different types of ophthalmic frames and design

1. Types of frames and their
selection
Presented by
Pabita Dhungel
B.Optometry
01/03/15 1

2. Presentation layout
• Introduction
• History of frame
• Parts of frames
• Materials of frame
• Frame selection
-pediatrics
- High error
summary
01/03/15 2

3. Introduction
• A portion of the spectacles that holds the lens
in their proper position before the eyes
• Rests on the nose, balance on the ears and
anchor around the ears
01/03/15 3

4. Purpose
• Value for expertly prescribed ophthalmic
lenses
• Vision, comfort and convenience
• Cosmetic pleasing
• Adjustment of Frame on face & proper
support to lenses
• Professional accord
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5. History of frame
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6. Type of frame Fitting
According to Purpose
• Prescription lens wear
• Protective eye wear
• Sports eye wear
• Cosmetic eye wear
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7. Types of frame fitting
• According to Demand
• Age group: Small children, young adult, old adult
• Profession: House wife to executive, shopkeeper to
medical practitioner, drivers to social workers
• Refractive error: minus vs plus, low vs high.
• Special purpose frame: ptosis, folding frames,
reversible spectacle, sport spectacles, entropion
spectacle, hemianopic spectacle,
01/03/15 7

8. Spectacle frame
• Parts of a Spectacle frame
• Each frame has two main parts - Front & Side.
• Front consist of rims, bridge, joints and lugs
• Rim
• May be complete or incomplete or full rim,
rimless(3ps) and half rim(supra)
• Lenses are supported by nylon or steel wires.
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9. 01/03/15 9

10. Frame front
• Area between the
lenses that rests
on the nose
• Rim going around
the lens
• Extreme edge
where temple
attaches
• Rivet attachment
point in front of
end piece to hold
the hinge in place
Hinge: temple holders to the front and consists of an odd no of inter-fitting barrels01/03/15 10

11. Temples
Attach to the front and hook over the ears to
help hold the spectacles in place.
Q & A01/03/15 11

12. End-piece
• Plastic: Three types
• Butt type
• Most common type
• front is straight and temple butt is flat, both meet
at 90 degree angle
• Mitre type
• Face front and temple butt meets at 45 degrees
• Turn Back type
• Frame front bends around and meets the temple
end to end
01/03/15 12

13. Parts of frame
Bridge
•Is that part of front which forms the connection
between two rims Bridges may be of three
basic types
1. Regular:-it rest on the nose with full surface in
contact.
2. Insets bridge/Keyhole:-Projects behind the
frame plane so that area of contacts has behind
the lenses plane.
01/03/15 13

14. Contd…
3. Saddle Bridge:-Combination of regular and
insets bridges.
• It mainly distributes the weight of spectacles
on top as well as side of nose.
4. Modified saddle bridge
5. Adjustable nose pads:-Allow for good fit.
01/03/15 14

15. Different types of bridge
01/03/15 15

16. Frame material
• From the beginning, many different types of
materials were used to make eyeglass frames.
• Buffalo horn caps, tortoise shell, and gold were
all used.
• Most of these materials proved to be lacking in
durability, difficult to work with, or just too
expensive to be practical.
• In the mid 1800s, advancing technology
presented us with a commercial plastic known as
cellulose nitrate.
01/03/15 16

17. 01/03/15 17

18. Properties of frame materials
 Dimensional stability
 Dermal compatibility
 Mechanical durability
 Low specific gravity
 Good strength to wt. Ratio
 Good thermal electric insulation
 High resistance to chemical
 Ease of production
 Resistance to corrosion
 Low cost01/03/15 18

19. Metal frames
• Metal frames usually consist of a number of different
materials: base metals (i.e. the structural metal of the
frame), plating (often several different layers),
frequently an organic lacquer or coating, and the
plastic side tips and nose-pads.
• These are usually cellulose acetate or a closely related
plastic or silicone rubber.
• Before coating (except for rolled gold), the wire is
“drawn” through rollers to reduce it to the required
section.
• This “work hardens” most alloys.
01/03/15 19

20. Contd…
• Joints between the components of most metal
frames can either be made by soldering (using a
“hard” solder – e.g. silver solder) or by welding.
• Many metals are toxic and great care should be
taken not to inhale any dust from these alloys if
grinding/polishing them.
• Even “safe” metals such as titanium and aluminium
can be dangerous if the particle size is such as to
cause lung damage (COSHH, 1997).
01/03/15 20

