Industrial attachment of naz bangladesh ltd

SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY
Department of Textile Engineering
INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT
N. A. Z Bangladesh Ltd

Acknowledgement
A number of people have made significant contributions in preparing this report.
Their insights, advice and suggestions helped me a lot. I would like to pay special
thanks to Prof. Syed Fakhrul Hassan, C-Text. ATI, the Head of the department
of Textile Engineering, Southeast University, for continuously guiding us about the
development and preparation of the report. He has enriched us with necessary ideas
and concepts for incessant improvement of the report.I would also like to express
our heartfelt thanks to Md. Fazley Elahi, Assistant Professor, Department of Textile
Engineering, Southeast University for all necessary information for preparing this report.
I would like to express our sincere gratitude to Mr. Monju, General Manager, N.
A. Z Bangladesh Ltd, who has allowed us to work in his organization within a
congenial atmosphere during the industrial training period.
I recognize Mr. Nipu, Manager (Dyeing) and Md. Shifon AGM (knitting) N. A. Z
Bangladesh Ltd. for providing sincere help in all administrative and technical matters
while working in the organization.
I express my heartiest thanks to Deputy Manager & Assistant Manager, Knitting,
Dyeing & Fishing, Garment and Accessories for enriching our knowledge on various
fabric manufacturing and finishing processes with their excellent professional
knowledge.
My sincere appreciation goes to the entire N. A. Z Bangladesh Ltd. team for
extending their hands of cooperation through out the training period.

1
Name:N. A. Z Bangladesh Ltd.

2
1 CHAPTER : PROJECT DESCRIPTION

1
1.1. Introduction:
Every one knows that learning is the best part of thinking possibility. In human life
education is the primary source of learning process. We need to learn for particular points
of theoretical parts it should be some lack of looking this function such a fabric making on
a circular machine and dyeing and finishing process in practical. It should be looking and
knows about the functions, running of this machine, Uses material, and manufacturing
materials. It must be need for good practical knowledge and proper handling of the
machine.
Internship is making this opportunity. Because we have known theoretical knowledge but
we have lack of industrial knowledge. It has to fill up for industrial attachment. N.A.Z
Bangladesh Ltd. has getting this opportunity for me.
NAZ Bangladesh Ltd is a knit composite industry. It is a 100% export oriented industry in
Bangladesh. The factory is making about knitting, knit dyeing & finishing and knit
garments. Due to the change in environment, the textile sector is facing a great challenge.
But NAZ BD Ltd fully prepared to face this situation. The goal of NAZ BD Ltd is to
become the preferred partner for sourcing high quality fabrics and clothing from
Bangladesh. N.A.Z has highly develop advanced technology and an emphasis on
developing local human resources, the Textile Division has the potential to make an
important contribution to the nation's growing ready made garments export sector.
The rational behind the existing structure and future expansion of the Textile & fiber
Division is to capture value-added at each stage of the textile manufacturing process.
Despite Bangladesh's lack of indigenous cotton production capability, N.A.Z. has
leveraged Bangladesh's labor cost advantage and export competitiveness to the maximum.
This factory is fully complained and very much concern about the labor law and
compliance. This factory also concerned about environmental issue as they have well
established Effluent Treatment Plant (ETP). In NAZ Bangladesh Ltd., I have completed 2
months (8 weeks) long industrial training in knitting, dyeing, finishing and garments.
During the training period we faced a lot of technical problem, which we solve by
consulting with the related persons. Whatever knowledge we have gain during my training
period, it will help us to build up our career as a Textile Technologist.

Project Description
2
1.2. Layout of N.A.Z Bangladesh Ltd.
ANSER CAMP
Gate
Dormitory
POND
Fabric store
ACCESSORIES
UNITE
ETP
POND
CHEMIffCfAL
STORE
UNDERCONSTRUC
TION
3 STD OFFICE AND
GARMENTS
Printing
KNITTING
SECTION Utility Building
Chemical
store
WORKSHO
P
GATE
N E
SW

Project Profile
Industrial Training 3 | P a g e
1.3.Project Profile
Type : 100% Export Oriented Composite Knit Industry.
Legal Form of Company : Private Limited Company.
Year of Incorporation : 1987
Commencement of Operations : 1987
Project cost : 250 crore
Name of the Bank : Exim Bank
Company name N. A. Z. BANGLADESH LIMITED.
Head Office House #21 , Road # 13, Baridhara, Gulshan, Dhaka-1212
Tel No 880-2-9861831, 9860445, 8854101 Extn: 128 / 156
Fax 880-2-9889078
E-mail nasir@nazbd.com, shamim@nazbd.com; salauddin@nazbd.com;
URL www.nazbd.com
Factory 5, Bishuya Kuribari Bari, Mirzapur, Rajendrapur, Gazipur-1700
Tel No 880-2-9289054-6
Fax No 880-2-9289053
Location
45~50 minutes drive from HSJI Airport to towards North
(Mymansingh)
Contacted persons
Mr. Nasir Uddin Ahmed (Managing Director)
Contact Phone :+88 01711 814 912
Mr. Salauddin Jakir (Merchandising Manger)
Contact Phone: +8801714302133
Mr. Shamim Khan ( Sr. Merchandiser – Marketing &
Merchandising )
Contact Phone: +88 01711 465 336

Project Profile
Main Production : T-Shirt, Polo Shirt, Tank tock, Jacket, Trousers,
Bottoms, etc. and all kinds of Knit fabric & garments.
Factory space : 9, 07,200 sq.ft.
Total Employees : 3350 persons
No. Of employees : 350 persons
No. Of workers : 3000 persons
Working Period : 3 (Three) Shift Per Day
Production Capacity
Knitting : 20 Tons/Day
Dyeing & Finishing : 16 Tons/Day
Garments : 55,000 Pcs/Day
PC Printing : 25,000 Pcs/ Day
Embroidery : 50,000,000 Stitches/Day
Garments Wash : 25000 Pcs/Day
1.4.Yearly Turn Over
Serial No Year Turn Over (Per Year)
01 1996 US $ 7.02 Million
02 1997 US $ 8.20 Million
03 1998 US $ 9.65 Million
04 1999 US $ 10.56 Million
05 2000 US $ 12.76 Million
06 2001 US $ 15.86 Million
07 2002 US $ 17.65 Million
08 2003 US $ 20.00 Million
9 2004 US $ 22.00 Million
10 2005 US $ 25.00 Million
11 2006 US $ 25.00 Million
12 2007 US $ 26.00 Million
13 2008 US $ 28.00 Million

Project Profile
1.5.Different Dipertment:
Different sections of N.A.Z. Bangladesh Ltd.
A. Knit section
 Knitting
 Inspection
B. Dyeing section
 Batch section
 Dye house
 Dyeing lab
 Quality control
 Finishing
C. Garments section
 Merchandising
 Sample
 Cutting section
 Sewing section
 Finishing section
D. Sewing Thread Dyeing
E. Printing Unit
F. Embroidery Unit
G. Accessories Unit
H. Maintenance section
 Electrical
 Mechanical
I. Utility:
 Electricity
 Gas
 Water
 Boiler
 ETP
J. Store section
K. Administration section
L. Security section
M. Marketing section
N. Production planning &control
O. Human Resource & Development
section
Different
sections

Project Profile
Supporting Department
Personnel Administration
Procurement
Marketing
HRD
Finance & Accounting
MIS (Management Information System)
Work Study
Complience & Safety
Companies of N.A.Z. Group
 N.A.Z. Bangladesh Ltd.
 N.A.Z. Bangladesh Ltd. (Accessories Unit)
 CA Knitwear Ltd.
 Needle Touch Garments Ltd.
Certifications:
ISO
Oeko Tex-100
Main Buyers of N.A.Z. Bangladesh LTD:
SL BUYER COUNTRY
01 TARGET USA
02 TESCO UK
03 H&M SWEDEN
04 WAL MART USA, CANADA, MEXICO
05 PUNTORAMA SPAIN
06 TRR ITALY

Project Profile
1.6.History of the project development
After successful operation in N.A.Z. Group, the owner had decided to start a fully
information & technology based along with the social accountability and quality controlled
modern readymade composite knit garments industry in large scale. It is situated at 5,
Bishuya Kuribari, Mirzapur, Gazipur-1700, Bangladesh. In the year 1987 to manufacture
knitwear garments for the international market. Right from inception the policy of the
company has been to provide total customer satisfaction by offering quality knitwear in time.
To meet the commitments of quality and prompt delivery, N.A.Z. Group Decided to
integrate the manufacturing process in a planned manner. Over the years the entire process
has been integrated by importing sophisticated machinery from world-renowned
manufacturers.
1.7.Vision & mission of the project:
The mission and vision of N.A.Z. Group is to manufacture and deliver high quality
readymade garments (RMG) to its customers. The core objective is to attain and enhance
customer satisfaction by providing on time delivery of desired quality readymade garments
and also to increase efficiency of workforce.
To attain these objectives, the management of N.A.Z. Group has decided to adopt the
following-
 To increase awareness regarding customers requirements throughout the
organization.
 By providing training to develop efficiency of the employee.
 To collect customer’s feedback regularly to know about their conception about
their company and to take timely appropriate action.
 To reduce the percentage of wastage / rejection minimum by 2% per annum’s
implement and monitor ISO 9001:2000 quality management system within the
organization.

Man Power Management
2 CHAPTER : MAN POWER MANAGEMENT

2.1.Manpower Organ gram
Manpower organ gram of N. A. Z Bangladesh is as follows -
Finishing & Q.C Manager
Shift In-charge
Q.C Technician
Knitting Manager
Managing Director
Executive Director
GM (Marketing) GM (Production)
Asist. Manager
Sr. Production Officer
Shift In-charge
Production Officer
Assist. Production Officer
Sr. Operator
Operator
Dyeing Manager
Shift In-charge
Production Officer
Asist. Manager
Deputy Manager
Sr. Production Officer
Assist. Production Officer
Sr. Operator
Operator

2.2.Management system
 Buyer sample is send to G.M or merchandising manager.
 Matching is done under lab manager.
 Sample is prepared by asst. dyeing manager.
 Sample is send to the buyer for approval.
 Approved sample is returned and taken as STD. sample for bulk production.
 Dyeing manager gives responsibilities to asst. dyeing manager.
 Then shift in-charge with the supervisors start bulk production.
 On line and off line quality check is done by lab in-charge and asst. dyeing manager.
 After dyeing asst. manager (finishing) controls the finishing process with the
supervision of shift in-charge.
 Finally G.M checks the result with dyeing manager and decision is taken for delivery.
Shifting:
In N. A. Z Bangladesh Ltd. The whole day production time is divided into 3 shift.
Per shift 8 hours.
Shift Duration
Shift A 6:00 am- 2:00 pm
Shift B 2:00pm – 10:00 pm
Shift C 10:00 pm- 6:00 am
2.3.Duties & Responsibilities of Different Post
General Manager
 To deal with the buyer and merchandiser.
 To set up price for the product.
 To plan apply and control all administrative functions.
 To follow up the instruction of managing director and chairman.
Manager
 To supervise the personal working under him.
 To plan the sequence of production.
 To arrange necessary raw materials for the production problems.
 To find out the possible reasons which are responsible for less production?
 To follow up the instruction of Managing Director and Executive Director as well.

Deputy General Manager (DGM) production
 Overall supervision of dyeing and finishing section.
 Check the sensitive parameters of different machines for smooth dyeing.
 Check the different log books in different areas and report to management.
 Check the plan to control the best output
 To trained and motive the subordinates how to improve the quality production.
 Control the supervisor, operator, asst. operator and helper of dyeing machine.
 Any other work as and when required.
Senior Production Officer
 Overall supervision of dyeing and finishing section.
 Batch preparation and pH check.
 Dyes and chemicals requisition issue and check
 Write loading/unloading time from machine.
 Program making, sample checking color measurement.
 Control the supervisor, operator, asst. operator and helper of dyeing machine.
 Any other work as and when required.
Production officer
 To collect the necessary information and infrastructure from the previous shift for the
smooth running of the section.
 To match production sample with target shade.
 To match production sample lot sample matching next production.
 To observed dyed fabric during finishing running and also after finishing process.
 To identify disputed fabrics and report to PM/GM for necessary action.
 To discuss with PM about overall production if necessary.
 T sign the store requisition and delivery challenge in the absence of PM.
 To execute the overall floor work.
 To maintain loading/unloading paper.
Shift In charge
 To follow the workers movement.
 Should discuss with the production Officer about what is happening.
 To maintain the production sequence.
 To check the sample at certain time interval.

