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HERBAL COSMETICS
PHARMACOGNOSY III
TONY JOSE & TONY JOSE
COSMETICS
According to D & C Act 1940
• Any article intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled or
sprayed on or introduced to or applied to any part of human
body for cleansing, beautifying, promoting, attractiveness or
altering the appearance and includes any article intended for
use as component of cosmetics.
• Included in this definition are products such as skin
moisturizers, perfumes, lipsticks, fingernail polishes, eye and
facial makeup preparations, shampoos, permanent waves, hair
colors, toothpastes, and deodorants, as well as any material
intended for use as a component of a cosmetic product
• If the safety of a cosmetic product has not been substantiated,
the product's label must read:
WARNING: “The safety of this product has not been
determined.“
Influence of Cosmetics –
• Wearing more makeup has been positively correlated with women’s
public self-consciousness (Miller & Cox, 1982)
•Cosmetics allow women to feel better about
themselves (Cash, 1987, 1988)
•Self-esteem / believe increases (Wright et al., 1970)
•Enhances social interactions (Miller & Cox, 1982)
INTRODUCTION
Herbal products are safe because they are
natural
can be harmful if consumed improperly or in
excessive amounts
•Cosmeceuticals are cosmetic products with
biologically active ingredients purporting to have
medical or drug‐like benefits. They ingredient
with medicinal properties that manifests
beneficial topical actions and provides protection
against degenerative skin conditions.
•Cosmeceuticals improve appearance by
delivering nutrients necessary for healthy skin.
ADVANTAGES of Herbal Cosmetics
They do not provoke allergic reaction & do not have negative
side effects.
They are easily incorporated with skin and hair.
With small quantity they are very effective as compared to
synthetic cosmetics.
Easily available & found in large variety & quantity.
DISADVANTAGES of Herbal Cosmetics
Herbal drugs have slower effects as compare to Allopathic dosage
form. Also it requires long term therapy.
They are difficult to hide taste and odor.
Manufacturing process are time consuming and complicated.
No pharmacopoeia defines any specific procedure or ingredients to be
used in any of herbal cosmetics.
TYPES ACCORDING TO SITE OF APPLICATION
Skin
Hair
Dentifrice / Dental Products
Nail
Eyes
HERBAL COSMETICS FOR SKIN
The herbal approach of proper skin care is principally based on three
essential steps.
Cleanse
Nourish
Moisture
Whatever may be the type of skin; these three steps are external care
of the skin to protect from the constant effect of environment, stress
and skins natural process of cell degradation decay.
Contd…..
Therefore in order to help the skin look young and radiant.
Exfoliation to remove dead skin cells.
Epidermal stimulation for new cell growth.
Antioxidant properties for cellular rejuvenation and repair.
Improve capillary blood flow.
Penetrating moisture and nutrients to replenish all layers of skin.
HERBAL COSMETICS FOR VARIOUS TYPES OF SKIN
FOR DRY SKIN
Example of Herbs:
Rubia Cardifolia (Manjista), Triphla, Tulsi,
Glycerihza glabra in sesame oil.
Fruit face mask:
Banana or avocado pulp.
FOR SENSITIVE SKIN
Example of Herbs:
curcuma longa, triphala, azadircta indica mustaka, nimba in
coconut oil.
Fruit face mask:
Banana or pineapple pulp.
FOR OILY SKIN
Example of Herbs:
Tulsi, idhora, jatiphata, nimba, terminalia arjuna, Triphla, curcuma
longa, mustaka in musterd oil , milk, sour milk, cream and butter
milk are used as gentle natural cleanser.
Fruit face mask:
Strawberry or papaya pulp.
TYPES OF HERBAL CREAMS
COLD CREAMS:
It is an emulsion in which the fat predominates, but
the cooling effect produced when it is applied to the
skin is due to skin evaporation of the water
contained.
Formula:
Almond oil 550 parts
White wax 145 parts
Borax 10 parts
Water 290 parts
Rose water 5 parts
Cont….
