fabric and garment finishing DFT-IV

1. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY,
GANDHINAGAR
Submitted To-
Ettishree Rajput
Submitted By:
NIVEDITA KUMARI
PRASHANT SRIVASTAVA
RANGNATH RAMAN
SUNIDHI KUMARI
RAVISH KHAN ( DFT-4)
FGF ASSIGNMENT -IV
1

2. Pressing
 Pressing is the application of heat, moisture
and pressure to shape, mould, or crease
fabrics,garments, or garment parts into the
geometric forms.
 Pressing may be done :
 During assembly to facilitate other operations
and improve quality.
 Final finishing process
 The purpose of pressing is to make the fabric
smooth or to give it a form, such as turnup or
hem.

3. Elements of Pressing
 Heat : Heat is needed in most pressing processes to
soften fibers, stabilize and set the desired shape .
Temperatures must be selected to suit the fibers ,
yarns , and fabrics used in a particular style . Sources
of heat include heated surfaces and steam.
 Steam (Moisture):It is the fastest means of transferring
heat into the fabrics . Steam is created by heating
water in a pressure/boiler. The higher the pressure ,
the hotter and drier the steam . Different fabrics
require different amount of moisture and heat ,
excessive moisture may cause shrinkage and color
bleeding and must be used under controlled
conditions.

4.  Pressure : It is applied to alter shape and increase
the permanency of the moulding or creasing. Too
much pressure may distort fabric surfaces , flatten
textures and create permanent garment and/or
fabric damage.
 Vacuum : After application of heat and moisture ,
it is the vacuum which sucks ambient air through
the garment as it lies on the buck or pressing table.
This rapidly dries out residual moisture from the
garment and ensures that the set imparted by
pressing is retained. Suction also ensures garments
is in place before pressing and it does not shift.

5. Types Of Pressing Equipment
 Buck presses.
 Iron pressing.
 Block or die pressing.
 Form pressing.
 Steamers.
 Steam tunnels.

6. Buck Pressing
 These are commonly used by
manufactures of slacks , skirts , and
jackets.
 Components-
1. Lower buck
2. Moveable head with a linkage system
3. Buck padding stem and vacuum
system frame
4. Manual or automatic control for
steams, vacuum ,heat and pressure.
5. Covered with heat resistent silicon
Foams
 It may be used for in-process
pressing & finish pressing. Press for jacket
shoulders and collars.

7. Iron Pressing
 Point presser: for pressing
collars and cuffs
 Tailors ham: For darts and
curved seams
 Sleeve Board: It is two small
ironing boards to press
narrow areas such as sleeves
and trouser legs.
 MITT: to press sleeve caps
and ruffles.

8. Block Pressing
 It is a molding process that
establishes a products
conformance to a form.
 It may change the surface
characteristics and
dimension of a product.
 The fabric is placed on a
fixed form before pressure
heat and steam is applied.
 It is used to crease patch
pockets and pocket flaps.
Fig:-Block pressing

9. Form Pressing
 Form presses are made in the
approximate shape of the finished
garments.
 Steam is forced from the inside of
the form through garment while the
form expands to fill all the space
inside the garment.
 It is designed to reduce the amount
of positioning and re-positioning
time.
Fig:- Form pressing

10. Steamers
 These are the pressing machine
that uses only steam to mold and
smooth the garment.
 Types of steamers-
steam jets.
steam guns.
steam puffs.
steam tunnels.
 These devices may be used
either to form and stabilize
garment shape.
fig:- Steamers

11. Steam Tunnels
 These are used for final pressing.
 Garments are de-wrinkled within a chamber by
the average pressure of circulating steam.
 Garments are carried over the nozzle of a steam
jet in order for the garment to receive the full
force of the steam pressure.
 It reduces labor costs and process garment at a
rate of 1200 to 3600 units per hour.

12. • Head is suspended on rocker arms
for self aligning with the bed.
• Machined pressing surface.
• Pneumatic raising and lowering with
push buttons.
• Perforated bed prodded with
sponge padding. Powerful
centrifugal suction for moisture
exhaust.
• Automatic timed release of the
head at preset time.
• Automatic digital temperature
control of the head.
Flat Bed Pneumatic

13. Compressed air
 Compressed
air is air kept under
a pressure that is
greater than
atmospheric pressure.
 Compressed air, also
referred to as the
"4th Utility" (after
electricity, water &
steam) is one of the
major energy
consumption utility in
any industry.

