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Lofty Ambitions: Ann’s Response to Zara’s Fast Fashion Trend 
1 
Reggie Aspelund 
MKTG 350-01 
Prof. Seltzer 
Introduction: 
Ann Taylor (ANN) has been dressing busy, socially upscale, women with its classic black dress styles 
since 1954.1 For over forty years, Ann was a leader in Woman’s specialty clothes because of its total 
wardrobing strategy, personalized service, and strong brand equity. During the 1990s as competition 
increased along with ANN’s inability to predict fashion trends for the workplace, their appeal to its 
longstanding customer base eroded. ANN’s business model depends on her ability to predict demand and 
design “classic” fashion since manufacturing is outsourced with a six month lead time from design to 
product in stores. In contrast, Zara has become one of the largest and successful retailers in the world. Zara 
targets both young men and women who are highly sensitive to the latest fashion trends and have 
revolutionary supply chain and distribution models that dramatically reduced traditional product lead times 
from six months to two weeks. Despite the fact Zara has a different target market and value proposition, 
ANN responded to this radical shift in the competitive environment that caused young consumers an 
insatiable demand for the latest trends. This paper will explore ANN’s business model to Zara and conclude 
that ANN’s response to fast fashion is her ability to maximize brand equity to create brand extensions, i,e,, 
Loft, to meet the demand for more casual and trendy clothes while leveraging ‘scale’ to reduce costs in its 
supply chain and distribution. 
I. Industry Analysis: Overview 
The retail apparel industry is highly competitive with many companies trying to steal market share by 
creating a product that is perceived by consumers as fashionable and trendy. Companies must find other 
ways to differentiate their product(s) from the competition or provide value-added services such as 
exceptional customer service and exceptional in-store and on-line experiences. Marketing strategies are 
1 For the purpose of this paper, Ann Inc., parent company of Ann Taylor a nd LOFT, is referenced as ANN.
focused on the target market’s wants, needs, and perception in this industry because the end consumer has 
the highest bargaining power (see Appendix for industry supply chain and distribution channel strategies). 
2 
1.1 Economic Environment 
The state of the economy has a significant impact on the retail apparel industry. When the economic 
conditions and consumer sentiments are perceived as doing well, consumers are more willing and able to 
purchase new products. According to IBIS World, the economic forecast for industry revenue is expected 
to grow 2.1% to reach $44.1 billion due to rising consumer confidence and increased discretionary spending 
on dresses, accessories and other women's items.2 A positive trend of industry growth of 2.1% is expected 
to continue through 2019 (See Appendix for full report). 
1.2 Regulatory Environment 
There are several trade regulations that are important to consider as part of the regulatory environment. 
The North American Free Trade Agreement (NAFTA) between the United States, Canada, and Mexico, 
removed the majority of trade barriers since 2009.3 In 1995, the World Trade Organization’s “Agreement 
and Textile and Clothing” allowed a reduction in import quotas. In 2005, this Agreement resulted in the 
removal of all restriction on the import of textiles and clothing. On September 30, 2010, the Governor of 
California signed into law the California Transparency in Supply Chains Act that profoundly changed the 
industry sourcing practices.4 In 2009, the federal minimum wage (for nonexempt workers) was increased 
to $7.25 by 10.6%. There is renewed pressure from President Obama for Congress to increase the federal 
minimum wage to somewhere around $10.00 or more an hour sometime before 2015. 5 Labor costs are 
expected to increase in the short term. 
2IBISWorld Industry Report 44812 (2014) Women’s Clothing Stores in the US, pg. 6. 
3 U.S. Department of Agriculture, North American Free Trade Agreement (NAFTA) 
http://www.ers.usda.gov/topics/in ternational-markets-trade/countries-regions/nafta,-canada-mexico.aspx 
4 "Cal ifornia Transparency in Supply Chains Act Takes Effect January 1, 2012." Corporate Law Report. JD Supra, 9 Sept. 2011. 
Web. 1 Sept. 2014. 
http://corporatelaw.jdsupra.com/post/california-transparency-in-supply-chains-takes-effect 
5 Huetteman, Emmarie. "Obama Calls for Minimum Wage Rise and Equa l Pay as Elections Approach." The New York 
Times. The New York Times, 01 Sept. 2014. Web. 1 Sept. 2014. 
http://www.nytimes.com/2014/09/02/us/politics/obama-takes-to-road-to-push-rise-in-minimum-wage.html?_r=0
3 
1.3 Technology Environment 
Technology is a critical infrastructural component of operations in this industry. Point-of-Sale (POS) 
technologies to automate transactions, inventory levels to provide decision making support, are required in 
order to stay competitive and lower costs in the supply chain. Retails are embracing and spending 
significant amounts to create a strategic and logistical advantage or, in other cases, to even the playing field 
with larger competitors and ensure network security. Increased spending is expected in the short term (see 
Appendix for full report). 
1.4 Social-Cultural Environment 
We are in the midst of a radical shift in living patterns. People, particularly young professionals, are 
moving away from the rural areas to major cities to be close to their jobs and enjoy the utility of various 
retail, restaurants, sporting events, and other forms of entertainment offered in the city.6 According to Pew 
Research Center, the population in the United State will rise to 438 million in 2050, and “82% of the 
increase will be to immigrants arriving from 2005 to 2050.”7 As these tetanic shifts in demographics occur 
in the United States and around the globe, understanding the micro market and retail activity is imperative 
for strategic retail locations.8 
6 ENGEN, JOHN. 2014. "HOT IN THE CITY." American Banker Magazine 124, no. 3: 18-25. Business Source Premier, EBSCOhost 
(accessed September 1, 2014). 
http://www.americanbanker.com/magazine/124_03/hot-in-the-city-what-the-urban-revival -means-for-banks- 
1066401-1.html 
7 "U.S. Population Projections: 2005-2050." Pew Research Centers Social Demographic Trends Project RSS. Pew 
Research, 11 Feb. 2008. Web. 1 Sept. 2014. 
http://www.pewsocialtrends.org/2008/02/11/us -population-projections-2005-2050/ 
NOTE: The Hispanic population has leveled off since this report. However the Hispanic population is predicted 
remain the largest group of immigrants. See also: Passel, Jeffrey, D'vera Cohn, Jen Krustad, and Ana Gonzalez- 
Barrera. "As Growth Stalls, Unauthorized Immigrant Population Becomes More Settled." Pew Research Centers 
Hispanic Trends Project RSS. Pew Research Centers, 3 Sept. 2014. Web. 18 Sept. 2014: 
http://www.pewhispanic.org/2014/09/03/as -growth-stalls-unauthorized-immigrant-population-becomes-more-settled/; 
"Reports Consumer." Latina Power Shift. Nielsen, 1 Aug. 2014. Web. 19 Sept. 2014: 
http://www.nielsen.com/us/en/insights/reports/2013/latina -power-shift.html 
8 "Reports Consumer." 2014 State of the Shopping Center. Nielsen, 18 May 2014. Web. 5 Sept. 2014. 
http://www.nielsen.com/us/en/insights/reports/2014/2014-state-of-the-shopping-center.html
4 
II ANN’s Brand Strate gy 
In response to a shift in consumer behavior and increased competition, Ann Taylor Stores Corporation 
changed its name to ANN Inc. The strategy is to position itself as a lifestyle brand that understand women 
and their various roles and life stages with five platforms that appeal to various segments under the strong 
brand name of Ann Taylor. ANN has four platforms for its omni-channel retailing strategy—Ann Taylor, 
LOFT, Ann Taylor Factory9,LOFT Outlet, and Lou & Grey—with 1,025 stores and annual revenues of $2.5 
billion in 2013.10 Ann Taylor targets affluent women and is positioned as their “go-to destination” for 
“wear-to-work wardrobe” and “special occasion needs.”11 While Loft on the other hand targets younger 
women that are more price sensitive (elastic demand) and positioned as “[the] destination for great everyday 
fashion at affordable prices.12 The LOFT brand contributes the most significant part of the company’s sales 
revenue (see Figure 1).13 The latest brand extension is Lou & Grey that launched in the fall of 2014. Lou 
& Gray is being positioned as a lifestyle brand to appeal to young women who are more active but 
fashionable, as their tag line is: “Clothing for a comfortably confident life.”14 Lou & Gray has received 
positive reviews since opening in selected cities and will continue to expand into 2015. 