Raw Materials
3 CHAPTER: RAW MATERIALS

Raw Materials
3.1.Raw Materials
Table 3. 1: Source of yarn for knitting
Lycra: CREORA
Made in Korea
Type # H-100 (20D, 40D)
Square Spinning mill Basher spinning mill
Kamal spinning mill Prime Spinning mill
Aman spinning mill RK Spinning mill
Fariha spinning mill JK Spinning mill
Shohagpur spinning mill AKIJ Spinning mill
Amber cotton mill Pahartoli Spinning mill
Rising spinning mill Youth Spinning mill
Shirin spinning mill Kader Spinning mill
NZ spinning mill Silver Spinning mill
Karim spinning mill Shemem Spinning mill

Knitting Section
14 | P a g e
3.2.Types of yarn used and their count:
Table 3. 2: Types of yarns used in N.A.Z. Bangladesh Ltd
Type of yarn Count
Cotton 20S
,24S
, 26S
, 28S
, 30S
, 32S
, 34S
, 36S
,40S
, 45S
Polyester 70D,100D,150D
Spandex yarn 20D,40D,70D
Grey Mélange (C-90% V-10%) 24S
, 26S
Ecru Mélange (C-85% V-15%) 24S
, 26S
, 28S
Cotton Mélange (100%) 24S
, 26S
, 28S
PC (65%Polyester & 35% cotton) 24S
, 26S
, 28S
, 30S
CVC(60% Polyester & 40% Cotton) 24S
, 26S
, 28S
, 30S
3.3.Cost of Raw Materials:
Table 3.3: Cost of yarn
Yarn Count Combed Yarn Carded Yarn
40/1 3.65 $/Kg 2.65-2.7$/Kg
36/1 3.00 $/Kg 2.5-2.6 $/Kg
32/1 2.90 $/Kg 2.30 $/Kg
30/1 2.70 $/Kg 2.30 $/Kg
28/1 2.65 $/kg 2.25 $/Kg
26/1 2.60 $/Kg 2.25 $/Kg
24/1 2.55 $/Kg 2.20 $/Kg
20/1 2.50 $/Kg 2.15-2.2$/Kg

Knitting Section
15 | P a g e
Lycra Yarn:
20 den - 12.70 $/Kg
40 den - 8.40 $/Kg
70 den - 7.50 $/Kg
Cost of knitting
Table 3.4: Cost of knitting for different fabrices
Fabrics Taka/kg
Rib (1x1) 12-13
Rib (2x2) 14-15
Interlock 15-16
Single Jersey 7-8
Lacost 8-9
Pique 8-9
Terry fleece 14-15
Remarks: As the yarn consumption totally depends on production and production depends
on order of buyer, so recommendation of yarn type, source, price, requirements may vary.

Knitting Section
16 | P a g e
4 CHAPTER : KNITTING UNIT

Knitting Section
17 | P a g e
4.1.Organ gram of Knitting Department
Shift
A-4
Shift
B-4
Shift
C-4
Knitting Master
Asst.Master
Sr.Fitter
Servicing -5
Production
Floor In charge
Asst.Manager
Sr.Production Officer
Shift A
Production Officer
Shift B
Production Officer Production Officer
Shift C
Shift In Charge
APO
Operator-40
Shift In Charge
APO
Operator-40
Shift In Charge
APO
Operator-40
Asst. Manager
R& D sample
Supervisor
Asst.Operator-2
Y/D
In charge
Supervisor
QC- 3 QC- 3
Sub Contract
Out Scorching
Manager
Sub Contract
Inside
Manager
Asst.Manager
GM
AGM
Manager

Knitting Section
18 | P a g e
4.2. Layout of Knitting Department
Fabric Store
Office Room AGM
Room
Maintenance
Room
Gate

Knitting Section
19 | P a g e
4.3.Knitting:
Knitting is the method of making fabric by transforming continuous strands of yarn into a
series of interlooping loops, each row of such loops forms the one immediately preceding it.
Types of weft knitting m/c:
The N.A.Z Bangladesh Ltd. is a self- sufficient modern company. Its knitting section is
divided into two sections-
1. Flat Knitting Section
2. Circular Knitting Section
4.4.Circular knitting section:
Main parts of circular knitting m/c:
1. Yarn feed guide
2. Latch needle
3. Holding down sinker
4. Needle cylinder
5. Needle retaining spring
6. Needle operating cams
7. Cylinder driving wheel
8. Cylinder driving gear
9. Cylinder driving pinion attached to the main shaft
10. Sinker cam top
11. Cam box
12. Cam plate
13. Creel: Creel is used to place the cone.
14. Feeder: Feeder is used to feed the yarn.
15. Tensioning device: Tensioning device is used to give proper tension to the yarn.
16. VDQ pulley: VDQ pulley is used to control the GSM by controlling the stitch length.
17. Guide: Guide is used to guide the yarn.
18. Sensor: Sensor is used to seen & the m/c stops when any problem occurs.
Fire Extinguisher
Hose Pipe
Fabric Rack
Floor Marking
Fabric inspection
m/c
V-Bed
knitting m/c
Circular
knitting m/c

Knitting Section
20 | P a g e
19. Spreader: Spreader is used to spread the knitted fabric before take up roller.
20. Take up roller: Take up roller is used to take up the fabric
4.5.Basic knitting element:
1. Needle.
2. Sinker.
3. Cam.
Needle:
Function of needles: Needle is used to clear the old loop from the hook & to receive the new
loop above it on the needle steam.
Types of needle:
In general there are three types of needles.
a. Bearded needle.
b. Latch needle.
c. Compound needle.
Figure 4.1: Latch Needle
CAM:
Cams are the devices which convert the rotary m/c drive into a suitable reciprocating action
for the needles or other elements.
Types of cam: Two type of cam
1. Engineering cam Knit cam
2. Knitting cam Miss cam
Tuck cam
Latch
Steam
Hook
Rivet
Butt

Knitting Section
21 | P a g e
Function of CAM
The functions of cam are as follows:
 Produce motion to needles.
 Loop formation.
 Holding down.
 Knocking over
Sinker:
This is secondary primary knitting element. It is a thin metal plate with an individual and
collective action approximate at right angles from the hook side between adjoining needles.
Function of sinker:
It may one or more of the following functions dependent upon the machines knitting action
and consequent sinker shape and movement.
Others Equipments Used In Knitting Section:
 GSM cutter
 Electronic balance
 Inspection m/c
4.6.Terms and definition of knitting:
Course – A horizontal row of loops formed by the needles during one knitting cycle.
Wales – A vertical column of loops formed by a single needle.
Loop - It is a basic unit consisting of a loop of yarn meshed at its base with previously basic
unit. Knitted loops are arranged in rows and columns roughly equivalent to the warp and weft
of woven structures termed “Wales” and “courses” respectively
Stitch - The smallest dimensionally stable unit of all knitted fabric is stitch. It consists of a
yarn loop which is held together by being intermeshed with another stitch or other loop.
Stitch length - Stitch length is a length of yarn which includes the needles of the needle loop
& half of the sinker loop on either side of it. Generally the larger stitch length, the more
extensible & lighter the fabric & the poorer the cover, capacity & bursting strength.
Steps should be taken to change stitch length.
- Check the S.L of the m/c prevailing.
- Change the diameter of V. DLQ pulley.
- Set of the position of carriage.
- Set the speed of take- up roller

Knitting Section
22 | P a g e
- Maintain the optimum yarn tension.
Yarn count:
Yarn count is the numerical system of expressing length per unit weight or weight per unit
length. Count express fineness or coarseness of yarn.
Yarn count can be calculated in two systems:
Direct system:
In direct system, yarn count is directly related to the yarn fineness. So, lower the count finner
the yarn and higher the count and coarser the yarn. This system is used for Polyester and Ly-
cra and other synthetic fibers.
W l
Direct Count
w L



Where, W=weight of the sample
L=length of the sample
w=unit weight of the system
l=unit length of the system
Table 4-1: Yarn Count in Direct system
System Unit weight Unit length Uses
Tex Grams 1,000m Polyester
Denier Grams 9,000m Lycra
D-Tex Grams 10,000m Lycra
Pounds/Spyndle Pounds 14400yds Jute

Knitting Section
23 | P a g e
Indirect system:
In indirect system, yarn count is inversely related to the yarn fineness. So, higher the count
finner the yarn and lower the count and coarser the yarn. This system is used for cotton,
worsted & woolen.
w L
Indirect Count
W l



Where, W=weight of the sample
L=length of the sample
w=unit weight of the system
l=unit length of the system
Table 4-2: Yarn Count in Indirect system
System Unit weight Unit length Uses
English (Ne) 1 lb 840 yds Cotton yarn
Metric (Nm) 1 kg 1 km Cotton yarn
Worsted 1 lb 560 yds Worsted yarn
Woolen 1 lb 256 yds Woolen yarn
Stitch Density - Courses per inch (CPI) × Wales per inch (WPI)
M/C Gauge - A number of needles per unit length in the knitting m/c, measured as the
number of needles in one inch. This measure determines the number of Wales per unit length
in the knitted fabric.
4.7.Flat Knitting Section
Flat knitting section consists of Flat knitting machines. Its main production is Collar & Cuff.
Different types of designed collar & Cuff is produced here matching with the body of the
garments.
Flat knitting machine is used to make collar and cuff with the required shape. Collar and cuff
is usually with heavier gsm and thus multiple ply of yarn is used per feeder. No of yarn ply
used will also depend on the yarn count. Lycra is also used when required.

Knitting Section
24 | P a g e
Table 4-3: No. of yarn ply according to yarn count for collar & cuff
Yarn count (Ne) No. of yarn ply
20 3
22 3
24 4
26 4
30 4-5
34 6
Size of collar according to size of garments:
 Boy’s collar :Length 29 to 36 cm x width 8cm
 Boy’s cuff : Length 31 cm x width 3cm
 Man’s:
Table 4-4: Collar & Cuff measurements
Size Collar measurement (cm) Cuff measurement (cm)
S 40 x 9 40 x 3.5
M 42 x 9 40 x 3.5
L 44 x 9 40 x 3.5
XL 46 x 9 40 x 3.5
XXL 48 x 9 44 x 3.5
XXXL 50 x 9 44 x 3.5
Collar and cuff which is made with V-bed knitting machine has 3 edge and need not to cut.
Those fabrics have following 4 parts:
1. Tube
2. Tube end
3. Body
4. Separation

Knitting Section
25 | P a g e
Sequence of operations in knitting section:
Sample fabric
Design analysis
Sample fabric production
Setting the machine for the specific
design
If Yes
If NoBuyer approval
Bulk Production
QC
Send to Batching section

Knitting Section
26 | P a g e
Table 4-5:Main Product - Fabrics :-
Single Jersey
- Single Jersey:
- Single Jersey (Lycra)
- Single Jersey (Auto Stripe)
- Single Jersey (Singed)
- Single Jersey (Pigment Dye)
- Single Jersey (Sueded / Ultra Soft)
Pique
- Pique
- Pique (Auto Stripe)
- Pique (Sueded / Ultra Soft)
- Pique (Mercerized)
- Pique (Ultra soft)
Interlock
- Interlock
- Interlock (Ultra soft)
- Interlock (Pigment Dye)
- Interlock D/N (Cotton)
- Interlock D/N (Polyester)
Rib
- Rib: Any Drop Needle
- Rib (Pigment Dye)
- Rib (Ultra soft)
- Rib Elastane
- Flat Back Rib
- Variegated Rib
Jacquard
- Semi Jacquard
Mesh - Mesh
Fleece
- Fleece
- Fleece (Inside Brush)
- Fleece (Both Side Brush)
- Terry Fleece
- Polar Fleece
- Terry Fleece (Pigment Dye)
Lacoste
- Lacoste
- Lacoste (Auto Stripe)
- Lacoste (Pigment Dye)
Waffle - Waffle
Valor - Valor