21. Metal frame Materials
1. Gold–
Gold having all these property except low cost
Types
 Fine gold: 100% pure gold
 Solid gold: gold + base metal evenly mixed
 Gold filled: base metal inside solid gold coating
 Plated gold: A base metal thinly plated with gold
French Design House Boucheron / optyl
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22. • Fine gold
 24 karat gold
use
 chemically
pure,
unalloyed
metal
 Too soft
 Other metal
added to
improve gold
hardness &
durability
Solid gold
10 karat
gold use
Fine gold or
gold alloyed
use
Gold + base
metals evenly
mix
Frame is
solid rather
than hallow
Gold filled
Base metal
inside around
that solid gold
coating by the
use of heat &
pressure
Wt. Of gold
must be at least
120 of the total
wt.
Fineness must
be 10 karat
Gold plated
This frame
made by gold
filled process
But the gold
is less than
120 to the
total volume of
the weight
Gold may
also applied to
base metals by
an
electroplating
process
01/03/15 22

23. 2) Aluminium
•Aluminium is light and soft.
•It is usually “anodised” (an electrolytic colouring
process), plated or coated.
•Joints are usually rivetted to the front and sides,
although occasionally they may be welded on or even
cast as a part of the side.
•Aluminium parts are always quite thick for a metal
frame, due to the softness of the material.
• In common with titanium, pure aluminium is
hypoallergenic.
01/03/15 23

24. Contd…
Advantage –
 Stain & tarnish resistance
 Strong & light wt.
 Resistance to corrosion
 Can painted many attractive color
Disadvantage –
Doesn’t solder or weld well
Screw or rivets
 It conduct heat readily & become cold in winter
01/03/15 24

25. 3) Nickel silver
• This is 12-25% nickel, but mostly copper.
• It is mechanically quite a good material for
spectacle frames, although it goes dull very
quickly if not plated/coated, and rapidly turns
green in contact with body fluids.
• It is easily worked and soldered and used to
be the most common material for spectacle
frames, and probably it (or a very similar alloy)
still is.
01/03/15 25

26. Contd…
• Advantages
• Its rigidity makes it good for hinge, bridge, and
end piece applications.
• Disadvantages
• Tends to dull and tarnish
• Its hardness may create some brittleness so it is
best to avoid this material in thin applications.
01/03/15 26

27. 4) Beryllium
• Beryllium by itself is a hard, light and flexible
element.
• It is generally mixed with other metals to create
better endurance to fatigue.
• Most often in the manufacturing of eyewear, it is
mixed with copper to create a lightweight and
flexible alloy (copper beryllium).
01/03/15 27

28. Contd…
• Advantages
• Beryllium is hard and strong by itself, so in
certain applications it will make a stable but
flexible bridge.
• When mixed with copper the result is a strong
but springy material that lends itself well to the
creation of thinner temples with good holding
power.
• In general its inclusion into the frame will make
for greater strength in a thinner profile
01/03/15 28

29. Contd…
• Disadvantages
• Since the cost of beryllium is high it is usually
mixed in with other materials.
• Corrosion resistance could be classified as
only medium.
• Its springy nature could make some subtle
frame adjustments difficult and prone not to
stay.
01/03/15 29

30. 5) Cobalt
• Cobalt is a strong, non-corrosive metal, with
good adjustability.
• Advantages
• Due to its strength it is often used as a stabilizing
interior metal on good-quality frames. Will
contribute to good strength in a thinner profile.
• Very good resistance to corrosion.
• Disadvantages
• Usually not used alone due to higher cost
01/03/15 30

31. 6) Monel
Whitish in color, pliable for good adjustment
68 % - Nickel, 30 % - Copper, 2 % - Iron
Traces of silicon, carbon & sulfur
• Advantages
• Its common use points to the fact that it is an
efficient material that is cost-effective to use.
• Good resistance to stress stabilizes endpieces
and bridges. Once set, the adjustment will
hold.
01/03/15 31

32. Contd…
• Accommodates well to eyewires as it adapts
to lens curves.
• Disadvantages
• While its rigidity is a stabilizing plus, it is also a
bit of a problem because it may be difficult to
shape or re-shape at the dispensing table.
• It has only medium corrosion resistance
01/03/15 32

33. 7) Nickel
• Nickel is often used in combination with other metals
to create a completed frame.
• Advantages
• Nickel is very malleable so it works well in nose pad
arms.
• It maintains a good portion of its strength even
through constant bending.
• From a manufacturing standpoint it is readily shaped.
• Resists corrosion and tarnish.
• Disadvantages
• Higher cost keeps its usage at a low level
01/03/15 33

34. 8) Bronze
• Bronze is alloy used in the manufacture of frames and
parts.
• It is a mixture containing a substantial amount of copper.
• Advantages
• Its flexibility makes it very good for thin temple
applications.
• It will hold a very high luster.
• Disadvantages
• While its flexibility is a plus it may also be viewed as a
problem, because adjustments are difficult and may not
hold.
• Has a tendency to tarnish and corrode
01/03/15 34