2.1 ANN’s Bus ine s s Mode l 
ANN is a specialty retailer of woman’s apparel, shoes and accessories. ANN’s mission is “to inspire 
and connect with our clients to put their best selves forward every day.”15 In order to fulfill its mission, 
ANN is a direct merchandiser and is in full control of its all of its marketing channels to ensure its brand 
promise (see Appendix for channel map). 
9 Ann Taylor Factory is an outlet store with a merchandising strategy similar to Ann Taylor but 30% less. 
10 Ann Inc., 2013 Annual Report, pg. 3. 
11 Ibid, pg.3. 
12 Ibid, pg.3. 
13 Ibid, pg. 22. 
14 Raczka, Rachel. "Lou & Grey: Part Startup, Part Established Retail Brand - The Boston Globe." BostonGlobe.com. 
Boston Globe Media Partners, LLC, 17 Sept. 2014. Web. 18 Sept. 2014. 
http://www.bostonglobe.com/lifestyle/style/2014/09/17/lou-grey-part-startup-part-established-retail-brand/ 
tRoUuQA1vLxIIO5tO7sJnI/story.html 
15 Ibid, pg.23.
Originally its outlet channel, Ann Taylor Factory, carried overstocks that were sourced from 
underperforming Ann Taylor and later LOFT stores. But since the company’s business model is to offer 
full priced clothing with higher margins, ANN leveraged ‘scale’ and created separate merchandise for its 
outlet stores. With tighter inventory management controls, ANN is able to produce inventory for its 
channels that is meant to sell at full price to sustain healthy profit margins.16 This strategy created new 
market segments to increase top line growth while minimizing channel conflicts, i.e., cannibalization of 
5 
sales. 
2.2 Supply Chain & Inventory Management 
ANN does not manufacture its apparel merchandise like most traditional retailers. But rather 
develops its designs in-house and then outsources the production process to independent manufactures.17 
In Fiscal 2013, ANN outsourced production to “133 manufacturers and vendors in 17 countries, and no 
single supplier accounted for more than 10% of merchandise purchased on either a unit or cost basis” to 
diversify its risk in the event of a disaster or disruption in the supply chain.18 
ANN responded to the external ethical risks in the global supply chain by creating its (controllable) 
Global Suppliers Principles and Guidelines.19 In January 2013, ANN joined the Sustainable Apparel 
Coalition (SAC) making it the first woman’s retailer to join a trade association who are committed to supply 
chain sustainability.20 These commitments are a result from ANN’s commitment to the fair treatment of 
humans, sustainability of (natural) resources, and its environmental stewardship. They also provide cost 
savings in the supply chain by creating efficiencies by developing standardization for improvement of 
performance.21 
16 Ann Taylor Stores, 2002 Annual Report, pg. 3 
17 Ann Inc., 2013 Annual Report, pg. 3. 
18 Ibid, pg. 27. 
19 See www.responsiblyann.com/downloads/GlobalSupplierGuidelines2012.pdf 
20 Marketline, Ann Inc. Company Profile, September 2013, pg. 20 
21 ANN Inc., ANN INC. Furthers Commitment to Environmental Sustainability, Becoming First Women's Specialty Retailer to Join 
Sustainable Apparel Coalition, (2014). http://investor.anntaylor.com/phoenix.zhtml?c=78167&p=irol-newsArticle& 
ID=1772719&highlight
To increase its global presence, ANN launched international shipping on its e-commerce sites 
(anntaylor.com and loft.com) in March 2013. This strategy will not only increase its sales opportunities 
but will also provide essential market research in global markets to determine further market expansion 
strategies.22 ANN will continue to expand into foreign markets in North America in 2015. 
6 
III. ANN’s Re s pons e to Zara (Fast Fashion) 
ANN has many direct and indirect competitors. The top three direct competitors are J Crew Brand Group, 
Banana Republic, Talbots, and New York Company.23 But one of the largest indirect global competitors is 
Zara. Inditex, parent company of Zara, is one of the largest fashion retail groups in the world with eight 
brands and over 6,460 stores in 88 global markets. Inditex revolutionized the industry because it broke 
away from traditional outsourcing and manufactures half of its merchandise in its own factories in Spain, 
Portugal, and Morocco.24 The six month production speed is dramatically reduced from 6 months to two 
weeks that create efficiencies in its supply chain and minimize business risk because its merchandise is 
always fresh and in demand. Zara’s value position is providing cheap chic, meaning trendy clothing at a 
low price compared to full price designer items. Inditex’s business model inspired Forever 21 and H&M 
that directly compete with ANN and traditional clothing brands. 
While there is no explicit mention to a response to Inditex’s fast fashion business model in any of ANN’s 
public statements, one can conclude by inference that ANN was aware of the impact Zara and others have 
with the change in demand and their strategy to segment the market and target younger women who are 
sensitive to price.25 But adapting to trendy fashions in a timely matter is not at the core of what the real 
question that ANN must address. The real question presented to ANN from fast fashion is: How can costs 
and lead times be reduced in the supply chain without compromising quality to maximize full price 
22 Ann Inc., 2013 Annual Report, pg. 3. 
23 Ibid, pg. 6. 
24 Capell, Kerry. 2008. “Zara Thrives by Breaking All the Rules.” Businessweek no.4104:066. Business Source 
Premier, EBSCOhost (accessed May 15, 2014). 
25 Merrick, Amy. "Once a Bellwether, Ann Taylor Fights Its Stodgy Image." The Wall Street Journal. Dow Jones & 
Company, 12 July 2005. Web. 1 Sept. 2014. 
http://online.wsj.com/articles/SB112113223375783015
retailing? As part of a three-year restructuring strategy, ANN focused on its onmi-channel strategy that 
maximizes ANN’s ability to gain buying power by “buying fabrics and yearns early to guarantee prices, 
utilizing off-cycle production, and ‘value engineering,” whereby vendors bid online for production like an 
auction, and tweaking garments” that does not affect the quality to what matters most to customers.26 ANN 
continues to examine ways to increase lead times but more importantly, focus on its core target market of 
professional women ages 25-45, who need appropriate attire for work but also have various demands for 
their active lifestyle. ANN also is in the process of remodeling its Ann Taylor stores making them smaller 
so increase productivity and designed to reflect ANN’s modern aspirational brand aesthetic (see Appendix 
7 
for the store pictures).27 
IV. Current Situation 
ANN has increased net sales incrementally since the Great Recession and is growing at a modest rate 
because of its ability to adapt to the external environment, particularly by its brand extensions that attract 
new customers while preserving its value position to its core customer base from Ann Taylor. ANN is in 
its second phase of its omni-channel initiative aimed at providing a seamless shopping experience through 
its channels.28 In Fiscal 2013, ANN increased sales by 5% ($118 million) due in part to an increase in 
online sales but increased operating costs because of shipping.29 ANN’s gross margins for Fiscal 2013, 
however, are within its historical level at 53.9%.30 However, Fiscal 2014 has been a challenging year for 
ANN and for retailers in general. 