Knitting Section
27 | P a g e
Table 4.6: Analysis of structure, looping diagram, cam arrangement and needle arrangement of knit fabric
Single Jersey Single jersey fabric vertical Wales’s line is shown on the face side of the fabric. On the back side sinker loops are produced. This
fabric is produced by the needles of only one set needle. This fabric has curling effect on the edge after cut in relax state towards
the back at the sides and towards the front at the top and bottom.
End use: basic T-shirt, men’s vest, fine cardigans, ladies hosiery, full-fashioned knitwear etc.
Face Side Back Side
Looping diagram Cam Arrangement
K K K K
Needle
Arrangement
1x1 Rib Rib fabric shows the face loop on the both sides of the fabric. Rib requires two sets of needles operating in-between each other so
that walse of face stitches and wales of back stitches are knitted on each side of the fabric. This fabric has good elasticity and has no
curling effect.
End use: waist bands, cuffs and collars and typical applications, skirt belt, various types of fancy borders, sweaters etc.
Face Side Back Side
K M K M
M K M K
K M K M
M K M K
Needle
Arrangement
D
C

Knitting Section
28 | P a g e
Interlock Interlock has same appearance on both sides, like face of plane, but its smooth surface cannot be stretched. Interlock process
two sets of needles (short and long) in both cylinder and dial and at least two feeders. This fabric cannot be un roved from
either sides and has no curling effect.
End use: under wear, trouser, sportswear, t- shirts, polo shirts etc.
Face Side Back Side
M K
K M
M K
K M
Needle
Arrangement
Single Lacost Single lacost is a knit-tuck single jersey structure. Face and back side of the fabric is different & produced with
cylinder needle only. The prominence of the design appears on the back of the structure. The repeat of this structure
completes on four courses.
Face Side Back Side
K T K K
K K K T
Needle
Arrangement
D
C

Knitting Section
29 | P a g e
Double Lacost Double lacost is a knit-tuck single jersey structure. Face and back side of the fabric is different & produced with cylinder
needle only. The prominence of the design near to the single lacost design. The repeat of this structure completes on six
courses. Benzene structure is shown on back side of the fabric.
Face Side Back Side
K K K K T T
K T T K K K
Needle
Arrangement
Single Pique Single pique is a knit-tuck single jersey structure and produced with cylinder needle only. The prominence of the design
appears on the back side of the fabric. Face side of this fabric is like face of s/j and benzene ring is produced on the back
side of the fabric. The repeat of this structure completes on two courses.
Face side Back side
K T
T K
Needle
Arrangement

Knitting Section
30 | P a g e
Double pique Double pique is a knit-tuck single jersey structure and produced with cylinder needle only. The prominence of the design
appears on the back side of the fabric. Face side of this fabric is like face of s/j and benzene ring is produced on the back side
of the fabric. The repeat of this structure completes on four courses.
Face side Back side
K K T T
T T K K
Needle
Arrangement
Fleece Fleece fabric is produced with the combination of knit, tuck and miss loops and this is s/j structure. Face side of the
fabric is like face of s/j and miss loop will appear on the back side. If back side is brushed then called fleece fabric.
Face side Face side
K T K M
K M K M
K M K T
Needle
Arrangement

Knitting Section
Industrial Attachment 31 | P a g e
4.8.Specifications of knitting machines used in N. A. Z Bangladesh Ltd.
Table 4.7. 1Single Jersey
SL/
NO.
M/C
TYPE
MC/
DIA
M/C
GAUGE
FEED
ER
QTY BRAND ORIGIN FABRIC’S
TYPE
PRO.
CAP/KGS
REMARKS
1 S/J 19 24 57 1 ORIZIO ITALY S/J, Pique 200
8 S/J 25 24 75 1 ORIZIO ITALY S/J, Pique 300 Lycra
Attachment
Attachment
Attachment
11 S/J 26 24 114 1 MAYER & CIE GERMANY S/J, Pique 500 Lycra

Knitting Section
Attachment
Attachment
Attachment
Total 21 6025
Table 4-7. 2 Fleece + 2 Thread Fleece + 3 Thread Fleece
SL/
NO.
M/C
TYPE
MC/
DIA
M/C
GAUGE
FEEDER QTY BRAND ORIGIN FABRIC’S
TYPE
PROD
CAP/KGS
REMARKS
1 Fleece 28 20,24 90 1 MAYER & CIE GERMAN
Y
S/J ,Fleece 400 Lycra
Attachment
Y
Attachment
Y
Attachment
Y
Attachment
5 Fleece 32 20,24,28 96 1 Fukahama TAIWAN S/J ,Fleece 350 Lycra

Knitting Section
Attachment
6 Fleece 34 20,24,28 102 1 Fukahama TAIWAN S/J ,Fleece 400 Lycra
Attachment
Total 6 2500
Table 4-7. 3 Rib + Interlock + Flat Back Rib + Drop Needle
SL/
No.
M/C TYPE MC/
DIA
M/C
GAUGE
Fee
der
QT
Y
BRAND ORIGIN FABRIC’S
TYPE
Prod
cap/kg
REMARKS
1 Rib+Interlock 30 14,18 62 1 MAYER & CIE GERMANY Rib+I/L+F/Rib 300 Lycra Attachment
4 Rib +Interlock 36 14,20 74 1 MAYER & CIE GERMANY Rib+I/L+F/Rib 400 Lycra Attachment
5 Rib +Interlock 38 14,21 78 1 MAYER & CIE GERMANY Rib+I/L+F/Rib 500 Lycra Attachment
6 Rib +Interlock 36 16,22 72 1 Fukahama TAIWAN Rib+I/L+F/Rib 350 Lycra Attachment
7 Rib +Interlock 38 16,23 76 1 Fukahama TAIWAN Rib+I/L+F/Rib 400 Lycra Attachment
8 Rib +Interlock 40 18,22 84 3 Juinn Long TAIWAN Rib+I/L+F/Rib 400 Lycra Attachment

Knitting Section
9 Rib 40 16 80 1 Juinn Long TAIWAN Rib +F/Rib 800 F/Look lycra Attach
10 Rib 42 18 84 4 Juinn Long TAIWAN Rib +F/Rib 400 F/Look lycra Attach
11 Interlock 38 24 114 1 Juinn Long TAIWAN INTERLOCK 400 Lycra Attachment
14 RIB 34 15 24 1 Juinn Long TAIWAN RIB 200 Lycra Attachment
Total 21 5700
Table 4.7.1 Terry = S/J + Terry / Terry Fleece + Velor + Polar Fleece etc.
M/C
TYPE
MC/
DIA
M/C
GAUGE
FEEDER QTY BRAND ORIGIN FABRIC’
S TYPE
PROD
CAP/KGS
REMARKS
1 Terry 42 20 68 2 MAYER & CIE Germany Terry 1000 Lycra Attachment
Total 2 1000

Knitting Section
Table 4.7. 4 Auto Stripe + Feeder Stripe (S/J + Pique + Lacoste + Other Design)
SL/
NO.
M/C TYPE MC/
DIA
M/C
GAUGE
FEE
DER
QT
Y
BRAND ORIGIN FABRIC
TYPE
PROD
CAP/KGS
REMARKS
1
Auto Stripe 34 24 48 4 Fukahama JAPAN Auto Stripe 300 Lycra Attachment
2 Auto Stripe 36 24 48 4 Fukahama JAPAN Auto Stripe 350 Lycra Attachment
3 Auto Stripe 38 24 48 2 Fukahama JAPAN Auto Stripe 400 Lycra Attachment
Total 8 1050
Table 4.7. 5: V-bed knitting m/c
SL/
NO.
M/C TYPE MC/
DIA
M/C
GAUGE
FEEDER QT
Y
BRAND ORIGIN FABRIC
TYPE
PROD
CAP/KGS
REMARKS
1 Flat Knit 0 14 8 6 Snima Seiki Japan Collar/Cuff 1400 Lycra Attachment
2 Flat Knit 0 14 12 1 Stoll Germany Collar/Cuff 700 Lycra Attachment
Total 7 2100

Knitting Section
4.9.Quality Standard:
N. A. Z Bangladesh Ltd. follows the four point grading system to inspect the body
& rib fabric, by this four point system, the faults arc found by the inspection and points are
given against the faults. Following table shows the four point grading system followed by
inspection at N. A. Z Bangladesh Ltd.
Table 4.8: four point system for knit fabric
Four Point Grading System
Size Of Defects Penalty
3 inches or less 1 point
Over 3 inch but not over 6 inch 2 point
Over 6 inch but not over 9 inch 3 point
Over 9 inch 4 point
Any Hole 4 Point
Typical knitting calculations:
The calculations which are frequently used in the knitting section are discussed below:
Gauge (G): Number of needles per inch.
Total needles: Machine diameter× Gauge×3.416
Feeders of Single Jersey: Machine diameter×3
Feeders of Double Jersey: Machine diameter×2
Relation between yarn count and fabric Gsm
For single jersey fabric:
4320
Yarn Count
Fabric Gsm

For Double jersey fabric:

Knitting Section
6000
Yarn Count
Fabric Gsm

Relation between fabrics finished Gsm, stitch length, fabric gsm, yarn count:
For Single Jersey fabric:
590 Ks
Stitch Length
Yarn Count Finished Gsm



Where,
For s/j, Ks=19.6
For 1x1 rib, Ks=26
For Interlock, Ks=38
Fabric Thickness:
Fabric thickness = 4D
Here, D= yarn dia (in relaxed state)
Tightness Factor:
Tex
Tightness Factor
Stitch Length
 , here stitch length is in mm
Production per shift:
. 60 8
Pr
1000 840 ( ) 36 2.2028
D G S L F RPM efficiency
oduction per shift Kg
yarncount Ne
        

   
Where,
 D= Machine dia
 G= Machine gauge
 S.L.=Stitch length
 F= No. of feeder
4.10. Remarks:
knitting section is equipped with a large number of machines. But some modern knitting
machine should purchased including engineering stripe machine with Lycra attachment
facility.

Lab Section
5 CHAPTER : BATCH SECTION

Lab Section
5.1. Batching:
Primarily batching is done by batching section which is supervised by dyeing manager.
The main function of batching section is to prepare the batch for dyeing according to
machine capacity, order and emergency. This section receive the grey fabric from knitting
section and make batch according to order for particular shade. Then this batch delivers to
dyeing section for dyeing.
Function or purpose of Batch section:
 To receive the grey fabric roll form knitting or other source.
 Turn the gray fabric if require.
 Prepare the batch for dyeing according to the following criteria:
 Order sheet (Received from buyer)
 Dyeing shade ( light or dark, color or white)
 Machine capacity.
 Type of fabric ( 100% Cotton, CVC, Stripe fabric)
 Emergency order.
 Fabric construction (Single jersey, Rib, Lycra Rib, Lacost, PK etc.)
 To send the grey fabric to the dyeing floor with batch card.
 To keep record.
Proper Batching Criteria:
 To use maximum capacity of existing dyeing machine.
 To minimize preparation time & machine stoppage time.
 To use a particular machine for dyeing same shade.
5.2.Calculations related to batch section:
( )
100
Dia cm GSM
Grams per linear meter


1000kg per Chamber
Meters Per Chember
Grms per linear meter


Now, when a gram per linear meter is low then meters per chamber will be more. Thus,
fabric loading should be reduced to avoid jamming in the winch. In this case 80-85% fabric

Lab Section
loading is given. But when gram per linear meter is more then rope length will reduce and
in this case up to 90% fabric loading can be given.
Preparing the fabric ropes
The fabric ropes for each chamber should be prepared in batching section. The fabric rolls
are correctly sewn together. This will minimize the time required to load the machine, and
avoid the risk of rope entanglement.
Fabric loading in the m/c will vary with the type of fabric and the width of the fabric and
the amount is not less than 50% of the machine nominal load.
5.3.Calculating the chamber loading
In the following table are listed general recommendations covering rope cycle times and
speeds for a wide range of fabrics:
Fabric Rope cycle times in minutes Rope circulation speed m/min
Knit fabric
PES unfixed 1 250
PES heat set 1-1.5 200
PC 1-2 250
Co - reactive 2-3 225-275
For calculation the following diagram shows the weight per running metre of a fabric in
grams, and the corresponding rope weight and length. e.g. a fabric of 200 gm/running
metrewith rope length of 800 metres will have a dry weight of 160 kg.