VANISHING CREAMS:
Vanishing creams are also called foundation creams because they
disappears when rubbed into skins.
Formula:
Stearic acid 130 parts
Borax crystals 28 parts
Sodium carbonate 12 parts
Water 740 parts
Rose oil 9 parts
Cont…
CLEANSING CREAMS:
A satisfactory cleansing cream is water in oil emulsion that melts at
temperature of body and spreads readily over the skin.
Formula: Chamomile cleansing creams
Chamomile flower 50 parts
Distilled water 500 parts
Lemon juice 5 parts
Sodium benzoate 2 parts
TYPES OF HERBAL LOTIONS
FACE LOTION:
These also called the bleaching lotions actually mask, rather than
lighten, the color of skin.
Like the whitening creams.
Formula:
Alum 10 parts
Zinc sulfate 1 parts
Glycerin 1 parts
Tincture of benzoin 1 parts
Essence of rose 30 drops
Herbs for Skin
TYPES OF HERBAL HAIR CARE PRODUCTS
HAIR OIL:
The hail oils used for dressings and nourishing the hairs and grace to
appearance of hasirs.
This preparations is generally used to increase the growth of hair and
remains healthy.
Hair oil should have following properties:
They should give luster to the hair.
Retain them soft and flowing.
Invigorate their growth.
Keep the brain cool.
Should not be sticky.
HAIR LOTION:
Hair lotion has a stimulating effect upon the hair follicles. They are
generally perfumed with oil of rosemary and others ascenes as it
posses a good stimulating property.
HAIR COLORANTS:
These are preparations which are used for the coloring of hthe
hairs. They enhances the attractiveness of gray hair. They are
applied externally on the hair with help of brush.
Cont…
SHAMPOO:
Shampoo is preparation of surfactant
in suitable form liquid, solid or
powder- which when used under
the condition specified will
remove surface grease, dirt, and
skin debris from the hair shaft and scalp without affecting adversely
the hair, scalp or health of the user.
QUALLITIES OF AN IDEAL HAIR PRODUCT
Protect the hair cuticle.
Cleans without stripping natural oils.
Replace lost protein, moisture, and nutrients.
Condition without weighing down the hair.
Even without porosity and prevent moisture loss.
Smooth abraded cuticle scales.
Prevent intense drying from environment.
Herbs for Hair
HERBALS USED IN DENTIFRICE
Definition.
Dentifrice are the preparations intended for use
with a toothbrush for the purpose of cleaning the
accessible surfaces of teeth.
They have been prepared in paste, powder and to a
lesser extent in liquid and block form.
Formula:
Soap powder 7.2 parts
Saccharin 0.24 parts
Amaranth (solution) 1.0 parts
Oil of cinnamon 0.6 parts
Oil of peppermint 0.6 parts
Oil of clove 1.2 parts
Alcohol 90 parts
Distilled water 120 parts
cont…
Formula: Dentifrices
Soap powder 7.2 parts
Saccharin 0.24 parts
Amaranth (solution) 1.0 parts
Oil of cinnamon 0.6 parts
Oil of pappermint 0.6 parts
Oil of clove 1.2 parts
Alcohol 90 parts
Distilled water 120 parts
Cont…
Characteristics of dentifrices:
It reduces the incidence of tooth decay.
Helps to maintaining the gingivae.
Reduces the intensity of mouth odors.
Good dental health increases the possibility of good general health,
leading secondary result of cleaning teeth.
HERBALS USED IN NAIL CARE
Fungal infections of nails are very common and difficult to cure
Nails are considered one of the body’s hardest and strongest tissue.
The conventional treatment of nail fungal infection is expensive and
long term.
People prefer herbal and natural way to treat so that side effects are
minimized.
Following herbs used curing nail infections.
Lavendula officinalis
Melaleuca latrifolia
Cybopogon citrates
Syzygium aromaticum
Thyme vulgaris
Allium sativum
These herbs have a deep penetration power which aids in the
destruction of nail fungus, since fungus infects the root of nail.
