, focaccia, crostinis,
croutons, beet-based brownies and
selection of dips and salsas using Elawa’s
heirloom and sweet-as-candy tomatoes.
McMahon checks in with Rosenbluth
each week to see what the garden has
produced so she can plan her menu. She
also manages her own group of regular
volunteers, many who come in each week
as early as 5am to help her prepare for the
market that day.
“The volunteers are really the heart of
this organization and I have met so many
incredible, diverse people as a result,” she
says. “Elawa is very rich in history and an
important part of Lake Forest—our mission
and goal even through our kitchen and
cooking and gardening classes is to keep that
memory alive.”
Though the market sells mostly Elawa
Farm produce and specialties from the
kitchen, Bottner and team will also source
other seasonal, local specialties they don’t
grow on site. They will pick up Michigan
berries, apples and cider at the Lake Bluff
farmers market and eggs from Prairie
Crossing. Katherine Anne Confections
and Rare Bird Preserves have also made
appearances and last year the market
showcased a local meat producer as a guest
vendor. Bottner hopes to expand upon that
this year.
“I think what makes us different from
traditional farmers markets is not only the
fact that we mainly showcase ourselves, but
also that we’re selling on-site—our shoppers
can literally walk the garden and see where
the beets that they just bought are growing.”
With the gardens and grounds buzzing
with activity from spring to fall, Elawa
has involved the local community. Years
later, this “Gentleman’s Farm” has become
everyone’s farm. ec
Elawa Farm is located at
1401 Middlefork Dr., Lake Forest, IL
847-234-1966
Hours: 9am to Dusk.
For more information: Elawafarm.org.
Amelia Levin is a chef and author who is
always looking for inspiration. She often
finds it in a garden or on a farm. She is a
regular contributor to Edible Chicago.

There are many “R” words in our household vocabulary these days
as we work at being a more sustainable family. Recycle, repurpose,
reuse, refinish and reclaim to name just a few. And, then there
is re-grow, the “R” word that most intrigued my kids because it
doesn’t make sense. How do you grow something that doesn’t
start with a seed?
There are at least a dozen items out there that you can re-grow.
Some of the more successful ones we have tried are
scallions, leeks and potatoes.
This winter has been brutal in Chicago and, as a parent,
finding things to do indoors on those sub-zero days has been a
challenge. On top of having cabin fever, we are yearning for a dose
of something green. When it was a little too early to grow “starts”
in the garden, we created our little indoor scallion farm, which we
began with a bunch of organic scallions.
Scallions are an easy and fast vegetable to re-grow—you can
expect a fresh bunch every 7-10 days. Fast is good with kids. They
will see measurable daily growth with this project and the best
way to document this is to take a picture every day. I first learned
about this particular re-growing trick one summer in northern
Wisconsin when getting to the closest grocery store for scallions
was more of a hassle then it was worth. My friend told me that all
I needed to do was buy a big bunch of scallions once and I could
keep that bunch re-growing on my kitchen counter throughout
the summer. As long as there is sun coming into the house, you
can re-grow your scallions. You may never have to buy green
onions again. ec
1. Use the bottom 3 inches of the scallions, making sure to leave
the roots on.
2. Fill a clear glass jar with about 1 inch of water.
3. Place the scallions in the jar.
4. Place the jar in a sunny spot. Don’t place the jar on a window
sill in the winter, because it will be too cold there for them to
grow.
5. Change the water daily.
6. Take a picture of the scallions every day to record their growth.
7. Harvest and start over. You can plant these starts in dirt in
either a pot or in the garden when the soil is warm enough.
Kids In The Kitchen
Story by Portia Belloc Lowndes
Photographs on this page by Kiki Belloc Lowndes
Sprouting
New Growth:
Veggie Magic
for Kids

