11. Figure 77–3 Be careful to observe the direction in which replacement linings are facing. Some vehicle manufacturers offset the friction material on the steel backing to help prevent or minimize tapered pad wear. Continued
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16. Figure 77–7 Most manufacturers recommend that the bleeder valve be opened and the brake fluid forced into a container rather than back into the master cylinder reservoir. This helps prevent contaminated brake fluid from being forced into the master cylinder where the dirt and contamination could cause problems. Continued
17. Figure 77–8 Many calipers use a hollow “banjo bolt” to retain the flexible brake line to the caliper housing. The fitting is usually round like a banjo. The copper washers should always be replaced and not reused. Continued
18. Figure 77–9 Caliper retaining bolts are often called guide pins. These guide pins are used to retain the caliper to the steering knuckle. These pins also slide through metal bushings and rubber O-rings. (Courtesy of EIS Brake Parts) Continued
19. Figure 77–10 If the caliper is not being removed, it must be supported properly so that the weight of the caliper is not pulling on the flexible rubber brake line. A suitable piece of wire, such as a coat hanger, may be used. Continued
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21. Figure 77–12 After the piston is removed from the caliper housing, the dust boot can often be removed using a straight-blade screwdriver. Continued
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30. Figure 77–18 Installing a new piston seal. Never reuse old rubber parts. Step #1 Carefully clean the caliper bore with clean brake fluid from a sealed container. Coat a new piston seal with clean brake fluid and install it in the groove inside the caliper bore To assemble the disc brake caliper, perform the following: Continued
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36. Figure 77–24 (b) Use two hammers to bend the tab where it extends through the hole in the caliper body. Continued
37. Figure 77–25 Often, a hammer is necessary to bend the retainer flange to make certain that the pads fit tightly to the caliper. If the pads are loose, a “click” may be heard every time the brakes are depressed. This click occurs when the pad(s) move and then hit the caliper or caliper mount. If the pads are loose, a clicking noise may be heard while driving over rough road surfaces. Continued
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41. Figure 77–28 (a) Using an air-powered sanding disc to clean the caliper mount pads. (b) Applying silicone brake grease to the slides assures proper caliper operation. Continued (a) (b)
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45. Figure 77–29 Determine which face of the special tool best fits the holes or slots in the piston. Sometimes needle-nose pliers can be used to rotate the piston back into the caliper bore. Continued
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52. Continued NOTE: Many aftermarket disc brake pads do not include replacement hardware that usually includes noise-reducing shims and clips. One of the advantages of purchasing original equipment (OE) disc brake pads is that they usually come equipped with all necessary shims and often with special grease that is recommended to be used on metal shims.
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54. NOTE: All metal-to-metal contacts must be lubricated to help prevent brake noise. CAUTION: Grease should only be applied to the nonfriction (steel) side of the disc brake pads. Continued
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57. Figure 77–32 Notice the beveled pads. The shape of the pad helps determine the frequency of any vibration in the brakes. Continued
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