35. 9) Stainless steel
 Stainless steel is an alloy of 74% - iron, 18% -
chromium 8% - nickel
• Advantages
• Generally it will not react with your skin like other
metals and platings.
• Has a lot of flexibility and strength to allow stable,
thinner construction.
• Excellent corrosion resistance.
• Disadvantages
• Like all springy materials, adjustments are difficult and
often do not hold.
01/03/15 35

36. 10) Titanium
• Titanium is a newer, high-tech metal that has become
synonymous as a high-quality, value-added, frame product.
• Advantages
• As much as 40% lighter than traditional metals.
• Titanium is noted for great strength and durability.
• This material is impervious to corrosion and has excellent
surface hardness.
• Disadvantages
• The biggest disadvantage of this rare earth metal is its high
cost due to the special handling in frame fabrication.
(Special welding equipment is required.)
01/03/15 36

37. 11) Trilliam
• Trilliam is an alloy of nickel, copper, and tin.
• Advantages
• Flexibility and strength allows for thin, light,
and yet stable construction.
• Disadvantages
• As with other flexible materials, sometimes
adjusting is difficult and prone to not hold.
01/03/15 37

38. Plastic frame materials
Thermosetting
 Material begins as liquid & becomes solid during
manufacturing process
 Once product has been manufactured, it never again soften to
any significant extent
Thermoplastic –
 has property of softening when heated & hardening when
cooled
 basic structure of material remain same
 eg. polymethyl nitrate
cellulose nitrate
cellulose acetate ? Thermoelastic01/03/15 38

39. 1) Acetate
• Cellulose Acetate (also referred to as Zylonite or Zyl)
is the most common material used in the fabrication
of plastic eyeglass frames.
• This material is made by mixing cotton seed fibers
with plasticizers and stabilizers.
• The resulting material provides a semi-synthetic
plastic with an excellent range of internal and
external colors and textures
01/03/15 39

40. Two forms of acetate
• 1.) Black Acetate – is a sheet of extruded material
from which the frame fronts and temples are milled
or cut.
• This process, also known as pantographing, results
in a great deal of material waste, but the remaining
stock exhibits good strength and stability.
• 2.) Acetate Granules – are small pellets of materials
which are liquefied and injection molded.
01/03/15 40

41. Contd…
• This method is more cost effective for large
quantities of frames, since relatively little material is
wasted, Injection-molded acetate may be somewhat
les stable than milled acetate although both
materials tend to shift and deform with daily use and
warm temperatures.
• Metal cores are usually added to acetate material in
order to restrict the tendency of the frame to shift or
deform.
01/03/15 41

42. Advantages
1. Available in a wide variety of colors and textures.
Virtually all color combinations are possible, from
crystalline and dark solid to multi-colored verigated,
mottled or laminated combinations.
2. Temple adjustments in new material may be done
with little or no heat.
3. The material may be worked easily with warm air or
with the salt pan.
01/03/15 42

43. Contd…
5) Properly handled, the material allows some
margin for sizing errors.
6) The material will stretch to accommodate a
slightly larger lens or it will shrink to
accommodate a slightly larger lens or it will
shrink to accommodate a lens which is slightly
smaller.
01/03/15 43

44. Disadvantages
1. As the frame ages the plasticizers, which were
originally added to impart flexibility, begin to exude
from the surface. When this happens the material
grows increasingly brittle and the surface luster is
lost due to a build-up of dull, whitish film.
2. Certain colors, some more than others, will lose
their original depth as they fade from exposure to
UV light and body oils.
3. Overheating will almost always loosen hinges and
other metal hardware
01/03/15 44

45. Contd…
5. The material’s slight tendency to shift makes it
unsuitable for some of today’s ultra-thin designs.
6. Overheating acetate will result in surface
pitting or burning.
7. Once marred, the surface is difficult to repair and is
sensitive to solvents.
8. Compared to other frame materials such as nylon,
polyamide, or Opyl, acetate is somewhat heaver.
01/03/15 45

46. Tips for handling
• 1.) Whether using an air heater or a salt pan, do not
overheat. The temperature of your warmer should
not exceed +70⁰C or +160⁰F.
• 2.) Due to a diminished flexibility, older frames
should be heated thoroughly, but carefully.
• 3.) Dark-colored frames absorb heat more readily, so
less time in the heating element is needed.
• 4.) Heat only the part of the frame requiring
adjustment.
01/03/15 46

47. Contd…
• 5. Submerging the entire frame in the heat will undo
other adjusted areas and possibly do permanent
damage by loosening hinges and other secured
hardware.
• 6. If dullness of the finish appears a light buffing
with a polishing compound and soft wheel can return
a surface luster. (Wiping dulled areas with acetone
will not create a satisfactory result because this
procedure will only produce an unnatural and very
temporary glaze.)
01/03/15 47

48. 2) Propionate
• Material with properties of strength and shape
retention which lends itself to injection mold
fabrication.
• Due to its excellent flexibility, strength and light
weight, propionate has led the way for
manufacturers to consider and create frames of
greater size and stability while maintaining and ultra-
thin appearance.
• While this new material offers the dispenser some
different design capabilities it maintains many of the
friendly characteristics of acetate01/03/15 48