Growing Potatoes:
It’s in the Bag
Another great “re-growing” project to do in the summertime is
growing potatoes in a bag. What I love about this project is that
you do not need a garden and it does not take up much room. This
is a great project for those who only have a small balcony. Trust
me, when it is harvest time, jaws will drop—what started out as a
small number of older potatoes has now turned into a bag full of
fresh, new potatoes. All you need are seed potatoes, some soil and
a container. Seed potatoes are merely older potatoes that have
grown “eyes”, or sprouts.
Prepare your potato “seeds”. Use potatoes that have eyes
on them. These are typically potatoes that are a few days past
their prime usage. The eyes may have already sprouted. Organic
potatoes are the best. Sweet potatoes take three times as long
and I would not recommend russet potatoes—my attempts with
that variety have not been successful. I have had the best luck
with fingerling potatoes or baby reds. Cut the potato into pieces
around 2 inches square. Make sure each piece has 2-3 eyes on
it. Place the pieces on newspaper and leave them out at room
temperature for a couple of days to dry out. This will prevent the
potatoes from rotting.
1. Fill a paper bag or container with organic potting soil mix up
to 1/3 full. Roll or fold the sides of the bag down. 2. Pierce your potato bag in several places to allow for
drainage. Press about 4-6 potatoes on the top with the eyes
facing up. 3. Cover the potatoes with about 3 inches of soil/compost,
water and put in a sunny location. You want a location that
receives at least 6-8 hours of sunlight per day. The shoots
will emerge in about 7 days. 4. Cover the shoots with potting soil when they emerge again.
Keep adding more soil and unrolling the bag to support it
each time the shoots become visible. When the bag is full of
soil, leave the potatoes to mature.
When you see flowers blooming, you will probably have some tiny
potatoes in the bag, but be patient, let them grow for about 90
days. Wait until the flowers fall off and the vines start to wither.
You can now harvest your crop. ec
Portia and Kiki Belloc Lowndes spent the long winter re-growing
carrots, leeks and celery. They plan to add ginger to their collection
and plant the crops in the ground this spring. Daughter Kiki is also a
budding photographer who loves to document her projects.
Scallions, also known as spring
onions, are milder in flavor than mature
onions and are harvested before the
bulb fully forms. They come from the
same species as chives, the Allium
family. Scallions may be cooked, either
whole or chopped and can be enjoyed
fresh in salads, soups and stir fry dishes.
Storing is easy: Place scallions in a jar,
cover with a plastic bag and secure with
a rubber band. Scallions stay crisp for
about a week. Check and remove wilted
outer layers if necessary. They also
freeze well. Chop them before putting in
a bag or container. The flavor stays fresh
and they defrost quickly. Scallions also
thrive in a jar when placed on a sunny
windowsill. When the weather becomes
warmer, they will continue to grow. ec

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:LQG5LGJH+HUE)DUP by Terra Brockman
,t was a bitter four degrees below zero on
the January day that I talked with herb
farmer, entrepreneur, and teacher Liz
Fiorenza. The previous day her cell phone had
been so cold that my call hadn’t gone through,
but today Liz was working in her greenhouse,
on her farm in Caledonia, Illinois where it was
a balmy 75 degrees and bursting with new
plant life.
The greenhouse and the seven acres of
herbs surrounding it have created a second
career for Fiorenza. She hasn’t left her first
career yet, she still works as a registered nurse.
“It comes in handy when you need cash for a
greenhouse, or you decide to re-do all your
product packaging and labels,” Fiorenza says.
Although Wind Ridge Herb Farm
requires more time that most full-time jobs, “I
don’t get tired of doing this,” Liz says. “I get up
every morning and get to go outside and get
dirty!”
Her energy and good spirits show just
how far she has come from the woman who
used to suffer from chronic health issues to the
woman who started her own herb farm and
business. She began her journey as a hobbyist
with just four herb plants in her formal garden
and is now a farmer growing and processing
450 varieties of herbs on seven acres. When
Western doctors and medicines failed to
cure her condition, Fiorenza, upon the
recommendation of her nurse friends, turned
to herbs. “Everything that I tried worked,” she
says, “it seemed almost miraculous.”
Soon she was using herbal teas, essential
oils, and tinctures not only for herself, but
to treat her children’s colds and flu as well.
Suddenly their ailments seemed minor and
only lasted a couple of days instead of a week
or longer.
+HDOLQJ+HUEV
The healing properties of herbs have
been recognized throughout most of human
history. Sophisticated Chinese and Ayurvedic
herbal medicines were used
and passed down through
oral tradition for thousands
of years before they were
finally committed to paper.
In Western cultures, herbal
medicine can be traced
back to Hippocrates, often
called the father of modern
medicine. He based his
gentle treatments on the
healing power of nature. His
famous dictum, “Let food be
thy medicine, and medicine
be thy food,” was followed by renowned
herbalists including Avicenna from Persia,
Galen from Rome, Paracelsus from Germany
and Culpepper from England. Most of the
first modern pharmaceuticals have their
origins in herbal medicines. Today, about 25%
of the drugs manufactured have botanical
origins. While most Western medicines are
now synthesized, in Germany there are still
some 700 plant-based medicines available
and 70% of the German physicians prescribe
them for their patients.
Fiorenza advocates using the whole plant
and believes that isolating and concentrating
just one active ingredient may not be the most
effective treatment. Because humans and
plants evolved together, “I think the whole
plant is beneficial because your body will
utilize it and accept it more readily when you
use it the way it’s supposed to
be used.”
One way to use the whole
plant medicinally is as a tea,
and Fiorenza formulates
some of her teas to treat
specific ailments. Her lemon
balm tea has a mild lemon
flavor, but the leaves contain
powerful antioxidants and
phytochemicals that help
soothe coughs, headaches
and some forms of asthma.
Liz also formulates a special
Because herbs in
general are high in
vitamins, minerals and
anti-oxidants, if you
make them a regular
part of your diet,
you’ll find tremendous
benefits to your health
in the long term.
—Liz Fiorenza,
Wind Ridge Herb Farm
cold and flu tea that takes advantage of the
antiviral properties of ginger, lemon balm
and elderberries, plus she adds lots of vitamin
C from orange peel, rose hips and hibiscus
flowers.

