SlideShare a Scribd company logo
1 of 5
Download to read offline
DUET Journal Vol. 1, Issue 3, June 2012
Dhaka University of Engineering & Technology, Gazipur 12
Effect of Machine Parameters on Knit Fabric Specifications
Shekh Md Mamun Kabir1
and Mohammad Zakaria2
1
Lecturer, Dept. of Wet Processing Engineering, Bangladesh University of Textiles, Tejgaon, Dhaka-1208, Bangladesh
2
Lecturer, Dept of Textile Engineering, Dhaka University of Engineering & Technology, Gazipur, Bangladesh
E-mail: zakariate@duet.ac.bd
ABSTRACT
Cotton knit fabrics of yarn count 16Ne, 20Ne, 26Ne, 30Ne, 40Ne and 120-200 GSM for plain, 165-280 GSM for rib,
205-250 GSM for interlock were investigated with different machine parameters. The investigation developed a way
so that it can be visualized or can forecast the resulting fabric specification with required configuration. The research
emphasized on the adjustable points on which fabric GSM, stitch length, fabric width, and compactness directly or
indirectly depends. It can be approached that the yarn count increases with the machine gauge. At different ranges of
GSM the variation of the finished fabric diameter with the machine diameter is different. From a constant, VDQ
number can be obtained for a particular stitch length and fabric design.
Key Words: GSM, Stitch length, Yarn count, Fabric Width, Machine gauge, Needle.
1. INTRODUCTION
Fabric or cloth is a flexible artificial material that is made
by a network of natural or artificial fibers. The example is
thread or yarn which is formed by weaving or knitting or
felting. So, fabric is a manufactured assembly of fibers
and/or yarns that has substantial surface area in relation to
its thickness and sufficient cohesion to give the assembly
useful mechanical strength. There are three principal
methods of mechanically manipulating yarn into textile
fabrics-interlacing, intertwining and interloping. All three
methods have evolved from hand manipulated techniques
through their application or primitive frames into
sophisticated manufacturing operations on automatic
machinery. Knitted fabric specification which are related to
knitted fabric production. In case of knitted fabric
specification GSM, stitch length is mainly considered. The
common problem of all industries is to produce knitted
fabrics of required GSM. Other specification like fabric
width, thickness is generally maintained in industries by
previous data sheet. So, problem occurs when an order
comes which never produced in previous. The goal of our
project is to find out easy process or method to take
decision about the selection of yarn count, loop length,
machine gauge and diameter for producing single jersey, rib
and interlock fabric of ordered GSM.
Many research works were carried out on the behavior of
fabric with machines specifications both experimentally &
numerically all over the world from different angle of
views. Iyer I., Mammel B., Schach J. [4], Ghazi Saeidi R.,
Latifi M., Shaikhzadeh Najar S., and Ghazi Saeidi A. [5],
Shady E., Gowayed Y., Abouiiana M., Youssef S. and
Pastore C [6] are some of the researchers who worked on
according to the “Circular knitting: technology process
structure yarn quality”, "Computer Vision-Aided Fabric
Inspection System for On-Circular Knitting Machine",
“Detection and Classification of Defects in Knitted Fabric
Structures”. Although a variety of research work carried out
from different perspective but the investigation of fabric
specification with the change of machine parameters is
relatively limited.
2. GENERAL DISCUSSION
2.1. Plain Structure
Plain is the base structure of ladies‟ hosiery, fully fashioned
knitwear and single-jersey fabrics. Its use in ladies‟ suiting
is known as the „Jersey Lily‟ (see in Fig.1). Other names
for plain include stockinet, whilst in the USA the term
„shaker stitch‟ is applied to it when knitted in a coarse
gauge of about 31– 32 needles Per inch (25mm).
2.2. Rib Structure
The simplest rib fabric is 1 X 1 rib. The first rib frame was
invented by Jedediah Strutt of Derby in 1755, which used a
second set of needles to pick up and knit the sinker loops of
the first set. It is now normally knitted with two sets of latch
needles. 1 X 1 rib is production of by two sets of needles
being alternately set or gated between each other. Relaxed 1
X 1 rib is theoretically twice the thickness and half the
width of an equivalent plain fabric, but it has twice as much
width-wise recoverable stretch. In practice, 1 X 1 rib
normally relaxes by approximately 30 percent compared
with its knitting width (see Fig. 2).
2.3. Interlock Structure
Figure 3 shows that interlock was knitted almost solely in
cotton on 20 gauge (needles per inch) machines for
DUET Journal Vol. 1, Issue 3, June 2012
Dhaka University of Engineering & Technology, Gazipur 13
underwear, a typical weight being 5oz per square yard (170
g per Square meter) using 1/40‟s s cotton, but from the
1950s onwards, 18 gauge machines were developed for
knitting double-jersey for semi-tailored suiting because the
open-width fabric could be finished on existing equipment.
As the machines became more versatile in their capabilities,
the range of structures became greater.
Fig. 1: Structure of single jersey knitted fabric.
Fig. 2: Structure of 1X1 Rib fabric.
Fig. 3: Structure of interlock fabric
2.4. Circular Knitting Machine
Most single-jersey fabric is produced on circular machines
whose latch needle cylinder and sinker ring revolve through
the stationary knitting cam systems that, together with their
yarn feeders, are situated at regular intervals around the
circumference of the cylinder. The yarns is supplied from
cones, placed either on an integral overhead bobbin stand or
on a free-standing creel, through tensioners, stop motions
and guide eyes down to the yarn feeder guides (see Fig. 4).
Fig. 4: Circular knitting machine
Machine Parts:
1. Yarn feeder guide, 2. Latch needle, 3. Holding-down
sinker, 4. Needle cylinder, 5. Cylinder driving wheel.
6. Cylinder driving gear, 7. Sinker-operating cams, 8.
Sinker cam-cap, 9. Sinker trick ring, 10. Needle-retaining
spring, 11. Needle-operating cams, 12. Cam-box, 13. Cam-
plate, 14. Head plate, 15. Cylinder driving pinion attached
to the main drive shaft.
3. MACHINE PARAMETERS
1. Machine gauge.
2. Machine Diameter.
3. V.D.Q Pulley
4. Needle gauge.
3.1. Machine Gauge
No. of needles per inch present in a needle bed of a knitting
machine is called machine gauge for that knitting machine.
Selection of machine gauge depends upon the following:
Yarn count, Fibre type, Yarn twist, Yarn finished. General
practices of machine gauge and yarn count in different
industries in Bangladesh are shown in Tables- 1, 2 & 3.
From this study of the data collected from the different
factories we can see that the gauge increases with the
English count (Ne) of the yarn.
3.2. Machine Diameter
Machine diameter is mainly diameter of m/c cylinder. It is
important for fabric width. Only diameter does not fetermi-
Cylinder loops
Dial loops
Course
DUET Journal Vol. 1, Issue 3, June 2012
Dhaka University of Engineering & Technology, Gazipur 14
Table 1: Typical Selection of M/C Gauge for Different
Count Yarn:
Gauge
Count (Ne)
Low High Limit