14. Use of Compressed Air in
Textile Industry
In Textile manufacturing units, generally following
Compressed air powered pneumatic systems are
used :
 Spinning machine : For control purpose through
valves and cylinders
 Loom Jet Weaving : For the insertion of weft
 Winding Device : For the purpose of splicing of
yarn
 Stacking Device
 Printing machines
 Thread Detector
 Sewing Machine

15. Applications
• Compressed air is used mainly as a motive force to
actuate the process control valves and machines in
a textile mill.
• System Cooling
• Clamping
• Blowing out residual / dust material
• Sewing Needle
• Conveying
• Texturizing
• Automated Equipment
• Cleaning
• Pneumatic control

16. Energy Savings in Ironing and
Pressing
 Despite growing concerns with energy,
companies are still suffering from low
interest in energy efficiency mainly
due to the low ratio of energy costs /
total costs and low internal knowledge
on this area, accordingly there is an
interesting potential for savings in the
clothing industry.

17. Vacuum
 Vacuum systems are used to remove the excess
steam used in the equipments of finishing and
pressing sub processes and for suction of waste
produced by cutting and sewing sub processes.
Over-consumption in this area is due to:
 All or nothing utilization, i.e, even if only one
production machine is in use the suction is being
applied to all machines;
 Leakage in network;
 Extracted hot air is wasted (of steam consumer
machines)
 Lack of electronic control and frequency variation.

18. Heat (boiler and gas/fuel
supply)
 In the clothing industry thermal energy
is used in air conditioning, in finishing
and preparation for sewing sub
processes and, in some companies, for
treatment. This energy can either be
supplied by direct combustion of gas
in the productive machines, or
indirectly through production of steam
or hot water.

19. Critical points for excess consumption by indirect means:
 Boiler / Steam Generator oversized;
 Boiler / Steam generator poorly insulated or uninsolated;
 Produced steam pressure higher than required;
Misadjusted burner;
 Uninsulated pipes and fittings;
 Leakage in steam / hot water network;
 Waste of condensates from the steam network;
 Malfunction of network accessories;
 Inexistent flue gas heat recuperation;
 Deficient maintenance / cleaning.

20. Critical points for excess consumption
through direct feed:
Uninsolated consumer equipment;
 Misadjusted burner;
Unmodulated burner control;
Oversized ventilator or without
control.

21. Compressed air
 Compressed air is a critical point not only
because is the most expensive form of energy
in the plant but also its optimization is
relatively easy.
 The most significant losses in production,
distribution and use of compressed air, are:
 Inexistent cut valves for air consumers;
 Leaks in the distribution network;
 Distribution network undersized;
 Produced pressure is greater than necessary;
 Oversized air compressor;

22. Iron
 Ironing is the use of a heated tool to remove wrinkles from
fabric.
 Ironing involves sliding an iron back and forth to remove wrinkles
and is normally only done to finished garments.
 The heating is commonly done to a temperature of 180–220
°Celsius, depending on the fabric.
 Ironing works by loosening the bonds between the long-
chain polymer molecules in the fibers of the material.
 While the molecules are hot, the fibers are straightened by the
weight of the iron, and they hold their new shape as they cool.

23. Types Of Iron
A. Dry Iron
 light weight irons weighing about 1.4 kgs with a heat range of
between 70 and 240 degree C and electronic temperature
controls that have a reliable accuracy of +/- 3 degree C.
 This type of iron is made in a variety of shapes and is mainly used
for smoothing or finishing operations where steam is unnecessary.

24. Types Of Iron cont…
B. Electric Steam Irons
 These are the most commonly used type of hand iron and carry out a wide
variety of operations, especially those concerned with under pressing.
 The iron has a heating element and steam is fed from a central or
independent boiler into the steam chamber in the base of the iron.
 The heat generated can be controlled by a thermostat, and supplied with
steam either from factory’s main steam supply or from a small boiler adjacent
to the pressing unit.
 The steam function of the iron is activated by the touch of a button.

25. Different temperatures
required for different fabrics

26. The manufacturing Process
Sole plate
 The sole plate is cast of molten aluminum. Part of the mold creates the
holes that are essential in a steam iron
 The cooled sole plate is polished, coated with a non-stick PTFE(a
thermoplastic polymer ) material, or stainless steel.
 To polish the plate, an automated belt sander uses bands of abrasive to
polish and buff the plate.
 An automated spray-painting machine applies non-stick coating. After
application, the sole plate is baked in an automated industrial process.
Thermostat
 In an injection mold, a small metal post is cast.
 A spring is mounted onto the metal post. This spring is a bimetallic switch
made of two different metals with divergent linear thermal coefficients
bonded together which controls the iron's temperature.
Assembly
 When all the parts are manufactured, the iron is assembled on an
automated assembly line.