:hile Fiorenza does grow some
strictly medicinal plants (fo-ti,
astragulus, wormwood), most of
the hundreds of herbs she harvests are used
to enhance and accent foods. She points out,
however, that the culinary and medicinal uses
always overlap. All 26 varieties of basil grown
on the farm are delicious when used on pizza,
pasta or made into a pesto, but they also have
strong anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial and
antioxidant properties. In Chinese medicine,
basil is thought to support and enhance kidney
function and, in classic Indian medicine, basil
has been used to treat everything from ear
aches to malaria to arthritis.
Tulsi, or holy basil, is said to be particularly
effective as an immune boosting tea, either
on its own or combined with other immune
boosting herbs such as astragalus and
vitamin-C-rich rosehips. Within the Indian
culture, it is traditional for people to keep tulsi
plants in their homes and gardens and drink
the tea or incorporate the leaves into various
dishes they eat on a daily basis.
This routine use of herbs is exactly what
Liz recommends. “Just add herbs you like
and are familiar with to the foods you eat
every day. Because herbs in general are high
in vitamins, minerals and anti-oxidants, if you
make them a regular part of your diet, you’ll
find tremendous benefits to your health in the
long term.”
Fiorenza is heartened that more and
more people are buying herb starts and
creating small kitchen gardens or placing a
pot or two of herbs on their balcony or porch.
Her potted herb and vegetable start business
has really taken off in the past few years and
now accounts for nearly 70% of her business.
Fiorenza attributes this new interest in herbs
to the fact they are easy to grow and people
want to know how and where their food is
grown. But, mostly it’s because of the way they
taste.
“There’s such a difference in taste and
quality between what you grow yourself and
what you can get at the store. And it’s so easy
to pinch off a few leaves and liven up just about
anything. Plus just one herb plant can supply
your kitchen all season long.”
For those who don’t have a green thumb,
Fiorenza has developed a robust product
line. “We have dried culinary herbs, infused
vinegars, herbal teas, dips, seasonings.
Everything is salt-free, sugar-free and
preservative-free. We personally grow,
harvest, inspect, dry and package the herbs
in order to guarantee quality. For me, it’s all
about good, healthy products. I’m very picky...
or you could say I have great quality control.”
Wind Ridge Herb Farm products used
to be available at some farmers markets and
at her retail farm store, but Fiorenza realized
that she couldn’t take all that time away
from the farm. “A good business person has
to recognize what does and doesn’t work for
you or your customers,” she says. “You have
to adapt and evolve.” So a year ago, Fiorenza
closed her retail location and now sells strictly
wholesale. Her herb and vegetable plant starts
are now available at many garden centers in
Chicago.
“Educating people on a healthy lifestyle,”
is just as important as growing and marketing
quality herb products, according to Fiorenza.
So, she also finds time in her busy schedule
to give lectures about the many benefits of
herbs and Wind Ridge Herb Farm is open for
garden tours and farm lunches and dinners.
Ultimately, Wind Ridge Herb Farm is
all about quality of life. “I love to cook and I
love to grow things,” says Fiorenza. “I wanted
healthier options for my family and I knew
herbs had medicinal qualities. What I’m doing
now is just sharing all of this goodness with
others.” ec
Wind Ridge Herb Farm is located at 466
Quail Trap Road in Caledonia, IL 61011.
815-885-1444. For more information:
windridgeherbfarm.com
Terra Brockman is an author, speaker and
sustainable food activist. During farmers
market season she is often greeting customers
at the Brockman family farmstand at the
Evanston farmers market. Her favorite way
to enjoy herbs is in a pesto, straight from the
garden.