In the first quarter of Fiscal 2014, ANN, faced challenging (external) environmental conditions with 
severe winter weather (extreme cold temperatures) that resulted in soft traffic and higher than anticipated 
promotional environment from its competitors.31 Comparable sales were down 2% overall and the gross 
26 Moin, David. 2011. “Growing Ann Taylor Get a New Moniker.” WWD: Women’s Wear Daily 201, no. 52: 8-1. 
Business Source Premier, EBSCOhost (accessed September 1, 2014). See also: Ann Inc., 2013 Annual Report, pg. 3. 
27 Ann Inc., 2013 Annual Report, pg. 25. 
28 Ibid, pg. 41. 
29 Ibid, pg.24, 46. 
30 ANN’s historical level of gross margin is 52.5-53.5% see Appendix for ANN’s gross margin data since 2000. 
31 "ANN INC. (ANN)." Ann Inc.'s (ANN) CEO Kay Krill on Q1 2014 Results. N.p., 30 May 2014. Web. 1 Sept. 2014.
margin rate was 53.4%. ANN predicted that the second quarter of Fiscal 2014 would be offset the low 
performance of the first quarter. The second quarter results were positive with strong first half results 
(Easter as the primary driver for sales), however, the second half proved to be a “retailing hangover” with 
soft traffic and an increase in promotional activity.32 Despite an increase of $11 million from last year in 
the second quarter, comparable sales were down 2% due to a decrease in Ann Taylor Factory.33 While the 
gross margin rate decreased to 52.4%, which is below ANN’s historical gross margin “sweet spot.” 34 A 
decrease of 5% of LOFT is attributed to “a weakness in demand for knit tops which represented 20% of the 
inventory of the assortment for the second quarter.”35 LOFT outlet, however, proved to be the hero for 
ANN with an increase of 16% with higher UPTs that overcame a highly promotional environment in the 
outlet store sector.36 For the third quarter of Fiscal 2014, ANN lowered its outlook for 2014 and its stock 
price fell by almost 5% and prompted Engine Capital and Red Alder to publicly challenge ANN’s 
management ability to adapt to the changing business environment and its lack of international expansion.37 
Consequently, ANN responded publicly and retained JPMorgan to shop the retailer around and explore its 
options to meet its fiduciary obligation to its stakeholders.38 Speculation around potential buyers are Acena 
Retail, Chicho’s FAS, and Fast Retailing despite ANN’s largest investor, Golden Gate Capital is not looking 
to sell and is happy with ANN’s management team and strategy. 
http://www.nasdaq.com/aspx/call -transcript.aspx?StoryId=2246003&Title=ann-inc-s-ann-ceo-kay-krill-on-q1- 
2014-results-earnings-call-transcript 
32 "Ann Q2 Profit Down 8%, But Results Beat View; Lowers 2014 Sales Outlook." NASDAQ.com. N.p., 22 Aug. 2014. 
Web. 2 Sept. 2014. 
http://www.nasdaq.com/article/ann-q2-profit-down-8-but-results-beat-view-lowers-2014-sales-outlook- 
20140822-00212 
33 Ibid. 
34 Ibid. 
35 Ibid. 
36 Ibid. 
37 "Why Is Ann Being Pressed To Sell The Company?" - Ann, Inc. (NYSE:ANN). N.p., 28 Aug. 2014. Web. 2 Sept. 2014. 
http://seekingalpha.com/article/2456335-why-is-ann-being-pressed-to-sell-the-company 
38 Oran, Olivia, and Soyoung Kim. "Ann Taylor Parent Taps JPMorgan to Weigh Potential Sale: Sources." Reuters. 
Thomson Reuters, 26 Aug. 2014. Web. 3 Sept. 2014. 
http://www.reuters.com/article/2014/08/26/us -ann-inc-sale-idUSKBN0GQ1MG20140826 
8
9 
V. Recommendation 
There are two primary challenges ANN has to overcome in the short term. ANN will need to address 
its merchandising strategy with Ann Taylor and Ann Factory. Both channels underperformed in the second 
quarter because the merchandise mix was off. ANN will examine its in-house design teams for Ann Taylor 
and Ann Factory to ensure 2015 has the correct merchandise mix for its core customer. Market research 
should be conducted to uncover the reason why knits were not selling to its main customer base to determine 
if this is a momentary shift in demand or something permanent. Despite Inditex using RDIF chips to 
determine demand and control in the supply chain, ANN does not need to invest in RDIF chips at this time 
because of their niche market and much smaller stores and inventory.39 ANN, however, will need to 
accelerate its onmi-channel strategy to that will reduce inventory risks and leverage scale in order to 
increase full price sales by creating market models to predict demand of items appropriate to the consumers 
within a retail trade area. 
The second challenge for ANN is expanding into foreign markets to increase top line revenue growth. 
ANN will continue to leverage its offering of international shipping to determine what foreign markets are 
viable. While there is a sense of urgency from some investors to expand rapidly, ANN’s expansion should 
not be done hastily. ANN is a very different brand that serves a niche market and sell full price items. 
ANN would be better off moving cautiously into foreign markets because of the risk of moving away from 
its business model of selling full price items. While Ann Taylor makes sense in Canada and Mexico for 
2014, full price outlet products should be the focus for international expansion. The global trend for 
moderate priced items that are in fashion will be the “sweet spot” for ANN. But it is also the long term 
prospect for ANN domestically. Lou & Grey has the most potential for ANN to increase top line growth 
because of its appeal to younger women and ANN will continue to open stores in mid-level markets. 
39 Bjork, Christopher. "Zara Builds Its Business Around RFID: 'Fast Fashion' Meets Smarter Inventory; Retailer 
Learns From Others' Mistakes." The Wall Street Journal. Dow Jones & Company, 16 Sept. 2014. Web. 17 Sept. 
2014. 
http://online.wsj.com/articles/at-zara-fast-fashion-meets-smarter-inventory-1410884519
ANN’s best prospect for continued growth is to either avoid sale (since the offer is undervalued) or to 
go private.40 As ANN is being shopped around, senior management needs to explore a private equity 
acquisition with its largest investor, Golden Gate Capital. ANN has one of the best management teams 
under chief executive officer, Kay Krill. This management team has a proved track record of their agility 
to respond to the external environment and provide all stakeholders value. But what is different about ANN 
and its management team is they understand women—its core client. Breaking up this management team 
and this model in a sale at this point will be adverse for all stakeholders and the brand. 
10 
VI. Conclusion: 
While looking at Inditex’s (Zara) ability to reduce costs and risks is fascinating, one should never 
overlook the importance of creating a powerful brand. As The Economist eloquently reminded its readers, 
“[b]rands are the most valuable assets many companies possess.” There is no question that if ANN had not 
created the LOFT concept and started exploring new market segments and more affordable products 
through its outlet stores, the company would not have been able to survive the Great Recession and grow 
at the rate that it has. But the success of LOFT would not have been without the strong brand equity of 
Ann Taylor. By maintaining full control of its marketing channels and distribution, ANN preserved its 
brand equity. 