27. Distinguishing Electric-steam
Iron from All-steam Iron Steam is used to heat the iron and discharge a moist spray, whereas a
steam electric iron uses a heating element to keep the iron warm and a
solenoid holds the steam from the iron until called for
 All steam irons have live steam circulating in the iron and the iron hoses
can burst and scald someone. The steam electric iron also has a hose but
the electric solenoid holds the steam out of the hose until the electric
micro-switch is touched on the iron. Thus there is no steam under pressure
in the iron.
 In all-steam irons, temperature depends on the pressure of the steam. This
limits the working temperature for the irons between 140 to 1500 C,
whereas a steam electric has a thermostat which will allow the
temperature to be finely adjusted from 100 to 2000 C.

28. Types of Iron Tables
There are three types of iron tables –
1. vacuum table
2. ‘up steam’table
3. Blow up table

29. Vacuum Table
The vacuum is sucked through the table
surface to lay the garment flat on the
surface as well as suck the residual
moisture and heat from the garment after
ironing.

30. ‘Upsteam ’table
 In this steam comes up from table
surface through garments thus
moistening the garment.
 This is used for knitted garments.
 An up-steam table guarantees a
complete and even distribution of
steam and suction over the whole
surface.
 All parts contacted by steam are
made of stainless steel.
which prevents spots from corrosion
and guarantees a long working life
and trouble-free operation.

31. Blow Up Table
 In 1969, VEIT invented the blow up table that offers
cushioning effect to the garments due to the upward
thrust of air from the table which prevents ironing marks
on the garments.
 Air blowing is used in combination with vacuum to
assist in finishing the garment without leaving marks.
 Using air blowing, the garment is expanded and
pressed on a cushion of air where ironing is possible
without putting in marks.

32. Ironing Table Cover Cloth
It is very important to have a
proper cover system to maintain
proper suction, which should not
be too hard or too soft.
The cover cloth should be porous to
be able to draw the vacuum
through the garment to dry and
cool it.

33. Ironing Table Consists Of
Following Layers:-
There are Five layers:
1. The Top Cover,
2. The Intermediate Layer,
3. Adjusting Fibre,
4. Base Layer and
5. Ironing Surface.

34. The Top Cover
 The Top Cover may consist of either synthetic fibre,
which has long life, short-term heat-resistance up
to
1800 C and hand washable in soap water (300
C), or
 polyester fibre, especially for fabrics that are
subject to sheen and mostly used with hard covers
(seam ironing).
 It could also use synthetic coarse fibre, which is
slide resistant. It keeps the garment as positioned,
has a long life and short-term heat-resistance up
to 1900 C.

35. The Intermediate Layer(about 5 – 10
mm thick)
 This padding is responsible for the softness of the
covering and thus directly influences the ironing
result. A hard padding usually is more durable and
speeds up ironing as the pressure of the iron is not
absorbed.
Adjusting Fibre
•The Adjusting Fibre guarantees the complete
splitting of the condensate drops and reduces the
humidity in the cover system.

36.  The Base Layer is generally a patented
silicon mat for long term good suction
result. This distributes strong airflow
evenly over the entire surface, can be
cleaned easily by compressed air.
 It could also be of polyurethane
material of 6 mm thickness, which
permits good air flow over the entire
surface.
Base Layer

37. Steam Brush
 A ‘steam brush’ is indispensable to
finish off smoothening out creases
and undoing shrinkage.
 It is very rational since it can be used
to finish a hanging garment on a
hanger.
 With high quality and strong steam, it
is suitable for finishing such clothes as
light suits, synthetic fibres and even
gathers and frills.

38. Parts

39. How to use??
 Once the appliance is plugged in, the light
will turn on. Set the steam control dial to the
desired setting.
 After approximately 30 seconds, the light
will turn off indicating the steam brush, has
reached working temperature.
 To begin steaming, press the steam button
with the steamer head facing away from
you, in vertical position.
 Be sure to remove lint pad when steaming
as excessive water or steam can cause lint
pad color to run.

40. Steam setting

41. Problems Related to Steam
Brush With Their Solutions

42. References
 http://content.abt.com/documents/28966/DR5020_use.pdf
 https://12textile.wordpress.com/tag/application-of-
thermodynamics-and-textile/
 http://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-
article/21/2059/growing-role-of-compressed-air-system-in-
textile-industries1.asp
 http://www.delairindia.com/application_detail.php?AppID
=9
 http://www.cottonyarnmarket.net/OASMTP/Compressed%2
0air%20in%20Textile%20Industry.pdf
 http://euratex.eu/fileadmin/user_upload/images/ongoing_
projects/Critical_energy_saving_points_in_clothing_industry.
pdf