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Common culinary herbs not only bring added interest and pleasure
to your meals, they also boost your general health in many ways. In
Germany, the equivalent of the US Food and Drug Administration
has a scientific advisory board, Commission E, which reviews and
approves herbal medicines. Between 600 and 700 plant based
medicines are available and are prescribed by some 70% of German
physicians.
Although there is no equivalent “Commission E” in the United
States, public dissatisfaction with the cost, efficacy and side effects
of prescription medications, combined with an interest in returning
to natural or organic remedies, has led to an increase in herbal
medicine use. Here are five common culinary herbs, along with
their medicinal qualities.
Parsley: The characteristic flavors and medicinal qualities
come mostly from its volatile oils and flavonoids: apiole, myristicin,
terpinolene, appin and others. Parsley is approved by Germany’s
Commission E for treatment of urinary tract infections and kidney
and bladder stones.
Lavender: Pale purple
buds, with their distinctive
perfume and herbaceous
undertones, have been used in
teas and sweets. Calming and
soothing, lavender has long been
used to treat migraine headaches
and sleep issues. It is approved by
Commission E for aiding the loss
of appetite, insomnia and circulatory disorders.
Sage: The soft, fuzzy sage leaves with their deep fragrance
and rich flavors have been approved by Commission E to improve
appetite and to ease inflammation.
Rosemary: Pine-needle-like leaves are rich in rosmarinic
acid and many other antioxidants, making it a powerful anti-inflammatory.
Commission E has approved rosemary to treat
blood pressure problems, digestive upset and rheumatism.
Peppermint: With its lively aroma and bright flavor,
peppermint varieties have long been used in teas, particularly for the
treatment of colic and digestive problems, including irritable bowel
syndrome and is also generally used for the relief of cold and flu
symptoms. Peppermint leaves have been approved by Commission
E for the treatment of liver and gallbladder problems. ec
— Terra Brockman
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3URGXFWV
Wind Ridge Herb Farm Annual On-Farm Plant Sale:
May 2-4, 9-11, Caledonia, IL
Chicago Botanic Garden Farmers Market, Glencoe, IL
Choices Natural Market, Rockford, IL
Christy Webber Landscape, Chicago, IL
Hyde Park Produce Market, Chicago, IL
Wasco Nursery, St. Charles, IL
Green Box Boutique, Woodstock, IL
Door to Door Organics, Chicago, IL
Lynfred Winery, Roselle and Wheeling, IL
Nature’s Country Cupboard, South Haven, MI
Salem Apothecary, Salem, IN
Northwest Metal Craft, Arlington Heights, IL
Vignettes of Arlington, Arlington Heights, IL
Burlington Garden Center, Burlington, WI
Common
Culinary Herbs
in Season
Chamomile
Chives
Cilantro
Dill
Fennel
Lovage
Mint
Oregano
Parsley
Shiso
Sweet Basil
Tarragon
Thyme
Let food be
thy medicine
and medicine
be thy food.
~Hippocrates

