2. Prepared by : Mazadul Hasan
sheshir
Southeast University
Department Of Textile Engineering
I/A 251,252 Tejgaon Dhaka Banglade sh
3. Trims, Packing & Finishing
AQL (Acceptable Quality Level):
The standard definition of Acceptable Quality Level (AQL) is
"the maximum defective percent (or the maximum number of
defects per hundred units) that, for purpose of sampling
inspection, can be considered satisfactory as a process
average".
Basically, we will randomly select a sampling size quantity
(based on the AQL tables) to be inspected, and after
inspection, according to the number of defects found (critical,
major, minor defects), we will advice you to accept or to reject
your shipment.
6. Trims (Contd.)
Let's take a hypothetical inspection of a 30 000 pieces lot.
►
The Table A , under the column level II, gives us the letter M, which
corresponds in the table B to a sampling size of 315 pieces to
inspect. The usual AQL used by people is generally: 0 / 2.5 / 4 for
Critical / Major / Minor defects. For the letter M, 315 pieces to inspect,
the column 2.5 for defects gives us two numbers: 14 & 15. Thus
Among a sampling size of 315 pieces inspected, the maximum number
of major defects authorized is 14.
►
If we find 15 major defects, you should reject your shipment and / or
perform defect sorting, ask for a re-work of the production or ask for a
replacement of your production. Then you should get your shipment reinspected a second time.
7. Trims (Contd.)
Trims / accessories:
Accessories can be divided into 2 groupsa) Sewing accessories b) Finishing accessories
a) Sewing accessories:
1.
Sewing thread
2.
Interlining: It may be of 2 types-fusible and non-fusible
Also can be divided into 2 other types-woven and nonwoven
TC interlining is widely used to avoid shrinkage problem
of 100% cotton interlining.
Pellon (also called paper interlining) is also acceptable to
save cost.
8. Trims (Contd.)
Uses: Used in waist band, belt loop, fly piece, collar, cuff
and any place where strength of the material is necessary.
3. Lining: extra fabric (different from main/shell fabric) that is
used inside the garment. E.g. Jacket, blazer etc.
4. Elastic: It is made of lycra (Spandex).
Available in different width- ½’’, ¾’’,1’’, 1.5’’,2’’ etc.
It may be of different colors and it is found with different
strechability.
Uses: For kids (up to 10-11) trousers and shorts, buttonhole
elastic must be used.
Also used for the bottom waistband of a jacket, vest or pullover shirt.
Also for pants, shorts and skirts.
9. Trims (Contd.)
5. Zipper:
-It has mainly 4 parts- stopper, slider, tape and teeth.
-Zipper length is measured from stopper to stopper.
-Tape is normally made of nylon or polyester to avoid
shrinkage.
-zipper teeth are normally made of golden brass, antique
brass, antique nickel, antique copper, aluminium, plastic,
or nylon.
-It may be of several typesa) Half-finished products: chain and slider
b) Finished products: Open-end, close-end etc.
10. Trims (Contd.)
6. Labels:
It may be of 2 types- woven label and printed label
Normally 3 types of labels are used in apparel industrya) Main label : contains brand name, company name or
country name
b) Size label : contains size of the garment.
c) Care label : contains fabric composition and care
instructions and also the name of the country of origin.
7. Rib: Used in collar and cuff of T-shirt and polo shirt.
11. Trims (Contd.)
8. Shoulder Pad: Normally used in blazer and jacket.
9. Hook and loop: Commercial name is ‘Velcro’. Normally
used in stead of button to ease to open and close a
particular part.
B) Finishing accessories:
1. Button: May be made of plastic or metal.
Normally size of the button is measured by ‘ Ligne’.
1 ligne = 0.635 mm
For example, 1 8L , 24L, 32L etc. All these in fact refers to the
circumference of button.
12. Trims (Contd.)
2. Snap: kind of button with 2 parts. No button hole.
3. Shank button: kind of button without hole. Eyelet hole
(button hole) is needed to attach shank button.
4. Eyelets: Metal part with hole through which lace, draw
string etc passes.
5. Rivets: Metal part with pin and normally used in denim and
canvas pants for decorative purpose.
6. Hook and eye: Metal items to close waist of pants.
7.Draw string: long rope-type item with stopper to tighten a
part of the garment.
8.Price Ticket: Also known as UPC (Unit price code) ticket in
the garment industry. It is paper-made tag which normally
mentions price and bar code. Barcode sticker may be
attached separately on it.
13. Trims (Contd.)
9. Pocket Flasher: Normally used in pockets of trousers.
10.Stay: Used in collar points of a shirt.
11.Collar stand, neck board and back board:
Used in shirt.
12.Hang Tag: Separate tag hung in a garment.