Even though ANN’s future is uncertain, their strong brand equity along with the ability to cost costs, 
leverage scale, will be the successful formula to accomplish its mission of “inspiring [and] connecting with 
women to put their best selves forward every day” for generations to come. 
40 If ANN were to remain in the public sector, many analysts feel the stock is undervalued when considering ANN 
has no debt and self-finances its remodeling and new stores openings. But other analysts are uncertain of ANN’s 
future and recommend investors to sell. While this paper is more focused on marketing channels, it approaches 
this question from a branding perspective and the equity ANN has in the market place and recommends ANN to go 
private to avoid external pressures from investors to generate profits in the short term and the issue of 
international expansion.
Ann Taylor 
Ann Taylor Factory 
LOFT 
LOFT Outlet 
1.8 
NET SALES 
(in billions) 
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 
'00 '01 '02 '03 '04 '05 '06 '07 '08 '09 '10 '11 '12 '13 
Gross Margin Rate 
54.4 
(in percent) 
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 
'00 '01 '02 '03 '04 '05 '06 '07 '08 '09 '10 '11 '12 '13 
11 
Appendix: 
Figure 1: Ann Inc.’s % of Total Sales 
Ann Inc. FY2013 
27% 
10% 
51% 12% 
1.2 1.3 1.4 
1.6 
1.9 
2.1 
2.3 2.4 
2.2 
2 
2.2 
2.4 2.5 
49.5 49.8 
54.1 54.5 
51.1 50.9 
53.7 
52.2 
48.1 
55.8 
54.8 54.6 53.9 
Source: Ann Inc., 2013 Annual Report. NOTE: Gross Margins is one of t he major metrics in supply chain management because it reflects t he firm’s 
direct abilit y t o control the direct cost of merchandise, which includes t ransportation. Zara’s gross margin rate was 56.5 p ercent in the second 
quarter for 2014. Source: https://uk.news.yahoo.com/zara-owner-inditexs-first -half-profit -slips-beats-062425247--finance.html#cxefpoT
12 
Ann’s Channel Map: 
3rd party 
DC 
art 
y 
DC 
D 
C 
Dc 
D 
C 
ANN INC.’s Dis tribution Strate gy: 
DC 
Our primary distribution center is located in Louisville, Kentucky, as discussed further in “Properties.” 
The majority of our merchandise is processed through our Louisville facility, which we own and operate. 
Additionally, we contract with third-party fulfillment vendors, utilizing a Bolingbrook, IL facility to 
fulfill online orders and a Toronto, Ontario facility for merchandise allocation to our Canadian stores. We 
also utilize a third-party distribution center bypass facility in Industry, CA. While a portion of our 
merchandise is processed through this bypass facility for direct distribution to our stores, it serves 
primarily as a trans-loading facility and a back-up distribution center in the event of a disaster. 
Source: Ann Inc., 2013 Annual Report. Pg.27. 
Economic Environment Report: 
The Consumer Price Index (CPI) for Woman’s Apparel increased by 3.8% and overall inflation 
exceeded expectations and increased by 2.1%.41 The Unites States economy is improving but there are 
still many risk factors with housing, higher student debt, and monetary policies that are volatile. 42 
41 U.S. Department of Commerce. U.S. Census Bureau Consumer Price Index. 
http://www.bls.gov/cpi/cpid1405.pdf 
42 Goldman Sacks, United States Economic Outlook Midyear (June 2014). 
http://www.goldmansachs.com/our-thinking/outlook/jan-hatzius-economic-outlook-us-mid-yr-2014.html
Unemployment declined slightly to 6.1% and Gross Domestic Product (GDP) is expected to rise annual 
from 2 to 2.5% each year despite early indications of a decrease.43 The United States trade deficit fell 0.6% 
to $40.5 billion that provide cautious optimism for the economy growth in part for the global demand in 
U.S. food, beverages and automobiles.44 The U. S. Dollar has been appreciating against other currencies, 
potentially lowering the input costs for producers that outsource manufacturing to, or import from, other 
13 
countries.45 
Since Ann sells commodity items, the gradual growth in the economy is likely to have a positive impact 
on Ann’s operating results despite soft sales in Q2 and Q3 in FY2014.46 The increase in consumer spending 
is likely to translate to increase in sales but the highly promotional season will likely pose a threat to Ann’s 
gross margins. An appreciation in U.S. currency—Ann pays its international suppliers in U.S. dollars— 
may buoy its operating results particularly since the world price for cotton has dramatically fallen to less 
than 65 cents per pound.47 
Technological Report: 
The Internet poses both an opportunity and treat for retailers. The Internet provides firms operating in the 
industry with a relatively lower-cost channel to reach its customers. But it also provides an easier entry for 
new entrants that have increased competition, often in the form of cheaper alternatives or substitutes that 
can steal market share from established brick-and-mortar retailers. Retailers must seek ways to integrate 
its in-store experience and on-line experience to create its own competitive advantage or seek niche markets 
in order to capture revenue. 
43 Ibid. 
44 U.S. News & World Report, US trade deficit falls slightly to 5-month low in July; export growth outpaces rise in 
imports (September 2014) 
http://www.usnews.com/news/business/articles/2014/09/04/us -trade-gap-narrows-in-july 
45 FOREX Market News, US Dollar Poised for Further Appreciation versus Yen (September, 2014). 
http://www.dailyfx.com/forex/technical/ssi/usd-jpy/2014/09/04/ssi_usd-jpy.html 
46 See http://seekingalpha.com/article/2246003-ann-inc-s-ann-ceo-kay-krill-on-q1-2014-results-earnings-call-transcript 
; http://seekingalpha.com/article/2445325-anns-ann-ceo-kay-krill-on-q2-2014-results-earnings-call-transcript 
47 Textile World, Cotton Prices, Consumer Confidence Create Concern (September/October 2014). 
http://www.textileworld.com/Issues/2014/September_October/Yarn_Market/Cotton_Prices_Consumer_Confiden 
ce_Create_Concern
The most disruptive technological innovation is the 3D printer. For the first time in New York Fashion 
Week’s history, models walked down the runway in 3D printed clothing and accessories.48 This technology 
will not only revolutionize trends, but will significantly reduce lead times from design to production that 
will significantly reduce costs in the supply chain once the initial costs of investment have been realized. 
Firms will have the ability to add mass customization to their existing business model and even offer co-creating 
in the design process. As the technology for 3D printed clothing evolves, analysts at Gartner 
predict the adoption is still three to five years away—sometime in 2020.49 This new technology will 
dramatically and quite violently disrupt operations for clothing retailers, which is also a treat and 
opportunity for retailers and manufactures and should be keenly watched as this technology improves and 
14 
adopts in the industry. 
The biggest treat in the technological environment is the increase and success of cyber-attacks and 
breaches in retailer’s networks. While there have been other cyber-attacks and security breaches in the 
past, the 2013 Target data breach adversely affected revenues, brand equity, and missed opportunities. 
Gartner is predicting that cost of global data security will increase to 7.9% or $71.1 billion dollars in 2014.50 
Retailers are expected to increase spending on security that will adversely affect gross profits. 