32 32/1 46/1 60/1
28 30/1 46/1 60/1
24 20/1 46/1 50/1
22 20/1 40/1
20 20/1 40/1
18 20/1 40/1
16 10/1 24/1
Table 2: Relation between machine gauge and yarn count
(Single jersey):
S/J
M/C gauge
Count
(Ne)
M/C
gauge
Count
(Ne)
18 30 24 30
20 26 24 30
22 20 24 40
24 30 24 28
24 34 24 28
24 28 24 30
24 30 24 34
24 30 24 34
24 30 24 26
24 30 28 40
24 34 28 50
Table 3: Relation between machine gauge and yarn count
(1X1 Rib & Interlock)
1X1 Rib Interlock
M/C
gauge
Count (Ne)
M/C
gauge
Count (Ne)
18 30 24 46
16 28 24 46
16 30 24 40
18 26 24 40
18 24 24 34
18 28 24 36
16 30 24 36
ne the fabric width. It also needs machine gauge and wales
space which is depends upon yarn count and loop length
(see Tables- 4, 5, 6 & Fig.5, 6, 7). Tables show that same
machine with the specific diameter can produce fabrics
with different width.
3.3. V.D.Q (variable dia. for quality) Pulley
V.D.Q pulley is a pulley which drives several smaller
pulleys by a tooted belt. These smaller pulleys are at the
driven position and drive a clutch device which engages
with the yarn wheel. By varying the dia of the V.D.Q
pulley, which is at the driver position, the amount of the
yarn feeding can be controlled. This variation in the yarn
feeding varies the stitch length and the G.S.M (see Fig.8).
V.D.Q a Stitch length (when needle is same)
V.D.Q a No. of Needle (when stitch is same)
 From the above two expression we get,
V.D.Q a Stitch length X Needle
Constant, Kv =
This constant Kv varies with the diameter of the machine,
type of the machine (single or double jersey), different
brand of machines. [Shown in Table-7]
Table 4: Relationship between M/C diameter and fabric
diameter (single jersey)
M/C Finished dia. of fabric (inch)
M/C
Dia.
(inch)
M/C
Gauge
Count-
20/1
Ne &
Fin
GSM-
190-
200
Count
-24/1
Ne &
Fin
GSM-
175-
185
Count
-26/1
Ne &
Fin
GSM-
155-
165
Count
-40/1
Ne &
Fin
GSM-
110-
120
20 24 23.2 21.7 20.8 16.1
20 20 19.6 18.4 18 18
24 24 27.4 25.7 24.6 19.1
28 24 32.6 30.8 29.3 22.7
30 24 35 32.8 31.5 24.4
36 24 42 39.6 38 29.4
38 24 44.5 41.7 40 31
40 24 46.7 43.8 42 32.5
42 24 48.9 45.8 44 34.1
3.4. Needle Gauge
Thickness of needle express by the needle gauge. It is
important for selection of machine gauge. Needle gauge is
Fig. 5: Change of fabric diameter with machine diameter
with respect to GSM.
DUET Journal Vol. 1, Issue 3, June 2012
Dhaka University of Engineering & Technology, Gazipur 15
differing for the different needle types and different Brand
(see Fig. 9). According to the result of study Machine
gauge is 24 then Needle thickness is 0.52mm and Machine
gauge is 28 then Needle thickness is 0.41mm.
Fig. 6: Change the fabric diameter with M/C diameter with
respect to GSM
Fig. 7: Change the fabric diameter with M/C diameter with
respect to GSM
Table 5: Relationship between M/C diameter and fabric
width (1X1 Rib)
1X1 Rib
M/C Finished dia. of fabric (inch)
M/C
Dia.
(inch)
M/C
Gauge
Count-
20/1
Ne &
Fin
GSM-
270-
280
Count-
24/1
Ne &
Fin
GSM-
230-
240
Count-
26/1
Ne &
Fin
GSM-
215-
225
Count-
40/1
Ne &
Fin
GSM-
155-
165
30 18 34 32 31 26
36 18 40 38.5 37 32
40 18 44 43 41.5 36
42 18 46 45 43.5 38
Table 6: Relationship between M/C diameter and fabric
width (Interlock).
Interlock
M/C Finished dia. of fabric (inch)
M/C
Dia.
(inch)
M/C
Gauge
Count-
30/1 Ne &
Fin GSM-
250-260
Count-
34/1 Ne
& Fin
GSM-
225-240
Count-
40/1 Ne
& Fin
GSM-
205-215
30 22 26 26.5 29
36 22 31 34 35
38 22 33 36 37
Fig. 8: V.D.Q pulley.
4. RESULTS AND DISCUSSION
We have got some result from different experiment of
various fabric parameters. From the research we have found
some relation among the fabric Specifications with the
machine parameters. The result is based on the data
collected from the factories.
4.1. Selection of the gauge corresponding to the yarn
count
In the industry there is a range of yarn counts that a
particular gauge of a machine can accommodate. They
follow the range to select the precise gauge. Now we have
analyzed the data to see the variations of yarn count with
machine gauge. The table is as follow: [Table-8] Usually
the yarn count increases with the machine gauge.
4.2. Relation between M/C dia and fabric dia
The fabric dia is the width of the fabric in the tubular form.
The finished fabric dia varies with the M/C dia. At different
ranges of GSM the variation of the finished fabric dia with
the M/C dia is different. Different fabric structures show
different variation. But same structure follows a particular
path of variation.
DUET Journal Vol. 1, Issue 3, June 2012
Dhaka University of Engineering & Technology, Gazipur 16
Fig-9: Needle in knitting machine.
4.3. V.D.Q pulley constant
There is a relation of V.D.Q number, stitch length and
needle number. It is,
Constant, Kv =
This constant is dependent mainly on the M/C. Different
machine type, brand; diameter can vary the value of the
constant. For a given machine the constant is same.
For Single jersey fabric the V.D.Q pulley constant is
41.20825 & for Rib fabric the V.D.Q pulley constant is
68.76084.
With these values a better selection of VDQ number can be
obtained for a particular stitch length.
Table 7: The value of Kv for different M/Cs
M/C Dia. X Gauge No. of
Needle
V.D.Q Stitch Length
(mm)
Constant, Kv =
S/J 1 23*24 1728 125 2.90 40.0896
2 23*24 1728 110 2.60 40.8436
3 24*24 1800 118 2.75 41.9499
Rib 1 38*24 2136X2 151 2.55 72.1430
2 38*24 2136X2 100 1.70 72.624
3 34*24 1920X2 102 2.55 78.336
Table 8: Relation of Machine gauge with yarn count
Gauge Count (Ne)
Low High Limit
32 32/1 46/1 60/1
28 30/1 46/1 60/1
24 20/1 46/1 50/1
22 20/1 40/1
20 20/1 40/1
18 20/1 40/1
16 10/1 24/1
5. CONCLUSIONS
In this research we tried to analyze and observe different
characteristics of the fabric specifications and machine
parameters and to build up some relations among those.
Most of the relations are building with the help of the data
collected from the mills and factories. Some of the data are
collected gained by experiments.
In some cases our data was limited. The limitation of data
may create some undesirable consequences. More data have
to be collected to obtain a precise result. Experiments have
to be done on the common fabrics and other fabrics to get a
better understanding of the fabric specifications and
machine parameters.
REFERENCES
[1] David J. Spencer, Knitting Technology by “Wood head
Publishing Limited”- Third Edition.
[2] Horrocks & Anand, Handbook of Technical Textile
[3] Professor J E Mclintyre & P N Daniels, Textile Terms
& Definitions published by “The Textile Instute”-
Tenth Edition.
[4] Iyer I., Mammel B., Schach J., Circular knitting:
technology process structure yarn quality, Second
Edition, Meisenbach GmbH, Bambreg, Germany,
1957.
[5] Ghazi Saeidi R., Latifi M., Shaikhzadeh Najar S., and
Ghazi Saeidi A., "Computer Vision-Aided Fabric
Inspection System for On-Circular Knitting Machine"
Textile Research Journal, 75(6), 492497, 2005.
[6] Shady E., Gowayed Y., Abouiiana M., Youssef S. and
Pastore C., Detection and Classification of Defects in
Knitted Fabric Structures, Textile Research Journal,
76(4),295-300, 2006.
[7] Abouiiana M., Youssef S., Pastore C. and Gowayed Y.,
Assessing structure changes in knits during processing,
Textile Research Journal, 73(6), 535-540, 2003.