NAIL POLISH
A nail polish or enamel in order to be successful must contain a film
former whose characteristics are ease of brushing application, fast drying
and hardening and whose formulations should enhance adhesion to the
nail without losing its resistance to chipping and abrasion.
Formula:
Celluloidal film 250 parts
Amylacetate 250 parts
Acetone 750 parts
Eosine q.s.
HERBAL EYE SHADOW
• Eye shadows are used to give a background of color to the eye.
• Various shades of eye shadows are available in market eg. blue,
green, brown.
• Eye shadows may be either in solid form or in liquid paste form.
Quality characteristics of eye shadow are:
They should have good skin adhesion and should be easy to
apply.
They should not show oily luster after application.
They should be non-irritant and safe.
Formula:
Parsley 1 parts
Vegetable oil 4 parts
GUIDELINES FOR USING HERBS
Stop taking an herb if any side effect develops such as allergy,
stomach upset, skin rash or headache.
Purchase standardized herbal products.
Herbal products are not recommended for:
• Pregnant or lactating women
• Infants or children under 05 years of age
EVALUTIONS OF THE FINISHED PRODUCT
The finished product should be standardized in terms of:
Shelf life
Color
Toxicity studies
Biological assay
Skin irritation test
Sensitization test
Patch test
STORAGE OF HERBS
Herbs should be stored in cool and dry place.
Moisture can damage the herbs.
Also moisture promotes bacterial and fungal growth.
Dried herbs should be stored in air tight container.
Herbs should not be stored in direct sunlight.
Selected Herbal Active Ingredients
Some Marketed Herbal Products
CONCLUSION
The usage of herbal cosmetics has been
increased to many folds in personal care system
and there is a great demand for the herbal
cosmetics.
The use of bioactive ingredients in cosmetics
influence biological functions of skin and provide
nutrients necessary for the healthy skin or hair.
There is tremendous scope to launch numerous
herbal cosmetics using appropriate bioactive
ingredients with suitable fatty oil, essential oils,
proteins and additives.
Herbal cosmetics.........

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Herbal cosmetics.........

  • 2. COSMETICS According to D & C Act 1940 • Any article intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled or sprayed on or introduced to or applied to any part of human body for cleansing, beautifying, promoting, attractiveness or altering the appearance and includes any article intended for use as component of cosmetics. • Included in this definition are products such as skin moisturizers, perfumes, lipsticks, fingernail polishes, eye and facial makeup preparations, shampoos, permanent waves, hair colors, toothpastes, and deodorants, as well as any material intended for use as a component of a cosmetic product • If the safety of a cosmetic product has not been substantiated, the product's label must read: WARNING: “The safety of this product has not been determined.“
  • 3. Influence of Cosmetics – • Wearing more makeup has been positively correlated with women’s public self-consciousness (Miller & Cox, 1982) •Cosmetics allow women to feel better about themselves (Cash, 1987, 1988) •Self-esteem / believe increases (Wright et al., 1970) •Enhances social interactions (Miller & Cox, 1982)
  • 4. INTRODUCTION Herbal products are safe because they are natural can be harmful if consumed improperly or in excessive amounts •Cosmeceuticals are cosmetic products with biologically active ingredients purporting to have medical or drug‐like benefits. They ingredient with medicinal properties that manifests beneficial topical actions and provides protection against degenerative skin conditions. •Cosmeceuticals improve appearance by delivering nutrients necessary for healthy skin.
  • 5. ADVANTAGES of Herbal Cosmetics They do not provoke allergic reaction & do not have negative side effects. They are easily incorporated with skin and hair. With small quantity they are very effective as compared to synthetic cosmetics. Easily available & found in large variety & quantity.