Warmth and sunshine never felt so good after the winter
we’ve just experienced. There are plenty of reasons to
welcome Spring and here are some cocktail beauties to raise
a glass and cheer the growing season. Recipes adapted from
Market Fresh Mixology by Bridget Albert and Mary Barranco.
Carrot Chic
A fresh welcome to Spring.
1 1/2 ounces carrot juice (from about 2 medium carrots)
1/2 ounce fresh sour
1 1/2 ounces orange vodka
1/2 ounce triple sec
Baby carrot (for garnish)
Rim Ingredients
3 bar spoons super fine sugar
1/2 bar spoon ground ginger
Lime wedge
1. Add carrot juice, fresh sour, orange vodka and triple sec
to mixing glass. Add ice. Cover and shake well. Strain into
cocktail glass. Garnish with a baby carrot.
2. To rim the glass: measure sugar and ginger onto a small
plate. Stir. Rim outside of glass with lime wedge. Roll the
outside of glass in sugar mixture. Set aside.
Fresh Strawberry Daiquiri
A traditional daiquiri with a kiss of Spring.
2 sliced strawberries (optional)
1/2 ounce orange liqueur (optional)
1 1/2 ounces white rum
1 bar spoon super fine sugar
Juice of 1/2 a pressed lime
Whole strawberry (for garnish)
Rim Ingredients
4 bar spoons super fine sugar
Lime wedge
1. In mixing glass, muddle strawberry slices and orange
liqueur, if using. Add rum, sugar, and lime. Add ice. Cover
and shake well. Strain into sugar-rimmed glass. Garnish
with a strawberry.
2. To rim the glass: Measure sugar onto a small plate. Rim
the outside top of the glass with the lime wedge. Roll the
outside lip of the glass on the sugar. Set aside.
The Green Mule
A fresh twist on the classic Moscow Mule.
3 zucchini wheels
1 cucumber wheel
Juice of 1 lime wedge
2 ounces vodka
4 ounces ginger beer
Zucchini stick (for garnish)
1. In short glass, muddle zucchini, cucumber, and juice
squeezed from lime wedge.
2. Add vodka. Fill glass with crushed ice and top with ginger
beer. Stir well. Garnish with a zucchini stick.
Liquid Assets
Raise
a Glass
to Spring
Reprinted with permission
from Market-Fresh Mixology:
Cocktails For Every Season
by Bridget Albert and Mary
Barranco, Agate Surrey,
March 2014
Photography by Tim Turner
and Larry Fox

Unraveling the
Mysteries of Tea:
Tea Master
Thresa Griffin of
the Napoleona
Tea Company
Interview by Ann Flood
AF: There’s always been a certain mystery
around the tea—from where it comes from,
how it’s grown and harvested, to the choices
of teas to drink and the history behind it.
More chefs are using tea as an ingredient in
food and cocktails. How were you drawn into
the world of tea?
TG: Tea is fascinating to me. After water,
tea is the number one beverage consumed
on the planet. I love history and the story
of tea is actually many stories, over many
centuries, across many lands. It has been
said that if you want to know history, follow
tea. So, there is always something more
to learn, which keeps me interested and
inspired.
AF: How does one become a tea expert or tea
master—through traditional education?
TG: To become very knowledgeable
about tea is an ongoing journey of
experience and discernment. Traditional
cultures often pass knowledge of tea
from generation to generation by
actually living the life of tea—growing,
cultivating, harvesting and savoring
tea. I have witnessed this in multiple
places of my own travels to Asia and
other countries. Tea offers a lifetime of
learning. I was fortunate to be able to
understand and appreciate tea not only
from my own explorations, but also from
a very learned Tea Master. And I became
a tea master myself after more than two
years of dedicated study.

AF: How do you choose your teas?
TG: I personally select my teas from my
own travels to family farms and the people I
meet along the way. I am ways searching for
locations and tea gardens with interesting
stories. Those stories are very important
to me, as they provide the history of the
family, their process and environs, which
all influence the taste and experience of the
specific tea, its terrior. I personally prefer
single estate or single origin teas, which
means that the tea comes from one estate of
plantation and is not blended with teas from
another estate.
AF: Is there a particular tea farmer or
experience that had a certain impact on you,
that reached you on a more personal level?
TG: Stories and moments… these are so
important to the understanding of tea. One
of my fondest experiences from early on
has been the time we spent with a couple
in Wuyi Shan, China, whose family lived
in and owned an amazing tea valley. We
spent hours and hours trekking their land—
through tea bushes that were centuries
old, pathways and stepping stones carved
by their ancestors, streams and hidden
little pools of water where they played and
bathed as children. And, the land holds
a very famous ancient temple where the
owners grew up. Upon a little wooden table
set with fresh oranges and melon seeds, we
shared their Da Hong Pao (Big Red Robe)
tea. What a magical place to grow up.
AF: Are the teas you pick harvested without
the use of chemicals?
TG: In many areas—high elevation teas, for
example, pesticides are neither needed or
of any interest and the traditional practices
do not allow for it. The time-honored
practices that these farmers use to produce
these gorgeous teas are also important to
me. Organic is important and we offer an
extensive variety of organic teas. Further,
I note how a tea makes me feel and those
factors into my selection. Many tea-growing
cultures know that tea holds energy—qi.
Some of my teas are calming, some are
energetic, and some keep me focused. It’s
all very interesting and very real.
AF: There’s a difference between fresh tea
and the tea you would find at a grocery store.
Can you describe the difference?
TG: Freshness is vital to a vibrant tea taste;
for many of out teas, we receive notification
once teas are harvested, processed and
ready to ship. We also purchase and pack
our teas in quantities that will ensure a
quick turnaround. Like fresh produce from
the farmers market, our teas are grown,
harvested and packed with care by families
and organizations that carry on the tradition
of tea with real pride. This is a different
experience from grocery store purchasing,
with shelves of teas that may only reach the
stores 6 months or more after harvest and
shipping. This is a difference to understand
and appreciate, and then savor in a cup.