More Related Content

What's hot

Presentation on spirality & shrinkage
Presentation on spirality & shrinkagePresentation on spirality & shrinkage
Presentation on spirality & shrinkageSwapnil Ekramul
 
Parameter of finishing process in knit dyeing
Parameter of finishing process in knit dyeingParameter of finishing process in knit dyeing
Parameter of finishing process in knit dyeingMd. Mazadul Hasan Shishir
 
Warping machine in weaving mill.
Warping machine in weaving mill.Warping machine in weaving mill.
Warping machine in weaving mill.Student U
 
Yarn unevenness and its empact on quality
Yarn unevenness and its empact on qualityYarn unevenness and its empact on quality
Yarn unevenness and its empact on qualityArNesto WaHid
 
knitting Machine parts, knittging action & cam system
knitting Machine parts, knittging action & cam systemknitting Machine parts, knittging action & cam system
knitting Machine parts, knittging action & cam systemMahbubay Rabbani Mim
 
Feeder stripe, Engineering stripe and Auto stripe mechanism
Feeder stripe, Engineering stripe and Auto stripe mechanismFeeder stripe, Engineering stripe and Auto stripe mechanism
Feeder stripe, Engineering stripe and Auto stripe mechanismAzmir Latif Beg
 
Presentation on Weft Knitting Machine (Single Jersey, Rib & Interlock)
Presentation on Weft Knitting Machine (Single Jersey, Rib & Interlock)Presentation on Weft Knitting Machine (Single Jersey, Rib & Interlock)
Presentation on Weft Knitting Machine (Single Jersey, Rib & Interlock)Shawan Roy
 
Calculations in weft knitting machines
Calculations in weft knitting machinesCalculations in weft knitting machines
Calculations in weft knitting machinesMurali Krishnan
 

What's hot (20)

Presentation on spirality & shrinkage
Presentation on spirality & shrinkagePresentation on spirality & shrinkage
Presentation on spirality & shrinkage
 
Fabric Spreading
Fabric SpreadingFabric Spreading
Fabric Spreading
 
Knitting calculation
Knitting calculationKnitting calculation
Knitting calculation
 
Knitted fabric faults and their remedies
Knitted fabric faults and their remediesKnitted fabric faults and their remedies
Knitted fabric faults and their remedies
 
Parameter of finishing process in knit dyeing
Parameter of finishing process in knit dyeingParameter of finishing process in knit dyeing
Parameter of finishing process in knit dyeing
 
Beating up
Beating upBeating up
Beating up
 
Spinning parameters
Spinning  parameters   Spinning  parameters
Spinning parameters
 
Warping machine in weaving mill.
Warping machine in weaving mill.Warping machine in weaving mill.
Warping machine in weaving mill.
 
Basic informartion of knitting
Basic informartion of knittingBasic informartion of knitting
Basic informartion of knitting
 
Yarn unevenness and its empact on quality
Yarn unevenness and its empact on qualityYarn unevenness and its empact on quality
Yarn unevenness and its empact on quality
 
Flatlock stitches and its Mechanisms
Flatlock stitches and its MechanismsFlatlock stitches and its Mechanisms
Flatlock stitches and its Mechanisms
 
Rapier Loom
Rapier LoomRapier Loom
Rapier Loom
 
Study on knitting elements of circular knitting machine (butex)
Study on knitting elements of circular knitting machine (butex)Study on knitting elements of circular knitting machine (butex)
Study on knitting elements of circular knitting machine (butex)
 
Air jet and Rapier loom
Air jet and Rapier loomAir jet and Rapier loom
Air jet and Rapier loom
 
knitting Machine parts, knittging action & cam system
knitting Machine parts, knittging action & cam systemknitting Machine parts, knittging action & cam system
knitting Machine parts, knittging action & cam system
 
Feeder stripe, Engineering stripe and Auto stripe mechanism
Feeder stripe, Engineering stripe and Auto stripe mechanismFeeder stripe, Engineering stripe and Auto stripe mechanism
Feeder stripe, Engineering stripe and Auto stripe mechanism
 
Presentation on Weft Knitting Machine (Single Jersey, Rib & Interlock)
Presentation on Weft Knitting Machine (Single Jersey, Rib & Interlock)Presentation on Weft Knitting Machine (Single Jersey, Rib & Interlock)
Presentation on Weft Knitting Machine (Single Jersey, Rib & Interlock)
 
Yarn Manufacturing Process : Drawframe
Yarn Manufacturing Process : DrawframeYarn Manufacturing Process : Drawframe
Yarn Manufacturing Process : Drawframe
 
Count calculation
Count calculationCount calculation
Count calculation
 
Calculations in weft knitting machines
Calculations in weft knitting machinesCalculations in weft knitting machines
Calculations in weft knitting machines
 

Similar to Effect of machine parameters on knit fabric specifications

Handle of cotton: wool knitted khadi fabric
Handle of cotton: wool knitted khadi fabricHandle of cotton: wool knitted khadi fabric
Handle of cotton: wool knitted khadi fabriciosrjce
 
Effect of Stitch Length on Different Properties of Plain Single Jersey Fabric
Effect of Stitch Length on Different Properties of Plain Single Jersey FabricEffect of Stitch Length on Different Properties of Plain Single Jersey Fabric
Effect of Stitch Length on Different Properties of Plain Single Jersey FabricIJMERJOURNAL
 
