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Classification of Textiles
G.Santhana Krishnan
Training Division
The South India Textile Research
Association
Textile
• Textile is a process of converting fiber or
polymer into sheet.
• Earlier it was just full fill the basic needs of
human being
• To protect from weather
• Then converted into 3d structures
• Now it goes beyond in clothing science
(comfort, vanity, functional)
Manufacturing
technique

Application
areas

Type of raw
material

Finishing
Classification
of Textiles
Origin of Fibre
Two origins
Natural resources( non Thermo
Man Made fibers(thermo plastic, thermo set)
Natural fibers there are limitation in properties
and having more variations
Manmade fibers produced according to our wish
Natural fibers
According to the source
• Plants (seeds, stem, leaf & seed)
• Animal (Hair, saliva)
• Mineral (basalt)
Natural Fibers and Textiles
The Bast fiber
•
Animal Fibers

Different stages in
the silk mill: brushing
(drawing out the end of
the thread), extracting,
Man Made Fiber
Manmade Fibers
• 1. Regenerated Fibers
• 2. Synthetic fibers
• 3. High performance fibers
Regenerated Fibers
High Performance Fibers
YARNS

CONTINUOUS
FILAMENT

FLAT

SPUN-STAPLE

FIBRE LENGTH

TEXTURED

SHORT STAPLE

RING SPUN

BIOCOMPONENT

LONG STAPLE

ROTOR SPUN

FILM (TAPE OR
SPLIT)

YARN
CONSTRUCTION
(COMPOUND)

SPINNING
METHODS

TWISTLESS

WRAP SPUN

CORE SPUN

FOLDED OR
DOUBLED YARN

CABLED YARN

NOVELTY YARNS

METALLIC YARNS

FANCY YARNS
Different Spinning Systems
Roving

Siro
yarn
Ring Yarns
• Ring Yarns further classified as
1.Warp yarn
More even and Highly twisted for high strength
2.Hosiearnry
Soft bulkier yarn , Less twist
Non Conventional Spinning
Open End Rotor Spinning
Rotor

Yarn Package

Feed Roll
Transport
Air Channel

Sliver
Condenser

Sliver
Combing Roll
Trash

Feed Plate
Murata Air Jet Spinning
b
Murata Vortex
Fancy yarns
Fabric Manufacturing
Polymers
Fibers

Yarns

Woven Knitted Braided Non-woven
Fabrics
Application

It eliminates the yarn production process and
makes the fabric directly from fibers.
Manufacturing Technic
•
•
•
•

Woven fabrics
Knitted fabrics
Non woven fabrics
Braided structures
Production Rate
Fabric production
method
Weaving

Rate of fabric
production
1 m/min

Knitting

2 m/min

Nonwoven

100 m/min
Woven Fabric
Knitted Fabric (weft Knitting)
Warp Knitting
Braided Structures
Nonwoven Fabric
There are normally two steps for
making non-woven products.
1. Web formation
2. Bonding systems
Parallel-laid web from carded fibers
Cross Laid Web
Parellel laid /cross laid web
• Card webs are arranged one over another in a
parellel manner
• Strength is high in length wise direction than
cross direction
• By means of cross laper, delivery of web
turned to right angle
Air laid Web
Airlaid web wet laid
• Opened fibers are suspended in air and
deposited on a perforated sheet or drum
• Fibers dispersed in water and deposited on a
perforated felt and drain (Paper, Tea bag
technic)
Types of Bonding
– Needled felts
– Adhesives
– Heat bonding
– Stitch bonding
Needle Punching
Needle punching

Cross section of a needle-punched bonded
fabric.

Fibers held together by frictional
Contact between fibers
Adhesive Bonding
• The strength of fabric increased by adding
adhesive. Where strength is not enough
Thermal Adhessive
• Melt-bonding at selected points to give extra stability to a spun bonded
geotextile

• Spun bond and Melt blown systems
Stitch Bonding
.

Webs may also be given extra strength by stitching them
through with yarns.
Such structures are usually more flexible
Webs from filament
• It is possible to tangle filaments together to
form a web. Such webs are much stronger
than web made from staple fibres.
• The thermoplastic filaments are welded to
each other to form a strong fabric suitable for
curtains & tablecloths.
• Sometimes, the filaments are textured before
web formation. This allows greater
extensibility of the fabric in use.
Application of Textiles
• Domestic applications
• Shirting
• Intimate fabrics
• Vanity fabrics
• Technical Textiles
14 groups and 128 applications
Build tech
GEO synthetics
• Geogrids - reinforce slopes beneath the waste, walls, cover soils
above geomembranes;
• Geonets - in-plane drainage;
• Geomembranes – a barrier to liquids, gases and/or vapors and
landfill caps;
• Geocomposites –for separation, filtration or drainage;
• Geosynthetic clay liners (GCLs) - an infiltration/hydraulic barrier;
used also for mine rehabilitation, tunnels, secondary containment
• Geopipes - landfill applications to facilitate collection and rapid
drainage of the leachate to a sump and removal system;
• Geotextiles - filtration purpose or as cushion to protect the
geomembrane from puncture.
Marine application
Environmental Care
Finishing of Fabrics
• General surface finishes (mechanical finishes,
chemical finishes)

• Functional Finishes
Mechanical finishes
ffffff
Resistance to sunlight and UV degradation
Abrasion resistance
Reduced flammability
Soil resistance and easy cleanability
Resistant to microbes and other bacteria
Crease resistance
Softer handle and touch
Water proof (water proof & breathable)
ffffff
Controlled fragrance release
Anti Bacterial finish
camouflage

Non sensetivity by radors
Radiation Sheilding
Glow fabrics
Lotus leaf Effect
Smart Textiles
Incorporation of:
 Sensors and actuators
 MP3, GPS, GSM, Ipod, Iphone Ipad

 Energy harvesting systems
 Plastic electronics

Markets:
 Personal protective garments
 Medical systems
 Sports and Leisure
 Niches

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Classification of textiles