AF: How do you package your teas?
TG: We offer loose tea in a variety of
packaging options—all of our packages are
eco conscious from the small paper packs
to larger paperboard canisters. To keep our
products cost effective and very fresh, we
offer our premium and artisan teas as an
online emporium and ship our teas from our
location in Libertyville, Illinois worldwide,
usually the same day.
AF: How do you make the perfect cup of tea?
TG: Just three main factors will make
a great cup of tea: selection along with
quantity of the tea you like, the temperature
of the water and the steeping time. That’s
really it but time and temperature do vary
with the tea. We label each of our packages
with quantity, steeping time and water
temperature to ensure that you get the
perfect cup of tea.
AF: Any books on tea for a novice drinker
that you can recommend?
TG: Tea expert Helen Saberi wrote Tea: A
Global History a few years ago, which offers
an informative, easy to digest reference on
tea, with recipes as well. James Norwood
Pratt has also written a series of books, and
he is well respected in the field.
AF: Do you offer classes?
TG: We offer small group and private tea
classes and are expanding these classes
this year with more tea tastings and food
pairings. We are also investigating tea tours
in the upcoming year. Sri Lanka will be
our first tea tour: a one week “farm to cup”
adventure focusing on all things tea—living
on a plantation, hand-plucking tea in the
fields, exploring the culture and not only
drinking it, but enjoying tea in local dishes.
Many cultures have this tradition of eating
tea, for health and for the taste in both
savory and sweet dishes. ec
For more information: napoleonatea.com
Ann Flood is Co-publisher of Edible
Chicago and is discovering a whole new
world of tea choices.

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Recipe adapted from Chef Sanford D’Amato
Serves 6 to 8, make ahead
1 pound center-cut filet of fresh wild salmon, skin-on, about
¾-inch thick (ask fish monger to remove pin bones)
Dry Cure:
2 teaspoons Jasmine Green Tea
1/2 cup kosher salt
6 tablespoons granulated sugar
4 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper
1. Place the tea and half of the salt in a mini-food processer and
grind until fine. Mix together with the remaining ingredients for
the cure.
2. Cut the salmon filet in 2 equal pieces. Place one piece of the
salmon skin side down in a stainless or glass pan just large
enough to hold it. Spread the dry cure evenly over the salmon
filets on the flesh side. Place the other side of the salmon on top
of the first filet, flesh to flesh. Cover with plastic wrap and place
another smaller pan on top, then place a weight (at least 5 to 7
pounds) on top of that and refrigerate for 24 hours.
Exclusive recipe courtesy of James Beard Award winning
Chef Sanford D’Amato, author of GOOD STOCK:
Life on a Low Simmer. Recipes for drained beech
mushrooms, lemon jam, tea gel and frisée can be found
at ediblechicago.com.
Tea used for this recipe is Jasmine Green Tea from
the Napoleona Tea Company. For more information:
napoleonatea.com.
3. The next day, open the filets and baste them with the
accumulated juices and reverse the positions of the filets (bottom
on top, etc.), then repeat above process. On the third day, remove
the cure from the filets—the fish is now ready to serve. Carefully
scrape off any dry cure left on the fish. Cut thin slices off of the
skin and garnish with drained beech mushrooms, lemon jam, tea
gel and frisée.