48 Time Warner News, 3D Printed Clothing Debuts on the Runway During Fashion Week (March 2014) 
http://www.ny1.com/content/lifestyles/tech_talk/203595/3d-printed-clothing-debuts-on-the-runway-during-fashion- 
week 
49 3D Printing Industry, Consumer 3D Printing More than 5 Years Away from Mainstream Adoption, Says Gartner 
(2014). 
http://3dprintingindustry.com/2014/08/20/consumer -3d-printing-5-years-away-mainstream-adoption-says-gartner/ 
50 Gartner, Gartner Worldwide IT Spending Forecast (2014). 
http://www.gartner.com/technology/research/it-spending-forecast/
15 
Ann Taylor New Store Aesthetic: 
Location: Southdale Mall, Edina MN. 
NOTE: These stores are merchandised to rep licate a woman’s walk-in closet to create the Ann Taylor experience. Since this 
experience is a competitive advantage, ANN will not depart from its direct merchandising s trategy.

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Lofty Ambitions: ANN's Response to Zara's Fast Fashion

  • 1. Lofty Ambitions: Ann’s Response to Zara’s Fast Fashion Trend 1 Reggie Aspelund MKTG 350-01 Prof. Seltzer Introduction: Ann Taylor (ANN) has been dressing busy, socially upscale, women with its classic black dress styles since 1954.1 For over forty years, Ann was a leader in Woman’s specialty clothes because of its total wardrobing strategy, personalized service, and strong brand equity. During the 1990s as competition increased along with ANN’s inability to predict fashion trends for the workplace, their appeal to its longstanding customer base eroded. ANN’s business model depends on her ability to predict demand and design “classic” fashion since manufacturing is outsourced with a six month lead time from design to product in stores. In contrast, Zara has become one of the largest and successful retailers in the world. Zara targets both young men and women who are highly sensitive to the latest fashion trends and have revolutionary supply chain and distribution models that dramatically reduced traditional product lead times from six months to two weeks. Despite the fact Zara has a different target market and value proposition, ANN responded to this radical shift in the competitive environment that caused young consumers an insatiable demand for the latest trends. This paper will explore ANN’s business model to Zara and conclude that ANN’s response to fast fashion is her ability to maximize brand equity to create brand extensions, i,e,, Loft, to meet the demand for more casual and trendy clothes while leveraging ‘scale’ to reduce costs in its supply chain and distribution. I. Industry Analysis: Overview The retail apparel industry is highly competitive with many companies trying to steal market share by creating a product that is perceived by consumers as fashionable and trendy. Companies must find other ways to differentiate their product(s) from the competition or provide value-added services such as exceptional customer service and exceptional in-store and on-line experiences. Marketing strategies are 1 For the purpose of this paper, Ann Inc., parent company of Ann Taylor a nd LOFT, is referenced as ANN.
  • 2. focused on the target market’s wants, needs, and perception in this industry because the end consumer has the highest bargaining power (see Appendix for industry supply chain and distribution channel strategies). 2 1.1 Economic Environment The state of the economy has a significant impact on the retail apparel industry. When the economic conditions and consumer sentiments are perceived as doing well, consumers are more willing and able to purchase new products. According to IBIS World, the economic forecast for industry revenue is expected to grow 2.1% to reach $44.1 billion due to rising consumer confidence and increased discretionary spending on dresses, accessories and other women's items.2 A positive trend of industry growth of 2.1% is expected to continue through 2019 (See Appendix for full report). 1.2 Regulatory Environment There are several trade regulations that are important to consider as part of the regulatory environment. The North American Free Trade Agreement (NAFTA) between the United States, Canada, and Mexico, removed the majority of trade barriers since 2009.3 In 1995, the World Trade Organization’s “Agreement and Textile and Clothing” allowed a reduction in import quotas. In 2005, this Agreement resulted in the removal of all restriction on the import of textiles and clothing. On September 30, 2010, the Governor of California signed into law the California Transparency in Supply Chains Act that profoundly changed the industry sourcing practices.4 In 2009, the federal minimum wage (for nonexempt workers) was increased to $7.25 by 10.6%. There is renewed pressure from President Obama for Congress to increase the federal minimum wage to somewhere around $10.00 or more an hour sometime before 2015. 5 Labor costs are expected to increase in the short term. 2IBISWorld Industry Report 44812 (2014) Women’s Clothing Stores in the US, pg. 6. 3 U.S. Department of Agriculture, North American Free Trade Agreement (NAFTA) http://www.ers.usda.gov/topics/in ternational-markets-trade/countries-regions/nafta,-canada-mexico.aspx 4 "Cal ifornia Transparency in Supply Chains Act Takes Effect January 1, 2012." Corporate Law Report. JD Supra, 9 Sept. 2011. Web. 1 Sept. 2014. http://corporatelaw.jdsupra.com/post/california-transparency-in-supply-chains-takes-effect 5 Huetteman, Emmarie. "Obama Calls for Minimum Wage Rise and Equa l Pay as Elections Approach." The New York Times. The New York Times, 01 Sept. 2014. Web. 1 Sept. 2014. http://www.nytimes.com/2014/09/02/us/politics/obama-takes-to-road-to-push-rise-in-minimum-wage.html?_r=0
  • 3. 3 1.3 Technology Environment Technology is a critical infrastructural component of operations in this industry. Point-of-Sale (POS) technologies to automate transactions, inventory levels to provide decision making support, are required in order to stay competitive and lower costs in the supply chain. Retails are embracing and spending significant amounts to create a strategic and logistical advantage or, in other cases, to even the playing field with larger competitors and ensure network security. Increased spending is expected in the short term (see Appendix for full report). 1.4 Social-Cultural Environment We are in the midst of a radical shift in living patterns. People, particularly young professionals, are moving away from the rural areas to major cities to be close to their jobs and enjoy the utility of various retail, restaurants, sporting events, and other forms of entertainment offered in the city.6 According to Pew Research Center, the population in the United State will rise to 438 million in 2050, and “82% of the increase will be to immigrants arriving from 2005 to 2050.”7 As these tetanic shifts in demographics occur in the United States and around the globe, understanding the micro market and retail activity is imperative for strategic retail locations.8 6 ENGEN, JOHN. 2014. "HOT IN THE CITY." American Banker Magazine 124, no. 3: 18-25. Business Source Premier, EBSCOhost (accessed September 1, 2014). http://www.americanbanker.com/magazine/124_03/hot-in-the-city-what-the-urban-revival -means-for-banks- 1066401-1.html 7 "U.S. Population Projections: 2005-2050." Pew Research Centers Social Demographic Trends Project RSS. Pew Research, 11 Feb. 2008. Web. 1 Sept. 2014. http://www.pewsocialtrends.org/2008/02/11/us -population-projections-2005-2050/ NOTE: The Hispanic population has leveled off since this report. However the Hispanic population is predicted remain the largest group of immigrants. See also: Passel, Jeffrey, D'vera Cohn, Jen Krustad, and Ana Gonzalez- Barrera. "As Growth Stalls, Unauthorized Immigrant Population Becomes More Settled." Pew Research Centers Hispanic Trends Project RSS. Pew Research Centers, 3 Sept. 2014. Web. 18 Sept. 2014: http://www.pewhispanic.org/2014/09/03/as -growth-stalls-unauthorized-immigrant-population-becomes-more-settled/; "Reports Consumer." Latina Power Shift. Nielsen, 1 Aug. 2014. Web. 19 Sept. 2014: http://www.nielsen.com/us/en/insights/reports/2013/latina -power-shift.html 8 "Reports Consumer." 2014 State of the Shopping Center. Nielsen, 18 May 2014. Web. 5 Sept. 2014. http://www.nielsen.com/us/en/insights/reports/2014/2014-state-of-the-shopping-center.html