  • 6. DISADVANTAGES of Herbal Cosmetics Herbal drugs have slower effects as compare to Allopathic dosage form. Also it requires long term therapy. They are difficult to hide taste and odor. Manufacturing process are time consuming and complicated. No pharmacopoeia defines any specific procedure or ingredients to be used in any of herbal cosmetics.
  • 7. TYPES ACCORDING TO SITE OF APPLICATION Skin Hair Dentifrice / Dental Products Nail Eyes
  • 8. HERBAL COSMETICS FOR SKIN The herbal approach of proper skin care is principally based on three essential steps. Cleanse Nourish Moisture Whatever may be the type of skin; these three steps are external care of the skin to protect from the constant effect of environment, stress and skins natural process of cell degradation decay.
  • 9. Contd….. Therefore in order to help the skin look young and radiant. Exfoliation to remove dead skin cells. Epidermal stimulation for new cell growth. Antioxidant properties for cellular rejuvenation and repair. Improve capillary blood flow. Penetrating moisture and nutrients to replenish all layers of skin.
  • 10. HERBAL COSMETICS FOR VARIOUS TYPES OF SKIN FOR DRY SKIN Example of Herbs: Rubia Cardifolia (Manjista), Triphla, Tulsi, Glycerihza glabra in sesame oil. Fruit face mask: Banana or avocado pulp. FOR SENSITIVE SKIN Example of Herbs: curcuma longa, triphala, azadircta indica mustaka, nimba in coconut oil. Fruit face mask: Banana or pineapple pulp.
  • 11. FOR OILY SKIN Example of Herbs: Tulsi, idhora, jatiphata, nimba, terminalia arjuna, Triphla, curcuma longa, mustaka in musterd oil , milk, sour milk, cream and butter milk are used as gentle natural cleanser. Fruit face mask: Strawberry or papaya pulp.
  • 12. TYPES OF HERBAL CREAMS COLD CREAMS: It is an emulsion in which the fat predominates, but the cooling effect produced when it is applied to the skin is due to skin evaporation of the water contained. Formula: Almond oil 550 parts White wax 145 parts Borax 10 parts Water 290 parts Rose water 5 parts
  • 13. Cont…. VANISHING CREAMS: Vanishing creams are also called foundation creams because they disappears when rubbed into skins. Formula: Stearic acid 130 parts Borax crystals 28 parts Sodium carbonate 12 parts Water 740 parts Rose oil 9 parts
  • 14. Cont… CLEANSING CREAMS: A satisfactory cleansing cream is water in oil emulsion that melts at temperature of body and spreads readily over the skin. Formula: Chamomile cleansing creams Chamomile flower 50 parts Distilled water 500 parts Lemon juice 5 parts Sodium benzoate 2 parts
  • 15. TYPES OF HERBAL LOTIONS FACE LOTION: These also called the bleaching lotions actually mask, rather than lighten, the color of skin. Like the whitening creams. Formula: Alum 10 parts Zinc sulfate 1 parts Glycerin 1 parts Tincture of benzoin 1 parts Essence of rose 30 drops
  • 17. TYPES OF HERBAL HAIR CARE PRODUCTS HAIR OIL: The hail oils used for dressings and nourishing the hairs and grace to appearance of hasirs. This preparations is generally used to increase the growth of hair and remains healthy. Hair oil should have following properties: They should give luster to the hair. Retain them soft and flowing. Invigorate their growth. Keep the brain cool. Should not be sticky.
  • 18. HAIR LOTION: Hair lotion has a stimulating effect upon the hair follicles. They are generally perfumed with oil of rosemary and others ascenes as it posses a good stimulating property. HAIR COLORANTS: These are preparations which are used for the coloring of hthe hairs. They enhances the attractiveness of gray hair. They are applied externally on the hair with help of brush.
  • 19. Cont… SHAMPOO: Shampoo is preparation of surfactant in suitable form liquid, solid or powder- which when used under the condition specified will remove surface grease, dirt, and skin debris from the hair shaft and scalp without affecting adversely the hair, scalp or health of the user.