49. Advantages
1. Greater stability affords better shape retention in
warm weather.
2. Relatively lighter in weight than traditional acetate.
3. Colors are applied in a series of overcoatings as
opposed to being mixed in with the material itself.
This offers a good range of colors and the color
coating tends to seal in the plasticizers, thereby
inhabiting surface dulling common in acetate.
4. Overcoat tends to add a measure of surface
hardness creating better scratch resistance.
5. Stability of material makes a sturdy, ultra-thin
design possible.01/03/15 49

50. Disadvantages
1. Propionate is difficult to dye and, therefore, colors
may fade a bit more readily and they may exhibit
some inconsistencies in places.
2. Requires more plasticizers than block acetate and,
therefore, can grow bitter and dull with age
3. Sensitive to solvents. In addition to acetone, alcohol
will attack the surface finish.
4. Definite low tolerance to excess heat.
5. Excessive heat will easily cause the material to
bubble or to otherwise abberate. Repair of these
problems is virtually impossible.
01/03/15 50

51. Tips for handling
1. Due to its heat sensitivity it might be preferable to
use an air heater as opposed to a salt pan on
propionate, allowing for a more controlled
application of heat. The maximum working
temperature for this material should not exceed
+40⁰C, or +105⁰F.
2. Lenses should be edged to very close tolerance
since this material is not well-suited to stretching or
shrinking.
01/03/15 51

52. Contd…
• 3 Attempts to widen or narrow bridges should be
done with caution since the heat normally used to
effect these changes will put the frame finish at risk.
• 4 Like acetate, dark colors absorb more heat
readily and demand extra care.
• 5 Control the location of heat application so as not
to overheat parts which are outside the adjustment
area.
01/03/15 52

53. 3) Nylon
• Thermoplastic which has been used in the
manufacture of eyeglass frames for many years.
• Exhibits excellent resistance to breakage, is
lightweight, and has enough stability to allow for
frames of thinner construction.
• The material is a thermoplastic which lends itself to
the production process of injection molding.
• When selecting a nylon frame it is important to be
exacting with features such as bridge fit, since the
relatively rigid nature of the material makes
alterations almost impossible01/03/15 53

54. Advantages
1. The material exhibits good hypo-allergenic qualities;
people with skin sensitivities are rarely bothered by
this type of plastic.
2. Unlike acetate and propionate, has a lesser
tendency to bleed its plasticizers to the surface of
the frame as most often adverse skin reactions are
not the result of the materials itself, but rather due
to the plasticizers and stabilizers which eventually
come to the frame surface.
3. Exhibits good comfort due to its light weight.
01/03/15 54

55. Contd…
• 4) Nylon exhibits good resistance to many
traditional solvents, such as acetone and alcohol.
• 5) This material is difficult to damage in the salt pan
because it is relatively impervious to heat. It does not
pit, bubble, or burn very easily.
• 6) Since the material is very strong with good
flexibility, it is known to be relatively unbreakable
with good application in the area of children’s and
sports frames.
01/03/15 55

56. Disadvantages
• While flexibility is an advantage against breakage, it
is a disadvantage in the area of adjustment.
• Colour selection is usually limited to dark, solid
colours. Crystalline colours are not possible.
• The material tends to dry out and become brittle
over time.
• Nylon is very unforgiving to lenses which are not
sized exactly. Since the material will not shrink,
lenses which are too small cannot be made to work.
• Lenses which are too large take extreme frame
heating and a great deal of strong inserting skill to
mount01/03/15 56

57. Tips for handling
• 1.) Material will dry out due to low humidity, it is
recommended that the wearer soak the glasses in
water overnight on a periodic basis (weekly or
monthly),this will prolong frame life and deter
breakage.
• 2.) In order to fix the setting of your adjustment into
this soft and flexible material it is helpful to make the
adjustment with high heat and while still hot,
submerge the newly adjusted part into very cold
water.
• This procedure will add some additional stability to
your adjustments.01/03/15 57

58. 4) Carbon fiber
• Carbon fiber frames are another breed of injection-
molded types.
• Early versions in this type of frame were very light in
weight and rigid, but also very brittle. The current
carbon frames have a better balance between light
weight, strength and durability.
• Manifests itself as a combination frame with a
carbon front and a metal temple/endpieces.
01/03/15 58

59. Advantages
1. Good wearing comfort due to the light weight of the
material.
2. The opaque, baked-on enamel finish maintains its luster as it
protects and adds scratch resistance to the frame.
3. Makes the strength and durability of metal available in the
ultra-thin look of plastic.
4. Carbon is relatively impervious to heat. Heating will add
some pliability, but the frame will not bubble or burn in the
sale pan.
5. One-piece designs (eyewires without screws) deliver a metal
look without the nuisance of loosening screws.
01/03/15 59