  • 4. 4 II ANN’s Brand Strate gy In response to a shift in consumer behavior and increased competition, Ann Taylor Stores Corporation changed its name to ANN Inc. The strategy is to position itself as a lifestyle brand that understand women and their various roles and life stages with five platforms that appeal to various segments under the strong brand name of Ann Taylor. ANN has four platforms for its omni-channel retailing strategy—Ann Taylor, LOFT, Ann Taylor Factory9,LOFT Outlet, and Lou & Grey—with 1,025 stores and annual revenues of $2.5 billion in 2013.10 Ann Taylor targets affluent women and is positioned as their “go-to destination” for “wear-to-work wardrobe” and “special occasion needs.”11 While Loft on the other hand targets younger women that are more price sensitive (elastic demand) and positioned as “[the] destination for great everyday fashion at affordable prices.12 The LOFT brand contributes the most significant part of the company’s sales revenue (see Figure 1).13 The latest brand extension is Lou & Grey that launched in the fall of 2014. Lou & Gray is being positioned as a lifestyle brand to appeal to young women who are more active but fashionable, as their tag line is: “Clothing for a comfortably confident life.”14 Lou & Gray has received positive reviews since opening in selected cities and will continue to expand into 2015. 2.1 ANN’s Bus ine s s Mode l ANN is a specialty retailer of woman’s apparel, shoes and accessories. ANN’s mission is “to inspire and connect with our clients to put their best selves forward every day.”15 In order to fulfill its mission, ANN is a direct merchandiser and is in full control of its all of its marketing channels to ensure its brand promise (see Appendix for channel map). 9 Ann Taylor Factory is an outlet store with a merchandising strategy similar to Ann Taylor but 30% less. 10 Ann Inc., 2013 Annual Report, pg. 3. 11 Ibid, pg.3. 12 Ibid, pg.3. 13 Ibid, pg. 22. 14 Raczka, Rachel. "Lou & Grey: Part Startup, Part Established Retail Brand - The Boston Globe." BostonGlobe.com. Boston Globe Media Partners, LLC, 17 Sept. 2014. Web. 18 Sept. 2014. http://www.bostonglobe.com/lifestyle/style/2014/09/17/lou-grey-part-startup-part-established-retail-brand/ tRoUuQA1vLxIIO5tO7sJnI/story.html 15 Ibid, pg.23.
  • 5. Originally its outlet channel, Ann Taylor Factory, carried overstocks that were sourced from underperforming Ann Taylor and later LOFT stores. But since the company’s business model is to offer full priced clothing with higher margins, ANN leveraged ‘scale’ and created separate merchandise for its outlet stores. With tighter inventory management controls, ANN is able to produce inventory for its channels that is meant to sell at full price to sustain healthy profit margins.16 This strategy created new market segments to increase top line growth while minimizing channel conflicts, i.e., cannibalization of 5 sales. 2.2 Supply Chain & Inventory Management ANN does not manufacture its apparel merchandise like most traditional retailers. But rather develops its designs in-house and then outsources the production process to independent manufactures.17 In Fiscal 2013, ANN outsourced production to “133 manufacturers and vendors in 17 countries, and no single supplier accounted for more than 10% of merchandise purchased on either a unit or cost basis” to diversify its risk in the event of a disaster or disruption in the supply chain.18 ANN responded to the external ethical risks in the global supply chain by creating its (controllable) Global Suppliers Principles and Guidelines.19 In January 2013, ANN joined the Sustainable Apparel Coalition (SAC) making it the first woman’s retailer to join a trade association who are committed to supply chain sustainability.20 These commitments are a result from ANN’s commitment to the fair treatment of humans, sustainability of (natural) resources, and its environmental stewardship. They also provide cost savings in the supply chain by creating efficiencies by developing standardization for improvement of performance.21 16 Ann Taylor Stores, 2002 Annual Report, pg. 3 17 Ann Inc., 2013 Annual Report, pg. 3. 18 Ibid, pg. 27. 19 See www.responsiblyann.com/downloads/GlobalSupplierGuidelines2012.pdf 20 Marketline, Ann Inc. Company Profile, September 2013, pg. 20 21 ANN Inc., ANN INC. Furthers Commitment to Environmental Sustainability, Becoming First Women's Specialty Retailer to Join Sustainable Apparel Coalition, (2014). http://investor.anntaylor.com/phoenix.zhtml?c=78167&p=irol-newsArticle& ID=1772719&highlight
  • 6. To increase its global presence, ANN launched international shipping on its e-commerce sites (anntaylor.com and loft.com) in March 2013. This strategy will not only increase its sales opportunities but will also provide essential market research in global markets to determine further market expansion strategies.22 ANN will continue to expand into foreign markets in North America in 2015. 6 III. ANN’s Re s pons e to Zara (Fast Fashion) ANN has many direct and indirect competitors. The top three direct competitors are J Crew Brand Group, Banana Republic, Talbots, and New York Company.23 But one of the largest indirect global competitors is Zara. Inditex, parent company of Zara, is one of the largest fashion retail groups in the world with eight brands and over 6,460 stores in 88 global markets. Inditex revolutionized the industry because it broke away from traditional outsourcing and manufactures half of its merchandise in its own factories in Spain, Portugal, and Morocco.24 The six month production speed is dramatically reduced from 6 months to two weeks that create efficiencies in its supply chain and minimize business risk because its merchandise is always fresh and in demand. Zara’s value position is providing cheap chic, meaning trendy clothing at a low price compared to full price designer items. Inditex’s business model inspired Forever 21 and H&M that directly compete with ANN and traditional clothing brands. While there is no explicit mention to a response to Inditex’s fast fashion business model in any of ANN’s public statements, one can conclude by inference that ANN was aware of the impact Zara and others have with the change in demand and their strategy to segment the market and target younger women who are sensitive to price.25 But adapting to trendy fashions in a timely matter is not at the core of what the real question that ANN must address. The real question presented to ANN from fast fashion is: How can costs and lead times be reduced in the supply chain without compromising quality to maximize full price 22 Ann Inc., 2013 Annual Report, pg. 3. 23 Ibid, pg. 6. 24 Capell, Kerry. 2008. “Zara Thrives by Breaking All the Rules.” Businessweek no.4104:066. Business Source Premier, EBSCOhost (accessed May 15, 2014). 25 Merrick, Amy. "Once a Bellwether, Ann Taylor Fights Its Stodgy Image." The Wall Street Journal. Dow Jones & Company, 12 July 2005. Web. 1 Sept. 2014. http://online.wsj.com/articles/SB112113223375783015
  • 7. retailing? As part of a three-year restructuring strategy, ANN focused on its onmi-channel strategy that maximizes ANN’s ability to gain buying power by “buying fabrics and yearns early to guarantee prices, utilizing off-cycle production, and ‘value engineering,” whereby vendors bid online for production like an auction, and tweaking garments” that does not affect the quality to what matters most to customers.26 ANN continues to examine ways to increase lead times but more importantly, focus on its core target market of professional women ages 25-45, who need appropriate attire for work but also have various demands for their active lifestyle. ANN also is in the process of remodeling its Ann Taylor stores making them smaller so increase productivity and designed to reflect ANN’s modern aspirational brand aesthetic (see Appendix 7 for the store pictures).27 IV. Current Situation ANN has increased net sales incrementally since the Great Recession and is growing at a modest rate because of its ability to adapt to the external environment, particularly by its brand extensions that attract new customers while preserving its value position to its core customer base from Ann Taylor. ANN is in its second phase of its omni-channel initiative aimed at providing a seamless shopping experience through its channels.28 In Fiscal 2013, ANN increased sales by 5% ($118 million) due in part to an increase in online sales but increased operating costs because of shipping.29 ANN’s gross margins for Fiscal 2013, however, are within its historical level at 53.9%.30 However, Fiscal 2014 has been a challenging year for ANN and for retailers in general. In the first quarter of Fiscal 2014, ANN, faced challenging (external) environmental conditions with severe winter weather (extreme cold temperatures) that resulted in soft traffic and higher than anticipated promotional environment from its competitors.31 Comparable sales were down 2% overall and the gross 26 Moin, David. 2011. “Growing Ann Taylor Get a New Moniker.” WWD: Women’s Wear Daily 201, no. 52: 8-1. Business Source Premier, EBSCOhost (accessed September 1, 2014). See also: Ann Inc., 2013 Annual Report, pg. 3. 27 Ann Inc., 2013 Annual Report, pg. 25. 28 Ibid, pg. 41. 29 Ibid, pg.24, 46. 30 ANN’s historical level of gross margin is 52.5-53.5% see Appendix for ANN’s gross margin data since 2000. 31 "ANN INC. (ANN)." Ann Inc.'s (ANN) CEO Kay Krill on Q1 2014 Results. N.p., 30 May 2014. Web. 1 Sept. 2014.