Effect of wale wise increasing of tuck and miss loops on bursting strength of...
Effect of wale wise increasing of tuck and miss loops on bursting strength of...Effect of wale wise increasing of tuck and miss loops on bursting strength of...
Effect of wale wise increasing of tuck and miss loops on bursting strength of...eSAT Publishing House
 
Effect of wale wise increasing of tuck and miss loops on bursting strength of...
Effect of wale wise increasing of tuck and miss loops on bursting strength of...Effect of wale wise increasing of tuck and miss loops on bursting strength of...
Effect of wale wise increasing of tuck and miss loops on bursting strength of...eSAT Journals
 
Effect of stitch length on Lycra And Without Lycra plain Single jersey fabric...
Effect of stitch length on Lycra And Without Lycra plain Single jersey fabric...Effect of stitch length on Lycra And Without Lycra plain Single jersey fabric...
Effect of stitch length on Lycra And Without Lycra plain Single jersey fabric...Md. Mazadul Hasan Shishir
 
Investigation on the Changes of Areal Density of Knit Fabric with Stitch Leng...
Investigation on the Changes of Areal Density of Knit Fabric with Stitch Leng...Investigation on the Changes of Areal Density of Knit Fabric with Stitch Leng...
Investigation on the Changes of Areal Density of Knit Fabric with Stitch Leng...iosrjce
 
Project on spirality SUPERVISING TEACHER Md. Emdad Sarker Lecturer, Departme...
Project on spirality SUPERVISING TEACHER  Md. Emdad Sarker Lecturer, Departme...Project on spirality SUPERVISING TEACHER  Md. Emdad Sarker Lecturer, Departme...
Project on spirality SUPERVISING TEACHER Md. Emdad Sarker Lecturer, Departme...Bangladesh University of Textiles (BUTEX)
 
Effect of count and stitch length on spirality of single jersey knit fabric
Effect of count and stitch length on spirality of single jersey knit fabricEffect of count and stitch length on spirality of single jersey knit fabric
Effect of count and stitch length on spirality of single jersey knit fabriceSAT Publishing House
 
Effect of count and stitch length on spirality of single jersey knit fabric
Effect of count and stitch length on spirality of single jersey knit fabricEffect of count and stitch length on spirality of single jersey knit fabric
Effect of count and stitch length on spirality of single jersey knit fabriceSAT Journals
 
Weft knitting machine & parameters of weft knitted fabric
Weft knitting machine & parameters of weft knitted fabricWeft knitting machine & parameters of weft knitted fabric
Weft knitting machine & parameters of weft knitted fabricAzmir Latif Beg
 
EFFECT OF TM AND LOOP LENGTH ON DRAPE CO-EFFICIENT OF SINGLE JERSEY KNITTED F...
EFFECT OF TM AND LOOP LENGTH ON DRAPE CO-EFFICIENT OF SINGLE JERSEY KNITTED F...EFFECT OF TM AND LOOP LENGTH ON DRAPE CO-EFFICIENT OF SINGLE JERSEY KNITTED F...
EFFECT OF TM AND LOOP LENGTH ON DRAPE CO-EFFICIENT OF SINGLE JERSEY KNITTED F...IAEME Publication
 
Effect of tm and loop length on drape co efficient of single jersey knitted f...
Effect of tm and loop length on drape co efficient of single jersey knitted f...Effect of tm and loop length on drape co efficient of single jersey knitted f...
Effect of tm and loop length on drape co efficient of single jersey knitted f...IAEME Publication
 
Industrial Attachment of Jinnat apparels ltd
Industrial Attachment of Jinnat apparels ltdIndustrial Attachment of Jinnat apparels ltd
Industrial Attachment of Jinnat apparels ltdMd. Mazadul Hasan Shishir
 

Similar to Effect of machine parameters on knit fabric specifications (20)

Effect of stitch length on physical and mechanical properties of single jerse...
Effect of stitch length on physical and mechanical properties of single jerse...Effect of stitch length on physical and mechanical properties of single jerse...
Effect of stitch length on physical and mechanical properties of single jerse...
 
Count variation Effect on physical properties of Single jersey Cotton-elastan...
Count variation Effect on physical properties of Single jersey Cotton-elastan...Count variation Effect on physical properties of Single jersey Cotton-elastan...
Count variation Effect on physical properties of Single jersey Cotton-elastan...
 
Handle of cotton: wool knitted khadi fabric
Handle of cotton: wool knitted khadi fabricHandle of cotton: wool knitted khadi fabric
Handle of cotton: wool knitted khadi fabric
 
Effect of Stitch Length on Different Properties of Plain Single Jersey Fabric
Effect of Stitch Length on Different Properties of Plain Single Jersey FabricEffect of Stitch Length on Different Properties of Plain Single Jersey Fabric
Effect of Stitch Length on Different Properties of Plain Single Jersey Fabric
 
Effect of gauge variation of circular knitting machine on physical and mechan...
Effect of gauge variation of circular knitting machine on physical and mechan...Effect of gauge variation of circular knitting machine on physical and mechan...
Effect of gauge variation of circular knitting machine on physical and mechan...
 
Effect of wale wise increasing of tuck and miss loops on bursting strength of...
Effect of wale wise increasing of tuck and miss loops on bursting strength of...Effect of wale wise increasing of tuck and miss loops on bursting strength of...
Effect of wale wise increasing of tuck and miss loops on bursting strength of...
 
Effect of wale wise increasing of tuck and miss loops on bursting strength of...
Effect of wale wise increasing of tuck and miss loops on bursting strength of...Effect of wale wise increasing of tuck and miss loops on bursting strength of...
Effect of wale wise increasing of tuck and miss loops on bursting strength of...
 
Effect of stitch length on Lycra And Without Lycra plain Single jersey fabric...
Effect of stitch length on Lycra And Without Lycra plain Single jersey fabric...Effect of stitch length on Lycra And Without Lycra plain Single jersey fabric...
Effect of stitch length on Lycra And Without Lycra plain Single jersey fabric...
 
Investigation on the Changes of Areal Density of Knit Fabric with Stitch Leng...
Investigation on the Changes of Areal Density of Knit Fabric with Stitch Leng...Investigation on the Changes of Areal Density of Knit Fabric with Stitch Leng...
Investigation on the Changes of Areal Density of Knit Fabric with Stitch Leng...
 
yarn count in friction spinning
yarn count in friction spinningyarn count in friction spinning
yarn count in friction spinning
 
Project on spirality SUPERVISING TEACHER Md. Emdad Sarker Lecturer, Departme...
Project on spirality SUPERVISING TEACHER  Md. Emdad Sarker Lecturer, Departme...Project on spirality SUPERVISING TEACHER  Md. Emdad Sarker Lecturer, Departme...
Project on spirality SUPERVISING TEACHER Md. Emdad Sarker Lecturer, Departme...
 