Lab Section
Kg
0
200 400 800600 1000
0
1200
20
40
60
80
100
120
200
140
160
180
220
260
280
300
320
340
360
240
100g125g150g175g200g225g
500g
400g
350g
300g
275g
250g
550g
Grms/running meter
Rope length(m)

Lab Section
Figure 5-1: Rope length (m) and fabric wt loading on m/c depending on the grams per
running meter of fabric
Turn over time
The following diagram shows the relationship between winch speed and rope length
necessary to reach a required turn over time.
Figure 5-2: Rope length depending on winch speed
It is also possible to reverse the procedure and calculate the maximum rope length with a
fabric of a particular weight, having determined the winch speed and circulation time.
For example: 100% Cotton, Reactive dyeing:
Circulation time = 3 minutes
Winch speed = 250 m/min
Rope length = 3 mins x 250 m
0
200 400 600 800 1000 1200
100
200
300
400
500
m/min
600
Winchspeedm/min
Rope length(m)
3
1
2
4
56

Lab Section
= 750 meters
If the rope is shorter, so that the same rope circulation time and nozzle contacts are
maintained during the cycle, the winch speed should be reduced.
Rope length 690 m
Circulation time 3 mins = 230 m/min (winch speed)
Calculation of the the rope length
If Rope weight is 105 kg
(weightper running metre) 200 kg/rm = 525 m (rope length)
Calculation of the winch speed
If Rope length is 540 m
Cycle time 3 mins
Then Winch speed = 180 m/min
Number of nozzle passages
(Process time) 360 mins
(Cycle time) 3 mins = 120 (nozzle passages)
5.4.Batch management
Primarily batching is done by dyeing manager taking the above criteria under
consideration. Batch section in charge receives this primary batch plan from dyeing
manager. Some time planning is adjusted according to m/c condition or emergency
Machines in Batch section:
Fabric turning m/c:
Machine Name : Air turning m/c
Brand Name : Taida
Origin : China
M/c Speed : 300-500m/min
Model : DF 200
Company : Shandong Taida Dyeing & Finishing Machinery Co. Ltd.

Lab Section
5.5.Process flow chart of Batch preparation:
Deliver the Fabric to dyeing section
Receive the order sheet from in-charge
Make the batch card on the priority of shipment date
Take the Batch card which order have to deliver first
Check the availability of the fabric
Turn off the fabric (if necessary)
Distribute the collar/cuff or Rib in each rope equally ensuring equal
length.
Take collar/cuff as per size and keep the total weight
Take require quantity of body fabric from the store
Stitch the fabric
Write down weight against roll no. in the back side of the Batch card
Write the total weight in the batch card
Fill up the Production report form

Lab Section
Precautions during batch making
Check whether count variation is occured or not
Check whether lot variation is occured or not
Check whether rib fabric is included or not
Be sure about the packing instruction , whether it is
Solid color solid size
Solid color assorted size
Assorted color assorted size
Assorted color solid size

Lab Section
6 CHAPTER : LAB SECTION

Lab Section
6.1. Lab dip:
Lab dip is a process by which buyers supplied swatch is matched with the varying dyes
percentage in the laboratory with or without help of “DATA COLOR”
Lab dip plays an important role in shade matching & and detaching the characteristics of
the dyes and chemicals are to be used in the large scale of production so this is an
important task before bulk production.
Objective of Lab dip:
The main objectives in lab are as follows:
 To calculate the recipe for sample dyeing.
 To compare dyed sample with swatch by light Box or spectrophotometer.
 To calculate revise recipe for sample dyeing.
 Finally approved lab dip (Grade: ABC)
Table 6-1: Amount salt and soda used depending on the shade %
Shade % Salt (g/l) Soda (g/l)
0.001-0.01 15 4
0.01-0.1 20 5
0.1-0.5 30 7
0.5-1.0 40 10
1.0-1.5 50 12
1.5-2 60 15
2-3 70 18
3 to above 80 20

Lab Section
6.2.Instrumental Color matching Process:
Spectrophotometer flow Chart
Triangle shade
Initial recipe
Laboratory dyeing
Use L*, a*, b* to match
OK
Production dyeing
Use L*, a*, b* to match
Recipe correction
Not matched
Production correction
Not matched
Input database
History of the lab
Recipe Prediction calculated by CCM
Or calculated by smart shade library
Finished
OK

Lab Section
6.3. Dyes and chemicals measuring formula for laboratory:
◘ The amount of dye solution (ml) is calculated as follow –
Fabric weight x Shade %
Amount of dye soln (ml) = -----------------------------------------------
Concentration of stock dye soln %
Example –
In recipe, Fabric wt. = 5gm
Shade % = 2%
[If used 0. 5 % stock soln of dyes] then,
5 x 2
Amount of dye soln (ml) = ----------- = 20ml.
0.5
◘ The amount of chemical soln (ml) is measured as follow –
Fabric wt. x M: L x g/l
Amount of chemical soln (ml) = --------------------------------------
1000 x Conc. of stock soln %
Example –
In recipe, The Fabric wt. = 5 gm
Salt = 20 g/l
M: L = 10
[If taken 25 % stock soln. of salt] then,
5 x 10 x 20
Amount of chemical soln (ml) = --------------------- = 4 ml
1000 x 0.25

Lab Section
6.4. Stock solution preparation:
SHADE % STOCK SOLUTION %
0.0001-0.009 0.1
0.10-0.99 0.5
1-1.99 1
2-3.99 2
4 ( or above) 4
6.5.Procedure of lab dip formation:
A. For 100% cotton fabric:
 Fabric weight measured by electric balance 5 gm sample is taken.
 Calculate the recipe.
 Make solution of required dyes and chemicals.
 Then required amount of dyes, water, salt, soda and other chemicals are taken to
the pot by digital pipette.(M:L=1:7)
 Wet the fabric with water.
 Keep the fabric in the pot and immerse well with tong.
 Cover the pot well and set to the m/c holder.
 Start the program for dyeing.
 The dyeing time and temperature depend on types of dyes being used.
Program – 1: For light shade
Fixed temp = 60
Time = 60 min.
Program – 2: For dark shade
Fixed temp = 80
Circulation Time = 60 min.
 After finished the dyeing time then cold wash two times.
 Acid wash for neutralization with 1g/l acetic acid.
 Then soaping by required soap solution for 10 min. at 950
C
 Cold wash then drying the lab dip and compare with the standard.

Lab Section
B. For cotton/ blend fabric (all in one method):
 Fabric weight measured by electric balance 5 gm sample is taken.
 Calculate the recipe for polyester part. 1 to April 1
 Make solution of required dyes and chemicals.
 Then required amount of dyes, water, dispersing agent, acetic acid and sodium ace-
tate are taken to the pot by digital pipette.
 Wet the fabric with water.
 Keep the fabric in the pot and immerse well with tong.
 Cover the pot well and set to the m/c holder.
 Start the program for dyeing.
 The dyeing time and temperature are carried out for 30 min. at 1300
C
 After finished the dyeing time then cold wash two times.
 Then reduction clearing by hydrose, caustic & detergent for 20 min at 700
C
 Cold wash then drying and match with the standard sample.
Again,
Dye the cotton part with cotton dyeing procedure.
6.6.Self shade formation:
Dyeing lab in-charge will produce self shade for new dyes stored in the dye store. Self
shade should be ok with the previous self shade of the dye or if any deviation is obtained
then necessary steps should be taken.
Development of self shade:
Reactive Black B:
0.5%,30/8 1%,40/10 1.5%,40/1
0
2%,50/12 2.5%,50/1
2
3%,60/15
3.5%,60/1
5
4%,70/18 4.5%,80/2
0
5%,80/20 6%,80/20

Lab Section
Reactive Yellow 4GL:
Ciba Red FNR:
Reactive Yellow RR:
Reactive Blue:
0.05%,0/6 0.1%,20/6 0.5%,30/8 0.8%,38/8 2%,60/15 3.5%,60/1
5
0.1%,20/6 0.5%,30/8 0.8%,30/8 2%,60/15 3.5%,60/1
5
5%,80/20
2%, 60/15 3.5%, 68/150.5%, 30/8 0.8%, 30/8 1%,48/10
0.05%,20/6 0.1%,20/6 0.5% 20/6 0.8%,20/6 2%,60/15 3.5%,60/1
5

Lab Section
Ciba Orange FNK:
Ciba Yellow FN2R:
Ciba Red FNR:
2%, 50/12 3%, 80/20 4%, 80/20 5.5%, 80/20
0.05%,20/6 0.1%, 20/6 0.25%,30/8 0.5%,30/8 1%,40/10 1.5%,40/10
1.0%,30/8 2.5%,80/20 3.5%,80/20 5.0%,80/20
5%,80/203.5%,80/200.1%,30/8 0.5%,30/8 1%,30/8 2.5%,80/20

Lab Section
Dimarine Scarlet HF3G:
Dimarine Turquoise CIB:
0.005%, 20/6 0.01%,20/6 0.05%,20/6 0.1% 20/6 0.5%,30/8 0.8%,30/8
1%, 40/10 2%, 60/15 3.5%,60/15 5%,60/15
0.005%, 20/6 0.01%,30/6 0.05%,20/6 0.1%,20/6 0.5%,30/8 0.8%,30/8
1%, 40/10 2%, 40/10 3.5%,70/15 5%, 80/20 5.5%,80/20

Lab Section
Reactive Super Black RGB:
Sola Blue RSPL:
0.005%,20/6 0.01%,20/6 0.05%,20/6 0.1%,20/6 0.5%,30/8 0.8%,30/8
1%,40/10 2%,60/15 3.5%,60/15 4%,70/18
0.1 %, 20/6 0.5 %, 38/8 1%, 40/10 1.5%, 48/10 2.5%, 58/12 3.5%, 60/15
4%, 78/18 4.5%, 80/20 5%, 80/20 5.5%, 80/20 7%, 80/20 8.5%, 80/20

Lab Section
6.7.Machine Specification of Dyeing Lab:
Machine No : 01
Machine Name : Power drum
Manufacturer : Samsung
Machine type : Fully automatic washing
machine
Machine No : 02
Manufacturer : Sharp
Country of origin : Japan
Machine type : Washing machine
Machine No : 03
Machine Name :Labdyeing machine
(Polyester dye)
Manufacturer : Irdyer
Machine No : 04
Machine Name :Electrolux washcotar
Model : FOM71MP-lab
Function :Dimensional stability
(Shrinkage)
Machine No : 05
Machine Name : Rota wash
Function : colorfastness to
wash
Machine No : 06
Machine Name : Lab dyeing machine
(Cotton dye)
Manufacturer : IRDYER
Machine No : 07
Machine Name : Dimensional
stability to wash
Manufacturer : LG
Machine No : 08
Machine Name : Tumble dryer
Manufacturer : Indesit
Machine No : 09
Machine Name : Color fastness to
light
Manufacturer : SDL international
Machine No : 10
Machine Name : ICI pilling tester
Country of origin : England
Machine No : 11 Machine Name : 12

Lab Section
Machine Name : Gray Scale
Machine Name : Incubator
Function : Colorfastness to
water
Machine No : 13
Machine Name : Crockmeter
Manufacturer : James H. Heal &
Co. Ltd.
Machine No : 14
Machine Name : Spectrophotometer
Brand : Color-eye 7000A
Machine No : 15
Machine Name : Light box
Manufacturer : Verivide (CAC 120)
Machine No : 16
Machine Name : Overlock sewing
machine

Dyeing Section
7 CHAPTER : DYEING SECTION

Dyeing Section
7.1.Layout of Dyeing Department
Hydro Extractor M/c
Fabric Inspection M/c
1 to 12- Dilmenler Dyeing M/c (Except 10 & 11)
10-bangla Dyeing m/c, 30 kg capacity
11-bangla Dyeing m/c, 50 kg capacity
BWM Bangla Washing M/c
CMC- Color Matching Cabinet
FTM-Fabric Turning M/c
8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
1050
kg
700
kg
525
kg
1400
kg
350
kg
175
kg
50
kg
50
kg
Tumble
Dryer
Tumble
Dryer
Tumble
Dryer
Tumble
Dryer
FTM
FTM
Back
sewing
m/c
Tube
Compactor
Relax Dryer
Tube
squeezer
CM
C
Office Room
Dyeing lab
(1st
floor)
Open
Compactor
Bruckner Stenter
Open
Squeezer
1400 kg
12
10
kg
9
1110
BWM
BW
M

Dyeing Section
7.2.Orgn gram of Dyeing Department:
Chairman
Managing Director
General Manager
Operation
Manager Dyeing
Supervisor
Production
Officer
Worker
Finishing In-
Charge
Quality
Controller
QA In-Charge
Worker
Assistant
Manager QA
Manager
Dyeing
Asst. Manager
Dyeing
Sr. Production
Officer/In-Charge
A.P.O
Production
Officer
Supervisor &
Worker
Supervisor
Officer R&D
Worker
Assistant
Manager R&D