What’s in Your Tea Cup?
Local Blends by Lori Watts-Branch of SenTEAmental Moods Tea
Interview by Becky Liscum
Tea may be harvested half way around the
world, but there’s a little bit of Illinois in Lori
Watts-Branch’s cup. She is the creator of a line
of teas that blend locally grown herbs and flowers
together in seasonal, small batches for a unique taste.
SenTEAmental Moods can be found at several Chicago
area farmers markets, and select specialty stores.
BL: Tea can be for a wide range of palates, from
those who drink from one basic tea style to folks who
take in the sensory experience of tea with different
herbs. What lead you to go beyond just sourcing and
selling quality tea leaves and into creating different
blends?
LWB: My primary goal has always been to provide
a healthy and tasteful beverage for my customers.
I have found that many people want to enjoy tea
for the health benefits, but don’t care for the taste
of traditional teas. A popular way of compensating
for this problem is overloading tea with sweeteners,
which then diminishes the health benefits. I blend
generous amounts of fruits, vegetables, herbs and
flowers to boost the flavor profile. I also offer tisanes
which are herbal blends, and have no caffeine.
BL: How do you come up with the different blends?
And their names?
LWB: Sometimes an idea will just pop in my head, or
a customer may ask about a particular ingredient. A
few ideas have come from farmers who are seeking
new ways to put their crops to good use. Naming is
the fun part. A few names stuck during the creation
of a blend. Once we asked customers to name blends
and came up with “Big Blue Sky” and “Strawberry
Fields”. We will be doing more of that at farmers
markets.
BL: Tell us about your philosophy of sourcing local,
organically grown herbs? Why is it important to you?
LWB: My relationship with local farmers has made me
appreciate the importance of the farming industry.
Farmers have proven to be a far more reliable source
of information to me than any other type of research.
They educate me on crop quality and flavors.
BL: What is the most unlikely herb or flower you have
incorporated into a blend?

LWB: The most unlikely ingredients I use are
tomatoes and sweet potatoes. I tend to use herbs
with caution because of the medicinal qualities.
BL: How do you enjoy your tea? Do you start with
taking in the aroma?
LWB: When examining teas, I always smell before
cupping. I can tell if tea leaves are stale or over
exposed by their smell. Quite honestly, if something
doesn’t smell good, you are generally not going to
want to consume it.
BL: People have been aware of hibiscus tea, but may
be less familiar with other flowers that can impart
flavor to tea. What other flowers do you use?
LWB: Tea leaves are the product of the Camilla
Sinesis plant primarily grown in south east Asia and
Africa. Flowers, roots, bark and other parts from
other plants are not tea, but can be brewed as tea.
The hibiscus flower is very popular known for having
a tart flavor. I also use chamomile, cornflowers, roses
petals, sunflowers, and jasmine.
BL: Tea is often very centering for people, and also
has health benefits.
LWB: I don’t make medicinal claims on teas or
tisanes. However, I truly believe that taking a moment
every day to calm down with tea lowers stress. Stress
plays a large role in triggering health problems.
BL: Are there culinary uses for your teas?
LWB: Our blends have been used by Katherine
Ann Confections in truffle and marshmellow
recipes, JoSnow Syrup in a jello recipe. We are also
experimenting with some bakers. ec
For more information: senteamentalmoods.com.
Becky Liscum is Co-publisher of Edible Chicago
and loves the aroma of blended teas.