60. Disadvantages
1. With the exception of the metal temple and
endpiece, carbon fronts do not lend themselves to
adjustments. Like nylon, the bridge either fits or it
doesn’t. Alterations such as stretching, shrinking or
flairing, are virtually impossible.
2. The sizing is critical. The material will not shrink or
stretch.
3. Exhibits sensitivities to a variety of solvents which
may ruin the finish and abberate the material.
4. Due to the translucent nature of the material,
colour selections are limited to the darker ranges.
01/03/15 60

61. Tips for Handling
1. Direct pantoscopic and retroscopic adjustments to the metal
of the endpiece rather than to the carbon itself. Changes in
the carbon configuration are not readily achieved, and if
done do not tend to stay.
2. Frames with eyewire screws should be worked cold like a
metal frame.
3. Frames without eyewire screws should be sized exactly and
“cold snap” inserted. If that is impossible, warm the frame to
add a bit of pliability, then insert.
4. Like nylon, all lens-only orders should be accompanied with a
C-size measurement. This will save many delays and missed
fits.
01/03/15 61

62. Other types of frame material
1) Polyamide
•Polyamide is a blend of different nylon materials.
•Polyamide frames are fabricated through the
technique of injection casting.
•This allows for an economical use of the material by
eliminating waste during the milling process.
01/03/15 62

63. Advantages
• Hypo-allergenic. (No plasticizers used to dull the
finish and create skin reactions.)
• Excellent wearing comfort due to light weight.
Lighter than acetate.
• Polyamide offers resistance to solvents, oils,
cosmetics and chemicals.
• The material holds its shape in all weather
conditions, from cold, to warm and humid.
01/03/15 63

64. Contd…
• Its stability and strength allows for the
creation of ultra-thin designs. Overall strength
superior to acetate and propionate.
• Available in a full range of solid and crystalline
colors.
01/03/15 64

65. Disadvantages
• Limited ability to stretch. Oversized lenses
cannot be inserted. They will not go in cold
and heating the frame shrinks it, making the
large lens problem worse.
• The materials is very sensitive to overheating.
In addition to shrinking, aberrations develop
in the material when too much heat is applies
01/03/15 65

66. 2)Optyl
• Optyl is an epoxy resin which, like most other lens
materials, is manufactured through the method of
vacuum casting.
• The material is approximately 30% lighter than the
traditional acetate materials and therefore, provides
as one of its major benefits – wearing comfort.
• The color dyes may be mixed throughout the resin or
the may be applied after the casting has taken place
01/03/15 66

67. Advantages
• Hypo-allergenic
• Its extreme light weight delivers good wearing
comfort.
• Excellent shape and adjustment retention. Not
affected by normal swings of weather temperature.
• Optyl is extremely heat resistant – it will withstand
temperatures up to +350⁰C. The material is virtually
impervious to damage in the salt pan or air heater.
01/03/15 67

68. Contd..
• A final protective coating delivers good
resistance to surface scratching.
• Allows for a wide variety of fashion shapes
and colors.
• Good resistance to most chemicals and
solvents, particularly acetone.
01/03/15 68

69. Disadvantages
• Adjustments are a bit more difficult since reheating
areas which have already been adjusted will cause
the adjustment to relax and return to its original
state.
• Generally more heat is required to work with Optyl.
Underheating may result in frame breakage.
01/03/15 69

70. Tips for Handling
• 1.) Always heat the material slightly above its
working temperature of +80⁰C, or +176⁰F
• 2.) Never submerge a recently inserted Optyl frame
into cold water. This will prevent the material from
returning to its properly sized dimension and will
most always result in a loose lens fit.
• 3.) Bridge fits may be altered by warming and
stretching or compressing the material. It is
necessary to hold the desired configuration until it
air cools. This will preserve the adjustment.
01/03/15 70

71. Contd…
• Lenses should never be edged small because this will
always result in a loose fit. Lenses should always be
edged approximately ½ mm over the eyesize
designation. Since eyesize is consistent with box
measurements this will result in a snug fit.
• 5.) If old lenses appear to be loose or if new lenses
appear to be too small, the frame may be
overstretched. Heat the frame beyond its working
temperature, let it air cool to return to its original
shape and size – then attempt to re-insert. This will
correct the problem of a loose fit in many cases.
01/03/15 71

72. 4) Kevlar
• Kevlar is another material in the same vein as
polycarbonate
• Its primary application until now has been in the area
of protective type products, such as crash helmets,
bulletproof vests, and sports equipment.
• Like nylon, the color range of this material is limited
to the darker shades, and the most common shade
of Kevlar is an amber tone.
• As with polycarbonate and nylon, its strength is also
one of its weaknesses.
01/03/15 72