Effect of count and stitch length on spirality of single jersey knit fabric
Effect of count and stitch length on spirality of single jersey knit fabricEffect of count and stitch length on spirality of single jersey knit fabric
Effect of count and stitch length on spirality of single jersey knit fabric
 
Effect of count and stitch length on spirality of single jersey knit fabric
Effect of count and stitch length on spirality of single jersey knit fabricEffect of count and stitch length on spirality of single jersey knit fabric
Effect of count and stitch length on spirality of single jersey knit fabric
 
Weft knitting machine & parameters of weft knitted fabric
Weft knitting machine & parameters of weft knitted fabricWeft knitting machine & parameters of weft knitted fabric
Weft knitting machine & parameters of weft knitted fabric
 
EFFECT OF TM AND LOOP LENGTH ON DRAPE CO-EFFICIENT OF SINGLE JERSEY KNITTED F...
EFFECT OF TM AND LOOP LENGTH ON DRAPE CO-EFFICIENT OF SINGLE JERSEY KNITTED F...EFFECT OF TM AND LOOP LENGTH ON DRAPE CO-EFFICIENT OF SINGLE JERSEY KNITTED F...
EFFECT OF TM AND LOOP LENGTH ON DRAPE CO-EFFICIENT OF SINGLE JERSEY KNITTED F...
 
Effect of tm and loop length on drape co efficient of single jersey knitted f...
Effect of tm and loop length on drape co efficient of single jersey knitted f...Effect of tm and loop length on drape co efficient of single jersey knitted f...
Effect of tm and loop length on drape co efficient of single jersey knitted f...
 
Evaluation of physico mechanical properties of 1×1 interlock cotton knitted f...
Evaluation of physico mechanical properties of 1×1 interlock cotton knitted f...Evaluation of physico mechanical properties of 1×1 interlock cotton knitted f...
Evaluation of physico mechanical properties of 1×1 interlock cotton knitted f...
 
A04460107
A04460107A04460107
A04460107
 
Efficiency losses calculation and identify causes of losses of circular knitt...
Efficiency losses calculation and identify causes of losses of circular knitt...Efficiency losses calculation and identify causes of losses of circular knitt...
Efficiency losses calculation and identify causes of losses of circular knitt...
 
Industrial Attachment of Jinnat apparels ltd
Industrial Attachment of Jinnat apparels ltdIndustrial Attachment of Jinnat apparels ltd
Industrial Attachment of Jinnat apparels ltd
 

Recently uploaded

Basic Principle of Electrochemical Sensor
Basic Principle of  Electrochemical SensorBasic Principle of  Electrochemical Sensor
Basic Principle of Electrochemical SensorTanvir Moin
 
Guardians and Glitches: Navigating the Duality of Gen AI in AppSec
Guardians and Glitches: Navigating the Duality of Gen AI in AppSecGuardians and Glitches: Navigating the Duality of Gen AI in AppSec
Guardians and Glitches: Navigating the Duality of Gen AI in AppSecTrupti Shiralkar, CISSP
 
IT3401-WEB ESSENTIALS PRESENTATIONS.pptx
IT3401-WEB ESSENTIALS PRESENTATIONS.pptxIT3401-WEB ESSENTIALS PRESENTATIONS.pptx
IT3401-WEB ESSENTIALS PRESENTATIONS.pptxSAJITHABANUS
 
Technology Features of Apollo HDD Machine, Its Technical Specification with C...
Technology Features of Apollo HDD Machine, Its Technical Specification with C...Technology Features of Apollo HDD Machine, Its Technical Specification with C...
Technology Features of Apollo HDD Machine, Its Technical Specification with C...Apollo Techno Industries Pvt Ltd
 
nvidia AI-gtc 2024 partial slide deck.pptx
nvidia AI-gtc 2024 partial slide deck.pptxnvidia AI-gtc 2024 partial slide deck.pptx
nvidia AI-gtc 2024 partial slide deck.pptxjasonsedano2
 
CSR Managerial Round Questions and answers.pptx
CSR Managerial Round Questions and answers.pptxCSR Managerial Round Questions and answers.pptx
CSR Managerial Round Questions and answers.pptxssusera0771e
 
Lecture 1: Basics of trigonometry (surveying)
Lecture 1: Basics of trigonometry (surveying)Lecture 1: Basics of trigonometry (surveying)
Lecture 1: Basics of trigonometry (surveying)Bahzad5
 
Phase noise transfer functions.pptx
Phase noise transfer      functions.pptxPhase noise transfer      functions.pptx
Phase noise transfer functions.pptxSaiGouthamSunkara
 
GENERAL CONDITIONS FOR CONTRACTS OF CIVIL ENGINEERING WORKS
GENERAL CONDITIONS  FOR  CONTRACTS OF CIVIL ENGINEERING WORKS GENERAL CONDITIONS  FOR  CONTRACTS OF CIVIL ENGINEERING WORKS
GENERAL CONDITIONS FOR CONTRACTS OF CIVIL ENGINEERING WORKS Bahzad5
 
Mohs Scale of Hardness, Hardness Scale.pptx
Mohs Scale of Hardness, Hardness Scale.pptxMohs Scale of Hardness, Hardness Scale.pptx
Mohs Scale of Hardness, Hardness Scale.pptxKISHAN KUMAR
 
UNIT4_ESD_wfffffggggggggggggith_ARM.pptx
UNIT4_ESD_wfffffggggggggggggith_ARM.pptxUNIT4_ESD_wfffffggggggggggggith_ARM.pptx
UNIT4_ESD_wfffffggggggggggggith_ARM.pptxrealme6igamerr
 
Popular-NO1 Kala Jadu Expert Specialist In Germany Kala Jadu Expert Specialis...
Popular-NO1 Kala Jadu Expert Specialist In Germany Kala Jadu Expert Specialis...Popular-NO1 Kala Jadu Expert Specialist In Germany Kala Jadu Expert Specialis...
Popular-NO1 Kala Jadu Expert Specialist In Germany Kala Jadu Expert Specialis...Amil baba
 
Quasi-Stochastic Approximation: Algorithm Design Principles with Applications...
Quasi-Stochastic Approximation: Algorithm Design Principles with Applications...Quasi-Stochastic Approximation: Algorithm Design Principles with Applications...
Quasi-Stochastic Approximation: Algorithm Design Principles with Applications...Sean Meyn
 
Carbohydrates principles of biochemistry
Carbohydrates principles of biochemistryCarbohydrates principles of biochemistry
Carbohydrates principles of biochemistryKomakeTature
 
SUMMER TRAINING REPORT ON BUILDING CONSTRUCTION.docx
SUMMER TRAINING REPORT ON BUILDING CONSTRUCTION.docxSUMMER TRAINING REPORT ON BUILDING CONSTRUCTION.docx
SUMMER TRAINING REPORT ON BUILDING CONSTRUCTION.docxNaveenVerma126
 