Dyeing Section
7.3.Textile Dyeing:
Dyeing is a coloration process of textile which is invariable carried out in an aqueous
medium.
In the other hand, dyeing can be define as a process by which a yarn, fabric, garments and
any other materials that come to contact of dye by presence of auxiliaries that create the
condition of dyeing environment
Table 7. 1Classes of dyes on the basis of suitability of dyeing different fibers:
Sl. no Name of dyes Suitable for Fibers
01 Acid dyes Wool, silk and Nylon
02 Basic dyes Nylon, Acrylic, Acetate Rayon, Silk, Wool and Jute
03 Direct dyes Cotton, Viscose Rayon, Linen, Nylon, Wool and Silk
04 Azoic dyes Cotton, Viscose and Linen.
05 Vat dyes Cotton, Viscose and Linen.
06 Sulpher dyers Cotton, Viscose and Linen.
07 Reactive dyes Cotton, Viscose, Linen, Wool, Silk and Nylon.
08 Disperse dyes Polyester, Nylon, Acrylic, Acetate Rayon and Triacetate
Rayon.
Cotton:
The repeating unit in the cotton polymer is cellobiose, which consists of two glucose units.
The most important chemical grouping on the cotton polymer is the hydroxyl groups or -OH
groups. As a result
Cotton is a natural Cellulose has an empirical formula of (C6H10O5)n.
Figure 7.1: Cellulose, the polymer of cotton

Dyeing Section
Chemical Composition of Cotton:
Table 7. 2: Chemical composition of raw cotton:
Component Main location Relative amount
Cellulose Secondary wall 86.8 %
Oil and Wax Cuticle 0.70 %
Pectins Primary cell wall 1.0 %
Carbohydrates Primary cell wall 0.50 %
Protein Lumen 1.2 %
Salts Lumen 1.0 %
Water Whole 6.8 %
Others 2.0 %
7.4. Reactive dye:
Reactive dyes are so called because their molecules react chemically with the fibre polymers
of some fibres to form a covalent bond between the dye molecule and fibre polymer. The
fibre most readily coloured with reactive dyes are the man-made and natural cellulose fibres,
synthetic nylon, and natural protein fibres.
History: In 1955, Rattee and Stephen, working for ICI in England, developed a procedure for
dyeing cotton with fiber-reactive dyes containing dichlorotriazine groups. They established
that dyeing cotton with these dyes under mild alkaline conditions resulted in a reactive
chlorine atom on the triazine ring being substituted by an oxygen atom from a cellulose
hydroxyl group This is shown below:
Where Cell–OH is the cellulose with a reactive hydroxyl group, Dye–Cl- is the dye with its
reactive chlorine atom, and Cell–O–Dye the dye linked to the cellulose by a covalent bond.
The role of the alkali is to cause acidic dissociation of some of the hydroxyl groups in the
cellulose, and it is the cellulosate ion (Cell–O-) that reacts with the dye.
2Cell OH HO Cell O H O
Cell O Dye Cl Cell O Dye Cl
 
 
    
      

Dyeing Section
Classification of Reactive dyes on the basis of functional group
Mono-functional
Multi-functional
Bi-functional
Homo-bifunctional
Hetero-bifunctional
Tri-functional
Tetra-functional
Penta- functional
Bi-and poly-functional reactive dyes can be divided into four groups. If the two reactive
groups in the dyestuff molecule are the same, they are known as homobifunctional dyes, and
if they are different, they are known as heterobifunctional types.
Figure 7.2: Bifunctional reactive dye (Remazol Black B, DyStar)
Dyeing machine:
The machine which is used to dyeing or coloring of materials like yarn, fabric, garments or
any other materials is called dyeing machine.

Dyeing Section
7.5.Winch Dyeing Machine:
The winch or beck dyeing machine is quite simple and serves for all scouring,
bleaching, dyeing, washing-off and softening processes. The machine contains a length of
fabric with the ends sewn together, which is compressed to form a continuous rope. This rope
passes from the dye bath over two elevated reels and then falls back into the bath. The first
roller is free-running (jockey or fly roller). The second (winch reel) is driven and controls the
rate of rope transport and the extent of pleating where the rope accumulates below and behind
the winch. Both reels extend the full length of the machine and accommodate several fabric
ropes running side by side. The fabric rope is held on the winch by friction and its own
weight. Covering the winch with polypropylene or polyester tape increases the friction.
Figure 7. 3: Dilmenlar Winch Dyeing m/c
7.6.Principle of winch dyeing machine
 The basic principle of all winch dyeing machines is to have a number of loops or
ropes of the fabric in the dye bath, these ropes are of equal length, which are mostly
immersed in the liquor in the bath.
 The upper part of each rope runs over two reels which are mounted over dye bath. At
the front of the machine, above the top of the dye liquor, is a smaller reel, which is
called jockey or fly roller. The fly roller remains freewheeling along with fabric rope.
 At the back of winch tank is the winch wheel, which pulls the fabric rope from the dye
bath over the jockey reel for dropping in the dye bath for immersion.
 From the dropped location, the fabric rope travels back. To be lifted and fed to winch
wheel.

Dyeing Section
 The dyeing process on winch dyeing machines is based on higher M: L as compared
with other dyeing machines.
 The process is conducted with very little tension.
 The total dyeing time is lengthier as compared to other machines.

Table 7. 3: Production Parameters :
Process Temp(▫C) pH Time min
M : L
ratio
Scouring -
Bleaching
98 10-11 30 1:8
Enzyme Wash 55 4.5-5 30 1:8
Reactive Dyeing
(Light Shade)
60 10-11 60 1:8
Reactive Dyeing
(Dark Shade)
60 11-12 60 1:8
White Shade 98 10.5-11.5 30 1:8
Turquish color dyeing 80-90 11-12 60 1:8
Polyester dyeing 130 4-4.5 45 1:8
7.7.Specification of Dyeing Machine used in N.A.Z Bangladesh LTD:
Machine No # 01
Manufacturer Dilmenler
Capacity 50 kg
No of nozzle 01
Website www.dilmenler.com.tr
Machine No # 02

Dyeing Section
Capacity 50 kg
No of nozzle 01
Machine No # 03
Capacity 1050 kg
No of nozzle 06
Machine No # 04
Capacity 175 kg
No of nozzle 02
Machine No # 05
Capacity 350 kg
No of nozzle 02
Machine No # 06

Dyeing Section
Capacity 1400 kg
No of nozzle 08
Machine No # 07
Capacity 525 kg
No of nozzle 03
Machine No # 08
Capacity 700 kg
No of nozzle 03
Machine No # 09
Capacity 10 kg
No of nozzle 01
Machine No # 10
Capacity 30 kg

Dyeing Section
Machine No # 11
Capacity 70 kg
Machine No # 12
Capacity 1400 kg
No of nozzle 08
Calculation realted to dyeing floor:
39.37 1000
.
Machine Capacity
Winch speed
GSM fabric width no of Nozzle Cycle Timt
 

  
39.37 10000
.
Machine Capacity
Cycle Time
Fabric GSM Fabric width No of Nozzle Winch speed
 

  
Re ( ) %quired Dye kg Shade Fabric weight in Kg 
/
Re
1000
g l required Total liquor
quired Chemicals



Dyeing Section
Figure 7. 4: Cross sectional view of Dilmenler Dyeing m/c
1-Minimum fabric tension with
low level main Winch
2-Adjustable patented nozzle
system
3-Horizontal type cylindrical
filter with large filtering
surface
4-Teflon lined J-BOX bottom
5-J-BOX system which provide
non-tangle even for sensitive
fabric
6-Large inspection port with
platform with three combined
security system
7-Halogen inner lighting
8-Elliptical fabric pipe
9-Rapid machine cleaning
system
10-HAT-PRO 100% hot water
preparation tank
11-Proportional heating &
cooling valves
12-Heat exchanger with
70
C/min heating gradient
INLETINL
ET
Dye
Dosin
g
Tank
Chemic
al
Dosing
Tank
6
5
4
3
2
7
21 8 9
10
11
12
13
14
Water
Inlet

Dyeing Section
Figure 7. 5: Different valves used in Dilmenler winch Dyeing m/c
Cold Soft Water
Inlet
Steam Inlet
Hot Soft Water
InletCondensate Return Line
Cooling Water
Return Line
DN80
DN80
DN 20
Addition
Tank
(Auxiliaries)
Addition
Tank
(Dye)
DN 25
DN 80
DN 80
DN 80
DN 50
HeatExchanger
DN 125
DN 125
DMS
140
DMS
140
DN8
0
DN
80
DMS
140
DMS
140
DN 125
8

Dyeing Section
Controlling Points:
 Air min 6 bar to max 7 bar
 Steam supply min 6 bar to max 8 bar
 Water supply min 2 bar to max 5 bar
Valve fig. Description
Steam valve
Steam valve
Swing check valve
Strainer
Manual valve
Flow scope
Pressure Gauge
½” muff and dummy plug
7.8. Important parts of Dilmenler Winch Dyeing m/c:
Winch:
Winch is an important part of dyeing machine and used for moving the fabric through the
whole dyeing machine. Winch is rotated with the help of motor. Fabric is passed over the
winch and fabric dwell time depends on the winch speed. Winch speed will depend on the
rope length and gsm of the fabric to be dyed. There is opening on the machine for winch to
remove tangled fabric from winch. No. of nozzle per winch is normally 1 or 2 and total no. of
winch per machine will depend on machine capacity.
Figure 7.6: winch

Dyeing Section
Addition Motor:
Addition motor is used to dissolve salt, soda dye and other chemicals. This motor ensures
uniform dispersion of chemicals. This motor is used in the dosing tank and tiere is an agitator
connected to the motor for addition.
Dosing tank:
Dosing tank is used for the application of dyes and chemicals to the dye bath in solution
form. Steam line is connected to the dosing tank. This tank ensures dissolved chemicals and
dyes to the dyeing machine to ensure fault free dyeing.
Nozzle:
Nozzle is the part of winch dyeing machine where dye pick up of the fabric is maximum.
After the winch the fabric is passed through the nozzle. Main motor is connected to the
nozzle and continuously circulate dyeing liquor to the machine via nozzle. Fabric passed with
the pressure of water and used for controlling the speed of dye liquor. There is opening in the
nozzle which can be controlled as required.
Heat Exchanger:
Heat exchanger is used for heating and cooling the dye bath liquor. Heat exchange process is
achieved by passing steam or water through the coiled pipe line present in the heat exchanger.
When heat is increased then steam valve is opened and passed through the coiled pipe line
and dyeing liquor is passed through the heat exchanger. During the passage, heat increase of
dyeing liquor. For reducing heat, water valve will opened and heat will reduce.
J-Box:
J-box of the machine is where fabric will stored after falling from the nozzle. J-shape helps
the smooth passage of fabric. This box contains a deposition tube line attached to the fabric
guide. This box is perforated and ensures easy circulation of dyeing liquor to the machine.
Main motor:
Centrifugal pump is used for circulating the liquor through the dyeing machine. Its capacity
will depend on the capacity of the machine.
Valves:
Different types of valves are used in dyeing machine. Such as steam valve, water valve,
pneumatic valve etc.