  • 8. margin rate was 53.4%. ANN predicted that the second quarter of Fiscal 2014 would be offset the low performance of the first quarter. The second quarter results were positive with strong first half results (Easter as the primary driver for sales), however, the second half proved to be a “retailing hangover” with soft traffic and an increase in promotional activity.32 Despite an increase of $11 million from last year in the second quarter, comparable sales were down 2% due to a decrease in Ann Taylor Factory.33 While the gross margin rate decreased to 52.4%, which is below ANN’s historical gross margin “sweet spot.” 34 A decrease of 5% of LOFT is attributed to “a weakness in demand for knit tops which represented 20% of the inventory of the assortment for the second quarter.”35 LOFT outlet, however, proved to be the hero for ANN with an increase of 16% with higher UPTs that overcame a highly promotional environment in the outlet store sector.36 For the third quarter of Fiscal 2014, ANN lowered its outlook for 2014 and its stock price fell by almost 5% and prompted Engine Capital and Red Alder to publicly challenge ANN’s management ability to adapt to the changing business environment and its lack of international expansion.37 Consequently, ANN responded publicly and retained JPMorgan to shop the retailer around and explore its options to meet its fiduciary obligation to its stakeholders.38 Speculation around potential buyers are Acena Retail, Chicho’s FAS, and Fast Retailing despite ANN’s largest investor, Golden Gate Capital is not looking to sell and is happy with ANN’s management team and strategy. http://www.nasdaq.com/aspx/call -transcript.aspx?StoryId=2246003&Title=ann-inc-s-ann-ceo-kay-krill-on-q1- 2014-results-earnings-call-transcript 32 "Ann Q2 Profit Down 8%, But Results Beat View; Lowers 2014 Sales Outlook." NASDAQ.com. N.p., 22 Aug. 2014. Web. 2 Sept. 2014. http://www.nasdaq.com/article/ann-q2-profit-down-8-but-results-beat-view-lowers-2014-sales-outlook- 20140822-00212 33 Ibid. 34 Ibid. 35 Ibid. 36 Ibid. 37 "Why Is Ann Being Pressed To Sell The Company?" - Ann, Inc. (NYSE:ANN). N.p., 28 Aug. 2014. Web. 2 Sept. 2014. http://seekingalpha.com/article/2456335-why-is-ann-being-pressed-to-sell-the-company 38 Oran, Olivia, and Soyoung Kim. "Ann Taylor Parent Taps JPMorgan to Weigh Potential Sale: Sources." Reuters. Thomson Reuters, 26 Aug. 2014. Web. 3 Sept. 2014. http://www.reuters.com/article/2014/08/26/us -ann-inc-sale-idUSKBN0GQ1MG20140826 8
  • 9. 9 V. Recommendation There are two primary challenges ANN has to overcome in the short term. ANN will need to address its merchandising strategy with Ann Taylor and Ann Factory. Both channels underperformed in the second quarter because the merchandise mix was off. ANN will examine its in-house design teams for Ann Taylor and Ann Factory to ensure 2015 has the correct merchandise mix for its core customer. Market research should be conducted to uncover the reason why knits were not selling to its main customer base to determine if this is a momentary shift in demand or something permanent. Despite Inditex using RDIF chips to determine demand and control in the supply chain, ANN does not need to invest in RDIF chips at this time because of their niche market and much smaller stores and inventory.39 ANN, however, will need to accelerate its onmi-channel strategy to that will reduce inventory risks and leverage scale in order to increase full price sales by creating market models to predict demand of items appropriate to the consumers within a retail trade area. The second challenge for ANN is expanding into foreign markets to increase top line revenue growth. ANN will continue to leverage its offering of international shipping to determine what foreign markets are viable. While there is a sense of urgency from some investors to expand rapidly, ANN’s expansion should not be done hastily. ANN is a very different brand that serves a niche market and sell full price items. ANN would be better off moving cautiously into foreign markets because of the risk of moving away from its business model of selling full price items. While Ann Taylor makes sense in Canada and Mexico for 2014, full price outlet products should be the focus for international expansion. The global trend for moderate priced items that are in fashion will be the “sweet spot” for ANN. But it is also the long term prospect for ANN domestically. Lou & Grey has the most potential for ANN to increase top line growth because of its appeal to younger women and ANN will continue to open stores in mid-level markets. 39 Bjork, Christopher. "Zara Builds Its Business Around RFID: 'Fast Fashion' Meets Smarter Inventory; Retailer Learns From Others' Mistakes." The Wall Street Journal. Dow Jones & Company, 16 Sept. 2014. Web. 17 Sept. 2014. http://online.wsj.com/articles/at-zara-fast-fashion-meets-smarter-inventory-1410884519
  • 10. ANN’s best prospect for continued growth is to either avoid sale (since the offer is undervalued) or to go private.40 As ANN is being shopped around, senior management needs to explore a private equity acquisition with its largest investor, Golden Gate Capital. ANN has one of the best management teams under chief executive officer, Kay Krill. This management team has a proved track record of their agility to respond to the external environment and provide all stakeholders value. But what is different about ANN and its management team is they understand women—its core client. Breaking up this management team and this model in a sale at this point will be adverse for all stakeholders and the brand. 10 VI. Conclusion: While looking at Inditex’s (Zara) ability to reduce costs and risks is fascinating, one should never overlook the importance of creating a powerful brand. As The Economist eloquently reminded its readers, “[b]rands are the most valuable assets many companies possess.” There is no question that if ANN had not created the LOFT concept and started exploring new market segments and more affordable products through its outlet stores, the company would not have been able to survive the Great Recession and grow at the rate that it has. But the success of LOFT would not have been without the strong brand equity of Ann Taylor. By maintaining full control of its marketing channels and distribution, ANN preserved its brand equity. Even though ANN’s future is uncertain, their strong brand equity along with the ability to cost costs, leverage scale, will be the successful formula to accomplish its mission of “inspiring [and] connecting with women to put their best selves forward every day” for generations to come. 40 If ANN were to remain in the public sector, many analysts feel the stock is undervalued when considering ANN has no debt and self-finances its remodeling and new stores openings. But other analysts are uncertain of ANN’s future and recommend investors to sell. While this paper is more focused on marketing channels, it approaches this question from a branding perspective and the equity ANN has in the market place and recommends ANN to go private to avoid external pressures from investors to generate profits in the short term and the issue of international expansion.