73. Advantages
• A great safety product – affords impact
protection and resist breakage.
• Remains unaffected by temperature swings
from -30 to +180⁰F.
01/03/15 73

74. Disadvantages
• Adjustments are difficult to achieve and are
prone to relaxing.
• Limited color and style range.
• Alterations to bridge and shape configuration
are extremely difficult
01/03/15 74

75. Tips for Handling
• 1.) Verify that the bridge will fit upon selection, since
reworking the material is not possible, otherwise
discomfort may not result. Either it fits to begin with
or avoid it.
• 2.) Since Kevlar resists stretching and shrinking, sizing
should be exact.
• 3.) Heating will improve pliability somewhat for
insertion.
01/03/15 75

76. Plating of frames
• Metal frames are often plated with another metal
both to improve their cosmetic appearance and to
reduce corrosion.
• Mechanically, plating is problematic as the rates of
thermal expansion and elasticities of the metals used
can make the plating liable to crack in something as
flexible as a spectacle frame.
01/03/15 76

77. 1)Electrolytic plating
• This is the method by which the majority of metal
frames are plated with gold and other
• metals.
• The pure metal or alloy is deposited onto the surface
from solution.
• Both the thickness and porosity are dramatically
affected by the exact manufacturing details – varying
from comparable with mechanical plating to
downright awful.
01/03/15 77

78. 2)Mechanical plating
• This is best known for the production of “rolled gold”
frames.
• A relatively hard, impermeable “work-hardened”
gold layer is produced by the process, as the gold is
applied to the wire used before it is drawn.
• Cutting obviously penetrates the wire and soldering
can locally disrupt the work hardening (although
such frames often are able to tolerate solder repairs
with no cosmetic changes in appearance).
01/03/15 78

79. 3)Chemical plating
• Historically, this was derogatorily called “gold
washing”.
• The process can, in principle, be as good as
electroplating.
• If it is used on spectacle frames,
manufacturers do not publicise it.
01/03/15 79

80. METALS FOR PLATING
METAL FRAMES
• Gold is usually used as an alloy, frequently with silver
and copper, but occasionally with zinc or nickel.
• Frames have been marketed in the past – and
undoubtedly will again – which are gold coloured,
but contain no gold whatsoever.
• Sometimes these have an opaque gold lacquer on
the surface, sometimes a clear lacquer over a yellow
metal, sometimes a transparent yellow lacquer over
a silver metal or sometimes are plated with a less
expensive yellow alloy. (Hallmarking Act, 1973; Obstfeld, 1997)
01/03/15 80

81. Palladium, Rhodium, Ruthenium
• These “platinum group” metals are very expensive,
hard, silvery metals.
• Palladium allergy is on the increase, and may be
approaching problems numbers in some parts of the
world (Aberer et al, 1993; Kanerva et al, 1996).
• Chromium
• This is hard silvery metal. It is quite reactive, but
quickly forms a thin, hard, transparent, protective
oxide layer.
01/03/15 81

82. Nickel, silver, copper
• These are very rarely used as a surface plating, but
are quite often used as an intermediate layer to
improve adherence and elasticity and because they
have a different crystal structure to the top plating
layer – hence imperfections in the layers are not
aligned – reducing corrosion.
• Nickel plated steel was common in frames circa
1900 (Taylor, 1907) and may therefore occasionally
be seen when antique frames are presented for
glazing.
01/03/15 82

84. A Basic Guide to Face Shapes
 Frame shape should
contrast with face
shape
 Frame size should be
in scale with face size
 Eyewear should
balance personal
proportion
Three Keys: Essential Elements:
 The seven basic face
shapes
 Identifying shape,
analyzing proportions
 Selecting frames that
enhance features

85. • The oval face is considered the
ideal face shape in the western
world
• The oval face is epitomized by
Leonardo DaVinci’s Mona Lisa
The Ideal Face Shape
A Basic Guide to Face Shapes

86. 1. Angular (square/rectangular)
2. Curvilinear (round/oval)
Two General Categories of Faces
A Basic Guide to Face Shapes
Although faces may be classified as
predominately composed of angular
features or curvilinear features, it
should be noted that all faces are a
combination of angular and
curvilinear lines.