  • 20. QUALLITIES OF AN IDEAL HAIR PRODUCT Protect the hair cuticle. Cleans without stripping natural oils. Replace lost protein, moisture, and nutrients. Condition without weighing down the hair. Even without porosity and prevent moisture loss. Smooth abraded cuticle scales. Prevent intense drying from environment.
  • 22. HERBALS USED IN DENTIFRICE Definition. Dentifrice are the preparations intended for use with a toothbrush for the purpose of cleaning the accessible surfaces of teeth. They have been prepared in paste, powder and to a lesser extent in liquid and block form. Formula: Soap powder 7.2 parts Saccharin 0.24 parts Amaranth (solution) 1.0 parts Oil of cinnamon 0.6 parts Oil of peppermint 0.6 parts Oil of clove 1.2 parts Alcohol 90 parts Distilled water 120 parts
  • 23. cont… Formula: Dentifrices Soap powder 7.2 parts Saccharin 0.24 parts Amaranth (solution) 1.0 parts Oil of cinnamon 0.6 parts Oil of pappermint 0.6 parts Oil of clove 1.2 parts Alcohol 90 parts Distilled water 120 parts
  • 24. Cont… Characteristics of dentifrices: It reduces the incidence of tooth decay. Helps to maintaining the gingivae. Reduces the intensity of mouth odors. Good dental health increases the possibility of good general health, leading secondary result of cleaning teeth.
  • 25. HERBALS USED IN NAIL CARE Fungal infections of nails are very common and difficult to cure Nails are considered one of the body’s hardest and strongest tissue. The conventional treatment of nail fungal infection is expensive and long term. People prefer herbal and natural way to treat so that side effects are minimized.
  • 26. Following herbs used curing nail infections. Lavendula officinalis Melaleuca latrifolia Cybopogon citrates Syzygium aromaticum Thyme vulgaris Allium sativum These herbs have a deep penetration power which aids in the destruction of nail fungus, since fungus infects the root of nail.
  • 27. NAIL POLISH A nail polish or enamel in order to be successful must contain a film former whose characteristics are ease of brushing application, fast drying and hardening and whose formulations should enhance adhesion to the nail without losing its resistance to chipping and abrasion. Formula: Celluloidal film 250 parts Amylacetate 250 parts Acetone 750 parts Eosine q.s.
  • 28. HERBAL EYE SHADOW • Eye shadows are used to give a background of color to the eye. • Various shades of eye shadows are available in market eg. blue, green, brown. • Eye shadows may be either in solid form or in liquid paste form.
  • 29. Quality characteristics of eye shadow are: They should have good skin adhesion and should be easy to apply. They should not show oily luster after application. They should be non-irritant and safe. Formula: Parsley 1 parts Vegetable oil 4 parts
  • 30. GUIDELINES FOR USING HERBS Stop taking an herb if any side effect develops such as allergy, stomach upset, skin rash or headache. Purchase standardized herbal products. Herbal products are not recommended for: • Pregnant or lactating women • Infants or children under 05 years of age
  • 31. EVALUTIONS OF THE FINISHED PRODUCT The finished product should be standardized in terms of: Shelf life Color Toxicity studies Biological assay Skin irritation test Sensitization test Patch test
  • 32. STORAGE OF HERBS Herbs should be stored in cool and dry place. Moisture can damage the herbs. Also moisture promotes bacterial and fungal growth. Dried herbs should be stored in air tight container. Herbs should not be stored in direct sunlight.
  • 33. Selected Herbal Active Ingredients
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  • 39. CONCLUSION The usage of herbal cosmetics has been increased to many folds in personal care system and there is a great demand for the herbal cosmetics. The use of bioactive ingredients in cosmetics influence biological functions of skin and provide nutrients necessary for the healthy skin or hair. There is tremendous scope to launch numerous herbal cosmetics using appropriate bioactive ingredients with suitable fatty oil, essential oils, proteins and additives.