Summer training report on BUILDING CONSTRUCTION for DIPLOMA Students.pdf
Summer training report on BUILDING CONSTRUCTION for DIPLOMA Students.pdfSummer training report on BUILDING CONSTRUCTION for DIPLOMA Students.pdf
Summer training report on BUILDING CONSTRUCTION for DIPLOMA Students.pdfNaveenVerma126
 
Power System electrical and electronics .pptx
Power System electrical and electronics .pptxPower System electrical and electronics .pptx
Power System electrical and electronics .pptxMUKULKUMAR210
 
cloud computing notes for anna university syllabus
cloud computing notes for anna university syllabuscloud computing notes for anna university syllabus
cloud computing notes for anna university syllabusViolet Violet
 

Recently uploaded (20)

Basic Principle of Electrochemical Sensor
Basic Principle of  Electrochemical SensorBasic Principle of  Electrochemical Sensor
Basic Principle of Electrochemical Sensor
 
Guardians and Glitches: Navigating the Duality of Gen AI in AppSec
Guardians and Glitches: Navigating the Duality of Gen AI in AppSecGuardians and Glitches: Navigating the Duality of Gen AI in AppSec
Guardians and Glitches: Navigating the Duality of Gen AI in AppSec
 
IT3401-WEB ESSENTIALS PRESENTATIONS.pptx
IT3401-WEB ESSENTIALS PRESENTATIONS.pptxIT3401-WEB ESSENTIALS PRESENTATIONS.pptx
IT3401-WEB ESSENTIALS PRESENTATIONS.pptx
 
Technology Features of Apollo HDD Machine, Its Technical Specification with C...
Technology Features of Apollo HDD Machine, Its Technical Specification with C...Technology Features of Apollo HDD Machine, Its Technical Specification with C...
Technology Features of Apollo HDD Machine, Its Technical Specification with C...
 
nvidia AI-gtc 2024 partial slide deck.pptx
nvidia AI-gtc 2024 partial slide deck.pptxnvidia AI-gtc 2024 partial slide deck.pptx
nvidia AI-gtc 2024 partial slide deck.pptx
 
CSR Managerial Round Questions and answers.pptx
CSR Managerial Round Questions and answers.pptxCSR Managerial Round Questions and answers.pptx
CSR Managerial Round Questions and answers.pptx
 
Lecture 1: Basics of trigonometry (surveying)
Lecture 1: Basics of trigonometry (surveying)Lecture 1: Basics of trigonometry (surveying)
Lecture 1: Basics of trigonometry (surveying)
 
Phase noise transfer functions.pptx
Phase noise transfer      functions.pptxPhase noise transfer      functions.pptx
Phase noise transfer functions.pptx
 
GENERAL CONDITIONS FOR CONTRACTS OF CIVIL ENGINEERING WORKS
GENERAL CONDITIONS  FOR  CONTRACTS OF CIVIL ENGINEERING WORKS GENERAL CONDITIONS  FOR  CONTRACTS OF CIVIL ENGINEERING WORKS
GENERAL CONDITIONS FOR CONTRACTS OF CIVIL ENGINEERING WORKS
 
Mohs Scale of Hardness, Hardness Scale.pptx
Mohs Scale of Hardness, Hardness Scale.pptxMohs Scale of Hardness, Hardness Scale.pptx
Mohs Scale of Hardness, Hardness Scale.pptx
 
UNIT4_ESD_wfffffggggggggggggith_ARM.pptx
UNIT4_ESD_wfffffggggggggggggith_ARM.pptxUNIT4_ESD_wfffffggggggggggggith_ARM.pptx
UNIT4_ESD_wfffffggggggggggggith_ARM.pptx
 
Lecture 2 .pdf
Lecture 2                           .pdfLecture 2                           .pdf
Lecture 2 .pdf
 
Popular-NO1 Kala Jadu Expert Specialist In Germany Kala Jadu Expert Specialis...
Popular-NO1 Kala Jadu Expert Specialist In Germany Kala Jadu Expert Specialis...Popular-NO1 Kala Jadu Expert Specialist In Germany Kala Jadu Expert Specialis...
Popular-NO1 Kala Jadu Expert Specialist In Germany Kala Jadu Expert Specialis...
 
Lecture 4 .pdf
Lecture 4                              .pdfLecture 4                              .pdf
Lecture 4 .pdf
 
Quasi-Stochastic Approximation: Algorithm Design Principles with Applications...
Quasi-Stochastic Approximation: Algorithm Design Principles with Applications...Quasi-Stochastic Approximation: Algorithm Design Principles with Applications...
Quasi-Stochastic Approximation: Algorithm Design Principles with Applications...
 
Carbohydrates principles of biochemistry
Carbohydrates principles of biochemistryCarbohydrates principles of biochemistry
Carbohydrates principles of biochemistry
 
SUMMER TRAINING REPORT ON BUILDING CONSTRUCTION.docx
SUMMER TRAINING REPORT ON BUILDING CONSTRUCTION.docxSUMMER TRAINING REPORT ON BUILDING CONSTRUCTION.docx
SUMMER TRAINING REPORT ON BUILDING CONSTRUCTION.docx
 
Summer training report on BUILDING CONSTRUCTION for DIPLOMA Students.pdf
Summer training report on BUILDING CONSTRUCTION for DIPLOMA Students.pdfSummer training report on BUILDING CONSTRUCTION for DIPLOMA Students.pdf
Summer training report on BUILDING CONSTRUCTION for DIPLOMA Students.pdf
 
Power System electrical and electronics .pptx
Power System electrical and electronics .pptxPower System electrical and electronics .pptx
Power System electrical and electronics .pptx
 
cloud computing notes for anna university syllabus
cloud computing notes for anna university syllabuscloud computing notes for anna university syllabus
cloud computing notes for anna university syllabus
 