87. Balance and Harmony:
How to Analyze Face Shapes
• Well-chosen eyewear can restore
balance to the face
• The optician must identify
misproportions and determine how
faces deviate from the oval ideal
• The goal of frame selection is to find a
frame that contrasts with the shape of
the face and emphasizes the
complimentary lines of the face

88. 1. The width of the face is
divided into five sections
about the width of an eye
2. Identify unequal sections
such as narrow set eyes or
wide cheeks
3. The face may be either too
wide or too narrow when
compared to the oval ideal
Measuring the Width of the Face
How to Analyze Face Shapes

89. 4. A narrow fifth between the
eyes indicates that the eyes are
close together
5. A wide fifth between the eyes
indicates wide-set eyes that are
farther apart
6. Frames are chosen to make the
eyes appear further apart or
closer together to restore facial
balance
Measuring the Width of the Face
How to Analyze Face Shapes

90. 1. The face is divided into three
horizontal sections:
a. Hairline to browline
b. Browline to tip of nose
c. Tip of nose to chin
2. Identify unequal sections
3. The face may be either too
long or too short when
compared to the oval ideal
Measuring the Length of the Face
How to Analyze Face Shapes

91. 1. Perfectly balanced faces are
rare
2. Frames are used to balance
facial inequities
3. If the middle third of the face
is too long, a deeper frame
will minimize the imbalance
Facial Proportion and Balance
Frames and Facial Balance

92. 4. If the top third of the
face is too long with a
high forehead, low
temples will help restore
balance to the face
Facial Proportion and Balance
Frames and Facial Balance

93. 1. Visualize dots placed on
each side of a patient’s
brow, cheek, and jaw
2. The dot method will help
to identify the shape and
size of the face
3. The dots can also help
identify strong and weak
points
Dot and Define:
Dots to Determine Face Shape

94. 4. Photographs of faces can
be used to practice
placing dots and
identifying face shapes
5. Use polaroid snapshots of
patients to demonstrate
the system of analyzing
face shapes and balance
Dot and Define:
Dots to Determine Face Shape

95. 1. The oval face is
considered the ideal
shape because of its
mostly balanced
proportions
2. Frames should maintain
the natural balance of the
oval face
Oval Face: Description
Faces, Frames, and Guidelines

96. Oval Face: Tips
Faces, Frames, and Guidelines
 Select frames that as wide or
wider than than the broadest part
of the face
 Avoid low, swooping temples,
which will unbalance the face
 Keep frames in proportion to the
face

97. 1. Diamond-shaped faces
are narrow at the eyeline
and the jawline with a
small forehead and chin
2. Cheekbones are
frequently high and
dramatic.
Diamond Face: Description
Faces, Frames, and Guidelines

98. 3. The diamond is the rarest
face shape
4. Frames should widen the
forehead and jaw and
minimize the temples and
cheekbones
Diamond Face: Description
Faces, Frames, and Guidelines

99. Diamond Face: Tips
Faces, Frames, and Guidelines
 Choose frames that are heavy on
top but avoid low temples
 Frame sides can be straight or
rounded.
 Rimless frames
 Square frames or frames with a
straight top and curved bottom

100. 1. The round face is full
with few angles
2. The width and length are
in roughly equal
proportions
3. Frames should make the
face appear longer and
thinner
Round Face: Description
Faces, Frames, and Guidelines

101. Round Face: Tips
Faces, Frames, and Guidelines
 Eyewear that creates angles or
horizontal lines will make the
face appear more angular
 Slightly angular frames will
narrow the round face
 Avoid excessively rounded or
square styles which will
exaggerate facial roundness

102. Round Face: Tips
Faces, Frames, and Guidelines
 High or mid-height temples help
create a longer profile
 A clear bridge widens the eyes
 Colored temples add width
 Frames should be wider than
they are deep

103. 1. The square face is
characterized by a strong
jaw line, a broad forehead,
and a wide chin and
cheekbones
2. Frames should make the
face look longer
Square Face: Description
Faces, Frames, and Guidelines

104. Square Face: Tips
Faces, Frames, and Guidelines
 Gently curved narrow styles will
minimize squareness and
lengthen the face
 The frames should be wider than
the widest part of the face
 Frames should be more
horizontal than vertical

105. Square Face: Tips
Faces, Frames, and Guidelines
 Select frames with weight on top
 Oval shapes with mid-level to
high temples
 Color or skiving (ornamental
engraving) on the frames’ upper
temporal corners will lengthen
the face

106. 1. The base-down triangular face
has a narrow forehead that
widens at the cheek and chin
areas
2. Frames should add width to
the forehead while softening
and narrowing the appearance
of the jaw, chin, and cheeks
3. The ideal face for glasses
Base-down Triangle Face: Description
Faces, Frames, and Guidelines

107. Base-down Triangle Face: Tips
Faces, Frames, and Guidelines
 Frames should accent the eye
area and be wide enough to
balance the jaw line
 Frame tops should be slightly
heavy and contain skiving
 Frame bottoms should angle
inward

108. Base-down Triangle Face: Tips
Faces, Frames, and Guidelines
 Avoid low temple styles and use
mid-level to high temple styles
—depending on the length of the
face
 Use square, straight-top aviators
or metal frames with rimless
bottoms

109. 1. The base-up triangular face is
characterized by a very wide
forehead and high cheekbones
which narrows gradually to
the chin
2. Frame should add width below
the eyeline to offset the
narrow chin
3. The worst face for glasses
Base-up Triangle Face: Description
Faces, Frames, and Guidelines