Dyeing Section
Viewing light:
Viewing light is given in the dyeing machine to see how the dyeing of the fabric is advancing
in the dyeing machine from outside of the dyeing machine as it is impossible to look into the
dyeing machine due to high steam temperature.
Filter Tube:
Filter tube is used inside the circulating line and drain line through which dyeing liquor is
passed to filter impurities. If the filter is jammed then removed from line and cleaned.
Drain line:
Drain line is used for extracting the liquor out of the dyeing automatically.
7.9.Machine Setup On The Basis Of Fabric Type & GSM
Fabric Type GSM Pump Speed % Reel Speed(MPM)
Single Jersey Up to 140 80 250
140 – 180 85 230
180 – above 90 210
Polo Pique, Back Pique
& Bubble Knit
Up to 160 85 280
160 – 200 90 260
220 – above 90 240
Interlock Up to 180 85 260
180 – 220 90 240
220 – above 90 220

Dyeing Section
7.10. Stock Solution for Production:
S.L no. SHADE % SALT SODA WATER
1 0.0001-0.01 7 5 1:8
2 0.01-0.08 10 6
3 0.08-0.15 12 7
1:7
4 0.15-0.8 15 8
5 0.8-1.5 18 9
6 1.5-2 20 10
7 2-2.5 30 13
8 2.5-3 40 15
9 3-3.5 50 16
10 3.5-4 60 18
11 4-4.5 70 20 1:6
12 4.5 and over 80 20
7.11. Water level for different dyeing m/c on the basis of shade %:
Machine No Light Shade
≤ 0.49 %
Medium Shade
0.5 – 1.99 %
Deep Shade
≥ 2.0 %
DM – 01 4200 Litter 3800 Litter 3600 Litter

Dyeing Section
SM – 01 180 Litter 150 Litter 120 Litter
7.12. Amount of Salt & Alkali on the basis of Shade%
Shade % ( owf ) Glauber salt ( g/l ) Soda ash ( g/l )
0.0010 – 0.2 20 5
0.2 – 1 40 10
1 – 2.5 60 15
2.5 – 4 70 20
4 – 8 80 20
Above 8 100 20

Dyeing Section
7.13. Raw Material Used for Dyeing:
Gray fabrics
Dyes
Chemicals
Table 7.4: Dyes, Chemicals & Cuxiliaries Use in N.A.Z:
Basic Chemicals Suppliers name Country of Origine
Basic acitic acid SINTEX &
CHEM.PTV.LTD
China
Basic common salt Osman Enterprise Local
Basic gluber salt chemical SINTEX &
CHEM.PTV.LTD
China
Basic caustic soda SINTEX &
CHEM.PTV.LTD
China
Basic hydrogen per oxide ASM CHEMICALS Bangladesh
Basic soda ash light SINTEX &
CHEM.PTV.LTD
China
Auxiliaries
Peroxide killer geizyme OEM SM COLOR CHEM USA
Peroxide tesbilizerSR/Stopa-52 chemical SM COLOR CHEM USA
Polyester leveling Melevel -lpf MATEX BANGLADESH
LTD
Bangladesh
Sequestering austol AUSTEX SPAIN
Soaping asugal-ALBI AUSTEX SPAIN
Wetting agent –proder-SCPC/LF AUSTEX SPAIN
White softener gensoft AUSTEX SPAIN
Fixing ecofix DR/SR Ecochem/AUTEX Sri-lanka
Leveling drimegen E2R/ Texotech FORTUNE TOP INC Taiwan
Anticrease-Pac(8460)
Jintex ECO GD CONE FORTUNE TOP INC Taiwan
Gintex ECO GS CONE FORTUNE TOP INC Taiwan
Genifoam NS FORTUNE TOP INC Taiwan
Special Chemicals
Brightener Leuco phor BSB Clariant INDONESEIA
Brightener sun white SUN RISE CHEM. Taiwan
Enzyme producto _EAPS-A/Genincor-
Bf-1600/3500
GENENCOR Singapore
Dyebath Enzyme Techzymr-p 1600 GENENCOR Singapore

Dyeing Section
Silicon softener Gensoft-SA 852 FORTUNE TOP INC Taiwan
Others
Others Sodium Hydrose Chemicals Alif Chemicals China
Dyes
Ciba blue FNR Dyes Swiss color Switzerland
Ciba brill Blue FNG FyesFGFN Swiss color Switzerland
Ciba red FN3G Dyes Swiss color Switzerland
Ciba red FNR Dyes Swiss color Switzerland
Ciba red WB Dyes Swiss color Switzerland
Ciba Navy SG Swiss color Switzerland
Ciba Red C2BL Swiss color Switzerland
Ciba Navy WB Swiss color Switzerland
Ciba yellow CRG Dyes Swiss color Switzerland
Ciba yellow S3R Swiss color Switzerland
Ciba yellow H2G Swiss color Switzerland
Ciba Navy FNB Swiss color Switzerland
Ciba Yellow F4G Dyes Swiss color Switzerland
Ciba Yellow DN2R Dyes Swiss color Switzerland
Ciba Orange FNR Dyes Swiss color Switzerland
Ciba Orange W3R Dyes Swiss color Switzerland
Dianix black CCR Dyes DyStar Switzerland
Dianix Blue SSB Dyes DyStar Switzerland
Dianix Navy CC Dyes DyStar Singapore
Dianix Yellow SEG Dyes DyStar Singapore
Drimarine Blue HFRL Dyes Clariant China/Pakistan
Drimarine BlueCLBRDyes Clariant China/Pakistan
Drimarine Red CL5B Dyes Clariant China/Pakistan
Drimarine Red RH3b Dyes Clariant China/Pakistan
Drimarine Scariate HF3G Dyes Clariant China/Pakistan
Drimarine Tarquise CLB Dyes Clariant China/Pakistan
Drimarine Yellow CL2R Dyes Clariant China/Pakistan
Drimarine Yellow HFR Dyes Clariant China/Pakistan
Reactive G. Yellow 3RS/MERL Kiri Dyes & Chemicals INDIA
Reactive black B Dyes /AB/5 Kiri Dyes & Chemicals INDIA
Reactive Red ME4BL Dyes Kiri Dyes & Chemicals INDIA
Reactive Yellow H4GL Dyes Kiri Dyes & Chemicals INDIA
Reactive Super black G Dyes/AG Kiri Dyes & Chemicals INDIA
Reactobond yellow HW Dyes/AEY Kiri Dyes & Chemicals INDIA

Dyeing Section
Reactobond Red Hw Dyes Kiri Dyes & Chemicals INDIA
Reactive Navy WB Kiri Dyes & Chemicals INDIA
Reattofex orange ME2RL Kiri Dyes & Chemicals INDIA
Remazol Navy RGB Dyes DyStar Singapore
Remazol Red RGB Dyes DyStar Singapore
Remazol Blue RSPL Dyes DyStar Singapore
Remazol RED RR Dyes DyStar Singapore
Remazol Blue RR Dyes DyStar Singapore
Remazol Yellow RR Dyes DyStar Singapore
Synozol Black DR Kyung-in-Synthetic
Corporation
Korea
Synozol Red HF 6BN Kyung-in-Synthetic
Corporation
Korea
Synozol Yellow H F2GR Kyung-in-Synthetic
Corporation
Korea
Synozol brilliant blue KRL Kyung-in-Synthetic
Corporation
Korea
Solacion red HE Solarfine Chemicals China
Reactive Turkish Blue Kiri Dyes & Chemicals INDIA
7.14. Amount of Salt & Alkali (mixed) on the basis of Shade%
Shade% (owf) Glauber salt (g/l) Soda ash (g/l) Caustic (g/l)
Red ≤ 4 80 5 1.2
Navy ≤ 4 80 5 1.2
Black ≤ 4 100 5 1.2

Dyeing Section
7.15.Process Flow Chart for Knit Dyeing: For Pink color
Fabric : Single Jersey Quantity : 1310 kg
GSM : 180 M: L=1:7 (During Pretreatment)
1.8 (During Dyeing)
Color : Pink Water - 9200 lit (Pretreatment)
10500 lit (During Dyeing)
Recipe:
No. Commercial name of Dyes & Chemicals Amount
(g/l or %)
Total amount
Pretreatment:
1. Wetting Agent-Proder_SCPC/LD/NO-LF 0.5 4.48 kg
2. Gintex ECO GS CONE (S.A) 0.1 896gm
3 Peroxide Stabilizer SR/Stabilizer A/Stopa-52 0.4 3.584kg
4 Anticrease-AULIT-PAC(8460) 0.8 7.360 kg
5 Caustic soda 3.0 27.6 kg
6 H2O2 2.75 25.3 kg
7 Peroxide Killer Geizyme OEM/Cetatex PC 0.5 4.6 kg
8 Acetic Acid 1.0 9.2 kg
Dye Bath Chemical:
10 Gintex ECO GS CONE (S.A) 0.2 2.1 kg
12 Leveling Drimegen E2R/Secho IND/Jinleve 1.0 10.50 kg
Dyeing
13 Rea yellow HW 0.01% 0.131 kg
14 Rea. Orange-MEZRL 0.07% 0.917 kg
15 Syno. Red-HF6BN 0.80% 10.48 kg
16 Salt 30 314.4 kg
17 Soda ash 8 83.84 kg
After treatment:
19 Soaping Asugal-ALBI 0.6 5.520 kg
20 Colour Softener Gensoft-100/150/ASUMIN B 0.7% 9.170 kg

Dyeing Section
Dyeing Flow Chart:
Pretreatment:
Fabric loading in the machine and magnet is attached to the fabric rope to ensure cutting of
the fabric from the specific place.
Filling the bath with the required water & run the fabric for 10 min
Raise the temp. to 50°
C @1.5°
C/min and inject wetting agent, sequestering agent, H2O2
stabilizer & Anti creasing agent and run for 10 min at 500
C.
Raise temp. to 60°
C @1.5°
C/min process and linear dosing of caustic for 10 min
Raise temp. to 70°
C @1.5°
C/min process and linear dosing of H2O2 for 10 min.
Raise temp. to 105°
C @1.5°
C/min and run the process for 40 min.
Cooling the bath @1.5°
C/min and drain at 80°
C and then drain
Fill the bath with hot water from reserve tank and wash at 95°
C for 10 min. then drain the
bath and normal wash.
Apply peroxide killer and run at 70°
C for 10 min then drain & wash the fabric.
Acetic acid dosing and pH check (4.5-5) and run 10 min. Then inject enzyme at 55°
C and run
for 40 min
Raise temp. to 80°
C and run 10 min which is called enzyme hot
Then drop the bath and wash for 2 times

Dyeing Section
Dyeing:
After-treatment:
Fill the bath and raise the temp. At 45°
C apply acetic acid and check pH to 5
Inject Sequestering agent, Ant-creasing agent, Leveling agent run 10 min.
½ of total Salt dosing at 45°
C for 10 min with linear dosing and run 10 min
Rest ½ Salt dosing at 45°
Dye linear dosing at 45°
C for 40 min and after 20 min salt is sample checked.
If salt sample is ok then soda progressive dosing for 50 min at 450
C.
After 20 min soda sample is checked and color steam is given to 600
C
Sample checked after 10, 30, 40 min & after 10 min B.D. sample is checked
Then cooling the bath & rinse for 10 min & drain the bath
Fill the bath and raise temp. to 45°
C and dosing acetic acid. Run 10 min then drain.
Unload the fabric from machine.
Fill the bath and raise temperature to 40°
C and dosing softener. Fabric is treated for 20 min
& sample is checked.
Fill the bath & apply soaping agent. Raise temp. to 95°
C. Run 10 min and then drain

Dyeing Section
Figure 7. 7: Dyeing Curve
After-treatment
Wetting agent=0.5g/l
Sequestering agent=o.1g/l
H2O2 stabilizer=0.4g/l
Ant creasing agent=0.8g/l
L
A=Caustic 3g/l
B=H2O2 2.75g/l
C=A.A. 1g/lx10’
D=Enzyme 0.3g/l
E
Acetic Acid 0.2g/l
Sequestering agent 0.1g/l
Ant-creasing agent 0.8g/l
Leveling agent 1g/l
F= Acetic acid 1g/l
G=soaping agent0.6g/l
H= softener 7%
1-8= sample
taken for shade
development
wash
Rinse
10’
1050
Cx4
0’
B
A
C D E Dye
s
Soda
ash
Salt
40
50
60
110
70
80
90
100
0 50 100 150 200 250 300 350 400 450 500 550
Drain
Enzymehot
10’ 10’ 40’ 20’ 50’
20’
1 2
3 4 5 6
F
G
H
Drain DrainDrain
Drain &
Unload
7
8
Cooling
Drain
nL
Fabric run 10’
Hot
wash
Time (min)
Temperature(0
C)
H2O2killer
0.5g/l
Dyeing
30
G
Pre-treatment

Dyeing Section
Shade development :
Note:
 When shade of one stage is ok then go for next stage (usually at 600
C).
 But, when color is already close to target shade at 600
C after 10 min then, temp raise
to 700
C and run for 10 min. Another shade will be checked after 10 min at 700
C and if
shade is ok then bath drop.
 When shade is light then color is added to the dye bath and run until required shade is
obtained.
 In above cases shade development swatch with time will be different.
 Bath drop sample should be darker than the target shade & depending on the shade
soaping decision will be taken.
After 20’ of color
dosing (Salt sample)
After 10 min of soda
dosing (color steam
sample)
600a
C x 10 min 600
C x 30 min
Target Swatch
600
C x 40 min or
BD sample
After Acid After Soaping After Softener

Dyeing Section
7.16. Process Flow Chart for Knit Dyeing: For Black color
Fabric : 1x1 Rib Quantity : 1000 kg
GSM : 180 M: L - 1:7 (During Pretreatment)
1.8 (During Dyeing)
Color : 09A Black Water - 7000 lit (Pretreatment)
Recipe:
(g/l or %)
Total amount
Pretreatment:
1. Jin Tex GD Conc. 1.0 7 kg
2. Jin Tex ECO GS CONE (S.A) 0.2 1.40 kg
Bio-polish
4 Techzyme-P-1600 0.7 % 7.0 kg
Dye Bath Chemical:
Dyeing
9 R. B. yellow HW 0.58% 5.8 kg
10 R.B. Red HW 1.04% 8 kg
11 Rea. Black B 10.7% 107 kg
12 Salt 80 640 kg
13 Soda ash 20 210 kg
14 Caustic 1 g/l 8 kg
After treatment:

Dyeing Section
Dyeing Flow Chart:
Pretreatment & Dyeing:
Inject Jin Tex GD &Jin Tex GS to the dye bath and raise the temp to 95°
C and run for 30 min
Cooling the machine & drain the bath
Raise temp. to 60°
C @1.5°
C/min process & apply acetic acid & run 20 min
Then drain the bath and check pH and set pH to 5
Apply dye bath enzyme at 40°
C and raise temp. to 55°
C and run 30 min.
Cooling the bath & at 45°
C & and inject Sequestering agent, Ant-creasing agent, Leveling agent run
10 min.
Salt dosing at 45°
C for 40 min and after 20 min salt is sample checked.
If salt sample is ok then soda progressive dosing for 50 min at 45°
C.
After 20 min soda sample is checked and color steam is given to 60°
C

Dyeing Section
After treatment:
C and dosing softener. Fabric is treated for 20 min &
sample is checked.