Effect of machine parameters on knit fabric specifications

  • 1. DUET Journal Vol. 1, Issue 3, June 2012 Dhaka University of Engineering & Technology, Gazipur 12 Effect of Machine Parameters on Knit Fabric Specifications Shekh Md Mamun Kabir1 and Mohammad Zakaria2 1 Lecturer, Dept. of Wet Processing Engineering, Bangladesh University of Textiles, Tejgaon, Dhaka-1208, Bangladesh 2 Lecturer, Dept of Textile Engineering, Dhaka University of Engineering & Technology, Gazipur, Bangladesh E-mail: zakariate@duet.ac.bd ABSTRACT Cotton knit fabrics of yarn count 16Ne, 20Ne, 26Ne, 30Ne, 40Ne and 120-200 GSM for plain, 165-280 GSM for rib, 205-250 GSM for interlock were investigated with different machine parameters. The investigation developed a way so that it can be visualized or can forecast the resulting fabric specification with required configuration. The research emphasized on the adjustable points on which fabric GSM, stitch length, fabric width, and compactness directly or indirectly depends. It can be approached that the yarn count increases with the machine gauge. At different ranges of GSM the variation of the finished fabric diameter with the machine diameter is different. From a constant, VDQ number can be obtained for a particular stitch length and fabric design. Key Words: GSM, Stitch length, Yarn count, Fabric Width, Machine gauge, Needle. 1. INTRODUCTION Fabric or cloth is a flexible artificial material that is made by a network of natural or artificial fibers. The example is thread or yarn which is formed by weaving or knitting or felting. So, fabric is a manufactured assembly of fibers and/or yarns that has substantial surface area in relation to its thickness and sufficient cohesion to give the assembly useful mechanical strength. There are three principal methods of mechanically manipulating yarn into textile fabrics-interlacing, intertwining and interloping. All three methods have evolved from hand manipulated techniques through their application or primitive frames into sophisticated manufacturing operations on automatic machinery. Knitted fabric specification which are related to knitted fabric production. In case of knitted fabric specification GSM, stitch length is mainly considered. The common problem of all industries is to produce knitted fabrics of required GSM. Other specification like fabric width, thickness is generally maintained in industries by previous data sheet. So, problem occurs when an order comes which never produced in previous. The goal of our project is to find out easy process or method to take decision about the selection of yarn count, loop length, machine gauge and diameter for producing single jersey, rib and interlock fabric of ordered GSM. Many research works were carried out on the behavior of fabric with machines specifications both experimentally & numerically all over the world from different angle of views. Iyer I., Mammel B., Schach J. [4], Ghazi Saeidi R., Latifi M., Shaikhzadeh Najar S., and Ghazi Saeidi A. [5], Shady E., Gowayed Y., Abouiiana M., Youssef S. and Pastore C [6] are some of the researchers who worked on according to the “Circular knitting: technology process structure yarn quality”, "Computer Vision-Aided Fabric Inspection System for On-Circular Knitting Machine", “Detection and Classification of Defects in Knitted Fabric Structures”. Although a variety of research work carried out from different perspective but the investigation of fabric specification with the change of machine parameters is relatively limited. 2. GENERAL DISCUSSION 2.1. Plain Structure Plain is the base structure of ladies‟ hosiery, fully fashioned knitwear and single-jersey fabrics. Its use in ladies‟ suiting is known as the „Jersey Lily‟ (see in Fig.1). Other names for plain include stockinet, whilst in the USA the term „shaker stitch‟ is applied to it when knitted in a coarse gauge of about 31– 32 needles Per inch (25mm). 2.2. Rib Structure The simplest rib fabric is 1 X 1 rib. The first rib frame was invented by Jedediah Strutt of Derby in 1755, which used a second set of needles to pick up and knit the sinker loops of the first set. It is now normally knitted with two sets of latch needles. 1 X 1 rib is production of by two sets of needles being alternately set or gated between each other. Relaxed 1 X 1 rib is theoretically twice the thickness and half the width of an equivalent plain fabric, but it has twice as much width-wise recoverable stretch. In practice, 1 X 1 rib normally relaxes by approximately 30 percent compared with its knitting width (see Fig. 2). 2.3. Interlock Structure Figure 3 shows that interlock was knitted almost solely in cotton on 20 gauge (needles per inch) machines for
  • 2. DUET Journal Vol. 1, Issue 3, June 2012 Dhaka University of Engineering & Technology, Gazipur 13 underwear, a typical weight being 5oz per square yard (170 g per Square meter) using 1/40‟s s cotton, but from the 1950s onwards, 18 gauge machines were developed for knitting double-jersey for semi-tailored suiting because the open-width fabric could be finished on existing equipment. As the machines became more versatile in their capabilities, the range of structures became greater. Fig. 1: Structure of single jersey knitted fabric. Fig. 2: Structure of 1X1 Rib fabric. Fig. 3: Structure of interlock fabric 2.4. Circular Knitting Machine Most single-jersey fabric is produced on circular machines whose latch needle cylinder and sinker ring revolve through the stationary knitting cam systems that, together with their yarn feeders, are situated at regular intervals around the circumference of the cylinder. The yarns is supplied from cones, placed either on an integral overhead bobbin stand or on a free-standing creel, through tensioners, stop motions and guide eyes down to the yarn feeder guides (see Fig. 4). Fig. 4: Circular knitting machine Machine Parts: 1. Yarn feeder guide, 2. Latch needle, 3. Holding-down sinker, 4. Needle cylinder, 5. Cylinder driving wheel. 6. Cylinder driving gear, 7. Sinker-operating cams, 8. Sinker cam-cap, 9. Sinker trick ring, 10. Needle-retaining spring, 11. Needle-operating cams, 12. Cam-box, 13. Cam- plate, 14. Head plate, 15. Cylinder driving pinion attached to the main drive shaft. 3. MACHINE PARAMETERS 1. Machine gauge. 2. Machine Diameter. 3. V.D.Q Pulley 4. Needle gauge. 3.1. Machine Gauge No. of needles per inch present in a needle bed of a knitting machine is called machine gauge for that knitting machine. Selection of machine gauge depends upon the following: Yarn count, Fibre type, Yarn twist, Yarn finished. General practices of machine gauge and yarn count in different industries in Bangladesh are shown in Tables- 1, 2 & 3. From this study of the data collected from the different factories we can see that the gauge increases with the English count (Ne) of the yarn. 3.2. Machine Diameter Machine diameter is mainly diameter of m/c cylinder. It is important for fabric width. Only diameter does not fetermi- Cylinder loops Dial loops Course