110. Base-up Triangle Face: Tips
Faces, Frames, and Guidelines
 Try frames that are wider at
the bottom
 Other choices include
aviator, butterfly, or low-
triangle styles
 Frames with rounded tops
and squared bottoms

111. Base-up Triangle Face: Tips
Faces, Frames, and Guidelines
 Mid-level to low temple
placement will add balance
 Very light colors, delicate
metal, and rimless styles are
effective

112. 1. The oblong face is one that is
longer than it is wide
2. Select a frame that is deeper
than it is wide to create the
illusion that the face is shorter
3. Frames should “break up” the
length of the face to make the
face appear shorter and wider
Oblong Face: Description
Faces, Frames, and Guidelines

113. Oblong Face: Tips
Faces, Frames, and Guidelines
 Frames should have top to
bottom depth
 Shorten the face by using round,
deep, or low-triangle shapes
 Use frames with strong
horizontal lines emphasized by
skiving

114. Oblong Face: Tips
Faces, Frames, and Guidelines
 Decorative or contrasting
temples can add width to the
face
 Mid-level to low temple position
can reduce the length of the face

115. To Shorten a Face:
• Use mid- or low-temples;
deeper, narrower frames; or a
low bridge
To Lengthen a Face:
• Use mid- or high-temples; a
high bridge; shallow, wide
frames; or frames with little or
no color on the lower rim
Face
Guidelines

116. Guidelines
To Shorten the Nose:
• Choose a frame with
a low or solid,
colored bridge
• Avoid a keyhole
bridge, a high bridge,
or a clear bridge
Nose

117. Guidelines
To Lengthen the Nose:
• Choose a keyhole
bridge, a high bridge,
or a clear bridge
• Avoid a frame with a
low or solid, colored
bridge
Nose

118. To Narrow and Lengthen a
Wide Nose:
• Use a clear or metal bridge
that sits close to the nose
• Use nosepads
Nose
Guidelines

119. To Widen Close-set Eyes:
• Select frames with an
unobtrusive bridge
• Use a clear bridge with darker
colors placed at the outer edges
of the frame
• Narrow width frames help to
center the eyes
Eyes
Guidelines

120. To Narrow Wide-set Eyes:
• Use a dark colored bridge
• Use wide frames to center
the eyes in the lenses
Eyes
Guidelines

121. A Small Face:
• Use thin metals and subtle
colors; lightweight frames;
or rimless frames
• Don’t overwhelm delicate
features with heavy or
exaggerated frames
Scale
Guidelines

122. A Large Face:
• A large face can be
balanced by using a
slightly oversized frame
• Heavy features can be
balanced by using heavier
frames
Scale
Guidelines

123. Frames in special cases
• Pediatrics
• High refractive errors
• Geriatrics
01/03/15 123

124. Frames for paediatrics
• Paediatric Frame
– Safety should be
the main concern
– Sturdy
– Plastic/ No Nylon
cord
01/03/15 124

125. Paediatric Frame
Spring templeRiding bow temple

126. Paediatric Frame
Deep grooved frame Comfort cable with rope tied
behind head

127. Frames for geriatrics
• Geriatric Frame
– Light weight
– Adequate size of
bridge
– Relatively larger
frame
– Large and adjustable
nose pads
01/03/15 127

128. Frames for high myopia
• Small, round frame
shapes
• Flat or Rolled bevels
• Plastic frame
• Avoid rimless
• Reduce the vertex
distance
01/03/15 128

129. Aphakia and high hyperopia
• Sturdy, light weight,
easily adjustable frame
• Avoid frames with thick
wires – increase the width
of the ring scotoma
• Adjustable pads, jumbo
pads
• Select frame with
relatively small eye size
with symmetrical lens
shape.01/03/15 129

130. Frame and colouring
• Cool complexions look
good in black, magenta,
pink and some blues
• Warm complexions
look good in camel,
gold, peach and orange .
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131. Frames in different environment
• Field job exposed to lot of heat and dust-
Avoid metal frames.
• Engaged in sport- plastic frames.
• Heavy labor- protective frames .
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132. Common Maladjustment and their
remedies
condition Possible causes Remedy
Pads dig in to nose Pads too tight or small,
small bridge
Widen distance of pads,
large pads
Spectacle slide down on
nose
Pads do not fit flatly
against nose
Correct pads, make temple
shorter
Lashes touches lenses Distance between pads too
great
Temples too short
Bring pads closer/ deeply
curved lenses
Longer temple
Eye wire touch cheeks Too great distance
between pads
Too great pantoscopic tilt
Lenses too large vertically
Brings pad closer
Reduce pantoscopic tilt
Smaller eye size
Temple heart behind Ear Tension too great Loosen temple
tension/Larger temple

133. 01/03/15 133