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sewing Thread

sewing thread

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sewing Thread

  1. 1. SEWING THREAD
  2. 2. Fibre Classification Natural Manmade Vegetable Animal Mineral Regenerated Synthetics cotton wool asbestos rayon Inorganic Organic glass polypropylene polyvinyl polyamide polyester
  3. 3. Natural Fibres - Cotton Advantages ƒ Works great for overdyeing ƒ Can withstand heat Disadvantages ƒ Low tenacity ƒ If you need strength, you must increase the thread thickness ƒ Does not sew well on high speed sewing machines ƒ Price Application ƒ Garment Overdyeing ƒ Feminine Products ƒ Tea Bag String
  4. 4. Synthetic Fibres - Spun Polyester Man-made fibre manufactured to replicate the feel of 100% cotton. Advantages ƒ low shrinkage ideal for polyester blends ƒ resistant to sunlight and chemicals ƒ economical alternative for lightweight fabrics Applications ƒ Blouses, skirts and casual shirts ƒ T- shirts with interlock weave ƒ Children's apparels ƒ Sleepwear and Medium-range fleece ƒ Non-lustre logo embroidery
  5. 5. Synthetic Fibres - Corespun Corespun threads combine the physical properties of a synthetic polyester filament (strength, elongation, low shrinkage) with the aesthetic properties of a staple cotton or polyester wrap (softness, appearance, heat protection). Corespun threads have the potential to increase machine productivity by up to 20% over staple spun polyester. Advantages ƒ High seam strength ƒ High speed multi-directional sewing ƒ Helps to contain and eliminate many puckering problems Applications ƒ All Apparel (Lingerie to jeans) ƒ Furniture ƒ Home Furnishings
  6. 6. Core threads are made by wrapping a staple polyester or cotton wrapper around a continuous filament bundle of polyester fibers during spin-ning, and then plying these yarns into a sewing thread. Core threads for the toughest sewing applications from sewing fine blouses that are susceptible to seam puckering ... to denim products that will be stone-washed or sand blasted. Brands: D-Core - cotton wrapped polyester core Perma Core - polyester wrapped polyester core Wrapper 40% Core 60%
  7. 7. Benefits: • 40 to 50% stronger than spun polyester threads the same size • Superior Sewability on both manual and automatic machines with minimum interruptions - fewer restitched seams • Allows the use of smaller diameter threads to minimize Seam Puckering or Needle cutting • Reduced Open-Seams and Seam Failures • Higher initial price compared to spun polyester
  8. 8. Singles Yarn 2 Ply Wrapper 40% Core 60% CORE SPUN Un-twist the thread and separate out a singles yarn. Un-twist the singles yarn. If the thread falls apart, it is a Spun thread construction. If the thread will not fall apart but maintains its strength, then it is a Corespun thread construction.
  9. 9. Continuous filament – Textured Texturing is the process where continuous filament fibres are entangled by various mechanical methods which impart softness and bulk. Market Terminology ƒ Fluff thread ƒ Bulky thread ƒ Wooly thread Applications ƒ Active wear ƒ Lingerie, tee shirts, underwear ƒ Fleece wear ƒ Over lock and Coverseams
  10. 10. Thread Substrates Poly/Cot Core spun D Core Poly/Poly Core spun Perma Core Staple spun polyester Perma Spun C.F. Poly TerylB C.F. Poly – Trilobal Stylo C.F. Poly – Textured Wildcat C.F. Poly – Microfilament Textured Permasoft Cotton - mercerized Anecot
  11. 11. Applications by Substrate  Corespun ƒ Cotton wrapped polyester core used for sewing jeans, chinos, etc. ƒ Polyester wrapped polyester core used for sewing everything from intimate apparel to jeans.  Spun Polyester made from 100% polyester staple fibres also used for most apparel applications.  Textured Polyester used primarily for overedge and coverstitch operations.  Air Entangled Polyester is made from 100% continuous polyester filaments that have been entangled using high pressure air. Generally not a plied construction.Used in some jeans serging operations.  Continuous Filament Nylon or Polyester used for sewing leather goods, footwear,upholstered furniture, sporting goods, luggage, etc.
  12. 12. There is NOT One Perfect Thread for All Seaming Operations … There is NOT One Perfect Thread for All Seaming Operations … However There Is A Perfect Thread for A Specific Sewing Application! However There Is A Perfect Thread for A Specific Sewing Application! “For every sewing requirement!”
  13. 13. YYaarrnn ccoouunnttiinngg ssyysstteemm
  14. 14. Yarn Count Systems Fixed weight Fixed length Number English Number metric Denier Tex Decitex Higher the number the finer the thread. Higher the number the coarser the thread. Cotton counts: Ne 60/2 Ne 50/2 Ne 40/2 Ne 20/4 Metric counts: Nm 80/2 Nm 20/3 Denier: 120d/2 150d 200d 300d Tex: 18 24 40 105 270 D’tex: 50 70 100 400 Cotton Count - number of 840 hanks in 1 pound Metric - number of hanks in 1,000 metres/kilograms Denier - grams per 9,000 metres Tex - grams per 1,000 metres Decitex (D;tex) - grams per 10,000 metres
  15. 15. Two plied thread where 20 is the count of single yarn & /2 stands for number of ply. 20 X 840 yds = 16800 yds/lb The yarns become finer as the count number increases
  16. 16. Metric Sizes 50 75 120 140 180 Yarn Sizes 30/3 40/3 40/2 50/2 60/2 Tex Sizes T- 60 T- 45 T- 30 T- 21 T- 18 1000 meters of Gram Weight greige yarn HK Sizes 604 403 402 502 602
  17. 17. Cotton to Tex 590.5 ÷ cotton count Tex to cotton 590.5 ÷ tex Cotton to metric Cotton count × 1.69 Metric to cotton Metric count × 0.59 Cotton to denier 5315 ÷ cotton count
  18. 18. Stitch Class Description Consumption % of needle thread % of under thread (incl. cover) 301 Lockstitch 3.0 50 50 101 Chainstitch 4.5 100 . 401 2 thread chain stitch 6.0 25 75 304 Zigzag stitch 7.0 50 50 503 2 thread overedge stitch 12.0 55 45 504 3 thread overedge stitch 14.0 20 80 512 4 thread safety stitch 18.0 25 75 516 5 thread safety stitch 20.0 20 80 406 3 thread cover ing stitch 18.0 30 70 602 4 thread cover ing stitch 25.0 20 80 605 5 thread cover ing stitch 28.0 30 70
  19. 19. General guidelines for thread selection Sewing Thread Sizes Weight of Materials Tex 18, 24 Tex 30, 40 (Ounces per Sq Yard) Garment Examples 2 - 4 Tee Shirts, Lingerie Tex 24, 27, 30 4 - 6 Shirts, Dresses 6 - 8 Light Weight Bottoms Tex 40, 60 8 - 12 Light Weight Denim Tex 60, 80, 105 12 - 15 Heavy Weight Denim

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