Dyeing Section
Figure 7. 8: DyeingCurve For Black color
Rinse
10’
30
D
Acetic Acid 0.2g/l
Leveling agent 1g/l
E= Acetic acid 1g/l
F= soaping agent0.6g/l
G= softener 7%
1-8= sample taken
for shade
development
Jin Tex GD conc. 2g/l
Jin Tex GS conc. 0.2 g/l
A
B=Acetic Acid 0.4g/l
C=Texzyme-pl600 0.3g/l
D
95°
Cx30’
Cooling
55°
Cx3
0’
Dyeing
40
50
60
110
70
80
90
100
3 4 5 6
Drai
nA
Fabric run 10’
AceticAcid1g/l
60°
C

20min
Drain
C
B
Dyes
Soda
ash
Salt
10’ 10’ 40’ 20’ 50’
20’
1 2
E
G
H
Drain DrainDrain
Drain &
Unload
7
8
F
G
Time (min)
Temperature(°
C)
0 50 100 150 200 250 300 350 400 450 500
Pre-treatment

Dyeing Section
Shade development process:
After 20’ of color
dosing (Salt sample)
After 10 min of soda
dosing (color steam
sample)
60
0
C x 10 min 60
0
C x 30 min
60
0
C x 40 min or
BD sample
Target Swatch

Dyeing Section
7.17.Process Flow Chart for Knit Dyeing: for Black color
Fabric : 1x1 Rib Quantity : 1000 kg
GSM : 180 M: L -1:7 (During Pretreatment) & 1.8 (During Dyeing)
Color : 09A Black Water - 7000 lit (Pretreatment)
Recipe:
(g/l or %)
Tot
al amount
Pretreatment:
1. Wetting Agent-Proder_SCPC/LD/NO-LF 0.5 4.48 kg
2. Gintex ECO GS CONE (S.A) 0.1 896gm
3 Peroxide Stabilizer SR/Stabilizer A/Stopa-52 0.4 3.584kg
5 Caustic soda 3.0 27.6 kg
6 H2O2 2.75 25.3 kg
7 Peroxide Killer Geizyme OEM/Cetatex PC 0.5 4.6 kg
Dye Bath Chemical:
Dyeing
13 R. Red RR 0.48% 6.288 kg
14 Rea. Turq Blue 1.80% + 18% 27.824 kg
15 Sola Blue Rspl 2.94%+ 10% 42.365 kg
16 Salt 80 840 kg
17 Soda 20 210 kg
After treatment:

Dyeing Section
Dyeing Flow Chart:
Pretreatment:
Raise the temp. to 50°
C @ 1.5°
C/min and inject wetting agent, sequestering agent, H2O2
stabilizer & Anti creasing agent and run for 10 min at 50°
C.
Raise temp. to 60°
C @ 1.5°
C/min process and linear dosing of caustic for 10 min
Raise temp. to 70°
C @ 1.5°
C/min process and linear dosing of H2O2 for 10 min.
Raise temp. to 105°
C @ 1.5°
C/min and run the process for 40 min.
Cooling the bath @ 1.5°
C/min and drain at 80°
C and then drain
Fill the bath with hot water from reserve tank and wash at 95°
C for 10 min. then drain the
bath and normal wash.
Apply peroxide killer and run at 70°
C for 10 min then drain & wash the fabric.
Acetic acid dosing and pH check (4.5-5) and run 10 min. Then inject enzyme at 55°
C and run
for 40 min
Raise temp. to 80°
C and run 10 min which is called enzyme hot
Then drop the bath and wash for 2 times

Dyeing Section
Dyeing:
After treatment:
Fill the bath & raise temp. to 45°
C and dosing softener. Fabric is treated for 20 min &
sample is checked.
Fill the bath and raise the temp. At 45°
C apply acetic acid and check pH to 5
Inject Sequestering agent, Ant-creasing agent, Leveling agent run 10 min.
C for 40 min and run 10 min.
½ Salt dosing at 45°
Remaining ½ Salt dosing at 45°
C in10 min with linear dosing and run 10 min
Raise temp. to 80°
C and run 20 min for dye migration & then cooling to 60°
C.
Check sample & if ok then soda progressive dosing for 50 min at 45°
C.
After 20 min soda sample is checked and color steam is given to 60°
C

Dyeing Section
Figure 7. 9: Dyenig Curve for Tequish color (Migration process)
After-treatment
Dyeing
Rinse
10’
Soda
ash
Dye
s
Enzymehot
1050
Cx40’
L
Fabric run 10’30
Temperature(0
C)
Hot
wash
B
A
Wetting agent=0.5g/l
Sequestering agent=o.1g/l
H2O2 stabilizer=0.4g/l
Ant creasing agent=0.8g/l
L
A=Caustic 3g/l
B=H2O2 2.75g/l
C=A.A. 1g/lx10’
D=Enzyme 0.3g/l
E
Acetic Acid 0.2g/l
Leveling agent 1g/l
F= Acetic acid 1g/l
G=soaping agent0.6g/l
H= softener 7%
1-8= sample
taken for shade
development
Drain Wash
800
Cx20’
40
50
60
110
70
80
90
100 G
F H
Drain &
Unload
7
8
Drain DrainDrain
C
H2O2killer
0.5g/l
Cooling
Normal hot
wash
E
1 2 3 4 5 6
10’40’ 10’ 10’ 10’
10’
Salt
1/2
Salt
1/2D
Time (min)
0 5
0
100 150 200 250 300 350 400 450 500 550 600
Migration
Process

Finishing Section
Shade development process:
Note:
 Shade check will be started after cooling from migration process at 600
C. Color is
normally checked with the process.
 Problems can occurred during migration process (uneven shade). At that time temp.
is raised again then treat the fabric.
 In above cases shade development swatch with time will be different.
 Bath drop sample should be darker than the target shade & depending on the shade
soaping decision will be taken.
After migration
process (Salt sample)
After 10 min of
soda dosing
60
0
C x 10 min 60
0
C x 30 min
60
0
C x 40 min or
BD sample
Target Swatch

Finishing Section
7.18. Auxiliaries and its function
Chemical name Function
Anti creasing
Agent
Acts as lubricant and reduce friction between machine parts and
fabric. Thus prevent crease mark formation in the fabric. Those are oil
free substance.
Sequestering
Agent
Used to remove hardness and metal ion present in dyeing liquor.
Hardness of dyeing liquor can occurred due to hardness of fabric after
pretreatment which is 35 ppm and also from salt which is 70 ppm
Leveling Agent Leveling agent reduces the molecular size of the dye and it will slower
the penetration of dye into the fabric. As a result, uniformly dyed
fabric is obtained.
Enzyme Enzyme is used they remove the protruding fibbers from fabric. They
can act their function with the temp. of 550
C and with pH of 4.5-5.
Wetting agent To reduce surface tension of water thus ensures easy penetrating of
chemicals and dye to the fabric.
Anti Foaming
agent
To eliminate foam during dyeing process. Foam arises from water
circulation and material which quickly by, also from auxiliaries which
can generate foam.
H2O2 Hydrogen peroxide is used for bleaching of cotton fabric and to
remove natural color.
Peroxide
Stabilizer
Peroxide stabilizer is used for slowing down the decomposition of
Hydrogen Peroxide because if decomposition of H2O2 is more than the
production of HO2
-
then it can lead to cellulose breakage.
Peroxide Killer Used to remove peroxide remaining in the fabric. Otherwise the fabric
will damaged due to presence of peroxide.
Salt Salt acts as electrolyte and increase absorption of reactive dye into
fibre. salt increase exhaustion of dyes.

Finishing Section
Soda Ash Addition of soda ash causes dissociation of some hydroxyl group in
the cellulose and cellulosate ion begins to react with dye.
Acetic Acid Acetic acid is used to maintain pH of the dye bath in the acidic
medium and also used for neutralization from basic medium to the
neutral nedium.
Softener The function of softener is to soft the hand feel of the fabric and
increase the luster of the fabric.
NaOH Caustic Soda is used for ensuring alkali media in the dye bath and also
reduce the amount of soda that is used for dark shade.
Soaping agent The function of soaping agent is to remove unfixed dyes present in the
fabric.
7.19.Dyeing faults Causes and Remedies:
 Uneven dyeing:
Causes:
 Uneven Pretreatment
 Improper addition of color
 Improper addition of chemical
 Using dyes of high fixation properties
 Less control of dyeing machine
 Less circulation time
Remedies:
 By ensuring even pretreatment
 By proper addition of color and chemicals
 Correct circulation time
 By controlling the dyeing machine properly

Finishing Section
 Batch to batch Shade variation
Causes:
 Using improper dyes and chemicals
 Incorrect pretreatment procedure
 Batch to batch weight variation of fabric
 Batch to batch chemicals and dyes variation (lot variation)
 Improper dosing of dyes and chemicals
Remedies:
 By using standard dyes and chemicals
 By correcting the pretreatment procedure
 By maintaining batch to batch weight variation
 By avoiding lot mixing of dyes and chemicals
 By correcting the dosing time of dyes and chemicals
 By following different dyeing parameter.
 Dark colored spots:
Causes:
 Dyestuff precipitation during dyeing
 Incompatibility of dyestuff used for producing combined shade
 Too high dyestuff concentration in the dye bath
 Precipitation of unabsorbed dyestuff during after treatment
Remedies:
 By ensuring proper dyeing condition
 By selecting proper dyestuff
 By checking the solubility limit of the dyestuff before dyeing
 By ensuring proper after treatment
 Patchy dyeing:
Causes:
 Due to hardness of water
 Due to faulty color addition
 Due to faulty injection of alkali
 Due to improper salt addition
 Due to improper PH of solution

Finishing Section
Remedies:
 By using proper sequestering agent
 By correcting the color addition
 By correcting the salt addition
 By proper injection of alkali
 By maintaining the PH level of the solution
 Crease mark:
Causes:
 Poor opening of the fabric rope
 Due to high speed of machine running
 Unequal pump pressure and reel speed
Remedies:
 By maintaining proper pump pressure and reel speed.
 By controlling the speed of the machine.
 Correct opening of the fabric rope.
 Roll to roll variation:
Causes:
 Poor migration property of dye.
 Hardness of water.
 Improper dyes solubility.
 Faulty machine speed.
Remedies:
 Use standard dyes and chemicals
 Proper machine speed.
 Using soft waste.