  • 3. DUET Journal Vol. 1, Issue 3, June 2012 Dhaka University of Engineering & Technology, Gazipur 14 Table 1: Typical Selection of M/C Gauge for Different Count Yarn: Gauge Count (Ne) Low High Limit 32 32/1 46/1 60/1 28 30/1 46/1 60/1 24 20/1 46/1 50/1 22 20/1 40/1 20 20/1 40/1 18 20/1 40/1 16 10/1 24/1 Table 2: Relation between machine gauge and yarn count (Single jersey): S/J M/C gauge Count (Ne) M/C gauge Count (Ne) 18 30 24 30 20 26 24 30 22 20 24 40 24 30 24 28 24 34 24 28 24 28 24 30 24 30 24 34 24 30 24 34 24 30 24 26 24 30 28 40 24 34 28 50 Table 3: Relation between machine gauge and yarn count (1X1 Rib & Interlock) 1X1 Rib Interlock M/C gauge Count (Ne) M/C gauge Count (Ne) 18 30 24 46 16 28 24 46 16 30 24 40 18 26 24 40 18 24 24 34 18 28 24 36 16 30 24 36 ne the fabric width. It also needs machine gauge and wales space which is depends upon yarn count and loop length (see Tables- 4, 5, 6 & Fig.5, 6, 7). Tables show that same machine with the specific diameter can produce fabrics with different width. 3.3. V.D.Q (variable dia. for quality) Pulley V.D.Q pulley is a pulley which drives several smaller pulleys by a tooted belt. These smaller pulleys are at the driven position and drive a clutch device which engages with the yarn wheel. By varying the dia of the V.D.Q pulley, which is at the driver position, the amount of the yarn feeding can be controlled. This variation in the yarn feeding varies the stitch length and the G.S.M (see Fig.8). V.D.Q a Stitch length (when needle is same) V.D.Q a No. of Needle (when stitch is same)  From the above two expression we get, V.D.Q a Stitch length X Needle Constant, Kv = This constant Kv varies with the diameter of the machine, type of the machine (single or double jersey), different brand of machines. [Shown in Table-7] Table 4: Relationship between M/C diameter and fabric diameter (single jersey) M/C Finished dia. of fabric (inch) M/C Dia. (inch) M/C Gauge Count- 20/1 Ne & Fin GSM- 190- 200 Count -24/1 Ne & Fin GSM- 175- 185 Count -26/1 Ne & Fin GSM- 155- 165 Count -40/1 Ne & Fin GSM- 110- 120 20 24 23.2 21.7 20.8 16.1 20 20 19.6 18.4 18 18 24 24 27.4 25.7 24.6 19.1 28 24 32.6 30.8 29.3 22.7 30 24 35 32.8 31.5 24.4 36 24 42 39.6 38 29.4 38 24 44.5 41.7 40 31 40 24 46.7 43.8 42 32.5 42 24 48.9 45.8 44 34.1 3.4. Needle Gauge Thickness of needle express by the needle gauge. It is important for selection of machine gauge. Needle gauge is Fig. 5: Change of fabric diameter with machine diameter with respect to GSM.
  • 4. DUET Journal Vol. 1, Issue 3, June 2012 Dhaka University of Engineering & Technology, Gazipur 15 differing for the different needle types and different Brand (see Fig. 9). According to the result of study Machine gauge is 24 then Needle thickness is 0.52mm and Machine gauge is 28 then Needle thickness is 0.41mm. Fig. 6: Change the fabric diameter with M/C diameter with respect to GSM Fig. 7: Change the fabric diameter with M/C diameter with respect to GSM Table 5: Relationship between M/C diameter and fabric width (1X1 Rib) 1X1 Rib M/C Finished dia. of fabric (inch) M/C Dia. (inch) M/C Gauge Count- 20/1 Ne & Fin GSM- 270- 280 Count- 24/1 Ne & Fin GSM- 230- 240 Count- 26/1 Ne & Fin GSM- 215- 225 Count- 40/1 Ne & Fin GSM- 155- 165 30 18 34 32 31 26 36 18 40 38.5 37 32 40 18 44 43 41.5 36 42 18 46 45 43.5 38 Table 6: Relationship between M/C diameter and fabric width (Interlock). Interlock M/C Finished dia. of fabric (inch) M/C Dia. (inch) M/C Gauge Count- 30/1 Ne & Fin GSM- 250-260 Count- 34/1 Ne & Fin GSM- 225-240 Count- 40/1 Ne & Fin GSM- 205-215 30 22 26 26.5 29 36 22 31 34 35 38 22 33 36 37 Fig. 8: V.D.Q pulley. 4. RESULTS AND DISCUSSION We have got some result from different experiment of various fabric parameters. From the research we have found some relation among the fabric Specifications with the machine parameters. The result is based on the data collected from the factories. 4.1. Selection of the gauge corresponding to the yarn count In the industry there is a range of yarn counts that a particular gauge of a machine can accommodate. They follow the range to select the precise gauge. Now we have analyzed the data to see the variations of yarn count with machine gauge. The table is as follow: [Table-8] Usually the yarn count increases with the machine gauge. 4.2. Relation between M/C dia and fabric dia The fabric dia is the width of the fabric in the tubular form. The finished fabric dia varies with the M/C dia. At different ranges of GSM the variation of the finished fabric dia with the M/C dia is different. Different fabric structures show different variation. But same structure follows a particular path of variation.
  • 5. DUET Journal Vol. 1, Issue 3, June 2012 Dhaka University of Engineering & Technology, Gazipur 16 Fig-9: Needle in knitting machine. 4.3. V.D.Q pulley constant There is a relation of V.D.Q number, stitch length and needle number. It is, Constant, Kv = This constant is dependent mainly on the M/C. Different machine type, brand; diameter can vary the value of the constant. For a given machine the constant is same. For Single jersey fabric the V.D.Q pulley constant is 41.20825 & for Rib fabric the V.D.Q pulley constant is 68.76084. With these values a better selection of VDQ number can be obtained for a particular stitch length. Table 7: The value of Kv for different M/Cs M/C Dia. X Gauge No. of Needle V.D.Q Stitch Length (mm) Constant, Kv = S/J 1 23*24 1728 125 2.90 40.0896 2 23*24 1728 110 2.60 40.8436 3 24*24 1800 118 2.75 41.9499 Rib 1 38*24 2136X2 151 2.55 72.1430 2 38*24 2136X2 100 1.70 72.624 3 34*24 1920X2 102 2.55 78.336 Table 8: Relation of Machine gauge with yarn count Gauge Count (Ne) Low High Limit 32 32/1 46/1 60/1 28 30/1 46/1 60/1 24 20/1 46/1 50/1 22 20/1 40/1 20 20/1 40/1 18 20/1 40/1 16 10/1 24/1 5. CONCLUSIONS In this research we tried to analyze and observe different characteristics of the fabric specifications and machine parameters and to build up some relations among those. Most of the relations are building with the help of the data collected from the mills and factories. Some of the data are collected gained by experiments. In some cases our data was limited. The limitation of data may create some undesirable consequences. More data have to be collected to obtain a precise result. Experiments have to be done on the common fabrics and other fabrics to get a better understanding of the fabric specifications and machine parameters. REFERENCES [1] David J. Spencer, Knitting Technology by “Wood head Publishing Limited”- Third Edition. [2] Horrocks & Anand, Handbook of Technical Textile [3] Professor J E Mclintyre & P N Daniels, Textile Terms & Definitions published by “The Textile Instute”- Tenth Edition. [4] Iyer I., Mammel B., Schach J., Circular knitting: technology process structure yarn quality, Second Edition, Meisenbach GmbH, Bambreg, Germany, 1957. [5] Ghazi Saeidi R., Latifi M., Shaikhzadeh Najar S., and Ghazi Saeidi A., "Computer Vision-Aided Fabric Inspection System for On-Circular Knitting Machine" Textile Research Journal, 75(6), 492497, 2005. [6] Shady E., Gowayed Y., Abouiiana M., Youssef S. and Pastore C., Detection and Classification of Defects in Knitted Fabric Structures, Textile Research Journal, 76(4),295-300, 2006. [7] Abouiiana M., Youssef S., Pastore C. and Gowayed Y., Assessing structure changes in knits during processing, Textile Research Journal, 73(6), 535-540, 2003.