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The Lake Effect
Story by Anne Spiselman
Photographs by Kaitlyn McQuaid
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The Sweet and The Savory
Cookies Carnitas is one of the more unusual food
businesses to be born at Chicago’s Green City Market.
Brad Newman and Michael Taormina started the stand
in the spring of 2011 to showcase the taste of pork from Becker
Lane Farms and their venture has been growing ever since. With
the December 2013 debut of their eponymous bricks-and-mortar
restaurant in Chicago’s Edgewater neighborhood, the evolution
promises to continue.
While they say the odd name Cookies Carnitas mostly
reflects the initial Green City Market menu, Newman
and Taormina have shared a vision for this concept
ever since they met. A mutual friend introduced them
when “Mikey,” as Brad calls him, moved to Chicago
from San Francisco six years ago. “We both grew up
in diverse neighborhoods, Mikey in San Jose and me
in Chicago,” Newman explains. “And, what we saw on
the streets were multifaceted, multicultural spots like
combination panaderias/pizzerias and panaderias/
taquerias. We wanted to do something that was fast food
with a farm-to-table sensibility. In other words, slow food
served fast.”
Both men had spent their entire adult lives in the hospitality
industry, so they had a good sense of the challenges they would face.
Newman, went to Spain and cooked for 18 months at a Madrid hotel
after graduating from the Culinary Institute of America in 1997.
When he returned to Chicago, he worked at restaurants ranging
from Charlie Trotter’s to the University of Chicago Quadrangle
Club. He also spearheaded an experimental program at the Francis
W. Parker School and Latin School of Chicago where everything
served to the students—breads, juices, pickles—was homemade.
Taormina was a bartender and server in California. He says he
moved to Chicago to get “back of the house experience,” although
he also waited tables at local restaurants, among them Room 21
and Perennial Virant. Newman hired him to help with the school
program. He specialized in baking.
The Green City Market project came about when a good
friend who sold raw Becker Lane pork at the market, suggested
Newman and Taormina cook the pork to show off the
quality of the product. This friend, David Yourd of JDY
Gourmet, also introduced them to farmer Jude Becker,
who produces “world class” organic pork from hogs
that are half Chester White and half Berkshire. They
were impressed by Becker’s progressive approach
and his client list of top restaurants.
The first summer, they began with an Italian
classic: porchetta. “We cooked whole pork middles,
which weigh about 65 pounds deboned, right at the
market, on an antique Rotisol rotisserie mounted on the
back of a motorcycle trailer that Mikey hauled with his Nissan
Altima,” Newman recalls. “We’d pull the pork off the rotisserie with
the crispy skin, slice and serve it on toasted homemade ciabatta
rolls, slathered with onion jam and fresh coleslaw in a vinegar-based
dressing.” The sides were potato chips fried in pork fat and
chiccarones made from the pork skin. In keeping with the theme,
they also used rendered pork fat for cookies featuring oatmeal from
Three Sisters Farm and dried Michigan cherries from Seedling
Fruit, both fellow market vendors.
“We got a lot of business right off the bat, thanks partly to the
Mike Taormina and Brad Newman of Cookies Carnitas
“We
wanted to
do something
that was fast food
with a farm-to-table
sensibility, in
other words, slow
food served fast.”
—Brad Newman,
Cookies Carnitas

built-in audience of market-goers,” Taormina says. Later in the
season, the pair introduced their signature carnitas sandwiches.
When the weather got colder, they added chili to the menu, which
they continued to serve when the market moved inside for the winter
at the Peggy Notebaert Nature Museum in Lincoln Park. The second
summer, they stopped lugging around the rotisserie and brought
a Big John charcoal grill instead. “We could heat big pots of the
carnitas and chili on it and grill the ciabatta,” Newman explains.
For the carnitas, Newman slow cooks picnic-cut pork shoulder
and pork butt with a mix of five chilies from Genesis Growers. He
dries the chilies and braises the pork with water, local beer, orange
juice and mirepois. Five chilies including guajillo, piquillo, chipotle,
ancho and poblano, pork shoulder and black beans from Nichols
Farm go into the chili.
When they scored 800 pounds of premium pork bellies from
Becker Lane, they also added pork belly sandwiches to the menu.
Newman dry-roasts the meat with a rub, then braises it, slices it
thick and grills it over charcoal at the market. A new cookie joined
the lineup too. Similar to a toll house cookie, it incorporates bacon
instead of chocolate chips and is glazed with Burton’s maple syrup,
a bit like a doughnut.
This winter at Green City Market, they only made a few minor
changes. They brought in a portable electric grill, which they used
to sear pork belly. The meat is tucked into soft El Milagro corn
tortillas to create made-to-order tacos. The tacos are then topped
with cabbage from Nichols Farm and Orchard, black beans from
The Three Sisters, roasted tomatoes from Genesis Growers and
finished with Mexican crema. Invited to participate in a couple of
the pop-up markets around town, they created their own selection
of spice blends to sell as holiday gifts.
The biggest development however, has been their new
restaurant, which they acquired in large part because they
needed a place to prep their products for the market. For a
couple of years, they used the kitchen at LM Brasserie on S. Michigan
Avenue. Ready to have their own kitchen, in July of 2012 they found
the old, rundown pizzeria, Barry’s Spot at 5757-5759 N. Broadway,
which they decided to rent. The landlord of the building sold the
restaurant equipment and other assets to Newman and Taormina.
To make the best use of the building’s awkward footprint,
they divided the space into a 1,400-square-foot restaurant and
a 700-square-foot corner café. Newman says the coffee shop is
the first café to sell Sparrow Coffee, which is roasted in the West
Loop and is available at some local upscale restaurants. House-made
scones, muffins, biscotti and pies also are on the menu, along
with oversize cookies in half-a-dozen flavors: chocolate chip, triple
chocolate, peanut butter, cowboy (oatmeal, salted nuts, chocolate
pieces), Taylor’s (toffee and pecan) and the original (oatmeal-sour

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