Finishing Section
8 CHAPTER : FINISHING SECTION

Finishing Section
8.1.Finishing:
Textile finishing is a term commonly applied to different process that the textile material
under go after pretreatment, dyeing or printing for final embellishment to enhance there
attractiveness and sale appeal as well as for comfort and usefulness.
Objects of finishing:
The aim of finishing is to render textile goods fit for their purpose or end use. Besides that,
finishing can be done for achieving the following purposes-
a) To improve fabric attractiveness.
-By modification of fabric appearance (Calendaring, Optical brightening)
-By altering fabric handle (Softening, Stiffening)
-Control of fabric dimension (Sanforising, Compacting)
b) To improve service ability.
-Protection of fabric (Flame proofing, Water proofing)
-Improved performance (Water repellency, Raising)
-Easy care properties (Resin finish, Crease recovery)
After dyeing, knit fabric is required to finish. During dyeing all knit fabric are dyed in
tubular form. According to buyer's requirement knit fabric are finished in Open form or
tubular form. The tubular and open finishing sequences of N. A. Z. Bangladesh Ltd are
given bellow:
Types of finishing:
1) Chemical finishing:
2) Mechanical finishing:
Finishing effects:
 Easy - care
 Crease recovery.
 Dimensional stability.
 Good abrasion resistance.
 Improved tear strength.
 Good sew ability

Finishing Section
 Soft or stiff handle.
 Shine or luster
8.2.Specification of Finishing Machines used in N.A.Z.:
Table 8.1: List of machine in Finishing Section
Tube Squizer
Machine Name Tubular Squizer
Manufacturer Bianco
Country of origin Italy
Capacity 8000 kg
Maximum speed 80 m/min
No of Chamber 03
No of Padder 3 pair
Tube dryer
Machine Name Tensionless dryer
Manufacturer Lk & LH Co. Ltd
Country of origin Taiwan
Capacity 8000 kg
No of Chamber 04
Tube Compector
Machine Name Tube Compactor
Manufacturer Ferraro
Capacity 6000 kg
No of padder 02
Maximum temperature 200 o
C
Maximum padder pressure 33
Highest overfeed 40
Highest dia 52”

Finishing Section
Open Squizer
Machine name Squizer
Manufacturer Bianco
Maximum dia 120”
Stenter
Machine Name Stenter
Manufacturer Bruckner
Maximum overfeed 60%
No of chamber 6
Maximum temperature 250o
C
Open Compector
Machine Name Compactor
Manufacturer Ferraro
Maximum overfeed 15%
Ultrasoft
Machine Name Ultrasoft
Manufacturer Lafer

Finishing Section
8.3.Observation of Different Finishing M/C:
8.4. Tube Squeezer or De-Watering M/C
After dyeing process from the dyeing machine then the fabrics arc ready for dc-watering.
This is the process to remove the water from the fabric partially by squeezing. This is the
main function of the squeezing machine. But here also control the some important factor of
the fabric quality.
Important parts
• Twist detector
• Expander
• Padder
The basic function of the squeezing m/c:
 To remove the water from the fabric.
 To control the width of the fabric.
 To control the length of the fabric.
 To control the spirality of the fabric.
 To control the over feeding system.
 To increase the softness of the fabric.
 To remove the crease mark of the fabric.
Table 8. 2: Fabric passage & function of diff. parts of Tube squeezer:
Fabric path on
m/c
Function
Turn Table Fabric trolley is placed on the turn table which can rotate in clockwise or
anticlockwise direction. It is connected to the de-twister sensor via inverter. It
will rotate to remove twist from the fabric. Fabric is feed to the machine from
this trolley.
J-Box Fabric is passed through J- box padder in which padder pressure can be
maintained in the range of 1-5 bar. 20% water is extracted here.
Fabric is then stored in flexible tray which can move up & down direction. When
fabric load is high then the tray will automatically lowered & s. When fabric
load is reduced the tray tops the feeding of the fabric. When fabric load is
reduced will move upward & fabric feeding will be started again.
De-Twister A sensor device is present here, which can detect twist in the fabric. If any twist
goes through the de-twister, it will rotate in clockwise or anticlockwise direction

Finishing Section
to remove twist and easy passage of fabric.
Dia-extension
r/r
This is used to control the dia of tubular knit fabric. This devise holds the two
sides of the fabric in tube form and two sensors are present here, which detect
hole in the fabric. If any hole is appeared then the sensor will off the m/c
Water Tray Fabric is washed with water to remove unfixed dyes and impurities. Fabric is
ringed continuously during the passage and constant water level (80 Lt) is
maintained here. Emersion r/r is used to immerse the fabric to the water tray.
Air-pressure
r/r
Air is applied to make the fabric in balloon form. This will help to prevent crease
mark formation due to padder pressure.
Padder Fabric is squeeze here with the help of two large padderes to remove 60% water
Pilling Tray After squeezing the fabric will be stored in pilling tray which relaxes the fabric.
Sensor device is present which detect fabric load. When fabric load is high then
fabric feeding will be reduced automatically.
Chemical
Tray
Fabric is passed through the chemical tray which is connected to the chemical
tank. Chemicals can be applied to the fabric by this tray. Immersion r/r is used to
ensure maximum wet medium.
Air-pressure
r/r
Air is applied to make the fabric in balloon form. This will help to prevent crease
mark formation due to padder pressure.
Padder Fabric is squeeze here with the help of two large padderes to remove excess
chemical. Padder pressure can be maintained as required but will be less then
back padder.
Shaft Fabric dia extension is done with the help of shaft. Sensor is present here to
detect hole. Fabric dia will be kept more than the required dia because fabric
remain 40% wet after squeezing.
Delivery zone Fabric is delivered via folder which moves like pendulum to fold the fabric.

Finishing Section
Figure 8. 1: fabric passage on Tube squeezer m/c
Table 8. 3: Dia extenion on tube squeezer m/c
Fabric Dia extension (%)
Single jersey 4-5
1x1 rib 10-12
Interlock 8-10
Fancy rib fabric 8
Mesh fabric 10-12
Fleece fabric 8-10

Finishing Section
8.5.Relax Dryer
Dryer machine is used to dry the fabric with the help of the steam. Besides drying it
controls the shrinkage and prepares the fabric for the next process
Important Parts:
o Conveyor net
o Chamber
o Burner
o Exhaust air fan
o Over feed roller
o Filter net
o Fan
o Nozzle
The basic function of the dryer:
To dry the fabric.
To control the over feed system (Shrinkage control)
To control the GSM of the fabric.
Controlling Points
o Overfeed (%): It depends on fabric structure
o Temperature: It depends on color.
o Speed: It depends on fabric construction and color. For higher GSM lower the
speed.
Table 8. 4: Fabric passage & function of diff. parts of Relax Dryer:
Fabric path in m/c Function
Fabric Trolley Fabric trolley is placed in front of the m/c & fabric is passed over
guide r/r. Those rollers maintain uniform tension of fabric &
ensure uniform passage of fabric.
Wheel Wheel is used to control tubular fabric dia. Fabric dia in this
wheel will be more than the required finished dia.
Over Feed r/r Over feed the fabric in the dryer.
Net Fabric enters in the dryer in contact with net. There are 4 sets of
net which extend throughout the dryer. Each net forms endless
loop. Those nets provides 3 times more dwell time to the fabric.
Net position is maintained with the help of sensor.

Finishing Section
Heating Chamber Heating is done with super heated steam. Steam is entered to the
heat exchanger through steam pipe. There are 4 heat exchangers
through which heat is applied to the fabric.
Blower Blowers are used to spread heat from heat exchanger through the
whole dryer. There are 8 blowers which are run by individual
motor.
Out line Exhaust fan is used to remove exhausted air from the drying zone.
Folder Folder delivers the fabric to the trolley. Fabric feeding to the
folder is controlled by delivery r/r.
8.6.Tube Compactor
Tube compactor is used to finish knit fabric in tube form;
Important parts
Overfeed roller
Expander
Blanket
Steam sprayers
Cylinder
Teflon covers
The basic functions of the Tube compactor machine
• To control the GSM. (Increase & decrease).
• To control the dia.
• To control the shrinkage. (Increase & decrease).

Finishing Section
Table 8. 5: Fabric passage & function of diff. parts of Tubular Compactor:
Fabric path on m/c Function
Trolley Fabric trolley is placed in front of the machine. From this trolley fabric is
feed to the machine.
Feeding zone Tube fabric is passed through the wheel to control fabric dia. Sensor is
present here and if any hole is going to pass through this section, the m/c
automatically stops.
Steam Tray Steam tray is present after feeding zone. Steam is applied to soften the
fabric. On the top of this zone exhaustion unit is present to remove extra
steam.
Fabric Spreading
Zone
The spreader spread the fabric and set the required width of the fabric.
Magnet is used to hold the wheel which control fabric width. Sensor is also
present here to ensure proper feeding and to detect hole.
Steam Supply Zone Steam is applied to heat and wet the fabric for proper compacting action.
Steam supporter is present here to support steaming action. Extra steam will
out through steam out line.
Compacting Zone The fabric is passed through compacting zone. Compacting action is done
by the action of heated cylinder in the lower side and blanket in the upper
side. The blanket is wrapped over the cylinder and proper compaction is
done by the help of blanket. Sensor is present to fix the blanket.
Fabric Delivery
Zone
Fabric folder delivers the fabric to the delivery tray. Here fabric supporter is
present to press the fabric ply and when required amount of fabric is stored
in the delivery tray, it will automatically pass folded fabric to delivery zone

Finishing Section
Figure 8- 1: FERRARO Comptex R Tube Compactor (Fabric Passing Path)
Controlling parameters of tubular Compactor:
Speed = 0-40
Over feed = 0-30%
Compaction = 0-33%
Temp. = 80-1200
C
Figure 8. 2: fabric passage diagram in tube compactor machine
Note: Fabric dia extension, speed, compaction & overfeed will vary depending on the
fabric type and finishing requirementsControlling Points
8.7.Slitting Machine or open squeezer:
Manufacturer: Bianco
Machine parts:
Rotary blade: To cut the fabric through break wales line
Ring: To help cutting
Guide Roller: To guide the fabric to plaiting
Plaiting: To plate the fabric
Sensor: sense for cutting through break wales line

Finishing Section
Fabric Passage:
Figure 8. 3: Fabric passage in open squeezer m/c.
Controlling parameters of open squeezer:
1. Speed : 0-100m/min
2. Padder pressure : 0-10 bar
3. Air Pressure : 1.5 bar
Note:
1. In case of light color padder pressure should be low. Otherwise shade will be
lighter.
2. If the padder is not clean, then line mark can appear in the fabric.
3. If low gsm S/J fabric is processing, then padder pressure and speed will be
maximum.
4. If high gsm fabric is processing, then padder pressure and speed will be minimum.
5. Padder pressure and speed will vary according to the fabric type.
6. In case of Lycra single jersey fabric, speed & padder pressure will be minimum.
Note: Fabric dia extension, speed, compaction & overfeed will vary depending on the
fabric type and finishing requirements.

Finishing Section
8.8.Open Compactor
The basic functions of the Open compactor machine is to compact the fabric in open form
&
• To control the GSM. (Increase & decrease).
• To control the dia.
• To control the shrinkage. (Increase & decrease).
Important parts
• Over-feed roller
• Blanket
• Steam sprayers
• Cylinder
• Tell on covers
Figure 8. 4: Feraro open compactor
Controlling parameters of tubular Compactor:
Speed = 0-40
Over feed = 0-30%
Compaction = 0-33%
Temp. = 80-1200
C

Finishing Section
Fabric passage in Open Compactor:
Figure 8. 5: fabric passage on open compactor
8.9.Bruckner Stenter:
Stenter machine in very important for finishing knit fabric in open form. It can be used for
the following functions:
 Apply chemical and softener
 To dart set the T/C fabric
 Drying of fabric
 To control width
 Curing of fabric
 Apply pigment dyeing
 To control GSM
 To control shrinkage
 To decrease spirality
 To decrease bowing effect
 Surface coating for teflon finish
 Apply soil release chemical finish
 Heat set for cotton/lycra fabric
 Etc.

Industrial attachment of naz bangladesh ltd

Industrial attachment of naz bangladesh ltd

Recommended

Recommended

More Related Content

What's hot

What's hot (20)

Viewers also liked

Viewers also liked (20)

Similar to Industrial attachment of naz bangladesh ltd

Similar to Industrial attachment of naz bangladesh ltd (20)

More from Md. Mazadul Hasan Shishir

More from Md. Mazadul Hasan Shishir (20)

Recently uploaded

Recently uploaded (20)

Industrial attachment of naz bangladesh ltd