  • 11. Ann Taylor Ann Taylor Factory LOFT LOFT Outlet 1.8 NET SALES (in billions) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 '00 '01 '02 '03 '04 '05 '06 '07 '08 '09 '10 '11 '12 '13 Gross Margin Rate 54.4 (in percent) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 '00 '01 '02 '03 '04 '05 '06 '07 '08 '09 '10 '11 '12 '13 11 Appendix: Figure 1: Ann Inc.’s % of Total Sales Ann Inc. FY2013 27% 10% 51% 12% 1.2 1.3 1.4 1.6 1.9 2.1 2.3 2.4 2.2 2 2.2 2.4 2.5 49.5 49.8 54.1 54.5 51.1 50.9 53.7 52.2 48.1 55.8 54.8 54.6 53.9 Source: Ann Inc., 2013 Annual Report. NOTE: Gross Margins is one of t he major metrics in supply chain management because it reflects t he firm’s direct abilit y t o control the direct cost of merchandise, which includes t ransportation. Zara’s gross margin rate was 56.5 p ercent in the second quarter for 2014. Source: https://uk.news.yahoo.com/zara-owner-inditexs-first -half-profit -slips-beats-062425247--finance.html#cxefpoT
  • 12. 12 Ann’s Channel Map: 3rd party DC art y DC D C Dc D C ANN INC.’s Dis tribution Strate gy: DC Our primary distribution center is located in Louisville, Kentucky, as discussed further in “Properties.” The majority of our merchandise is processed through our Louisville facility, which we own and operate. Additionally, we contract with third-party fulfillment vendors, utilizing a Bolingbrook, IL facility to fulfill online orders and a Toronto, Ontario facility for merchandise allocation to our Canadian stores. We also utilize a third-party distribution center bypass facility in Industry, CA. While a portion of our merchandise is processed through this bypass facility for direct distribution to our stores, it serves primarily as a trans-loading facility and a back-up distribution center in the event of a disaster. Source: Ann Inc., 2013 Annual Report. Pg.27. Economic Environment Report: The Consumer Price Index (CPI) for Woman’s Apparel increased by 3.8% and overall inflation exceeded expectations and increased by 2.1%.41 The Unites States economy is improving but there are still many risk factors with housing, higher student debt, and monetary policies that are volatile. 42 41 U.S. Department of Commerce. U.S. Census Bureau Consumer Price Index. http://www.bls.gov/cpi/cpid1405.pdf 42 Goldman Sacks, United States Economic Outlook Midyear (June 2014). http://www.goldmansachs.com/our-thinking/outlook/jan-hatzius-economic-outlook-us-mid-yr-2014.html
  • 13. Unemployment declined slightly to 6.1% and Gross Domestic Product (GDP) is expected to rise annual from 2 to 2.5% each year despite early indications of a decrease.43 The United States trade deficit fell 0.6% to $40.5 billion that provide cautious optimism for the economy growth in part for the global demand in U.S. food, beverages and automobiles.44 The U. S. Dollar has been appreciating against other currencies, potentially lowering the input costs for producers that outsource manufacturing to, or import from, other 13 countries.45 Since Ann sells commodity items, the gradual growth in the economy is likely to have a positive impact on Ann’s operating results despite soft sales in Q2 and Q3 in FY2014.46 The increase in consumer spending is likely to translate to increase in sales but the highly promotional season will likely pose a threat to Ann’s gross margins. An appreciation in U.S. currency—Ann pays its international suppliers in U.S. dollars— may buoy its operating results particularly since the world price for cotton has dramatically fallen to less than 65 cents per pound.47 Technological Report: The Internet poses both an opportunity and treat for retailers. The Internet provides firms operating in the industry with a relatively lower-cost channel to reach its customers. But it also provides an easier entry for new entrants that have increased competition, often in the form of cheaper alternatives or substitutes that can steal market share from established brick-and-mortar retailers. Retailers must seek ways to integrate its in-store experience and on-line experience to create its own competitive advantage or seek niche markets in order to capture revenue. 43 Ibid. 44 U.S. News & World Report, US trade deficit falls slightly to 5-month low in July; export growth outpaces rise in imports (September 2014) http://www.usnews.com/news/business/articles/2014/09/04/us -trade-gap-narrows-in-july 45 FOREX Market News, US Dollar Poised for Further Appreciation versus Yen (September, 2014). http://www.dailyfx.com/forex/technical/ssi/usd-jpy/2014/09/04/ssi_usd-jpy.html 46 See http://seekingalpha.com/article/2246003-ann-inc-s-ann-ceo-kay-krill-on-q1-2014-results-earnings-call-transcript ; http://seekingalpha.com/article/2445325-anns-ann-ceo-kay-krill-on-q2-2014-results-earnings-call-transcript 47 Textile World, Cotton Prices, Consumer Confidence Create Concern (September/October 2014). http://www.textileworld.com/Issues/2014/September_October/Yarn_Market/Cotton_Prices_Consumer_Confiden ce_Create_Concern
  • 14. The most disruptive technological innovation is the 3D printer. For the first time in New York Fashion Week’s history, models walked down the runway in 3D printed clothing and accessories.48 This technology will not only revolutionize trends, but will significantly reduce lead times from design to production that will significantly reduce costs in the supply chain once the initial costs of investment have been realized. Firms will have the ability to add mass customization to their existing business model and even offer co-creating in the design process. As the technology for 3D printed clothing evolves, analysts at Gartner predict the adoption is still three to five years away—sometime in 2020.49 This new technology will dramatically and quite violently disrupt operations for clothing retailers, which is also a treat and opportunity for retailers and manufactures and should be keenly watched as this technology improves and 14 adopts in the industry. The biggest treat in the technological environment is the increase and success of cyber-attacks and breaches in retailer’s networks. While there have been other cyber-attacks and security breaches in the past, the 2013 Target data breach adversely affected revenues, brand equity, and missed opportunities. Gartner is predicting that cost of global data security will increase to 7.9% or $71.1 billion dollars in 2014.50 Retailers are expected to increase spending on security that will adversely affect gross profits. 48 Time Warner News, 3D Printed Clothing Debuts on the Runway During Fashion Week (March 2014) http://www.ny1.com/content/lifestyles/tech_talk/203595/3d-printed-clothing-debuts-on-the-runway-during-fashion- week 49 3D Printing Industry, Consumer 3D Printing More than 5 Years Away from Mainstream Adoption, Says Gartner (2014). http://3dprintingindustry.com/2014/08/20/consumer -3d-printing-5-years-away-mainstream-adoption-says-gartner/ 50 Gartner, Gartner Worldwide IT Spending Forecast (2014). http://www.gartner.com/technology/research/it-spending-forecast/
  • 15. 15 Ann Taylor New Store Aesthetic: Location: Southdale Mall, Edina MN. NOTE: These stores are merchandised to rep licate a woman’s walk-in closet to create the Ann Taylor experience. Since this experience is a competitive advantage, ANN will not depart from its direct merchandising s trategy.